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The Samsung RF28HDEDT is a 36-inch French door refrigerator with a 27.8 cu. ft. total capacity, featuring a twin cooling system, LED lighting, external digital display and control, and a filtered ice maker. Its design includes a stainless steel finish, recessed handles, and hidden hinges.

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Ice Build-Up in Back Wall

We have a Samsung french-door, twin cooling refrigerator (RF28HDEDT model) that has ice build up in the back wall of the refrigerator. Fan noise is our first clue to the ice build up, and with a lot of online research I’ve learned how to remove the shelves, pull the back panel, and defrost the ice build up on my own…often in less than an an hour. We live in Wisconsin, and during the dry winter months I seem to get more longevity out of the fix…but when the humidity rises in the summer we are now opening up the back panel every 4-6 weeks to defrost the ice build up with a steamer.

About a year ago we had a Samsung tech out to our home and he replaced the heating element that runs along the sides/bottom…parts and labor ~$200. As you can see from the attached picture, the bottom portion seems just fine, so it’s not the drain jamming up, for which I’ve seen some parts that can be bought to conduct more heat to the drain hole. Something is happening to quickly accumulate ice in the upper portion…assuming it’s a leak of sorts? The noise is starting to brew again today, so this week I will be back into the fridge for a defrost…any recommendations for a more permanent solve? Thoughts on a copper wire wrapped around the heating element and extended to the upper portion to conduct some heat up there to avoid the ice build up? Sorry if this is a naïve question, but is low freon a potential issue here? If so, how to diagnose and/or recharge?

The fridge works fine otherwise…some freezing of the upper ice maker a few times a year…but general cooling is working…so I’m hopeful that there’s a simple MacGyver fix here that will keep me from clearing the contents of the fridge and defrosting every 4-6 weeks in the summer months. Thanks in advance for the help.

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Update (05/24/2021)

As an update, we are experiencing the re-occurrence of fan noise routinely around every 4-5 weeks...I'm getting rather swift with the removal of contents/shelves from the fridge and hair-dryer defrost of the back wall...can usually have all put back together within 40-60 minutes. Build-up seems faster in the summer months where the humidity is higher here in WI...it gets dry in the winters and I'm expecting that we can go months if I can gut through the summer. With inspiration from the video linked below I've purchased an SH502 heater for ~$20 from Amazon and intend to install one of the next times we open up the unit...unless someone advises otherwise in this thread. Condensation is appearing quickly even while I defrost...so maybe a little caulk on the entry point near the top will be in order too.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QtcU0XNi...

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Thank you for the thorough answer and recommendations. I will check the self-diagnostic later today to see if that provides any clues. On whether the compressor is running continually, what’s the best way for me to assess that without pulling the fridge from the surrounding cabinets as I’m assuming it’s best heard from the rear of the fridge? Does the fan (in the location of the ice blockage) run only when the compressor is running? If so, then by virtue of the noise we are hearing I can report that the compressor has been running solid for the last 24 hours :).

Can’t confirm whether the technician measured the pressure of the sealed system…unlikely given how quick his assessment was.

I’m kinda past the idea of the freon…feels like we would have seen other cooling problems. On my original question, any merit in snaking a copper wire into the upper portion to get some warmth up there and keep from freezing up?

Thanks again!

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@ssearles check your door gaskets. When ice build-up is problematic there's normally one of two things (or both) that cause it if the defrost function is working properly: bad door gaskets or poor door management (leaving them open or cracked). If you aren't leaving it open or cracked, check that the rubber gaskets are not degraded. Check for warps or splits around the entire door. Make sure that it seats properly when closed with no gaps. Also consider putting a dab of silicone where the copper lines come into the box, as that could be a source of infiltration.

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@brandon_k

Thanks! Will check both. Per my other note below, I had the unit really dry yesterday with a hair dryer and observed within minutes the formation of condensation and icicles on the low points of the copper tubes...possibly infiltration from the entry point, though the door was open quite a bit for the clean-out process. There is for sure a pattern where the icing is worse in the summer months where the ambient humidity is higher, which might support the theory on the doors not fully sealing.

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Answer: Samsung needs to come good for these repairs. Cannot keep having this done every 6 to 7 days (for us anyway).

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why do we have to remove everything? why not just turn off and leave doors open

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Judging from the picture it would seem like either the defrost is not long enough or the temp sensor is out of spec.

Your heater is fine, no ice near it and the hi limit is attached so we know it is good as well. If it were door gaskets you would have condensation on the walls and shelves before it made it to the evaporator.

Honestly, these fridges are finicky and i have fixed this issue by just replacing the back panel as an assembly (DA97-12608A)

I would do this before replacing assembly as its the least likely and pretty pricey part.

Replace the sensor, it is a cheap attempt (DA32-10104N) before going to the control (DA94-02679D), i am not 100% sure but i want to say they had to increase the defrost times and there is not a way to do that yourself but have to have a new board with the new programing.

Good luck

iFixit Staff Suggestion: View the freezer ice building up wiki for other tips regarding evaporator frost buildup. Some fridges have had anywhere from service bulletins to class action lawsuits about this issue.

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Are you an appliance technician? Just digging around and saw your comment about just replacing the evaporator cover DA97-12608A on a Samsung French door (RF23HCEDBSR/AA version 8). Starting to believe that could be my problem since its not the defrost sensor or defrost heater (both tested ok with ohm meter) and my drains are not dirty and working and have been replaced with the newer Samsung drains. I don't have a bigger heater clip installed in the drain, but I have never had water in the bottom of my refrigerator, just evaporator icing hitting the fan. Does that gasket on the DA97-12608A have to be in almost perfect shape to prevent evaporator freeze ups? Mine was slightly compressed in one area from wires, but the Styrofoam is in solid shape. Thanks in advance for your help!!!

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Ive already replaced my back panel and within 1 1/2 yrs it is doing the same thing. Im thinking samsung dropped the ball on this fridge somewhere, the ice maker quit working as well. These french door bottom freezer samsung units are garbage

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We have the same experience. The tech said there is a crack in the back board. Repair for this is a kit with epoxy and will cost about 400$ to fix. WTF. Ice maker is also an on off problem as well. Samsung should stand behind its products regardless of warranty. They know these are problematic parts and should make new ones and not install the same “broken “ parts

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I hate this fridge. Garbage.

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I've had the same problem with my Samsung fridge for years now. Before it was every 6 months, now it's every 6 weeks. When it first started I tried to get Samsung to help and got nowhere. They should be ashamed of these fridges and their shoddy customer service. I will never buy another Samsung appliance.

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Hi @ssearles ,

Just to eliminate any other problems that may be causing/contributing to what is happening, try running the Self-diagnostic function during normal operation and check for any error codes.

The error code list and meanings are on the next page in the service manual. Do not be confused by the model number of the refrigerator at the top of the pages as the manual is also for your model. - see page 1.

Is the compressor running continually trying to cool the fridge down?

Low refrigerant usually results in cooling problems e.g. freezer/refrigerator too warm not ice build up. Maybe check for any oily residues on the condenser coils and on or under the compressor. There is a special oil mixed in with the refrigerant to lubricate the compressor and if there is a leak then the refrigerant will escape to the air undetected but the oil may leave a trace. Although after all this time if there was a leak the refrigerant should have all been gone by now ;-)

Did the technician measure the low and high side pressures of the sealed system? The pressures will indicate if the amount of refrigerant is correct and also if there are any restrictions in the sealed system. Sometimes a restriction in the system can cause ice build up on the other side of the restriction in the refrigerant flow path.

If parts are required search online for RF28HDEDTSR parts to get results for suppliers that suit you best.

Hopefully a start.

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@jayeff

Diagnostic test showed code 25C...can't find that in the manual, but 25E seems to match with the fridge defrost having issues.

Opened things up today...quite a bit of build-up in just four weeks, cleaned out with hair dryer. Let fridge set for 5 min and could see icicles forming in the top section, so there's water/condensation that builds quickly...but also ran the forced defrost and found within minutes that it cleared all, including the top area prone to ice build up...tells me that the defrost is working when activated, maybe just not enough to keep up with the accumulation of water. Youtube suggestion to splice in another heating element around the top section (part SH-502, availabe on Amazon for $20). Thoughts? Suppose I could also activate the force defrost weekly to buy us some time between defrostings?

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@ssearles

Didn't notice your comment from yesterday but to my knowledge the evaporator fan will run as long as the compressor is running so as to keep distributing the cold around the compartment(s). Be aware though that your model has more than one evap unit (freezer and refrigerator) so therefore more fans so the freezer fan may stop but the fridge fan may keep running or vise versa

Don't know if this may be applicable to your situation or not but your model is listed. So maybe worth looking at.

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@jayeff

The saga continues, though I'm comfortably in a routine of opening the fridge up every five weeks for a defrost. I replaced the temp sensor back in October and it didn't seem to make much of a difference. I've also found a Facebook group 92K+ people strong with issues on this fridge model that can help with lobbying for refunds, but just don't think I have much fight left in me.

A question though...it was suggested that insulating the copper pipes at the top of the pictured section could prevent or at least prolong the ice build up. Ever heard of this? I have on-hand some 3/8 inch foam thermal plumbing insulation that could be cut to fit for the next time I open the beast up. I suppose the thinking is that it prevents moisture at the top, keeping it down near the area where the heater is working. Would be eager to hear your thoughts on this before I proceed. Thanks in advance!

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@ssearles

I'm not sure, maybe @brandon_k knows.

Just wondering since you original post says it happens more when the humidity is higher if you've checked the humidity sensor at all?

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Just ran the diagnostic...error codes are flashing between 25C and 39C...the latter of which is the ice maker and is visibly jammed today and due for a manual defrost...will probably clear once I do that tomorrow. Not sure what 25C is...per the link you provided that would be 13E, which doesn't seem to be an issue for me.

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Seems like, there is no 100% solution on how to fix ice build-up on the Samsung fridge permanently. According to this website, it caused by temperature fluctuations and somehow by water condensation, which becomes ice. So, no permanent fix for my fridge as well

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We have this issue every 6 to 7 days now. We cannot keep going thru all this nonsense when this fridge clearly has had issues with the ice maker and now this. It's never left open and it's mostly just me here and no kids. Looks brand new inside and out! Time for a Canadian class-action suit if they don't come and permanently fix these issues we all seem to get. These are not cheap fridges to purchase.

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I have seen a lot of comments about door gaskets, tilting the fridge so the doors close "better", etc. I don't believe any of these are the problem. I replaced my defrost heater and still had the same problem. I finally replaced the upper temperature sensor, around $25 from Amazon, part "Samsung DA32-10104N Temperature Sensor" and the problem disappeared. I also opened the back and vacuum cleaned all the internals as best I could. Everything was pretty dirty after about 5 years.

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I found the solution that is worked for me and it cost less than $1. Not only was my ice maker freezing up but the back wall would freeze up and the drawer would freeze shut. I'd have to defrost mine with a hair dryer and it would literally take hours every couple of months. I wasted so much food.

I know salt reduces moisture so I just took an old sock, put water softener salt in it, tied the end and I just sit it on top of the drawer lid. On my refrigerator it would have to be setting more on the left side of the drawer lid. My left side door does not have shelves that go as low as on the right side and my refrigerator door will close without issue. It's been about 9 months and I have not had any ice build up.

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Jode, you have described my EXACT issue, can you take a picture of how you did your sock solution please and thanks!

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Could you post a pic of that please @jode06

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For the love of God tell anyone you see not to buy a Samsung. I had a simple fix that worked for 2 years (rock salt) posted about a year ago but when it became extremely hot and humid this year it failed. I see some of you knew about the defrost mode but I didn't. I can make the defrost mode work for a couple of hours, or more, I'm now up to 2 weeks. This is a quick fix but you don't lose any food. On my model I simultaneously hold the freezer and lighting button for approximately 10 seconds until the refrigerator beeps. Release both buttons and then continue to tap the lighting button until you see FD. On my model it's 4 taps. The defrost mode can take anywhere from 20 minutes to 1 hour & the refrigerator decides when it's done. You will hear an annoying beep the whole time it's defrosting to remind us all of how stupid we were for buying the refrigerators. Once the beeping stops the fridge goes back to all that's normal setting all the food is fine and the motor doesn't make noise. On my first attempt it only lasted a couple hours before the motor noise started and I redo the process. I cannot physically see any ice in the holes in the back panel of the fridge any longer but I'm sure there is still ice back there. At first it took a couple of times but I did get a big puddle of water underneath the drawer, (which I anticipated so I removed the drawer) that was the only thing I touched in my refrigerator. Sometimes I'll get a little water and sometimes I can get a over half a tub full (bussing tub) it's working and doing something, I'm not throwing food away. This probably isn't any bigger fix than taking a hair dryer, opening the panel, shutting it off, etc., but it will save food.

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One of my air conditioners has the same issue with ice forming near the coils and requires defrosts. I haven’t figured it out yet but I can offer you some possible ideas.

  1. It could be a defect in the thermostat, causing the compressor to work at full power constantly, leading to frozen coils.
  2. A. Condensation or water collecting somewhere it shouldn’t. If water is near the coils it freezes. This problem then starts to compound, as the frozen coils then start to prevent air flow throughout and the chunks of ice grow larger. It gets worse until the compartment turns into a self-contained chunk of ice that must be defrosted. Checking to see if the fridge is level may help. If it sags in a certain direction that could potentially prevent water buildup from draining.
  3. B. Air flow restricted somewhere or fan malfunction. If the fan is not working properly, the air will not circulate where necessary. Also, proper fan function helps prevent excess humidity in the compartment. These things contribute or can be the cause of problem A.

Some band-aid temporary solutions that can help might be putting spray wax or some other type of hydro-repellant on the coils. Or a moisture absorber like salt around that area. Or putting a small fan or an appliance that tends to generate excess heat near refrigerators vents. Note that these probably won’t fix the problem but it can minimize it.

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I had the same problem. I decided to change the upper temperature sensor based on a recommendation from another website. I was able to get the part for under $10 from McCombs Supply in Lancaster, PA. I saw a YouTube video on how to change the sensor. When I did the work I found that the top end of the sensor was covered with a black tar substance that appeared to have oozed down from above. This substance may have caused the problem since the sensor was not clean so it would not be sensing properly. Perhaps the substance softened up during transport from China? I just changed out the part yesterday so I don’t know if the problem is actually fixed. Just wanted to make the community aware of the black substance that could be interfering with proper upper cabinet temperature sensing.

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Had the same black goo on ours...cleaned it out, even replaced the sensor...hasn't made a difference.

Just got off the phone with Samsung. They are now acknowledging an issue with the ice maker and have an accommodation where they will come to the house and replace, full parts/labor covered. If this doesn't do the trick, she said that two repairs for the same issue allows me to escalate for a refund on the fridge, which is done based on current age against an estimated life of ten years. Probably some hassle with that process, but feels like I'm a step closer to either having the issue fixed or cashing out for ~50% of what I paid for the unit. If the latter, I'm thinking this is still a good garage-worthy unit without any of the water connections.

Thanks for your contribution to the topic!

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@ssearles Can you provide the number to Samsung you used?

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@Drew Wyrick I called the 800-SAMSUNG number. If you are on Facebook, look for "SAMSUNG REFRIGERATOR RECALL U.S.A. NOW"...a group that has more than 90,000 members, offers quite a bit of good advice, and reports nearly $9 million in customer refunds to date. It's a bit of the "take them to city hall" kind of approach that might require filing claims with the BBB, multiple service visits, encouragement to record calls and video when covered repairs are being done, etc. I'm getting my first ice maker replacement on Tuesday, and per the Facebook group I may have to get several before I get any remedy. Not sure I have the stomach for the battle, but going to see if this fix helps - while also chatting up the service person who does the work - and then make a decision later if it hasn't helped. Good luck!

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@ssearles I bought my Samsung french door fridge used to specifically put in the garage with no water lines and mine STILL freezes behind the panel on the back wall! I get water under the bottom tray in the fridge and I have done several of the "fixes" I have found online all to no avail. Just FYI

I would LOVE to get this issue resolved as it has become a major pain for me. I love in Florida so I stay hot and humid. This is all just so frustrating and unbelievable!

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@wbmason1 Thanks for your note Wendie. Disappointing that you still have the issue without the water hookup...maybe one of the rare situations where our dry WI weather could have an advantage over the tropical humidity of FL :).

If you have the energy for a fight, there's an active Facebook group with more than 90K+ members that claims to have helped consumers with more than $9 million in refunds. It's a battle with the BBB and many rounds of service calls potentially. The group (SAMSUNG REFRIGERATOR RECALL USA NOW) is 100% focused on getting refunds on this fridge...so they will block anyone who posts McGyver-like solutions...thus, I'm on this board as well to have a balanced approach. Good luck!

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I’ve a question: having gone through the taking off of the cover and defrosting, and applying the fixes, should the fan turn on automatically when I test power up the unit? How do I know if I’ve a faulty fan?

Thanks

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Hi @captaincanuck ,

What is the model number of the refrigerator?

Presumably after working on it as you have said then the temps would need to be lowered back to the set operating temp, so the fan should be operating

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@captaincanuck I am getting ready to defrost ours for the second time in the last 3 weeks. This will also be just the second time overall. So, I was very touchy about every detail the last time because it was all new to me. I went through shutting off power at the breaker box and using the hair dryer and everything. When I started it back up nothing seemed to happen right away and I immediately worried I had really screwed something up. I found a post somewhere that if you go through the reset option to get rid of error codes or can take up to about 10 min to finish the restart.

I'd say give it 10 min after you start it back up. I had also apparently gotten so used to the loud fan noise I almost missed that it was actually running again, just quietly!

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Had Samsung out to repair. Replaced the entire assembly. Total $600. Tech said he does this regularly and thinks Samsung will do it as a recall eventually. I called and complained but no offer of help from Samsung. This will be my last purchase from them. Please spread the word.

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I am curious when you say they replaced the entire assembly. What part number did they replace? If you want to learn more about this there is a Facebook group with almost 100 thousand members called SAMSUNG REFRIGERATOR RECALL U.S.A. NOW. This is a common problem with these units. I am still trying to zero in on why this happens after it has worked for five years fine. Something had to change in five years. I have been told by this group there is moisture in the walls of the refrigerator and that really can't be fixed, but I have not confirmed this 100 percent. What is happening is that moisture causes the top of the evaporator to freeze up until there is a block of ice hitting the fan. The ice grows until it hits the fan and makes noise. It's not just the noise though. Once the ice block gets large enough it will stop the fan and then the refrigerator stops running until the ice is removed. I have spent a lot of time researching all of this and have talked to a few technicians about it.

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I have the same issue. One week after the 5 year extended warranty that I bought it started acting up. Huge block of ice behind the panel every 3 months.

Funny how it works for 5 years.

I am going to add a secondary heater above the coils. This seems to fix it for most people.

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You guys might want to join the Samsung recall group since people are getting refunds even on older units. If you have tried everything on the Samsung Service Bulletin already then you might want to check out this:

https://youtu.be/hU1S8zQgebM

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I found a great solve from Ben's appliance and junk on u tube.

I bought his kit and will hope to install this weekend. He seems to be addressing all of my issues…water under the cold cut tray, ice build up behind back wall.

https://youtu.be/So1Zf-yIj94

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I installed the additional kit from Ben’s appliance. I also installed a new panel since my was completed soaked in water from all the previous times I’ve worked on it and all the ice build up over the years.

This worked awesome for a few months.

Now I’m back to the same issue. I build up around the fan. Doesn’t make any sense, even after forcing defrost, It doesn’t help

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Maybe your forced defrost will not work because on Samsungs if the defrost cycle goes over a certain time period (like 50 minutes) then it sets an error code and the defrost cycle will not operate at all. Try unplugging it briefly to reset the error codes and then see if a force defrost will work. If you look up to see how to get at your error codes you can see if that is the issue.

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I took off the panel, looks like it does well defrosting the ice right around the heating element, but the rest of the back wall has plenty of ice @cary.mark

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I have fixed this problem by avoiding to replace the freezer drain clip stock part but with a length of copper wire wrapped around the defrost element in the freezer compartment and down the drain line. stopping the defrost water from over running and freezing in the lower compartment. Freezer compartment rear panel removed.

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The only problem I can see with using copper is that when you mix different metals together in a moist environment you can get some severe corrosion that might damage the factory defrost heater over time. For an example you CAN'T hook copper water pipes directly to steel pipes or you will get some severe corrosion. When you look at a properly installed water heater their is a small part they put between the copper pipes and the steel nipples coming out of the water heater that separates the metals from touching. Just sayin.......

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You most likely have either a bad defrost timer or one of the thermostats are bad! None of these was even mentioned but will cause the issue that you are experiencing!

Your refrigerator has a defrost timer. It can be found behind the refrigerator's lower kickplate, in the refrigerator's control panel, or on the back wall. Four metallic terminals extend from the bottom of the defrost timer. Once you have found it, remove the timer.

Here is the video for replacing the thermosts (Both Fridge, and Freezer);

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kQ4YOjGq...

The heater coil you said was replaced.

Here is the video for replacing the heater coil (Just in case)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bPJM0TCa...

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Are you sure about a defrost timer. My understanding is that all defrosting in Samsungs is controlled by a motherboard that is on the back of the refrigerator under a cover and that there is no separate defrost timer.

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Also there is a whole Samsung Technical Service sheet about this problem that Samsung has published that includes several other problems......

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Hi Scott,

are you defrosting the cover aswell? You can takoff the fan by unmounting 4 screews holding it on the cover. In my case there was also a significant amount of ice in the venting channels. While there are isolated it might take a while for the ice to defrost. With the chennels cloged the ice would build up much faster on the heat exchange ribs. Hope this is a help.

Regards,

Luke

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I ad the same problem for the pass eigth months , the problem was the clip on the bothem the carp tube make Shure that is thigt and a good contect to the mathelshit.

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When you claim that they changed the entire assembly, I'm curious.Which component number did they swap out? There is a Facebook group called SAMSUNG REFRIGERATOR RECALL U.S.A. NOW with approximately 100,000 members if you want to learn more about this. This is a typical issue with these devices. After five years of flawless operation, I'm still attempting to pinpoint why this occurs. In five years, something had to change. This group has informed me that there is dampness in the refrigerator's walls and that it really can't be mended.However, I can't say for sure that this is true. Moisture is causing the top of the evaporator to freeze up, which then hits the fan as a block of ice. The ice expands till it generates noise by striking the fan. But it's not just the noise. The fan will stop when the ice block is big enough, and the refrigerator won't run again until the ice is gone. I have done a lot of reading and talked to some technicians about all of this.

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Hi Sofia, it’s suspicious that the fridge worked for 5 years!

Mine had a huge ice build up after 5 years and 2 weeks!!! I had extended warranty up to 5 years so they wouldn’t help me. After much research and defrosting etc I bought a low temp heater from bens appliances and junk. Installed that across the top of the condenser, put a bigger drain bit of metal and changed a sensor. It has not needed to defrost manually since March.

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I'm aware of the large Facebook group and have been following it for a while. They were recently put in FB jail (perhaps at the request of Samsung legal) and the group has re-established as "UNnamed Broken Appliance Group" with some new constraints on what can be included in posts. The FB group is focused on pursuing all legal avenues for a fight...as compared to this group where McGyver approaches are welcome.

Our defrost heater was replaced in 2020 (at my expense before I was aware of the FB group and offered three months of relief. In Jan-2022 Samsung replaced the ice-maker, drain tube, and motherboard at their expense...but that didn't stop the fan noise (and subsequent manual defrosts) that we were seeing on a very regular five to six week basis. In Apr-2022 we had our second ice-maker replacement (again, compliments of Samsung) though this time with a different service provider. No issues in the last three months...a good sign...but I'm on edge that failure is just around the corner.

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Thanks for the FB info. ‘Samsung…. Now’ has disappeared.

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I can understand your frustration and understand why are you getting ice buildup on your evaporator cover panel and after doing checks and replacing parts you are still having problems I’m having the same on the back evaporator cover is frosted over and I hear my evaporator motor making noise also.

My evaporator fan motor is working properly but after defrosting it will take about six hours until I hear that noise coming from the evaporator fan and I have ice buildup on the back panel.

After diagnosis and checking all the sensors to relays the motor and the heater power working properly and yet I’m still having this problem.

And by trying to put insulation to warm up your upper part of your freezer is not really a fix for the problem or to figure out what is the problem after thinking I come to a conclusion I am still getting water condensation buildup I’m back panel and after looking and thinking about this problem I’ve come to realize on my GE French door refrigerator I have an icemaker which requires water to make the ice obviously and after inspecting the icemaker I noticed a small leak coming from the line going into the icemaker going down the back wall which was causing my problem…. I am not a service technician and I don’t know too much about Samsung but for the GE that I have that was the cause of the problem it was very hard to detect especially when the icemaker was in place and only after I had everything removed I noticed..

I hope this helps.

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The 2017 lawsuit alleges claims they cause "over-freezing in the ice compartment" "water leakage" and "fan noise."

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Hi Guys,

This works.

Permanently stop your Samsung French door refrigerator from freezing and icing up - Super Cheap Fix!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5beJp8a...

Dosn't help with law suits etc but it fixed mine.

Kind Regards

Den

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https://youtu.be/l5beJp8amJU

I second that fix cause I tried it! I worked on it 3 months ago & still no ice yet tho the ice maker is froze as we speak so it may be heading for a freeze up again 🥴 but when I just thawed it out, it was froze up again in 2wks. I put flex seal everywhere it def made the fridge smell terrible for a while but it’s still working for now lol mine is 5yrs old. My grandmother had a fridge last 30yrs idk what happened to that quality lol

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I watched a YouTube the guy put weather stripping along the inside of the back wall / the part that comes off, he also put spray foam over the n shape pipes where there was ice he said it fixed his. Mine also does this, but there are Manual defrost buttons you can Google for instructions but on my ice maker I push fridge & freezer hold them down til it beeps & keep pushing freezer til it says RD refrigerator defrost & it will melt the ice itself. But should do this every wk or 2 to prevent bad ice build up & melt it before it gets to much. That’s what I’ve been doing lol

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Hi - PROBLEM SOLVED We have had the same problem with ice build up, was freezing up everyvday so we unscrewed the back lower section and unplugged it to remove completely, checked and tested the thermostat with a multi meter and readings were fine, we then checked the defrost element which showed no readings and replaced it with a new element exactly the same as the one we had taken out which we bought for £15 - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/311631166693?...

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Defrost element? I’m not 100% what that is but my defrost works when I push the buttons it’ll melt the ice (only on the coils & not around the fan) & most of my problem is the ice stopping the fan. But I used flex seal (in the back where I took off the panel to see everything, & put it everywhere I saw a crack crevice or may let air in, or didn’t have a good seal & somehow it’s not froze up for a month! I’m still not 100% it’s fixed but I think it helped lol the YouTube guy used weather stripping to make a better seal but I didn’t have any lol

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I had the same problem. I replaced the short defrost wire with a piece of solid copper ground wire that extends all the way to the bottom of the drain tube. I haven't had any problems since.

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Hello,

The links below are videos I found helpful. 7/19/2022 been a couple of hours and still waiting for my evaporator coil ice to melt; I understand from the videos this might take till tomorrow to accomplish so the panel is not cracked trying to force remove it. I ordered the sensor, thermostat, and new fan from appliancepartspro totaling $260 and after watching the videos none of these could be the problem... I am now looking to see if Samsung has a repair manual or if something more comprehensive exists since this is a chronic problem with Samsung Refrigerators of all models... I have family and friends with Samsung Refrigerators so I may be needing these skills down the road:) It is important to be patient as plastic parts break easily.

I hope you find this helpful.

https://youtu.be/4Kr-el2exdY

https://youtu.be/kQ4YOjGq6MQ

https://youtu.be/X0_4nKyUbKU

https://youtu.be/2_GjxRs3kxo

https://youtu.be/QQgo-CcBKeQ

Update (07/19/23)

https://www.servicemanuals.net/en/SAMSUN...

Just found this link. Their manual for my fridge is a $17 downloadable pdf. Looking to see if Samsung has a free one.

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I simply shut the refrigerator off for a couple of hours. It defrosts but then I need to clean up the water on the shelves. This is a downfall on Samsung’s part and a recall should be made or a class action

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I have ice that forms at bottom and have to break every 2 weeks or so. I'll never buy another Samsung

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I got one of these pieces of $@$*, I found on youtube a solution . Press and hold the freezer and lighting buttons at the same time until you hear a beep, Then press the freezer button 3 times until it reads RD this means refrigerator deforst. It will beep for about 26 minutes. I do this about 5-6 times ( I set a timer to do this) but it works for me. I have been doing this for about 2-3 years now. My wife said when I'm done fooling with this piece of $@$* we'll get another one. I stubborn and it hasn't whooped me yet. Also I have to defrost the ice maker with a hair dryer about every 2-3 weeks. I will never ever buy another samsung product. Good luck.

Mike Wilburn

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Mike, I've been doing the same, including the 'I will never buy another Samsung product'. Thanks.

Paul Plihal

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I adjusted the temperature for refrigerator & freezer up a degree or 2 & a day later it was all defrosted & no more noice. Then kept it at that temp - no more issue.

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What temperature?

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I took possession of a new Whirlpool side-by-side 7/1/23. 30 days later I noticed the temp rising in both the rif & freezer compartments. I called for service, & when he came, he showed me the back wall of the freezer & it was covered with ice. He removed the back wall panel, & underneath was also a wall of ice. He speculated it was a defective thermister, which senses when to start the defrost cycle. The defrost cycle didn't start, so the ice continued to build. Eventually, it locked up a fan, I believe it was. Essentially, the ice buildup eventually disabled the ability of the rif to cool down properly. He checked the diagnostic codes, & it did call out the thermister as being defective, confirming his suspicion. He spent most of the visit chipping out ice! Once the ice was removed, he put the panel back in, & started it back up. It once again worked properly, with the ice removed, altho over the long term, would repeat the failure if the part wasn't replaced. He was gone for ~ 2 weeks, & the rif cooled fine during that time. When he came back, there was some ice buildup on the coils, but not enough to interfere with the function. He used a heat gun to remove what ice had accumulated, replaced the thermister, & I've had no problems. since.

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