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Fourth generation of iPad, released November 2, 2012, available in 16, 32, or 64 GB models. Model Number A1458

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Right Half Dark After Screen Replacement, Please Help!

Hello everyone, I replaced the screen digitizer on Ipad 4th gen. I turned off the ipad before starting the repair. After completing the repair I turned on the device and the right half of the screen is darker. The iPad was completely off the whole repair. So cleaned the LCD ribbon cable and put it back together. The right half is still dark. I figured maybe I got it too hot when I was removing the original screen digitizer to replace and now the LCD is damaged. So I ordered a LCD. When it came I put it on but I still have a dark right side. Any ideas or help would be greatly appreciated!!! Thanks!

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Did you isolate the battery from the logic board? Unfortunately they don't show this in the iPad 4 guide but here's an example from the iPad Air guide - step 35. Not doing this increases your risk of damaging the backlight circuit on the logic board. The backlight circuit consists of a right side/left side design so if you are missing the right side, you probably have a blown filter (L2210). There could also be more damage to the rest of the circuitry.

This is not a DIY repair and requires micro-soldering. I would look for a reputable repair shop that does micro-soldering repairs.

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Minho, Thanks for your response!! No, I did not disconnect the battery anly because the guide did not instruct me to do so. I hope others will learn this before following this guide and making the same mistake. Anyway, I don't have any reputable or practical repair shops to take this to in my location. However, there is a shop that does micro-soldering and will do the work if I get the parts and let them know what to replace. They do not work on Apple products so they have no experience with them. They generally work on Blackberry and other phones.

Do you know how I can determine if the filter, diode, or the connector the LCD ribbon slides into? It probably is the filter or diode but I did initially have a little difficulty getting LCD ribbon cable unplugged. Any advice or suggestion would be greatly appreciated. I guess I would also need to know where to buy the parts?

Thanks again for all your help!!!

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That's so weird. My first iPad Air 1, didn't disconnect. Not a problem. Custom cut a guitar pick, and did it every time since, cause I heard about that. Same thing with iPad 4. Just did one, no problem, did not know about this. Then again...I eventually did disconnect, but it was still fine. Let's see what we can do to get this guide modified

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@theimedic It's not an automatic thing...You could probably not disconnect the battery dozens (and dozens) of time without problem. But every once in a while it will happen. We have a very large audience here so we do see this with some regularity.

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Ohhhhh. @refectio though I did buy a proper seperation pick, from iFixit. Just cause I wanted one

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@dco The backlight circuit is generally not difficult to troubleshoot. The micro-solderer would have to download the schematic and locate the filters (FL2200/FL2210) and the associated circuitry.

There are several mail-in options (you can check out my profile among others), including @theimedic .

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