Steve White

In response to original question: Sounds like a circuit breaker switch. If so, and no problem bypassing it, bad switch.

I know ... old question within an answer. But it might be a new problem for someone else. If you only hear a click and the click is coming from the clutch (not a contactor) and the clutch pulley doesn't turn, my experience has been a bad clutch. If the click comes from a contactor, check the wiring between the contactor and the clutch. Do yourself a favor though. The contactor and clutch solenoid will both "click" without the engine running. Just put something heavy on the seat. Don't troubleshoot the electrical devices on a mower while the engine is running. If everything clicks like it should, remove the weight from the seat. Then sit in the seat and start the engine and engage mower. Then if the blades don't turn you need a clutch. VERY IMPORTANT>>>BEFORE STARTING ENGINE, check for TOOLS UNDER MOWER. After starting engine, MOVE MOWER Before Engaging Blades (in case you missed a tool) I have seen a mower (42" Cub Cadet non-commercial zero turn) throw a softball over 100 yards. I have seen a 36" Wright...

The needle is probably not seating correctly. The most likely cause is a bad float. A carburetor rebuild should fix it. If you’re pretty handy, it’s pretty easy.

The switch / wiring is a good place to start. The PTO clutch is next on the list. I made a troubleshooting video on a Cub Cadet Zero turn. It shows how to check the switch and clutch wiring. The troubleshooting is about the same on any machine. It goes on to show clutch replacement, which might help you a little if you determine that is the problem. Back to the wiring though … Did you do a visual inspection to see if something damaged the wiring? That can happen. Did the plug on the switch vibrate loose? Is the chassis ground wire connection tight? Are both battery wires and starter wire tight? Switches usually last a long time, but they do fail sometimes. The intermittent behavior usually indicates a loose connection (which is the exact result when the contactors inside a switch start to deteriorate) A bad switch is the equivalent of a loose wire. However the vast majority of the time, when a clutch coil burns out, it’s out for good How old/how many hours on your machine? Here is my video If you have any...

There is a filter on the drain line. If the filter is clogged, the water does not drain properly and the result is a terribly unbalanced tub. The machine will literally walk across the room. Look down low for the filter. Maybe behind the front lower panel. Or get owner’s manual to locate it.

It looks like a spring-driven, mechanical timer. If that’s the case, you’ll probably just need to get a new timer. If you’re pretty handy, it is not difficult to replace. An appliance parts store can get you a timer, but Ebay might have one, and probably much less expensive. Just be sure it is exactly the same, made for your exact dryer model if you go that route. I have to say this. A non-functioning timer could lead to overheating your clothes, therefore be a fire hazard. If you are not sure how to replace the timer, the safer option would be to call a professional appliance repair technician. Get exact cost in advance and compare that to the value of your dryer with its age considered. Then decide if it is worth the money or if you need to replace the dryer . As an example of parts cost. I repaired my Maytag range with a part from Ebay that cost me $8. The appliance parts store wanted close to $80 for the same part. I wish you luck. Always disconnect electricity before removing covers of appliances....

If you had water in carburetor, some might have made it into the combustion chamber. Be sure that is vacuumed out because too much water will damage your motor when the piston comes up to compress it. (Water cannot be compressed) Are you getting power to the spark plug? Pull the wire off the spark plug. Stick a screwdriver in the end that was connected to the spark plug. Hold it close to a metal part of the motor. Turn over the starter. You should see a spark arc from the screwdriver to the motor. If you can't be sure and you are brave, you can touch the screwdriver while turning over the motor and see if it shocks you. (It's not that bad) If it doesn't spark (or shock you) Check for a magneto or generator. If it has a magneto for providing electricity to the spark plug, you can follow the spark plug wire to a coil mounted on the side of the motor. The coil gets voltage via induction caused by friction when a magnet built onto the flywheel passes by it. check the flywheel for rust on the magnet. Rust can...

If you are in the USA: When you connected it to module, there should have been a black, white and usually a blue wire on themodule and on the fan itself. Are all 3 wires connected tightly? Also on the module, there is a black and white for the A/C voltage. I will assume they are connected since the light works. Does the light come on with the remote? If yes, then a reset is not necassary. Is the fan pullchain on? Pull it one time and see if it makes a difference. Next, check the direction switch. It could be stuck in the middle. . These are the most common problems. 1) Loose black wire from module to fan. 2) Fan pullchain has not been pulled on. 3) Direction switch . Let me know how it goes.

The magnet can collect very small metal debris. You might get a magnifying glass and check the plug and port for metal stuck to it. If you don't find anything and the problem persists, don't risk your MacBook. It's better to get a new one or take what you have to Apple and let them check it out. What did you clean it with? 91% isopropyl alcohol should be acceptable.

I need a few details. what do you use your TV set for? Antenna, Cable, Satellite, Computer monitor, DVD, etc.? If you have multiple input sources, are the symptoms the same for every source? What connections on your tv are connected? (RF, A/V, HDMI, Component Audio, S Video, etc.? Are you using the internal speakers (built into the tv) or exterior amplifier? If you use any input source other than the Antenna, are your audio wires connected correctly and have you tried alternate wires? Have you tried using the other inputs? I don't intend this to be rude, but are you confident in your ability to know what all the connections on the back are for? Sometimes there are several inputs and it might be a little confusing. The loud static, or white noise is usually not something disconnected, but something connected to the wrong place. If your audio circuitry fails inside the TV, it usually just quits working and you get no sound unless the TV has been dropped. I know! For your single question, I've asked 40. I'm...