Skip to main content

pump dead headed against blockage and quit working

A small Linear air compressor that fills my air bed quit working after a line blockage caused it to dead head for several minutes. Can this pump be repaired or is it a throw away? It seems to be 2 small pistons joined in line with a flat link with 4 embedded rods that are loosely sandwiched between 2 110v magnetic coils.Somehow they vibrate in a linear motion causing air to be pumped out through 2 exhaust ports that are manifolded to a single exhaust port.

Contestar esta pregunta I have this problem too

Is this a good question?

Puntuación 1

Comentarios:

Can I Purchase this ,and if yes, where ?

by

Añadir un comentario

Kits de Reparación de Android

Estás a un kit de tu nueva pantalla o batería.

Comprar Ahora

Kits de Reparación de Android

Estás a un kit de tu nueva pantalla o batería.

Comprar Ahora

3 Respuestas

Most Helpful Answer

I have the same issue. my son decided to turn the bed up to 99 and caused the pump to quit working.

I determined the pump has an open circuit since it gets power to it but isn't operating. further inspection once I opened it up it has 2 electromagnets connected in series. the side that was having an issue was showing 120 VAC across the terminals indicating it was the trouble. I removed the wrapping on the coil and found a thermal fuse. once bypassed the pump is working. so I guess the next step is to either fing a replacement pump or replace the thermal fuse.

Update I found a replacement thermal fuse on walmart.com, but I had to order 20 at a time at $8-9 but it should work. the fuse is an H130 250 volt 2 amp 130 degree Celsius fuse.

Was this answer helpful?

Puntuación 2
Añadir un comentario

Hello, Papa Hajek,

I also have an air bed that uses the Gast C-5B-103 compressor. The bed had recently not been inflating despite running for tens of minutes. I have taken apart the air pump unit and done some rudimentary testing. While inflating, the compressor will turn off periodically (probably to get an accurate pressure) and the air seems to leak back out through the pump unit somewhere. The solenoid valves seem to be operating correctly and do seal off completely, so I'm suspecting the compressor. If the compressor still puts out enough pressure, I think the addition of a check valve between the compressor and solenoid block might, at least temporarily, fix the problem. The seals on the compressor will eventually need to be replaced. I may crack it open tomorrow and take a closer look.

I have temporarily added a quarter turn tubing valve and short length of polyethylene tube where I can manually blow up the mattress while doing this testing. Surprisingly, it does not take very many puffs on the tube to get the mattress to a satisfactory setting. I call this the "redneck" sleep number bed.

JH

Update (01/30/2016)

Ha ha! Fortunately, the air bed itself seems to hold air for at least a week or so with no noticeable loss, so we're still sleeping on it without the air pump attached. My wife puts up with my tinkering, as sometimes it actually does provide her some benefit.

The good news is that I'm pretty sure I was able to fix the compressor by just cleaning out some "stuff" (for lack of a better word) that was stuck in the flapper checks of the compressor. Here's my rundown on the process:

1. Remove the four long screws holding down the black plastic cap

2. Remove the black plastic cap and attached gasket (gasket seal is not critical)

2. Remove the two screws on the side that secure the electromagnets

3. Remove the electromagnets and attached wiring from the main body of the compressor

4. Remove the eight screws (four at either end) that hold the reciprocating compressor mechanism

5. Remove the reciprocating compressor mechanism as one piece, being careful not to stress the diaphragms at either end of the center reciprocating linkage

6. The compression chambers at either end of the mechanism are actually two separate pieces. The center section will pull out and contains the two flapper checks. The other section remains attached to the linkage via the diaphragm

In my case, the "stuff" that I found in the compression chamber was holding the flapper checks open. But if the diaphragm tore, you're probably better off getting a new unit. I guess you could try repairing it with some kind of plastic glue, but given the stress from the rapid reciprocating action, it would probably fail again soon.

John

Was this answer helpful?

Puntuación 1

Comentarios:

funny too!! I ended up buying a used unit on eBay , but the compressor is still lying around. I like fixing things and am hoping for a "how to" explanation .

I smile when I picture you half asleep at 2 a.m. huffing and puffing into a tube at the head of your bed. If you ain't single you will be soon.

by

Añadir un comentario

Trouble shooting the Select Comfort UFCS4-2 air pump , I found the same thing as cahazuka posted.

  1. Isolated the pump as the problem by unplugging the 120v AC inputs off the circuit board and then jumpering these directly to the pump AC inputs. This bypassed the circuit board completely and pump would still not run. The best way to isolate the pump as the problem is to disconnect the pump AC inputs from the pcba and put an ohm meter across the pump AC inputs. In this case it was an open circuit.
  2. Unscrewed the black top unit with the 4 long screws, exposing the innards. There are two coils which moves the pump mechanism with magnets. In my case, one of these coils had an open which can be seen by putting the ohm meter on each coil individually. The bad one is Open.
  3. Unscrewing the electromagnet coil from the housing was the trickiest part. You can easily maul up the Phillips screw head if you try using the wrong sized screw driver. Use the biggest screw driver bit that will fit the screw. Press into the screw head firmly and use a loosen/tighten motion on the screw head until the bond breaks.
  4. Unwrapped the white wrapping from the coil carefully , as you want to reuse this when you reassemble it all. When the wrapping is all removed you are left with the soldered connections points to the coil on top of a piece of cardboard. Under this cardboard is the thermal fuse. I used an exact o blade to carefully cut the cardboard without damaging the coil wires below it. I checked it with the Ohm meter and it was open. I had to buy 10 of the fuses from Amazon for $7. ( ToToT 10Pcs New RH 250V 2A 130 DegC Double Lead Temperature Control Thermal Fuse ) but much better than $250 for a complete replacement unit.
  5. Unsolder the old fuse , solder in the new fuse, reassemble, and should be good to go.
  6. You might want to take pictures of this assembly as you take it apart so you remember how it all goes back together but it really isn’t too complicated.

Block Image

  1. A little commentary , I think it is bad business practice when a company like Select Comfort or Sleep Number deliberately does not provide support for repairing their products. They want you to buy a new unit. I guess it is good for their business but bad for the environment. Let’s keep demanding that companies make their items “repairable” and that they support it.

#

Was this answer helpful?

Puntuación 0
Añadir un comentario

Add your answer

papa Hajek will be eternally grateful.
Ver Estadísticas:

Past 24 Hours: 0

Past 7 Days: 1

Past 30 Days: 3

Global: 309