Introducción
¿La batería no dura mucho? Cámbiala (requiere soldadura).
Qué necesitas
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Para ayudar en la visualización, los dos clips enmarcados en rojo están ubicados más cerca del conector para auriculares.
i don't know what genoration my ipod is...but it looks exactly like that on and it doesnt have the clips......what do i do?
https://www.ifixit.com/info/ID-your-iPod
Try that first to find what you have
Given the inherited risks of damaging the components, it would also be important to mention that the area where there are no clips is where the flat cable to the screen resides. So NO deep sticking tools in that area. It’s attractive to do because at that right side the back panel is intruded the easiest way - but dont do it.
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Inserta la herramienta grande para abrir el iPod en la costura entre la carcasa frontal y el panel posterior del iPod, sobre el conector de la base. El borde de la herramienta debe apuntar hacia el panel posterior para evitar que se raye accidentalmente la carcasa frontal de aluminio anodizado.
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Inserta una pequeña herramienta de apertura de iPod en la costura del lado del conector para auriculares del Nano, con el borde de la herramienta apuntando hacia el panel trasero.
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Amplía suavemente el espacio existente presionando/moviendo la pequeña herramienta de apertura del iPod en el espacio cerca de cada una de las dos pestañas unidas a la carcasa trasera, empujando los clips hacia el centro del Nano hasta que ambos se hayan liberado.
the tool i bought because you suggested it to me got inevitably broken like it was butter made, thanks
This is virtually impossible! I have already cut myself when the stupid tool slipped trying to push in on the clips. Why on earth would anyone design something to impossible to open when they know the battery would need to be replaced at some point?
Forget the iFixit plastic tools. You need to use steel on steel. I used a heavy duty engravers knife I happened to have, to get it started. Then, a fine chisel and jeweler’s screwdrivers and LOTS of force to pry it off. I messed up the aluminum front case a bit, but I cleaned that up with sandpaper. The back case was bent a bit, but I straightened that, and after replacing the battery I fastened it back on with black electricians tape. It looks quite well, and good enough for me. I will cancel my order for a replacement back. Joe M 2/3/2018
i never needed the large tool i just needed i little flat head screwdriver
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Inserta una herramienta de apertura de iPod en el espacio cerca de la esquina superior izquierda del Nano y trabaja para liberar los tres clips a lo largo del borde superior del panel trasero.
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Después de asegurarte de que todas las pestañas estén libres, separa las dos mitades del iPod.
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El panel trasero ahora está libre del iPod.
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Con la carcasa trasera quitada, la parte trasera de su Nano ahora debería verse así.
At this stage an alternative (and more simple) procedure is to cut the battery wires between the battery and the logic board (one at a time to avoid shorts), remove the old battery, fit the new battery, strip and prepare the ends of the old cut wires, then solder the new battery to these wires again being careful not to short connections. Then sleeve or encapsulate these soldered joints (wax or blu tack will do). This makes it an easier and quicker job.
Sounds a much better idea to me.
I was just given some old parts in a box. Scored a decent router, laptop power supply and 2 ipods. Unfortunately, the newer one has half it's power connector snapped off and the other (4GB/A1236), I successfully reset via iTunes but it doesn't hold a charge! %#*@. I might just scout for an old speaker dock at a garage sale or such and put it in the bathroom or something.
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Retira los siguientes seis tornillos:
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Una Phillips de 1,8 mm.
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Tres Phillips de 1,9 mm.
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Una Phillips de 2,4 mm.
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Una Phillips de 2,6 mm.
If your headphone jack isn't working, note that it is possible to replace just the headphone jack here:
There are just 4 soldering points that need to be loosened, and then you can put on the new one.
I was able to remove the back cover using two think plastic guitar picks and my red cross donor card
I read some steps further back and it was recommended to NOT remove all the screws and the boards indicated in the following steps, but to go directly to replace the battery. It is no more difficult to go directly to cut the battery leads, or unsolder them. I tried to splice the new battery wires to the cut leads from the board, but it was hard working with the fine wire. I ended up clearing the top of the three battery solder-through holes, but I did not clear the holes. I soldered the battery leads directly to the top of the small round solder dots…first the white, then the black, and finally the red. I fastened the battery in-place with a piece of two-sided carpet tape. I straightened up the back and taped into place with black electricians tape. It is very delicate work, and not for a beginner…I repair family jewelry, which is valuable practice. Joe M 2/3/2018
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Levanta el conjunto de la placa lógica para sacarlo de la carcasa frontal desde el lado del conector de la rueda de clic (el cable que acabas de desconectar). Gira el ensamblaje de la placa lógica sobre el cable plano de la pantalla y colóquelo junto a la carcasa frontal.
When reassembling the logic board into the case, watch out for the tiny nose of the audio jack that's facing towards the center of the device. This nose has to be inserted first, then the rest of the audio jack followed by the logic board itself.
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Antes de continuar, quita el filtro EMI de metal que se muestra tirando de él del adhesivo en la placa lógica.
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Empuja la punta de un spudger debajo del adhesivo de goma y hacia la batería para liberarla de la superficie de la placa lógica.
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Comienza a liberar el adhesivo alrededor de uno de los cables externos, luego libéralo de los dos espacios entre los cables y, finalmente, empuja el spudger a lo largo de la parte posterior de los cables para eliminarlo por completo de los cables de la placa lógica/batería.
It’s actually much easier to remove the rubber adhesive if the battery is taken out and laid upside down.
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Comienza calentando el extremo expuesto del cable blanco de la batería con la punta de un soldador mientras tiras simultáneamente del cable para separarlo de la conexión, utilizando pinzas para sujetar el cable por el aislamiento.
When you clamp the logic board in a small vice for electronic work, the battery hangs down and with the soldering iron in one hand it’s easy to pull the leads with the tweezers. For anyone with soldering experience this soldering is actually easy to do as long as you have the right soldering tool: sharp point, low wattage.
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Usando un spudger, levanta la batería del adhesivo que la sujeta al protector de la batería.
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Comienza a hacer palanca en la esquina superior derecha de la batería y recorre el perímetro hasta que la batería se haya levantado lo suficiente como para agarrarla con los dedos.
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Retira la batería del protector de la batería.
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Para abrir los orificios de soldadura, endereza una grapa y empújala contra la soldadura que bloquea el orificio mientras calientas simultáneamente la misma almohadilla de soldadura desde el otro lado de la placa lógica.
In the shopping list of this page is the ‘desoldering braid’ which, if done quickly, is the easy way of taking the solder out.
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Suelda la conexión colocando momentáneamente la punta del soldador contra la conexión, presionando la soldadura en la conexión (derretiéndola) y retirando rápidotanto la soldadura como la punta del soldador de la conexión. La soldadura debe fluir alrededor del nuevo cable de la batería, conectándolo sólidamente a la almohadilla en la placa lógica.
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Suelda los otros dos cables de la batería de la misma manera, teniendo especial cuidado de no unir ninguna de las conexiones con soldadura.
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Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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18 comentarios
I have one suggestion about replacing the back cover after you are all done (If you did not purchase a new replacement cover). I noticed that in the process of removing the back cover, the metal clips get bent up. This causes the cover to be very loose when you replace it (this is the "considerable damage" I presume the article talks about. In order to get a tight fit, you must press down the clips very gently. One of the tack welds came off of mine, and I had to remove one of the metal tabs because it was useless, so be careful. Anyway, keep this in mind and you won't have to buy a new back cover. Thanks for the article, it really helped!
This is NO EASY TASK. Much HARDER than the steps shown here. There is no way in !@#$ the plastic tool will separate the case...but I am sure someone will say there is.
Not I though.
I will be purchasing the back case now since it is obvious to me after receiving the replacement battery in the mail that I am going to butcher this thing up and the clips.
Peace.
I totally agree, the plastic tool broke the tangs right away. I had to use a small flat blade jewelers screwdriver to pry around. And yes, I bought a new cover
Bud -
I successfully opened the ipod with a walmart brand set that contained a large and small plastic tool. You gotta work it.
quick tip for opening the case, I found guitar picks worked nicely alongside a metal butter knife to pry the clips open. Got the case open within 5 minutes. Would definitely recommend getting a replacement back plate as mine has become slightly bent from the removal.
There is no *(#$ing way the flimsy plastic tools provided could open the tightly assembled iPod case!!!! Don't bother to buy them as they are not sharp enough to separate the case and one even broke after being inserted between the two case halves, leaving its broken pieces between the two case halves. I had to use Xacto knives, utility knives, and jewelers screwdrivers to work the case apart and release the clips. (The instructions here were a GREAT HELP!) Have not yet bought a new cover as first I will try straightening out the old cover and its clips. Or that failing, I am hoping I can epoxy the whole thing back together and this will be the last battery replacement.
Removing the back is by far the hardest part of this process.
After this stage an alternative (and more simple) procedure is to cut the battery wires between the battery and the logic board (one at a time to avoid shorts), remove the old battery, fit the new battery, strip and prepare the ends of the old cut wires, then solder the new battery to these wires again being careful not to short connections. Then sleeve or encapsulate these soldered joints ( wax or blu tack will do).
This makes it an easier and quicker job.
NOTE: Don’t drink half a pot of coffee and two RedBulls before starting this!!! I had the leads for the battery in-and-out of the holes 22 times in three seconds!! Wow!! Other than my stupidity….I was able to complete this in about 45 minutes.
I’m not at all good with repairing technology. I have two iPod 3 nanos that simply need new batteries. Could anyone repair them for a good price, or buy them if they’d like?
I was thinking i could never do this but I did !!! You will HAVE to order a new back it gets bent up while opening. i had to use a razor blade to get in between the front and back THEN i used a plastic wedge to get it open it. Its definitely possible to do. just have to take your time and RELAX..
Using a thin stainless spudger like the iSesamo press straight down at clip points to release them first before using the plastic spudgers to pry case off.
Excellent instructions. Best I have seen for iPod or iPhone. Would agree you must have some experience soldering small electrical components. I would recommend you purchase a de-soldering bulb instead of using a staple to clear holes of the battery leads on the circuit board.
I gotta say, yes, this was pretty darn difficult. The plastic tools were useful, but truthfully, I was able to open the back better with the 'flat-blade' screwdriver than anything wide. The plastic tool was good to open the seam at the charge port.
I think my iPod must be a refurb 'cause the 'black rubbery adhesive' around the battery wires was already mostly gone. So this must be it's 3rd battery!
If you take it very slow, take deep breaths occasionally, it'll work.
I managed to do this. But my iPod is now giving 2 beeps with a white screen. iTunes sees it though, and restore/sync works. I can even hear the clickwheel working. There is just no image on the screen. I guess screen might be ok, since backlight is working? I have tried all force reset tricks there are. Does anybody have any ideas? Thanks!
that screen is bad, the two beeps means the LCD is damaged. I have the same issue, replacing the screen worked for me.
I found removing the back to be very difficult and had to use a mini screwdriver to complete it. While removing the back to replace the clickwheel, I not only destroyed the back, I inadvertently mangled the video cable and so I then had to replace that too.
gruntso - Contestar