Introducción
Reemplaza una pantalla rota o defectuosa.
Qué necesitas
-
-
Retira los dos tornillos siguientes:
-
Un tornillo Phillips n.º 00 de cabeza grande cerca del conector para auriculares.
-
Un tornillo Phillips n.° 00 con una cabeza más pequeña cerca del costado del iPod. Este tornillo se tira fácilmente, así que asegúrate de presionar firmemente el destornillador.
-
-
-
-
Usa un spudger para desconectar el cable del conector de auriculares de la placa lógica. Debe shacer palanca con cuidado en el conector hacia (o hacia arriba, si lo desea, el conector es como bloques de construcción LEGO®) en la parte delantera del iPod hasta que se suelte de la placa lógica.
-
Consejo especial para el reensamblaje: empuja el conector hacia adentro hasta que esté sobre el conector correspondiente de la placa lógica. Luego inserta una herramienta delgada sobre el conector y empújala hacia abajo sobre el conector de la placa lógica.
-
-
-
Usa un spudger para levantar suavemente la batería de la parte posterior de la pantalla. Ten cuidado de no ejercer demasiada presión sobre la pantalla con tu spudger.
-
-
-
Usa un spudger de metal para hacer palanca con cuidado en el soporte de metal de la parte posterior de la pantalla. Asegúrate de sacar solo el soporte y no el protector transparente en la parte posterior de la pantalla. Al trabajar desde el interior de la pantalla, no podrás levantar accidentalmente el protector de plástico transparente.
-
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Cancelar: No complete esta guía.
77 personas más completaron esta guía.
Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:
100%
Estos traductores nos están ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›
10 comentarios
I also had a white screen. I emailed ifixit support and Brady Cabe suggested I reseat the display connector. That did it!
One hint: when you reverse the steps, you will have to reinstall the top bezel but you don't have to completely reassemble the bottom in order to test it. The earphone plug can be left hanging out (avoiding wear and tear on the fragile ribbon cable) as well as the metal brace and the three screws that hold everything together at the bottom - that reduces the possibility of stripping the screws. In my case, I did strip one of the bottom screws: the screen was broken in a car accident that also bent the case enough to make it hard to get to one of the teeny tiny screws. Even though I stripped that one, I was able to get it out by turning it with a (tiny) straight blade screwdriver: there was enough purchase for that even though the head of the screw does not have much material left.
I found that a 000 Phillips screwdriver worked FAR better than the 00 for all of the screws. Also, the one I repaired had a surprising amount of adhesive holding the battery down. The square end of the plastic spudger worked well to separate the battery from the rest of the internals allowing it to be rotated down and out of the way.
No success here. I could not figure out how the black retainer worked in order to release the ribbon cable for the display. I ended up breaking it. I tried to put it back together anyway to see if there was sufficient contact to make it work, but evidently not. Oh well, a $50 lesson. One other tool that is needed here is a jeweler's magnifying glass. Magnified pics in these instructions would also be a benefit. Also, can someone tell me how you're supposed to get that one recessed screw back in place?
Spit on the tip of my phillips screwdriver holds that tiny screw on until I can get it started in the hole
I also had a white screen, followed the guide step by step, made the repair easy. I do agre with one of the other comments, a 000 phillips screwdriver worked way way better than the 00.
