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Modelo A1297 Unibody: principios de 2009, mediados de 2009, mediados de 2010, principios de 2011 y finales de 2011

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White noise/Buzzing from internal speakers when audio output in use

Hello & thank you for taking the time to read over my post.

I recently fixed up a MBP A1297 (17” Unibody Mid-2010) that a friend spilt liquid on, changing out the top case as the keyboard backlighting & touchpad no longer functioned properly.

Everything went back together without issue & the 1TB SATA drive running a cloned version of High Sierra is seemingly working perfectly but I’m having a couple of issues that I’d like to get ironed out. After countless hours of research along with much trial & error, I’m no closer to figuring this out so I’m turning to the forums hoping an explanation of my specific issues will find it’s way to someone who knows what the beep! is going on & is willing to school me.

Issue 1:

I’m getting this annoying white noise/hard drive operation type sound intermittently. Intermittently with normal, no purposely triggered audio but it always happens when I start listening to something through the internal speakers (even if I put sound on mute. If something playing in the background, speakers are making that sound), usually lasting 30-45 seconds or so after audio is manually stopped.

YouTube Link for actual sound: https://youtu.be/h31hKBlR9qk

If I leave the sound (iTunes, YouTube, etc.) playing, the noise continues. I have not noticed the sound issue when using bluetooth or wired headphones nor does the sound come through internal speakers when utilizing headphones. Disconnect & the sound starts immediately through the internal speakers. There is also a very short occurrence of the sound with the start up/boot tone.

I have read SO many threads & watched so many videos on similar issues other users are experiencing but none that I’ve found thus far are the exact problem I’m having or that the proposed solution doesn’t solve my issue.

I have tried the NVRAM reset then starting it up in Safe Mode & audio output was disabled while in safe mode but I was able to get YouTube to play a video & there were no sounds coming from the internal speakers at all. Not sure if that’s telling me there is a software issue or just a result of limited functionality while in Safe Mode.

When listening to the audio through YouTube, please keep in mind that the fans are operating normally & running quietly. This “white noise” sound, sounds different in person. My phone makes it sound more like a loud fan which I can assure you, it is not.

Issue 2:

It’s not going into sleep mode when I close the lid.

Like the noise issue, I have put in more hours than I care to admit into finding a solution to this issue, trying everything I could find that did not require me to install third party software or delete files that may turn out to be integral to no avail. Everyone is a pro online so I proceed with caution when taking any advise provided on the web.

I’m hoping to have more luck here because I am burnt out on searching for the answer.

Please advise if any additional intel is needed to sort this out.

Any help is greatly appreciated, thank you!

Update (01/17/2019)

Hello Dan,

I removed the bottom cover, running nice & quiet, pulled up a youtube video & as soon as it started, the sound started. While the sound was going strong, I listened on the uncovered underside directly below the left speaker & I could just barely hear the sound coming out of it. As soon as my head was back on the upper side of the case, sound was loud & clear. Insulating components.

As for TG Pro, I have not heard of it but I will check it out & see if I can get any change out of it.

For the second problem, I believe I understand what you’re telling me to do & that I’m executing the task properly but nothing is happening. I was perviously aware that Apple utilizes magnets to trigger sleep mode so I get the concept. The magnet on the screen is just where you said it would be but the magnet is not catching anything on the top side of the case where the screens magnet would make contact. As I typed that I remembered I took pictures of the underside of the upper case before I started work & there is no metal strip on that side. There is however, one on the front right side & another on the left side front of the touchpad. I am also getting magnetic hits on the areas of the screen that would line up with the metal strips previously mentioned. Am I correct in assuming that if the magnet has no metal strip to make contact with that it will not initiate the sleep mode action? If so, is the one that you mentioned critical or can one or both of the others git er done? Either way, lining up the paperclip & magnet didn’t do anything so may not be the main issue causing the failure.

I checked the IR cable & it looked to be completely seated & the retaining flap was engaged but I went ahead & popped it out & reinstalled with no luck. For the !&&* of it, I gently nudged it while the retaining flap was secured but the cable moved freely as if it wasn’t being compressed. I then closed the lid & put different types of pressure on it seeing if it would make the contact & put it to sleep but nothing I did phased it.

All considered, any new thoughts?

I put this in the comment section of your reply but I’m over double the character limit so posting an answer to my own question…….

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I’ll need to think about on what is causing your noise issue. If you leave the bottom cover off does that change things? What happens if you ramp up the fans using TG Pro did that change anything?

Lets work on your second problem:

Using a steel paper clip and a small magnet you should be able to locate the magnet in the lid using the paperclip (right side mid way along the side if I remember correctly). Now carefully fold the lid down so you can identify the placement within the case the sensor is located (don’t go to far). Now using the magnet you should be able to wink the display on & off as you pass it across. If you can’t you’ve identified your problem, Review Step 14 in this guide MacBook Pro 17" Unibody Logic Board Replacement making sure the IR (lid Hall sensor) cable is properly inserted. If the socket or cable is damaged that could also effect the sleep sensor.

Update (01/17/2019)

There are a few magnets here! The ones with the metal plates are to hold the lid down. The one we want to focus on is the one of the side and your image you posted shows the Hall sensor!

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So it looks like you have a bad IR/Hall sensor cable Unibody MacBook Pro 17" Sleep light, IR & Sleep Sensor (10/11) This is the only source I know of that offers the cable alone. Otherwise you need a new upper case. Didn’t you state you replaced it? Maybe you should see about getting it swapped out under their warranty.

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6 comentarios:

Downloaded TG Pro, ramped fans up to 4400RPM, problem persists.

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Looks like the IR cable ends right front of the upper case. Complete tear down to replace if it's a hardware issue. Still hoping it's something software related, fingers crossed.

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Sorry guy there is no software fix here! This is a simple one/off switch event (via the Hall sensor) If the sensor has failed you can't get the needed output to tell the system hardware (logic board) of the event.

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Yes I replaced the case but it was used from eBay. I do have the cable attached to my old upper case that I can try first. Any idea how to remove without damaging it? Heat gun?

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Ethanol alcohol slowly dripped as you lift should do it.

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