Introducción
¿La batería no dura mucho? Cámbialo (requiere soldadura).
Qué necesitas
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Inserta la herramienta grande para abrir el iPod en la costura entre la carcasa frontal y el panel posterior del iPod, debajo del conector de la base. Ejecuta la herramienta de un lado a otro para crear una abertura. El borde de la herramienta debe apuntar hacia el panel posterior para que no se raye accidentalmente la carcasa frontal de aluminio.
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Retire los siguientes 3 tornillos:
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Dos tornillos Phillips de 3 mm cerca del conector de base.
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Un tornillo Phillips de 4 mm a lo largo del borde de la placa lógica.
Note that the 4mm screw has slightly wider pitch; you'll need this when putting the unit back together.
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Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger entre la batería y el lado del conector para auriculares de la carcasa frontal para levantar la batería del adhesivo que la sujeta a la carcasa frontal.
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Saca la batería del iPod y colócala al lado del iPod. La batería todavía está soldada a la placa lógica con tres cables, así que no la quites por completo.
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Sujeta el extremo de la placa lógica cerca del conector de la batería con una mano y sujeta el resto del iPod con la otra mano.
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Desliza la placa lógica fuera de sus soportes de sujeción en la parte posterior de la pantalla.
During the disassembly of the board I somehow "delaminated" the display. The result was that the display (after the battery was changed and the device closed again) looked "cloudy". From some angle you couldn't see anything at all anymore. The solution was to heat up the hole device with a hair dryer and rest it on it's front side for about an hour. After that it looked absolutely perfect again. I am not sure whether the heating is really necessary (maybe just lying the ipod on the front side over night would have the same effect) and surely one should be careful to not overheat the device.
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Usa un spudger para levantar la pestaña de plástico negro que sujeta la cinta naranja de la pantalla en su lugar. La pestaña negra girará 90 grados hacia arriba, liberando el cable plano.
Both ribbon cables were especially difficult to put back in. I can't say I succeeded in getting the nano to work again. If you can avoid detaching the cables, do it. If you're replacing the clickwheel, there's no way of avoiding it unfortunately.
A little tip if you are replacing the screen: Reconnect this ribbon cable from the new screen BEFORE affixing the screen to the adhesive! It will make it much easier. Also be sure that the little black things are UP before trying to put the ribbon in, and make sure you put them DOWN before closing up! The black things on the receptacle "lock" the cable in place, so it is important that you have it STRAIGHT or it wont work. Good luck!
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Usa un spudger para deslizar la cinta de la pantalla fuera de su conector.
Getting the display ribbon back in place is the most difficult maneuver in the whole fix. I actually broke the black plastic tab in half while trying to close it back down, (be very gentle with it!). Managed to put the broken half back in(tweezers and patience) and get that ribbon in and put it back down. This battery replacement was the most difficult/tedious repair I have ever done. Don't do it unless you are brave and stubborn.
You can leave out this steps with disconnecting the two cables.
Without disconnecting the two cables, one can separate the two pieces only 1/2 inch. This is enough to work carefully with the soldering iron and change the battery.
It's a little bit difficult to work with the needle to open the three holes after removing the old battery - but you can do it.
From the reading of the other notes it seems to me easier than to disconnect the two cables
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Usa un spudger para deslizar la cinta de la rueda de clic fuera de su conector.
Don't do this unless you have to. Getting this ribbon back in is nearly impossible.
Cita de daisystanton:
Don't do this unless you have to. Getting this ribbon back in is nearly impossible.
Try using tweezers or medical clamps to reach in that tight spot. Use these tools to also connect the click wheel ribbon back to the logic board.
Stamp tweezers worked great for the ribbon cable! (Search eBay or Amazon, or your local hobby store.) This would be a useful tool for iFixIt to add to their inventory.
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Comienza calentando el extremo expuesto del cable blanco de la batería con la punta de un soldador mientras tiras simultáneamente del cable para separarlo de la conexión, utilizando pinzas para sujetar el cable por el aislamiento.
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Desuelda los cables restantes, siguiendo el procedimiento ilustrado arriba.
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Para abrir los orificios de soldadura, abre un pasador de seguridad y empújalo contra la soldadura que bloquea el orificio. Al mismo tiempo, calienta la misma almohadilla de soldadura del otro lado de la placa lógica. Abrir los orificios por completo requerirá repetir este procedimiento varias veces desde lados alternos de la placa lógica.
A desoldering pump is helpful and makes this step much easier. You basically heat the solder up til it goes liquid, then hit the button on the desoldering pump and all the solder is taken off leaving the hole totally clean.
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Coloca la placa lógica plana sobre una mesa con los contactos dorados a tierra (que se muestran en naranja) hacia arriba.
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Con un par de pinzas, inserta los extremos pelados de los cables de la batería en sus respectivos orificios.
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Inserta el cable negro en el orificio más cercano al interruptor de retención (que se muestra en rojo).
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Inserta el cable rojo en el orificio central.
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Inserta el cable blanco en el orificio más alejado del interruptor de retención.
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Suelda la conexión colocando momentáneamente la punta del soldador contra la conexión, derritiendo la soldadura en la conexión y retirando rápidamente tanto la soldadura como la punta del soldador de la conexión. La soldadura debe fluir alrededor del nuevo cable de la batería, conectándolo sólidamente a la almohadilla en la placa lógica.
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Suelda los otros dos cables de la batería de la misma manera, teniendo cuidado de no unir ninguna de las conexiones.
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Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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12 comentarios
I skipped steps 8,9,11-17, and 21.
Step 19> when un-soldering the old battery wires, make sure to leave solder on the pads and in the holes.
I replaced steps 22-24 with Step 22-24> Very carefully and precisely:
-Place the black lead onto the pad nearest the hold switch (shown in red) with the end of wire pointing away from the battery.
-Place the red lead onto the center pad with the end of wire pointing away from the battery.
-Place the white lead onto the pad furthest from the hold switch with the end of wire pointing away from the battery.
Gently hold each wire in place on the pad while applying the soldering iron taking care not to touch the wire to any other pad or trace (note black wire). When the wire sinks into the solder, remove heat. Hold wire until solder has set.
Do step 25 and charge battery. Much simpler and less risk.
For all newbies, make sure that your soldering spots are neat and clean. Your workplace must be clean! Too hasty repair...and you'll reassemble your Pod once again.
Thanks for the neat repair guide! Much appreciated!" Now I can enjoy my "new Pod" for another 8years at least! No that's what I call environmental awareness! (built in 2005)
Well, how’s it going? It’s been 8 years…
Success! The instructions were clear and helpful. This was the third battery for my iPod, so the desoldering step took a fair amount of time. I am not very experienced with soldering, so I practiced on a little blinking christmas tree kit before attempting this, and I think that was useful.
MUCH easier than I expected. For me the hardest part was getting the rear cover back on. LOL!
First the iPod worked before I put the rear cover back on…then nothing works…the iPod ist dead. I think there must be a short circuit.
What can I do to rescue it?!
Why not cut the 3 wires and splice vs. soldering to PWA? Much less risk to board and easier to do.
I successfully replaced the battery on my iPod nano, the first iPod I’ve ever bought. The hardest part for me was to open the solder holes for the wires, I used a blood lancet for this, but it took a lot of time. While the three wires are glued together on the original battery, they are loose on the replacement battery, which required guiding them in the right position (and staying there) to prevent them from overlapping. After reconnecting the display (using tweezers), it only showed a white screen, but after resetting by pressing menu and middle button for 5 secs, the iPod was working again – and as nice side effect: the clicker is working again too.
For anyone else looking at this, use solder braid to get the holes open. It's the best way to do it in nearly every circumstance.
Öffnen und Ausbau der Hauptplatine ging mit geeignetem Werkzeug sher schnell. Eine Entlötpumpe würde ich nicht empfehlen. Besser geht es mit Entlötlitze und reichlich Flußmittel (z. B. No-Clean X32-10i Flux).
Am schwierigsten gestaltet sich das Wiedereinführen der Flachbandverbindungen. Ansonsten eine Superanleitung, danke.
Turn on the notes and READ thru all the steps and the notes, especially the ones involving the ribbon cables.
patjmccarthy - Contestar