DrGlowire

I am working on a MacBook Pro that has dual GPUS (Intel Iris & AMD Radeon) The user uses 2 external monitors. His computer st...

Check the paper path for paper scraps, clean the paper path rollers with an alcohol pad (first aid alcohol prep will work). Check sensor flags to see if any are broken or stuck in position.

This is odd. If you are printing a black and white document then change the print job settings to print gray scale.

If the liquid spray is only on the keyboard then you can try using a dampened cloth to clean around the keys. Do not use more water than needed to wipe the surface. You can also try using cotton swabs also slightly damp to clean around the keys. If this does not fix the problem then consider replacing the keyboard.

Check the paper settings in the print job, it may be set for a different paper type, paper size or different paper tray. You can also try deleting the print job and trying to print again or try printing a simple test page.

It is probably the high voltage power supply. The print drum gets an initial charge to prepare for the laser scan phase which changes the charge on the drum to print, the next phase is the transfer phase where the image is electromagnetically transferred to the paper and then moved into the fuser to melt and press the image on the paper. The high voltage power supply supplies the charges to the drum, since the paper is fully black that indicates that the initial charge is failing .

There are 2 actions you can do for drive, first one is to go to the manufacturer’s site and down load the drivers and point to the down loaded drivers when updating drivers. The other action is to use device manager and delete the audio device, reboot then open device manager and click on Actions then select scan for Hardware Changes (this works best on Windows 10, this step forces Windows to get the latest driver). If updating the drivers does not help then check BIOS to see if an audio device is enabled.

The problem would be the graphics adapter built into the mother board. You can look in the repair manuals on iFixit to see if a part number for the mother board is listed and how to change it. You may be able to find a replacement mother board on the internet, search by part number and make sure you are getting is what you order. You should also do a cost analysis to decide if replacing the mother board is cheaper than buying another laptop, if the cost of repair is more than 50% of the cost to replace then go for replacement. The hard drive should still be intact, it can be mounted in an external drive case and connected via USB to copy the data.

If the power indicator on the power connector turns off when you turn on your laptop then the problem is the motherboard. You should check the Dell website to see if your laptop is in warranty. The hard drive should still be good.

A couple of ways, one is to scrape the varnish off the trace until you see bare copper and try solder to that. The other is to follow the trace to find where it connect to another component that has a pad large enough to solder the battery connector. You will want to make sure that the battery is not moving around enough to pull on the soldered connection. Use a meter to check continuity to verify that you are on the correct trace.

The pictures show a Zero Insertion Force connector. The part you call the flap is used to put tension on the cable connectors. The trick is to align the cable end so that it fits squarely in the connector, if the cable is a bit off then the pins do not match up. If the flap is broken off completely then you might be able to use thin light card stock to help hold it in place. You can add tape, but look for tape that maintain adhesiveness without leaving a gooey mess or dry up like duct tape. Glues are not a good idea in this area because it could act to insulate one of the pins in the connector.