Resoldering a loose audio input jack to re-tighten connection

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Tascam MF-P01 Portastudio

Rep: 11

Publicado: 2 de dic. de 2018

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Resoldering a loose audio input jack to re-tighten connection

Hello, I have recently received an audio recorder and am having trouble trying to get it to pickup audio through it’s 1/4” jack input. I found that pushing the cord of the audio source into a particular position made audio be received, so I inspected further and I found the problem being a loose solder connection from the input jack to the board.

I am attempting to re-solder this joint but am also nervous about the ‘green paint’ that seems to come off with the loose solder as seen in the picture (leftmost pin), and how I should approach re-tightening and re-soldering the connection. Also wondering as to whether solder wick vs solder pump should be used for a board of this size.

I am new to soldering so I appreciate any help you can offer, thank you.

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Isaac @geekittogether

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Geek it Together, Inc.

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Publicado: 2 de dic. de 2018

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That green you are seeing looks like the eyelet has peeled up. You will need to replace that eyelet to get a sturdy solder. In fact, you might burn up the peeled part because it will not be able to dissipate heat into the main PCB body. What you are not seeing is the small copper ring around the via is ripped free from the trace, you can only see the solder mask that cracked around the joint, but once you melt the solder you will find a scrap of delicate copper in it. The remaining solder mask around it will likely burn away in the process, requiring you to clean (decontaminate) the the surfaces. In the end, I doubt you will have any metal to bond to.

Eyelet repair:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jg9fDm-u...

If you do not want to get an eyelet repair kit, then you can solder a jumper wire from the component’s pin to another solder joint that shares the trace, then epoxy the leg in place for stability.

Personally, I use a pump/sucker for the bulk of solder removal, then the wick to lightly scrub the contact points and remove more solder. When done, everything is clean and tinned.

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Hello, thank you for posting this, I was originally just going to place a solder over the pin to reconnect it with the board trace but knowing that the broken off part might burn up is something I didn't realise. I will try to solder a jumper wire to the nearest pin on the same trace. I am still unsure about what epoxy would mean for holding a leg in place. But thank you for answering.

3 de dic. de 2018 - de Collin Andrews

An epoxy (glue) would be able to bind the metal to the PCB board. So the leg, which often provides both the electrical connection and mechanical strength, would be firmly affixed in it's hole. If you replace the eyelet with a kit, you don't need to glue anything. If the pin is not 'load bearing', you can skip it and just do the jumper. Usually they are load bearing due to the insertion and removal of the audio cable.

Here is a good epoxy that doesn't expand/contract much with temperatures: https://www.masterbond.com/tds/ep30lte-l...

Oh, and the burn-off of the remains was more to let you know you need to clean and re-tin the leg there so it is clean for the jumper wire. It looks like the pad has completely ripped off, at this point I would just plan for working around that problem as described (jumper the connection, glue the jack so it can't torque the remaining pin(s) as the audio cable is inserted/removed.) If you don't keep the jack from moving, then the other legs will end up like this one in time.

3 de dic. de 2018 - de Isaac

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Hello, thank you for posting this, I was originally just going to place a solder over the pin to reconnect it with the board trace but knowing that the broken off part might burn up is something I didn't realise. I will try to solder a jumper wire to the nearest pin on the same trace. I am still unsure about what epoxy would mean for holding a leg in place. But thank you for answering. — Collin Andrews
An epoxy (glue) would be able to bind the metal to the PCB board. So the leg, which often provides both the electrical connection and mechanical strength, would be firmly affixed in it's hole. If you replace the eyelet with a kit, you don't need to glue anything. If the pin is not 'load bearing', you can skip it and just do the jumper. Usually they are load bearing due to the insertion and removal of the audio cable.

Here is a good epoxy that doesn't expand/contract much with temperatures: https://www.masterbond.com/tds/ep30lte-l...

Oh, and the burn-off of the remains was more to let you know you need to clean and re-tin the leg there so it is clean for the jumper wire. It looks like the pad has completely ripped off, at this point I would just plan for working around that problem as described (jumper the connection, glue the jack so it can't torque the remaining pin(s) as the audio cable is inserted/removed.) If you don't keep the jack from moving, then the other legs will end up like this one in time. — Isaac

Matt @treeman1950 Rep: 35 1 · Answer 1 · 2018-12-02T21:41:10-07:00

Matt @treeman1950

Rep: 35

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Publicado: 2 de dic. de 2018

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Either one is fine I prefer the wick just put it back after you clean it put a little bit of electrical soilder on the tip of soildering gun and put it on don't let it move for a couple seconds and that should do it

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Tascam MF-P01 Portastudio

Resoldering a loose audio input jack to re-tighten connection

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