Thomas Daniel

I tried to replaced the battery in my wife's iPhone 6 - I've successfully replaced lots of iPhone batteries in the past -...

Kindle works but i cannot register it because it comes back with and “Unable to communicate at this time…” message. It’s...

I have a 1993 190E (2.3 4 cyl.) Regardless of outside conditions and how I’ve driven the car, when I stop, the idle fails...

It is a standard electronic fuel injection running premium unleaded, as per the manual. Usually, when there’s a problem like this, it is an air leak around the “throttle body,” that is the plate in the intake path that is moved by the throttle i.e. accelerator pedal. This gives the air mass flow sensor the false impression that the throttle is open, that is, someone is pressing on the accelerator, which tells the ECU to increase fuel flow. Except in my case, all of the air paths have been checked and rechecked an hoses have been replaced. Also, since the ECU had been swapped with a known good one, that rules out the ECU sensing a “choke” condition i.e. low engine temperature and thereby increasing RPM. t also doesn’t answer the question of why does it do it intermittently? If there was an air leak, it would be there 24/7/365, not just once in a while.

I used a bit of Acetone on a Q-tip to clean off the glue from the metal parts, making sure that it doesn’t touch anything plastic. Instead of the adhesive that is supplied, I installed a strip of one-sided electrical tape. I can only think of one reason for the tape in the first place and it is to keep the battery from flopping around. I figured that a strip of one-sided electrical tape would be just as good at taking up any space between the battery and the back of the display and it would have the benefit of not having to be removed next time ‘round and it would make it easier to remove the battery as well. The battery doesn’t flop around and everything works just as before. I’ve done about four of these now on iPhone 6’s and 8’s

“Nifty adhesive strips?” Really? I’ve done about two dozen iPhone battery replacements and have never been able to remove one intact or as advertised. My theory is that it depends on the age of the strips. I think there’s a chemical change to the glue, the plastic or both and the strip breaks after 25% to 50% is removed. Then you have to pry the battery out any way that you can. I think the instructional videos are made with relatively new devices when the glue hasn’t quite set and the plastic that the strips are made of are ‘fresh.’ Age and heat cycling (battery charging) changes the equation. “Nifty” is not the word I’d choose to describe them. Just my opinion.

Actually, about five minutes after I posted, I found the link. Thanks!

Any suggestions for cleaning/clearing the old adhesive from the phone and the best way to install the new adhesive without getting it tangled up on itself or any other phone parts??? Thx!

This was a bit misleading. The title of the article is “Disassembling HP Compaq dx2000MT Hard Drive.” Therefore, I expected to see someone actually disassembling a hard drive, which would have been really cool. Instead, the article shows only the removal of a hard drive from a desktop computer’s case. Perhaps the title should say “Removing HP Compaq dx2000MT Hard Drive” or at best “Disassembling HP Compaq dx2000MT Case.”