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Siga los pasos de esta guía para reemplazar la placa lógica en un iPhone 6s.

Es importante tener en cuenta que la placa lógica de cada iPhone y el sensor de huella dactilar Touch ID se emparejan en fábrica, por lo que reemplazar la placa lógica desactivará Touch ID a menos también instalará un botón de inicio de reemplazo que se haya emparejado correctamente con su nueva lógica tablero.

También puede usar esta guía como referencia para reemplazar las pegatinas de escudo EMI de la placa lógica '' '.

  1. reemplazo placa lógica iphone, Tornillos Pentalobe: paso 1, imagen 1 de 1
    • Antes de desarmar su iPhone, descarga la batería por debajo del 25%. Una batería de litio-ion cargada puede generar fuego o explotar si es perforada accidentalmente.

    • Apaga tu iPhone antes de empezar a desarmar.

    • Remueve los dos tornillos Pentalobe P2 de 3.4 mm que se encuentran cerca del conector Lightning en el borde inferior de su iPhone.

    Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

    Janet Monaghen - Contestar

    @beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

    alexanderbrix1987 - Contestar

    Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

    Keith Hockenbeck - Contestar

    Is it ok to replace the battery if the phone screen is broken?

    Reem - Contestar

    Of course! As long as the screen and battery are disconnected from the motherboard, you can replace anything!

    Charles Bejarano -

    is it possible to change my battery on my iphone 6s and use a battery that has been already used in another 6s

    morgan durnford - Contestar

    Yeah it would work, but if the battery heath on the 2nd battery is bad, just get a new one.

    Charles Bejarano -

    @moe6802 Removing the battery can damage it, and it shouldn’t be used afterward. It may seem fine, but even minor battery damage can lead to a fire hazard. Not worth it for such a cheap part. If you need a battery, just get a new one.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you discharge a battery? Do you just let the battery drain or is there something less time consuming that you can do?

    Matthew Petts - Contestar

    There is no easy way to discharge the battery in “less time”. Perhaps the fastest way is to play a visually-complex modern game or otherwise make your phone do a lot of work.

    Lance J -

    So my phone screen is completely black causing me to see nothing that is on my screen. And the battery is above 25%, near 100%. What do I do??

    Jessica I - Contestar

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Seizure Salad -

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Seizure Salad - Contestar

    I can’t the screws with the P2, seems that the screws are stuck, what can i do?

    Alberto Jabiles - Contestar

    My kit came with 3 screws. Are those to replace these 2 P2 screws? And what’s the third one for?

    Daniel Morse - Contestar

    If it came with 3 screws, then it’s an extra one just in case if a replacement screw gets lost.

    Charles Bejarano -

    My display is cracked/broken and not functioning. The slide bar doesn’t work. How do I shut down my phone?

    Timothy Huss - Contestar

    i have replaced several ipod batteries and laptop work, but these screws seem to loose but do not come out. how am i to remove them.shake the iphone?it seems the ioen is not in my kit, is that how to remove them?

    this seems idiotic but i remember some other system magnets that firt make your screws easier to keep, but this might be changed….any video? this seems 1st step blues!!!!

    makinfilms - Contestar

    never ind ishook it… is that in the guide?….iopener is not in the kit……never was before is this an upsell? do i skip it? i dont have it

    makinfilms - Contestar

    My screws aren’t coming out either. I’ve loosened them, but they aren’t coming out. I’ve shaken the phone, given it some slight bangs…nothing.

    Jesse Fisher -

    The following info is not given until step 21 in the instructions, and probably too late at that.

    DO NOT disconnect or reconnect any of the cables in this device until the battery itself has been disconnected!

    Don’t skip that step, intending to do it at the end, as you may damage the phone.

    ffissk - Contestar

    2 thoughts:

    1) Really? Steps 14-17 are about disconnecting the battery first, and step 17 notes “so it doesn’t get reconnected while you work.” How’d you get to step 21 and miss 14-17?

    2) These pages are user-editable. (Probably (hopefully) “curated” by iFixit staff.) You should add a warning to step 17 (or step 24).

    Bass Clef -


    BEFORE YOU SNEEZE them into oblivion, or under the refrigerator (which is the same in many houses)

    MAY I suggest:

    1) Obtain:

    — a piece of paper, such as normal printer paper (not too much writing on one side)

    — a piece of tape, not too sticky, like masking tape (duct tape would be bad)

    ——— 1-1.5 inches (2.5-4 cm) wide

    ——— 6-8 inches (15-20 cm) long

    — a pencil (or pen)

    2) Put the paper on the side of your work area

    3) Lay the tape, sticky side up, on the paper

    4) Fold each end of the tape (~1 inch/2.5cm) back under itself, so the folded part faces the paper. Press the folded-back tape onto the paper

    You now have Sneeze & Wind Insurance for your tiny bits!

    5) Put the 2 pentalobes end down on the top end of the tape, next to each other. Push them a little onto the tape so they stick

    6) Use your pencil to note on the paper next to the screws: “1. Pentalobes”

    Now you may proceed with dissassembly, without worrying about telling the 1.5mm from the 1.6mm screws.

    or about sneezing!

    Bass Clef - Contestar

    My phone has a bad battery and a bad connector and I wasn’t able to get all of my photos before it died. Is there any chance I won’t lose them when I replace the battery? Or, is there any way to charge a 6s battery with a bad connector?

    Liz R - Contestar

    There is a great chance that photos, which are stored to flash memory, which is solid state memory, which is not affected when power is lost, will be there, right where you left them, once you restore power to your device. You could install a partially charged battery into your phone and then retrieve the important things, like your photos, if you don’t intend to continue using the phone. Else look at replacing the lightning connector assembly. Here: Reemplazo del ensamblaje del conector Lightning en iPhone 6s

    TimD -

    The P2 is not getting the screws loose at all. I have tried this several times and no budge on my iPhone 6s.

    Cassandra Vigil - Contestar

    To avoid to be screwed by lost or mixed screws:

    - Use magnetic pad, wipeable

    - Write the ifixit- steps next to the screws (maybe even with their sizes) and other bits removed

    with a non-permanent marker

    - When finished, simply wipe the pad, and it’s ready for the next repair

    Hope that helps.

    Ulrich Janßen - Contestar

    I found a pentalobe 1 driver to work much better.

    joelkevinjones - Contestar

    The suction cup didn’t hold at all. I tried Windex and then hospital grade alcohol, but nothing worked. Finally had to use two exacto knife blades to begin lifting the screen. As soon as I got a little gap, used the spudger tool the rest of the way, The small philips driver didn’t fit the screws exactly, but with a little effort they came out. My battery adhesive strips snapped immediately and I had to remove the original battery the “hard way”. The kit came with replacement display adhesive but no explanation how to use it. I got some on - so better than nothing. Overall I’m happy with the results, and the new battery is charging now.

    Daniel Wolf - Contestar

    First step problem? Couldn’t get the screws out. I checked my other iPhone and realized the screws were missing!Just started prying it apart.

    Hoyt Smith - Contestar

    I went through the whole procedure, replaced the battery and got the screen back on. Then the 2 pentalope screws would not go into their sockets. They sink in all the way and spin, but it appears there are no threads to grab. The screen seems to be in position since I can insert a plug into the headphone jack without trouble. Did anyone else have this problem. Using the phone now with no screws. Yikes.

    Walter Plante - Contestar

    Hi Walter, in case you’re still dealing with this or anyone else has the same problem, check that the screw bosses on the bottom of the screen are straight and line up with the screw holes on the case. They should be at a 90° angle to the screen, but they’re easy to accidentally bend and could’ve gotten flattened against the screen.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I recommend a loop of tape attached to the table, and placing the screws on the tape in the order they were taken out. identifying the screws to put back is a simple matter of going the other way back up the tape.

    David Taylor - Contestar

    Did the repair for the second time, each time faster and easier. This steps by step is amazing and crystal clear no mistake possible.

    Jean-Gabriel Duquesnoy - Contestar

  2. reemplazo placa lógica iphone, Procedimiento de apertura: paso 2, imagen 1 de 1
    • Opcionalmente, aplica calor suave en el borde inferior del iPhone usando un iOpener o un secador de pelo durante aproximadamente un minuto.

    • El calor suaviza el adhesivo que asegura la pantalla, lo que facilita su apertura.

    What about specifying the hot air temperature?

    Nicola Centrone - Contestar

    The glue softens pretty easily, so the exact temperature isn’t critical. Get it slightly too hot to touch. If you have trouble, heat it a little more and try again.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    What temperature on the screen separator lcd machine and for how long?

    Manraj Gulati - Contestar

    This is the first time I opened my 6s since it was purchased new four years ago. Even without heat, constant and firm works enough to be able to squeeze the flat edge of the spudger. From that point and without any additional pulling from the suction, twist the spudger gently to “walk” it open on both sides.

    Family Juinio - Contestar

    I used a hand towel folded in half and a clothes iron on the cotton setting (med-high heat, no steam). Placing the doubled towel between the phone and the iron, I would set the iron down for about 20 seconds (my iron has a timer that beeps when left horizontal for too long). Lift the iron, check the temperature (aiming for just too hot to touch), reposition as needed, repeat. It took me a while, but that’s because I took my time not knowing how fast this would heat. All-in-all, about 2 minutes to reach the right temperature to loosen the adhesive (it IS tenacious).

    Sarah Wruck - Contestar

    Holy. Redii eirhejbrd

    Andy Carson - Contestar

    just been given a 6s to repair, for this stage would a hot water bottle work ??

    Steven James - Contestar

    I used a hot-water bottle to keep the iPhone warm while prying patiently, though the moving surface added to the challenge.

    Before that, I put the iPhone - screen facing down - to warm on the coffee cup heater (45°C) of an espresso coffee machine. Half an hour seemed more than enough.

    A hot-water bottle filled with water at 60°C would do the job I think.

    Later repeated the same heating before removing the adhesive strips under the battery (allowed me to extract each strip successfully, rolling it on the body of the spudger).

    And also before putting the new display assembly adhesive under heavy book weight.

    Aubin -

    I heated a stone pestle in the air fryer, wrapped in a cloth.

    Ark - Contestar

    I didn’t have any of the heating tools listed here so I improvised:

    To soften the glue I heated water in a pan (not boiling but quite hot).

    I put the phone in a thick plastic bag in the water for about 20 - 30 seconds. (I checked the bag was properly watertight first by dipping it in water – minus the phone). Maybe I was lucky but the screen came away easily doing it this way.

    Henrik Dahle - Contestar

    Clean the glass screen first with eye glass cleaner wipes (alcohol). Hair dryer on hot with low air speed works excellent. Aim the heat at 45 degrees (phone face up) and move around the perimeter for about 1 minute. The edges should be hot enough to barely touch without burning your figures. This seems to get the glue hot enough at the edges for easy removal. Warm the glass face a bit and also warm the suction cup, this makes the suction a lot better and the suction cup won’t come off like it will if the face and suction cup are cold. Later when removing the battery, heat the bottom with the hair dryer for about 30 seconds and the top of the bottom of the battery where the 2 tabs are for the tape behind the battery. This makes for simple removal of the battery tape under it.

    Keith Paget - Contestar

    Here’s what I did to open my iPhone (I had it open in under 1 minute): 1) I has one of those rice/barley filled eye masks that you heat up in a microwave. I heated it for 1 min and then placed my phone face down onto it for 1-2 min. 2) I placed the suction cup onto the left lower corner and the “tweezers” into the headphone jack. Pull upwards with the suction cup and hold the phone’s body down in place with the tweezers. 3) a gap will open. Slide the edge of a razor blade into the gap (not too deep) 4) insert the plastic triangular guitar pick tool into the gap next to the razor blade. Slide sideways with the triangular tool to make the gap large enough to insert the spudger. 5) insert the edge of the spudger tool (curve down) into the, now widened, gap. 6) slide the spudger tool along the edges of the iPhone. Opened!

    jennismith2 - Contestar

  3. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 3, imagen 1 de 1
    • La apertura de la pantalla en los 6s separa una tira delgada de adhesivo alrededor del perímetro de la pantalla . Es posible completar la reparación sin tener que reemplazar el adhesivo y probablemente no notarás ninguna diferencia en la funcionalidad.

    • Aplica una ventosa en la esquina inferior izquierda del ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    • Ten cuidado de no colocar la ventosa sobre el botón de inicio.

    • Si tu pantalla está demasiado agrietada, cubriéndolo con una capa de cinta adhesiva podría permitir que la ventosa se adhiera. Alternativamente, puedes usar cinta adhesiva super fuerte en vez de la ventosa. Si todo lo anterior falla, puedes aplicar pegamento fuerte y pegar la ventosa a la pantalla rota.

    Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

    Pablo Reyes - Contestar

    The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

    johnmurphyjr - Contestar

    Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

    Nick Stine -

    Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

    Peter Bovey - Contestar

    For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

    Frank Terence - Contestar

    Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

    Joe Koffee - Contestar

    The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

    Mandy Ng - Contestar

    Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

    Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

    Any info would be appreciated.

    Michael - Contestar

    I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

    jeffreyleung2002 - Contestar

    I can only suggest to use a hair dryer to loosen up the adhesive underneath the display. Mine was stuck so hard it wouldn't barely move. After warming ist up I could softly pull ist up with way less power

    olonetzky - Contestar

    A question, has anyone had success removing a cracked (not shattered) screen? My phone has a single diagonal crack from the top right corner down to the left side. Will the suction cup still work?

    goblazers - Contestar

    The suction cup material was very stiff and wouldn’t adhere well even after thoroughly cleaning the screen. Applying heat from a hair dryer helped with that, too.

    Karleen Smith - Contestar

    A packing tape handle worked well for me instead of the suction cup. I folded a piece of packing tape in half leaving two ends to stick to the part of the screen indicated for the suction cup placement and used the center fold as a handle.

    Diana Riddle - Contestar

    I found that a 3rd hand helped here. Lots of heat and as others say, a strong, steady pull, but you are only creating a gap to get the spludger in, not ripping the screen away from the body. Once I created the teeny gap I had someone else get the spludger in to hold it open while I shifted my grip.

    Steve - Contestar

    I’ll throw in here for other noobs as someone who just read ALL the comments and had things go pretty well without a hitch.

    Adhesive here goes ALL the way around edge. I think think many people’s frustration comes from in adequate heating and/or only heating the inferior edge area. I went with 5 min of a rice/shoulder thingy, (uniform rectangle folded in half on a plate, 3 min in the microwave) Plate side was hot potato hot and stayed so.

    Other inference and comment curating:

    a. Use pointy spudger end inserted slightly into headphone jack to hold down phone while pulling up;

    b. 2mm lift MAX the insert something to hold while you bring the flat end of the spudger around (I just used the flesh of my finger;

    c. Twist spudger ONLY zero -20 degrees when inserted;

    d. Avoid spudgering above or between the pentab screw holes.

    e. Avoid sticking the spudger in more than 2 mm as you slide up the left and right edges. If you catch, back it out a bit until you can keep sliding.

    Aaron - Contestar

    Also all props to Ifixit for addressing many issues with earlier versions of this and their replacement kit! A lot of complaints are clearly obsolete now.

    And if this your first time block out an afternoon and be glad if it only takes 20-30 minutes. Rushing causes breakage more often than not.

    Aaron - Contestar

    I’m in a third world country without access to a hairdryer. Is there anyway else to loosen the adhesive?

    Dylan - Contestar

  4. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 4, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 4, imagen 2 de 2
    • Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa con una presión firme y constante para crear un pequeño espacio entre el panel frontal y la caja trasera.

    • Toma tu tiempo y aplica fuerza firme y constante. El ensamblaje de la pantalla tiene un ajuste más ceñido que la mayoría de los dispositivos y se mantiene presionado con adhesivo.

    • Tirar demasiado fuerte puede dañar el ensamblaje de la pantalla . Aplica suficiente presión para crear un pequeño espacio entre el ensamblaje de la pantalla y la caja trasera.

    • Si tienes algún problema, calienta la parte frontal de iPhone utilizando un iOpener, secador de pelo, o una pistola de aire caliente hasta que esté ligeramente demasiado caliente para tocar. Esto ayudará a ablandar el adhesivo que sujeta los bordes de la pantalla.

    No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

    chuymatt - Contestar

    Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

    plisi - Contestar

    If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

    Bryan - Contestar

    I got a fingernail on the metal edge and that did the trick.

    David Heinbach -

    On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

    scentaur - Contestar

    My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

    Heidi Moser - Contestar

    Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

    amylofton - Contestar

    What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

    Jaredrett - Contestar

    hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

    David Althaus - Contestar

    Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!



    Jaredrett - Contestar

    The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

    Jeff - Contestar

    Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

    Todd Leach - Contestar

    Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

    Mary Blocher - Contestar

    Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

    Tyler Brady - Contestar

    The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

    greghabiby - Contestar

    Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

    Carolann Parran - Contestar

    Me too! Be gentle!

    Matthew Simoenau -

    Me as well, I went very slowly, was working the spudger around the edge and then it shattered. Just going to buy a replacement phone and I was replacing the battery to gift this to my sister as a hand-me-down and now it’s not worth it. Perhaps I can sell the kit second hand…

    kpederso -

    Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

    Eric Olson - Contestar

    Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

    emaneht - Contestar

    Hair dryer - 1 minute until it’s hot like a fresh mug of coffee. Then as soon as you see the smallest gap, insert a razor blade above the phones jack, I needed to slide it towards the charge port and back. Once it slips in keep it there and use your spudger to enlarge the gap and slide it along the corners.

    Steve Esson - Contestar

    Yes, I used the tip of a sharp knife as a pry tool to get me started. Since the screen was cracked anyway I figured I had nothing to lose. It went fine.

    David Heinbach -

    Also tried it with the hair dryer - worked like a charm. 5 Minutes and the phone was open. The whole repair procedure took me about 45 minutes, and was ok. Re-assembling the three display-connectors has been a bit tricky, but with careful movements and taking the time it needs it was not a big problem. New display is very good, phone looks like new :-)

    Christian Woelk - Contestar

    My glass was broken and the suction cup wouldn’t hold on the tape. I used a very thin knife an slowly worked between the glass and the phone frame. Please keep in mind that my phone had been run over by a Ford F150, so I really had nothing to lose.

    Michael Cleveland - Contestar

    What is unfortunately unclear is just how to 1. apply sufficient force and keeping the phone secure with only one hand, 2. whether this is best done on a table to use its opposing surface to secure the phone.

    The suction cup is a worthless tool because flexes too much to provide a good hold. Mine slipped and popped away three times. -The last time causing a crack in the screen.

    ffissk - Contestar

    Glad I read these comments about the screen cracking because I was really trying to force this thing open (with some heat applied already), but it wasn’t budging. Kept applying heat and light force and eventually it started coming apart. The suggestion for placing the pointed end of the spudger in the headphone jack while prying up worked for me and an extra set of hands would have been ideal.

    In the end, with the spudger in the headphone jack, placed a guitar pick in between the screen and the backing and slid it along the bottom left. Left the tip of the guitar pick in to hold the gap and then was able to use the spudger to complete the process as shown.

    Nicholas Anchor - Contestar

    Beware! I cracked the screen. Used iOpener, iFixit spudger etc. I managed to get the spudger into the gap by the headset socket and worked my way up the left, when I came to do the right the screen was cracked. I was taking it slow and steady but clearly that wasn’t enough. Be VERY careful.

    James - Contestar

    Heat is essential, and take it very slowly. Also take seriously the instruction to open just enough to get the spudger in there—then do the real work with that. The suction is just to get started. I had my son insert the spudger as soon as there was any gap at all, then worked it according to the guide.

    I did this on a card table with a vinyl surface so I could lay the phone down. Then I held the metal frame on both sides while pulling the suction cup—my son having the spudger at the ready. Definitely be patient! I had to restart several times when the suction cup popped off and I accidentally reengaged the clips pressing it back on.

    Matt Burleson - Contestar

    I didn’t have any of the heating tools listed here so I improvised:

    To soften the glue I heated water in a pan (not boiling but quite hot).

    I put the phone in a thick plastic bag in the water for about 20 - 30 seconds. (I checked the bag was properly watertight first by dipping it in water – minus the phone). Maybe I was lucky but the screen came away easily doing it this way.

    Henrik Dahle - Contestar

    I did the hair dryer three or four times and applied all of the pressure i could on the suction cup and it just wouldn’t budge. My phone is old and i had a waterproof case on it for a long time that really pressed down on the glass so it would seal. I think having that on for three or more years really sealed the glass!!!! Didn’t want to break it so will live with my battery as is… last most of the day and i am usually around a car charger or home. Just thought i would add a comment that said man i gave it my best shot and opted not to do it. I really liked the kit though and the tool will come in pretty handy to repair other small things.

    David Petr - Contestar

    This was waaaaay the hardest bit for me. Took ages Almost gave up. Allow AT LEAST twenty minutes. Endless patience pulling, then resting for a bit then pulling again. S.T.E.A.D.Y Keep at it long after your inner voice is saying ‘why did you think you could do this. You have never mended anything in your life.’ Then you see the gap and like a steady bomb disposal expert you quietly winkle it apart.

    Cindy Clarke - Contestar

    Used heat from a hairdryer, gentle pulling to lift the glass at the position above the headphone jack one to 2 millimetres with the suction cup, then put my thumbnail in the gap and pulled up gently a bit more to fit the spudger, and mainly slid the spudger as indicated around the glass, bottom first, and then sides to within about a centimetre of the top at most, to release the display. I found very little prying is needed. Once a gap of about a millimetre or 2 is created, that is enough to release the display from the adhesive.

    Nando - Contestar

    Run a little isopropanol along the seam at the bottom end (I had no syringe, so I dipped the handle end of a spoon in and ran that along). Leave a couple of minutes, then warm with a hair drier. It will pop right off with the suction cup.

    robthebrew - Contestar

    It was so much easier after I removed the two screws from step one… LOL! With heat, the screen should come up quite easily. You definitely don’t want to pull too hard. I introduced a small illumination artifact into the screen where the suction cup was attached. I’m not sure whether this was due to the suction cup or excessive heat. I was using a heat gun and trying to warm the screen evenly so it wouldn’t crack. But the temp might have been too high. Next time I’ll just heat the metal around the edges.

    len - Contestar

    don’t forget the screws like my stupid self did!!!

    trevorsklar - Contestar

    After 45 minutes of using a hair dryer the entire time while suction cupping it some 50 times (kept popping off), I finally was able to create the gap needed to remove the display. I found steady pulling of the suction cup was useless. I had to quickly pull,release,pull,release,repeat and this nudged the tape apart, which had the constancy of dried superglue. Not easy, but this phone was 7 years old,....

    skypilota72 - Contestar

  5. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 5, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 5, imagen 2 de 2
    • Hay una pequeña muesca en la parte inferior de la pantalla, justo por encima de la toma de auriculares. Este es el lugar más seguro para comenzar a hacer palanca para abrir el teléfono.

    • Coloca el borde plano de la herramienta spudger en el espacio entre la pantalla y la caja trasera, justo encima de la toma de auriculares.

    WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

    As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

    Jason - Contestar

    If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had a badly cracked screen. Packing tape helped the suction cup stick. Heating the phone helped soften the adhesive, and in the end I pried the screen up at the headphone jack with a sharp pointy knife. That helped me get the spudger underneath. Not recommended if the screen is ok, like for a battery replacement, but mine was cracked so I figured I had nothing to lose. Great guide.

    David Heinbach - Contestar

    There are two relatively delicate brackets that the two P2 Pentalobe screws screw into. They can be easily bent during this prying open process. I ruined one on my phone and I’m hoping the phone will function with just one bracket.

    dougdalglish - Contestar

    +1 on the pointy knife to get the screen pried up. I couldn’t get the suction cup or tape to adhere well enough due to the glass being so shattered. I heated it for quite a while with the hair dryer on high, got a very sharp knife tip under the glass where the “notch” is, and used that to pry upward while another person slid the end of the spudger into the gap I was holding open with the knife. This one step was basically a three-handed job.

    johnjustinirvine - Contestar

    Do not insert the spudger at any time directly beneath the home button because it will crack the screen at the point.

    daniel vellone - Contestar

    +1 to never trying to lift the screen from directly beneath the home button.

    Romke -

  6. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 6, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 6, imagen 2 de 2
    • Tuerce el spudger para ensanchar la brecha entre el panel frontal y el resto del teléfono.

    No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

    Martin Born - Contestar

    should have a warning to be very gentle when doing this as the screen is glass - i shattered my screen following this guide

    Martin McAnespie - Contestar

    Do not twist spudger! Broke my screen. Thanks, iBrokeIt.

    Trevor Snow - Contestar

    As others have said, do not twist the spudger. To release the display, you only need to create a gap of a few millimetres. Better to slide the spudger as directed to release the adhesive, bottom left and right.

    Nando - Contestar

  7. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 7, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 7, imagen 2 de 2
    • Inserta el extremo plano del spudger en el lado izquierdo del teléfono , entre la pantalla y la caja trasera.

    • Desliza el spudger por el costado del teléfono para separar el adhesivo y hacer saltar los clips.

    I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

    Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

    Martin Born - Contestar

    Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

    Bryan Solo -

    Do not go into the top left corner too far your screen will crack i learned the hard way

    Kevin - Contestar

    ok but where js the oart about puttung ut back together? mine diesnt snapinto place,……

    makinfilms - Contestar

    Use two spudgers.

    One placed in the original breech position to be used as a wedge.

    The other to get worked around the unit.

    These spudgers are going to get destroyed in the process and will not likely be great for another repair.

    ffissk - Contestar

  8. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 8, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 8, imagen 2 de 2
    • Retira el spudger y vuelve a introducirlo en el borde inferior, en donde esta ya el teléfono abierto.

    • Desliza el spudger hacia la derecha, a lo largo del borde inferior del teléfono.

  9. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 9, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 9, imagen 2 de 2
    • Desliza el spudger por todo el lado derecho para seguir separando el adhesivo y hacer saltar los clips de la pantalla del teléfono .

    This is some important step here I reckon. I didn’t release the clips individually and gradually, so when I pulled, the two halves of the phone separated quite suddenly and the cables ripped in half. Had to order a screen.

    Neil Bass - Contestar

    How do I release the clips individually? Is there a good explanation?

    Dan Schwartz - Contestar

    i personally use a utility knife and it helps separate the metal bracket that's on the screen from the phone housing

    Andre G. Bashore -

  10. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 10, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 10, imagen 2 de 2
    • Utiliza la ventosa para abrir la pantalla y separar todo el adhesivo.

    • No abras la pantalla más de 90º , ya que todavía está conectada por dentro, en la parte superior, por tres cables que se podrían romper si se tira demasiado.

    Prop it up on something

    Nick Stine - Contestar

    an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

    Christa - Contestar

    You could use a clock weight with 2 socks wrapped around it and an elastic band to keep the screen at a 90 degree angle.

    AudiRo808 - Contestar

  11. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 11, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 11, imagen 2 de 2
    • Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa para sacar el panel frontal.

    Pulling up on the “nub” is a futile waste of time.

    ffissk - Contestar

  12. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 12, imagen 1 de 3 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 12, imagen 2 de 3 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 12, imagen 3 de 3
    • Agarra suavemente el ensamblaje de la pantalla y tira de él hacia arriba para abrir el teléfono , utilizando los clips en la parte superior del panel frontal como una bisagra.

    • Abre la pantalla en un ángulo de 90º , e inclínala contra algo para mantenerla apoyada mientras se está trabajando en el teléfono.

    • Añadir una banda de goma para mantener la pantalla en su lugar mientras se trabaja . Esto evita la tensión indebida en los cables de la pantalla .

    • En caso de necesidad , se puede utilizar una bebida en lata sin abrir para mantener la pantalla.

    on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

    Mirza Zohaib - Contestar

    It said about 90 degrees

    Nick Stine -

    Actually it literally says, “Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.”

    David -

    In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

    jonl - Contestar

    Be careful when separating the halves not to pull off the black tape on the back of the screen half. Mine was stuck to the two halves and I thought it was double sided tape to holding the halves together. It was shredded in separating the 2 halves. It turns out it covers up some kindof of silver paste (purpose unknown) on the back of the screen so I cut a put a piece of plastic film to match it and taped it in place. We’ll see what happens…

    Jamey Gerlaugh - Contestar

    can of soup and rubber band did the trick.

    Big Al - Contestar

    this is bs as they do not tell you reverse how to snap the fuker back on…..putting it in back on!,!!! the guy asks for points for writing thus? why not make a video you dirk….and how to put it back on….what about the other adhesive?..? you moron it says mothing…anyone else have a link? oi could barely put the screws back in..

    takimg the fuker apart is easy….putting the $@$* together again? humpty dumpty!”!!!

    makinfilms - Contestar

    When replacing the screen, make sure to get the top (camera side) lip in first, then work downward along the sides, getting the edge with the home button in last.

    johnjustinirvine - Contestar

    i normally use the long pick as a prop like that on a vehicle

    Andre G. Bashore - Contestar

    It should be noted that to camera end of the screen body needs to hook under the edge of the body…..the hooks of the screen frame need to be under the rim of the main body and snugged toward the camera end to easily close the cover and have it properly clip. These hooks are not really a proper hinge but clasps that need to be under the rim of the main phone frame/edge!! This way the screen easily will return to its closed state nicely gently snapping into place!!

    BRIAN Lee - Contestar

    EVERYONE read this comment. It is KEY.

    Also reverse order for getting screen clipped back in means pressing along the right side top to bottom corner. Then the left. Between that and this comment sandwiches back in like a cinch.

    Aaron -

    I used a full beer can and 2 elastic bands to hold the face at 90 degrees. One elastic at the top and one at the bottom keeps the face still at 90 degrees. This allows you to work on the phone easily. I did not remove the face totally to redo the perimeter glue as I have never dropped my phone in the water over the “long” time I have had it.

    Keith Paget - Contestar

    On reassembly, notice that the top does not snap in. There are hooks that must be engaged before levering the halves back together

    Brian Bygland - Contestar

  13. reemplazo placa lógica iphone, Conector de la batería: paso 13, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los dos tornillos Phillips 000 que fijan el soporte de conector de la batería:

    • Un tornillo de 2.9 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.2 mm

    • Durante esta reparación, mantén un registro de cada tornillo y asegúrate que vuelvan exactamente de donde vinieron para evitar dañar tu iPhone.

    In order to put the correct screw back where you took it out mark the head surface and a small dot beside the hole with a pen. Use coloured pens if you want the exact location for each screw/hole. This goes for steps 17, (23) and 29 too.

    lionno1 - Contestar

    Please! Please! Please! Invest in a Magnetic Project Mat or its equivalent from fixit. It will assist you with completing your repair.

    Ian Baldwin - Contestar

    I just taped down a 8.5 x 11 white piece of paper on my desk and drew a rough image of it, then ‘taped’ the screw I removed to the “image” on paper. It worked just fine. (My first time ever opening an iphone, so give it a shot!)

    italianchick99 - Contestar

    If you missed it from the beginning (like I did) it’s the #000 Philips for all screws except the Pentalobes.

    Max Cox - Contestar

    if you get a plastic ice cube tray, and a fine marker pen, text the sizes on each cube compartment as you follow the guide, also stops the screws getting lost

    Brendan Cranny - Contestar

    used sheet of A4 paper and bluetak - stick screw in bluetak, write location & size on paper

    Kev Salmon - Contestar

    mine is missing a screw!!! this is bs! this was mynmithers ohone nonone ooened it….one screw only…im liesed offf

    makinfilms - Contestar

    For some odd reason the screw “One 2.2 mm screw “ orange circled seems to be stuck and can not be unscrewed.

    Ahitagni Mandal - Contestar

    that could be because of the threaded part might have been broken (i've run into that a few times) never fun but pretty easy to work around it if needed

    Andre G. Bashore -

    Take a picture of the opened phone. Print it out. Put double sided clear tape over the picture of each screw. Stick the screws to the tape on the picture where they belong.

    Jeffrey Smith - Contestar

    Rounded corner, both here and Display cover, takes the Longest screw.


    David - Contestar

    For removing screws, I used a piece of paper and sketched the screw locations and screw sizes in the appropriate pattern for each step I was working on removing screws. I folded clear packing tape in a loop so some sticky area was on top for each screw so they did not fly away when the hair dryer was on or in case I knocked the paper while working beside it. This kept all the screws in an easy pattern with descriptions for later install. Worked slick.

    Keith Paget - Contestar

    Ordered a replacement kit, opened my Iphone 6S, got to this step... surprise, my OEM battery connector is at the TOP ! I am stuck, what now?

    Michel Lavallee - Contestar

  14. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 14, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 14, imagen 2 de 2
    • Retira el soporte del conector de la batería del iPhone.

    Little bit of adhesive holds this down- you do have to use the tiniest bit of force.

    Edward Coe - Contestar

    Pay careful attention to the orientation of this plate so that when it comes to re-installation you put it back the correct way. Sounds obvious but I’ve found it inverted in one customer’s phone, which led symptoms of charging failures and repeated spontaneous restarts.

    Jonathan Bradley - Contestar

    that's something i've never heard happening before wow

    Andre G. Bashore -

    The replacement battery’s connector is just slightly thicker vs the original. When I put the screen back on (also a replacement part from Ifixit) I get a blue shadow because the battery connector is putting pressure on the screen.

    steven pruchniewski - Contestar

  15. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 15, imagen 1 de 3 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 15, imagen 2 de 3 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 15, imagen 3 de 3
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el conector de la batería haciendo palanca hacia arriba de la placa lógica .

    Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

    Andrew spoelstra - Contestar

    Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

    William Turner -

    It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

    Frank - Contestar

    Thanks for the tip, Frank.

    William Turner -

    SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

    enoughstatic - Contestar

    It sounds like several people, including myself, had trouble charging the new replacement battery past about 10%. This ended up being due to the new battery not having a non-conductive insulator. The way to solve this is by adding a small piece of electrical tape to cover the battery connector before screwing in the battery connector bracket over it. You may want to do this on the first go-around.

    If you do experience that problem, I found the answer here and it worked perfectly: iPhone battery not charging after DIY battery replacement. Why?

    Heather Pastushok - Contestar

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - Contestar

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - Contestar

    To reduce risk of battery arcing , as soon as the old battery connector was detached, I wrapped it with insulation from connection all the way to the battery body. Did the same with the new battery to eliminate concerns about shorts while checking fit position to assure the connector would match up with the receiver. Only removed the insulation after all other connections had been restored, so plugging in the battery was the last step before closing the case.

    Robert Dering - Contestar

  16. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 16, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 16, imagen 2 de 2
    • Empuja el conector de la batería lejos de la placa base hasta que se quede separada de su zócalo , a fin de evitar cualquier conexión accidental a la batería mientras trabaja.

    If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

    If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

    Edward Dziuk - Contestar

    Amazing tip Edward, I followed your tip exactly and agree to definitely remove the “TAPTIC”

    italianchick99 -

    Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

    Rajendra - Contestar

    How in the world does one reapply the edge adhesive without making a mess?

    gary - Contestar

    I misread the directions and pulled off the whole large sheet first. I was able to align the bottom of the smaller sheet into the edge of the phone and get the adhesive into the right area. It was a little tricky but once it dropped down it was in the right place. I would have liked an indication of which was top and which was the bottom of the adhesive. The corners seemed slightly different and I aligned the bottom ones carefully.

    Diana Riddle -

    the new battery from ifixit came with a dented connector and wont connect to the logic board. What do I do?

    Adam Frederick - Contestar

    are you suuuuuure you didn’t dent the connector? i know if i had received a battery with a dented connector, i’d immediately contact the seller so you probably dented it yourself and now you’re trying to trick all us but we’re on to you.

    unibody deluxe -

  17. reemplazo placa lógica iphone, Ensamblaje del panel frontal: paso 17, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los cuatro tornillos Phillips que fijan el soporte de cable de la pantalla

    • Tres tornillos de 1.2 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.8 mm

    Thank you for this great guide!

    I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

    So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

    scentaur - Contestar

    You need to remove the screen completely if you want to replace the adhesive gasket around the outer phone edge.

    Glen Paetz -

    The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

    Harry Allinson - Contestar

    I’m also having this issue now, what did you do to get the screw out?

    Belmin Husanovic -

    Sounds common but no solution? I keep working at it but no luck. Anyone find a way in the last few years?

    Kurt Mickelson -

    There’s no trick… Make sure you’ve got the right driver, press down HARD, and crank it. If it’s stripping, check your driver and consider moving up one size. Resources: Screwdriver Best Practices & How to Remove a Stripped Screw - Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

    robertdjclark - Contestar

    Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

    David Shaddock - Contestar

    The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

    anujfolsom - Contestar

    I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

    GiovanniB - Contestar

    You need to remove the screen completely if you want to replace the adhesive gasket around the phone’s outer edge.

    Glen Paetz -

    I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

    Anyone have the same issue?

    Evander Lorenz - Contestar

    A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

    Peter Bovey - Contestar

    what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

    mshary alzhrany - Contestar

    The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

    Matthias Wagner - Contestar

    I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

    Scott Young - Contestar

    @scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

    Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

    Thomas Kintigh - Contestar

    I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!

    Peter Bovey -

    The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

    laffinbuz - Contestar

    I had a problem reassembling the iPhone, my touchId wasn’t working any more even if the home button was working correctly. I don’t know why but loosening these 4 screw a bit made it work again. If I tight them again it doesn’t work. Maybe this can help someone.

    Alex Mufatti - Contestar

    @alexmufatti I had the same exact issue and luckily came across the same solution by trial and error. However a few weeks later Touch ID suddenly stopped working again and I think it’s the same issue. I was hoping somebody came across a more permanent solution.

    Michel Chemas -

    I was nervous not following this guide step-by-step, but as others mentioned I did not have the correct ‘bit’ size to remove the 3 screws circled in ‘red’ in the above diagram. I skipped steps 17, 18, 19 BUT used the ‘tip’ in step 11 to prop the front screen without removing the front display completely and I was still able to replace battery.

    italianchick99 - Contestar

    how to measure the screw? from the head or from under the head?

    Balieltello - Contestar

    Measurements in the guide are for the entire length of the screw, including the head, as measured with an ordinary digital caliper.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I was unable to remove the display cable bracket. Therefore I was unable to remove the display, which meant I couldn’t replace the screen seal. ☹️ The small Phillips bit seemed too pointed so it couldn’t get into the screw deep enough to grip. The second Phillips bit was too big. It makes me wonder if I got the correct tool kit with my battery replacement kit.

    Mark Morris - Contestar

    The display does not have to be removed! If you secure it in place with a rubber band as advised (actually one at the top and one at the bottom works best - stops the bottom half of the phone sliding towards you) , it will quite happily sit there while the battery is replaced. It’s definitely better not to have to remove and reconnect those display connectors!

    J-P jpfromadelaide - Contestar

    I’ve done this with an iPhone 5 and an iPhone 6S. I did not remove the display either time; I was afraid of damaging something unnecessarily. It’s definitely not necessary to remove it! I had an extra set of hands and eyes to help me be careful, but if you get the battery adhesive strips off cleanly, it’s easy to leave the display on.

    Matt Burleson - Contestar

    I skipped 17 to 22 as I was not redoing the perimeter glue. Worked well for me, except the phone will not be water proof.

    Keith Paget - Contestar

    no need to remove the display. I did not even secure it..just did the replacement carefully. All worked out well. Also unless you are planning on submerging the phone in the water replace the perimeter glue. Otherwise it works just fine with out it.

    Igor Kapitanker - Contestar

  18. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 18, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 18, imagen 2 de 2
    • Retira el soporte del cable de la pantalla.

    What can I do if one of the screws get stripped?

    Zoe Shadzad - Contestar

    Mine has an additional 1.2 mm in the center of the cable bracket.

    Romke - Contestar

  19. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 19, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 19, imagen 2 de 2
    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger, o una uña , para desconectar el cable de la cámara de flexión delantera haciendo palanca hacia arriba desde la base correspondiente en la placa lógica.

    Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

    David Rogers - Contestar

    I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

    Kenneth Hilstan - Contestar

    pad under earspeaker is lost, where to buy?

    Balieltello - Contestar

    For me, both the camera flex cable and the digitizer cable from step 20 came out together. Made me wonder in step 20 where was the cable I needed to release :-)

    Jean-François Schmitz - Contestar

    Are there any tips for plugging the connectors back in, besides don’t push on the center of the digitizer? It felt like I could really mess up the pins if they weren’t aligned correctly and I tried to push them in too firmly.

    Diana Riddle - Contestar

  20. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 20, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 20, imagen 2 de 2
    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger, o una uña , para desconectar el cable digitalizador haciendo palanca hacia arriba desde la base correspondiente en la placa lógica.

    • Cuando vuelvas a conectar el cable del digitalizador, no presiones el centro del conector. Presiona un extremo del conector y después presiona el extremo opuesto. Al presionar el centro del conector puede doblar el componente y causar daños al digitalizador.

    I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

    gbmazur - Contestar

    Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

    David Shaddock - Contestar

    Patience. I had trouble but after some time got it back in. Didn’t have to rearrange anything like above ^. Maybe the design was changed.

    Cbirdsey - Contestar

    I have no audio through the earpiece after completing the process. I have removed and reseated all cables several times. What’s wrong?

    Tobin Antpusat - Contestar

    Same problem…. any suggestions?

    Antonio Sacchet -

    My touch id does not work anymore after battery replacement. Can it be that its due to badly connected digitizer cable to connector? Everything else seems to work perfectly. Thanks

    cyp - Contestar

    I can get one end of the thing to fit in to place, and then when I move over to push the other side down, the first side pops back out.

    Samuel Martin - Contestar

    I've got the reassembly order backwards and installed the battery first, and the digitizet seccond. I think I fried something, because smoke came out of the socket. Can anyone tell me what needs to be replaced?

    Christiaan Erkelens - Contestar

  21. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 21, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 21, imagen 2 de 2
    • Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o reconectar el cable es este paso.

    • Desconecta el cable de pantalla haciendo palanca hacia arriba desde su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

    Bailey Duncan - Contestar

    There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

    Scott Young - Contestar

    My replacement screen had only two connectors while the old screen had 3. I sent it back for replacement. Not sure what went wrong here, because everything else fit perfectly. So what model could this replacement screen have been intended for?

    Martijn Vos -

    I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

    Amanda Cooper (Doula) - Contestar

    Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did

    Alex Tanner -

    I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.

    Dennis Gagomiros - Contestar

    You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I made the same mistake and I'm wondering if you got a fix for it? Is the damage done on the screen assembly or phone itself?

    goesprotocall -

    My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors

    cellabella1 - Contestar

    The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The important warning about making sure that the battery is disconnected may be more beneficial at the BEGINNING of these instructions.

    ffissk - Contestar

    I mean if you follow the guide it literally says to disconnect it first. Step 15

    Nick -

    There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process. My replacement only got 3, what should i do?

    Vincent Ladida - Contestar

  22. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 22, imagen 1 de 1

    If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

    cdinger - Contestar

    There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

    Ira Goldman - Contestar

    Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

    Ira Goldman - Contestar

    Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

    Bryan Solo - Contestar

    My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

    Ben - Contestar

    When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

    Joep Willemsen - Contestar

    be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

    Christa - Contestar

    If reapplying adhesive, I would strongly recommend that you wait until you are reassembling the phone. Otherwise, trust me, it gets really sticky and limits your mobility around the phone. I had it all over my fingers by the time I finally got the old battery out and the new one in.

    Justin Tilghman - Contestar

    Removing the battery was a challenge as the old adhesive snapped before it came out so I had to use a hair dryer to warm the adhesive before slowly peeling the battery off. I still manage to puncture the batter and nearly had a fire. When inserting the new battery I didn’t leave enough room for the connector to fit beside it so I had to pull it off, plug the connector into its port, then insert the battery. I think the instructions should warn you to leave enough room for the connector to tuck in beside it.

    The kit came with a new adhesive gasket but I could not find the instructions on how to install it. But after 45 minutes I had it done and my iPhone 6S is back in working order. Don’t forget to ‘hard’ reset the phone on start up, run the new battery all the way down. Otherwise this is a very good value time and money wise.

    Ramon Pabalan - Contestar

  23. reemplazo placa lógica iphone, Cámara trasera (iSight): paso 23, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone, Cámara trasera (iSight): paso 23, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa la parte plana de un spudger para desconectar la cámara trasera de su ranura en la placa lógica.

  24. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 24, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los siguientes dos tornillos Phillips que sujetan la cámara posterior

    • Un tornillo de 1.6 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.0 mm

    Remember to place the nfc bracket under the camera bracket properly before attaching the 2.0mm screw.

    Mikołaj Podjacki - Contestar

    Thank you - well pointed out!

    Laurie MacDonald - Contestar

    Ditto - I almost overlooked it. Thank you!

    Frank Diaz - Contestar

  25. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 25, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 25, imagen 2 de 2
    • Quita el soporte de la cámara.

  26. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 26, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 26, imagen 2 de 2
    • Inserta el spudger por el lado derecho de la cámara, entre la cámara y la carcasa.

    • Muy suavemente, haz palanca para sacar la cámara.

  27. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 27, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 27, imagen 2 de 2
    • Quita la cámara.

    There is one more step after this.

    You must remove some metal part before you push out the camera ring.

    Also must have new metal part because after you take out (metal part) cant back agin the same part.

    Sry for my english.

    Best regards

    It Step - Contestar

    When I did it, the metal part didn’t pop out and stayed in. I just lined it up with the screw hole as the metal part also had a hole. I assume it’s to bridge something. Hope this helps.

    spearson -

    Hi - after doing this I had a little part left over … eek.. part number 160-5Z and two little screws… can you help by tells my me where ive gone wrong please? Thank you

    Hayley graham - Contestar

    When I did it, the metal part didn’t pop out and stayed in. I just lined it up with the screw hole on the upper right side as the metal part also had a hole. I assume it’s to bridge something. Hope this helps.

    spearson -

    Faltaría el paso de retirar la parte metálica que se encuentra antes del vidrio del lente. Que método utiliza para retirarla?

    Nicolas Muller - Contestar

  28. reemplazo placa lógica iphone, Bandeja del SIM: paso 28, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone, Bandeja del SIM: paso 28, imagen 2 de 2
    • Inserta la herramienta de expulsión del SIM o un clip de papel en el pequeño agujero en la bandeja del SIM.

    • Presiona para expulsar la bandeja.

    • Esto puede requerir un cantidad significativa de fuerza.

    Anyone ever have the lever on these break? I’m in the process of removing logic board to remove a stuck SIM card

    aburningstariv - Contestar

    I am baffled by the representation that this task requires 1-2 hours. I’ve spent at least 16 hours so far, and I’ve just gotten to the point of applying the adhesive around the perimeter of the case. I’ve done DIY with many gadgets, with cars, electricity, plumbing, painting, carpentry, masonry, and so forth, so it’s not a matter of inexperience, incompetence, or my having ten thumbs. While I am being very deliberate in this work, since this is the first time I’ve opened up a smartphone, and even tiny errors can seriously damage the phone, that doesn’t begin to account for the enormous discrepancy regarding the time this takes. Are other commenters being boastful, afraid to admit how long this is taking them, or what?

    Robin Nerode - Contestar

  29. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 29, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira la bandeja del SIM del iPhone.

    • Cuando vuelvas a insertar la tarjeta SIM, asegúrate que lo haces en la orientación correcta conforme a la bandeja.

  30. reemplazo placa lógica iphone, Placa lógica: paso 30, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retire los dos tornillos Phillips de 2,3 mm que sujetan el soporte del conector del cable componente superior.

  31. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 31, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 31, imagen 2 de 2
    • Retire el soporte del conector del cable del componente superior.

  32. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 32, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 32, imagen 2 de 2
    • Retire los siguientes cinco tornillos Phillips que sujetan la antena Wi-Fi superior izquierda:

    • dos tornillos 1,5 mm

    • un tornillo de 2,3 mm

    • un tornillo de 1,9 mm

    • un tornillo de 2,0 mm

    When tightening the screws again, make sure the screw marked in green and yellow are tightened, it can cause distortions in Apple Pay and NFC functions

    Armin Hełmiński - Contestar

    I have difficulty removing the screw in green … is it a #000 or something else

    BABY RAS - Contestar

  33. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 33, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 33, imagen 2 de 2
    • Retire la antena superior izquierda de Wifi.

    Step 32, 33 & 34 & their pictures show the middle case "One 1.9 mm Phillips screw" under the Wi-Fi antenna chip having been removed when it actually isn't removed until step 42. This made me think I had missed a step when I hadn't.

    blitzn - Contestar

  34. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 34, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 34, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el cable de control de audio de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

  35. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 35, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 35, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use la punta puntiaguda de un spudger para desconectar el cable de antena de su zócalo en la esquina superior derecha de la placa lógica.

    It is still recommended to disconnect the antenna in this step as it will allow some slack you may need but tugging or pulling on the antenna cable down at the speaker could still damage it so be patience. Also lift on the connection from the metal portion as lifting from the cable could cause it to snap.

    Bryan Solo - Contestar

  36. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 36, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 36, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use la punta puntiaguda de un spudger para desconectar el cable de antena de su enchufe en la esquina inferior izquierda de la placa lógica.

    Be super careful here, pry the cable by the brass connector so as not to snap it off

    Andrew Truglia - Contestar

    During reassembly: be aware that the replacement antenna connector (the one that comes as part of the lightning port assembly) might be a very snug fit here. It probably took me close to 10 minutes to get mine on. Thankfully the little sucker is stronger than it looks, or else I would have smushed it flat multiple times. You’ll know that you finally have it when it lightly snaps in place.

    crimsontideaggie - Contestar

  37. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 37, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 37, imagen 2 de 2
    • Inserte el extremo plano de un spudger debajo del cable plano del conector Lightning. Levante para desconectarlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    Reassembly: A lot of adhesive held this cable down. Had difficulty getting this ribbon cable reconnected to the socket; it kept popping back up. I think the antenna cable was not exactly where it needed to be, and I had to mess with logic board a bit to make sure the antenna cable was wedged down where it needed to be.

    Heidi Moser - Contestar

    Unless you are replacing the speaker you may skip to step 46 as removal of the logic board is not necessary.

    Bryan Solo - Contestar

  38. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 38, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 38, imagen 2 de 2
    • Tire suavemente del cable de la antena para desviarlo de los dos clips en el lado derecho de la placa lógica.

    nope, don't bother taking the logic board out if your just replacing the lightning connector. when removing the speaker in the steps after you can just fold it over to the side leaving it connected by the antenna. obviously not very professional but saves a very lot of messing with the 6s's stupid wee plastic clips, brackets and what not.

    waynemcguigan - Contestar

    Thanks friend!!

    Pedro -

    Wish I had read this comment earlier. Had a bear of a time reconnecting this antenna cable.

    Heidi Moser - Contestar

  39. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 39, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retire el tornillo Phillips de 1,3 mm que fija el soporte NFC a la placa lógica.

  40. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 40, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 40, imagen 2 de 2
    • Retire el soporte NFC.

    Именно эта деталь отвечает за нормальную работу ApplePay, при возникновении ошибок часто является причиной, но не всегда.

    Matvey Sokolov - Contestar

    “This particular part is responsible for the normal operation of ApplePay, when errors occur it is often the cause, but not always.” Translated this comment into english because I found it very helpful and figured other english speakers would find it helpful to know as well.

    TitanTech Service Center - Contestar

    Does this also have to do with Airdrop?

    Richard Leknes - Contestar

  41. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 41, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 41, imagen 2 de 2
    • Retire los siguientes tornillos

    • Un tornillo de 2,5 mm en la parte superior de la placa lógica

    • Un tornillo de 1,4 mm colocado en el borde superior de la carcasa trasera

    For anywhone who struggles with the orange screw: you don’t need to remove it. When removing the logic board, slide it a bit to the bottom to get it from under the clip, and when re-inserting the logic board, slide it back under the clip. This is very easy and no issue

    Florian Schmidt - Contestar

  42. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 42, imagen 1 de 2 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 42, imagen 2 de 2
    • Retire el clip plastico

  43. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 43, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retire los tres tornillos finales que sujetan la placa lógica a la carcasa trasera:

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 1,9 mm

    • Una tuerca hexagonal de 2.5 mm

    • Un tornillo Phillips de 1.8 mm

    The tool to remove the hex standoff screw WASNT included in the recommended parts list. A hex driver bit WAS included; however the hex screw needs to be removed using a socket type bit. I removed it using the tweasers as pliers.

    mario cruz - Contestar

    You're right, we listed the wrong driver type. It's listed correctly now—the 2.5 mm nut driver is the tool you want.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    For some reason the 2.5 mm nut driver in my iFixIt tool set does not work. I think the nut is a bit too shallow (short) to fit into the driver itself

    ray - Contestar

    Hi Ray! If you think you have a faulty bit, please don’t hesitate to contact customer service, they’ll take care of you!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I found the same problem with the 2.5mm nut driver in my, non-iFixit, precision set. The nut is too shallow to engage with the hex socket because of the shape of the rounded edges at the mouth of the socket. Managed to overcome this by carefully re-engineering the socket with a diamond flat file ie filing it to remove the rounded edge and leave the hex opening flat and square. Worked perfectly after this.

    Laurie MacDonald - Contestar

    The funny thing is that for some reason the pentalobe bits seem to let the screw nut go out and screw back in.

    Ben -

    The pentalobe driver works perfect with the 2,5 hex nut. Much thanks for the tip: saved me lots of time since I didnt have the appropriate driver handy !

    Philippe PIOLAT - Contestar

    I simply used a pair of long-nosed pliars

    qubus Merrie - Contestar

    Beware. The difficult part isn’t unscrewing the nut, it’s getting it back in again … especially if you don’t have the correct tool.

    qubus Merrie - Contestar

  44. reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 44, imagen 1 de 3 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 44, imagen 2 de 3 reemplazo placa lógica iphone: paso 44, imagen 3 de 3
    • Inserte una selección de apertura debajo del borde inferior de la placa lógica, entre la placa y el altavoz.

    • Use la palanca de apertura para levantar suavemente la placa lógica de su alojamiento.

    • Retire la placa lógica.

    On reassembly, be sure the audio control cable isABOVE the logic board when you place it.

    Cathy Sanford - Contestar

    Thank you for the detailed instructions. They were very easy to follow. Hope it works; fingers grossed.

    Frank Diaz - Contestar


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Evan Noronha

Miembro Desde 05/02/15

214,784 Reputación

177 Guías creadas


The Home Depot Miembro de The Home Depot


9,658 Miembros

1,025 Guías creadas

31 comentarios

So all the logic boards come with the components installs? Like the High band PAD, power amplifier avago, power amplifier Skyworks, power amplifier TriQuint, LTE modem Qualcomm, and lastly the Apps processor Apple SoC stacked on Elpida RAM. Here I thought you had to buy them.

I'm also assuming that some don't. I would like to know that alternative.

Royer Adames - Contestar

Does the logic board have the SSD on them or they else where in the iPhone?

tazzy - Contestar

Yup! The SSD is a flash memory chip hidden underneath an EMI shield on the logic board. You can see it in our teardown.

Evan Noronha -

Um, no, actually the NAND/ssd/flash/storage chip is the big Toshiba one in the middle, it’s the one next to the line of capacitors, and is not under the shields. there are shields on either side of it. Look at the teardown page you linked to yourself and you will confirm what I’ve said.

Sam the Techman -

great guide worked perfectly, had some minor water damaged internals with a completely good logic board, replaced it in a 16g pos basically have a brand new 128g 6s

miniperf93 - Contestar

Thank you Evan for taking the time to make this guide

Jeff Moore - Contestar

Great instruction. The only thing I had a problem with on my 6s motherboard removal was not knowing how to remove one end of the single black wire that rides along the left edge for about 4 inches (when viewed with the screen upside down and with bottom down. I ended up severing the wire at the bare junction about half way of the wire length. Hope that it is not a coaxial cable!

Richard Lukso - Contestar

Great instruction set.

Richard Lukso - Contestar


Great instruction. The only thing I had a problem with on my 6s motherboard removal was not knowing how to remove one end of the single black wire that rides along the left edge for about 4 inches (when viewed with the screen upside down and with bottom down. I ended up severing the wire at the bare junction about half way of the wire length. Hope that it is not a coaxial cable!

Richard Lukso - 2 minutes ago

Richard Lukso - Contestar

I just cut, soldered, and added shrink tubing, and 3G signal strength is 3-4 dots, after reinstall. I don't believe it is a coax...

James Schumacher - Contestar

Hello guys

My iphone is locked with activation lock and I forget my I'd password so what I have to do

Like if I change motherboard then this problem can be solved or not

Reply me at -

py12347 - Contestar

if my 6s logic board is water damaged, would replacing this make it work again? i still have my original home button and everything, i know apple pairs the logic board with the home button for touch id security purposes. so will i still be able to use my apple/touch id if the logic board is different?

Radu - Contestar

If your logic board has water damage, it's not necessarily gone forever. For relatively minor water damage, give this guide a try. If that doesn't do the trick, a professional repair tech with an ultrasonic cleaner and board-level repair skills can probably still bring it back to life. If you do end up replacing the logic board, then yes, you will lose Touch ID functions unless you also purchase and install the home button that was originally paired to the new logic board. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi, I know nothing of phones or repair, but am trying to find out if I can recover the data on my iphone 6s. It hasn't been opened yet but due to the nature of the "bend" in the phone, a "tech" felt the motherboard was likely cracked (he didn't open it, just decided this based on that bend the fact it won't power on/ charge, though it was charged before it got bent). I would love to save my iPhone, but I'm most concerned about the pictures and texts that I have on this phone. Anyone have any suggestions? I would be afraid of replacing it outright if that data is stored there. I couldn't afford to replace the phone with another iphone right now, so when I plug back in it will be with a cheaper Android. Thanks!

Jamie Spray - Contestar

Great instruction set. Thank you Evan for taking the time to make this guide

amigoclubs - Contestar

Thank you Evan for taking the time to make this guide

Best Regards


amigoclubs - Contestar

Hi! this is a helpful turtorial. but where can I buy the logic board? and do different countries have differrent logic board? like is there any difference in an US iphone 6s logic board and an European one?

zubajrat - Contestar

hi my ip6s was screen damage but when i go for repair the home button is not functioning. May i know what is the reason of home button is not functioning? have to change board for that? Thank you

fatimah - Contestar

Where may I purchase a new logic board for an iPhone 6s? When replacing the Logic Board, is it required to replaced the home button as well?

Lambo Thach - Contestar

So I was trying to replace my screen so I turned it off and followed a video online. While i was trying to plug in the display cable, it conducted electricity and it produced smoke. It seems like I burned parts of the display cable socket. Is there an easy fix for replacing this or would I need to buy a whole new logic board with everything included? My phone still seems to turn on and I can feel the vibration from the ring/silent switch.

Daniel - Contestar

@dank_00 This happens when you short the pins on the display cable socket while leaving the battery connected. The little puff of smoke was your backlight filter getting fried. (For future reference, on any mobile electronics repair, you should always disconnect the battery before you start and don’t reconnect it until you’re done.) You don’t need a new logic board, as this is a pretty straightforward repair for a shop with the right skill and equipment. But it isn’t a DIY. You’ll need to find someone who does board-level repairs (a.k.a. microsoldering). Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

My iPhone 6s is locked with a “lost iPhone” screen . Will replacing the motherboard make it go away ?

Coral - Contestar

Hii icloud lock khul jayega yes or no

Manish Gupta - Contestar

If motherboard having RAM??

rsai666 - Contestar

I ended up with a similar board malfunction on my behalf. My goal was to unscrew the logic board and test it with a new battery since the battery it came with is stuck to the logic board I thought gee, its easier to remove the logic board, I didn’t do it on a ESD surface it was on my bed. and when I connected to logic board to a working battery I forgot to reconnect the power button connector sleep/wake button. I only connected the battery D.C. connector. I’m afraid that I did something really bad to the LB, the smoke came from the front of the logic board under the top metal heat shield cover plate. Not the bottom of mother board with sticky heat shield stickers. There was no sign of water damage, I should’ve took a picture of the mother board before I worked on it to have a record of working components from the before and after the smoke appeared. Did I mess up because I failed to connect the power, sleep/wake button connector to the mother board after I had connected the battery D.C. connector to board?

Holmes - Contestar

Is there a reason why iFixit mainly says in the iphone 6s tutorial, “for LB repair to follow steps in revers at the end of each tutorial?”

Holmes - Contestar

Hello sir I'm buy a new logic board iPhone 6s 32GB so this board fully software loaded ef u know please reply me ??

mahendarsinghrawatrawat - Contestar

So when I replace logic board do I need to go and redo setup for icoud what about my sim card will it just work or I have to tell t-mobile something?

Alex - Contestar

By replacing the motherboard and Homebutton I’ll completely transfer the phones “content” to another one, right? So if the remaining space on the phone is getting less I could replace it with the motherboard of another motherboard from the same iPhone model. I just need to transfer the corresponding homebutton too, as TouchID only works with its original motherboard.

Do I need to replace other parts when swapping the motherboard and home button from one iPhone 6s to another to upgrade my available capacity (16BG -> 64BG)?

I don’t want to want to buy a new phone if I could “recycle mine with a bigger space. If you’re wondering why am I not just buying a working iPhone 6s, its because it is cheaper to get the spare parts from a used phone with maybe a cracked screen or a broken camera. Furthermore I am saving a phone from getting thrown away.

Thank you a lot for your responses. Cheers!

Matteo - Contestar

il reste un fil electrique reliant la carte mere à la touche id ??? que fait on ?

serge boismain - Contestar

if obama was a kitchin sink would you be black?

Ryan Stark - Contestar

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