7.9 inch display iPad Mini, with 16, 32, or 64 GB of storage.

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Battery says charging but remains at 1% after digitizer replacement

Hey everyone,

I replaced two ipad mini digitizers. These were the kind you have to solder. I used a stereoscopic microscope which made things a bit easier.

But it turns out that one of them will not charge afterwards. It shows that it's plugged in with the icon in the top corner and it doesn't say "Not Charging". I'm plugged into wall (not PC) using original lightning cable.

Digitizer was not working and so it was on when I opened it. When I got to the battery push connector, I made a stupid mistake of using my metal tweezers to disconnect and I saw a tiny little arc. This happened to me once before inside an ipad 2 without issue so I didn't think anything of it. Should have learned from my previous mistake.

At this point I am stuck, so I need your insight. Do you think if I replace the battery it will do the trick? I'm short on time, customer is losing patience with me.

Some tips when soldering the digitizer, a little solder on the IC board's pads goes a long way. Also, on either side of the digitizer flex there are little square holes that allow you to line things up. If you tap them with your iron, the plastic will burn up and it becomes very easy to line things up. I kept it lined up with Kapton's tape directly onto the table underneath the field of view of my scope.

Thanks for your help,

Mark

Southern California

Contestado! View the answer Yo también tengo este problema

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That's part resistor is on the board or the battery I can fix replacing batery?

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Here is an update in case someoneelse finds themselves with the same problem. I found a small resistor that had come off next to the battery push connector. Was able to resoler it and battery charged again. Barely visible without microscope.

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i have a different problem, my ipad mini says it is charging, then i left it for 30 mins and then it's still stuck to 1%, i tried to shut it down and plug it again but it really wont charge. can you help me with that?

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Hi Mark,

I got my ipad mini fixed by a local mobile repair shop. I ended up having the damaged digitizer replaced with the very same battery charge issue, It says charging and stays at 4%. I gave it back to them to fix. However, I think they have no clue themselves as they are delaying it.

I came across your nice article and the fix. I am suspecting the same case with my ipad as well. Would appreciate if you can share a picture with me of the resister that needed reordering. Probably I can take this info back to them to start looking into it from this perspective.

My email id is syedazharpasha@hotmail.com

Appreciate your help!!

Regards,

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Hello guys...it seems that i have a similar case with my ipad mini where the resistor got torn out...does anyone by chance know the resistance of that resistor? Maybe i can put a new one in there

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anyone know the value of resistance losses?

mvh

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Its just to the left of the connector if holding the device with home button towards you. Under a scope you will be able to see it missing. If you don't have the resistor, you may want to just put a solder ball to bridgethe connection. DDon't quote me but I think a bridge of solder will work fine and not cause any problems.. That device went back with customer shortly after and unfortunately I never got photos. Good luck! - Mark

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hi guys i removed the resistor on an old blocked board to replicate the fault and you can indeed just solder the pads if the resistor is missing

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anyone know the value of resistance losses?

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I have a similar issue. The ipad mini will not charge. It won't even show the charge icon on the screen. I could the charge lowering so the charge was moving but only downwards lol

Has anyone any idea of the resistor values?

Any help appreciated.

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Thanks to Jessa, it seems that there is a power regulator 1608A1 chip on the U1300 position on the ipad mini motherboard. If the charger does not charge, or does not connect to the computer, then this chip could be at fault. I believe this is also know as the U2 Chip.

There must be a way of testing to see if it is blown though?

Thoughts anyone

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There also seems to be a second usb charging chip FDMC6683 on the Q8104position on motherboard.

http://www.auctiva.com/hostedimages/show...

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I'm sure you've done this, but changing dock connector is also something to rule out.

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I am planning on inserting a cut lightning flex into the ioad mini dock and check continuity between the wires and the soldered pads. This shouid work in theory or would it ?

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I'm not sure it is that simple. There is a lot of info that flows through the dock connector flex.

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i have a different problem, my ipad says it is charging but then i left it for 30 mins and then it is stuck to 1%, i tried to shut it down and plug it again but it isn't really charging what will i do? im really freaking out :|

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If it has been opened, then you are missing the battery filter just like in this thread. If it has never been opened you have charging if failure

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maybe there is something wrong with the charger?

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Yea, this is a known "feature" and pretty sure that U2 if it is genuinely bad will also get hot when you attempt to charge . Ipads like many fruity devices detect the presence of specific resistances on the two data pins, if any one thing is wrong it won't charge.

Did read somewhere that if you've got a board with damaged pads on the digitizer its possible to get one with extended pins pre-cut at the factory to spec so you can micro-solder it in place as normal eg with solder paste and stencil.

The solvent used is quite important as plastic will deform and melt if you try acetone, MEK or anything like that.

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Mark estará eternamente agradecido.
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