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La Kenmore 90 Series es una lavadora fabricada por Kenmore

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Will not advance past wash cycle

Model 110.92593220

Completes wash cycle but stops before rinse cycle with tub full of water.

Will work if I manually advance the timer.

I have replaced -

timer 2x

pump

control board

water level switch

transmission and clutch

I have checked the continuity of the lid switch.

I have almost replaced everything and it’s still doing it!

(@jayeff - I replied to your questions on my earlier post but it was removed as spam - I have addressed your questions in this post)

Contestado! Ver respuesta Yo también tengo este problema

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Unfortunately it’s not the lid switch

I did replace it and also tested the new one.

It spins when the timer is manually advanced.

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Hi @david777 ,

Don't know your washer but have you tried both hot and cold wash cycles and all wash cycle modes to check if the problem occurs?

Can't find a wiring diagram but you may have to prove continuity in the wires from the timer, especially from the timer contact that is used when it goes to start agitating again after filling at the start of the rinse cycle.

I assume that this is what you meant when you said "...stops before rinse cycle with tub full of water.", i.e. water drains at end of wash cycle, tub refills a start of rinse cycle .

Or did you mean stops at end of wash cycle and doesn't drain and advance to refill for rinse cycle?

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The water pressure tube that connects at the bottom side of the tub could be clogged. You can remove it from the pressure switch and blow through it but sometimes best to remove and clean it.

On this washer, the permanent press cycle has a “cool down”. I’ve had dozens of service calls that the complaint was, “it won’t advance”. But it was just in the cool down part of the cycle that can take awhile. The purpose is to cool the clothes before they go into a spin. The washer will drain a little water and fill with cold water and pause. The drain some and fill with cold and pause. You can check the schematic with the cycle to determine if your in the cool down.

Youve already replaced the timer and water level switch, those would have been the first to test. Did you test the timer and water pressure switch with a multimeter? If so, were they bad?

I can’t think of anything else that would cause it to stop other than what I’ve posted. I’d like to hear the outcome.

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David, does it happen on every cycle?

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David, sorry for the questions, but to help I need to know how long have you let it sit in that spot? Also, did you replace the timer or just the timer motor? Did you check the resistance of the timer motor, and the contacts on the water level switch? The place where it’s stopping is where it goes into the drain and spin correct? After you check the water pressure hose and the cool down would you mind letting us know what you found, please? Thanks

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@ladytech

@mayer

When I replaced the water level switch, I checked the pressure tube - no clogs, debris of any kind. In fact, I took it out and looked at the entire length - nothing.

Good suggestion on the permanent press "cool down" feature. I am aware of that feature (owned washer 25 years now), but that's not it. It will stay stuck there forever until the timer is manually advanced. I've waited hours, overnight and actually forgotten clothes for days in there only to discover the washer stuck with a tub full of water and clothes.

I did not test the timer before replacing (2x). I did test the water pressure switch using someone's online suggestion about the connectivity. Turns out I was doing it wrong and both old and new water pressure switches are good.

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@ladytech

@mayer

It happens every single cycle. It stops right after the wash cycle with the tub full of water OR the washer will drain after the wash cycle and it will just keep pouring water in and it never fills - forever or until the timer is manually advanced.

I replaced the timer (part #3946474), not just the timer motor.

Your help is appreciated. I've owned this machine 25 years and I've now spent so much time trying to fix it that it's become personal - if I have to replace every wire and screw, I'm prepared to do that.

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Hi @david777 ,

You didn't happen to notice if there is a wiring diagram located inside the washer by any chance?

Scroll down the link to view possible location in a washer.

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I know you tested it but it the most common cause and cheapest to replace

Lid Switch Assembly

The lid switch assembly prevents the washer from spinning when the lid is open. If the lid switch assembly fails, the washer will not spin. To determine if the lid switch assembly is defective, use a multimeter to test the lid switch for continuity. If the lid switch does not have continuity, replace it.

https://www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/...

Other Causes Video

https://www.repairclinic.com/RepairHelp/...

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@mayer

Please see my comment on lid switch assembly.

Appreciate your input.

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@david777 watch the second link I gave

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@mayer

Second link is to a lid switch assembly part, not a video

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Sorry 'bout that, it's fixed now

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@mayer

I reviewed the Common Solutions in the link -

1. Lid Switch Assembly

I have replaced the lid switch assembly and tested the continuity of the new one. In addition, the tub spins when the timer is manually advanced.

2. Motor Coupling

I examined the motor coupling when replacing the transmission, there were no issues. Also, the tub spins, just requires the timer to be manually moved from the wash cycle to the rinse cycle.

3. Clutch

I replaced the clutch when I replaced the transmission - still stops after wash cycle, before rinse cycle, with a tub full of water.

4. Clutch Band Kit

I replaced the clutch, there are no issues with the band and lining.

5. Bearing

The tub spins smoothly and without any unusual noises when it is spinning.

6. Drive Motor

The motor works fine - the tub will spin when the timer is manually advanced.

7. Basket Drive

The tub spins ok.

8. Transmission

I have replaced the transmission.'

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