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Versión actual por: Nick ,

Texto:

-These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs to be replaced. You also need to pad the unibody where the hard drive rests as this is a known cable killer spot on the chassis. It also helps to put something on the optical drive (and cable) itself to layer up on protection and limit the chances for another failure as long as possible. Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable. '''''If you don't replace the cable any SSD you put in there will not work correctly and create issues until it’s done. Do it when you buy the machine and get it home or do it once you put a new drive in. The SATA II cable is what causes 90-99% of drive issues - nor does the tendency for damage.'''''
+These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs to be replaced. You also need to pad the unibody where the hard drive rests as this is a known cable killer spot on the chassis. It also helps to put something on the optical drive (and cable) itself to layer up on protection and limit the chances for another failure as long as possible. Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable. '''''If you don't replace the cable any SSD you put in there will not work correctly and create issues until it’s done. Do it when you buy the machine and get it home or do it once you put a new drive in. The SATA II cable is what causes 90-99% of drive issues - nor does the tendency for damage help.'''''
In terms of patching, refer to these two photos:
[image|1933291]
(Can use any tape here that’s thin - if you use double sided DON’T remove the protective layer)
[image|1933292]
This image from @mayer on how he does it. I more or less mirrored it in mine.
In addition to that, I have put electrical tape on the lower portion of the optical drive where the cable rests to be absolutely sure. The back cable and optical drive patch is precautionary and not strictly needed but it’s another layer of protection I chose to add.
As far as the SSDs go I’ve had issues with Crucial before (and Samsung had Linux TRIM issues with the 840 EVO, but that’s long since patched and hasn’t reoccured) so I usually recommend the Samsung. If you’re on a student bugdet, look into a WD or SanDisk (WD now owns SanDisk); WD just rebrands SanDisk SSDs so go off of price and spec.

Estatus:

open

Editado por: Nick ,

Texto:

-These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs replacement. You also need to pad the unibody where the hard drive rests as this is a known cable killer spot. It also helps to put sometthing on the optical drive (and cable) itself to get things to be a bit more favorable in terms of how long the new cable lasts. Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable. '''''If you don't replace the cable any SSD you put in there will not work correctly and create issues until it’s done. Do it when you buy the machine and get it home or do it once you put a new drive in. The SATA II cable is what causes 90-99% of drive issues - nor does the tendency for damage.'''''
+These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs to be replaced. You also need to pad the unibody where the hard drive rests as this is a known cable killer spot on the chassis. It also helps to put something on the optical drive (and cable) itself to layer up on protection and limit the chances for another failure as long as possible. Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable. '''''If you don't replace the cable any SSD you put in there will not work correctly and create issues until it’s done. Do it when you buy the machine and get it home or do it once you put a new drive in. The SATA II cable is what causes 90-99% of drive issues - nor does the tendency for damage.'''''
In terms of patching, refer to these two photos:
[image|1933291]
(Can use any tape here that’s thin - if you use double sided DON’T remove the protective layer)
[image|1933292]
This image from @mayer on how he does it. I more or less mirrored it in mine.
In addition to that, I have put electrical tape on the lower portion of the optical drive where the cable rests to be absolutely sure. The back cable and optical drive patch is precautionary and not strictly needed but it’s another layer of protection I chose to add.
As far as the SSDs go I’ve had issues with Crucial before (and Samsung had Linux TRIM issues with the 840 EVO, but that’s long since patched and hasn’t reoccured) so I usually recommend the Samsung. If you’re on a student bugdet, look into a WD or SanDisk (WD now owns SanDisk); WD just rebrands SanDisk SSDs so go off of price and spec.

Estatus:

open

Editado por: Nick ,

Texto:

-These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs replacement. You also need to pad the unibody where the hard drive rests as this is a known cable killer spot. It also helps to put sometthing on the optical drive (and cable) itself to get things to be a bit more favorable in terms of how long the new cable lasts. Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable. '''''If you don't replace the cable any SSD you put in there will not work correctly and create issues until it’s done. Do it when you buy the machine and get it home or do it once you put a new drive in. The SATA II cable is what causes 90-99% of drive issues.'''''
+These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs replacement. You also need to pad the unibody where the hard drive rests as this is a known cable killer spot. It also helps to put sometthing on the optical drive (and cable) itself to get things to be a bit more favorable in terms of how long the new cable lasts. Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable. '''''If you don't replace the cable any SSD you put in there will not work correctly and create issues until it’s done. Do it when you buy the machine and get it home or do it once you put a new drive in. The SATA II cable is what causes 90-99% of drive issues - nor does the tendency for damage.'''''
In terms of patching, refer to these two photos:
[image|1933291]
(Can use any tape here that’s thin - if you use double sided DON’T remove the protective layer)
[image|1933292]
This image from @mayer on how he does it. I more or less mirrored it in mine.
In addition to that, I have put electrical tape on the lower portion of the optical drive where the cable rests to be absolutely sure. The back cable and optical drive patch is precautionary and not strictly needed but it’s another layer of protection I chose to add.
As far as the SSDs go I’ve had issues with Crucial before (and Samsung had Linux TRIM issues with the 840 EVO, but that’s long since patched and hasn’t reoccured) so I usually recommend the Samsung. If you’re on a student bugdet, look into a WD or SanDisk (WD now owns SanDisk); WD just rebrands SanDisk SSDs so go off of price and spec.

Estatus:

open

Editado por: Nick ,

Texto:

-These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs replacement. You also need to pad the unibody where the hard drive rests as this is a known cable killer spot. It also helps to put sometthing on the optical drive (and cable) itself to get things to be a bit more favorable in terms of how long the new cable lasts. Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable. '''''If you don't replace the cable any SSD you put in there will make it known it isn't happy with the SATA II wiring or pre-existing damage many have.'''''
+These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs replacement. You also need to pad the unibody where the hard drive rests as this is a known cable killer spot. It also helps to put sometthing on the optical drive (and cable) itself to get things to be a bit more favorable in terms of how long the new cable lasts. Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable. '''''If you don't replace the cable any SSD you put in there will not work correctly and create issues until it’s done. Do it when you buy the machine and get it home or do it once you put a new drive in. The SATA II cable is what causes 90-99% of drive issues.'''''
In terms of patching, refer to these two photos:
[image|1933291]
(Can use any tape here that’s thin - if you use double sided DON’T remove the protective layer)
[image|1933292]
This image from @mayer on how he does it. I more or less mirrored it in mine.
In addition to that, I have put electrical tape on the lower portion of the optical drive where the cable rests to be absolutely sure. The back cable and optical drive patch is precautionary and not strictly needed but it’s another layer of protection I chose to add.
As far as the SSDs go I’ve had issues with Crucial before (and Samsung had Linux TRIM issues with the 840 EVO, but that’s long since patched and hasn’t reoccured) so I usually recommend the Samsung. If you’re on a student bugdet, look into a WD or SanDisk (WD now owns SanDisk); WD just rebrands SanDisk SSDs so go off of price and spec.

Estatus:

open

Editado por: Nick ,

Texto:

-These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs replacement. You also need to pad the unibody where the hard drive rests as this is a known cable killer spot. It also helps to put sometthing on the optical drive (and cable) itself to get things to be a bit more favorable in terms of how long the new cable lasts. Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable. If you don't replace the cable any SSD you put in there will make it known it isn't happy with the SATA II or pre-existing damage many have.
+These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs replacement. You also need to pad the unibody where the hard drive rests as this is a known cable killer spot. It also helps to put sometthing on the optical drive (and cable) itself to get things to be a bit more favorable in terms of how long the new cable lasts. Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable. '''''If you don't replace the cable any SSD you put in there will make it known it isn't happy with the SATA II wiring or pre-existing damage many have.'''''
In terms of patching, refer to these two photos:
[image|1933291]
(Can use any tape here that’s thin - if you use double sided DON’T remove the protective layer)
[image|1933292]
This image from @mayer on how he does it. I more or less mirrored it in mine.
In addition to that, I have put electrical tape on the lower portion of the optical drive where the cable rests to be absolutely sure. The back cable and optical drive patch is precautionary and not strictly needed but it’s another layer of protection I chose to add.
As far as the SSDs go I’ve had issues with Crucial before (and Samsung had Linux TRIM issues with the 840 EVO, but that’s long since patched and hasn’t reoccured) so I usually recommend the Samsung. If you’re on a student bugdet, look into a WD or SanDisk (WD now owns SanDisk); WD just rebrands SanDisk SSDs so go off of price and spec.

Estatus:

open

Editado por: Nick ,

Texto:

-These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs replacement. You also need to pad the unibody where the hard drive rests as this is a known cable killer spot. It also helps to put sometthing on the optical drive (and cable) itself to get things to be a bit more favorable in terms of how long the new cable lasts. Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable.
+These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs replacement. You also need to pad the unibody where the hard drive rests as this is a known cable killer spot. It also helps to put sometthing on the optical drive (and cable) itself to get things to be a bit more favorable in terms of how long the new cable lasts. Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable. If you don't replace the cable any SSD you put in there will make it known it isn't happy with the SATA II or pre-existing damage many have.
In terms of patching, refer to these two photos:
[image|1933291]
(Can use any tape here that’s thin - if you use double sided DON’T remove the protective layer)
[image|1933292]
This image from @mayer on how he does it. I more or less mirrored it in mine.
In addition to that, I have put electrical tape on the lower portion of the optical drive where the cable rests to be absolutely sure. The back cable and optical drive patch is precautionary and not strictly needed but it’s another layer of protection I chose to add.
As far as the SSDs go I’ve had issues with Crucial before (and Samsung had Linux TRIM issues with the 840 EVO, but that’s long since patched and hasn’t reoccured) so I usually recommend the Samsung. If you’re on a student bugdet, look into a WD or SanDisk (WD now owns SanDisk); WD just rebrands SanDisk SSDs so go off of price and spec.

Estatus:

open

Editado por: Nick ,

Texto:

-These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs replacement. You also need to pad the optical drive and unibody as these areas are known to kill the cable. Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable.
+These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs replacement. You also need to pad the unibody where the hard drive rests as this is a known cable killer spot. It also helps to put sometthing on the optical drive (and cable) itself to get things to be a bit more favorable in terms of how long the new cable lasts. Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable.
In terms of patching, refer to these two photos:
[image|1933291]
(Can use any tape here that’s thin - if you use double sided DON’T remove the protective layer)
[image|1933292]
-Image from @mayer on how he does it.
+This image from @mayer on how he does it. I more or less mirrored it in mine.
In addition to that, I have put electrical tape on the lower portion of the optical drive where the cable rests to be absolutely sure. The back cable and optical drive patch is precautionary and not strictly needed but it’s another layer of protection I chose to add.
As far as the SSDs go I’ve had issues with Crucial before (and Samsung had Linux TRIM issues with the 840 EVO, but that’s long since patched and hasn’t reoccured) so I usually recommend the Samsung. If you’re on a student bugdet, look into a WD or SanDisk (WD now owns SanDisk); WD just rebrands SanDisk SSDs so go off of price and spec.

Estatus:

open

Editado por: Nick ,

Texto:

These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs replacement. You also need to pad the optical drive and unibody as these areas are known to kill the cable. Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable.
In terms of patching, refer to these two photos:
[image|1933291]
(Can use any tape here that’s thin - if you use double sided DON’T remove the protective layer)
[image|1933292]
Image from @mayer on how he does it.
In addition to that, I have put electrical tape on the lower portion of the optical drive where the cable rests to be absolutely sure. The back cable and optical drive patch is precautionary and not strictly needed but it’s another layer of protection I chose to add.
+
+As far as the SSDs go I’ve had issues with Crucial before (and Samsung had Linux TRIM issues with the 840 EVO, but that’s long since patched and hasn’t reoccured) so I usually recommend the Samsung. If you’re on a student bugdet, look into a WD or SanDisk (WD now owns SanDisk); WD just rebrands SanDisk SSDs so go off of price and spec.

Estatus:

open

Editado por: Nick ,

Texto:

These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs replacement. You also need to pad the optical drive and unibody as these areas are known to kill the cable. Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable.
In terms of patching, refer to these two photos:
[image|1933291]
(Can use any tape here that’s thin - if you use double sided DON’T remove the protective layer)
[image|1933292]
Image from @mayer on how he does it.
-In addition to that, I have put electrical tape on the lower portion of the optical drive where the cable rests to be absolutely sure.
+In addition to that, I have put electrical tape on the lower portion of the optical drive where the cable rests to be absolutely sure. The back cable and optical drive patch is precautionary and not strictly needed but it’s another layer of protection I chose to add.

Estatus:

open

Editado por: Nick ,

Texto:

These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs replacement. You also need to pad the optical drive and unibody as these areas are known to kill the cable. Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable.
In terms of patching, refer to these two photos:
[image|1933291]
(Can use any tape here that’s thin - if you use double sided DON’T remove the protective layer)
[image|1933292]
Image from @mayer on how he does it.
-In addition to that, I have put electrical tape on the optical drive where the cable rests to be absolutely sure.
+In addition to that, I have put electrical tape on the lower portion of the optical drive where the cable rests to be absolutely sure.

Estatus:

open

Editado por: Nick ,

Texto:

These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs replacement. You also need to pad the optical drive and unibody as these areas are known to kill the cable. Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable.
In terms of patching, refer to these two photos:
[image|1933291]
(Can use any tape here that’s thin - if you use double sided DON’T remove the protective layer)
[image|1933292]
+Image from @mayer on how he does it.
+
In addition to that, I have put electrical tape on the optical drive where the cable rests to be absolutely sure.

Estatus:

open

Editado por: Nick ,

Texto:

-These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs replacement. You also need to pad the optical drive and unibody as these areas are known to kill the cable.
-
-Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable.
+These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs replacement. You also need to pad the optical drive and unibody as these areas are known to kill the cable. Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable.
In terms of patching, refer to these two photos:
[image|1933291]
(Can use any tape here that’s thin - if you use double sided DON’T remove the protective layer)
[image|1933292]
In addition to that, I have put electrical tape on the optical drive where the cable rests to be absolutely sure.

Estatus:

open

Editado por: Nick ,

Texto:

These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs replacement. You also need to pad the optical drive and unibody as these areas are known to kill the cable.
-Refer to [guide|10379]|this guide] to change the cable.
+Refer to [guide|10379|this guide] to change the cable.
In terms of patching, refer to these two photos:
[image|1933291]
(Can use any tape here that’s thin - if you use double sided DON’T remove the protective layer)
[image|1933292]
In addition to that, I have put electrical tape on the optical drive where the cable rests to be absolutely sure.

Estatus:

open

Aporte original por: Nick ,

Texto:

These have SATA III support (along with the 2011) so it’ll work but there’s a catch - the original HD cable can’t be trusted and needs replacement. You also need to pad the optical drive and unibody as these areas are known to kill the cable.

Refer to [guide|10379]|this guide] to change the cable.

In terms of patching, refer to these two photos:

[image|1933291]

(Can use any tape here that’s thin - if you use double sided DON’T remove the protective layer)

[image|1933292]

In addition to that, I have put electrical tape on the optical drive where the cable rests to be absolutely sure.

Estatus:

open