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LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador

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  1. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador, Tornillos Pentalobe: paso 1, imagen 1 de 1
    • Antes de comenzar, descarga la batería de tu iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de iones de litio cargada puede incendiarse y / o explotar si se perfora accidentalmente.

    • Apaga tu iPhone antes de comenzar el desmontaje.

    • Remueve los dos tornillos pentalobe de 3.4 mm en el borde inferior del iPhone.

    • Abrir la pantalla del iPhone dañará sus sellos impermeables. Ten sellos de reemplazo listos antes de seguir con el próximo paso o ten cuidado de evitar la entrada de líquidos si vuelves a ensamblar tu iPhone sin reemplazar los sellos.

    Can anyone confirm 7/7P's pentalobe screws have a ring of seal near the screw head?

    Cooper Chase - Contestar

    Confirmed, the screws have a black ring seal around the head.

    rcheing - Contestar

    Can’t get the display front

    Bernadette Pfeifer - Contestar

    From personal experience, I highly recommend before doing this procedure or any other, that you do a backup of your phone (preferably local) in case your procedure goes south.

    ballina5ny - Contestar

    I purchased the repair tools with the replacement battery from iFixit. The tools include a screw driver and three heads none were labeled 3.4 mm. I think the one that fit the pentalobe screws was labeled Y000. The guide should identify the screw driver head supplied by the kit not 3.4mm.

    Mark Lieberman - Contestar

    in the iphone 7 replacement battery kit from iFixit, the screwdriver that fits the 3.4 mm pentalobe screws is labeled P2 (and not Y000)

    Jan-Tijn Oppermann -

    3.4 mm is the height of the screw and is not related to the screw driver code.

    Ahmad Vaziri -

    the screwdriver PH000 does not work i wasted two screws and now they dont have the 4 cross mark they are now a circle, i buyed it all from Paraguay and it doesnt work, had to assembly back the parts because i got stuck like i mention with some screws, well im just going to send to a professional to install, thanks

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Contestar

    The bottom screws are Pentalobe, not Phillips.

    Bram Driesen -

    Before starting, I would recommend backing up your Iphone’s data just in case.

    Jon Moylan - Contestar

    If you managed to make it to this section, just send the phone into apple for 50 + 6 dollars shipping. The ribbon cables on the screen are designed to break. I can literally twist on the rest of the cable and it won’t fall apart but there is a diagonal section where it snaps. This is the fault of apple and the fault of ifixit for misrepresenting the fragility of the cables.

    Ryan Huebert - Contestar

    Had to reheat it a few times for a minute each with a hairdryer to get the seal to break after pulling and rocking the suction

    Cynthia Lamb - Contestar

    I’m technically challenged. Is there a premier national service who can professionally install a replacement battery got my 7 +?

    Richard - Contestar

    Do the screws come out in total?

    YVES THEUGELS - Contestar

    They may come out or may not. If you loosen as much as you can and they don't come out you should still be able to pry open the bottom. Once you get the screen off you can then push the screws out from the inside.

    Anthony Falabella -

    Is it the P2 you should use for the bottom??

    YVES THEUGELS - Contestar

    I heated the bottom of the phone with a hairdryer and then used a syringe to put a couple of drops of acetone directly into the bottom two screw holes. I GENTLY pulled on the screen with the suction cup and used the pry tool to GENTLY separate the screen. The sealant is applied around the entire display so be very careful pulling it off so you don’t break the fragile display cables.

    Anthony Scaminaci - Contestar

    At first it was very difficult to open, per instructions. I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, place the taptic engine before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit. Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.

    Klaus Preiss - Contestar

    I love the fact that the screw bit and shaft are magnetic! I almost lost a screw and found it attached to the magnet.

    I used a heat/ice pack and nuked it for 1 minute. At first the display cover was very difficult to open with the pry tool, per instructions. The pry tool wasn’t working so I carefully used the blade of my pocket knife to wedge the cover open. The rest of the procedure went well until I cracked the glass while trying to get the top right corner to pop off. Other than that mistake, all went well. Tip: before setting the new battery, attach the battery connector first and leave enough room for the taptic engine, or better yet, see the taptic engine in place before adhering the replacement battery. This way you’ll have a small gap between the two, whereas mine barely fit because I placed it almost too low.

    Good job on hosting the video, Gwendyl.

    Klaus Preiss - Contestar

    I replaced the lightning connector assembly and reassembled. The old one did not 'click' into the cable and had corrosion inside, it needed the cable to be placed in a specific way to charge. The new part - does not recognize that a charger is plugged in at all.

    I backtracked the assembly - took it apart, put it back again - and find that every thing on the part works - the mic, speakers, taptic engine.

    The original problem with the cable still persists. Any ideas?

    H K - Contestar

  2. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador, Cinta sobre la pantalla: paso 2, imagen 1 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador, Cinta sobre la pantalla: paso 2, imagen 2 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador, Cinta sobre la pantalla: paso 2, imagen 3 de 3
    • Si el cristal de la pantalla está agrietado, mantén unidos los trozos y evita lesiones corporales durante la reparación poniendo cinta adhesiva sobre el cristal.

    • Coloca cintas superpuestas sobre la pantalla del iPhone hasta cubrir toda la cara.

    • Esto mantendrá los fragmentos de vidrio contenidos y proporcionará integridad estructural al hacer palanca y levantar la pantalla.

    • Usa gafas de seguridad para proteger sus ojos de cualquier vidrio que pueda saltar durante la reparación.

    • Si el vidrio roto dificulta la colocación de una ventosa en los siguientes pasos, intenta doblar un trozo fuerte de cinta (como cinta adhesiva para ducto)en una esquina y levanta la pantalla con eso.

    In case of broken glass you can make the suction cup much more effective by covering the glass with a broad piece of translucent tape which eliminate air leakage through cracks in the glass.

    lionno1 - Contestar

    Il n’est pas nécessaire de mettre beaucoup de scotch.

    Au contraire plus vous mettez de scotch, plus il y aura de défauts et la ventouse ne collera pas.

    Une bande bien positionnée suffit.

    Chloé Bossuette - Contestar

    I’ve used hot glue on low setting to remove all types of crystals. The hot glue will release with a little iso alcohol. No damage to glass or plastic faced crystals or screens. Use a narrow piece of wood as a prying handle.

    Emilio Gonzalez - Contestar

    I recently had issues with removing the glass with the suction cup. I have done this many times with older generation iPhones but this time the glass seemed sealed on quite solidly. I told myself that the last option would be to use the screwdriver tip. After all my attempts, I transitioned to the option of using the screwdriver tip. Surprisingly, it was the easiest thing ever. I placed the 1mm flathead screwdriver at the interface between the glass and the cover (normal start location) and pried up very gently. Voila, the glass came up and I can’t even notice any dents or scratches. It felt much easier than the suction cup technique. If the suction cup is giving you a hard time consider using that 1mm flathead.

    forhereyesonly - Contestar

    This is definetly the best option to open this thing up. I’ve spend 30min with trying to heat it up and remove it using the suction cup. I needed 3sec with the 1mm flat screwdriver and i t was’nt scary at all. No dents nor scratches here too. Thanks for your comment.

    Berggorilla -

    thank you!!!!!

    Adrian Phan -

    Great suggestion to use the screwdriver!! Thanks, it really helped

    obo12759 - Contestar

    Duck Tape worked great for me. Thanks for the great instruction!

    Michael - Contestar

    Tried several types of tape but finally used this screw driver solution. At first I wasn't pushing hard enough for fear of damaging things but with just a bit of extra force I was able to open it right up. Everything is fine with only a slight scratch on the frame.

    Wesley Shank - Contestar

  3. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador, Procedimiento de apertura del iPhone 7: paso 3, imagen 1 de 1
    • Calentar el borde inferior del iPhone ayudará a suavizar el adhesivo que asegura la pantalla, facilitando su apertura.

    • Utiliza una pistola de calor o preparar un iOpener y aplicarlo en el borde inferior del iPhone durante un minuto para suavizar el adhesivo debajo.

    ¿Cuántos segundos son los recomendados?

    joscarlos91 - Contestar

    Sesenta segundos

    Krutav Shah -

    It is a process. I heated the lower area of the phone with a hair dryer on and off (1min each) about 3-4 times before I was able to get the provided tool in.

    Dan - Contestar

    I suggest using a hairdryer. I used the iOpener for maybe 30 mins to no avail. However, when I used the hairdryer the screen came of much quicker.

    Michael - Contestar

    I totally Mr. Myagi’ed it, by rubbing my hands together until they burned, then held the phone un my hot hands. I did this 5-6 times over a couple of minutes. It was a good zen way to get started!

    Ark - Contestar

    Can a heat gun be used?

    Lee - Contestar

    Absolutely. Just don’t overdo it—the adhesive usually softens up pretty easily. If you are experienced with a heat gun, you’ll have no problem. (If you are inexperienced, it’s easy to cook the display or cause other damage.)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If i use this process, will iphone 7 still be sealed, water/ splash resist after that?

    Marius Serban - Contestar

    Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Have replacement seals ready before you proceed past this step, or take care to avoid liquid exposure if you reassemble your iPhone without replacing the seals.

    Angel Hermida -

    Can I use a cpb heating pad to soften the adhesive ? If yes how much time and temperature ?

    davidecongiu - Contestar

    Will doing this compromise the screen protector (Zagg) that I have on my phone?

    Eric Nance - Contestar

    Hairdryer worked for me but I needed to use a razor to pry it open at the bottom then used the spudger

    Gina Torres - Contestar

    Is there a reason why you wouldn’t put the iopener over the entire length of the phone, instead of just the bottom corner?

    BPX - Contestar

    The motherboard is extremely sensitive to heat.

    Neal Reasland -

    Hello can the head damage the id touch bottom?

    After heating opening it stoped working.

    Qrizmasex @ gmail . Com

    aratovski - Contestar

    It definitely can. That happened to me.

    Steve Naylor -

    mine didnt come with a heat pack do i use a hair dryer

    Shy Rose - Contestar

    I just threw a hand towel in hot water, and then stuck it into a plastic bag. Dryers work fine, too.

    hiroo yamagata -

    Thanks for this, the other instructions make it seem SOOOOO simple to open up the case with the suction cup! It actually is hellish. The instruction here about the pre-heating and the required patience really helped!

    hiroo yamagata - Contestar

    For those of you who don’t have an iOpener or a girlfriend, I used a ziplock bag with some instant mashed potato inside. It worked perfectly first time and you can fold the bag around the ID button in order to prevent damage to it.

    You also get to celebrate by eating the mash afterwards, HUZZAH!

    Adrian - Contestar

    🤣 You made my day Adrian, thank you!

    Jicey -

    I found this to be completely useless. It didn’t help at all. I had to use a heat gun instead. Waste of money.

    David Gordon - Contestar

    I’ll experiment with leaving the phone in the sun until the Temperature Warning comes up so the phone tells me when it’s too hot to be safe.

    Maybe it will be hot enough, maybe it won’t—

    edmk5000 - Contestar

    I use a rice pack in the microwave. White dry rice in a sock sown or tied, then microwave (1 minute +/-). The dry rice heats and retains heat for a long time. My kids loved them in in bed during cold winter nights.

    Todd Oeftger - Contestar

    I have changed now Iphone 5 Battery, IPhone 7 front camera & another iPhone 7 rear camera. The instructions along with the comments are really important. Be patient & read them several times. By using your heated gel pack 3-4 times for 2 mins or so on the bottom end near the touch button you will be able to pry with your razor & then you can use your spudger. Thanks for this great guide.

    Kala - Contestar

    I would DEFINITELY recommend to NOT use direct heat (hair drier, etc.) on the phone. I used a hair drier to help heat the phone and ended up damaging the home button (would not work after the replacement and I did not touch or take apart the home button). Note that a damaged home button cannot be replaced so I will end up using the alternative “screen” home button going forward with my phone. Instead I would recommend preheating something else (example - metal / coins / ceramic / beads / glass stones / cookware / etc..) to a warm-to hot (but not burning hot) touch and place the heated items on the IPHONE (or visa versa) to heat and soften the adhesive.

    Ed Scannell - Contestar

    I used 1-gallon Ziploc back and poured 1qt of boiling water into it. I placed my iPhone on a corkboard and the bag on top for 120 sec.

    It worked like magic. I just pooled the screen with the suction cup, and it got loose from the case. No heat damage. Everything works.

    it500 - Contestar

    I placed the iOpener heat bag over the bottom of the phone, disregarding the home button. Now it doesn’t work. All subsequent procedures went well as I was very careful. I should have read all the posts! Protect the home button from direct heat. Fortunately, now using the Assistive Touch feature is better than buying a new phone or replacing the home button.

    Kurt Bee - Contestar

    It’s better to choose an iPhone back case to cover and protect your phone from bumps and scratches. Choosing premium cases is the best option for long-term safety. If you need ***iPhone 7 phone cases*** then you can check them out!

    FLAUNT - Contestar

  4. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 4, imagen 1 de 2 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 4, imagen 2 de 2
    • Conecta una ventosa a la mitad inferior del conjunto de la pantalla, justo por encima del botón de inicio.

    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa no se coloque sobre el botón de inicio, ya que esto evitará que se forme un sello entre la ventosa y el vidrio frontal.

    • Si tu pantalla está seriamente partida, cubrirla con una capa de cinta de embalar transparente puede ayudar en el agarre de la ventosa de succión. Alternativamente, se puede usar una cinta muy fuerte en lugar de la ventosa. Si todo lo demás falla, puedes pegar la ventosa de succión con superglue a la pantalla rota.

    The glass is completely cracked and the suction cup doesn't work because it gets air in between. any tip?

    Display is glued and doesn't come off.

    support - Contestar

    A wide, single strip of packing tape, well placed, will solve this for you. :)

    Mimic44444 - Contestar

    Last comment works well. Thank you !

    Using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in the description in Step 3.

    Cracked screen is most probably the reason you are replacing it.

    Arni Benediktsson - Contestar

    I agree that using packing tape for a cracked screen should be included in this steps description. I don’t have wide but turned mine horizontal and that worked great.

    Mary Knapp - Contestar

    Bekomme die Oberschale einfach nicht runter! Trotz mehrmaligem erwärmen durch den iOpener und seitlichen bewegen! Weiß nicht mehr weiter!

    Stephan Lienhard - Contestar

    Wouldn’t that screw up the Touch ID?

    Rexx Havok - Contestar

    The suction cup that is. supplied with the essentials kit doesn’t work that well.

    Laurence - Contestar

    Agreed, the iFixit suction cup was useless. I borrowed one from the sponge holder in my kitchen sink. It lacked a grip so I held it with needle-nose pliers, resting them on a bit of wood to keep pressure off the phone.

    ephraim -

    I am not getting this open at all! Why an I provided with tools that can't help me ??‍♀️

    Bray Joseph - Contestar

    I couldn’t get the bottom to lift first, but the left side did, so I started there and worked my way around the horn.

    selimnairb - Contestar

    Hold the suction cup provided in almost boiling water with tongs for about 30 seconds, then it will actually work :-)

    AKA - Contestar

  5. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 5, imagen 1 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 5, imagen 2 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 5, imagen 3 de 3
    • Tira hacia arriba de la ventosa para crear un pequeño espacio entre el ensamblaje de pantalla y la caja trasera.

    • Inserta el extremo plano de un spudger en el hueco.

    • El adhesivo que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar es muy fuerte, y la creación de esta separación inicial requiere una cantidad significativa de fuerza. Si te resulta difícil crear una abertura, oscila la pantalla hacia arriba y abajo para debilitar el pegamento hasta que puedas insertar el spudger.

    This was SO hard for me to do with the spudger. I couldn’t get a gap to insert it because my phone was so cracked (even though I used tape on the front) to get a solid seal with the suction cup. I ended up taking a VERY thin knife and inserting it straight down to make the initial break that allowed me to insert the spudger.

    jessica harlow - Contestar

    I’ve given up using a plastic spudger to try to open any of these phones. I use a metal one with a flat base and a very sharp end…close to a razor. As long as I’m careful, it won’t slip and scratch the base. It’s much easier than using these plastic spudgers.

    mcr4u2 -

    I confirm that the plastic spudger it’s not the best tool for this operation. I suggest to use a larger metal tool like a “Jimmy” or “iSesamo open tool” (I used the first one)

    Cristef -

    Im trying to get the screen off right now and my phone is not cracked and its still a pain

    Jordon Johnson - Contestar

    Using a blow dryer was extremely helpful and using the suction cup towards one of the lower edges was also helpful

    Jordon Johnson - Contestar

    This is not working for me. How long does the heat need to be applied? Still trying right now…. =/

    Chris Gallego - Contestar

    Apply hair dryer for at least 1 minute. I inserted the tip end of a thin mini screwdriver and with some force, pryed it open and inserted my plastic spudger to continue the separation process. It worked, just be patient.

    Please wear protective glasses! My iPhone glass was severely cracked, when separating the glass a corner area of broken glass exploded in my face. Apply transparent tape over the broken glass to contain the shards.

    amberron - Contestar

    I second Jessica’s January 8 comment.  I just finished a battery replacement on my iPhone 7 and this step was the most nerve-wracking part.  I ended up using a sharper (but not razor-sharp) metal object to get this done with confidence (tried the spudger and guitar pick but not thin enough).  The tool I used was the exact duplicate of what iFixIt calls “iSesamo Opening Tool” in their tool selection.  I did the heat up with a hair dryer (after attempts with an iOpener hot pad) and the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).  I actually used the metal tool for most of the perimeter as well, just don’t go deep (you don’t need to).  Notes: my display was intact, and I was able to pull up fairly hard with a glass screen protector still on it.

    Ted - Contestar

    This is frustrating. I heated the lower edge with a hair dryer for 1 min on high about 3-4 times. In between each heat cycle, I rocked the suction cup back and forth. I was eventually able to create significant space for the provided tool. This takes a lot of patience. Once the space was created, it was very easy to remove the screen.

    Dan - Contestar

    use a fingernail, then the blue tool, then the spudger

    Therese Peffer - Contestar

    The iOpener worked just fine for me. Had to keep it on for a few minutes. I also was able to get the suction cup seal right close to the edge, over top of the home button for added leverage. Used the blue tool and transitioned to the spudger. Slow, steady pressure…and patience. ;)

    johnhall918 - Contestar

    Unable to open an iPhone 7 display assembly. Used gell pack at 150 degrees F. The phone wouldn’t budge when I used the iFixit suction cut. Part of the problem is that the cup doesn’t adhere for long before it looses suction. I suspect it would work better on unbroken glass, but that doesn’t help me now. After spending a lot of time at this, I changed heating methods to a hot air heater. I raised the temp of the bottom end of the phone to, ultimately, 175 degrees, and used a variety of tools to try to pry the glass apart enough to get a spudger (or anything) in, but it didn’t even lift enough for a double-edged razor blade to get in. I’ve been trying this for hours now, and about to give up and throw a lot more money at this to have a service perform the work. I figured that 175 was as high as I should need to go to soften the adhesive without damaging the electronics. Should I have gone higher? I see no mention of measured temps in any instructions or comments.

    ted - Contestar

    Have you tried applying tape to the broken screen? This will help a lot with keeping the suction cup on it.

    Christian Groothuis -

    It doesn’t need to get very hot; pulling up on the display is mainly what does the trick. Make sure the two pentalobe screws have been removed and then try the tricks in this step. If all else fails, superglue the suction cup to your display and let it cure, and then pull. Keep in mind you only need a tiny gap to insert a plastic pick and start cutting the adhesive. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Just a question. After this operation the impermeability function was compromitted?

    bentek86 - Contestar

    The trick I found, was to add packing tape right across the bottom over the home button then use hairdryer on the end, then suction cup on the very bottom and it lifted enough to get a gap. No one mentioned how it would be impossible to handle the phone after the hairdryer ;)

    Andrew Lansdowne - Contestar

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Contestar

    I used a hair drier while lifting up at the same time until I could get the too inside. The seal is pretty finicky. Just take your time and you should be fine. Work the hair drier and the tool all the way around before lifting the screen up and off. There will likely be sealant stuck between the screen and phone. You can just break it with the tool.

    Ray Bieze - Contestar

    This step was impossible for me despite using a blow dryer and having no cracks on the screen. I finally took it to a local repair place and had them do battery replacements for two iPhone 7’s. The girl let me watch her do it. She used a razor blade (just until she had a small opening that she could hold open with her fingernail) and confirmed that she too would have difficulty opening it with a plastic tool and suction cup. The plastic tool was great for prying the rest of it open once a crack was there, but she said she would never try to use that as the tool to initially open it. The tools provided for initially prying open the screen are inadequate.

    Chad Twedt - Contestar

    Hopeless - no chance to get the screen off without any damage. No matter what tools, heat etc.

    Anatole Beams - Contestar

    I second what others have said, definitely use a razor blade to break the seal! Heat helps some, but too much direct heat is bad for the screen. Would have been impossible if I hadn’t read the comments, thanks everybody!

    Kit - Contestar

    Use extreme caution on this step. I was just replacing my battery and now i’m buying a new screen. The screen was very stuck, I pulled to hard and it popped off suddenly, completely destroying the screen.

    moose - Contestar

    When the right heat is reached, the easiest way is to use a metal iFlex to create the initial gap, then insert the Jimmy or iSesamo next to it so the gap gets bigger, at this point you can get in with the flat edge of a plastic spudger and slowly slide it in the borders to cut the adhesive. You will still need to force a bit the upper end to separate the screen by pulling it down while keeping up the screen, and twist to the right. I hope this is clear enough. Never apply too much strength too quickly anyway.

    Stefano Restuccia - Contestar

    I used the short blade of my swiss knife to make an initial opening. Using the sharp edge, inserting about 1 mm straight down and twisting down into a 45° angle. Then I was able to insert the spudger.

    John van de Loo - Contestar

    This is a difficult step. Fortunately, I had another suction cup from an earlier repair available, so I applied one to each side of the phone. After warming with a hair dryer, I was able to pull the two suction cups far enough away that another person could easily insert the spudger.

    The third hand was essential.

    Mark - Contestar

    I found this tactic to be the best solution for us. I used two suction cups, one on each side of the phone, and another set of hands to get a pry tool under the display. We still had to take our time prior while heating the adhesive, but were able to pry the display fairly easily using the two suction cup method.

    Lucas -

    It was a really excruciating process of heating, lifting with the suction cup, trying to slide in the spudger/pick, and repeating the process for 20 times or so. But in the end, my patience paid off!

    hiroo yamagata - Contestar

    I used a hair dryer, then used a safety razor blade parallel to the bottom edge to push straight down (from the glass side, towards the back) while lifting with the suction cup. I wiggled the blade (top to bottom) while pressing down gently, until I saw a gap that would accept the spudger. It did not take much force on the blade or much wiggling, just patience.

    Gene Merritt - Contestar

    Followed Gene’s approach with heat and a razor blade. I was nervous, but went slow; it was very easy and effective. Great tip. Just be patient and don’t rush yourself.

    Michael J - Contestar

    I would skip right to using a single edge razor blade and a hair dryer to create the gap needed for the spudger.

    Logan Brown - Contestar

    Think plunging the toilet - it did not work for me for a long time. the suction cup would not stay held on a long pull. I found that tiny push-pull repeated motions, reseating the suction cup with each push slowly overcame the adhesive, and contributed heat :). I had it after about 50-70 cycles

    Andrew Balanda - Contestar

    seconding this comment from Ted ~~~ “the secret (as Jessica also noted)  was to not use the angle of attack shown in the pictures, but to push it in more vertically along the bottom edge while pulling up on the suction cup.  From there you can easily lever the tool to the lower angle-of-attack (as shown in the picture).”

    natjpollard - Contestar

    I echo what everyone is saying here, the spudger just isn’t good enough for this and neither is a pick. The razor is the best way to go. I tried using a very sharp penknife blade and managed to damage my LCD (somehow!) and the bezel so I ended up having to buy a new screen display as well as a new battery. Think twice before doing this. Be prepared to shell out for a new screen just in case it goes wrong. You’ll also need the heat gun (the iopener was useless). If you do need to buy a new screen, make your life easier and get one with the speaker, forward-facing camera, home button, etc., already attached (you can then replace the home button) or you’ll end up having to transfer all these from your old display.

    David Gordon - Contestar

    I finally got the screen up but shattered it in the process. I was replacing it anyway but if the screen is not what you’re replacing, take EXTEME caution. The suction cup and spudger were not working for me to get it started. Thanks to the comments, I used a razor blade and a heating pad and went back and forth, back and forth, between heat and pressure from the blade. Once you get a gap, the spudger works great and the screen comes up easy.

    Nick Nave - Contestar

    The suction cups that iFixit sells are crap. They don’t stick at all. Glass on the phone is pristine.

    Nick - Contestar

    More feedback on this “guide”:

    “Pull up on the suction cup.” What does this mean? If I just pull up on the suction cup (with a real one that actually sticks) it just lifts the phone off the table. You need a description of what you are pulling against. Do I try to hold the frame of the phone? Do I try to stick something in the lightning port to pull against? Do I try and get something against the edge of the rounded metal on the edge of the phone (this usually just slips off). What am I pulling against???

    Nick - Contestar

    I found a combination of iOpener, suction cup and razor blade, all applied at the same time, worked for me and I didn't need to use a hairdryer.

    Peter Gray - Contestar

    Dumbly, I thought that with the Spudger I'd had to hold the phone from the charging hole while pulling the screen. .. In the end I inserted the two ends of the tweezers(bends the tweezers and may damage it) in the screwdriver holes and pushed the screen out upwards so that I could insert the sharp side of a knife.

    Claudiu Cezar - Contestar

    This was my first iPhone battery replacement and I can say this was the hardest part.

    Be wise, go for a hair dryer and heat up the phone bottom (long enough). iOpener did not work at all for me. Heat up, use the suction cup and push the opening pick under the frame as soon as you see movement along the frame.

    Then use the spudger to wander around the whole frame (leaving the pick where it is). Done!

    Guenter - Contestar

    True about sputter i cracked my screen trying to lift it up while using this device back in 2021

    DJSan - Contestar

    One little corner at a time. Don't try to do the whole bottom at once. I heated with a hair dryer. Applied the suction cup to one side and worked the corner till it started to give. Took a minute or two. Use a magnifying glass to help see when it's starting to come loose. It's not hard to do.

    Some Idiot - Contestar

  6. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 6, imagen 1 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 6, imagen 2 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 6, imagen 3 de 3
    • Desliza el spudger a la izquierda a lo largo del borde inferior del iPhone.

    • Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre la pantalla y la carcasa trasera.

    Didn’t have an iOpener and 60 seconds on a hairdryer wasn’t doing it for me. Still wouldn’t budge. I had to take a very sharp razor along the seam at the bottom between the speakers. It took about 20 passes for it to separate enough to get the spudger in. Make sure you keep the razor at a 90-45˚ angle and that it goes no more than 1-2mm into the phone. The bottom of the phone is metal, but the casing for the screen is plastic. So if you cut lower than a 45˚ (flat with the phone) you risk cutting into the casing. Apply light pressure when making the passes. I would just do the razor on the flat part on the bottom.

    minimalist - Contestar

    I used a hairdryer and a razor

    Gina Torres - Contestar

    The photos are a con. You cannot get a spudger in unless you can lift the screen. You cannot lift the screen because of the adhesive. Using a anything metal will damage the paintwork or the glass edge.

    Anatole Beams - Contestar

    I agree, these guides are half imaginary idealism it seems. A thin metal edge pushed vertically down just a fraction of a mm will cause the adhesive to weaken better than any amount of heat, but affects the final appearance sadly.

    Jesse de Vries - Contestar

  7. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 7, imagen 1 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 7, imagen 2 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 7, imagen 3 de 3
    • Desliza el spudger por el lado izquierdo del iPhone, comenzando en el borde inferior y deslizando hacia los botones de control de volumen y el interruptor de silencio.

    • No hagas palanca en el borde superior del teléfono, corres el riesgo de dañar los clips de plástico que sujetan la pantalla.

    Be VERY careful on this next step going up the right side of the phone. There is a ribbon cable 1/3 of the way up from the bottom that is very close to the edge. Do NOT use the blue triangle!!!! Just lightly rotate the spudger to get separation on the edge.

    Timothy Varvais - Contestar

  8. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 8, imagen 1 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 8, imagen 2 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 8, imagen 3 de 3
    • Inserta el borde plano de un spudger en la esquina inferior derecha del dispositivo.

    • Gira el spudger para ampliar el espacio entre el ensamblaje de la pantalla y la caja trasera.

    • Desliza el extremo plano del spudger por el lado derecho del teléfono para romper el adhesivo que sostiene la pantalla en su lugar.

    • No introduzcas el spudger más allá del adhesivo para evitar dañar los delicados cables de cinta a lo largo del borde derecho.

    Shoot. I broke the sensitive ribbon cable because I didn’t quite understand what the instructions meant with not to insert the spudger further than the adhesive. It means depth wise, not up the side. Sigh.

    Leo Hwang - Contestar

  9. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 9, imagen 1 de 2 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 9, imagen 2 de 2
    • Levanta la ventosa para levantar la pantalla y abra el iPhone.

    • No levantar la pantalla más de 10º ya que hay cables planos a lo largo del borde derecho del dispositivo que conecta la pantalla con la placa lógica.

    do not pull up pull sideways it will brake

    Riley Patterson - Contestar

    Somehow my phone turned itself back on during the opening. Scared me a little, like a patient coming out of anesthesia during the operation. I was able to turn it back off. Gotta be more careful where you grab this thing.

    Bryant Larsen - Contestar

  10. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 10, imagen 1 de 1
    • Tira hacia arriba de la pequeña protuberancia en la ventosa para sacarla del panel frontal.

  11. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 11, imagen 1 de 2 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 11, imagen 2 de 2
    • Desliza una púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior del iPhone, entre la caja trasera y el panel frontal, para romper el adhesivo restante que sujeta la pantalla en su lugar.

    • Ten cuidado de no dañar los clips de plástico en el borde superior del teléfono.

    The plastic clips mentioned are on the top of the screen being replaced… so not sure why it matters not to break them. Trick here was to pull the screen downwards to open a gap at the top and then insert as shown and raise to break the seal.

    Andrew Lansdowne - Contestar

    This is relevant for other guides than the display replacement guide.

    jvalaamo -

    プラスチックのクリップという

    表現に混乱しました。

    上部に食い込んでいる

    差し込みのことだったんですね。

    下に引っ張ったら抜けました。

    情報ありがとうございました。

    MARU - Contestar

    The opening pick is packaged with the battery, not the tools, so I didn’t find it until I was past this step. Made do with careful use of the spudger and a lot of wiggling the display to break the glue.

    ephraim - Contestar

  12. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 12, imagen 1 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 12, imagen 2 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 12, imagen 3 de 3
    • Tira del ensamblaje de la pantalla ligeramente hacia afuera desde el borde superior del teléfono para desenganchar los clips que lo sujetan a la caja posterior.

    • Abre el iPhone moviendo la pantalla hacia arriba desde el lado izquierdo, como la tapa posterior de un libro.

    • No intentes separar por completo la pantalla todavía, ya que hay varios cables frágiles que aún la conectan a la placa lógica del iPhone.

    I just broke the cable to the battery!

    No Bama - Contestar

    same dude im such a freak lol omg haha

    Aiden Polaski - Contestar

    Are there replacements ribbons?

    Blax Bently - Contestar

    Has anyone else noticed very small squares of rubber with a circle cut through it (I think they fall off into the phone when dismantling)?

    I just replaced my screen and worked out that these are actually a wee pocket that slips over the pentalobe screw holes on the replacement screen. I’m not sure if it’s an additional water resisting mechanism or if it’s to add additional traction for the screws

    richarddillon - Contestar

    Thanks, I was wondering where those were from!

    Albert -

    Same, I only had one fall out and I had no idea if important, and didn’t re-add - because I wasn’t sure where it fell from - but it was definitely from the home screen button….watch it be important. -__-

    Nicole Crome -

    I just broke cable connecting camera and earpiece speaker to logic board. Be careful with it.

    Natan Haładyn - Contestar

    This section is missing a critical step - to lay some Post-It notes or something below the right half of the phone when you swing it open, so the ribbon cables don’t get sliced by the sharp edge of the phone case. I broke the Home Button ribbon cable because there was no strain relief when I laid it open.

    neila - Contestar

    I also broke the home button cable and now I have to use assistive touch.

    Laurencio Gonzalez - Contestar

    Keep the suction cup on the display to keep it propped up while you disconnect the ribbon cables.

    minimalist - Contestar

    I broke the short ribbon cable that attaches underneath the lower connector bracket. Be SURE when you lift the display, you do it from left to right. I thought I had the phone oriented correctly in my hand, but I was mistaken.

    John Murray - Contestar

    Put the suction cup on the right side of the middle of the screen when you rotate it up and out. It serves as a nice stand to take the pressure off the connectors.

    Ray Bieze - Contestar

    no mention of what you do once u open the book. are the ribbons long enough to lie flat  or do we have to keep screen raised while removing screws,, like when we hold screen up 45 degrees while removing 5 screw plat when at top of phone. I only realised how fragile the ribbons are and how important it is to use suction  cup to rest screen on an angle so ribbons don't stretch or cut on frame.

    thanks for the above comments and probably the most important section. I just hope I closed t before I fdid any damage. its lke the fragility of iPhone 3’s all over again.

    scallyteacher - Contestar

    I just broke one of the cables… yeah, it is not nice… I’m lucky in the sense the screen is still working, but the button is not.

    Trying a cheap screen on Ebay (that contains the cable) do 20$, after that, it’s a new cellphone…

    Vincent Poirier - Contestar

    Be EXTREMELY careful when you lift up the screen. I broke 3D touch cable, and the home button stopped working. Had to replace the whole display.

    Sizun Cho - Contestar

    Attention ! J’ai cassé la nappe de la caméra avant !

    arnauldjouanny - Contestar

  13. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador, Desconexión de la batería: paso 13, imagen 1 de 1
    Herramienta utilizada en este paso:
    Tri-point Y000 Screwdriver
    $5.99
    Comprar
    • Retira los siguientes tornillos triples Y000 del soporte del conector inferior:

    • Tres tornillos de 1.2 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.4 mm

    • Durante esta reparación, lleva cuenta de cada tornillo y asegúrate de que cada tornillo vuelva al lugar exacto de donde salió para evitar dañar tu iPhone.

    Ahhh shoot! accidentally ordered tri-wing vs tri-point (must have just looked for y000).. It seems they only did this to annoy repair folks because not everything is tri-point on the phone...

    Steve - Contestar

    These screws just spin for me. They don't back out, but the heads aren't stripped either. I've tried applying backpressure to help lift the screws, but no luck

    Jeff Hurst - Contestar

    The Y000 took out one of the screws but not the other 3. I even tried the PH000 as suggested but nothing.

    dbright - Contestar

    What driver do I need to remove these screws i’m stuck

    Nasser Nader - Contestar

    i cant use, the Y000 it isnt working.

    joscarlos91 - Contestar

    What if I stripped a screw what do I do??

    Jacob Ramos - Contestar

    Yep, only the 2.4mm came out, other 3 won’t budge, and worried I’ve stripped the heads. Anyone got any ideas?

    Stephen Babbage - Contestar

    It’s the screwdriver bit that is the problem. I had the same issue with 2 Y000 bits not grabbing the screw properly. I fixed it by using a small 3 sided file to slightly grind the groves in the Y000 bit just a bit deeper. Then the bit worked like a charm on these screws.

    Jim Staples - Contestar

    Use Y000 on all 4. U have to be very sensitive on the 1.2mm screws. Put the bit in the screw, put the left pointing finger on top of the screwdriver and turn the driver carefully to the right until you feel a “bump”, thats the trick :-), then you are able to screw the screw out.

    Magne Eivindson - Contestar

    For me the key here was a LOT of downward pressure to ensure the Y000 bit caught in the screw. Not sure i can describe how much exactly, but is was significant. Otherwise the bit would not catch.

    Erik Fredriksen - Contestar

    What do I do if I Stripped one of them?

    Adam Corral - Contestar

    Can’t get them removed what to do ?

    cowling_luke - Contestar

    Managed to get the central one out. The upper one won't move, the lower one I've popped out with some force. This allows you to rotate the cover enough to unplug the various bits. Not ideal, but works. I've tried applying a lot of pressure, using the tighten/ loosen method, but the heads have just got mashed… no wonder Samsung are now No1, sigh…

    jimpoolio - Contestar

    You need to be careful when just rotating the cover as you can accidentally slice through the two black antennas! You only need to nip them…As you can tell I have done this in the past :/

    Kyle Webb -

    The first, longer screw came out fine, but the other three wouldn’t budge, regardless of more/less pressure or a slight angle or anything. I finally filed down the tip of the Y000 bit ever so slightly, and then it worked. Hope this helps someone.

    Harmony - Contestar

    Filing down the bit worked for me. The tip about putting an index finger on the end of the screwdriver handles and then turning gently until it clicks into place was very helpful! Using these 2 tips I didn't need much downward pressure. Screws are out in a few turns.

    Chris Bennett - Contestar

    If you can’t get the bit to grip the screw properly, you can use a little bit of the water-proof sealing between the bit and the screw. That worked for me. Hope this helps anyone.

    jvalaamo - Contestar

    Mine came out easily. I placed the screws in the area where the bit goes in my kit so I can keep track.

    Gina Torres - Contestar

    I used a bunch of medicine cups to track my screws. You need like 12 if you want them all in cups. I ran out. There are so many different sizes that literally vary by 1mm. The tolerances on these things are tight.

    Ray Bieze - Contestar

    I use a 28 day pill box and keep every screw separate and reburn to exact slot because they all vary in length, width and can really damage u phone if too long and nt secure if to small.  use a magnetised screwdriver,  or make the cheap freebees magnetic for a short period by rubbing it up an a magnet. lol

    scallyteacher - Contestar

    Absolutely ridiculous had to go get a different one just stupid

    mark golling - Contestar

    I couldn’t get the lowest one out and just turned the metal bracket out of the way and replaced battery.

    qwerty77x - Contestar

    Was able to get the outer bracket screws out using fine needle nose pliers 90 degrees straight down for the outer ones by pressing down a little and using medium gripping force. Had to take these out first before i could use tweezers on the middle one, for which I had to use tweezers to hold the screw, then rotating the bracket (not the screw) counter clockwise a few mm many times over to slowly unscrew it 1/32th of a turn at a time, repeat. (this loosened middle screw). Think ‘rotating bracket 3minutes/degrees counterclockwise at a time while holding screw in place.) You are gonna need really small/fine pliers and tweezers for this because the heads are countersunk into the bracket.

    Galen Wollenberg - Contestar

    The top screw in the step was much longer than 1.2mm. It has the same head as the 1.2mm, but different than the 2.4mm. It’s good to keep track of where they came from.

    All are so small that I thought I’d lost one, when it was still sitting in the phone.

    Mark - Contestar

    To help tell if the screw is turning, put a small dot from a marker on the head of the screws.  This helped me to know I wasn't just stripping the head.

    Darren Thibodaux - Contestar

    try heating the iPhone with a hairdryer or a bag of rice or about 60 degrees in an oven for 3 minutes . It has worked for me. If the screws don’t come out while hot the will come out as the iPhone cools.

    David Howard - Contestar

    A small tapered triangle file using moderate pressure did the trick for me.

    Jack - Contestar

  14. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 14, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira el soporte del conector inferior.

    my battery cable connector was stuck to the bottom of this metal bracket plate so be careful when you lift it off

    Josh Martin - Contestar

    This may have been intentionally done by Apple to make sure the battery gets disconnected before any other connector is disconnected. So always make sure to disconnect the battery before disconnecting and reconnecting the connectors for the display.

    Oscar Moreno - Contestar

    So…I forgot to put this bracket back on when reassembling. Now I’ve adhered the display to the case and don’t have another adhesive strip…so I’m wondering: what purpose does this bracket serve? The phone is powering on and seems to work okay.

    Am I going to run into trouble with this bracket missing?

    Ian Fritz - Contestar

    Well, that didn’t last long. The phone shuts down without warning. So I guess that plate is important…

    Ian Fritz -

    I also forgot to put the battery shield in, and adhered the display. I’m tempted to leave it like that. However, your negative experience is a good data point telling me to not be cheap.

    Ordered a new adhesive , under $2 shipped from eBay.

    Yishai Sered -

    Thanks, Josh Martin! Mine was stuck too, so I lifted carefully.

    Cynthia Lamb - Contestar

  15. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 15, imagen 1 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 15, imagen 2 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 15, imagen 3 de 3
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para sacar el conector de la batería de su zócalo en la placa lógica.

    • Dobla el cable del conector ligeramente hacia arriba para evitar que haga contacto con el zócalo y suministra energía al teléfono.

    Was kann passieren wenn man diesses Kabel vergessen hat zu entfernen `?

    Julian Eltrich - Contestar

    Reconnecting the battery poorly can cause the iPhone to appear to be properly powered and functional, but then suffer a reboot loop.

    I had difficulty after a screen replacement, and the Console app on my Mac showed that the ‘thermalmonitord’ process was throwing lots of errors from not getting any sensor readings from the battery. It would never charge past 1% and just kept rebooting.

    The contacts on this conector looked fine so even though I had reseated this connector several times already, I reconnected it very firmly using my thumb and a spudger to really press all the corners and middle and really gave it a good massage and then finally it showed the normal dead battery screen and started properly charging and eventually booted back up to normal functionality.

    It seems the battery has to be able to transmit data to the phone to say it’s not overheating or iOS will not allow any current into the battery to recharge it, and the kernel will panic from the null readings and just reboot over and over again.

    jason - Contestar

    In my case, the battery connector was attached to the bracket. We just left it connected bracket when we pryed it up.

    Dave Miller - Contestar

    Reconnecting the battery connector was a bit difficult in my case. The cable that comes out of the battery was a tiny bit too long, or that I placed the battery a bit too high (i.e., too close to the top of the phone). It took me several frustrating minutes of fiddling with the connector for it to sit right into the socket. I was not sure if that was connected correctly but, alas, the phone came back to life when it was turned back on.

    Tomoharu Eguchi - Contestar

    VERY IMPORTANT NOTE: Please READ the reply here by jason.

    It is very easy to knock off or nudge the little pins near the battery socket, see https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/... and https://guide-images.cdn.ifixit.com/igi/....

    Those pins are the data lines to extract battery info: temperature, charge, etc. If you accidentally nudge/knock off them the phone could appear to work normally, even for a few days. But then you will start getting wrong battery reads and then after that it may suffer a reboot loop. If you enter settings > privacy > analytics & improvements and you scroll down you will find panic errors from thermalmonitord that there are missing sensors (TG0B or TGXXX) and you will have to micro solder them. DO NOT NUDGE THEM and double check the socket connector when reconnecting the battery.

    PJM - Contestar

    After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all! Careful removing the lower bracket - mine was stuck to this battery connector, which came up with the bracket. Luckily no cable or connector damage. Be careful. Thank you all!

    dantegd - Contestar

    after installing new ifixit battery kit, note the foam on the new battery is thicker than old apple one, managed to remove the old foam and swap to new battery connector, sheild plate now level

    Neil Mills - Contestar

  16. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador, Pantalla: paso 16, imagen 1 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador, Pantalla: paso 16, imagen 2 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador, Pantalla: paso 16, imagen 3 de 3
    • Asegúrate de que la batería esté desconectada antes de desconectar o reconectar los cables en este paso.

    • Utiliza la parte plana de un spudger o tu uña para desconectar los dos conectores inferiores de la pantalla haciendo palanca hacia arriba de sus puertos de conexión en la placa lógica.

    • Para reconectar estos cables, presiona un extremo hasta que encaje en su lugar, luego repite en el extremo opuesto. No presiones en el medio. Si el conector está ligeramente mal alineado, el conector se puede doblar y causar daño permanente.

    • Si tienes un pantalla en blanco, líneas blancas en la pantalla, o no tienes respuesta táctil completa o parcial después de volver a ensamblar tu teléfono, intenta desconectar y reconectar con cuidado ambos cables y asegúrate de que estén encajados completamente.

    To be honest you don’t really need to disconnect the display cables in step 15 or 16 to get the battery out. Just keep the suction cup on the screen to keep it propped up and to give the cables some slack. The only reason to take these cables off is that it’s a pain to apply the replacement display adhesive with those cables in the way. If you’re not re-waterproofing your phone just leave these attached.

    Reemplazo Adhesivo de Pantalla iPhone

    minimalist - Contestar

    MAKE SURE you hold the top screen when dislodging the cable connections. I let the screen lie flat down and ended up tearing one of the cable connections, now my touch ID does not work at all! I’m going to have to order a whole new screen.

    Arjun Nagarajan - Contestar

    Don’t miss that SECOND CONNECTOR like I did. It will break very easily if not disconnected :(

    garrett peek - Contestar

    An earlier comment said to re-apply the suction cup to the right side of the display so that it acts as a stand when the phone is partially opened. That’s a great idea, and helps a lot for this step and the next.

    Mark - Contestar

    Hey – I broke one of these flex cables and I cant find them to purchase anywhere. Can somebody help me? It’s the LCD connector first and what is the second flex cable for? Thanks!

    Chan Ty - Contestar

    I broke the second (smaller) display connector flex cable.

    1) Is it replaceable or repairable?

    2) Where can I get the replacement?

    Ben Blom - Contestar

    Same happened to me. What solution did you find? Could you replace a part to make it work? Thank you!

    Viktoria -

    I replaced the screen and have ended up with a blank screen. Touch control seem to work (touch button works and I can shut down the phone by pressing power button for some seconds and then swipe left to right in the upper part of the screen). But the screen is blank. I’ve tried to disconnect and connect the two connectors in step 16 but with the same result (blank screen). What do I need to do?

    Thanks for advice!

    Bjorn - Contestar

    this point is the most important in the whole manual.

    Please pay attention not to strain the flex cables or they will end up breaking

    Jose Joaquín Sanz Iniesta - Contestar

    I should have been more careful - the second cable tore off.

    My own fault after having done this replacement about four times previously without any issues, I clearly got cocky and didn’t pay enough attention.

    Be VERY CAREFUL and remember to unplug those cables. Don’t skip steps.

    I’ve now had to order a replacement screen.

    Stuart - Contestar

    Echo minimalist’s comment here. Prop the display up and skip to step 19 to save time and remove risk.

    .A. - Contestar

    If you replace the screen and there is no display apply io propyl alcohol 99.9 & purse to both connectors on the screen and on the iPhone with a clean toothbrush and let them dry for 45 minutes and then fit the screen and reassemble the iPhone..

    It works for me . when I get a new screen I do t5his before fitting it.

    David Howard - Contestar

    I tried to save time by not removing the screen during battery replacement as some comment here, HOWEVER, I ended up having to use a little force to remove the battery and in the process broke the second, lower smaller cable, resulting in loss of home button function and needing to get a new screen. Next time I will follow these steps and completely remove the screen during a battery replacement

    chrislacey - Contestar

    I removed the screen and cable still got ripped during reassembling :(

    Viktoria -

    There is a critical fact missing from the steps here, for reassembly: That bottom (underlying) cable is longer than it should be. Loads of people are reporting that the Home button is dead after this repair, but the cables aren't torn. I'm pretty sure this is why. Here is a picture of the problem.

    When reassembling the phone, you must poke this cable back into the body of the phone while you bring the halves together, or you will crush, crimp, and destroy the cable.

    Gavin Stokes - Contestar

    I’m only reading your very useful comment now, after the exact thing happened to me and my cable got ripped during reassembling phone. Would you be able helping me naming this part, so I can look for a new one? Thank you very much!

    Viktoria -

    thanks gavin. ifixit should have included this piece of info.

    soupamanx -

    Can somebody help me with the name of the part that these cables belong to? The bottom one got ripped during my battery replacement, I need a new one but unsure what to look for.

    Viktoria - Contestar

  17. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 17, imagen 1 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 17, imagen 2 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 17, imagen 3 de 3
    • Remueve los dos tornillos Phillips 1.3mm que aseguran el soporte sobre el conector del sensor del panel frontal.

    • Algunos teléfonos podrían ser Y000. Apple comenzó a utilizar Y000 para estos en algún momento de la mitad del ciclo de vida del producto.

    Has anyone had trouble getting these two screws off? I’ve been working on these for about 10 minutes and the LEFT screw wont spin. It seems like the little PH000 screwdriver bit won’t even grip it. (The one of the right comes off, no problem)

    It looks like I’ll have to pick this project up again with a screwdriver that will actually take off this piece.

    Makana Sylva - Contestar

    If you’re having trouble removing these screws;

    the screw on the right goes into a standoff screw that is screwed into the frame.The left one goes into the logicboard.

    If your phone is used most likely it has been repaired in the past and the person that repaired it put the screws in way too tight.

    If your phone is brand new And you know 100% it is then the problem is your screwdriver.Stop before you strip it completely and buy a better screwdriver (EBAY).

    If you already stripped the screw head take the phone to a shop before you break it.

    there are ways to get them out but truthfully it’s extremely dangerous and sometimes your better off quitting while you are ahead.

    Vegeta Barrett -

    The right screw kept spinning, tried different levels of force but didn’t work. I left the screw on and bent the shield to get to the cable.

    s h - Contestar

    I used a #1 flat head tip to loosen.

    Peter Pearson - Contestar

    I couldn’t get the two screws out either—used the correct screw tip and everything. Stripped the screw. Will now attempt to just keep the cable attached…..

    Therese Peffer - Contestar

    Use the PH000 and apply a little more force before spinning, should come right out!

    Sierra Scolaro - Contestar

    ^To anyone having trouble, this is the correct answer. Put the phone on a firm surface, align your driver carefully, press down hard, and twist. As long as your driver is approximately the right size, it’ll come out.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    the two screw i have are stripped and i have n way of getting either screws off whats my next bet

    Alexis Marie Colon - Contestar

    The PH000 bit is to large. I can’t get the screws out either which really sucks…now I have to put everything back together, find another bit that will work and try this again another day. Not impressed with IFIXIT’s attention to detail so far :-(

    Ryan Welborn - Contestar

    Using iFixit’s driver kit, I prefer a PH00 for this, which is larger than the PH000. If you think the PH000 is too big, something is wrong.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I think part of the issue with the iFixit PH000 is that it is slightly too pointy. The PH00 fits better because the splines engage the slots of the screw before the point bottoms out. The PH000 tip bottoms out in the screw’s center point and the splines don’t engage as well. I have other PH000 tips that are more blunt nose and they work better than the iFixit bit.

    rcarswell - Contestar

    Use the J00 bit. Worked perfectly

    efazio588 - Contestar

    PH000 screwdriver didn’t work for any of these screws, or the barometric vent, or the taptic engine. It was too big. I had to use a different screwdriver from another kit I had.

    minimalist - Contestar

    I’d do this step before removing the ribbon cables by the battery connector. That way you can disconnect all of them at the same time.

    Ray Bieze - Contestar

    i used the little +-shape 30 mm screwdriver (not the Y…but the + shape).

    mason - Contestar

    the cable tore. is that it i need a new phone?

    patricia loving - Contestar

    You don’t need a new phone, but your selfie camera and phone speaker will not work. You can get replacements for that about $10.

    jack jones - Contestar

    Reconnecting this cable and coverplate took a good 20 minutes. O_O

    Nicole Crome - Contestar

    What can I do to remove the screw (I stripped it)

    Alex Vu - Contestar

    I also had issues to loosen up the screws, in two parts the right side up and the left side down, i think the PH000 is to pointy or something or its too hard for the srews of the iphone, i cannot take it off and know im regreting i bought i order all the way from Paraguay in south america and know so angry it doesnt work

    Martin Frutos, Nuñez - Contestar

    I skipped this step. Just be really careful not to pull on the screen.

    Takumi Arai - Contestar

    The guide says they changed these to the Y000 “at some point in the t middle of the product’s lifecycle”…

    That can’t be true, I have a *day one*, preordered iPhone 7, and mine had, unmistakably, Y000 screws!

    and also, I’m just faithfully following the guide here, but can anyone clarify *why* is is necessary to entirely remove the display AND the Taptic Engine at all? The battery seems accessible just fine… oh well

    PS- I’m doing this on an older backup iPhone 7. My iPhone 12 Pro just went berserk and stopped working completely a little over a year after I got it day one of its release… since the iPhone X I’ve only had easily breakable, overly sensitive phones. I’ve had every numbered iPhone except for the 8 (I got the X released at the same date) and the 11, and man, are these newer iPhones post X fragile!

    Cam F - Contestar

    This worked for me! As mentioned use PH000 and apply pressure and then unscrew the screws. They are tiny, adhere to a piece of tape so you don't lose them.

    Rosie J - Contestar

  18. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 18, imagen 1 de 2 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 18, imagen 2 de 2
    • Desconecta el conector del sensor del panel frontal de su puerto de conexión con la placa lógica.

    • Este conector a presión debe ser reconectado al finalizar en el mismo momento para minimizar el riesgo de que se doble.

    Das ist sehr mutig, das Kabel dort so zu strapazieren.

    Mich würde das Display daneben stellen und mit irgendetwas stützen, dass es nicht umkippen kann um Beschädigungen an dem Kabel zu vermeiden. Das reißt sehr schnell ein.

    Detlef Menninger - Contestar

    Is this the connector for the earpiece, as well? I did the screen replacement and everything worked, except now I can’t use my earpiece… I’m afraid I didn’t fully connect this particular portion.

    Victor Bui - Contestar

    @victorbui714 Correct, this is also the connector for the earpiece speaker. Check the flex cable carefully and make sure it wasn’t pinched or torn. Make sure the connector socket is clean (give it a blast with some compressed air if needed) and try reseating it. If that doesn’t help, you may want to remove the earpiece speaker and inspect the four springs on the back, and check that they’re intact and making good contact with the four circular pads on the flex cable. Give the pads a wipe with some IPA and try not to leave any skin oils on them. If none of that works, try replacing the entire flex cable/sensor assembly. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the only connector that is quite easily possible to put back in the wrong way. If you do so, the phone will just get into a continuous loop where it shows the boot screen, goes blank and then shows the boot screen again and again. If this happens, do not despair-just put it back in the right way.

    Roy Mathew - Contestar

    After putting together, I had a continuous loop boot up (as noted above). I saw articles where this (front panel sensor connection) was the reason. I disconnected this connection and the boot up loop stopped. I tried reconnecting several times but had the same problem (boot up loop). However, it turns out that I needed to apply extra pressure when installing until a heard a (faint) second click when pressing down. Note - before I was using the spudger to press the connection together, which didn’t do the job. I ended up using my finger to press harder to get it to click in. Solved that issue.

    Ed Scannell - Contestar

    The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

    John Daily - Contestar

    The ribbon cable on this step is torn. Is this something that can be replaced? Is this only to the earpiece?

    Sarah Valencia - Contestar

  19. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 19, imagen 1 de 1

    When removing the screen, be aware of the two tiny square black rubber grommets on the Penelope screw brackets that secure the screen. They can fall off very easily and be lost without even knowing it (it happened to me, but was lucky enough to find them).

    Guy Cooley - Contestar

    Sorry, I’m so unclear about when to replace the Adhesive tape. Should I put the iPhone 7 Display Assembly Adhesive at this step, or after I’ve replaced the battery?

    Victor Bui - Contestar

    @victorbui714 Battery first, then adhesive during reassembly, as it says in the instructions. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    This is the 3rd screen iv put in my phone and everyone them bust at the top by the camera every time iv bought one of these screen idk if it’s the manufactures fault or what?

    trent bost - Contestar

    @trentb28922 Ouch! That’s not normal. Is your phone’s frame bent? Are you having to use a lot of force when you install the display?

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If the instructions are followed step by step, then adding the adhesive comes before changing the battery.

    If I had to do it all over again, I'd skip adding the adhesive, because you have to disconnect the battery, plus the two lower display connecters and the front panel sensor assembly connector. It was a nightmare trying to marry the components back together without disturbing the wire prongs, and I don't even want to talk about reinserting the tiny screws that kept twirling around on the tip of the screwdriver as well. It wasn't worth the time or aggravation!!

    If you decide to skip this step, just avoid using your iPhone near water.

    Rosie J - Contestar

  20. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador, Inicio / Sensor ID Táctil: paso 20, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los cuatro tornillos Y000 que sujetan el soporte sobre el sensor de inicio / ID Táctil:

    • Un tornillo de 1.1 mm

    • Tres tornillos de 1.3 mm

    • Durante el reensamblaje, ten cuidado de no apretar demasiado estos tornillos, o el botón de inicio podría no funcionar

    Why is the screw over top of the home button so difficult to get out… has anyone else experienced this..? This is twice now I've struggled to get that screw

    Brandon - Contestar

    The screw to the left holding the heatshield is never mentioned in this guide

    Beerbo - Contestar

    No reason to touch that screw unless you’re removing the shield—in which case, this step instructs you to remove it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The link that was mentioned takes you to the heat shield for iphone 7 plus. There’s a slight difference in the two models.

    Jason Glenn -

    To clarify: the regular/smaller iPhone 7 has no screw on the far left there. The 7 Plus does, but there’s no need to touch it unless you’re removing the large metal shield covering the back of the display. The procedure in the guide is correct.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    So I stripped the screw furthest to the left, how can i possibly remove it now? Can I just buy a new LCD shield and home bracket button and screw and will that work just fine on the new screen replacement? this stripped screw of mine is not coming out

    Bryan Ferrer - Contestar

    That should work, as long as you can still get the home button/sensor out without damage. For removing a stripped screw this size, I’d probably try supergluing it to the driver—or else just drill the top of the screw off and then remove the bracket, leaving the screw shaft embedded in the old display. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I used the same driver for all of these screws. Had to apply a lot of pressure before trying to unscrew it and it was fine.

    jessica harlow - Contestar

    This is wrong, the size you need is Y00 for the 1.1mm screws and Y000 for the 1.3mm one.

    Robert Clark - Contestar

    The heads on those screws are identical. I’ve never had any trouble using a Y000 for all of them. Use whatever works for you I guess.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I’ve managed to strip the screw on the right hand side - not the far right, just right of the home button. Any ideas on how to get it out without glue (I don’t have any)

    Christie Ellen - Contestar

    My screwdriver is too big to get out the screws

    Coolinee Kerman - Contestar

    My eyesight isn’t what it used to be. That said, the replacement screen that arrived already had screws in the two outside positions. It took me a minute to figure this out when I was trying to install the home button. I couldn’t figure out why the screws weren’t going in. I thought the holes were filled or something… Nope. screws. Took them out and used them.. all good.

    Critter - Contestar

    My 7 had quite a bit of loctite holding these bad boys on. I stripped the one to the right of the home button and after using many “sentence enhancers” I was able to remove it using good tweezers and quite a bit of hand strength. I think that heating up the screws here is not an option because the cables lie underneath the plate and would probably get damaged from the amount of heat needed to loosen the loctite. Be patient here, and maybe have spare Y000 drivers because you may damage your driver getting these screws out.

    P Park - Contestar

    If your having trouble. I recommend you guys to buy the Y00o driver at amazon. It look golden. It works very will .

    Jonathan curz - Contestar

    Read instead of: “Remove the four Y000 screws”. “Remove the four Philips 00 screws”. Thats the case what occurs to me.

    Henk - Contestar

    Hi all, I’m really hoping someone will be able to give me a hand here, so the 1.1mm screw on top of the home button is stripped, and absolutely refuses to get out. I have tried the superglue technique mentioned and am worried it may have even glued the screw to the bracket. The only solution I can think of is to bend the home button bracket on either side of the middle screw, and use the bracket itself to remove the screw from the home button. I have ordered a new home button bracket either way, does anybody have any other ideas? Should I even attempt what I am proposing?

    Thanks in Advance.

    llamalulu42 - Contestar

    This worked for me take a Stanley blade and saw a grove across the screw with the edge ofcourse then heat the home button with hair dryer for a couple of minutes take the blade and press it into the groove you scored and turn it

    Paul -

    Does the ground strap go over or under bracket?

    Marcos Polos - Contestar

    over the bracket

    David Proudman -

    my home button does not work anymore! do you know why?

    josé - Contestar

    I magically used an X-acto knife tip to lift the edges of the home button screw to loosen it, and then turned it slightly with the X-acto blade tip in the screw slot to get it started, then the 000 screwdriver could finish it.

    Jim Pflasterer - Contestar

    I can’t stress how important it is to not overtighten the one on the button. I undertightened the center one at first in fear, and then tightened it more when I realized the button was loose. It ended up ruining the home button :(

    Brendon Parker - Contestar

    I was completely unable to get the screw directly over the homebutton off. I definitely stripped it some. Here’s some tips!

    1. If you are trying to unscrew and it skips instead of locking in—STOP. Apply more pressure, and then try again. Keep doing this until it comes out. If you continue turning without doing anything, you’ll strip the head of the screw and end up in a way worse situation.

    2. If your screw is stripped, first try putting a rubber band between the screwdriver and the screw to fill the gap. Duct tape has worked for many people as well.

    3. If you can’t get the screw directly above the home button off of the home button, I found this video that shows how to remove the home button without unscrewing the screw!! Bend the protective plate up 90° on both sides of the home button so the bent plate now fits through the home button hole. Then you can continue to

    the next steps and remove the home button with the plate still attached to it.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DTCQA-jn...

    silas - Contestar

    Don’t know if I did something wrong, but the home button no longer works. I’ll see if I can get someone to repair it.

    David Proudman - Contestar

    Found a software workaround, go to General > Accessibility > Assistive Touch. Now you don’t need the home button to work to use the phone

    David Proudman -

    I enabled assistive touch before making a go on this part. Screws are very small, easy to strip, and difficult to find if they go flying when you;re just trying to seat them properly.

    jack jones - Contestar

    VERY SMART!! I would not have thought of doing that. Depending on what my local repair guy charges I may be doing this myself, but in all honestly if the home button does not work on the new screen I'm getting another phone

    FallenAnjel -

    I’ve never been so stressed at trying to assemble something, O_O I should really get some glasses. I just reassembled all the screws, tried to not screw too tight, but how does one know? Maybe they could include “only twist 3 times, or 2…and maybe provide an ocular. Those screws are very very very tiny, and yes - be careful, because if you attach the right screw first, the left one can be catapulted if not secured and just “set” waiting to screw in. Thankful for the magnetism, but also had to find myself holding the screw in place while securing or else it would just attach to the screwdriver and come out. I'm TOTALLY looking forward to turning this ON after all assembled based on all the disheartened comments…..oy. Here. We. Go.

    Nicole Crome - Contestar

    There’s a small square rubber piece that has a screw hole in it. does anyone know if it goes over the home button? I missed it when I took it apart, but then , there it is on my table.

    MajorCouillon - Contestar

    It slips over one of the posts that the pentalobe screws in step 1 go through. Like a mitten over a hand. It’s incredibly hard to see where the slit is in that tiny rubber piece though.

    Jared Cook -

    What do you do if you overtighten the screws? I assume that is why my home button won't click

    Andrew Targett - Contestar

    How can you tell if you’ve over-tightened the screws or if the home button isn’t working for some other reason (other physical damage, shorted out, etc.)?

    Jared Cook - Contestar

    Die Schraube auf dem Home-Button ist wohl von Apple gewollt schwer zu entfernen. Man sollte sie daher zuerst herausdrehen; denn, ist die Unterlage unterm iPhone nicht hart genug und man drückt jetzt mit Kraft über den Schraubendreher auf die Schraube, wird der Home-Button hinausgedrückt, dabei verbiegt sich die Halterung und besonders schlimm, das eine untere Flachbandkabel reißt ab und der Home-Button ist unbrauchbar.

    Hartmut Kruse - Contestar

    So from those that do many repairs what do you think is the percentage of repairs in which the home button doesn't work after moving it to a new screen? 10%? 30%? 70%?

    FallenAnjel - Contestar

  21. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 21, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira el soporte que asegura el sensor de inicio / ID Táctil.

  22. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 22, imagen 1 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 22, imagen 2 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 22, imagen 3 de 3

    Well, I just damaged the home button connector in step 31. It is completely off the cable. What now? Can I buy this home button?

    LadyTech - Contestar

    I think you can not do it because your phone is not identify for new cable.

    Ali Alsaed - Contestar

    Best thing to do here is to NOT pry up on the connector, but to insert the pry tool on the left side until the connector is dislodged.

    Oscar Moreno - Contestar

    Good tip. Worked perfectly. Thx.

    Klaus M -

    That worked perfectly, thank you!

    Emily Kretschmer -

    use one pry tool to hold down, another to pull up.

    Christa - Contestar

    I did it. :-( i broke it

    Peter Keller - Contestar

    Anyone having difficulty reconnecting the two ? I’ve been trying for ages with no luck.

    Patrick McKenna - Contestar

    Same problem here - can reconnect them once the new LCD is being installed. Not sure what the trick is.

    edcraigslistaccount -

    Yes I had to fiddle with it for about 20mins to get it to finally click in place, just don’t apply too much pressure it doesn’t take much, if the alignment of the connector is right you should feel it snap into place. connect the cables together before you screw it in place, also raise the assembly up off the small locator pin until after you get the connectors together. Hope this helps

    Callum Cross -

    my Homebutton don´t work after I reconnect all, I checked all flex cables but it still dont work. what can I do?

    Dr. Dieter - Contestar

    so, i’m working on an iPhone 7. I was very careful not to break anything, I even bought an iOpener heat pack and applied it, and everything went off without a hitch, but when I tested the button, It does not work, would it help to reconnect it or something?

    Thanks a lot!

    Peter Keller - Contestar

    iPhone 7 home “buttons” can be really fussy. You’ll find some good troubleshooting tips here and here. Hope this helps!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Broke my cable. The picture is not clear but you have to separate the thin silver end of cable from what looks like a black piece of rubber. I pulled up on it from under the black rubber like the picture shows and broke mine.

    bart.hutchings - Contestar

    This helped me SO much. Watch it before removing home button. Around 4:56ish

    https://youtu.be/An9kUJshRjA

    Gina Torres - Contestar

    Thank you so much!

    Jakob Kloppenborg -

    That’s a very good view. Thank you!

    johanbogg -

    Yup, this video helped me know what people were talking about. It worked and I didn’t rip or break anything…so far XD

    Christopher Villavicencio -

    Well, I just damaged the home button connector in step 21. It is completely off the cable. What now? Can I buy this connector ?

    dima shynin - Contestar

    I’m having a really hard time reconnecting the two together. Any advice?

    Ben Carter - Contestar

    I used the tweezers in step 21 to separate this connector. I squeezed the tweezers shut then put the flat edge of the points between the connector and slowly released the tweezers. The connector separated really easy.

    sschaffer - Contestar

    This tip worked a treat. Thanks!

    Admin4CBowra -

    any tips on reconnecting the connector. I assume it needs to be snuggly fit back in. I can’t seem to connect the two agin. Is it supposed to ‘snap’ together or should I use an adhesive?

    rwalz - Contestar

    Figured it out. I just needed to make sure I aligned them better when feeding the home button backthrough

    rwalz -

    勢い余ってケーブルを

    ブッちぎってしまいました(>_<)

    MARU - Contestar

    Hi, After fixing Iphone 7 Plus screen, my touch sensor is not working, What is the alternative .. Please help me . Thanks

    kalyan c - Contestar

    I found it quite difficult to reconnect the home button cable connector. After putting everything back together, my iPhone said there was an error with the TouchID. I disassembled the phone again, pried off the home button connector and found that I had not lined it up properly with the mated part. I had to push the connector upwards (toward the top of the phone) in order for it to seat properly. It almost felt unnatural to push the connector so far up to make it seat properly. I tested the phone again before reassembling and everything worked fine. If you break the cable on this home button piece, you can only buy a generic home button (about $8 here on Amazon) that will allow you to use the button for navigation but it will not work for TouchID (you will have to use your phone permanently unlocked or use a numeric code to unlock). The original home button is specifically mapped to your phone and cannot be replaced.

    awillimd - Contestar

    Yeah, I couldn't snap it back together either and after giving up a few times, probably the third time I came back to it, about the 10th time trying to line it up, the cable just totally snapped off....

    nlr_fairygirl - Contestar

  23. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 23, imagen 1 de 2 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 23, imagen 2 de 2
    • Con cuidado levanta el conector subyacente y aléjelo del cable de inicio / ID Táctil.

    • Es muy fácil dañar tu iPhone durante este paso. Trabaja despacio y ten cuidado cuando haces palanca con tu herramienta. Si dañas el hardware Touch ID, solo puede ser reemplazado por Apple.

    • Si el conector no se levanta fácilmente, usa un secador de pelo o iOpener para calentar y ablandar el adhesivo que asegura el conector, y luego intente de nuevo.

    • No intentes desconectar el conector por completo; simplemente gíralo ligeramente para que el cable del sensor de inicio / ID Táctil subyacente se pueda extraer.

    Make sure that you fold this cable out when fitting your replacement before you fasten the shield back down. I didn’t but managed to loosen 2 screws on the shield to get the cable out.

    chris_sawyer - Contestar

    If you have isopropyl alcohol on hand. You can use it to help weaken the adhesive temporarily when lifting up the adhered home button.

    Ben - Contestar

    Just one tiny drop of isopropyl alcohol or it will reach the lcd screen.

    Stefano Restuccia -

    Heat is absolutely vital during this step. Care should be taken and you should work very slowly. A new playing card will be useful in separating the ribbon from the device, using heat periodically to soften the adhesive as you go along. The ribbon cable changes size between the connector and the button, creating a weak area that can begin to rip if stressed. Use a card flat against the frame to slowly separate the cable from the frame.

    Benji - Contestar

    The isopropyl alcohol did the trick for me; all it takes is for you to dip the prying tool in a bit of the alcohol and the rest is magic. I did not have to apply heat and I was able to remove the home button from the original screen to transfer it to the new screen without any issue! Be careful, go slow, don't force things, and when it doubt view and review the video and instructions!

    Lemuel Gonzalez - Contestar

    Alcohol or Ifixit adhesive remover is the trick. I used the tweezers to dip in the remover and just a smidgen is all you need, start on the connecter side and work towards the button. - On reassembly, I kept the screen protector on and just peeled it up enough to slide the button in, then used it to hold the button in place while I finished up.

    William Riggles - Contestar

  24. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 24, imagen 1 de 1
    • Al calentar el área alrededor del sensor de inicio / ID Táctil ayudará a suavizar el adhesivo que sostiene su cable delicado en su lugar, lo que facilita la extracción segura.

    • Da la vuelta al ensamblaje de la pantalla. Usa un secador de pelo o prepara un iOpener y aplícalo al borde inferior de la pantalla durante aproximadamente 90 segundos para suavizar el adhesivo que se encuentra debajo.

    If you don’t have that heating tool, a hair straightener n a T-shirt worked just fine for me

    www.tertlegerl - Contestar

    A hair dryer works well too. 2mins is all you need

    Mr Tegs - Contestar

    I did with a heat gun instead. I found the i opener not helpful.

    David Gordon - Contestar

    I need just 1 min with my hair drier, then the screen starts to pop and crackle

    Andrew Sims - Contestar

  25. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 25, imagen 1 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 25, imagen 2 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 25, imagen 3 de 3
    • Utilice un pico de apertura para separar suavemente el adhesivo que sujeta el cable del sensor de inicio / ID Táctil en la parte posterior del panel de visualización.

    It cannot be stressed enough that this is the one part of this repair that you can’t screw up. Anything else you’ll deal with during this repair can be easily replaced (The screen, and the sensor/microphone/camera assembly). Tearing this cable means an expensive trip to the apple store. or a very unhappy customer if you’re doing this for someone. Heat is your friend. I don’t even use a spudger or a guitar pick for this one, I use a new playing card to pull this up. Even with the card, you have to be careful. The edge of the playing card can nick the cable if you’re not careful to get it under the ribbon cable. If the adhesive isn’t soft enough for the card to get it up, apply more heat. Again, you can’t screw this step up. It’s all or nothing.

    Spartan99 - Contestar

    Thanks for the tip! worked great!

    Isaac Ham -

    Do you know what I need to do if I damage the cable?

    Hey hermano -

    Yes playing card is what I used too, worked very well. Just heat it up(I used a 3D printer bed for 30 seconds at 80°). Just go slow from right to left.

    cheap parts -

    Well, no visible damage but the home button won’t work. I contacted a local Apple Authorized Service Center to check options. Since I had personally replaced the screen assembly, they wouldn’t even look at it per Apple policy. They said they would jeopardize their Apple Authorization if they even looked at it. Seems like more of the “Right to Repair” problem to me. Frustrated, but at least I have the accesibility home button working.

    bandman - Contestar

    Make sure the home button screws aren’t overtightened; that often causes issues. If there’s any damage to the button cable, a repair shop with a skilled microsolderer can patch a new cable on and restore functionality. iPhone 7 home button not working after screen replacement? Worst case scenario, you can also buy a screen repair from Apple, and they’ll include a new home button. I am not a lawyer, but the response you’re describing from the AASP sounds way out of bounds. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I don’t know why this step does not include a major warning about it being by far the most challanging step. I started before reading the comments and most likely screwed my home button with it,

    I don’t know if it is a broken cable or if it was too much heat later…but I scratched the cable on the first try with the plectrum. It took lots of heat to soften the adhesive and then it worked WAY better for me to start removing the connector from the near side of the home button. And not, as shown, on the far side.

    Wish I had known that before - the homebutton ist not working anymore now (and it’s not the screws).

    Robert -

    Just keep in mind that this is a very delicate step that requires a lot of patience. the part is attached to the body of the phone so firmly and there is no gap to put the opening pick under. So the way I did it was applying a good amount of heat onto the part and not from behind. I did it constantly for 5 minutes, a few minutes at a time, then I pulled the connected up slightly (a little too much pressure on the pull and you will break the wire). Pull it constantly and If the heat has been enough to melt the adhesive, it should come off easily and slowly.

    ashkan eslami fard - Contestar

    Hi, a little thing to help : i heatened up and then insert a cutter blade to start. Work better

    Crasset Renaud - Contestar

    Okay the home button is connected, as touch id works, but I can’t get any motion out of it. I backed off the screws, but that didn’t help. What else can I try?

    kathwick2 - Contestar

    The home button on an iPhone 7 Plus doesn’t move at all. Anything you feel during normal operation is a small vibration from the Taptic Engine that tricks your brain into thinking the button is moving.

    markpetereit -

    Salve, vorrei un vostro aiuto, ho un problema con il tasto home (il tasto è originale preso dal vecchio display rotto) una volta sostituito il Touch ID funziona perfettamente (l’iPhone si sblocca e legge l’impronta digitale) il tasto invece no (il click per intenderci) cosa può essere? Grazie!

    bernabbo - Contestar

    I had to use the iOpener tool twice before the adhesive was soft enough to remove the cable with the pick.

    sschaffer - Contestar

    How do I get the home button out? I got the ribbon up.. just not sure how the button comes out

    Ash - Contestar

    Hi, i replaced the screen and home button, the home button was a bit difficult. When i turn on the Phone, touch id works fine but not home button function. Any idea ?

    Jim - Contestar

    More precisely, i was wondering if the home button could not work while touch idea does…

    Jim -

    Wow…I did a lot of praying during this step.

    tomnape - Contestar

    This was a very difficult step… I found using heat wasn't removing the adhesive for my home button. Found a video online that recommended using a playing card and a tiny bit of rubbing alcohol on the corner and slowly sliding it under. I was able to finally remove my home button using this tip.

    ryan pouliot - Contestar

    Heat via hairdryer applied for a solid 3 minutes worked for me.

    natjpollard - Contestar

    Thank the stars that I looked at these comments. I managed to do this and transferred the home button successfully. The pick is not good enough to do this job. The suggestion to use a new playing card helped. I also found that if you use a single edged razor to ply apart the bezel from the screen then when you apply heat with the heat gun the bezel will melt and bend a bit out of shape allowing you to use the playing card to lift the home button strip away from the bezel. The adhesive on the old home button strip was enough to stick it to the new screen bezel without having to buy new adhesive.

    David Gordon - Contestar

    Thanks for the tip on the new playing card and rubbing some isopropyl alcohol on the corner of the card! I also peeled back the metal plate on the broken screen to get that bracket out of the way for better access to the cable. After applying heat and slowly and steadily working up the cable with the card, the home button popped out in proper working order.

    Nick Nave - Contestar

    Given that the old screen was already broken. I cut away the part of the screen where the button is, this gave easy access to the side of the ribbon cable which made it simple to gently pry it up and separate it from the plastic case.

    Charles Hope-Lang - Contestar

    After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all - if you’re using force, you’re doing it wrong. All tips about direct heat, new playing card, bending back the metal bracket on the broken screen, screen protector to hold the replaced home button in place … perfect. Slow and patient, heat and almost no pressurel! Thank you all!

    dantegd - Contestar

  26. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 26, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira el conjunto de sensor de inicio / ID Táctil levantándolo por la parte frontal de la pantalla.

    • Para reinstalar, primero introduce el cable a través del orificio en la parte frontal de la pantalla.

    • Tu parte de reemplazo puede venir con un tornillo extra Y000 ya instalado en el botón de Inicio. Remueve el tornillo innecesario así puedes reinstalar el soporte de botón de inicio.

    • Sigue esta guía para colocar adhesivos de repuesto en tu pantalla.

    True to this picture, the home button can only be removed (and put back in place) through the front of the LCD assembly.

    Talon - Contestar

    OHMYGOD! Thank. you for this! After ruining *three* displays while inserting the home button from the back, I finally saw this comment…

    In my defense I had no internet access through some of these replacements… but really, I’m sorry to say, this merits a MAJOR warning on the guide.

    Cam F -

    Very good comment Talon. That was the first thing I was looking for here. There should be a bullet point in step 24 - Carefully remove home button from front of display being careful not to damage cable.

    Tracey - Contestar

    Had an issue when putting the screen back on, the side where the cables attach would not sit flush. At first I thought the cables were pushing the screen up. Turned out to be the battery cable shield was just a fraction too far down toward home button. After loosening screws, nudging it up slightly and screwing back in, the screen sat flush as it should. In case anyone else has same issue.

    jbarry - Contestar

    Is there anything special about reassembling the "home" button ?

    I tried several times with several buttons but none works.

    Lambiel - Contestar

    must use original button

    Christa -

    My phone is no more turning on after I replace the screen, no reaction if I press home button or power button

    cheryl.iseli - Contestar

    Why doesn’t this tutorial also cover the earpiece assembly?

    James - Contestar

    This guide is missing the camera transfer and the stupid little black sticker on the earpiece assembly that causes the earpiece not to work if that sticker is not transferred. This guide is wholly incomplete

    Mason Schild - Contestar

    This guide is meant for the ifixit parts, not other third-party screens.

    Ben Carter -

    Since I bought the replacement screen from iFixit and it has NO camera and speaker part anymore, the replacement of those parts should also be in this guide.
    And, the replacement of those parts (camera, speaker, true light sensor, and aprox. sensor) is the most difficult!

    Hannes -

    James and @computermason—You’ll want to look up the correct guide for your repair, especially if you’re not using one of the kits for which this guide is designed. The guide for transferring all the smaller components is here.

    Jeff Suovanen - Contestar

    No home button functionality? I just watched a video on YouTube from two years ago saying that the iPhone 7 and 7+ have to be taken to an Apple repair center for the home button to work. Is this still the case? If so why didn’t you tell me this before I ordered this! Please confirm before I start warning everyone not to purchase from you!

    Gregory Haycock - Contestar

    @ghaycock If you’re replacing a screen, the home button will work fine as long as you carefully remove it from the old screen and transfer it to the new one, exactly as explained in the guide. The button itself can’t be replaced without help from Apple (which is why iFixit doesn’t sell home buttons for this model).

    Jeff Suovanen -

    @jeffsuovanen If you’re replacing a screen, the home button will work fine as long as you carefully remove it from the old screen and transfer it to the new one, exactly as explained in the guide. The button itself can’t be replaced without help from Apple (which is why iFixit doesn’t sell home buttons for this model).

    Jeff Suovanen - 06/11/2019

    Jeff Suoven-I bought a new home button from Ifixit for this phone (along with a digitizer assembly) and it doesn’t work.

    Jeff Steffens -

    One thing I don’t see mentioned is the replacement of the rubber gaskets that are on the pentalobe holes. The replacement screen did not come with these on it. I was able to remove them from the OEM screen, but there was no easy way to get them to adhere to the new screen. If they move just a little, you might not be able to properly thread the pentalobe screws. Worst case is that they fall into the body of the phone during this last step of re-assembly. At that point, you’ve already started to have the screen stuck to the adhesive, so you would need to redo the entire adhesive gasket.

    You can see the gaskets in this picture: https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

    Here they are near the new screen: https://drive.google.com/open?id=14FwpSB...

    Andre LeBlanc - Contestar

    Thank you! I was wondering what those things did, and even lost one but later was lucky enough to find it.

    Ben Carter -

    I saw one mention about those small gaskets in a guide and now I cannot find it. I was able to slip them off the old screen and onto the new one. I would think this is an important step to help seal those holes for the waterproofing. They should edit these screen replacement guides to include this step. Thanks for mentioning it in this guide.

    sschaffer -

    If your home button doesn’t work after transferring to the new screen you might have a faulty screen. I spent a lot of time chasing all the suggestions here, but eventually resolved the issue by installing a replacement screen.

    nigel - Contestar

    WARNING: When you reassemble the phone, the little screws… You have to be VERY careful to not put any pressure on them until they’re really well seated, otherwise you will flick the screws into another dimension… they’re so small they literally just vanish out of existence lol. I ended up losing two of the smallest screws, one per bracket, and everything seems fine so far.

    The glue/seal is also nearly impossible to get right. Just mash it down into the general area that it belongs if it gets stretched/twisted and can’t go in perfectly. Some glue is better than no glue, just assume that any repaired iPhone isn’t water resistant at all.

    Nicholas Tenney - Contestar

    The biggest issue I'm having now Is replacing the gasket that goes around the home button. The original one got stretched out and the new on is too thick to seat correctly into the hole without being exposed and potentially coming off of the home button after a while.

    Eric R Deshields - Contestar

    I ordered a replacement screen from ifixit, but contrary to the description it arrived without the ancillary parts attached. So I had to transfer the front camera & sensor assembly, and the lcd shield. In case anyone else needs to do this, be sure when transferring the lcd shield that the screen cable sits properly underneath it (ie as far up towards the top of the screen as possible) or else the rectangular block on the cable will foul the loudspeaker.

    If this happens, the bottom right corner of the screen will stand very slightly proud of the case, and you will end up with a pressure spot on the screen.

    See Pressure spot on iPhone after screen replacement..

    Neil Wilson - Contestar

    Well I transferred all the parts properly, but the front camera wasn’t working. Reseating it fixed the camera but then when I closed the screen it cracked. I backed out to the old screen which is held together by tape, but miraculously everything including the camera and Touch ID is fine. Better luck next time.

    jack jones - Contestar

    I did not realize that the much cheaper 3rd party replacement I purchased also required the further steps of removing and replacing front facing camera and speaker. I was pretty bummed initially as it looked intense…however i totally pushed through using another ifixit guide and saved $50. My only advice to a first timer would be get a $15 heat gun or the bean bag microwave thing, the hardest part is getting it open.

    Cramps Delight - Contestar

    The cable is more than fragile and immediately broke right off my phone! Mine is no good anymore, but I wanted to warn everyone else just one more time…BE SO SUPER GENTLE and PATIENT…and even then, I’m not totally convinced that it is possible!! I was doing so well, right up to the point when I got to the one part that only Apple can fix and that will totally ruin your repair!!! SHAT!!!

    Good Luck all!!!

    jenn ross - Contestar

    I don't understand whether I need to glue the ribbon back down on the new screen. I have not been sent any adhesive for it. The guide mentions replacing adhesive for the screen, but do you mean the home button ribbon itself? If so, what should I use?

    charlie B - Contestar

    I can’t get the home button to stay in place when reataching it to the phone. Anyone know what I’m doing wrong?

    johanbogg - Contestar

    The ribbon in steps 16 and 17, when reconnecting and sealing the phone, is really something to be careful with. I feel like I smooshed it in, and while the phone works after the replacement, I feel like the right side of the phone, near the power button, isn’t quite set in 100 properly. I wish I would have taken better note of how it looked prior to removing the broken screen. Hopefully, it will settle in better once the adhesive sets. At this point, however, the fact that I got through the process with what I would call 99% success is a win for me. Just be careful of the aforementioned ribbon when setting the new screen on.

    Mike K - Contestar

    So I put the home button onto my new screen and the touch ID works however, when you press down on the button to return home for example, it doesn’t work. Any ideas what might be causing this? I made sure not to tighten the screws too much when reinstalling.

    Hayden - Contestar

    The home bottom sensor cable does not plugin into the new screen, if put it back to old screen it plugin nicely and directly , but on the new screen it does not stay, it does not plug in the new screen, what to do?

    mohamed elzaiady - Contestar

    The comments suggest the home button is well stuck down.

    Does the home button need adhesive to stick it back onto the new screen? If so, what do you use/where do you get it?

    Thanks

    Andrew Murtha - Contestar

    Very disappointed. Front camera and home button not working. And overheating too. I would like a refund Ifixit.

    Xavi Rojas - Contestar

    Esta incompleto, falta el desmontaje de los elementos de la parte superior de la pantalla

    Alfredo Alvarez - Contestar

    Did this back in 2021 after using i fix it tutorial on replacing battery i accidentally cracked screen when trying to pry it up with suction device and using spudger which felt wasn’t best tool for the job.

    Maybe i didn’t heat up device enough to loosen adhesive enough, who knows it was the first time doing this.

    Screen alone much easier than a battery replacement, especially second time around after cracking screen had more awareness of job.

    They make good tutorials here always like fixing thins myself then paying more to have someone else do it.

    DJSan - Contestar

  27. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador, Altavoz del Auricular: paso 27, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los tres tornillos Phillips que fijan el soporte del auricular al panel frontal:

    • Dos tornillos de 2.6 mm

    • Un tornillo de 1.7 mm

    I am measuring the screws; my digital caliper measures both the top at 1.88mm not 2.6

    Marco Cueva - Contestar

    I just checked the screw measurements and they match what’s shown in the guide. Are you sure you’re looking at the right screws?Are you sure your caliper is accurate? Was your iPhone serviced in the past and reassembled incorrectly? Something isn’t right. The measurements here are the screw lengths, by the way—just in case you were measuring something else.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    does anyone know the size of the srew on top left of the picture, next to the left red marked one? i know it’s for the earpiece in the display but i don’t know which screw has to be in there.

    butch coolidge - Contestar

    When reassembling the ear/speaker piece the plate and screws don’t seem to sit in snug and screws seem not to catch?? Any ideas what could be making this part hard to reassemble?

    ramsayapril - Contestar

    It sounds like something’s blocking the earpiece speaker bracket from sitting flat. It’s possible that any of the parts under the bracket aren’t fully seated and are sitting a little higher than they should be. There also could be bunched up adhesive or other debris stuck under any of those parts. I’d recommend double-checking that all the parts under the bracket are clean and are sitting correctly in their slots on the display.

    Adam O'Camb -

  28. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 28, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira el soporte del auricular

  29. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 29, imagen 1 de 2 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 29, imagen 2 de 2
    • Levanta y separa la cámara frontal para poder acceder al auricular

  30. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 30, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira los dos tornillos Phillips que sujetan el altavoz del auricular al panel frontal:

    • Un tornillo de 1.9 mm

    • Un tornillo de 2.5 mm

    Hi!What size is the third screw?

    Лёха Н - Contestar

    i have the same question. Does anyone know which size the third screw on the picture (not marked) has? would be great if someone can help me out with that. thanks a lot!

    butch coolidge -

    If I measured correctly, it’s a PH000 1,2 mm

    Bram Driesen -

    I noticed the the third screw is a Y000 on a replacement screen.

    Brandon Ferens -

    It is not necessary to remove the third blue screw in order to remove the ear piece.

    Brandon Ferens - Contestar

  31. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 31, imagen 1 de 1
    • Saca el altavoz auricular.

  32. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador, Cable de sensor y cámara frontal: paso 32, imagen 1 de 1
    • Calienta un iOpener y aplícalo al borde superior de la pantalla para ablandar el adhesivo que sujeta el ensamblaje de cámara frontal y sensor en su lugar.

    • Espera alrededor de dos minutos antes de seguir con el siguiente paso para ablandar adecuadamente el adhesivo.

  33. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 33, imagen 1 de 2 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 33, imagen 2 de 2
    • Utiliza la punta de un spudger para levantar cuidadosamente el sensor de luz ambiental de su zócalo en el panel frontal.

    • Trata de colocar tu herramienta totalmente debajo del sensor para levantarlo del plástico claro debajo. Si haces palanca solo contra el cable, el sensor podría separarse del ensamblaje de cable y necesitará reemplazarse. Si estás reemplazando el ensamblaje de cable/sensor de todas formas, entonces no importa.

    I’m sorry to comment but this step is wrong. The proximity sensor is sticked to the display. I was following this instruction and the sensor was unvelded from the flex cable. Now it’s workless. It’s a fortune that the only problem with the iPhone is that while calling and holding the phone to the ear, the display doesn’t turn off.

    I recommend to gently pushing against the transparent plastic enclosure near the sensor and once it’s unsticked, keep pushing against the sensor’s body. In this way the sensor welding doesn’t bear/support any extra load on it.

    At least, my iPhone 7G had the sensor sticked to the display. Maybe some day I will replace it (around 20€ - 25€ on ebay)

    I won't claim to iFixit nor stop using this website. Whenever I higly recommend to iFixt technitians to revise such kind of “errors”. At least for expensive devices like Apple products.

    Miguel Cretu - Contestar

    I editted this guide and added these two comments. I already know about this “trick”. It’s your own decision to follow my suggestion or not.

    Miguel Cretu - Contestar

    I have fixed 2 screens now on iPhone 7. The 1st time I didn’t have this problem, 2nd time I did. I would agree with Miguel Cretu and save yourself the hassle and remove the sensor and it’s surround altogether.

    Wayne Lyell - Contestar

    In the second picture, there is the splugger that’s on it’s right is near a little window square, white inside. I’ve checked my replacement display and it don’t have inside in WHITE in this little window . Anyone know why have this color (it is not a sticker) and what is the reason? Thanks

    fakirox - Contestar

    I also had to pop out the clear plastic surround of the front camera to put into my new screen. It’s just glued in, so heat and pop it out with a spudger. Best to do this step last so you don’t accidentally tear any ribbons.

    Grant Barker - Contestar

    I actually found that removing the assembly from the other side (like the step 35) is a bit easier. Also, heat is really useful! I took an hair dryer, and for at least 3 minutes I heated by interval the piece, and at the end, the glue was so soft, it was really easy to remove!

    Vincent Poirier - Contestar

    I forgot to read the comments for this step (unfortunately) and had the same issue like Miguel. I think the guide should write that “gently pry the ambient light sensor and its transparent plastic case from the front panel”. If you do not need the plastic case there is no problem, mine practically fell out from the rest of the sensor after turning it upside down.

    Kristóf - Contestar

  34. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 34, imagen 1 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 34, imagen 2 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 34, imagen 3 de 3
    • Desliza la púa hacia el recoveco de la cámara frontal separando el adhesivo que sujeta el cable al panel frontal. Deténte justo antes de los postes de tornillo.

  35. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 35, imagen 1 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 35, imagen 2 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 35, imagen 3 de 3
    • Usa la púa para levantar el cable de la cámara de los dos postes de plástico en el panel frontal y separarlo del último resto del adhesivo.

    на рисунке №2 винт 3 отсутствует, на рисунке № 3 винт 3 присутствует. нет описание где он был вывинчен. последний винт с правой стороны, около камеры

    Vitaly Savin - Contestar

  36. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 36, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remueve la cámara frontal y el cable de sensor.

    Look at the camera assembly closely. There are two cables soldered together. Do not separate the pieces by mistake . Get the pick all the way below both ,and they will come off together.

    turboduck2 - Contestar

    Good statement I made that mistake on my first iPhone 7 Plus !

    Jaye - Contestar

    Its not mentioned here but there is a small philips screw at the top left that you may have to transfer to your new lcd panel

    Steve - Contestar

    Hi Steve, what is the main work of this little strip with 2 small contact? Antenna? Shield?

    Thanks

    fakirox -

    do you know the measurements of that small philips screw?

    butch coolidge -

    I’ve separated the sensor and front facing camera, can I just press them back together or will I need a complete replacement

    Dominic Sore - Contestar

    About Steve comment, anyone know what is this small screw with two contact? It is an antenna ?? Shield??? Thanks

    fakirox - Contestar

    I’m also looking for info on the screw on the immediate left of the top left corner of the speaker. Did you find the info out?

    Cheers!

    Mike Grandbois - Contestar

  37. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador, Placa de escudo LCD: paso 37, imagen 1 de 2 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador, Placa de escudo LCD: paso 37, imagen 2 de 2
    • Remueve los tres tornillos tri-point Y000 de 1.2 mm de ambos lados del ensamblaje de pantalla, un total de seis tornillos.

    i miss the screw size here

    Beerbo - Contestar

    I think it's 1.2mm Y000

    STRAP -

    I d’ont think the screw size is correct, because i had to order a new heat shield plate, because my original broke during the replacement.

    Marco Burkhalter - Contestar

    I found if I held the flat end of a spudger behind the screw while I unscrewed, it worked well. Otherwise there was too much flex to get a good grip on the screw.

    Travis Hogg - Contestar

    good tip! Yes, there is indeed too much flex when removing the screws.

    amberron -

    My screws are too tight that I can't unscrew it. What should I do?

    Charles Bejarano - Contestar

    I have had this problem so far on all the red tri point screws. The first screw, the home button, and 4/6 of these. I have noticed little to no advice on each one or for stripped screws. I have been able to manage so far but not sure about this one.

    kimberly klassy -

    Here, I was able to use a soldering iron on the back side of the screw to get it quite hot to release the INSANE amount of loctite that was applied to my 7. Be patient and let the screw get hot. If you try to move the screw with the Y000 and it doesn’t move, WAIT. Don’t strip the screw or your driver.

    P Park - Contestar

    Good tip using the soldering iron. I’ve just ordered a quality Y driver as the cheap one that came with the screen can’t remove these screws. Why the the Loctite? Had to reassemble what I’ve pulled apart to await the new driver.

    Tony Binstead -

    I understand home button , but why do i need to replace the shield and camera/speaker?

    Ēriks Jaunzems - Contestar

  38. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 38, imagen 1 de 1
    • Calienta un iOpener y colócalo sobre el borde de la placa más cerca al botón de inicio para ablandar el adhesivo que la sujeta en su lugar.

  39. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 39, imagen 1 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 39, imagen 2 de 3 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 39, imagen 3 de 3
    • Usa una púa de apertura para romper el adhesivo cerca del botón de inicio que sujeta la placa de escudo de LCD al ensamblaje de pantalla.

    applying 1 minute of hair dryer heat in this step really helps the separation in this step

    amberron - Contestar

    definitely use heat and work slowly!

    Catharine - Contestar

    When assembling: The cables on the bottom of the panel must be very close to the panel so that the component/chip on the cables near the display connector slides up far enough to later fit into the recess below the Logic Baord. Due to the adhesive residue on the shielding plate, you must press the cables up before/during the attachment of the plate.

    Lars Weispfenning - Contestar

  40. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 40, imagen 1 de 2 LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador: paso 40, imagen 2 de 2
    • Con cuidado levanta la placa de escudo LCD del ensamblaje de pantalla.

    • Ten cuidado de no enganchar los cables de datos de pantalla al remover la placa de escudo LCD.

    En cas de déchirure d’une des nappes de l’écran lcd, y’a t’il une solution ?

    Darren Ziba - Contestar

  41. LCD iPhone 7 y reemplazo de digitalizador, LCD y Digitalizador: paso 41, imagen 1 de 1
    • Sólo queda la pantalla y el digitalizador.

    This step forgets to tell you that the camera holder is part of the LCD digitizer and does not come on the new one. Unless you remove it from the old screen you will have nothing to hold the camera in place when you reassemble.

    moose - Contestar

    Esta bien el tuturial me ha ayudado mucho

    ivan_oia_69 - Contestar

    Se puede sustituir el cable del conector de la pantalla ?el que conecta en botón itouch, se me rompió al cambiar la bateria

    Teo Llacer - Contestar

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

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Evan Noronha

Miembro Desde 02/05/15

223,223 Reputación

168 Guías creadas

49 comentarios

When I took off the home button, a small black square rubber piece fell out. while prying off the cable.

Can anyone tell me where this is supposed to go when I put the home button back on.

Joe in PA - Contestar

The small black square that fell off is originally located on the bottom pentalobe screw bracket on the screen. It can slide back over it if you place it right.

Primus -

useless guide without a guide how to mount it all back on.

The home button wont fit back in its whole

iffbas - Contestar

You have to put the flex through the hole from the front, and set the button against the front of the screen. Just like you got it out, in reverse.

Eric Davies -

The home button is a very delicate assembly. Once you have the home button's cable off the back of the display, and the screws off, push it lightly out from the back of the display. It should fall out.

michelle mcdonald - Contestar

Would be nice to show the process of making it watertight again.

Justin - Contestar

I have tried to fit 2 different lcd’s to an iphone 7 and the phone keeps going to apple logo and then black but when I disconnect the home button the phone load up

jamesreid1958 - Contestar

There was an apple update that fixed that issue, it was update that caused the crash

CPR Fredericksburg -

I have completed the screen repair, although now the iPhone takes minutes to boot up and then keeps freezing when trying to use it. I have connected the old screen just in case it’s the new screen that’s the issue although it still appears to be the same. Also now when I connect the camera flex at the top the iPhone just boot loops. I have also tried a new Camera flex with the same result. Can anyone help with either of these problems?

Donald - Contestar

When reassembling the home sensor and the front camera without using any adhesive, how will that affect the end result? Or is it implicit that you should use adhevise of some sort when reassembling?

Per Helm - Contestar

How do i get adhesive to make the phone waterproof again and where can I get a good lcd to replace my damaged one

Iyinoluwa Ayedegbe - Contestar

Hi, you can find a new LCD here, and new adhesive here. Replacing the adhesive won’t guarantee that the phone is waterproof again, but it certainly helps.

Adam O'Camb -

It has been mentioned here through virtue of the fact that Joe in PA queried what the rubber grommets were for after prying off the home button ribbon cable, if this is for a replacement LCD it might be worth adding a step advising that these need to be removed carefully by sliding them up and off the pentalobe screw brackets with tweezers as they’ll need to be moved across to the replacement screen, 3rd party replacements don’t come with them fitted.

Brendon Gould - Contestar

With a little time and patience, I switched out the lcd screen. My only issues are that even though i used the same home button, the finger print feature no longer works and the screen is way to sensitive that it has to be put on speaker phone for calls because my cheek touches the phone. i’ve been trying to find out if there is an adhesive that is supposed to be on the back of the lcd screen when i reassembled it or anything else i can do to remedy this frustrating issues.

Stacy Mails - Contestar

Is your screen illuminated while you talk? If so, the proximity sensor may not be seated properly, or broken. Trying to understand what you mean by the screen being too sensitive.

daimodess -

If I am harvesting another iPhone 7 for parts, do I need to remove everything from the screen? I know I need to move the home button for touch ID, but can I just leave other things like the front facing camera alone, or are those tied to the logic board too?

d0rk4l - Contestar

The home button’s Touch ID is the only thing that’s tied to the logic board. All the other small parts on the screen can be freely replaced or moved to another iPhone 7 and will retain functionality.

Adam O'Camb -

HELP strange situation. Bought an iPhone 7 stuck in a boot loop and cracked screen. Home button working fine. Fixed boot loop, restored- but after swapping the home button across to the new screen I’m finding the home button has stopped working. The home button still works fine from the old cracked screen... I thought the home button was married to the logic board? Any advice??

titcharoony123 - Contestar

Help please.

have changed it all out and it will not power on at all what is wrong with it

William Feltner - Contestar

I changed an iPhone 7 screen and I Get no display coming up. All connectors are plugged in properly. Help

Jerry Ramirez - Contestar

Installing the adhesive gasket was easy to figure out, however, the instructions on re-assembly should say something about it instead of ignoring it. C’mon, man!

jlauve - Contestar

There are extensive instructions linked in Step 19.

Jeff Suovanen -

I just want to comment that I LOATHE Apple for adding these Y000 screws.

Make sure you get a good Y000 screwdriver, because the crappy one that came with the replacement screen (purchased from Amazon. Sorry iFixit, the person didn’t want to spend the extra money to go with your screen) started to strip when I tried to remove the first few Y000 screws.

I had to keep filing down the screwdriver in order to use it.

Joe - Contestar

Hi. Any solution to fix Toich ID not working.

Deniss Ko - Contestar

So I work at a phone repair shop and went to replace the screen on my iPhone 7 today, and i accidentally grabbed an iPhone 8 screen. To my surprise it works, i don’t see any difference but i’m going to switch it out just to be safe. True tone doesn’t work either ;(

Zachary Larkin - Contestar

I have just recently changed my lcd screen on my phone and it would turn on but then when it gets to the home screen it would turn black while still on. I know its on because I could have siri call people up and it would work but I just cant see anything. Help pls!

maria noy - Contestar

Home button is going to work or not? you guys got me all confused saying is tied to the logic board, but that i need to change it to make touch id to work on the new screen, so what a !&&*? :(

carloscaste - Contestar

You need to keep your original home button and transfer it carefully to the new display, exactly as stated in the guide. If you do that correctly, everything will work fine. You can safely ignore any commenters claiming otherwise; this is how it has worked ever since Touch ID first came out on the iPhone 5s.

Jeff Suovanen -

I used this screen to repair an iPhone 7 and the home button stopped working completely a week after the repair.

Casey Mills -

Hi,

Who had problems with four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor and three 1.2mm tri-point Y000 screws from either side of the display assembly ? They do not get out and break.

andreyshtepa888 - Contestar

Hello, i repaired the phone and after it would turn on but after awhile it would just start turning off randomly and wont charge past %16 what happened?

Parker Wruck - Contestar

Back camera not working after screen replacement. The front camera and sensor are ok. What could have happened?

Ida W - Contestar

Just completed the replacement and my phone won’t seem to power back on. Double checked the battery connection and the other connections without any results. Any idea where I may have gone wrong? Not sure if it matters but when the screen broke it pressed buttons non stop and locked itself out until connected to iTunes.

Thanks in advnce!

Eric Davis - Contestar

I installed a new display on an iPhone 7 because the original display was horribly cracked. The new display was functioning perfectly but after a few days, the digitizer stopped responding to any touch. I installed a second display and the problem went away, until a couple days later; when the digitizer stopped recognizing any touch again. Any thoughts as to why this is happening?

Nacho Camacho - Contestar

I’ve ordered 2 replacement kits from different companies and both came with an orange translucent sticker on the back of the screen. What is this for? Do I just remove it and toss it?

Also there's a little blue translucent plastic thing near the camera and sensors. Is this also just temporary for shipping?

Thirdly the screen ribbon cables cause the lcd shield to bulge up. This made it difficult to press the phone back together.

Do I squish it into submission?

Darren Jones - Contestar

@oldman_winter Those plastic stickers/liners are for temporary protection during stocking and shipping and should be removed. As for the cables, if manufactured and installed correctly, they shouldn’t be causing any bulges. Compare carefully with the original part and make extra sure you have the correct part for your specific model.

Jeff Suovanen -

After change display NFC doesn’t work. Can anybody help with this situation?

Антон Шорин - Contestar

there are 2 clear plastic mounts, 1 for the camera and 1 for the light sensor that need to be gently pryed off and re attached to the replacement screen if they are not on there already…. i used a TINY dab of super glue for this!!

Mark Burnett - Contestar

Is it possible to transfer over the LCD & digitizer?

Hasan Bhatti - Contestar

Con mucho esfuerzo logré terminarlo y además aproveché para cambiar la batería.

No soy un profesional de este sector y a pesar de ello he conseguido reparar iPhone 3g, 4, 5 y 7 y este último es el mas complejo de todos los que he hecho con diferencia.

Me han pillado por sorpresa los tornillos en Y que lleva la mayoría de los componentes que hay que desmontar, cuidadito con ellos.

Una vez acabado y probado, todo funciona perfectamente.

Gracias al equipo que ha desarrollado esta guía.

jaume mito - Contestar

Non so perchè dopo aver effettuato questa procedura, l’iphone mi si scarica subito, infatti andando in stato batteria mi da la scritta “ASSISTENZA”

Questo da quando ho cambiato il display. prima NO. (era al 90% ora ASSISTENZA) Come maii?? Helpp

Oconner - Contestar

Ciao!

Ci dispiace che il telefono non funzioni come prima. Magari puoi provare di spegnere e riaccendere il telefono e/o di fare un reset. Puoi anche fare la tua domanda sul nostro Forum Risposte.

Se hai comprato lo schermo su iFixit, rivolgiti a nostro servizio di assistenza: eustore@ifixit.com (in caso di un acquisto sul sito europeo) o support@ifixit.com (in caso di un acquisto sul sito americano) indicando il tuo numero di ordine. Sarà un piacere aiutarti!

Cordiali saluti,

Claire

Claire Miesch -

When reassembling on step 39: be very carefull to position the ribbon cable exactly as shown on the picture! This might require gently pulling on the ribbon cable in order to position it higher.

If the ribbon cable is positioned too low, it will intefere with the motherboard when the time comes to close the phone back up. This will result in a gap between the screen and the body.

This caused me to ruin the freshly installed seal.

Wimar Schippers - Contestar

This is a great guide and it helped a lot. One thing to note is that the earpiece cable (the one that is a sort of U or J shaped is pretty sensitive and pain in the neck. My cable tore a bit but it didn't affect the end result. The iPhone works great now that everything is done.

Husein Roncevic - Contestar

I replaced the screen and a battery. After replacement I charged the battery completely and started trying out. It appeared that everything was working ok until someone tried to call. There was no sound in or out, I could here it ring when trying to call back but again I couldn’t hear anything and the other person couldn’t hear me. Tried FaceTime but again no sound or picture. Starting to think I have a faulty screen.

Any help would be appreciated.

Tim Laymon - Contestar

Just replaced the LCD screen every thing I can see on the screen is responding. All other functions appear OK .

BUT am getting a very wide striped green band on the left side and the rest of the screen is slightly hazy. Rechecked all connections also under magnification all plug and so ket pins appear OK. Managed to get into settings but have problem rea ding left hand side.

Has anyone any idea what I can do. That's without scrapping the phone!

Any help appreciated

Paul B.

Paul rb - Contestar

Wide green band down left side of LCD screen after replacing. Connectors appear OK. All the rest of phone appears to be working fine. Screen responds to touch.

Paul B.

Paul rb - Contestar

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