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Dryer won’t power on

Hi there, I have a GE dryer with model number GFDN240EL1WW. I bought it used and the power on button was missing (common issue with this dryer) and some of the lights on the control panel didn’t light up. The dryer has always worked properly. Turned on, started and dried clothes perfectly. When I pushed power button this time the control panel lit up and immediately shut off. Now nothing lights up when I push the power button.

I am assuming that I need to replace the front control panel. But wondering if it’s possible that another part may be causing my issue. Main control board? Wiring? Any help would be appreciated!!!

Update (01/27/2019)

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Also found this on the main board. Looks like the connector is charred and melted together a little. Not sure if this could be causing my problem? Any ideas which part I should replace?

Update (01/27/2019)

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This is the back of the board at the black connector. Safe to say I need to replace my PCB??? Could this have been causing my issues with only half of the lights illuminating on the display or will I need to replace my control panel as well?

Also, the black connector seems to be melted together, any tips for disconnecting it?

Thanks guys!

Update (01/27/2019)

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Picture referred to in comments…

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Hi Mark, suggest you to share more pictures on it.

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Hi,

Remove the wires from the connector and try to clean up the connector as best you can. You may have to strip back the wires to a clean wire point as they may have burnt away too much, especially if they are a multi-strand wire and not a single wire.

If it is multi stranded you need all the strands to ensure that the "wire" can handle the current

It may be that the connector was only holding the wire in loosely and due to the machine vibrations it started to arc, that's why the burning occurred.

At least you have a picture of how to reconnect them ;-)

Check on the underside of the board to see if the connectors' soldered connections to the pcb are still OK or if they have to be reworked with a soldering iron.

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Hi,

I would try cleaning up the underside of the pcb with Isopropyl Alcohol 90%+ to ascertain the damage.

It may not be as bad as you think.

If the tracks are still OK and not burnt through so that there still is a connection from the "connector through hole" point then whilst the connector may have to be replaced, the board still may work.

If difficult to source the correct connector part (mouser.com) you may be able to remove the connector and pass the wires (remove the ends and clean up the wires, (ensure that the wire insulation is flush with the topside of the pcb -no exposed wire on the topside) through the holes and terminate (solder) them directly onto the board.

If it works after doing a "modified" repair, cover the soldered wire connections on the pcb with a neutral cure silicon sealer to insulate the connection and make it just a bit safer for somebody else down the track who may work on it ;-)

Once arcing occurs you create resistance which affects the current flow and generates heat until it is burnt out and then there is no current flow

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