Steve White

There is a filter on the drain line. If the filter is clogged, the water does not drain properly and the result is a terribly unbalanced tub. The machine will literally walk across the room. Look down low for the filter. Maybe behind the front lower panel. Or get owner’s manual to locate it.

It looks like a spring-driven, mechanical timer. If that’s the case, you’ll probably just need to get a new timer. If you’re pretty handy, it is not difficult to replace. An appliance parts store can get you a timer, but Ebay might have one, and probably much less expensive. Just be sure it is exactly the same, made for your exact dryer model if you go that route. I have to say this. A non-functioning timer could lead to overheating your clothes, therefore be a fire hazard. If you are not sure how to replace the timer, the safer option would be to call a professional appliance repair technician. Get exact cost in advance and compare that to the value of your dryer with its age considered. Then decide if it is worth the money or if you need to replace the dryer . As an example of parts cost. I repaired my Maytag range with a part from Ebay that cost me $8. The appliance parts store wanted close to $80 for the same part. I wish you luck. Always disconnect electricity before removing covers of appliances....

If you had water in carburetor, some might have made it into the combustion chamber. Be sure that is vacuumed out because too much water will damage your motor when the piston comes up to compress it. (Water cannot be compressed) Are you getting power to the spark plug? Pull the wire off the spark plug. Stick a screwdriver in the end that was connected to the spark plug. Hold it close to a metal part of the motor. Turn over the starter. You should see a spark arc from the screwdriver to the motor. If you can't be sure and you are brave, you can touch the screwdriver while turning over the motor and see if it shocks you. (It's not that bad) If it doesn't spark (or shock you) Check for a magneto or generator. If it has a magneto for providing electricity to the spark plug, you can follow the spark plug wire to a coil mounted on the side of the motor. The coil gets voltage via induction caused by friction when a magnet built onto the flywheel passes by it. check the flywheel for rust on the magnet. Rust can...

If you are in the USA: When you connected it to module, there should have been a black, white and usually a blue wire on themodule and on the fan itself. Are all 3 wires connected tightly? Also on the module, there is a black and white for the A/C voltage. I will assume they are connected since the light works. Does the light come on with the remote? If yes, then a reset is not necassary. Is the fan pullchain on? Pull it one time and see if it makes a difference. Next, check the direction switch. It could be stuck in the middle. . These are the most common problems. 1) Loose black wire from module to fan. 2) Fan pullchain has not been pulled on. 3) Direction switch . Let me know how it goes.

The magnet can collect very small metal debris. You might get a magnifying glass and check the plug and port for metal stuck to it. If you don't find anything and the problem persists, don't risk your MacBook. It's better to get a new one or take what you have to Apple and let them check it out. What did you clean it with? 91% isopropyl alcohol should be acceptable.

I need a few details. what do you use your TV set for? Antenna, Cable, Satellite, Computer monitor, DVD, etc.? If you have multiple input sources, are the symptoms the same for every source? What connections on your tv are connected? (RF, A/V, HDMI, Component Audio, S Video, etc.? Are you using the internal speakers (built into the tv) or exterior amplifier? If you use any input source other than the Antenna, are your audio wires connected correctly and have you tried alternate wires? Have you tried using the other inputs? I don't intend this to be rude, but are you confident in your ability to know what all the connections on the back are for? Sometimes there are several inputs and it might be a little confusing. The loud static, or white noise is usually not something disconnected, but something connected to the wrong place. If your audio circuitry fails inside the TV, it usually just quits working and you get no sound unless the TV has been dropped. I know! For your single question, I've asked 40. I'm...

Your best option, if you want to keep those sconces, is to leave those LEDs where they are. Just cut through the copper layer on the board coming from the output side of the driver circuit. Test voltage of output (probably 12 vdc). Get some new LED light strips rated for the same voltage. Pay attention to how many LEDs per foot and the space between places they can be cut. Be sure the new strips are 5,000 kelvin (Color temperature 5,000K). Scrape through the white layer of board to access the copper layers. there will be a positive thin copper layer and another one that is negative. You can usually see their profile looking across the board. Pay attention to polarity. LEDs don't work if connected backward. Solder on SMALL wires (maybe about 22AWG) to the copper and solder the other ends to your strips. Don't overheat the copper or it will just burn. Use flux core solder. I would use leaded, as opposed to silver because silver has a higher melting point. Then, with your strips cut to length, stick them to...

If all hardware connected to the instrument is good, and the output is working as you said, a signal tracer can help find the point the signal is lost. If there is a burned smell, that is a good starting point for a signal tracer. Be sure to stay away from power supply. A plastic probe can be used to poke around on the printed circuit board. With amp on, instrument connected and near speaker, probing around on the board with a plastic probe can help find a cold solder joint or a crack in the board. As probe closes a broken connection, you will hear feedback. Cold joints and cracked print is hard to see and you might need to apply medium pressure with your [plastic only] probe to close the connection. If you find the point of signal loss, a magnifying glass might help to check for a cracked board. Large items soldered to a board are a likely place to find a crack or broken solder joint. You can also shine a light at one side of the board and look from the other side to spot cracks .

Sometimes those bowls can be put on in the wrong position, in which case the safety switch will prevent it from operating. Check manual and compare the position of handle with your unit. If it doesn't match, that is the problem. Some extra force might be required to remove bowl that is put on in the wrong position.

Have you ever opened a tablet (removed keyboard and bottom cover)? The screen is attached with a ribbon cable. It could be just loose in the socket where it attaches to motherboard. This is for screen replacement, but it should help you. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V-bFHycvN7k&t=93s There is another video for reassembly https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2N4Lbro...