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Issues with cooling system (updated after codes read)

Hi guys and gals I am in need of some serious assistance, I am having issues with my 98 accord LX sedan V6 cooling system, Recently had the dealership replace my chipped key ignition and about a week later started having issues with the cooling system, symptoms consist of temp gauge fluctuates between half way point and a little below H line , will go up to 3/4 on meter slowly then drop back down to mid point when it’s been started from cold and running about 20 min, once I start driving it raises to 3/4 and fluctuates between 3/4 and just below H line and the radiator fans don't turn on. ( I believe the V6 runs both fans - condenser and radiator - for cool down?) when I let off the gas and start to cruise on idle let’s say driving at 60 mph idle down to 50 the gauge goes to 3/4 once I accelerate it goes up to just below H line. I have replaced the Thermostat and the Fan switch A sensor located on the thermostat housing, I also replaced the coolant sensor located above top radiator house as well, also I have tested the driver side fan and it runs when hooking ground to terminal A and power to B on the connector. I pretty much made a toggle on /off to it for now but gauge still fluctuates. I cant turn on A/c right now because my dash control lights went out and wont change the air flow or the temp but blower works fine as Its stuck on high heat/ defrost setting. that was my next fix until the cooling system started acting up. when I park and check the car it shows no signs of overheating, no hot metal sounds or boil over from radiator also, so I’m stuck here, its my understanding the water pump should be working if my heater works. so now I’m lost…. any suggestions? also checked fuses and relays they seem to be testing fine. .. please help me keep my baby going. I have kept my car in the best condition everything from drive shafts, suspension, breaks and cylinders , routine oil changes and maintenance done , is kept polished and waxed year round and kept clean. has 370,000 miles but until this issue has and still runs like a top but this issue could change that :( , also oil not discolored and exhaust doesn't have a hint of sweet smell or taste to it.

UPDATE**** ok so I went and had my codes pulled and this is what I got….. P1041 HO2S B1 S2 HEATER CIRCUIT MALFUNCTION WAS ONE CODE.

SECOND CODE IS P1491 EGR VALVE LIFT INSUFFICIENT DETECTION…….

would these cause my issue?

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it's circulating but bad pump wouldn't explain fans not switching on, I think its odd neither fan will turn on and it happened at the same time. would the ECT to the brain mess with that if its sending the wrong temps to it? or would that only mess with fuel economy and running of vehicle? i’m going to re test the ect do a complete system flush, retest fan switch A and pull timing belt cover to test switch B and test relays. Pump isn't jumping out at me due to no water leak on it, no bad noise and my heater works fabulously, when I refilled after replacing thermostat it was cycling oh and im gonna test new thermostat to see if its faulty or not opening at proper temp.. I did get it online.

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For anyone having this issue after reviewing the wiring diagrams for my car I noticed a similarity to all my issues, the fans, EGR valve code , o2 sensor code and my climate control issue are all tied into the same circuit by ground, if you go by the manual it will tell you to check fuses in dash on driver side fuse/relay box and under hood fuse/relay box… but it doesn't tell you that the ECT, HOS2 S2 sensor , EGR and control climate circuit also runs through the fuse panel behind kick panel on passenger side as well… I had a very weak ground that tied that circuit in.

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The first 2 problems that come to mind are either a failing water pump or failing thermostat. Have you noticed any coolant on the ground after the car has been there running? That would be indicative of a failing water pump.

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No sign of water on the ground or around the block after running. Just replaced the thermostat today as well. Is there a way to test the water pump without removing the timing belt?

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If you can see the water pump you might be able to see or feel a wobble in the pully. When the bearings start to fail it will intermittently seize up. You can also check function of the water pump by following these steps.

1- Open hood and remove radiator cap

2- Start the car and apply emergency brake

3- Let the car run for 20 minutes

4- During this time watch the pump for any locking up or rough rotation.

5- At this point the car should be at operating temperature. Look down the hole in the radiator. Your coolant should be circulating at this point. If not then it has to be one of 4 things.

1- Bad water pump

2- Bad thermostat

3- Clogged radiator

4- Improper belt tension not turning pump.

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ok so I ran the car for 20 min, things to note. when I opened cap it still was holding pressure as it made a hissing noise as opening, also after running for 20 min I felt the top and bottom hose , both had pressure but the bottom hose was much cooler to touch than the top hose. so I grabbed my temp gun and the top hose reading was 146 bottom hose reading was 88..so I am thinking 1 I either installed the thermostat with the pin not on the top side or I purchased a bad thermostat. tomorrow I'll switch it out again after I get another new one.

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temps are in Fahrenheit fyi

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Mike Deal estará eternamente agradecido.
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