⟐ Answered junio 30, 2025 at 7:13 GMT-7

⟐ Answered agosto 12, 2025 at 4:50 GMT-7

⟐ Answered marzo 30, 2023 at 16:06 GMT-7

At this point I am past my warranty and have already decided to take the controller apart to see if I could locate the problem myself. The levers themelves leading to the tactile switches look to be identical on either side leading me to believe that they are not responsible for the issue. My question then becomes what is the likliehood that it is the tactile switch itself that is the problem? Is there a possibility it is anything else that could be the culprit? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

⟐ Commented julio 30, 2022 at 22:14 GMT-7

⟐ Answered marzo 09, 2024 at 15:35 GMT-7

Everything else works superb, except for the triggers.

Is there any way I could fix this? I’ve tried taking the bumpers off and on, tried forcing it back, plugged it into my computer and gently put the back panel on, and I do not see a visible way to adjust the magnets.

This is also my first time doing too, so I guess I’m making progress.

⟐ Answered agosto 26, 2024 at 12:42 GMT-7

⟐ Commented marzo 10, 2023 at 3:14 GMT-7

I’ve read that you must hold down the sync button to pair it to another device. I have tried prying the button out a bit, as suggested in many videos, but it will only stay up while I am holding it with a flat-head screwdriver. I am not sure if the button even works anymore, and it has been scuffed a lot from repeated attempts of prying it.

After temporarily prying up the button and then pressing it, the controller doesn’t seem to recognize it. If the button has been jammed, does the controller think it is being constantly held down?

Also, I know that when pairing a controller for the first time, you only need to hold down the Xbox home button to immediately begin the pairing process. So, to avoid using the sync button, is there any way to “reset“ the controller as if it has never been paired so I can use the Xbox home button instead?

Thanks in advance.

⟐ Commented marzo 17, 2025 at 11:20 GMT-7

⟐ Commented enero 01, 2022 at 15:33 GMT-7

I've got a problem with Xbox One S controller (model 1708).

Device can run from about 30 seconds to 2 minutes, then turns off. It heated up under left analog, so I opened it and it seems that the IC named IACMG left to the D-Pad generates the heat.

I discovered that capacitor C20 next to that IC is burned and act like a wire, so I desoldered it and put other capacitor, although I don't know the capacity of C20, so I inserted 1uF as I only had these (terrible idea, but I thought it may be better than burned cap). After that controller acts the same way it acted.

(U3 is the IACMG)

I tried to find datasheet of IACMG on the web, unsuccessfully haven't found anything. I assume it must be some IC from power, as on the opposite layer of PCB there is the same IC next to inductors. Maybe somewhere there is some short-circuit that causes overheating, but I don't know where to look for it as I don't know what pins from that IC are for.

Controller works fine, it connects via USB or Bluetooth, but only for a while.

Someone had similar problem? Or someone know where to find information about IACMG?

And sorry for my English.

⟐ Commented diciembre 08, 2025 at 12:45 GMT-7

I desoldered the right stick, turned on the controller and even physically without the stick it was still drifting. Then I installed a new analog (entire new unit not just the potentiometers), and it still drifts like if we were in the 90s.

Send help, no visual problems on the board, however the main motor red cable was desoldered when i opened it up, but i dont see how it may affect the controller in any serious way. Btw the controller emits rather quiet buzzing sound tho I heard it’s normal.

⟐ Answer accepted mayo 02, 2023 at 6:07 GMT-7

⟐ Commented mayo 30, 2022 at 14:34 GMT-7

I have taken apart the controller already, and tried to replace the circular sensors that are held within the green portions of the joystick module on the motherboard. I’ve even turned on the controller with the sensors completely removed, and there is still a left input on the joystick.

I have a replacement module, but I’m unable to get the current one off since my soldering iron doesn’t seem to be hot enough to melt the contacts. Is it a lost cause? Should I just get a new controller?

UPDATE: I was able to replace the joystick module, but nothing had changed. There is still a full leftward input on the right joystick. The new module is working, as I’m able to see inputs from the joystick as I move it around, but only up, down, and press. So I’m guessing it has less to do with the actual module and something a bit deeper.

⟐ Commented junio 28, 2019 at 22:51 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted mayo 01, 2018 at 13:50 GMT-7