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Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X

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  1. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X, Tornillos Pentalobe: paso 1, imagen 1 de 1
    • Antes de comenzar, descarga la bateria de tu iPhone por debajo de un 25%. Una bateria de litio cargada puede producir fuego o explotar si la pinchamos accidentalmente

    • Apaga tu dispositivo para comenzar a desarmarlo

    • Remueve los dos tornillos pentalobe de 6.9 mm de largo de la parte inferior del marco del iPhone

    • Si los tornillos están pelados o dañados, reemplace los tornillos.

    • Abrir la pantalla del dispositivo compromete los sellos a prueba de agua. Obtén algunos sellos de repuesto antes de proceder con el reemplazo, o ten cuidado de exponer tu teléfono a los líquidos si armas de nuevo el iPhone sin los sellos

    There are 6.81mm long screws!

    Daniel - Contestar

    One of the pentalobe screws is stripped :( - suggestions for how to get it out?

    cgtyoder - Contestar

    same situation here

    kaunomarcius - Contestar

    Same issue for me too, how do I get the stripped screw out?

    patronics - Contestar

    Update: I was able to get the “stripped” screw out using another Pentalobe-2 screwdriver bit from another company. It seems it wasn’t the screw, but the screw driver that was actually stripped. Hence why the other screwdriver kit I got came with 3 of this bit, I suppose.

    patronics - Contestar

    I ended up going to a jewelry store, and they drilled down into the screw, with of course an incredibly tiny bit. That allowed me to insert the P2 driver, and I was able to unscrew it at that point. Good luck!

    cgtyoder - Contestar

    Same issue with the stripping. The tip of the iFixit P2 head in my $70 kit just ground off on the first screw and that was that. Not much you can do.

    Kyle Harris - Contestar

    yes correct the same happened to me, the screws were perfect shaped never been open and as soon as i used the P2 it stripped the screws, seems like the P2 is slightly smaller but Dremel kit with a very small drill bits and precise knife tool is the way to go.

    Dulce Vidal - Contestar

    This step in automatically followed through, without any thought. Why remove these screws? Can anybody explain? The Screen is detachable all the same, with them well screwed in…

    Uri - Contestar

    These screws attach to a plate that’s part of the screen half of the phone. If you succeed in detaching the screen without removing those, it would seem reasonable that you will have damaged that plate or its ability to keep the two halves together.

    Dan Long -

    @Dan Long is right

    Uri -

    Clean out the pentalobe screw heads first so the tool goes all the way in. A small sewing needle works well to loosen any build up and then press some putty/chewing gum into the screw head and pull away quickly for a final clean out.

    William Olstad - Contestar

    The this kit should include screws because you’re going to strip them. Can’t even get past step one. Did anybody figure this out

    justin - Contestar

    Never opened my phone ever, when I went to look at the first step.. I noticed one of my screws was stripped. I thought it was impossible, but I removed the non stripped one, then once I got to the stripped one.. I learned my assumptions were correct. I bought this one straight from the apple site years ago ahaha Any tips to remove the stripped screw?

    Clarence Williams - Contestar

    William Olstad's tip about cleaning the screws with a needle and a bit of poster putty worked well for me. There was a lot of crud in there! The opening is shallow, so it's easy to see how the screwdriver wouldn't catch with even a bit of grit in the way, No problem getting the pentalobe screws out with the ifixit screwdriver.

    punkinann - Contestar

    If all else fails, very carefully cut a slot across the head of the screw with a Dremel tool using a diamond bit that dentist will gladly give you - I ask my dentist for used bits; and chuck them in a drill bit chuck designed for Dremel. The slot allows you to use a tiny, straight blade screwdriver. You can reuse the screw or replace it with a new pentalobe screw.

    Dan Smith - Contestar

  2. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X, Coloca cinta sobre cualquier grieta: paso 2, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X, Coloca cinta sobre cualquier grieta: paso 2, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X, Coloca cinta sobre cualquier grieta: paso 2, imagen 3 de 3
    • Si tu iPhone tiene una pantalla rota, mantén contenidas las roturas adicionales y evita daños corporales durante la reparación cubriendo el vidrio con cinta adhesiva.

    • Coloca tiras superpuestas de cinta de embalaje transparente sobre la pantalla del iPhone hasta cubrir toda la cara.

    • Usa anteojos de seguridad para proteger tus ojos de cualquier vidrio que se desprenda durante la reparación.

    • Si no puedes hacer que la ventosa se adhiera en los próximos pasos, dobla un trozo de cinta resistente (como cinta adhesiva) en un asa y levanta la pantalla con eso.

    • Si todo lo demás falla, puedes pegar la ventosa a la pantalla.

  3. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X, Instrucciones Anti-Clamp: paso 3, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X, Instrucciones Anti-Clamp: paso 3, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X, Instrucciones Anti-Clamp: paso 3, imagen 3 de 3
    • Los siguientes dos pasos muestran el Anti-Clamp, una herramienta que diseñamos para facilitar el procedimiento de apertura. Si no estás utilizando Anti-Clamp, salta tres pasos hacia abajo para obtener un método alternativo.

    • Para obtener instrucciones completas sobre cómo usar Anti-Clamp, consulta esta guía.

    • Tira de la manija azul hacia atrás para desbloquear los brazos del Anti-Clamp.

    • Desliza los brazos sobre el borde izquierdo o derecho de tu iPhone.

    • Coloca las ventosas cerca del borde inferior del iPhone, una en el frente y otra en la parte posterior.

    • Aprieta las copas para aplicar succión en el área deseada.

    • Si encuentras que la superficie de tu dispositivo es demasiado resbaladiza para que el Anti-Clamp la sujete, puedes usar cinta de embalaje para crear una superficie más adherente.

  4. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 4, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 4, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 4, imagen 3 de 3
    • Tira del mango azul hacia delante para bloquear los brazos.

    • Gira el mango en el sentido de las agujas del reloj 360 grados o hasta que las copas empiecen a estirarse.

    • Asegúrate de que las ventosas permanezcan alineadas entre sí. Si comienzan a salirse de la alineación, afloja ligeramente las ventosas y vuelve a alinear los brazos.

  5. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 5, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 5, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 5, imagen 3 de 3
    • Calienta un iOpener y pásalo por los brazos del Anti-Clamp.

    • También puedes utilizar un secador de pelo, una pistola de calor o una plancha caliente, pero el calor extremo puede dañar la pantalla y/o la batería interna, así que procede con cuidado.

    • Dobla el iOpener de forma que quede sobre el borde inferior del iPhone.

    • Espera un minuto para que el adhesivo se despegue y se abra el hueco.

    • Inserta una púa de apertura en el hueco que hay debajo de la pantalla y el bisel de plástico, no en la propia pantalla.

    • Si el Anti-Clamp no crea un espacio suficiente, aplica más calor al área y gira la manija en el sentido de las agujas del reloj media vuelta.

    • No dés más de media vuelta a la vez y espera un minuto entre vueltas. Deja que el Anti-Clamp y el tiempo hagan el trabajo por ti.

    • Omite los siguientes tres pasos.

    DO NOT separate the glass from the plastic bumper or rim around it. These instructions don't clarify that the pick has to be inserted between the plastic rim and the metal body. It is likely that the glass will lift slightly off the plastic surround before the plastic will lift out of the metal body. I had success sliding a card or pick back and forth along the bottom edge of the plastic rim while pulling on the suction cup. Eventually there was a space large enough for the pick to go under the plastic rim.

    Anessa - Contestar

    Thanks for pointing this out! I'll revise this step to clarify this point.

    Arthur Shi -

  6. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 6, imagen 1 de 1
    • Al calentar el borde inferior del iPhone se ablandará el adhesivo que sujeta la pantalla facilitando la apertura.

    • Usa un secador de pelo o una pistola de aire caliente o prepara un iOpener y aplícalo en el borde inferior del iPhone durante un minuto para ablandar el adhesivo que se encuentra debajo.

    General tip regarding heating necessary to remove adhesive:

    consider using a heated tip of a small screwdriver or metal spudger (not the one made of plastic, provided in kit), rather than to heat the device itself.

    Uri - Contestar

    You then need to be careful about the temp of the tool which if hot enough can melt plastic components or harm them. Keeping the heat source (heat gun) far enough away from the object that you’ll eventually melt the glue but would be much harder to melt components. I try to keep 4” or 5” gap between the source & object

    Sandman619 -

    Thanks for the info. Could a air convector do the job

    dominique.br - Contestar

    When opening a device that has previously been worked on, and on which the adhesive might not have been replaced, be extremely carful when opening the phone. It will open much more easily than expected. If you’re not careful you might rip a cable.

    jonpol - Contestar

    Is this tool required or can I just use the Anti-Clamp by itself.

    Mikail - Contestar

    If you have a 3d printer, heat the bed to 80c and put the phone screen side down on it for 30 secs

    philip.joseph123 - Contestar

  7. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 7, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 7, imagen 2 de 2
    • Si estás utilizando una sola ventosa, aplícala en el borde inferior del teléfono, evitando la porción curvada del cristal.

    If you were using some form of screen protector, it may come off first as soon as you pull on the suction cup. Do not be alarmed. That is normal behavior.

    Alain-Daniel Wa-Baguma - Contestar

    3m VSB double stick tape will stick to the screen when the suction cups fail (see my comment on step 1)

    Tawan Khamapirad - Contestar

  8. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 8, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 8, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 8, imagen 3 de 3
    • Tira de la ventosa con una presión firme y constante para crear un ligero hueco entre el panel frontal y la caja trasera.

    • Inserta una púa de apertura en el espacio debajo de la pantalla y el marco de plástico, no en la pantalla en sí.

    • El adhesivo impermeable que mantiene la pantalla en su lugar es muy fuerte; crear este hueco inicial requiere una cantidad significativa de fuerza. Si te cuesta abrir un hueco, aplica más calor y mueve suavemente la pantalla hacia arriba y hacia abajo para debilitar el adhesivo hasta que crees un hueco suficiente para insertar la herramienta.

    In addition to safety goggles, I would recommend you also wear good gloves to avoid getting cut with the glass as you try to pry it open.

    Alain-Daniel Wa-Baguma - Contestar

    The top about applying more heat and gently rocking the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive did the trick for me. Thank you!

    Monil Shah - Contestar

    There needs to be more clarity on where to shove the opening pick into. There is actually two openings that the pry tool can be forced into: one below the black plastic bezel, and one above the black plastic bezel. When I heated my screen with a warming pad and pulled up the suction cup, it actually pried apart above the black plastic bezel which removed the touch screen from the display panel. With this being the first newer iPhone I'd opened since the 3GS, I didn't realize that I was opening the wrong opening as the directions only mentioned one opening and did not warn of this. I was pretty disappointed in the lack of mentioning this, as I was taking my time and following it to the tee. As a result, it destroyed my original iPhone screen.

    Caleb Davison - Contestar

    DO NOT separate the glass from the plastic bumper or rim around it. As someone else noted, these instructions don't clarify that the pick has to be inserted between the plastic rim and the metal body of the phone. When pulling upwards with the suction cup, it is likely that the glass will lift slightly off the plastic surround before the plastic will lift out of the metal body. I had success sliding a card or pick back and forth along the bottom edge of the plastic rim while pulling on the suction cup. Eventually there was a space large enough for the pick to go under the plastic rim.

    Anessa - Contestar

    Thank you for pointing this out! I've updated the step to reflect this.

    Arthur Shi -

    The suction cup doesn't work at all... The minimum force I apply to lift it up, it comes off completely. This is very frustrating!!!

    Mario Silva - Contestar

  9. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 9, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 9, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 9, imagen 3 de 3
    • Desliza la púa de apertura por la esquina inferior izquierda y por el borde izquierdo del iPhone, cortando el adhesivo que mantiene la pantalla en su lugar.

    • No insertes tu púa más de 3 mm, ya que puedes dañar los componentes internos.

  10. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X, Información de la pantalla: paso 10, imagen 1 de 1
    • Hay cables delicados a lo largo del borde derecho de tu iPhone. No insertes tu púa aquí, ya que puedes dañar los cables.

    Wouldn’t it be better to put this part BEFORE the step where you have to pry open the phone?

    Jan D. Höllwarth - Contestar

  11. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 11, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 11, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 11, imagen 3 de 3
    • Re-inserta tu púa en el borde inferior del iPhone y deslízala a lo largo del lado derecho para continuar separando el adhesivo.

    • No insertes tu púa más de 3 mm, ya que puedes dañar los cables de la pantalla.

    If you have flat feeler gauges (for adjusting engine valve tappet clearance, ignition points … old school) the .003” thick gauge goes right in. Work your way up in thickness until you can get the pic or supplied pry tool in. Don’t insert metal feeler gauge in too far, just enough to hold crack open. I didn’t need to use the suction cup. I used a hot/cold gel pack heated in microwave to heat edges to soften glue a bit. Made sure it wasn’t so hot I couldn’t stand it on my skin.

    William Olstad - Contestar

  12. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 12, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 12, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 12, imagen 3 de 3
    • El borde superior de la pantalla está asegurado con pegamento y clips.

    • Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior de la pantalla, mientras tiras suavemente o mueve la pantalla hacia abajo en la dirección del puerto Lightning.

    • Los clips se romperán si usas demasiada fuerza. Trabaja con cuidado y se paciente.

    • No insertes tu púa más de 3 mm, ya que puedes dañar el conjunto de sensores del panel frontal.

    • Desliza la púa hacia la esquina opuesta y corte cualquier adhesivo restante que asegure la pantalla.

    These are the best instructions I’ve ever read for anything.! Thank you!

    Peter Andrew - Contestar

  13. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 13, imagen 1 de 1
    • Tira de la pequeña protuberancia en la ventosa para remover el panel frontal.

  14. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 14, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 14, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 14, imagen 3 de 3
    • Abre el iPhone moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como si abrieras la contratapa de un libro.

    • No trates de separar completamente la pantalla aun ya que varios frágiles cables planos todavía la conectan con la placa lógica del iPhone.

    • Como se muestra, asegúrate de que el marco salga con la pantalla y no se quede atascado en el teléfono.

    • Apoya la pantalla contra algo para mantenerla en alto mientras trabajas con el teléfono.

    • Durante el ensamblado, alinea los clips a lo largo del borde superior y con cuidado presiona el borde superior en su lugar antes de encajar el resto de la pantalla. Si no se encaja fácilmente, verifica la condición de los clips alrededor del perímetro de la pantalla para asegurarte que no estén doblados.

    My phone came apart in a different way and looks not right the little box at the top of the display as actually bolted to the top of the frame body I think something went really wrong when I opened it.

    Mike Kostersitz - Contestar

    It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way — only as far as shown in the photo. Otherwise it will strain the thin cable that connects the sensor module and then no more FaceID for you (or, as it turns out me). This could have been made more explicit in the instructions.

    Richard Tucker - Contestar

    It opens like a book but be careful not to open it all the way  … the small stainless steel tabs that hold the screen around the metal frame, that are on the bend place (right side of the phone)… are tend to bend, you can straighten them back to 90 deg. but the plastic base that they are on? very fragile- watch out not to break the plastic bezel … it may come apart of the glass.

    dabur872 - Contestar

    Advice for re-assembly: Before closing up the phone with the seal, check if phone is powering up again and speaker, mic and sensors are still working. If done this check even before installing the board connector bracket in Step 13.

    Alexander Nowak - Contestar

  15. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X, Ensamblaje de pantalla: paso 15, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remueve los cinco tornillos Y000 que sujetan el soporte de conector de la placa lógica y que tienen los siguientes largos:

    • Tres tornillos de 1.1 mm

    • Un tornillo de 3.1 mm

    • Un tornillo de 3.7 mm

    • Durante esta reparación, lleva la cuenta de cada tornillo y asegúrate de que vaya exactamente al mismo lugar de donde salió para evitar dañar tu iPhone.

    One thing I found helpful for replacing the screws was to use only the 000screwdriver tip, without the handle. This way, the tip isn’t magnetized and the screw doesn’t tend to ‘roll’ off the screwdriver tip (the screw has almost no mass, so the head (largest surface) is pulled around to the side of the screwdriver tip when magnetized).

    Rich May 23, 2020

    ungodly - Contestar

    My 3.1mm screw had a stripped head, could not remove it. (Factory defect, this iPhone was never opened)

    So I had to give up removing the display assembly, and jumped directly to battery replacement, Step 20.

    That was tricky as I had to keep the display at 90º with a risk of breaking display connectors, but hopefully the replacement went well.

    I would not recommend to do this but to follow the guide, but, in case someone encounters a similar issue, that could help!

    vingu - Contestar

    My 1.1mm screw had a stripped head. Used a 3mm steel drill to cut the head off (just 1 mm deep haha) so i could remove the bracket.

    Renout - Contestar

    Be careful on reassembly. Keep the screen supported and not moving. I had difficulty getting the screws in and ended up ruining the screen connectivity at the back of the screen where the ribbon cables go in near the center. I was trying to hand hold the screen and it ended up moving around too much.

    SETH GREEN - Contestar

    To keep track of the screws, I copy the photos showing their places, then arrange these photos on document in Pages, print it. Next I apply two sided sticky tape (the roll-on type). So all screws have their corresponding places …

    Max Glanzmann - Contestar

  16. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 16, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remueve el soporte.

    • El soporte puede estar ligeramente adherido en su lugar. Levanta cuidadosamente para separarlo.

    • Durante el reensamblaje es un buen momento de encender tu iPhone para verificar las funciones antes de sellar la pantalla en su lugar. Asegúrate de apagar tu iPhone completamente antes de seguir trabajando.

    I tested it, then proceeded to close up the device without the bracket. Do I need to reopen and install? All connections are good?

    monastra7 - Contestar

    The bracket helps those many connectors underneath maintain good contact. Probably in the short term nothing bad will happen, but I’d hang onto the bracket and reinstall it when convenient.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Agree with Jeff

    cgtyoder -

    I tested all imaginable functionality on the new OLED screen. Taptics are fine. Then, I noticed that the battery wasn't charging. Any ideas as to what could have gone wrong?

    Monica - Contestar

    for me, the replacement battery was completely dead, small panic when the power-on button was pressed, but quickly realised that this was the situation, and now watching the phone take a power cycle.

    James Stanbridge - Contestar

    Before clicking the screen assembly back, I tried to test the iPhone by pushing the start button, but nothing happened. After taking off the bracket, reseating the plugs I tried again - nothing happened! Then I plugged in the charging cable connected with the iMac, and it started immediately. So if the phone does not start using the startup button, it might just be a glitch when reconnecting the battery.

    Max Glanzmann - Contestar

  17. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 17, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 17, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa la punta de un spudger o una uña para hacer palanca en el conector de la batería y levantarlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Trata de no dañar el sello de silicona negra que rodea este y otras conexiones de placa. Estos sellos proporcionan protección adicional contra la entrada de agua y polvo.

    • Dobla el conector para separarlo de la placa lógica para prevenir que entre accidentalmente en contacto con el zócalo y que proporcione alimentación al teléfono durante la reparación.

    cosa può succedere se non si disconnette la scheda logica'?

    luca.valli - Contestar

    note: be careful not to crush or puncture your battery at this step!! I gave mine a minor dent, which I hope wont be a problem.. but something to keep in mind for fxlks in the future!

    Noal Balint - Contestar

    Thanks, already did it)

    Stephen Hedrick -

  18. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 18, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 18, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa la punta de un spudger o una uña para desconectar el conector del ensamblaje del sensor del panel frontal.

  19. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 19, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 19, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa la punta de un spudger o una uña para desconectar el conector de cable de panel OLED.

    • Para volver a colocar los conectores de prensa como este, alinea con cuidado y presiona hacia abajo en un lado hasta que encaje en su lugar, luego repite en el otro lado. No presiona hacia abajo en el medio. Si el conector está desalineado, los pasadores pueden doblarse, causando daños permanentes.

    Snap ‘em in like little Legos.

    Ray Johnson - Contestar

    Maybe the manual should flip step 17 and 18 (as the digitizer cable from 18, is in the way of the OLED cable of step 17) ?

    Renout - Contestar

  20. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 20, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 20, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el conector del cable de digitalizador de su zócalo.

    • La ubicación empotrada de este conector dificulta la reconexión. Tómate tu tiempo y alinéalo con cuidado, luego presiona suavemente en su lugar con la yema del dedo, primero un lado y luego el otro. Deberías sentir que hace clic en su lugar

    • Si alguna parte de tu pantalla no responde al tacto después de su reparación, desconecta la batería y vuelve a colocar el conector, asegurándote de que encaje completamente en su lugar y de que no haya polvo u otra obstrucción en el zócalo.

    This was probably the hardest part other than trying to get the screen off with the crappy suction cups. I re-installed the bracket only the find out that the touch screen would not respond to touch. Had to remove the five screws, remove the bracket and reseat the recessed screen connector. Reseating the bracket took another 10+ minutes. I carefully used the angled forceps to grab the cable and align the connector being careful not to damage the cable.

    Once you have the connector seated, I would reconnect the battery, power on the phone, and check the touch screen response before re-installing the bracket (step 13).

    Tawan Khamapirad - Contestar

    Yeah, this was probably the trickiest part of the reassembly. The power connector cable kept getting in the way so I moved it carefully but fully out of the way. Then it was a matter of fiddling around with it a bit and being careful not to force it on.

    Jeffrey Hoy -

    I was positive that I had messed something up, I had powered up the phone to test three different times and everything seemed find except there was no touch at all. On my fourth attempt, I carefully examined everything for dust and debris (blowing gently), and I did notice that a corner of the connector (more like part of the ribbon) was bent slightly, and I straightened it. I don't know if it was the ribbon or some tiny debris, but after reseating a fourth time, it worked.

    Pol Llovet - Contestar

    Very important part of the tutorial. Be careful and patience! In my case the screen and camera didn't respond after assemble, so I tried again to reconnect the connector like tutorial said and it worked well. Now my iPhone feel like a new one 💪🏼

    Efrain Maestre - Contestar

  21. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 21, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 21, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 21, imagen 3 de 3
    • El cable flexible de ensamblaje de sensor de panel frontal está adherido en su lugar.

    • Con cuidado levanta el cable hasta que el adhesivo se separe.

    Do this sensor affect face id?

    bonglkv - Contestar

    It is part of the face id part so yes. This is the ear piece too so if the ribbon tears there is a chance the ear piece will stop working as well.

    Stephen Patterson - Contestar

    Be super careful handling this ribbon particularly. I did a battery install and, when I was done, I had a phone with a new battery and no Face ID. That’s a $300 Apple repair, and no 3rd party shop will touch it. I believe the ribbon lays vertically (i.e., perpendicular to the “floor” of the phone, against the side edge of the battery. During the re-install, I must have forced the ribbon into position after seating the connector, causing fatal flexing of the ribbon. (Don’t know this for sure, but I see another comment saying that this cable is part of Face ID.) Anyway, bottom line: BE CAREFUL REMOVING AND REINSTALLING THIS RIBBON!

    Jonathan Pines - Contestar

    My flex cable was more than lightly adhered in place. I needed to use a guitar pic or similar to help encourage adhesive to separate. I wouldn’t pull too hard like shown in pictures unless you had just the right grip on the ribbon cable so as to avoid damaging flex cable. See note above (5/31/20)

    William Olstad - Contestar

    Bizarre — it turns out my whole front panel sensor assembly came entire off of the front screen and is stuck to the logic board.

    Karl Jarvis - Contestar

    I also found the glue quite recluctant to release so I applied a second or two of heat using the wife's hair dryer which softened it and the cable lifted much easier then. Be careful not to apply too much heat though which could then impact other internal components.

    LosBenitos - Contestar

    Cho ít cồn 90° vào để mềm keo dễ tháo

    huuhaukimngan - Contestar

    my iphone x doesn't have a front panel sensor? in fact, it looks completely different than the picture???

    Kenneth McLeod - Contestar

    @kennethmcleod, most likely you've separated the screen frame from the screen itself. We see this most commonly when people neglect to remove the pentalobe screws next to the charging port. Usually the cure is to take out those screws, then repeat the screen removal process on the frame that's still attached to the phone.

    Jerry Wheeler -

    You don't need to disconnect the front sensor to change the screen. Just leave it connected and remove from the screen side.

    Anthony Boshell - Contestar

  22. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 22, imagen 1 de 1

    I tried this and broke the cable can it still repair

    Alexis Rodriguez - Contestar

    At this point I would have found it easier to remove the glue from the edges than later on when I was reassembling it. I bought the kit that had the replacement glue in it.

    Grant - Contestar

    Excellent guide! Would love to have a link to moving the sensor assembly from the old display to the new here.

    Nicole - Contestar

    CAUTION:

    Removing the Taptic Engine or Speaker in next step is optional and the guide continues as this was per se needed.

    Unnecessary work and also If you remove the speaker you lose the adhesive gasket and this is not included in the scope of delivery of the "Battery replacement" offering.

    So do not remove and avoid losing waterproofing.

    Julian Gonzalez - Contestar

  23. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X, Ensamblaje de altavoz frontal y sensor de auriculares: paso 23, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira el tornillo Y000 de 1.2 mm en la parte posterior del ensamblaje de la pantalla, cerca del puerto de la cámara de infrarrojos.

    Not sure as of what to do now, I have stripped this screw.

    Kelvin - Contestar

    It might be your driver tip that is no good. Try a new driver tip Y000

    carol - Contestar

    when I opened my iPhone the screw was already stripped, I had the phone once at an Apple store for repair about 2 years ago. Had not opened it in between so it seems they stripped the screw there or it came like that from the factory. Any ideas? I don’t want to try and force it out.

    Mike Kostersitz - Contestar

    Be careful: the metal clip beneath this screw it’s really small, make sure not losing it.

    Luca Ciprian - Contestar

    Steps 19 and on are all on the screen you just removed. Not the phone side. I didn’t look closely at the image and just went for the screw in roughly the same place on the phone body side. First warning sign it’s a phillips - but more importantly I was working on the entirely wrong piece. I guess you’ll probably figure it out faster than I did.

    Big Nerd - Contestar

    FYI: My iphone XS has a slightly different screw position for the one shown to have a “clip”. There is no clip for this screw on mine. Maybe a rev update because of the clip getting lost and being hard to reinstall?

    William Olstad - Contestar

    FYI - The sensor assembly of the replacement looks a bit different from my original one. The screw is located further to the right on the original. As a result, I am unable to attach the sensor assembly on the replacement part, because the fixture is at a different position.

    Unfortunately, there’s nothing I can do about it apart asking for a refund.

    Alexander Nowak - Contestar

    Screws at my Iphone X are normal,but even w heat,i cant take them off,and even the strongest member of my family cant do this

    Matej Sedivec - Contestar

  24. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 24, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 24, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 24, imagen 3 de 3
    • Debajo del tornillo que acabas de quitar, se encuentra un pequeño clip metálico de conexión a tierra. Si no salió con el tornillo, quítalo ahora.

    • Durante el montaje, orienta el clip como se muestra. Sostén el clip en su posición mientras instalas y aprietes el tornillo.

    sin ese clip la señal wifi se recibe a duras penas

    Harizola Taberna Margari - Contestar

    Is there a way to just buy the gold grounding clip because my phone cannot search for wifi anymore!

    Anonymous - Contestar

    Is there any way we buy the ground metal clip separately please if there’s a way to get it emailed me

    Sisthanu Iman - Contestar

    Reinstalling this clip + screw is super hard =P

    Josh Estelle - Contestar

    It is pretty difficult without using a zoom in. A 2nd iphone camera zoomed in at 8x while using magnetic screwdrivers makes the job a little easier

    Bill McNamara -

    Screw Gasket Ear Speaker for Apple iPhone X Replacement Repair Phone Part Speak

    riosbenny09 - Contestar

    This looks different on my iPhone X. There’s no clip. It turns out that the replacement screen is NOT compatible with my iPhone. See my comment on Step 23. Must be a different HW revision. The whole front sensor assembly casting is a bit different. After replacing 2 screens of older iPhone generations this is my first failure due to HW incompatibility. From here on forward I probably won’t attempt another major smart phone repair. Technology is getting to complex for DIY. Will buy an iPhone 13 Pro with insurance (even though it’s utterly overpriced and I always like the DIY challenge)…

    Alexander Nowak - Contestar

    it’s not technology that’s getting more advanced, it’s apple creating more barriers between a DIY repair vs funneling your hard earned dollar into apple care and the Genius Bar

    aburningstariv -

    I did the same thing here - its the x vs xs and my partner ordered the part

    I ripped off the side clips and ones in wrong place (put the old screen next to it - and rip them off with needle nose plyers (in a rolling motion so you get each solder one at a time)). the smaller clips that had enough room i left.. then i could force the screen on.

    And its working ...... lets see for how long - the sealant and small clips seem to be holding it together ok

    Archie Ko -

    Que pasa si no pones ese clip?

    ferxi sabee - Contestar

  25. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 25, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira otros dos tornillos Y000 que sujetan el ensamblaje del altavoz / sensor:

    • Un tornillo de 1.6 mm

    • Un tornillo de 1.3 mm

    What do you do if the 1.6mm tripoint screw won’t come out…? I think it may be stripped :(

    Salvatore Boenzi - Contestar

    You could try using an old screwdriver & carefully adding a dab of superglue to the screw to attach it to the screwdriver, Then the screw may come out, Superglue’s strength is holding 2 pieces together when the stress point is pulling the 2 pieces away from each other. Superglue becomes surprisingly easy to break when twisting the 2 pieces. So be careful since the rotation of the screw will put the stress point at the weakest of the glue’s strength.

    Sandman619 - Contestar

    I would suggest:

    1. Try a small precision flat head, a good quality one, I bought some that were supposed to be to remove stripped screws, about 20-30 bucks for 4 or 5 of them, and they have saved my butt many times.

    2. I have been able to remove stripped screws with wire cutters. Or you can try some vamp pliers but they are probably too large for this situation.

    3. If the last two fail, the course of action is to basically destroy the head of that screw (assuming you are removing the stuff you need for your new lcd, which is very likely) they have drill bits called easy outs or screw removing drill bit, which is a drill bit with the spiral going the opposite direction (for a screw that tiny you can take a small drill bit, cut and sharpen the end that normally has no spiral, I have made that work in the past) the point is that as you drill in, the drill bit is digging and moving counterclockwise, so at some point as it digs in it will get “stuck” and keep spinning go the screw, thus removing it.

    Victor Miranda - Contestar

    what to do if during assembly the 1.6mm doesn’t want to go in it’s hole in the new screen but it fits perfectly in the old one??

    Khalil - Contestar

  26. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 26, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 26, imagen 2 de 2
    • El altavoz del auricular está ligeramente adherido en su lugar.

    • Con un spudger, haz palanca suavemente debajo del borde superior del ensamblaje del altavoz y dale la vuelta hacia arriba y hacia abajo, alejándolo del borde superior de la pantalla.

    • El altavoz permanece conectado a través de un cable flexible muy delgado. Ten cuidado de no tensar ni dañar el cable.

    i damage the cable, where can i buy a replacemnt

    Haoyu Li - Contestar

  27. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 27, imagen 1 de 1
    • Usa un secador de pelo o una pistola de calor o prepara un iOpener y aplíquelo en la parte superior frontal de la pantalla durante aproximadamente un minuto, para suavizar el adhesivo que sujeta los sensores.

    que temperatura debe tener una estacion de calor para hacer el trabajo del iopener

    mismac - Contestar

    I could not have done this without the iOpener, it was worth the investment!

    Bill Debevc - Contestar

  28. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 28, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 28, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 28, imagen 3 de 3
    • Desliza con cuidado el borde plano de su spudger debajo del cable flexible debajo del micrófono.

    • Gíralo suavemente para separar el micrófono, teniendo cuidado de no forzar o dañar el cable flexible.

    • Si es necesario, usa la punta del spudger para terminar de separar el micrófono de su muesca en el panel frontal.

  29. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 29, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 29, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 29, imagen 3 de 3
    • Trabajando de izquierda a derecha, desliza una selección de apertura debajo del cable flexible y debajo del sensor de proximidad + módulo de iluminador de inundación.

    • Mueva y levante suavemente para separar el módulo de su muesca en el panel frontal.

    • Es útil levantar y mantener el altavoz fuera del camino para acceder. Solo ten cuidado de no tirar del cable flexible delgado mientras trabaja.

    i can i purchase this part

    M. Brown - Contestar

    yes mr.brown, you can

    MadMan2207 - Contestar

    if you interrupt a small part of that black tape, is the piece of Face ID/micro phone unrecoverable?

    green_g - Contestar

  30. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 30, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 30, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa pinzas para mover el sensor de luz ambiental y levántalo de su muesca en la pantalla.

    • El sensor permanece unido al resto del conjunto del sensor a través de un cable flexible muy delgado. Ten cuidado de no tensar ni dañar el cable.

  31. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 31, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 31, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 31, imagen 3 de 3
    • Si eliminaste con éxito todo el sensor de luz ambiental, como se muestra en la primera foto, continúa con el siguiente paso a continuación.

    • Si la tira difusora blanca se desprende y permanece incrustada en la pantalla, como se muestra en la segunda foto, deberás sacarla con cuidado a lo largo del borde superior con una herramienta de cuchilla o palanca. Volver a aplicar calor primero puede hacer esta tarea un poco más fácil.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, instala primero el difusor en la pantalla, asegurándose de que esté orientado en la dirección correcta (el lado orientado hacia el frente se muestra en la primera imagen y el lado orientado hacia atrás se muestra en la tercera).

    • Luego, coloca el sensor de luz ambiental en la parte superior del difusor. Deberás mantener el sensor en su posición mientras instala los tornillos que sujetan el conjunto del auricular / sensor. Una vez que los tornillos estén apretados, el sensor permanecerá en su lugar y funcionará normalmente.

    quá rõ ràng, cảm ơn ifixit

    Dang Tuan - Contestar

    In my case the diffuser came out with the light sensor, but not completely. A layer of the diffuser was left behind in the recess. We will see how it goes. ;) I will report back.

    Pol Llovet - Contestar

    what colour is the diffuser

    James Thomas (Tom) - Contestar

    also can you show the position of sensors going back into the new screen

    James Thomas (Tom) - Contestar

  32. Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 32, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 32, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del altavoz del auricular y el sensor frontal del iPhone X: paso 32, imagen 3 de 3
    • Retira el altavoz del auricular y el conjunto del sensor frontal.

    • Durante el montaje, verifica la posición del módulo de plástico negro que contiene estos componentes:

    • Sensor de proximidad

    • Iluminador de inundaciones

    • El módulo debe colocarse de manera que estos componentes no queden obstruidos por ningún adhesivo.

    there was no bracket on my new screen I purchased from here.. am I supposed to heat up and remove the old one, or was their supposed to be one on the new screen ??

    0perationguttertech - Contestar

    @br0k3nilluzion If your new display didn’t come with a front camera frame, you can (and should) remove the old one from your broken display and transfer it over. Use heat and careful wiggling/prying to remove it—and if it’s stubborn, add a few drops of isopropyl alcohol. Hope this helps!

    Jeff Suovanen - Contestar

    Does face-id stop working if the black plastic separates from the flex(The orange and red dot)?

    tharshan91 - Contestar

    If the black plastic piece with the flood illuminator and the proximity sensor is separated from the flex cable, then Face ID will definitely not work. Be very careful not to damage any of the parts in the front sensor assembly.

    Adam O'Camb -

    There is some sort of a tape in front of the flood illuminator which is not present on the replacement screen! Is that gonna cause a problem too?

    BTW, it’s so difficult to position the front camera frame without glue. I guess it takes a few attempts of trial and error!

    shoeib - Contestar

    It might not cause any major problems, but there’s a chance that it could effect FaceID functionality. If possible, transfer the tape from the old screen to the new one.

    Adam O'Camb -

    I find it better, regardless of if your new screen comes with the transparent front camera frame, to remove the front sensor assembly from the old screen with the frame, and lifting up the whole assembly using the frame. That way you do not need to apply heat directly to the fragile assembly, but apply it to the other side, the front of the screen at the top, instead, to soften the frame adhesive. The frame is then usually easy to pry loose using a narrow spudger, and comes off cleanly. After that it is much easier to remove the sensors and microphone from the frame, no heat needed usually. And if your new screen doesn’t come with the frame, just plonk the whole frame/sensor assembly down in the right place, and boom, Bob’s your uncle.

    Lars - Contestar

    Hello I have an iPhone X i Bought it in 2019 with Face ID not working ( not available try later ) I think the screen was changed with another original , tru tone Off , Als off no auto brightness (and the PROXIMITY SENSOR too ! ) no black screen in calls, i would like to ask u if the earpiece speaker flex was changed with another one (all components ) not the original , did proximity sensor still work ?? Because I don’t know is the original flex of my iphone or not ? I found some scratches in the flex it appears to have small cut so I don’t know the PROXIMITY SENSOR not working because there are a small cut in the flex or because the flex is not the same ?? And if the flex is not the original it can disable (proximity sensor)too not only flood and als ?? Thank you

    Ach - Contestar

    Yes it should still work. If you change the assembly to one that isn’t original to that iPhone X everything except the FaceID should still work - I have done so several times for clients. So the reason for yours not working is probably the same small scratches and cuts you have seen. The cable is a bit fragile and some of the copper leads running through it are extremely thin.

    Lars -

    To keep True Tone function on the replacement screen you’ll need a chip data programmer EEPROM to copay data from the old screen onto the new one. There a device called JC-V1 which should do the trick.

    Yousef Ghalib - Contestar

    Screen glitching slightly after changing the screen. Any suggestion to what it can be?

    Tim Morell - Contestar

    Tim. I had a glitchy screen as well. It would force touch out of nowhere, and “ghost touch” every now and then. Eventually, the top half of the screen stopped responding. Reach out to customer service ASAP. You may have a defective screen.

    Alex Hurtado -

    My front ear speaker not working . The mic it’s working . Apple said you have to replace all the screen to fix the ear speaker because it’s connected with one cable all together. If I buy the speaker and change it myself it will work after or I’m getting into trouble?

    josh - Contestar

    I have the same problem. I have the same problem. how did you solve?

    xX_Sn4k3x_Xx - Official -

    Be sure to remove the blue protective film from the BACK of a replacement screen.

    Jim Breef - Contestar

    Thank you so much for this. It does not look at all like it needs to be removed.

    Pol Llovet -

    Thank you, Jim, came here just to look for that advice!

    seth hollub -

    can this piece assembly cause for the back camera and flashlight not work? All I did was change the screen and transfer this earpiece and it says warning sign that the flashlight needs to cool down and back camera not working

    Dulce Vidal - Contestar

    disregard my last post, problem solved on my end customer had a bad back camera due to bad fall and so i replaced it and now the back camera and flashlight works. :)

    Dulce Vidal - Contestar

    Hello I replaced today the second time iphone x display. The first time after a while the front camera stopped working. Today mounted the second time the display and the front camera works, while the rear one does not work. What can I do? Thanks

    Mimmo Cordola - Contestar

    if you interrupt a small part of that black tape, is the piece of Face ID/microphone unrecoverable at all?

    green_g - Contestar

Conclusión

Compara tu nueva pieza de repuesto con la pieza original; es posible que debas transferir los componentes restantes o quitar los respaldos adhesivos de la pieza nueva antes de instalar.

Para volver a montar tu dispositivo, sigue los pasos anteriores en orden inverso.

¿La reparación no salió según lo planeado? Consulta nuestra

para obtener ayuda para la solución de problemas.

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Adam O'Camb

Miembro Desde 04/11/15

195,355 Reputación

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23 comentarios

Is it possible to fix the ““Face ID Is Not Available” problem? There seems to be a problem with the TrueDepth camera. Thanks!

Alejandro D - Contestar

@alejandrod I’m afraid Face ID won’t work if this part is replaced. As stated in the introduction, this component is paired to the logic board from the factory (similar to the home button on earlier iPhones). Currently, if you need to replace this part, you’ll have to sacrifice Face ID, or else pay Apple directly to perform the repair. (They have a software calibration tool that pairs the new part to your phone to re-enable Face ID, but they don’t share it with anyone outside of Apple.)

Jeff Suovanen -

The flex cable was too bent, and now is broken. I’m going to buy another flex cable, but… Are there any ways to recover the Face ID functionality? Desoldering some components from the old one and weld them in the new flex cable?

Andrea Giacon - Contestar

Flex cables can be repaired by a skilled microsolderer. It’s not a DIY however. If it’s a phone you care about, you’ll want to find yourself a good repair shop with the right equipment and skills. Apple can also repair it, but they will most likely just charge you $279 to replace the entire screen.

Jeff Suovanen -

My proximity sensor is defective and puts my phone in a boot loop when connected. To replace that, would I need to use a skilled microsolderer to replace that?

oosaghae - Contestar

My earpiece is broken would replacing mean that I’m sacrificing Face ID?

Mujtaba Suhrawardy - Contestar

Just did mine, and yes, my face ID doesn’t work anymore.

Dane Frederick -

Hey does anyone know what’s wrong with my Iphone X. I thought I had a blown ear speaker. So I just replaced the assembly, but after reassembling it doesn’t sound any different. Anyone speaking is extremely quiet. And yes my Bluetooth is off, no I don’t have any headphones in it. and the volume is all the way up. Any other ideas what is happening? It has been a major inconvenience to have to put everyone on speaker phone just to talk to them.

Dane Frederick - Contestar

Have you checked the speaker grille/mesh to make sure it’s clean? They can get clogged with pocket lint over time, blocking sound from the speaker.

Jeff Suovanen -

شكرا علي كلشيء

Corva Loco - Contestar

Hi All,

I replaced the screen on the iPhone X and now the camera and face ID don’t work. The camera app is black when I open it. I can’t test the proximity sensor because there is no cell service on the phone. I assumed I damaged the flex cable so I put a new one in and same result.

I put the original flex back on the original screen and same result. I am not sure if face ID or the camera was working before the repair. I normally check what is working and what isn’t, but I forgot to this time.

Thanks!

Mitch - Contestar

Hey i was repair my iphone x battery when this broke off. i bought a new earpiece thing and the sensor part but i heard that apple pairs specific parts to the logic board so if i replace it will the mic still work?

Mak - Contestar

I lost the screw and grounding clip. Your step 21, “Beneath the screw you just removed lies a small metal grounding clip. “ Any ideal where I can get the screw and grounding clip?

Melvin Hamill - Contestar

Your step 21, “Beneath the screw you just removed lies a small metal grounding clip. “ I have lost the screw and grounding clip. Any ideal where I can find the screw and grounding clip/

Thank you

MEL

Melvin Hamill - Contestar

I have replaced the battery, the dock connector and this component and I forgot to install the grounding clip while closing the phone. Now everything works expect the charging; the phone recognizes the charger as an accessory but it does not charge at all. It charges only if it is not powered on (without showing any charging symbol, by the way). Do you know if this might be due to this missing grounding clip? Thanks!

Andrea Giammanco - Contestar

Hola, con este proceso mi face id dejará de funcionar?

Saludos desde México!

Horlando Anzures Quiroz - Contestar

Correcto, no funcionará

Terranova -

Si el Face ID deja de funcionar.

Terranova - Contestar

What adhesive do you recommend for reattaching the earpiece speaker on to the replacement display?

mcvtech - Contestar

I have iPhone X and the ear speaker not working. But I have one more iPhone X with cracked screen. Can I remove the ear speaker from the second  iPhone and replace it to my iPhone? Is the Face ID will work after if it’s original Apple part?

josh - Contestar

Can I replace the earpiece speaker without also replacing the front sensor assembly?

Rosie Tabachnick - Contestar

The earpiece flex is cut a little so my ear speaker stopped working is there any way to do this

black emmah - Contestar

Could you recommend someone near me that can repair a flex cable? Westfield,Massachusetts

Louis - Contestar

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