Hi Les, Photoshop and Illustrator do take advantage of disks installed in your system for extra 'scratch' space. But you do have to enable it for each available disk. In Photoshop you can specify which disks are used first before the Application uses other disks. Once you've enabled the disks in Preferences->Performance, Photoshop will then automatically use the space on any active disks. Disks are slow compared with RAM though, and these programs only use the disks, when they have exhausted their assignment of RAM. A better upgrade for this situation is more RAM. Having said that, most people will benefit from FASTER disks (solid state etc) than more RAM. RAM is not always the upgrade that will give the biggest bang for buck, but in this situation it will. Cheers, Charlie.
Overheating. As Machead said, a thermal sensor is loose or damaged, or the thermal paste seal between the heat sink and various chips (most likely the processor) has been broken. A jolt will break the seal between the heatsink and the component it is drawing the heat away from and so will no longer function efficiently, allowing the component to overheat and shutdown to avoid any permanent damage. The existing thermal paste will need to be removed and reapplied.
Hi ihorkor, I found this one on eBay, just now, searching for NVIDIA GeForce GT130 for the 2009 iMac 24" (the subject of this particular page on ifixit: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/24-iMac-Early-2009-NVIDIA-GeForce-GT130-Video-Card-/170579003844?pt=PCC_Video_TV_Cards&hash... I think the following card better suits your 2008 24" though: http://cgi.ebay.com.au/iMac-24-inch-Early-2008-ATI-Radeon-HD-2600-Pro-USA-/370480748699?pt=PCC_Video_TV_Cards&hash... Cheers, Charlie @t ewhizz dot net
The answer is a little more complicated than the earlier answers here might lead you to believe. It depends on which model of machine you have. If you have the 2.66GHz machine 24", then I think the graphics chipset is part of the logic board. It also shares its video memory with main RAM. If you have the 2.93GHz or 3.06GHz 24" machine than your machine had the option of three different video cards from the factory. 24-inch model with 2.93GHz processor, one of the following: (1) NVIDIA GeForce GT 120 graphics processor with 256MB of GDDR3 memory (2) NVIDIA GeForce GT 130 graphics processor with 512MB of GDDR3 memory (3) ATI Radeon HD 4850 graphics processor with 512MB of GDDR3 memory 24-inch model with 3.06GHz processor, one of the following: (1) NVIDIA GeForce GT 130 graphics processor with 512MB of GDDR3 memory (2) ATI Radeon HD 4850 graphics processor with 512MB of GDDR3 memory These are all separate cards, MXM cards, with separate video memory. They are essentially notebook video cards. Finding a replaceme...
My hard drive replacement (a Mach Xtreme Nano PATA ZIF 120GB SSD) actually went in the other way up from the stock Apple Drive. ie The ZIF connector is seen when put back together, rather than under the drive as is the case with the Apple Drive (as seen in Steps 10&11). This also meant the cable came up past the drive on the inside of the bracket then to the mother board. I had tried several times the same way as the Apple drive was, and the cable kept being pulled out of the ZIF connector when putting it back together. Luckily this did not damage my drive.
Rather than through the vent at the back. Ease the bottom of the front bezel away from the screen and then in the gap created between the screen and the front bezel, insert your card here and push up to release the latch. This is especially the method to use, if you have already tried everything else above, as you may have bent the latches, and you'll never get them to relase the conventional way.
You need to squeeze the connector top to unlatch, then pull it parallel to the LED backlight board.
My hard drive replacement (a Mach Xtreme Nano PATA ZIF 120GB SSD) actually went in the other way up from the stock Apple Drive. ie The ZIF connector is seen when put back together, rather than under the drive as is the case with the Apple Drive (as seen in Steps 10&11). This also meant the cable came up past the drive on the inside of the bracket then to the mother board. I had tried several times the same way as the Apple drive was, and the cable kept being pulled out of the ZIF connector when putting it back together. Luckily this did not damage my drive.
Rather than through the vent at the back. Ease the bottom of the front bezel away from the screen and then in the gap created between the screen and the front bezel, insert your card here and push up to release the latch. This is especially the method to use, if you have already tried everything else above, as you may have bent the latches, and you'll never get them to relase the conventional way.