Dryer won't power on Solved
I have a GE Front load dryer (GFMS150) only 2.5 years old and this is the second time we have a no power issue. The first was within the warranty period when the Service tech replaced both the control brd and power brd. Unfortunately, 15 months later the dryer won`t turn on again? I have verified the breaker and the 2 fuses, the thermostats and door switch which all work. I measure 120V on the power brd inputs.
I am not sure what to try next other than the controller and power brds. Please let me know your suggestions and thoughts...
Update (02/08/2016)
I found the issue with my Dryer to be loose power cable connection in the entry to the dryer. I clean them up and re-secured the power cable and all is work again.
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Having the same issue with the power board not working at all. We had flashing electricity during blizzard. Tried the ribbon trick above, no luck. All other connections look secure. The drum light works, so it's not the power cord. At a loss. Thinking have to replace boards, but thinking too much $$ for that.
- de starmanfour
Unplug unit for at least 20 minutes. Raise temperature in room to above 80° F. Replug unit. Wait at least 20 minutes. Test power. If it powers on, You're experiencing the same issue I am. No one has helped. We have to keep the panel on delay in order to have a dryer. If we forget, we have to reheat the room and follow the same process. It's a HUGE PAIN!
- de IknowGodis2
If ambient temperature seems to affect the operation of the dryer then most likely there is a cracked solder joint on a pin of a board connector, a crimp on a wire mounted terminal, a leg of a chip broke away from the pad or other poorly made connection. The vibrations a dryer generates can destroy electronic boards. This is why the boards are conformal coated (seal out moisture and dampen vibrations). However, the wires and board mounted connectors are not coated. These parts are affected by moisture and vibrations. You may get your dryer running again by disturbing connections to the boards. (next comment, says text too long???
- de Crashedhdd
Remove boards and inspect all connector pins for cracked solder joints and corrosion. Inspect all cables for bad crimps, broken wires, weak connections and corrosion. Use corrosion inhibitors on connectors. Intermittant problems can be some of the most difficult to solve. Most of the time I find that board QA and crimp terminal QA is the root cause (insufficient solder on a joint or contact material on terminal insufficient). It's a shame that it can take years for these problems to show themselves. When they do, you need to be patient and thorough in your inspections to pinpoint the fault. Use google for tips to locate loose electrical connections.
- de Crashedhdd
Your reply makes total sense. I wish I could send pictures or a video of the board. As soon as I'm able, I'll pull the board and inspect. If we find the connection at fault, can it be fixed by a competent person who works on circuit boards or will it mean a new board? I know some panels are not made to fix-that is parts aren't replaced on the board - they just replace the whole board.
- de IknowGodIs