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Repair guides and troubleshooting for the Frigidaire-brand room air conditioner and heater with the model number LRA08PZU1.

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No heat or cool?

Hi! Our AC/heat combo unit suddenly won’t heat or cool. We’ve managed to get it to do so a few times when we removed the cover and disconnected/reconnected a piece on the front panel but then that stopped too. Amy ideas where to troubleshoot?

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Hi @tmr1975 ,

What is the model number of the A/C unit?

When there is either no heating or cooling is the compressor running at the time?

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@jayeff Fridgidare LRA08PZU1 combo heat/Ac and Nope the compressor isn’t running either.

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Hi @tmr1975 ,

There are 6 models in the LRA08PZU1 series i.e. LRA08PZU110, -111, -112, -113, -114 &-116, but they all appear to have the same wiring diagram. Although looking at the parts list it appears that models -110 to -113 use the same main board and control (display) board and models -114 & -116 use the same boards but they are different boards to the the boards used by the other models.

Here’s an image of the wiring diagram for the -110 model which may help.

Block Image

(click on image to enlarge for better viewing)

Looking at the diagram (as minimal as it is) it seems as though everything is controlled by the control (display) board controlling the main board. It appears as though relays are used to control the power to the compressor, the fan and the heating element.

Can you hear if any of the relays “click” when trying to start the A/C?

Is the compressor humming at all as if trying to start? If so it may be the start/run capacitor that is the problem

You may have to open up the A/C and visually inspect the main board for any obvious problems and then start testing from there. The wiring diagram at least shows the connectors where the power comes into the board and also where all the peripheral components are connected to.

Here’s a link to a supplier that shows the parts for a -110 model which may help as it shows where everything is.

If it is determined that the problem is on the main board (part #37) and not the control board (part #8) I cannot find a schematic for the main board which would help to isolate it further but its part number is 5304483215

The same main board is used in models -110 to -113 but a different board part # 5304496429 is used in models -114 & -116.

I can’t find a schematic for the control board either - part #5304482936 (model numbers -110 to -113) and part #5304496261 (models -114 & -116)

All the suppliers linked were just to show what the cost of the part may be. There are other suppliers online that may suit you better. Just search online for the part number only to get results.

Hopefully this is of some help.

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If you can't find a schematic of the board, then you may have to.do this next bit. Do it CAREFULLY!! You'll have to remove the unit from the outer casing and set somewhere like a table where you can plug it in and test. When calling for n cooling what is running? Fan motor? Compressor? I believe you said compressor wasn't running. Check and see is it getting power? Is the capacitor good? There should be a value on the side of the capacitor. Check and see if it is within 3% of that number. If not, replace it. Capacitors, relays, and contactors are a much more common failure point than a compressor.

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Sadly your heat pump refrigerant has leaked out or your compressor has failed.

Depending on its age you may need to replace the unit as the older units use ozone damaging fluorocarbons (Freon). If you have a portable unit you might be able to bring it into someone who can find the leak patch it and then refill it. Otherwise you’ll need to hire an HVAC tech to come out to fix your system.

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Thanks Dan! But the issue is both heat and cold are patchy and this problem happened with both at the same time. We were thinking maybe it’s some connector issue, given the way sometimes it works again when we disconnect/reconnect some connector (I don’t know the name) at the front panel. It seems if it were a leak it would have failed differently? And If it were the compressor shouldn’t the heat still work? Thanks for your expertise and explaining- we will buy a replacement but can’t help but think it’s got to be a connector replacement or something. The unit is 7 years old but mostly say in storage unused except for this past summer!

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Heat pumps are AC's running in reverse! Basically, the compressor has two sides the compressed side (liquid) which is hot! And the de-compressed side (gas) which is cold! So if we have a valve which controls the loops direction the refrigerant running inside is delivering either cool or hot air to your room. If you have more than one cassette within the loop and only one is acting up then it could be a switch which controls the valve unit.

Sadly, 9 out of 10 times it's the refrigerant has leaked out, and what you are seeing is the last little bit in the loop working or the compressor has failed.

Best to stop using your system and get someone in ASAP as you can damage the compressor running it in this state.

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@danj ahhh I see! Thank you!

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@tmr1975 check the capacitor first. See if it is getting power. It is WAY too soon and not enough information to even begin saying the compressor failed or your refrigerant leaked out.

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