Musti

First off, I don’t have any waranty through Huawei! Hi dear iFixit community, I have a problem with my P30 Pro. My WiFi...

Hello everyone, I recently read online that some user who updated to iOS 12 Beta finally got his Light Sensor working...

Hi dear ifixit users! I have an Problem with my Surface. It's not turning on anymore after someone changed the screen on...

Hey guys, I recently broke one of the WiFi Coax Connectors on the PCB (there are two of them next to each other). I then...

Hi, @danj Yes, I already know that the new MacBooks have a new SSD Interface hence why traditional SSD's won't work. I...

Hello everyone, After trying to fix the MacBook (A1708 EMC 2978) of my Aunt (which had water damage) I declared it to an...

Hi all, after continues unplugging and plugging in (after various tests of the water daamged Macbook of my aunt) one of...

Hello everyone, as the tital says, I am searching for the pinout of the new SSD's in the new non touchbar Macbooks. As far...

Quick question:: Is 250°C and Mid Air flow ok when reflowing chips? I choose 250°C because it is lead free solder as far...

Hello everyone, in my previous thread I talked about the water damaged MacBook Pro 13" of my aunt. Since I want to repair...

Have you meassured the voltage that comes to the Backlight Flex Cable? The Backlight Flex Cable is soldered to the main LCD Flex.

Not sure if this helps you, but Apple rolled out an ``Bug Fix´´-Update to fix the Touch Issue with the iOS 11.3.1 Update. Still the problem with the Ambient Light Sensor persists since it's magically married to the screen and the phone it was equiped with. Once you change the Screen it decides to stop working. If you replace the screen while the phone is not turned off it might work but till you restart the device. Also once you start/restart the device with an aftermarket screen the key inside the Ambient Light Sensor (short ALS) gets void and needs to be re-programmed through an Apple Tool/Machine which they don't do since they only re-programm their own screens only. So your best bet is either to wait for Apple to roll out another update to fix this issue, or life with the fact that you now can't use the ALS anymore. You could also start suing Apple since this is against the Right to Repair law and has nothing to do with security or what so ever like they claimed with the Touch ID back in the days and...

PROBLEM SOLVED!: I solved the problem by buying another SSD (used) of eBay and this time it worked. Seems like the other SSD is shorted or something as it gets really really hot. So Replacing the SSD is possible! Not tied to the MacBook like say the Touch ID Units of any Apple product.

Solution 1: It's not possible to replace these USB-C Ports because both USB-C Ports are only one part and are soldered on the Logic Board with many BGA Balls. You either need an donor board where you or the Soldering specialist (hopefully) can desolder it without damaging any other components in that area and under the interference shield of the USB-C Ports with an rework station (please keep in mind that you will have to re-ball the new Connectors BGA Pads after desoldering), or just buy a new Logic Board and sell the current one over eBay. Solution 2: What you can also try (try it on your own luck, I am not liable for any damages done by this procedure) is to disassemble the MacBook so you can take the Logic Board out and see if you can gently bend back the bent USB-C Port! Use this Teardownto see how it's done. Hope this helped you out :)

UPDATE: To the Mods: Please do not add this to the first post of this thread as this should be a seperate post and it should have it's own comments: So my multimeter came today and I meassured these tree Inductors (bellow marked in red) and they are shorted to ground (both diode mode and capacitance mode verrified this). Is this normal? As the other inductors for example show a reading and do not beep for example in diode mode. They are located here on the logicboard next to the heatpipes: I hope this doesn't mean an dead cpu :( This was a quick measurement but I also meassured some other inductors and they all had a reading. I haven't meassured the backside yet too as I'm short in time but I will update it here.

So since there are no replies what so ever I think the mods can close this thread. Or even better delete it. I might buy an chip of ebay where the seller already writes the needed data onto it. Eventho it is really pricey just for a serial number change that fits the Casing of the device. Welp.

Anyone here who knows the pinout of the new SSD?

I can help you getting your data of the device if you send me the ssd as I can put it in my macbook and send you all the important stuff you want :-) Sounds better then spending a lot on a new macbook just to void it's waranty because of swapping it's ssd out with the one of your liquid damaged macbook right?:-) Cheers