This sort of thing just happened to me on an iPad 4 digitizer swap. I know the digitizer worked beautifully—right up until the final reassembly. I tested it numerous times by dragging an icon all over the screen. And it was removed from a well-working iPad (that was on someone else’s account whom I can’t reach, so its usefulness was limited.) The digitizer worked well before removal, after motherboard swap…everything except the final step of sealing it up. I took it back apart and re-seated the cable, but no good. So I’m very interested to any answers to Michael’s question, or the original. The most likely thing I can come up with is a very slightly damaged cable. I’ll test it with the broken glass digitizer next, if I can do so safely. It’s taped together and essentially intact. For that matter, I can also test it in the other iPad, to see whether I’ve caused a digitizer or motherboard problem…
Dell Inspirons have terrible placement of their cooling fans, IMO. (I have one too, which I inherited when its fan overheated and broke and was too expensive to repair...I repaired and upgraded, then inherited it...) The fan is at the bottom, blowing air down (?!?). So if it's sitting on top of your lap (i.e. like a laptop...) often the fan is almost completely blocked by its contact with your lap. It's a bad design. I'm quite surprised at how long it has remained that way. The only real solution that I know of is to prevent a snug fit between your lap, or any surface, especially soft one) and the underside of the computer. Prop it up on something so there is airflow to the fan vents onthe bottom. Otherwise, as you've observed, it gets extremely hot. The next step is for the fan's motor to burn out. This is one of the most common failures for the Inspiron; it requires replacement of the fan. It's a cheap part, but repair involves taking almost everything out of the case to get at the fan. (An aside: this repa...
The chosen answer is not quite correct for the 8.0" 350. In step 8 of the motherboard replacement guide for the 8.0" Galaxy Tab A 350, there is a protective cover plate for the USB port that is removed via two 3 mm screws. There is no flex cable. (It does appear that other Galaxy Tab models do have flex cables, probably hence the confusion. The YouTube video cited is for a different model: also a Galaxy Tab A, but the 9.7" T555 rather than the 8.0" T350, I believe.) HOWEVER: once the protective cover is removed, what is revealed is the back of a standard USB port, with its four soldered anchor points. Once the motherboard is completely removed (see my comments on this procedure--some connectors need to be disconnected first that are not mentioned in the guide), and flipped over, the USB port is seen to have seven pins as well as the four anchors, which must be microsoldered to their pads. Only the middle three of these are really small; the other four are (relatively, for microsoldering) fairly large. But thi...
FWIW, the second picture does show the connector’s latch in the “open” position. If what you see at the edge of the connector farthest from where the cable inserts is black, (first picture), the latch is still closed. If instead you can begin to see the metal pins (second picture), it is open. When open it is not even straight up—it is at perhaps 75 degrees from the closed position. Don’t open it too far or with too much force, or the latch will break off.
It IS possible to replace these connectors through a combination of hot air, microsoldering, experience, and talent (full disclosure:I sell replacements on eBay) but quite frankly, it’s a…it’s very difficult. Hiring a technician experienced enough to do it confidently and well will (should) cost you almost as much as the device is worth.
So try the methods (like tape) that thicken the cable slightly at the point of insertion, so its contacts will make strong downward contact with the connector’s. Then tape the cable down well to keep it from pulling out.
These solutions rely on recognizing the latch and breaking only it, so the above comments noting the latch’s location are essential.
What I’ve read, and seems to work, is gentle circular pressure with a very clean, dry microfiber cloth. Lacking that, use a TINY drop of water ON THE CLOTH, not on the LCD. Small amounts of alcohol can be used, in my experience, but only if the above don’t work, and with better results if used in small amounts and applied to the cloth, not the LCD.
Oops--one final suggestion, also from other iFixit commenters (I can't find the original, or I’d reference it. It's in the Q&A section, answering a question about jumpy digitizer responses after screen replacement.)
The first time I did this, all seemed well until I tried to use the digitizer, when its response to touch was suddenly very jumpy and erratic in all areas of the screen. The next time I followed Ifixit advice and covered all metallic-looking areas of the back of the new screen with thin Kapton tape, and had no problems. I essentially made a thin frame of Kapton all the way around the non-transparent areas of the screen.
There have been various suggestions about why this might work, most speculating on small electrical shorts occurring between these metallic areas and the metal parts of the frame surrounding the LCD. I just know that it's quick and easy and seems to work.
See comments on the last step re: avoiding the area of the flex connector, and using heat, as the previous commenter suggested, throughout the removal process to loosen the adhesive and avoid breaking the glass.
Also, the “metal" frame around the digitizer is very susceptible to being dented. Be very careful of it.
Finally, a piece of advice from other iFixit commenters about cleaning the LCD before adding new glass: careful circular motions with a very clean, dry microfiber cloth are sufficient in most cases. If not, a small amount of water can be added to the cloth. Avoid adding alcohol or water directly to the LCD, as it is easily smudged.
I was not careful enough at this step. At the top left of the screen, near the digitizer's flex cable, I allowed my spudger to go between the glass and the digitizer film, rather than between the film and the LCD. This left a mark quite as bad as if I had broken the glass. To avoid it in future, I will use heat to loosen the adhesive and then keep the spudger near the very outer edge of the screen in this area, to avoid the flex cable's attachment point.
At the bottom right corner, I was simply too vigorous, and broke the glass. The adhesive is very strong. In future I will always loosen it with heat (a hot air gun or an iOpener heating pad) before removal. In fact, I plan to reapply heat to each area I'm working on as I go--just enough so that the glass is quite hot to the touch.
(I have pictures, but don't see how to attach them…moderator?)
NOTE for others who might miss this: this picture is looking down, out the bottom of the iPad. There are four other screws near the lightning port, two for the speakers and two for the port. You see these four easily, looking down at the battery and motherboard. These two are additional to those, and perpendicular to them. Both pairs of lightning port screws, one set perpendicular to the other, must be removed.
The battery connector to the left of the one pictured (i.e. the one with the black, yellow, and red wires) also needs to be removed. It lifts (gently) directly upward off of its base, as shown in the next picture.
That makes a lot of sense. This connector is very often broken.
FWIW, the second picture does show the connector’s latch in the “open” position. If what you see at the edge of the connector farthest from where the cable inserts is black, (first picture), the latch is still closed. If instead you can begin to see the metal pins (second picture), it is open. When open it is not even straight up—it is at perhaps 75 degrees from the closed position. Don’t open it too far or with too much force, or the latch will break off.
It IS possible to replace these connectors through a combination of hot air, microsoldering, experience, and talent (full disclosure:I sell replacements on eBay) but quite frankly, it’s a…it’s very difficult. Hiring a technician experienced enough to do it confidently and well will (should) cost you almost as much as the device is worth.
So try the methods (like tape) that thicken the cable slightly at the point of insertion, so its contacts will make strong downward contact with the connector’s. Then tape the cable down well to keep it from pulling out.
These solutions rely on recognizing the latch and breaking only it, so the above comments noting the latch’s location are essential.
This is a bear of a job, and I wouldn’t have had any hope of completing it without this guide. THANK YOU for all your hard work!!!!
What I’ve read, and seems to work, is gentle circular pressure with a very clean, dry microfiber cloth. Lacking that, use a TINY drop of water ON THE CLOTH, not on the LCD. Small amounts of alcohol can be used, in my experience, but only if the above don’t work, and with better results if used in small amounts and applied to the cloth, not the LCD.
Oops--one final suggestion, also from other iFixit commenters (I can't find the original, or I’d reference it. It's in the Q&A section, answering a question about jumpy digitizer responses after screen replacement.)
The first time I did this, all seemed well until I tried to use the digitizer, when its response to touch was suddenly very jumpy and erratic in all areas of the screen. The next time I followed Ifixit advice and covered all metallic-looking areas of the back of the new screen with thin Kapton tape, and had no problems. I essentially made a thin frame of Kapton all the way around the non-transparent areas of the screen.
There have been various suggestions about why this might work, most speculating on small electrical shorts occurring between these metallic areas and the metal parts of the frame surrounding the LCD. I just know that it's quick and easy and seems to work.
See comments on the last step re: avoiding the area of the flex connector, and using heat, as the previous commenter suggested, throughout the removal process to loosen the adhesive and avoid breaking the glass.
Also, the “metal" frame around the digitizer is very susceptible to being dented. Be very careful of it.
Finally, a piece of advice from other iFixit commenters about cleaning the LCD before adding new glass: careful circular motions with a very clean, dry microfiber cloth are sufficient in most cases. If not, a small amount of water can be added to the cloth. Avoid adding alcohol or water directly to the LCD, as it is easily smudged.
Don't let either of these happen to you:
I was not careful enough at this step. At the top left of the screen, near the digitizer's flex cable, I allowed my spudger to go between the glass and the digitizer film, rather than between the film and the LCD. This left a mark quite as bad as if I had broken the glass. To avoid it in future, I will use heat to loosen the adhesive and then keep the spudger near the very outer edge of the screen in this area, to avoid the flex cable's attachment point.
At the bottom right corner, I was simply too vigorous, and broke the glass. The adhesive is very strong. In future I will always loosen it with heat (a hot air gun or an iOpener heating pad) before removal. In fact, I plan to reapply heat to each area I'm working on as I go--just enough so that the glass is quite hot to the touch.
(I have pictures, but don't see how to attach them…moderator?)
NOTE for others who might miss this: this picture is looking down, out the bottom of the iPad. There are four other screws near the lightning port, two for the speakers and two for the port. You see these four easily, looking down at the battery and motherboard. These two are additional to those, and perpendicular to them. Both pairs of lightning port screws, one set perpendicular to the other, must be removed.
The battery connector to the left of the one pictured (i.e. the one with the black, yellow, and red wires) also needs to be removed. It lifts (gently) directly upward off of its base, as shown in the next picture.
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