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Información de reparación para refrigeradores fabricados por Whirlpool.

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wrt511szdm00 - Ice blocking duct from freezer to fridge

The freezer was getting cold - Fridge too warm.

I found in the freezer, behind the plastic cover in the back that houses the fan, that the duct paths that bring cool air to the lower fridge developed ice. I unplugged and thawed.

When i plugged back in it worked fine for about 2-3 days then iced up again. It seems to only be the lower section where it is icing up.

Whats the deal here?

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Hi @dalebert

Sounds like there's an defrost problem.

This could be due to either the refrigerator not going into defrost mode (control board?), a faulty defrost heater, faulty defrost thermostat or perhaps the drain leading from below the evaporator unit in the freezer compartment to the evaporator pan under the compartments near the compressor motor is blocked, preventing the defrost meltwater from draining therefore the ice builds up again when the defrost cycle is finished.

With most refrigerators the defrost cycle occurs once every 8-10 hours and lasts for about 20-25 minutes.

During this time the compressor and evaporator fan are both turned off and the defrost heater is turned on to help speed up the defrost of the ice covering the evaporator unit. When the temp in the freezer near to the defrost thermostat reaches the preset operating temp of the defrost thermostat (~46°F), it operates and turns the heater off to prevent damage to the evaporator unit.

Check if the refrigerator enters the defrost mode and that the heater is turned on.

Here's the service and wiring sheet that will help. Here also is a video that shows how to test if the bi-metal defrost thermostat is OK . If it is faulty it will prevent the heater from operating.

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I took the metal backing off and found the condenser coils in this are all frozen. I’ll look at the videos and see if we can narrow it down

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@dalebert

I assume you mean the evaporator coils inside the freezer compartment as the condenser is underneath near the compressor motor.

The tech sheet I linked shows how to check the defrost mode - see bottom of page 1.

If it enters defrost mode the heater should turn on and start to melt the ice.

If it doesn't start to melt disconnect the power to the refrigerator and use an Ohmmeter to test the heater. If the heater tests OK check the defrost thermostat.

The wiring diagram is on p.2

Here's a link to the parts diagram which may help to show you where things are located

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@jayeff thermostat test ok

How do I test the heater?

I think it is going into defrost but I feel no heat. I’m also not 100% on it going into defrost. #2 says thermostat off. Am I supposed to bypass it?

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@dalebert

You move the temp control to the off position

To test the heater you will need to have a DMM (digital multimeter) and know how to use it.

Disconnect the power to the refrigerator and then unplug the defrost heater from the wiring harness.

Set the DMM to read Ohms (200 Ohms scale but it depends on the DMM) and connect the meter's test probes to the heater wires (not the harness wires) and check what reading the meter shows. If the heater is OK it will measure between 30-42 Ohms give or take a few Ohms. If the meter shows OL or no reading the heater is faulty i.e. open circuit and needs to be replaced.

If you don't have a DMM perhaps you know someone who has and who will help you.

If not call a reputable professional repair service.

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@jayeff

Ok I thought control to turn off would be in the freezer compartment for the thermostat. It’s in the fridge.

I first tested the heater (set to 200 ohms) and got .3

I followed steps again to enter electronic defrost test mode to test heater again and burned my finger so I guess it works…

So now thermostat and heater both test good. Last thing is the control board??

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