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There are 3 not 2 flat-top connectors for the 3rd step/picture. The 3rd connector is actually right underneath the 2nd one.
Any 70% or up Isopropyl alcohol will do the trick in removing the paste.
I use those cotton ear sticks to clean the paste off. You can find this bottle in pretty much any dollar or drug/pharmacy store.
I don't use ArctiClean Thermal Material Remover because is way too expensive and is hard to get it shipped (simply put: too much hassle).
I use a small flat screw driver to move the paste around. I use a thermal paste that is inside a tube (same as a tooth paste one) and with the edge of the screw driver's flat end I take a small amount and place it in the middle of the CPU. Then with the the same flat screw driver I move the paste around as if I would mix it on a pancake...and ensure I don't cross the square...sort of creating a circle and have enough thickness for it to communicate.
I use this screw driver only for thermal paste. Then at the end I clean it with a paper towel. Nobody ever got messy from it: neither I nor my employees
He is talking about spring between the end of the screw. You could break those if you tighten them. So he is right...from the factory or not...it is us the humans that will tighten them not the factory anymore.
So he wanted to say: when you tighten screws with springs be careful not to break the springs due tou pressure between the aluminum heat sink and the screw
this is a NO step. This should be removed and not to confuse people. There is no need in removing this cable. If you do, the fan will be loud and will have side-effects. I am warning everyone to stay away from this step and jump to or replace this step with STEP 20 instead.
Also steps 18 and 19 should not exist either. There should be only STEP 20...remove the entire lock plastic piece that holds together the cable sensor and the sponge with it. That is all you need to and takes you 10 seconds...even using a flat screw driver will do the trick as long as you are not aggressive type and pinch hard on the surface of the hard drive but to the plastic lock piece.
Good luck...you can do it if I did it.
you dont need step 18 and 19. if you remove that sponge then you will need adhesive to put it back after. Just take the whole thing out...no need to remove the thermal sensor cable from the lock piece. Don't complicate things and waste your time. remove the lock piece at once and it will hold both the cable and the sponge that is glued on the top. 5-10 seconds...job done.
Also...refrain from removing the thermal cable at the other end's socket. leave it in there...again...guys...we are just changing a hard drive....don't complicate things because then the sensor will not detect properly and the fan will spin very loud and will not stop.
its up to you...if you have time and want to do the job twice, then you know what to do.
found out that taking the 2 inverter cables (top right corner underneath LCD) and mixing them will not work. I got beeping sound. So...you really need to mark the 2 white sockets with P (pink) and B (for light blue-gray color). Then everything will come out smoothly. Again... inserting the 2 inverter cable sets into the right socket DOES MATTER.
This step together with step 8 can be avoided. Leave this cable alone. You will have plenty of space to lift the LCD and rest it against a wall or any other object. Again...
1) don't waste your time if you know what you are doing
2) don't complicate things and remove unecessary cables.