I'm Samantha Goldheart, I mostly go by Sam, and I have the honor of being the lead teardown engineer here at iFixit. Most of the time my writings will teach you valuable things about technology. This time they will be used to gab aimlessly about myself.
EDU
I got my degree from Cal Poly, SLO (the ''real'' Cal Poly) in Graphic Communication, which deals primarily with printing. I concentrated in the design end of things, got a minor in packaging, and was a student manager of the on-campus printshop. I also took way too many art, literature, typography, sociology and history courses. This bit was meant to explain that I really like learning, about everything. And I guess I was going to work in a warning about how much I love run-on sentences. And well-placed fragments. But maybe it has become a stream-of-conscious ramble that we should try to escape from.
What I do
My interests include MOVIES, BOOKS, ARTS, and GRATUITOUS POP CULTURE REFERENCES. I split my time between working, watching things, drawing things, and making things. And as you may have guessed, I'm on tumblr quite a bit.
Currently watching:
- The X Flies
- The Get Down
Currently reading:
- Solaris
- The Complete Sherlock Holmes
- East of Eden
Currently making:
- Tattoo designs
Great job on the repair Sherman! We like these magnifiers, personally!
The safest method would probably be to let the battery run down, to ensure it doesn’t turn back on and short-circuit something. Good luck!
That’s a new one on us! We’d love to see a photo. Any chance it’s a tamper-proof sticker hiding the head? You may also be able to turn it with a set of pliers if you can get a decent grip, just be careful not to bump any board components!
That’s a new one on us! We’d love to see a photo. Any chance it’s a tamper-proof sticker hiding the head? You may also be able to turn it with a set of pliers if you can get a decent grip, just be careful not to bump any board components!
Hi there! Unfortunately as listed on the product page, the Late 2013 13” display is not compatible with the Early 2013, only the Mid 2014.
Hi Claudia! In this case and in the 2015 5K case, the display of the iMac is the “whole front.” The display and glass are all one unit and can be fairly pricey to replace, but the procedure isn’t too difficult. The most challenging part is cleaning the old adhesive off and applying new adhesive, to prevent the display from falling back off. Here’s the display replacement guide for your 2015 5K iMac!
Hi Michael! The lower cable bracket is accessible during this guide and has no specific guide of its own. If you were replacing that component you would need to use this guide. The bracket is not required for a screen replacement or subsequent replacement guide.
Hi Nixon, if you don’t have a microwave, the safest heating method will be to place the iOpener in boiling water for about a minute (if you place the iOpener inside a temperature-safe plastic bag you can keep it dry and make it a bit easier to remove from the hot water. Don’t place a wet iOpener on your electronics, and try to handle the iOpener only by the tabs on the end, especially if using sharp tongs to remove it from the water.
Hi there Andreas! Do not place the iOpener directly in an oven on on a stovetop. If you don’t have a microwave, you can place the iOpener in boiling water for about a minute (if you place the iOpener inside a temperature-safe plastic bag you can keep it dry and make it a bit easier to remove from the hot water. Don’t place a wet iOpener on your electronics, and try to handle the iOpener only by the tabs on the end, especially if using sharp tongs to remove it from the water.
The LEDs are mounted to the board and diffused through the clear plastic light guide you see to the left of the board in the first image in step 10, all the lights on the board shine through the semi-transparent plastic lid.
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