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Modelo A1419 / EMC 3070 / Mid 2017 / 3.4, 3.5 o 3.8 GHz Core i5 o 4.2 GHz Core i7 Kaby Lake Procesador (ID iMac18.3) / Retina 5K. Consulta las guías anteriores de iMac Intel 27 "Retina 5K Display (finales de 2014 y 2015) ya que el sistema es muy similar.

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Do I need an inline thermal sensor when replacing iMac 2017 Fusion HDD

I’m upgrading my 1 TB Apple Fusion Drive on my mid 2017 iMac with a WD Blue 1 TB 3D NAND SSD.

Do I need the inline thermal sensor too?

All the questions and answers on here relating to the thermal sensor seem to be earlier than 2017 and SSD drives have moved on since then including the inclusion of SMART technology…

Can anyone clear this up for me o CW and for all? THANK YOU?

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It sounds like you are replacing the HDD part of the Fusion Drive set with a SSD. No, you don’t need the inline thermal sensor in your system.

FYI: You still have the other part of the Fusion Drive the Blade SSD which is mounted on the other side of your logic board Reemplazo del SSD del iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2638

Frankly unless your HDD is failing I would replace the Blade SSD first. That way I can hold onto my stuff on the HDD and by setting the Blade SSD as the boot drive holding my Apps I will have a real screamer of a system! I would recommend going with a 480GB or 1TB drive. The bigger drive if you are composing music or editing videos.

Make sure you use the correct tools (rotary cutter) and follow the Reemplazo de pantalla del iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2638 guide to take off the display assembly. It’s very easy to damage it in the process of taking it off! Don’t forget the adhesive strips you might want to get a second set just in case!

Imagen de iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2638 Pantalla


Reemplazo de pantalla del iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2638



20 minutes - 1 hour

Imagen de iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2638 SSD


Reemplazo del SSD del iMac Intel 21.5" EMC 2638



1 - 3 hours

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Thank you for your considered response, Dan. This throws up another question.

I had assumed that I could simply replace the HDD with the SSD. So I have cloned the HDD in order to replace it.

Am I to assume this would not have cloned the operating system, only the data on the HDD? Will the original blade SSD still be in place and running the operating system?

will I be okay just to replace the HDD with the 1TB SSD and it will operate as before or is it more complex than that?

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@uberdirektor - The impish caching SSD Apple uses is not large enough to run your OS and still have enough space your OS and Apps need for virtual RAM, caching & scratch space.

So its like your appendix needing to be excised when you have appendicitis its not worth saving!

So you can still replace your HDD with the SSD as you had planned to do but now you need to go through the process of moving everything from the HDD to your SSD using Migration assistant not cloning! I haven't used cloning apps in well over 10 year now as they are not good enough! Block copying only works when you have two SSD's, HDD's are too iffy! As they can have broken files (fragmented) which you can't recover cleanly. Apples Migration Assistant tool is a special file copier tool so it is able to move your accounts, apps and data over cleanly. While it takes longer as it does a CRC per each file its well worth the cost of time!

While a bit more work switching out the PCIe/NVMe drive to a much larger one than what you get with a Fusion Drive: 32GB SSD caching SSD with a 1TB HDD or a 128GB caching SSD with the a 2TB HDD. It offers much more bang for the buck and you don't need to move everything! (just setup the PCIe SSD with a fresh copy of macOS and move your user accounts and apps over using Migration Assistant.

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You should not, but why use a fusion drive with an ssd (sata) drive in stead of an Nvme on the onboard dedicated slot that performs much better? You just need a cheap adapter in order to do this. by the way, in my experience you do not need any extra fancy gear to replace any thermal sensor.

Update (03/08/2021)

The fusion drive it’s a logical volume very prone to corruption so be careful. Best way to go should be a time machine backup followed by a fresh install of the os to the new disk and recover from TM backup. There are other options but I consider this the easiest to go with.

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I really don't recommend using those cheap adapters and M.2 SSD's in iMac's as its a lot of work to go back in to replace it when it fails! And trust me they fail a lot!!

I have people crying after I tell them all of there stuff is gone to the ether of electron heaven and then when I tell them why they turn beet red in anger! Pennywise and pound foolish! Going with a cheaper solution. Get the proper SSD or one that is designed and supported to work if you care for your stuff not be lost.

I finally did some house cleaning of my parts drawers where I hold dead parts to try to fix them I had over 80 M.2 SSD's and their adapters sitting which I had pulled out. Using a PC running linux I was able to save a few but most where too far gone. MacOS is much too taxing for them.

In fact there is a troubling issue with the new M1 systems where people are undersized their RAM to 8GB thinking apps which really need 16GB if not more (32/64GB) over stress the SSD.

Someone doing general purpose stuff won't likely encounter an issue, it's the above average and pro users which will kill their systems in short order. Again, same issue! Pennywise and pound foolish! Going cheap.

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Hi there....

Thank you for your responses. Very informative.

I didn't have much time so this is what I did. (Indulge me please)

1 - Cloned the HDD directly to the WD Blue 1TB Nand 3dD SSD and successfully verified that the new disc started the machine.

2 - Opened the machine and replaced the HDD with the SSD in a caddy WITHOUT a thermal sensor, dedusted the interior and put it all back together. Rebooted and it worked. No problem.


a) The NVMe drive, tiny though it is, is no longer active and I can't access it. Is this because I removed the HDD? Do I need to reinstall an OS?

b) The tape seal kit that I bought covered up the mic on the 2017 which I did not know about until the mic stopped working and I did some panicked research. I now have to open it up again and replace the seal

c) In my research, I have discovered that it would not be too difficult to replace the NVME and wondered what size to get? 128, 256 or 500? And I note your warnings about the M2 adaptor above, but are there good ones out there? it seems that tADATA XPG Gammix SSD widely recommended. What are your thoughts.

At the same time I could upgrade the processor to an i7. Is it worth it?

Finally, the You tube video I watched showed the guy attaching a thermal sensor... to the exact SSD I put in. If they are not necessary, why are they doing it?


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Your blade SSD is MIA! ;-} You'll need to opening up Disk Utility to see it. You really don't want a Fusion Drive set with two SSD's you'll loose performance!

The guides I believe all have a note about the needed cut in the tapes. Sorry you encountered that.

The choice for a blade SSD is tricky! You want something sizable enough to hold your OS and Apps and enough extra space to hold your VRAM and application caching and scratch space. You don't need to hold your media and other stuff leave that on your 2.5" SATA SSD. If you are working on video then you want enough space to hold your current work and when done move it over to your other drive. The full of them is to leave at least 1/4 to 1/3 of the drive empty!

What can I say - I don't do M.2 SSD's in iMac's! It makes no differences who's as they are fall victim to a hobbled connection path. If I was Apple I would have gone with M.2 just like SATA its a standard! Going with their own solution makes a mess of things. So you're stuck into using a solution that is correctly designed (Apple or OWC). These adapters and the given SSD are just not that good.

This of it this way you grabbed your bothers hiking boots, they are a bit tight but you can walk without any problems, Off you go climbing that mountain! Now how many blisters did you get Vs your properly fixed boots? Just like proper footwear you need to use the correct proprietary drive or one that was designed from the ground up to match what Apple produced.

Upgrading the CPU is limited to what Apple used in this series. While you can do that it's a bit tricky in this series. Its easy to damage the CPU socket and I often find people put too much TIM on or the wrong type. I think you'll find the blade SSD will get you a lot of performance alone.

The series of iMac makes a big difference! Apple used different methods and in the 2015 onward systems using newer SMART spec'ed drives the need for the sensor was not needed. To be clear the age of the drive is important! And the systems firmware needs to be current.

So what YouTube vid you found could have been for the a different series than yours and/or old production.

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@uberdirektor - SnazzyLab Vid is on the old side which can explain why he used the inline sensor as it was around that time we discovered the newer firmware removed the need (again with the newest SMART enabled drive). Apple doesn't post public notifications of all of the changes they make it was only by discovery.

Clearly, MG Tech doesn't read our Blog and he is a generalist fixing more than Mac's. (which is cool too!)

So save your pennies! You shouldn't need it. If you found an old SATA II HDD then you would ;-}

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