Yeah, the battery’s a special-made CR2032 with two leads spot-welded onto the contact surfaces. You see it if you carefully remove the heat-shrink. Don’t EVER try to spot-weld or solder onto a lithium battery yourself. Just type “cr2032 cmos” or “cr2032 with leads” into your favorite parts store’s search bar. It should cost between three and ten us dollars. Keep the original, as you may need to salvage the original wired connector—these are made for a wide variety of (mostly-dell-laptop) applications, so the new battery will likely have a slightly different connector. If that’s the case, clip the original wires as near to where they connect to the battery as possible. Then, splice the original battery’s connector onto the new battery’s leads while maintaining polarity and remembering to insulate any bare wire that remains. Just tightly loop any excess wire after plugging the replacement in. Use a little strip of masking tape if you’re concerned about chassis pinching.
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