Introducción
La mitad trasera brillante de el case de tu iPod.
Qué necesitas
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Inserta una herramienta de apertura de plástico dentro de la junta entre el frente y la parte trasera del iPod.
AWESOME!!!! Couldn't b happier,1 hour and 10 mins to switch out headphone jack (had music through one speaker) and battery since I had it open. Really only had to use plastic spudger,metal spudger and 1.5 inch puddy knife. Plastic separators didn't really help,for 3 bucks I'm not complaining. Already had a 00 screwdriver. All told,$43.00 for parts and I have my 120 gig iPod back.
what jim says. that pic of the clips should be up here so you can visualise what you’re trying to do, before you trash the rails.
I agree with Hwyman. I spent quite a bit of time trying to open the case with the plastic opening tools but could never get it into the joint. Then I went tried the iFixit Jimmy tool along with the metal spudger for the rest of the steps. It made is so much easier. I completed the entire job within an hour.
I used a watch back removing tool, it is thinner and made of metal and opening my 5th generation classic iPod was a cinch …. really ….. and I am usually quite clutzy. I inserted it and moved it slightly to the left very gently to separate the back and front and those clips just popped open.
It must have been okay because it all popped back together again after I replaced the battery. No issues with bent seam, back or anything I had read here.
Thank you original poster, these instructions were great.
I also ended up putting a small piece of electrical tape over the Hold switch as I kept bumping it with my fingers. That worked really well but it did leave a residue that I then needed to clean up with isopropyl alcohol afterwards.
What happens if you do it without the hold button switched? Because I just did that.
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Inserta otra espátula plástica de apertura en la junta entre el frente y la carcasa trasera del iPod, dejando aproximadamente pulgada y media entre las dos herramientas.
鍵ヘラの小はこじ開けには使わないほうが良い。これは内部のコネクタを外すのに必要です。こじ開けに使うと簡単に曲がるので、コネクタのロックを外すのに使えなくなる。こじ開けはステンレスナイフや金属ヘラ、マイナスドライバーで。
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Con cuidado y con algo de inclinación, inserta una espátula alrededor de 1/8 de pulgada dentro de la junta entre las dos herramientas de apertura.
The plastic tools are fine for holding the tabs open or for prying open partially open sides, but you're much better off using the metal spudger to open em
I couldn't agree more about the plastic opening tools! The metal spudger worked loads better when it came to actually opening the device. Yes, the metal tool's tip was much sharper than the plastic (and hence, easier to cut your fingers on if your grip slips) but it was substantially more effective in the end. :)
At my local hardware store they offer stiff and flexible putty knives - which kind is better for this purpose?
Don’t do this! The putty knife is too wide and will damage the inside of the case. You can see in the photo for step 19 how the metal clip rail has been bent out of shape. You need to use a narrower tool the will fit between the protrusions on the clip rail (which is where the clips actually are). This video shows a better, albeit more dangerous, method using an x-acto knife. I used the method shown in the video but with a #18 chisel blade on the x-acto knife. With the iPod on its back, I inserted the blade with the beveled side down. Then I pried the side out slightly and peeked through the crack with a flashlight to make sure that the blade was positioned between the protrusions, readjusting as necessary. I used multiple knives to prevent released clips from reengaging. Use this technique at your own risk, and wear adequate hand and eye protection as the blades are very sharp and somewhat brittle.
I used the iFixit Jimmy instead of a putty knife. I also watched the x-acto knife video that Robert Watkins linked to in order to find where the clips are located. I slid the Jimmy into those locations until the tool bottomed out and then move on. I only used the metal spudger (to initially open a gap), the Jimmy (to open the clips), and occasionally a plastic spudger (to hold open gaps while I relocated the metal tools to a new section). Pro tip: Use the Jimmy as a letter opener after you fix your iPod.
I used two small putty knives manufactured by a company called Albion Engineering. They make caulk spatulas in multiple sizes. Took me less than 2 minutes to get the back cover off, with no damage to the sides or clips. And - it was my first time! Highly recommend these, especially if you are in the business.
What size(s) did you use?
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Empuja con tus dedos sobre el panel trasero detrás de la espátula, para minimizar el doblamiento. Lentamente, dobla la espátula (tal y como se muestra en la imagen) para asegurarte de que la mayoría de los enganches de metal de este lado del iPod se suelten.
I disagree with the “theory” here. You don’t have to bend the case at all. Watch the x-acto blade video on youtube (it’s linked above in the Step 4 comments). The idea is to slide whatever wide flat tool (putty knife, x-acto blade, iFixit Jimmy, etc…) in between the clip and the body. Setting the iPod flat on the table instead of holding it will help and you won’t cut yourself if a tool slips out. As you disengage clips, you will find that the body will start coming out on it’s own without having to flex your wide tool and bending the case in the process.
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Inserta una herramienta de apertura de plástico en la junta entre la parte delantera y trasera del iPod, esta vez hazlo en la zona que está entre el botón deslizante de bloqueo y el conector de auriculares.
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Cerca del centro de la pantalla, inserta con cuidado un Spudger metálico en el espacio creado por la herramienta de apertura de plástico.
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Usando el Spudger metálico, separa el enganche único que tiene la parte superior del iPod.
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Separa la herramienta de apertura de la parte superior de la esquina, y colócala en la junta entre la parte delantera y trasera del iPod del mismo lado donde tienes colocada la anterior (tal y como hiciste en el otro lado, deja una distancia de pulgada y media entre ambas herramientas).
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Con algo de ángulo, inserta la espátula un 1/8 de pulgada entre las dos herramientas de apertura.
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Una vez que la espátula ha separado el borde del panel trasero, colócalo en ángulo hasta que esté en vertical, y muévelo hacia dentro con cuidado (pero de manera firme) para que se inserte en el iPod a través del hueco que has generado con las herramientas de apertura.
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Empuja con tus dedos sobre la parte trasera y por detrás de la palanca, para minimizar la necesidad de doblar ninguna pieza. Siempre que puedas, dobla ligeramente la espátula para asegurarte de que separas todos los enganches posibles de este lado del iPod.
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Empieza a separar, con cuidado, el clip del panel frontal.
What can i do if unintentionally removed the retaining flap connector from the logic board?
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Agarra el panel frontal con una mano y el panel trasero con la otra.
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Con mucho cuidado (MUCHO CUIDADO), suelta el resto de enganches de la parte trasera separando el panel frontal y trasero (imagina que la parte baja del iPod fuera una especie de pivote), con cuidado de que no dañes los cables planos que mantienen ambas partes unidas.
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Utiliza unas pinzas en ángulo o una herramienta de apertura para levantar el pestillo de bloqueo marrón 1 mm hacia arriba. Asegúrate de tirar desde ambos lados del pestillo.
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Sujeta el cable flexible con los dedos o unas pinzas y tira de él hacia arriba para desconectarlo.
Attention. "Lift the brown lock latch straight up by 1 mm" is wrong IMHO, at least totally misleading!
Wether or not he brown thingy goes "up" depends on the orientation of the iPod, how you are holding it.
Clearer would be "... push brown lock latch away from the back of the iPod" rather "towards you", then "up".
Also the image/illustration wit the red arrows is somewhat misleading in that sense.
Got stuck at this point trying to push it "up" (= towards the top of the iPod), which didn't work, of course...
Luckily no damade done :)このコネクタは上に引き上げることで外れる仕組み。説明にある通り1mmだけです。
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Levanta el disco duro con una mano para poder acceder al conector de los auriculares, que se encuentra debajo.
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Usa el Spudger para levantar la placa de plástico que mantiene el cable del conector de los auriculares en su lugar. La placa girará 90 grados, soltando el cable plano.
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Desliza y quita el cable plano naranja del conector de los auriculares.
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El panel trasero ahora está completamente separado del iPod.
I recommend not doing this. I couldn't figure out how to reattach and broke the jack in process. There is no need to do this step, just be careful not to strain this connector.
This is probably the most difficult part because the jack is so tiny and it's not obvious that it contains a "flip up" retainer. A very difficult step.
How do I get that little 90° clip to stay back down with the new ribbon in it
Nar -
How do I get the little clip to stay down holds the year Jack ribbon to the motherboard
Nar -
コネクタは茶色いちっちゃなプラスチックのロックで固定されている。写真でいうと左から右に起こし上げる。
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Ahora, ¡a reparar los daños causados al separar las partes internas del iPod Classic! Es muy probable que por lo menos uno de los enganches de metal del panel trasero se haya doblado hacia arriba. Estos clips deben apuntar siempre hacia abajo para poder reajustar el panel trasero.
Right, I thought the way that this was phrased is a tad confusing. Basically, once you've separated the front and back panel, insure all the prong-like-clips around the sides of the back panel are all down - not sticking up after opening the ipod. I skipped the step because it was confusingly put. I ended up successfully swapping the battery, however when I went to put the ipod panels back together, they wouldn't clip back properly. This made it very fiddly. Anyway, hope that helps.
Please post a picture of what they are supposed to look like? I think you mean bent outward.
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Sujeta el lado ancho y plano del Spudger y aprieta sobre el enganche hacia abajo, con cuidado de no romper el trozo de metal fino y separarlo del panel trasero. Alternativamente, puedes usar unos alicates de boca plana para reducir el riesgo de que se te deslice la herramienta y dañes el conector de los auriculares.
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En una superficie limpia y dura, coloca el panel trasero sobre su perfil. Con cuidado pero de manera firme, empújalo contra la superficie para colocar la placa lateral de nuevo en su posición.
My iPod wasn’t closing very well, then I noticed that I didn’t do this. Thanks!
I ended up used a set of squeeze clamps with soft rubber jaws to very carefully apply pressure to either side of the case and top and bottom all around the perimeter in order to square it back up.
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Usa el Spudger para levantar la batería y el cable naranja enganchado, y separarlos del iPod. Si tienes un iPod de 160 GB, la batería será más ancha de la que se muestra en la imagen.
Just wanted to say THANK YOU to whoever made this tutorial!! Kinda unclear in some areas, but I got it! Thanks so much!!!
I do this and my ipod works now!
All very easy to do. Ive just "frankensteined" a 100Gb classic and working all fine. Very simple and clear instructions.
Been using iFixit for almost 10 years in my data recovery company and always been informative in getting Macs opened easily and with great results
Within the first minute, I pushed a plastic opener through the flesh of my opposite index finger. Within the second minute I peeled back about 3/16" of my index finger nail. Within the third minute I broke the tips off of first one and then the other of the supplied plastic openers. On the fourth minute, I threw the entire kit -- brand new replacement battery included -- in the trash. Thanks for absolutely nothing!! Ken Queale
Sounds like you're just clumsy...
Absolute waste of money. I have been working on it for an hour and half. Blue tools wore out the first 1/2hour
My hold button ribbon was in the battery glue and tore when I pried the battery loose. I 'm going to try to replace that part with luck that will be all I have to do.
I just did the exact same thing. In retrospect, it strikes me that if I would’ve warmed the iPod’s back with a hair dryer to soften the glue holding the battery, this would’ve been a lot easier. Learn from my mistakes people. :-)
My Hold Button Ribbon was glued between the case and the battery too. Should have chanced more heat on the back of the case to totally free it from the battery before prying off the battery.
Ahtishoe -
I have been trying unsuccessfully to get into my ipod to replace the duff battery for a long while. Now, armed with your instructions and the right tools I have done it! (not without considerable frustration with those pesky clips I might add). The plastic spudgers are useless by the way. It took a while to work out how to release the battery ribbon cable and larger picture of the clip action would help. I too found the battery glued to the ribbon cable beneath it. Perseverance, patience and a steady handed are a must for this one. Well done and thank you!
Battery replaced. MB spooled up when I plugged the unit in. Now waiting for it to charge. This process was actually pretty easy with the help of this tutorial. A lot easier than an iPad repair with all the glue. No way could I have done it without the help. So far: every iFixit! repair I have done has been a success. Thanks!
When finish replace battery, need to restore?
No you do not
The instructions were great! I completed the repair with an hour. I can’t ay enough about the parts, tools, and repair guides from iFixIt. I recently replaced my hard drive with an SSD drive on my iMac and the repair guide for that was spot on as well. Thank you, iFixIt!
Any luck fixing the hold button ribbon Greg? Mine ripped too.
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Use una mano para sostener el cable en su lugar y pele la cinta negra que aseguran los cables hacia el panel trasero con la otra mano.
I saw some YouTube videos where they were able to reuse the black tape on the new backplate, so I took some time to carefully remove it, without success. However, since I was replacing my iPod 7th Gen with a 240GB disk (thicker than the original), the new thicker back plate did not need the tape since the cables are separated form the case.
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Remueva los dos tornillos Phillips negros que aseguran la entrada de audífonos hacia el panel trasero.
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Estos son PEQUEÑOS! Asegúrese que tenga un destornillador de tamaño 00 en su mano.
One tip when reassembling. These screws are very tiny and difficult to handle even with magnetized drivers, so I used the PH000 tip of the iFixIt kit to pick the screws and screw the first turns. Then switch to a PH00 to tighten them. Actually, using a PH00 of a cheaper set I bought to open the iPod, worked better since the length of the screwdriver was shorter than the case.
You can also use a Phillips 000 for these. I also accidentally picked up the wrong screwdriver and got one out with a Phillips 0, but I think there's a definite risk of stripping your screws if you're not careful with this one.
When re-assembling, if you dip the tip of the screwdriver a couple of mm into a pot of vaseline, then place the screw onto the tip, it will hold the screw nicely in place until you tighten the screw (ie it will stick to the tip without dropping off)
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Si tu pieza de repuesto no incluye el interruptor de retención de plástico, sigue los siguientes pasos para transferir el interruptor de retención de plástico a su nuevo conector para auriculares.
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Retira el único tornillo Phillips más cercano al interruptor de retención.
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Levanta la parte de plástico del interruptor de retención para separarlo del cable plano naranja.
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Para reensamblar el dispositivo sigua las instrucciones en orden reverso.
Para reensamblar el dispositivo sigua las instrucciones en orden reverso.
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5 comentarios
Thanks!
Can I swap rear panel fat to slim? I mean I have 6/7’th gen 120 Gb with slim SSD and what to close it with rear panel from 6’th gen 80 Gb - for 3 mm less width. So question: Is this 80Gb-iPod’s rear panel is compatible to my 120Gb-iPod?
Yes, you can. I upgraded the hard drive with a solid state and needed the extra space.
Just would like to have a confirmation that the rear panels of 5th Gen. (Video) and 6th Gen. (Classic) are identical. Some replacement panels are listed as “fits 5th, 6th & 7th” and some are specific…
What is the plastic for the charging port on the panel called?
I mean the plastic that was left in the panel
Actually, there are only 11 metal clips. From the face side:
On the top, only 1 clip centred 35mm from LHS. Avoid the first 30mm on the LHS, and the last 20mm on the RHS
On the RHS there are 4 tabs centred at 20mm, 40mm, 65mm and 85mm from the top. Take great care to avoid the topmost 15mm
On the LHS there are 4 tabs centred at 20mm, 40mm, 65mm and 85mm from the top
On the bottom, there are 2 tabs, each one 10mm in from the edge.
Also, I bought 2 spudger bars with the battery, and found them invaluable. The plastic ones supplied are nearly useless
astutebs - Contestar
Okay, I’m a noob, what’s an LHS…I assume it’s “Left..H…S" and RHS is “Right…H…S”, but please elucidate.
Miguel FC - Contestar
Left Hand Side
Right Hand Side
darren_chalk -
take your time, be patient, it’s hard but you can do it. Watch other videos from youtube for battery replacement for your model to supplement this written procedure - particularly with regard to releasing the battery ribbon connector. I have the hardest one to crack open I and got it done and I’m 63 years old with bad hands…..my ipod classic now works good as new!!!!!!
Donald Diebold - Contestar
Hold Switch in locked position....What is it...What is hold switch? what is locked position? Pl.explain
Alagappan Natarajan - Contestar
The hold switch is on the top.When you see the color on the hold switch. It's either locked or not.
Paul wortman -