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Versión actual por: Jim Lewczyk ,

Texto:

Have you solved your issue?
 
I've fixed about a dozen of these, the past few years (they've turned into an unprofitable hobby). There are a number of problems you can encounter after replacing your touchscreen/digitizer on an iPad mini or mini 2 (I haven't tried models 3 and 4 yet, and this does not apply to the full sized iPads).
 
Note: Always dry-fit the pieces before screwing and taping/gluing everything down. Always turn the power on and make sure everything works before closing up: power button, LCD, touchscreen, home button, volume buttons, sound, cameras, and, if you care, smart cover.
 
Also, keep all the broken parts until you've really completed the repair. There are bits and pieces on the touchscreen that you might not even notice until you find the replacement doesn't have everything.
 
Oh, and clean the old LCD well before closing up. You may be proud of your fix, but at some point you'll be really annoyed at that thumbprint or bit of lint under the touchscreen that you could have cleaned up but didn't because you were in a hurry to call it "done". Actually I find this the most tedious part of process, as you almost always see another smudge underneath the touchscreen after it's closed up.
 
If you paid relatively more ($30-50) for a touchscreen, it should have everything on it, ready to install.
 
If you got the really cheap ($9) touchscreen, you need to transfer several bits from the old to the new screen
 
* The camera alignment frame (use hair dryer heat to loosen)
* The home button assembly (frame, button, use hair dryer heat to loosen)
* The home button ribbon cable (unsolder it, don't peel or rip it off)
* The "IC cable", which solders to the new raw touchscreen cable (unsolder it)
* The cover magnets that grip a smart (or other) cover down (not to be confused with the smart cover sensors, which are on the button ribbon cable)
 
Always clean thoroughly and use new double stick adhesive on the button frame. There's nothing more frustrating than a home button that becomes loose or floats around after you've closed things up. I sometimes resort to superglue in addition to the double stick adhesives if they're stubborn.
 
Here are some other problems you may encounter:
 
'''iPad screen remains blank after repair'''
 
* Battery connector not snapped into place
* LCD connector not snapped into place
* LCD connector misaligned
* -- It is easy to misalign the LCD connector when it refuses to "snap" nicely into place. Retry it, and try to be more careful. If you end up damaging the connector on the LCD ribbon cable, it becomes nearly impossible to align it properly and you'll never feel that satisfying "snap" into place. I mainly saw this when I tried to reuse one LCD in several different iPads in order to test them. I wore out that connector.
* iPad Mini needs to be reset (power and home button pressed for 15 seconds)
* Backlight fuse has blown
* -- A symptom of the a backlight failure is that you can actually see the contents of the screen in a strong light (direct sun or a bright lamp).
* -- This can be caused by not unplugging the battery before unplugging the LCD.
* -- Sometimes it just happens. I've had the fuse blow when it's been closed up and in use for months.
* -- The "backlight fuse" is really a small inductor. It's difficult to reach and I usually just bridge across it with a fine wire rather than replace it. The "backlight IC" is just a large diode. It's even more difficult to reach and there isn't a quick and dirty fix, you have to replace it. I've only had to replace the backlight inductor once.
 
'''The screen shows the Apple Logo then goes blank -- Touchscreen not detected'''
 
* Ensure the touchscreen connector is attached
* If you removed a lot of tape to perform the repair, make sure it's put back, you especially don't want to short the IC cable pins to the case.
* If you performed soldering to the IC cable, double check your soldering job.
 
'''iPad touchscreen has dead regions'''
 
* Poorly soldered connections to the IC cable.
* --There are videos on youtube which show people soldering that IC cable with large, oversized soldering irons. They use lots of flux and clean irons. If your iron tip is rough, or you didn't use enough flux, or you had to solder over and over to get it right, you may have damaged the extremely fine traces on the ribbon cable. You need decent magnification (inspection microscope) to even see the damage. You'll have to get another touchscreen and start over.
* Damaged ribbon cable
* -- There are almost 70 signal traces in that ribbon cable. You can't tear it, then tape it or press it back down and expect it to work. There is no place on that cable where a tear is "safe". You can't replace it either. Get a new touchscreen.
* This one really sucks. If the touchscreen worked before you closed up the iPad mini, then stopped when you glued it down, you probably pinched the ribbon cable with a tight fold. If you remove the touchscreen without breaking it, you might be able to unpinch the cable and it'll come back to life, but most likely you've damaged the cable and you'll have to go get another touchscreen and start over. The last thing I do before closing up the touchscreen (I mean the very last thing, after the double -stick adhesive is in place and the camera-end is stuck down), is reach in with a pair of long tweezers, grab that touchscreen ribbon and "curl" or twist it so it doesn't get folded flat between the chassis and the screen.
 
'''Home button spurious activation'''
 
* This is another symptom of a pinched touchscreen cable. See above.
 
'''Home button doesn't work and Smartwork'''
'''Smart
cover no longer detected'''
'''Home button doesn't work and Smartwork'''
'''Smart
cover no longer detected'''
 
* Button ribbon cable not soldered well
* Touchscreen ribbon not soldered to IC cable well (there are 8 pins dedicated to the button and smart cover sensors on there)
* If you purchased pieces on-line and bought a button ribbon cable, you might have noticed that there were $2 cables and $10 cables. Guess what, the cheap cables are missing the SMT parts which make the smart cover work. Most people apparently don't check that, or don't have a smart cover, or were happy that the rest of the touchscreen now works, and didn't want to look into why the smart cover no longer works.
 
Oh, there are so many other things that can go wrong. An open iPad is a fragile thing. Once closed up, they're pretty robust.
 
I am currently wondering why an iPad mini on my workbench that booted last week, has run down its battery and chimes every 30 seconds when I try to charge it. The screen remains blank and it doesn't appear to boot. There's no Apple icon, and it's not the backlight. I haven't tried to reset it yet.

Estatus:

open

Editado por: Jim Lewczyk ,

Texto:

Have you solved your issue?
 
I've fixed about a dozen of these, the past few years (they've turned into an unprofitable hobby). There are a number of problems you can encounter after replacing your touchscreen/digitizer on an iPad mini or mini 2 (I haven't tried models 3 and 4 yet, and this does not apply to the full sized iPads).
 
Note: Always dry-fit the pieces before screwing and taping/gluing everything down. Always turn the power on and make sure everything works before closing up: power button, LCD, touchscreen, home button, volume buttons, sound, cameras, and, if you care, smart cover.
 
Also, keep all the broken parts until you've really completed the repair. There are bits and pieces on the touchscreen that you might not even notice until you find the replacement doesn't have everything.
 
Oh, and clean the old LCD well before closing up. You may be proud that it's fixed, and you did itof your fix, but at some point you'll be really annoyed at that thumbprint or bit of lint under the touchscreen that you could have cleaned up but didn't because you were in a hurry to call it "done". Actually Actually I find this the most tedious part of process, as you almost always see another smudge underneath the touchscreen after it's closed up.
Oh, and clean the old LCD well before closing up. You may be proud that it's fixed, and you did itof your fix, but at some point you'll be really annoyed at that thumbprint or bit of lint under the touchscreen that you could have cleaned up but didn't because you were in a hurry to call it "done". Actually Actually I find this the most tedious part of process, as you almost always see another smudge underneath the touchscreen after it's closed up.
 
If you paid relatively more ($30-50) for a touchscreen, it should have everything on it, ready to install.
 
If you got the really cheap ($9) touchscreen, you need to transfer several bits from the old to the new screen
 
* The camera alignment frame (use hair dryer heat to loosen)
* The home button assembly (frame, button, use hair dryer heat to loosen)
* The home button ribbon cable (unsolder it, don't peel or rip it off)
* The "IC cable", which solders to the new raw touchscreen cable (unsolder it)
* The cover magnets that grip a smart (or other) cover down (not to be confused with the smart cover sensors, which are on the button ribbon cable)
 
Always clean thoroughly and use new double stick adhesive on the button frame. There's nothing more frustrating than a home button that becomes loose or floats around after you've closed things up. I sometimes resort to superglue in addition to the double stick adhesives if they're stubborn.
 
Here are some other problems you may encounter:
 
'''iPad screen remains blank after repair'''
 
* Battery connector not snapped into place
* LCD connector not snapped into place
* LCD connector misaligned
* -- It is easy to misalign the LCD connector when it refuses to "snap" nicely into place. Retry it, and try to be more careful. If you end up damaging the connector on the LCD ribbon cable, it becomes nearly impossible to align it properly and you'll never feel that satisfying "snap" into place. I mainly saw this when I tried to reuse one LCD in several different iPads in order to test them. I wore out that connector.
* iPad Mini needs to be reset (power and home button pressed for 15 seconds)
* Backlight fuse has blown
* -- A symptom of the a backlight failure is that you can actually see the contents of the screen in a strong light (direct sun or a bright lamp).
* -- This can be caused by not unplugging the battery before unplugging the LCD.
* -- Sometimes it just happens. I've had the fuse blow when it's been closed up and in use for months.
* -- The "backlight fuse" is really a small inductor. It's difficult to reach and I usually just bridge across it with a fine wire rather than replace it. The "backlight IC" is just a large diode. It's even more difficult to reach and there isn't a quick and dirty fix, you have to replace it. I've only had to replace the backlight inductor once.
 
'''The screen shows the Apple Logo then goes blank -- Touchscreen not detected'''
 
* Ensure the touchscreen connector is attached
* If you removed a lot of tape to perform the repair, make sure it's put back, you especially don't want to short the IC cable pins to the case.
* If you performed soldering to the IC cable, double check your soldering job.
 
'''iPad touchscreen has dead regions'''
 
* Poorly soldered connections to the IC cable.
* --There are videos on youtube which show people soldering that IC cable with large, oversized soldering irons. They use lots of flux and clearclean irons. If your iron tip is rough, or you didn't use enough flux, or you had to solder over and over to get it right, you may have damaged the extremely fine traces on the ribbon cable. You need decent magnification (inspection microscope) to even see the damage. You'll have to get another touchscreen and start over.
* --There are videos on youtube which show people soldering that IC cable with large, oversized soldering irons. They use lots of flux and clearclean irons. If your iron tip is rough, or you didn't use enough flux, or you had to solder over and over to get it right, you may have damaged the extremely fine traces on the ribbon cable. You need decent magnification (inspection microscope) to even see the damage. You'll have to get another touchscreen and start over.
* Damaged ribbon cable
* -- There are almost 70 signal traces in that ribbon cable. You can't tear it, then tape it or press it back down and expect it to work. There is no place on that cable where a tear is "safe". You can't replace it either. Get a new touchscreen.
* This one really sucks. If the touchscreen worked before you closed up the iPad mini, then stopped when you glued it down, you probably pinched the ribbon cable with a tight fold. If you remove the touchscreen without breaking it, you might be able to unpinch the cable and it'll come back to life, but most likely you've damaged the cable and you'll have to go get another touchscreen and start over. The last thing I do before closing up the touchscreen (I mean the very last thing, after the double -stick adhesive is in place and the camera-end is stuck down), is reach in with a pair of long tweezers, grab that touchscreen ribbon and "curl" or twist it so it doesn't get folded flat between the chassis and the screen.
 
'''Home button spurious activation'''
 
* This is another symptom of a pinched touchscreen cable. See above.
 
'''Home button doesn't work and Smart cover no longer detected'''
 
* Button ribbon cable not soldered well
* Touchscreen ribbon not soldered to IC cable well (there are 8 pins dedicated to the button and smart cover sensors on there)
* If you purchased pieces on-line and bought a button ribbon cable, you might have noticed that there were $2 cables and $10 cables. Guess what, the cheap cables are missing the SMT parts which make the smart cover work. Most people apparently don't check that, or don't have a smart cover, or were happy that the rest of the touchscreen now works, and didn't want to look into why the smart cover no longer works.
 
Oh, there are so many other things that can go wrong. An open iPad is a fragile thing. Once closed up, they're pretty robust.
 
I am currently wondering why an iPad mini on my workbench that booted last week, has run down its battery and chimes every 30 seconds when I try to charge it. The screen remains blank and it doesn't appear to boot. There's no Apple icon, and it's not the backlight. I haven't tried to reset it yet.

Estatus:

open

Editado por: Jim Lewczyk ,

Texto:

Have you solved your issue?
 
I've fixed about a dozen of these, the past few years (they've turned into an unprofitable hobby). There are a number of problems you can encounter after replacing your touchscreen/digitizer on an iPad mini or mini 2 (I haven't tried models 3 and 4 yet, and this does not apply to the full sized iPads).
 
Note: Always dry-fit the pieces before screwing and taping/gluing everything down. Always turn the power on and make sure everything works before closing up: power button, LCD, touchscreen, home button, volume buttons, sound, cameras, and, if you care, smart cover.
 
Also, keep all the broken parts until you've really completed the repair. There are bits and pieces on the touchscreen that you might not even notice until you find the replacement doesn't have everything.
 
Oh, and clean the old LCD well before closing up. You may be proud that it's fixed, and you did it, but at some point you'll be really annoyed at that thumbprint or bit of lint under the touchscreen that you could have cleaned up but didn't because you were in a hurry to call it "done". Actually I find this the most tedious part of process, as you almost always see another smudge underneath the touchscreen after it's closed up.
 
If you paid relatively more ($30-50) for a touchscreen, it should have everything on it, ready to install.
 
If you got the really cheap ($9) touchscreen, you need to transfer several bits from the old to the new screen
 
* The camera alignment frame (use hair dryer heat to loosen)
* The home button assembly (frame, button, use hair dryer heat to loosen)
* The home button ribbon cable (unsolder it, don't peel or rip it off)
* The "IC cable", which solders to the new raw touchscreen cable (unsolder it)
* The cover magnets that grip a smart (or other) cover down (not to be confused with the smart cover sensors, which are on the button ribbon cable)
 
Always clean thoroughly and use new double stick adhesive on the button frame. There's nothing more frustrating than a home button that becomes loose or floats around after you've closed things up. I sometimes resort to superglue in addition to the double stick adhesives if they're stubborn.
 
Here are some other problems you may encounter:
 
'''iPad screen remains blank after repair'''
 
* Battery connector not snapped into place
* LCD connector not snapped into place
* LCD connector misaligned
* -- It is easy to misalign the LCD connector when it refuses to "snap" nicely into place. Retry it, and try to be more careful. If you end up damaging the connector on the LCD ribbon cable, it becomes nearly impossible to align it properly and you'll never feel that satisfying "snap" into place. I mainly saw this when I tried to reuse one LCD in several different iPads in order to test them. I wore out that connector.
* iPad Mini needs to be reset (power and home button pressed for 15 seconds)
* Backlight fuse has blown
* -- A symptom of the a backlight failure is that you can actually see the contents of the screen in a strong light (direct sun or a bright lamp).
* -- This can be caused by not unplugging the battery before unplugging the LCD.
* -- Sometimes it just happens. I've had the fuse blow when it's been closed up and in use for months.
* -- The "backlight fuse" is really a small inductor. It's difficult to reach and I usually just bridge across it with a fine wire rather than replace it. The "backlight IC" is just a large diode. It's even more difficult to reach and there isn't a quick and dirty fix, you have to replace it. I've only had to replace the backlight inductor once.
 
'''The screen shows the Apple Logo then goes blank -- Touchscreen not detected'''
 
* Ensure the touchscreen connector is attached
* If you removed a lot of tape to perform the repair, make sure it's put back, you especially don't want to short the IC cable pins to the case.
* If you performed soldering to the IC cable, double check your soldering job.
 
'''iPad touchscreen has dead regions'''
 
* Poorly soldered connections to the IC cable.
* --There are videos on youtube which show people soldering that IC cable with large, oversized soldering irons. They use lots of flux and clear irons. If your iron tip is rough, or you didn't use enough flux, or you had to solder over and over to get it right, you may have damaged the extremely fine traces on the ribbon cable. You need decent magnification (inspection microscope) to even see the damage. You'll have to get another touchscreen and start over.
* Damaged ribbon cable
* -- There are almost 70 signal traces in that ribbon cable. You can't tear it, then tape it or press it back down and expect it to work. There is no place on that cable where a tear is "safe". You can't replace it either. Get a new touchscreen.
* This one really sucks. If the touchscreen worked before you closed up the iPad mini, then stopped when you glued it down, you probably pinched the ribbon cable with a tight fold. If you remove the touchscreen without breaking it, you might be able to unpinch the cable and it'll come back to life, but most likely you've damaged the cable and you'll have to go get another touchscreen and start over. The last thing I do before closing up the touchscreen (I mean the very last thing, after the double -stick adhesive is in place and the camera-end is stuck down), is reach in with a pair of long tweezers, grab that touchscreen ribbon and "curl" or twist it so it doesn't get folded flat between the chassis and the screen.
 
'''Home button doesn't work

Smart cover no longer detected'''
spurious activation'''
* This is another symptom of a pinched touchscreen cable. See above.
'''Home button doesn't work

Smart cover no longer detected'''
spurious activation'''
* This is another symptom of a pinched touchscreen cable. See above.
 
'''Home button doesn't work and Smart cover no longer detected'''
* Button ribbon cable not soldered well
* Touchscreen ribbon not soldered to IC cable well (there are 8 pins dedicated to the button and smart cover sensors on there)
* If you purchased pieces on-line and bought a button ribbon cable, you might have noticed that there were $2 cables and $10 cables. Guess what, the cheap cables are missing the SMT parts which make the smart cover work. Most people apparently don't check that, or don't have a smart cover, or were happy that the rest of the touchscreen now works, and didn't want to look into why the smart cover no longer works.
 
Oh, there are so many other things that can go wrong. An open iPad is a fragile thing. Once closed up, they're pretty robust.
 
I am currently wondering why an iPad mini on my workbench that booted last week, has run down its battery and chimes every 30 seconds when I try to charge it. The screen remains blank and it doesn't appear to boot. There's no Apple icon, and it's not the backlight. I haven't tried to reset it yet.

Estatus:

open

Editado por: Jim Lewczyk ,

Texto:

Have you solved your issue?
 
I've fixed about a dozen of these, the past few years (they've turned into an unprofitable hobby). There are a number of problems you can encounter after replacing your touchscreen/digitizer on an iPad mini or mini 2 (I haven't tried models 3 and 4 yet, and this does not apply to the full sized iPads).
 
Note: Always dry-fit the pieces before screwing and taping/gluing everything down. Always turn the power on and make sure everything works before closing up: power button, LCD, touchscreen, home button, volume buttons, sound, cameras, and, if you care, smart cover.
 
Also, keep all the broken parts until you've really completed the repair. There are bits and pieces on the touchscreen that you might not even notice until you find the replacement doesn't have everything.
 
Oh, and clean the old LCD well before closing up. You may be proud that it's fixed, and you did it, but at some point you'll be really annoyed at that thumbprint or bit of lint under the touchscreen that you could have cleaned up but didn't because you were in a hurry to call it "done". Actually I find this the most tedious part of process, as you almost always see another smudge underneath the touchscreen after it's closed up.
 
If you paid relatively more ($30-50) for a touchscreen, it should have everything on it, ready to install.
 
If you got the really cheap ($9) touchscreen, you need to transfer several bits from the old to the new screen
 
* The camera alignment frame (use hair dryer heat to loosen)
* The home button assembly (frame, button, use hair dryer heat to loosen)
* The home button ribbon cable (unsolder it, don't peel or rip it off)
* The "IC cable", which solders to the new raw touchscreen cable (unsolder it)
* The cover magnets that grip a smart (or other) cover down (not to be confused with the smart cover sensors, which are on the button ribbon cable)
 
Always clean thoroughly and use new double stick adhesive on the button frame. There's nothing more frustrating than a home button that becomes loose or floats around after you've closed things up. I sometimes resort to superglue in addition to the double stick adhesives if they're stubborn.
 
Here are some other problems you may encounter:
 
'''iPad screen remains blank after repair'''
 
* Battery connector not snapped into place
* LCD connector not snapped into place *LCD
* LCD
connector misaligned
* * It-- It is easy to misalign the LCD connector when it refuses to "snap" nicely into place. Retry it, and try to be more careful. If you end up damaging the connector on the LCD ribbon cable, it becomes nearly impossible to align it properly and you'll never feel that satisfying "snap" into place. I mainly saw this when I tried to reuse one LCD in several different iPads in order to test them. I wore out that connector.
* LCD connector not snapped into place *LCD
* LCD
connector misaligned
* * It-- It is easy to misalign the LCD connector when it refuses to "snap" nicely into place. Retry it, and try to be more careful. If you end up damaging the connector on the LCD ribbon cable, it becomes nearly impossible to align it properly and you'll never feel that satisfying "snap" into place. I mainly saw this when I tried to reuse one LCD in several different iPads in order to test them. I wore out that connector.
* iPad Mini needs to be reset (power and home button pressed for 15 seconds)
* Backlight fuse has blown
* *-- A symptom of the a backlight failure is that you can actually see the contents of the screen in a strong light (direct sun or a bright lamp).
* *-- This can be caused by not unplugging the battery before unplugging the LCD.
* *-- Sometimes it just happens. I've had the fuse blow when it's been closed up and in use for months.
* *-- The "backlight fuse" is really a small inductor. It's difficult to reach and I usually just bridge across it with a fine wire rather than replace it. The "backlight IC" is just a large diode. It's even more difficult to reach and there isn't a quick and dirty fix, you have to replace it. I've only had to replace the backlight inductor once.
* *-- A symptom of the a backlight failure is that you can actually see the contents of the screen in a strong light (direct sun or a bright lamp).
* *-- This can be caused by not unplugging the battery before unplugging the LCD.
* *-- Sometimes it just happens. I've had the fuse blow when it's been closed up and in use for months.
* *-- The "backlight fuse" is really a small inductor. It's difficult to reach and I usually just bridge across it with a fine wire rather than replace it. The "backlight IC" is just a large diode. It's even more difficult to reach and there isn't a quick and dirty fix, you have to replace it. I've only had to replace the backlight inductor once.
 
'''The screen shows the Apple Logo then goes blank -- Touchscreen not detected'''
 
* Ensure the touchscreen connector is attached
* If you removed a lot of tape to perform the repair, make sure it's put back, you especially don't want to short the IC cable pins to the case.
* If you performed soldering to the IC cable, double check your soldering job.
 
'''iPad touchscreen has dead regions'''
 
* Poorly soldered connections to the IC cable.
* * There--There are videos on youtube which show people soldering that IC cable with large, oversized soldering irons. They use lots of flux and clear irons. If your iron tip is rough, or you didn't use enough flux, or you had to solder over and over to get it right, you may have damaged the extremely fine traces on the ribbon cable. You need decent magnification (inspection microscope) to even see the damage. You'll have to get another touchscreen and start over.
* * There--There are videos on youtube which show people soldering that IC cable with large, oversized soldering irons. They use lots of flux and clear irons. If your iron tip is rough, or you didn't use enough flux, or you had to solder over and over to get it right, you may have damaged the extremely fine traces on the ribbon cable. You need decent magnification (inspection microscope) to even see the damage. You'll have to get another touchscreen and start over.
* Damaged ribbon cable
* *-- There are almost 70 signal traces in that ribbon cable. You can't tear it, then tape it or press it back down and expect it to work. There is no place on that cable where a tear is "safe". You can't replace it either. Get a new touchscreen.
* *-- There are almost 70 signal traces in that ribbon cable. You can't tear it, then tape it or press it back down and expect it to work. There is no place on that cable where a tear is "safe". You can't replace it either. Get a new touchscreen.
* This one really sucks. If the touchscreen worked before you closed up the iPad mini, then stopped when you glued it down, you probably pinched the ribbon cable with a tight fold. If you remove the touchscreen without breaking it, you might be able to unpinch the cable and it'll come back to life, but most likely you've damaged the cable and you'll have to go get another touchscreen and start over. The last thing I do before closing up the touchscreen (I mean the very last thing, after the double -stick adhesive is in place and the camera-end is stuck down), is reach in with a pair of long tweezers, grab that touchscreen ribbon and "curl" or twist it so it doesn't get folded flat between the chassis and the screen.
 
'''Home button doesn't work
 
Smart cover no longer detected'''
 
* Button ribbon cable not soldered well
* Touchscreen ribbon not soldered to IC cable well (there are 8 pins dedicated to the button and smart cover sensors on there)
* If you purchased pieces on-line and bought a button ribbon cable, you might have noticed that there were $2 cables and $10 cables. Guess what, the cheap cables are missing the SMT parts which make the smart cover work. Most people apparently don't check that, or don't have a smart cover, or were happy that the rest of the touchscreen now works, and didn't want to look into why the smart cover no longer works.
 
Oh, there are so many other things that can go wrong. An open iPad is a fragile thing. Once closed up, they're pretty robust.
 
I am currently wondering why an iPad mini on my workbench that booted last week, has run down its battery and chimes every 30 seconds when I try to charge it. The screen remains blank and it doesn't appear to boot. There's no Apple icon, and it's not the backlight. I haven't tried to reset it yet.

Estatus:

open

Editado por: Jim Lewczyk ,

Texto:

I have to start with a question? Have you solved your issue?
I have to start with a question? Have you solved your issue?
 
I've fixed about a dozen of these, the past few years (they've turned into an unprofitable hobby). There are a number of problems you can encounter after replacing your touchscreen/digitizer on an iPad mini or mini 2 (I haven't tried models 3 and 4 yet, and this does not apply to the full sized iPads).
 
Note: Always dry-fit the pieces before screwing and taping/gluing everything down. Always turn the power on and make sure everything works before closing up: power button, LCD, touchscreen, home button, volume buttons, sound, cameras, and, if you care, smart cover.
 
Also, keep all the broken parts until you've really completed the repair. There are bits and pieces on the touchscreen that you might not even notice until you find the replacement doesn't have everything.
 
Oh, and clean the old LCD well before closing up. You may be proud that it's fixed, and you did it, but at some point you'll be really annoyed at that thumbprint or bit of lint under the touchscreen that you could have cleaned up but didn't because you were in a hurry to call it "done". Actually I find this the most tedious part of process, as you almost always see another smudge underneath the touchscreen after it's closed up.
 
If you paid relatively more ($30-50) for a touchscreen, it should have everything on it, ready to install.
 
If you got the really cheap ($9) touchscreen, you need to transfer several bits from the old to the new screen:screen
If you got the really cheap ($9) touchscreen, you need to transfer several bits from the old to the new screen:screen
 
*The* The camera alignment frame (use hair dryer heat to loosen)
*The

* The
home button assembly (frame, button, use hair dryer heat to loosen)
*The

* The
home button ribbon cable (unsolder it, don't peel or rip it off)
*The

* The
"IC cable", which solders to the new raw touchscreen cable (unsolder it)
*The

* The
cover magnets that grip a smart (or other) cover down (not to be confused with the smart cover sensors, which are on the button ribbon cable)
*The* The camera alignment frame (use hair dryer heat to loosen)
*The

* The
home button assembly (frame, button, use hair dryer heat to loosen)
*The

* The
home button ribbon cable (unsolder it, don't peel or rip it off)
*The

* The
"IC cable", which solders to the new raw touchscreen cable (unsolder it)
*The

* The
cover magnets that grip a smart (or other) cover down (not to be confused with the smart cover sensors, which are on the button ribbon cable)
 
Always clean thoroughly and use new double stick adhesive on the button frame. There's nothing more frustrating than a home button that becomes loose or floats around after you've closed things up. I sometimes resort to superglue in addition to the double stick adhesives if they're stubborn.
 
Here are some other problems you may encounter:
 
iPad'''iPad screen remains blank after repairrepair'''
* Battery connector not snapped into place
* LCD connector not snapped into place *LCD connector misaligned
* * It is easy to misalign the LCD connector when it refuses to "snap" nicely into place. Retry it, and try to be more careful. If you end up damaging the connector on the LCD ribbon cable, it becomes nearly impossible to align it properly and you'll never feel that satisfying "snap" into place. I mainly saw this when I tried to reuse one LCD in several different iPads in order to test them. I wore out that connector.
* iPad Mini needs to be reset (power and home button pressed for 15 seconds)
* Backlight fuse has blown
* * A symptom of the a backlight failure is that you can actually see the contents of the screen in a strong light (direct sun or a bright lamp).
* * This can be caused by not unplugging the battery before unplugging the LCD.
* * Sometimes it just happens. I've had the fuse blow when it's been closed up and in use for months.
* * The "backlight fuse" is really a small inductor. It's difficult to reach and I usually just bridge across it with a fine wire rather than replace it. The "backlight IC" is just a large diode. It's even more difficult to reach and there isn't a quick and dirty fix, you have to replace it. I've only had to replace the backlight inductor once.
iPad'''iPad screen remains blank after repairrepair'''
* Battery connector not snapped into place
* LCD connector not snapped into place *LCD connector misaligned
* * It is easy to misalign the LCD connector when it refuses to "snap" nicely into place. Retry it, and try to be more careful. If you end up damaging the connector on the LCD ribbon cable, it becomes nearly impossible to align it properly and you'll never feel that satisfying "snap" into place. I mainly saw this when I tried to reuse one LCD in several different iPads in order to test them. I wore out that connector.
* iPad Mini needs to be reset (power and home button pressed for 15 seconds)
* Backlight fuse has blown
* * A symptom of the a backlight failure is that you can actually see the contents of the screen in a strong light (direct sun or a bright lamp).
* * This can be caused by not unplugging the battery before unplugging the LCD.
* * Sometimes it just happens. I've had the fuse blow when it's been closed up and in use for months.
* * The "backlight fuse" is really a small inductor. It's difficult to reach and I usually just bridge across it with a fine wire rather than replace it. The "backlight IC" is just a large diode. It's even more difficult to reach and there isn't a quick and dirty fix, you have to replace it. I've only had to replace the backlight inductor once.
 
*Battery connector'''The screen shows the Apple Logo then goes blank -- Touchscreen not snapped into place
*LCD connector not snapped into place *LCD
detected'''
* Ensure the touchscreen
connector misaligned
**It
is easy to misalign the LCD connector when it refuses to "snap" nicely into place. Retry it, and try to be more careful. Ifattached
* If
you end up damaging the connector on the LCD ribbon cable, it becomes nearly impossible to align it properly and you'll never feel that satisfying "snap" into place. I mainly saw this when I tried to reuse one LCD in several different iPads in order to test them. I wore out that connector.
*iPad Mini needs to be reset (power and home button pressed for 15 seconds)
*Backlight fuse has blown
**A symptom of the
removed a backlight failure is that you can actually see the contentslot of tape to perform the screen in a strong light (direct sun or a bright lamp).
**This can be caused by not unplugging the battery before unplugging the LCD.
**Sometimes it just happens. I've had the fuse blow when
repair, make sure it's been closed up and in use for months.
**The "backlight fuse" is really a small inductor. It's difficult
put back, you especially don't want to reach and I usually just bridge across it with a fine wire rather than replace it. The "backlight IC" is just a large diode. It's even more difficultshort the IC cable pins to reach and there isn't a quick and dirty fix,the case.
* If
you haveperformed soldering to replace it. I've only had to replace the backlight inductor onceIC cable, double check your soldering job.
*Battery connector'''The screen shows the Apple Logo then goes blank -- Touchscreen not snapped into place
*LCD connector not snapped into place *LCD
detected'''
* Ensure the touchscreen
connector misaligned
**It
is easy to misalign the LCD connector when it refuses to "snap" nicely into place. Retry it, and try to be more careful. Ifattached
* If
you end up damaging the connector on the LCD ribbon cable, it becomes nearly impossible to align it properly and you'll never feel that satisfying "snap" into place. I mainly saw this when I tried to reuse one LCD in several different iPads in order to test them. I wore out that connector.
*iPad Mini needs to be reset (power and home button pressed for 15 seconds)
*Backlight fuse has blown
**A symptom of the
removed a backlight failure is that you can actually see the contentslot of tape to perform the screen in a strong light (direct sun or a bright lamp).
**This can be caused by not unplugging the battery before unplugging the LCD.
**Sometimes it just happens. I've had the fuse blow when
repair, make sure it's been closed up and in use for months.
**The "backlight fuse" is really a small inductor. It's difficult
put back, you especially don't want to reach and I usually just bridge across it with a fine wire rather than replace it. The "backlight IC" is just a large diode. It's even more difficultshort the IC cable pins to reach and there isn't a quick and dirty fix,the case.
* If
you haveperformed soldering to replace it. I've only had to replace the backlight inductor onceIC cable, double check your soldering job.
 
The screen shows'''iPad touchscreen has dead regions'''
* Poorly soldered connections to
the Apple Logo then goes blank -- Touchscreen not detected
*Ensure the connector
IC cable.
* * There are videos on youtube which show people soldering that IC cable with large, oversized soldering irons. They use lots of flux and clear irons. If your iron tip
is attached
*If
rough, or you removed a lot ofdidn't use enough flux, or you had to solder over and over to get it right, you may have damaged the extremely fine traces on the ribbon cable. You need decent magnification (inspection microscope) to even see the damage. You'll have to get another touchscreen and start over.
* Damaged ribbon cable
* * There are almost 70 signal traces in that ribbon cable. You can't tear it, then
tape it or press it back down and expect it to performwork. There is no place on that cable where a tear is "safe". You can't replace it either. Get a new touchscreen.
* This one really sucks. If
the repair, make sure it's put back,touchscreen worked before you especially don't wantclosed up the iPad mini, then stopped when you glued it down, you probably pinched the ribbon cable with a tight fold. If you remove the touchscreen without breaking it, you might be able to shortunpinch the IC cable pinsand it'll come back to life, but most likely you've damaged the cable and you'll have to go get another touchscreen and start over. The last thing I do before closing up the touchscreen (I mean the very last thing, after the double -stick adhesive is in place and the camera-end is stuck down), is reach in with a pair of long tweezers, grab that touchscreen ribbon and "curl" or twist it so it doesn't get folded flat between the chassis and the casescreen.
The screen shows'''iPad touchscreen has dead regions'''
* Poorly soldered connections to
the Apple Logo then goes blank -- Touchscreen not detected
*Ensure the connector
IC cable.
* * There are videos on youtube which show people soldering that IC cable with large, oversized soldering irons. They use lots of flux and clear irons. If your iron tip
is attached
*If
rough, or you removed a lot ofdidn't use enough flux, or you had to solder over and over to get it right, you may have damaged the extremely fine traces on the ribbon cable. You need decent magnification (inspection microscope) to even see the damage. You'll have to get another touchscreen and start over.
* Damaged ribbon cable
* * There are almost 70 signal traces in that ribbon cable. You can't tear it, then
tape it or press it back down and expect it to performwork. There is no place on that cable where a tear is "safe". You can't replace it either. Get a new touchscreen.
* This one really sucks. If
the repair, make sure it's put back,touchscreen worked before you especially don't wantclosed up the iPad mini, then stopped when you glued it down, you probably pinched the ribbon cable with a tight fold. If you remove the touchscreen without breaking it, you might be able to shortunpinch the IC cable pinsand it'll come back to life, but most likely you've damaged the cable and you'll have to go get another touchscreen and start over. The last thing I do before closing up the touchscreen (I mean the very last thing, after the double -stick adhesive is in place and the camera-end is stuck down), is reach in with a pair of long tweezers, grab that touchscreen ribbon and "curl" or twist it so it doesn't get folded flat between the chassis and the casescreen.
 
*If you performed soldering to the IC cable, double check your soldering job.

iPad touchscreen has dead regions

*Poorly soldered connections to the IC cable.
**There are videos on youtube which show people soldering that IC cable with large, oversized soldering irons. They use lots of flux and clear irons. If your iron tip is rough, or you didn't use enough flux, or you had to solder over and over to get it right, you may have damaged the extremely fine traces on the ribbon cable. You need decent magnification (inspection microscope) to even see the damage. You'll have to get another touchscreen and start over.
*Damaged ribbon cable
**There are almost 70 signal traces in that ribbon cable. You can't tear it, then tape it or press it back down and expect it to work. There is no place on that cable where a tear is "safe". You can't replace it either. Get a new touchscreen.
*This one really sucks. If the touchscreen worked before you closed up the iPad mini, then stopped when you glued it down, you probably pinched the ribbon cable with a tight fold. If you remove the touchscreen without breaking it, you might be able to unpinch the cable and it'll come back to life, but most likely you've damaged the cable and you'll have to go get another touchscreen and start over. The last thing I do before closing up the touchscreen (I mean the very last thing, after the double -stick adhesive is in place and the camera-end is stuck down), is reach in with a pair of long tweezers, grab that touchscreen ribbon and "curl" or twist it so it doesn't get folded flat between the chassis and the screen.

Home
'''Home button doesn't work
Smart cover no longer detected

*Button
detected'''
* Button
ribbon cable not soldered well
*Touchscreen

* Touchscreen
ribbon not soldered to IC cable well (there are 8 pins dedicated to the button and smart cover sensors on there)
*If

* If
you purchased pieces on-line and bought a button ribbon cable, you might have noticed that there were $2 cables and $10 cables. Guess what, the cheap cables are missing the SMT parts which make the smart cover work. Most people apparently don't check that, or don't have a smart cover, or were happy that the rest of the touchscreen now works, and didn't want to look into why the smart cover no longer works.
*If you performed soldering to the IC cable, double check your soldering job.

iPad touchscreen has dead regions

*Poorly soldered connections to the IC cable.
**There are videos on youtube which show people soldering that IC cable with large, oversized soldering irons. They use lots of flux and clear irons. If your iron tip is rough, or you didn't use enough flux, or you had to solder over and over to get it right, you may have damaged the extremely fine traces on the ribbon cable. You need decent magnification (inspection microscope) to even see the damage. You'll have to get another touchscreen and start over.
*Damaged ribbon cable
**There are almost 70 signal traces in that ribbon cable. You can't tear it, then tape it or press it back down and expect it to work. There is no place on that cable where a tear is "safe". You can't replace it either. Get a new touchscreen.
*This one really sucks. If the touchscreen worked before you closed up the iPad mini, then stopped when you glued it down, you probably pinched the ribbon cable with a tight fold. If you remove the touchscreen without breaking it, you might be able to unpinch the cable and it'll come back to life, but most likely you've damaged the cable and you'll have to go get another touchscreen and start over. The last thing I do before closing up the touchscreen (I mean the very last thing, after the double -stick adhesive is in place and the camera-end is stuck down), is reach in with a pair of long tweezers, grab that touchscreen ribbon and "curl" or twist it so it doesn't get folded flat between the chassis and the screen.

Home
'''Home button doesn't work
Smart cover no longer detected

*Button
detected'''
* Button
ribbon cable not soldered well
*Touchscreen

* Touchscreen
ribbon not soldered to IC cable well (there are 8 pins dedicated to the button and smart cover sensors on there)
*If

* If
you purchased pieces on-line and bought a button ribbon cable, you might have noticed that there were $2 cables and $10 cables. Guess what, the cheap cables are missing the SMT parts which make the smart cover work. Most people apparently don't check that, or don't have a smart cover, or were happy that the rest of the touchscreen now works, and didn't want to look into why the smart cover no longer works.
 
Oh, there are so many other things that can go wrong. An open iPad is a fragile thing. Once closed up, they're pretty robust.
 
I am currently wondering why an iPad mini on my workbench that booted last week, has run down its battery and chimes every 30 seconds when I try to charge it. The screen remains blank and it doesn't appear to boot. There's no Apple icon, and it's not the backlight. I haven't tried to reset it yet.

Estatus:

open

Editado por: Jim Lewczyk ,

Texto:

I have to start with a question?
 
I've fixed about a dozen of these, the past few years (they've turned into an unprofitable hobby). There are a number of problems you can encounter after replacing your touchscreen/digitizer on an iPad mini or mini 2 (I haven't tried models 3 and 4 yet, and this does not apply to the full sized iPads).
 
Note: Always dry-fit the pieces before screwing and taping/gluing everything down. Always turn the power on and make sure everything works before closing up: power button, LCD, touchscreen, home button, volume buttons, sound, cameras, and, if you care, smart cover.
 
Also, keep all the broken parts until you've really completed the repair. There are bits and pieces on the touchscreen that you might not even notice until you find the replacement doesn't have everything.
 
Oh, and clean the old LCD well before closing up. You may be proud that it's fixed, and you did it, but at some point you'll be really annoyed at that thumbprint or bit of lint under the touchscreen that you could have cleaned up but didn't because you were in a hurry to call it "done". Actually I find this the most tedious part of process, as you almost always see another smudge underneath the touchscreen after it's closed up.
 
If you paid relatively more ($30-50) for a touchscreen, it should have everything on it, ready to install.
 
If you got the really cheap ($9) touchscreen, you need to transfer several bits from the old to the new screen:
* The
*The
camera alignment frame (use hair dryer heat to loosen)
* The

*The
home button assembly (frame, button, use hair dryer heat to loosen)
* The

*The
home button ribbon cable (unsolder it, don't peel or rip it off)
* The

*The
"IC cable", which solders to the new raw touchscreen cable (unsolder it)
* The

*The
cover magnets that grip a smart (or other) cover down (not to be confused with the smart cover sensors, which are on the button ribbon cable)
* The
*The
camera alignment frame (use hair dryer heat to loosen)
* The

*The
home button assembly (frame, button, use hair dryer heat to loosen)
* The

*The
home button ribbon cable (unsolder it, don't peel or rip it off)
* The

*The
"IC cable", which solders to the new raw touchscreen cable (unsolder it)
* The

*The
cover magnets that grip a smart (or other) cover down (not to be confused with the smart cover sensors, which are on the button ribbon cable)
 
Always clean thoroughly and use new double stick adhesive on the button frame. There's nothing more frustrating than a home button that becomes loose or floats around after you've closed things up. I sometimes resort to superglue in addition to the double stick adhesives if they're stubborn.
 
Here are some other problems you may encounter:
 
'''iPadiPad screen remains blank after repair'''
* Battery
repair

*Battery
connector not snapped into place
* LCD

*LCD
connector not snapped into place
* LCD
*LCD connector misaligned
* It

**It
is easy to misalign the LCD connector when it refuses to "snap" nicely into place. RetryRetry it, and try to be more careful. If you end up damaging the connector on the LCD ribbon cable, it becomes nearly impossible to align it properly and you'll never feel that satisfying "snap" into place. I mainly saw this when I tried to reuse one LCD in several different iPads in order to test them. I wore out that connector.
* iPad

*iPad
Mini needs to be reset (power and home button pressed for 15 seconds)
* Backlight

*Backlight
fuse has blown
* * A

**A
symptom of the a backlight failure is that you can actually see the contents of the screen in a strong light (direct sun or a bright lamp).
* * This

**This
can be caused by not unplugging the battery before unplugging the LCD.
* * Sometimes

**Sometimes
it just happens. I've had the fuse blow when it's been closed up and in use for months.
* * The

**The
"backlight fuse" is really a small inductor. It's difficult to reach and I usually just bridge across it with a fine wire rather than replace it. The "backlight IC" is just a large diode. It's even more difficult to reach and there isn't a quick and dirty fix, you have to replace it. I've only had to replace the backlight inductor once.

The screen shows the Apple Logo then goes blank -- Touchscreen not detected
*Ensure the connector is attached
*If you removed a lot of tape to perform the repair, make sure it's put back, you especially don't want to short the IC cable pins to the case.

*If you performed soldering to the IC cable, double check your soldering job.

iPad touchscreen has dead regions
'''iPadiPad screen remains blank after repair'''
* Battery
repair

*Battery
connector not snapped into place
* LCD

*LCD
connector not snapped into place
* LCD
*LCD connector misaligned
* It

**It
is easy to misalign the LCD connector when it refuses to "snap" nicely into place. RetryRetry it, and try to be more careful. If you end up damaging the connector on the LCD ribbon cable, it becomes nearly impossible to align it properly and you'll never feel that satisfying "snap" into place. I mainly saw this when I tried to reuse one LCD in several different iPads in order to test them. I wore out that connector.
* iPad

*iPad
Mini needs to be reset (power and home button pressed for 15 seconds)
* Backlight

*Backlight
fuse has blown
* * A

**A
symptom of the a backlight failure is that you can actually see the contents of the screen in a strong light (direct sun or a bright lamp).
* * This

**This
can be caused by not unplugging the battery before unplugging the LCD.
* * Sometimes

**Sometimes
it just happens. I've had the fuse blow when it's been closed up and in use for months.
* * The

**The
"backlight fuse" is really a small inductor. It's difficult to reach and I usually just bridge across it with a fine wire rather than replace it. The "backlight IC" is just a large diode. It's even more difficult to reach and there isn't a quick and dirty fix, you have to replace it. I've only had to replace the backlight inductor once.

The screen shows the Apple Logo then goes blank -- Touchscreen not detected
*Ensure the connector is attached
*If you removed a lot of tape to perform the repair, make sure it's put back, you especially don't want to short the IC cable pins to the case.

*If you performed soldering to the IC cable, double check your soldering job.

iPad touchscreen has dead regions
 
'''The screen shows*Poorly soldered connections to the Apple Logo then goes blank'''
* Touchscreen not detected
* Ensure the connector
IC cable.
**There are videos on youtube which show people soldering that IC cable with large, oversized soldering irons. They use lots of flux and clear irons. If your iron tip
is attached
* If
rough, or you removed a lot ofdidn't use enough flux, or you had to solder over and over to get it right, you may have damaged the extremely fine traces on the ribbon cable. You need decent magnification (inspection microscope) to even see the damage. You'll have to get another touchscreen and start over.
*Damaged ribbon cable
**There are almost 70 signal traces in that ribbon cable. You can't tear it, then
tape it or press it back down and expect it to performwork. There is no place on that cable where a tear is "safe". You can't replace it either. Get a new touchscreen.
*This one really sucks. If
the repair, make sure it's put back,touchscreen worked before you especially don't wantclosed up the iPad mini, then stopped when you glued it down, you probably pinched the ribbon cable with a tight fold. If you remove the touchscreen without breaking it, you might be able to shortunpinch the IC cable pinsand it'll come back to life, but most likely you've damaged the case.
* If you performed soldering
cable and you'll have to go get another touchscreen and start over. The last thing I do before closing up the touchscreen (I mean the very last thing, after the IC cable, double check your soldering job. -stick adhesive is in place and the camera-end is stuck down), is reach in with a pair of long tweezers, grab that touchscreen ribbon and "curl" or twist it so it doesn't get folded flat between the chassis and the screen.
'''The screen shows*Poorly soldered connections to the Apple Logo then goes blank'''
* Touchscreen not detected
* Ensure the connector
IC cable.
**There are videos on youtube which show people soldering that IC cable with large, oversized soldering irons. They use lots of flux and clear irons. If your iron tip
is attached
* If
rough, or you removed a lot ofdidn't use enough flux, or you had to solder over and over to get it right, you may have damaged the extremely fine traces on the ribbon cable. You need decent magnification (inspection microscope) to even see the damage. You'll have to get another touchscreen and start over.
*Damaged ribbon cable
**There are almost 70 signal traces in that ribbon cable. You can't tear it, then
tape it or press it back down and expect it to performwork. There is no place on that cable where a tear is "safe". You can't replace it either. Get a new touchscreen.
*This one really sucks. If
the repair, make sure it's put back,touchscreen worked before you especially don't wantclosed up the iPad mini, then stopped when you glued it down, you probably pinched the ribbon cable with a tight fold. If you remove the touchscreen without breaking it, you might be able to shortunpinch the IC cable pinsand it'll come back to life, but most likely you've damaged the case.
* If you performed soldering
cable and you'll have to go get another touchscreen and start over. The last thing I do before closing up the touchscreen (I mean the very last thing, after the IC cable, double check your soldering job. -stick adhesive is in place and the camera-end is stuck down), is reach in with a pair of long tweezers, grab that touchscreen ribbon and "curl" or twist it so it doesn't get folded flat between the chassis and the screen.
 
'''iPad touchscreen has dead regions'''
* Poorly soldered connections to the IC cable -- There are videos online which show people soldering that IC cable with large, oversized soldering irons. They use lots of flux and clean irons. If your iron tip is rough, or you didn't use enough flux, or you had to solder over and over to get it right, you may have damaged the extremely fine traces on the ribbon cable. You need decent magnification (inspection microscope) to even see the damage. You'll have to get another touchscreen and start over.
* Damaged ribbon cable - There are almost 70 signal traces in that ribbon cable. You can't tear it, then tape it or press it back down and expect it to work. There is
Home button doesn't work
Smart cover
no place on that cable where a tear is "safe". You can't replace it either. Get a new touchscreen.
* This one really sucks. If the touchscreen worked before you closed up the iPad mini, then stopped when you glued it down, you probably pinched the ribbon cable with a tight fold. If you remove the touchscreen without breaking it, you might be able to unpinch the cable and it'll come back to life, but most likely you've damaged the cable and you'll have to go get another touchscreen and start over. The last thing I do before closing up the touchscreen (I mean the very last thing, after the double -stick adhesive is in place and the camera-end is stuck down), is reach in with a pair of long tweezers, grab that touchscreen ribbon and "curl" or twist it so it doesn't get folded flat between the chassis and the screen.
longer detected
'''iPad touchscreen has dead regions'''
* Poorly soldered connections to the IC cable -- There are videos online which show people soldering that IC cable with large, oversized soldering irons. They use lots of flux and clean irons. If your iron tip is rough, or you didn't use enough flux, or you had to solder over and over to get it right, you may have damaged the extremely fine traces on the ribbon cable. You need decent magnification (inspection microscope) to even see the damage. You'll have to get another touchscreen and start over.
* Damaged ribbon cable - There are almost 70 signal traces in that ribbon cable. You can't tear it, then tape it or press it back down and expect it to work. There is
Home button doesn't work
Smart cover
no place on that cable where a tear is "safe". You can't replace it either. Get a new touchscreen.
* This one really sucks. If the touchscreen worked before you closed up the iPad mini, then stopped when you glued it down, you probably pinched the ribbon cable with a tight fold. If you remove the touchscreen without breaking it, you might be able to unpinch the cable and it'll come back to life, but most likely you've damaged the cable and you'll have to go get another touchscreen and start over. The last thing I do before closing up the touchscreen (I mean the very last thing, after the double -stick adhesive is in place and the camera-end is stuck down), is reach in with a pair of long tweezers, grab that touchscreen ribbon and "curl" or twist it so it doesn't get folded flat between the chassis and the screen.
longer detected
 
'''Home button doesn't work
Smart cover no longer detected'''
* Button
*Button ribbon cable not soldered well
* Touchscreen

*Touchscreen
ribbon not soldered to IC cable well (there are 8 pins dedicated to the button and smart cover sensors on there)
* If

*If
you purchased pieces on-line and bought a button ribbon cable, you might have noticed that there were $2 cables and $10 cables. Guess what, the cheap cables are missing the SMT parts which make the smart cover work. Most people apparently don't check that, or don't have a smart cover, or were happy that the rest of the touchscreen now works, and didn't want to look into why the smart cover no longer works.
'''Home button doesn't work
Smart cover no longer detected'''
* Button
*Button ribbon cable not soldered well
* Touchscreen

*Touchscreen
ribbon not soldered to IC cable well (there are 8 pins dedicated to the button and smart cover sensors on there)
* If

*If
you purchased pieces on-line and bought a button ribbon cable, you might have noticed that there were $2 cables and $10 cables. Guess what, the cheap cables are missing the SMT parts which make the smart cover work. Most people apparently don't check that, or don't have a smart cover, or were happy that the rest of the touchscreen now works, and didn't want to look into why the smart cover no longer works.
 
Oh, there are so many other things that can go wrong. An open iPad is a fragile thing. Once closed up, they're pretty robust.
 
I am currently wondering why an iPad mini on my workbench that booted last week, has run down its battery and chimes every 30 seconds when I try to charge it. The screen remains blank and it doesn't appear to boot. There's no Apple icon, and it's not the backlight. I haven't tried to reset it yet.

Estatus:

open

Editado por: Jim Lewczyk ,

Texto:

I've fixed about a dozen of these, the past few years (they've turned into an unprofitable hobby). There are a number of problems you can encounter after replacing your touchscreen/digitizer on an iPad mini or mini 2 (I haven't tried models 3 and 4 yet, and this does not apply to the full sized iPads).
 
Note: Always dry-fit the pieces before screwing and taping/gluing everything down. Always turn the power on and make sure everything works before closing up: power button, LCD, touchscreen, home button, volume buttons, sound, cameras, and, if you care, smart cover.
 
Also, keep all the broken parts until you've really completed the repair. There are bits and pieces on the touchscreen that you might not even notice until you find the replacement doesn't have everything.
 
Oh, and clean the old LCD well before closing up. You may be proud that it's fixed, and you did it, but at some point you'll be really annoyed at that thumbprint or bit of lint under the touchscreen that you could have cleaned up but didn't because you were in a hurry to call it "done". Actually I find this the most tedious part of process, as you almost always see another smudge underneath the touchscreen after it's closed up.
 
If you paid relatively more ($30-50) for a touchscreen, it should have everything on it, ready to install.
 
If you got the really cheap ($9) touchscreen, you need to transfer several bits from the old to the new screen:
* The camera alignment frame (use hair dryer heat to loosen)
* The home button assembly (frame, button, use hair dryer heat to loosen)
* The home button ribbon cable (unsolder it, don't peel or rip it off)
* The "IC cable", which solders to the new raw touchscreen cable (unsolder it)
* The cover magnets that grip a smart (or other) cover down (not to be confused with the smart cover sensors, which are on the button ribbon cable)
 
The camera alignment frame (use hair dryer heat to loosen)

The home button assembly (frame, button, use hair dryer heat to loosen)

The home button ribbon cable (unsolder it, don't peel or rip it off)

The "IC cable", which solders to the new raw touchscreen cable (unsolder it)

The cover magnets that grip a smart (or other) cover down (not to be confused with the smart cover

sensors, which are on the button ribbon cable)

Always
Always clean thoroughly and use new double stick adhesive on the button frame. There's nothing

more
more frustrating than a home button that becomes loose or floats around after you've closed things

up
up. I sometimes resort to superglue in addition to the double stick adhesives if they're stubborn.
The camera alignment frame (use hair dryer heat to loosen)

The home button assembly (frame, button, use hair dryer heat to loosen)

The home button ribbon cable (unsolder it, don't peel or rip it off)

The "IC cable", which solders to the new raw touchscreen cable (unsolder it)

The cover magnets that grip a smart (or other) cover down (not to be confused with the smart cover

sensors, which are on the button ribbon cable)

Always
Always clean thoroughly and use new double stick adhesive on the button frame. There's nothing

more
more frustrating than a home button that becomes loose or floats around after you've closed things

up
up. I sometimes resort to superglue in addition to the double stick adhesives if they're stubborn.
 
Here are some other problems you may encounter:
 
iPad'''iPad screen remains blank after repair:

-
repair'''
*
Battery connector not snapped into place

-

*
LCD connector not snapped into place

-

*
LCD connector misaligned

-

*
It is easy to misalign the LCD connector when it refuses to "snap" nicely into place.

Retry
Retry it, and try to be more careful. If you end up damaging the connector on the

LCD
LCD ribbon cable, it becomes nearly impossible to align it properly and you'll never

feel
feel that satisfying "snap" into place. I mainly saw this when I tried to reuse one LCD

in
in several different iPads in order to test them. I wore out that connector.

-

*
iPad Mini needs to be reset (power and home button pressed for 15 seconds)

-

*
Backlight fuse has blown

-

* *
A symptom of the a backlight failure is that you can actually see the contents of the

screen
screen in a strong light (direct sun or a bright lamp).

-

* *
This can be caused by not unplugging the battery before unplugging the LCD.

-

* *
Sometimes it just happens. I've had the fuse blow when it's been closed up and in

use
use for months.

-

* *
The "backlight fuse" is really a small inductor. It's difficult to reach and I usually just

bridge
bridge across it with a fine wire rather than replace it. The "backlight IC" is just a

large
large diode. It's even more difficult to reach and there isn't a quick and dirty fix,

you
you have to replace it. I've only had to replace the backlight inductor once.

The screen shows the Apple Logo then goes blank

- Touchscreen not detected

- Ensure the connector is attached

- If you removed a lot of tape to perform the repair, make sure it's put back, you

especially don't want to short the IC cable pins to the case.

- If you performed soldering to the IC cable, double check your soldering job.

iPad touchscreen has dead regions

- Poorly soldered connections to the IC cable.

- There are videos on youtube which show people soldering that IC cable with

large, oversized soldering irons. They use lots of flux and clear irons. If your

iron tip is rough, or you didn't use enough flux, or you had to solder over and

over to get it right, you may have damaged the extremely fine traces on the

ribbon cable. You need decent magnification (inspection microscope) to even

see the damage. You'll have to get another touchscreen and start over.

- Damaged ribbon cable

- There are almost 70 signal traces in that ribbon cable. You can't tear it, then

tape it or press it back down and expect it to work. There is no place on that

cable where a tear is "safe". You can't replace it either. Get a new touchscreen.

- This one really sucks. If the touchscreen worked before you closed up the

iPad mini, then stopped when you glued it down, you probably pinched the

ribbon cable with a tight fold. If you remove the touchscreen without breaking

it, you might be able to unpinch the cable and it'll come back to life, but most

likely you've damaged the cable and you'll have to go get another touchscreen

and start over. The last thing I do before closing up the touchscreen (I mean

the very last thing, after the double -stick adhesive is in place and the camera-

end is stuck down), is reach in with a pair of long tweezers, grab that touchscreen

ribbon and "curl" or twist it so it doesn't get folded flat between the chassis

and the screen.

Home button doesn't work

Smart cover no longer detected

- Button ribbon cable not soldered well

- Touchscreen ribbon not soldered to IC cable well (there are 8 pins dedicated to

the button and smart cover sensors on there)

- If you purchased pieces on-line and bought a button ribbon cable, you might have

noticed that there were $2 cables and $10 cables. Guess what, the cheap cables

are missing the SMT parts which make the smart cover work. Most people
iPad'''iPad screen remains blank after repair:

-
repair'''
*
Battery connector not snapped into place

-

*
LCD connector not snapped into place

-

*
LCD connector misaligned

-

*
It is easy to misalign the LCD connector when it refuses to "snap" nicely into place.

Retry
Retry it, and try to be more careful. If you end up damaging the connector on the

LCD
LCD ribbon cable, it becomes nearly impossible to align it properly and you'll never

feel
feel that satisfying "snap" into place. I mainly saw this when I tried to reuse one LCD

in
in several different iPads in order to test them. I wore out that connector.

-

*
iPad Mini needs to be reset (power and home button pressed for 15 seconds)

-

*
Backlight fuse has blown

-

* *
A symptom of the a backlight failure is that you can actually see the contents of the

screen
screen in a strong light (direct sun or a bright lamp).

-

* *
This can be caused by not unplugging the battery before unplugging the LCD.

-

* *
Sometimes it just happens. I've had the fuse blow when it's been closed up and in

use
use for months.

-

* *
The "backlight fuse" is really a small inductor. It's difficult to reach and I usually just

bridge
bridge across it with a fine wire rather than replace it. The "backlight IC" is just a

large
large diode. It's even more difficult to reach and there isn't a quick and dirty fix,

you
you have to replace it. I've only had to replace the backlight inductor once.

The screen shows the Apple Logo then goes blank

- Touchscreen not detected

- Ensure the connector is attached

- If you removed a lot of tape to perform the repair, make sure it's put back, you

especially don't want to short the IC cable pins to the case.

- If you performed soldering to the IC cable, double check your soldering job.

iPad touchscreen has dead regions

- Poorly soldered connections to the IC cable.

- There are videos on youtube which show people soldering that IC cable with

large, oversized soldering irons. They use lots of flux and clear irons. If your

iron tip is rough, or you didn't use enough flux, or you had to solder over and

over to get it right, you may have damaged the extremely fine traces on the

ribbon cable. You need decent magnification (inspection microscope) to even

see the damage. You'll have to get another touchscreen and start over.

- Damaged ribbon cable

- There are almost 70 signal traces in that ribbon cable. You can't tear it, then

tape it or press it back down and expect it to work. There is no place on that

cable where a tear is "safe". You can't replace it either. Get a new touchscreen.

- This one really sucks. If the touchscreen worked before you closed up the

iPad mini, then stopped when you glued it down, you probably pinched the

ribbon cable with a tight fold. If you remove the touchscreen without breaking

it, you might be able to unpinch the cable and it'll come back to life, but most

likely you've damaged the cable and you'll have to go get another touchscreen

and start over. The last thing I do before closing up the touchscreen (I mean

the very last thing, after the double -stick adhesive is in place and the camera-

end is stuck down), is reach in with a pair of long tweezers, grab that touchscreen

ribbon and "curl" or twist it so it doesn't get folded flat between the chassis

and the screen.

Home button doesn't work

Smart cover no longer detected

- Button ribbon cable not soldered well

- Touchscreen ribbon not soldered to IC cable well (there are 8 pins dedicated to

the button and smart cover sensors on there)

- If you purchased pieces on-line and bought a button ribbon cable, you might have

noticed that there were $2 cables and $10 cables. Guess what, the cheap cables

are missing the SMT parts which make the smart cover work. Most people
 
apparently don't check that, or don't have'''The screen shows the Apple Logo then goes blank'''
* Touchscreen not detected
* Ensure the connector is attached
* If you removed
a smart cover, or were happy thatlot of tape to perform the repair, make sure it's put back, you especially don't want to short the IC cable pins to the case.
* If you performed soldering to the IC cable, double check your soldering job.
apparently don't check that, or don't have'''The screen shows the Apple Logo then goes blank'''
* Touchscreen not detected
* Ensure the connector is attached
* If you removed
a smart cover, or were happy thatlot of tape to perform the repair, make sure it's put back, you especially don't want to short the IC cable pins to the case.
* If you performed soldering to the IC cable, double check your soldering job.
 
rest'''iPad touchscreen has dead regions'''
* Poorly soldered connections to the IC cable -- There are videos online which show people soldering that IC cable with large, oversized soldering irons. They use lots
of flux and clean irons. If your iron tip is rough, or you didn't use enough flux, or you had to solder over and over to get it right, you may have damaged the extremely fine traces on the ribbon cable. You need decent magnification (inspection microscope) to even see the damage. You'll have to get another touchscreen now works, and didn't wantstart over.
* Damaged ribbon cable - There are almost 70 signal traces in that ribbon cable. You can't tear it, then tape it or press it back down and expect it
to look into whywork. There is no place on that cable where a tear is "safe". You can't replace it either. Get a new touchscreen.
* This one really sucks. If the touchscreen worked before you closed up the iPad mini, then stopped when you glued it down, you probably pinched the ribbon cable with a tight fold. If you remove the touchscreen without breaking it, you might be able to unpinch the cable and it'll come back to life, but most likely you've damaged the cable and you'll have to go get another touchscreen and start over. The last thing I do before closing up the touchscreen (I mean the very last thing, after the double -stick adhesive is in place and the camera-end is stuck down), is reach in with a pair of long tweezers, grab that touchscreen ribbon and "curl" or twist it so it doesn't get folded flat between the chassis and
the smartscreen.
rest'''iPad touchscreen has dead regions'''
* Poorly soldered connections to the IC cable -- There are videos online which show people soldering that IC cable with large, oversized soldering irons. They use lots
of flux and clean irons. If your iron tip is rough, or you didn't use enough flux, or you had to solder over and over to get it right, you may have damaged the extremely fine traces on the ribbon cable. You need decent magnification (inspection microscope) to even see the damage. You'll have to get another touchscreen now works, and didn't wantstart over.
* Damaged ribbon cable - There are almost 70 signal traces in that ribbon cable. You can't tear it, then tape it or press it back down and expect it
to look into whywork. There is no place on that cable where a tear is "safe". You can't replace it either. Get a new touchscreen.
* This one really sucks. If the touchscreen worked before you closed up the iPad mini, then stopped when you glued it down, you probably pinched the ribbon cable with a tight fold. If you remove the touchscreen without breaking it, you might be able to unpinch the cable and it'll come back to life, but most likely you've damaged the cable and you'll have to go get another touchscreen and start over. The last thing I do before closing up the touchscreen (I mean the very last thing, after the double -stick adhesive is in place and the camera-end is stuck down), is reach in with a pair of long tweezers, grab that touchscreen ribbon and "curl" or twist it so it doesn't get folded flat between the chassis and
the smartscreen.
 
cover'''Home button doesn't work
Smart cover no longer detected'''
* Button ribbon cable not soldered well
* Touchscreen ribbon not soldered to IC cable well (there are 8 pins dedicated to the button and smart cover sensors on there)
* If you purchased pieces on-line and bought a button ribbon cable, you might have noticed that there were $2 cables and $10 cables. Guess what, the cheap cables are missing the SMT parts which make the smart cover work. Most people apparently don't check that, or don't have a smart cover, or were happy that the rest of the touchscreen now works, and didn't want to look into why the smart cover
no longer works.
cover'''Home button doesn't work
Smart cover no longer detected'''
* Button ribbon cable not soldered well
* Touchscreen ribbon not soldered to IC cable well (there are 8 pins dedicated to the button and smart cover sensors on there)
* If you purchased pieces on-line and bought a button ribbon cable, you might have noticed that there were $2 cables and $10 cables. Guess what, the cheap cables are missing the SMT parts which make the smart cover work. Most people apparently don't check that, or don't have a smart cover, or were happy that the rest of the touchscreen now works, and didn't want to look into why the smart cover
no longer works.
 
Oh, there are so many other things that can go wrong. An open iPad is a fragile thing. Once closed up, they're pretty robust.
 
I am currently wondering why an iPad mini on my workbench that booted last week, has run down its battery and chimes every 30 seconds when I try to charge it. The screen remains blank and it doesn't appear to boot. There's no Apple icon, and it's not the backlight. I haven't tried to reset it yet.

Estatus:

open

Aporte original por: Jim Lewczyk ,

Texto:

I've fixed about a dozen of these, the past few years (they've turned into an unprofitable hobby). There are a number of problems you can encounter after replacing your touchscreen/digitizer on an iPad mini or mini 2 (I haven't tried models 3 and 4 yet, and this does not apply to the full sized iPads).

Note: Always dry-fit the pieces before screwing and taping/gluing everything down.  Always turn the power on and make sure everything works before closing up: power button, LCD, touchscreen, home button, volume buttons, sound, cameras, and, if you care, smart cover.

Also, keep all the broken parts until you've really completed the repair.  There are bits and pieces on the touchscreen that you might not even notice until you find the replacement doesn't have everything.

Oh, and clean the old LCD well before closing up.  You may be proud that it's fixed, and you did it, but at some point you'll be really annoyed at that thumbprint or bit of lint under the touchscreen that you could have cleaned up but didn't  because you were in a hurry to call it "done".  Actually I find this the most tedious part of process, as you almost always see another smudge underneath the touchscreen after it's closed up.

If you paid relatively more ($30-50) for a touchscreen, it should have everything on it, ready to install.

If you got the really cheap ($9) touchscreen, you need to transfer several bits from the old to the new screen:

The camera alignment frame (use hair dryer heat to loosen)

The home button assembly (frame, button, use hair dryer heat to loosen)

The home button ribbon cable (unsolder it, don't peel or rip it off)

The "IC cable", which solders to the new raw touchscreen cable (unsolder it)

The cover magnets that grip a smart (or other) cover down (not to be confused with the smart cover

sensors, which are on the button ribbon cable)

Always clean thoroughly and use new double stick adhesive on the button frame.  There's nothing

more frustrating than a home button that becomes loose or floats around after you've closed things

up.  I sometimes resort to superglue in addition to the double stick adhesives if they're stubborn.

Here are some other problems you may encounter:

iPad screen remains blank after repair:

- Battery connector not snapped into place

- LCD connector not snapped into place

- LCD connector misaligned

- It is easy to misalign the LCD connector when it refuses to "snap" nicely into place.

Retry it, and try to be more careful.  If you end up damaging the connector on the

LCD ribbon cable, it becomes nearly impossible to align it properly and you'll never

feel that satisfying "snap" into place.  I mainly saw this when I tried to reuse one LCD

in several different iPads in order to test them.  I wore out that connector.

- iPad Mini needs to be reset (power and home button pressed for 15 seconds)

- Backlight fuse has blown

- A symptom of the a backlight failure is that you can actually see the contents of the

screen in a strong light (direct sun or a bright lamp).

- This can be caused by not unplugging the battery before unplugging the LCD.

- Sometimes it just happens.  I've had the fuse blow when it's been closed up and in

use for months.

- The "backlight fuse" is really a small inductor.  It's difficult to reach and I usually just

bridge across it with a fine wire rather than replace it.  The "backlight IC" is just a

large diode.  It's even more difficult to reach and there isn't a quick and dirty fix,

you have to replace it.  I've only had to replace the backlight inductor once.

The screen shows the Apple Logo then goes blank

- Touchscreen not detected

- Ensure the connector is attached

- If you removed a lot of tape to perform the repair, make sure it's put back, you

especially don't want to short the IC cable pins to the case.

- If you performed soldering to the IC cable, double check your soldering job.

iPad touchscreen has dead regions

- Poorly soldered connections to the IC cable.

-  There are videos on youtube which show people soldering that IC cable with

large, oversized soldering irons.  They use lots of flux and clear irons.  If your

iron tip is rough, or you didn't use enough flux, or you had to solder over and

over to get it right, you may have damaged the extremely fine traces on the

ribbon cable.  You need decent magnification (inspection microscope) to even

see the damage.  You'll have to get another touchscreen and start over.

- Damaged ribbon cable

- There are almost 70 signal traces in that ribbon cable.  You can't tear it, then

tape it or press it back down and expect it to work.  There is no place on that

cable where a tear is "safe".   You can't replace it either.  Get a new touchscreen.

- This one really sucks.  If the touchscreen worked before you closed up the

iPad mini, then stopped when you glued it down, you probably pinched the

ribbon cable with a tight fold.  If you remove the touchscreen without breaking

it, you might be able to unpinch the cable and it'll come back to life, but most

likely you've damaged the cable and you'll have to go get another touchscreen

and start over.  The last thing I do before closing up the touchscreen (I mean

the very last thing, after the double -stick adhesive is in place and the camera-

end is stuck down), is reach in with a pair of long tweezers, grab that touchscreen

ribbon and "curl" or twist it so it doesn't get folded flat between the chassis

and the screen.

Home button doesn't work

Smart cover no longer detected

- Button ribbon cable not soldered well

- Touchscreen ribbon not soldered to IC cable well (there are 8 pins dedicated to

the button and smart cover sensors on there)

- If you purchased pieces on-line and bought a button ribbon cable, you might have

noticed that there were $2 cables and $10 cables.  Guess what, the cheap cables

are missing the SMT parts which make the smart cover work.  Most people

apparently don't check that, or don't have a smart cover, or were happy that the

rest of the touchscreen now works, and didn't want to look into why the smart

cover no longer works.

Oh, there are so many other things that can go wrong.  An open iPad is a fragile thing.  Once closed up, they're pretty robust.

I am currently wondering why an iPad mini on my workbench that booted last week, has run down its battery and chimes every 30 seconds when I try to charge it.  The screen remains blank and it doesn't appear to boot.  There's no Apple icon, and it's not the backlight.  I haven't tried to reset it yet.

Estatus:

open