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Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s

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  1. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Extracción de los tornillos Pentalobe: paso 1, imagen 1 de 1
    • Antes de continuar, descarga la batería del iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de litio-ion cargada puede incendiar y / o explotar si se presiona accidentalmente.

    • Apaga siempre tu iPhone antes de comenzar el desmontaje.

    • Retira los dos tornillos Pentalobe de 3.9 mm de cada lado del conector Lightning.

    I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

    Magnus Dalen - Contestar

    For a secure working, put a small pot with lid on your workplace. When the battery starts burning, throw it in the pot, close it with the lid and get the pot safely out of the building, e.g. on the balcony or throw it out of the window. Do not try to extinct the battery with water, just let it burn out outside. This might take some hours.

    Raymond Willems - Contestar

    This is a really helpful one! My battery caught fire but luckily it was only one cell and not the entire battery. So it was done after a few seconds and I could go on with the replacement.

    Matthias Blab -

    Directions should say “use the P2 screwdriver head.”

    William Kolb - Contestar

    This step should have included that information. It was very helpful and important. Thank you very much.

    Jeffery -

    ifixit supplied a set of replacement philips screws (marked “Liberate!”). Thanks but I’m sticking with the pentalobe since they fit more securely than philips which have a chance of stripping if not held with the right amount of pressure.

    Don Libes - Contestar

    What are you supposed to do if the screws are stripped or won’t come out. No luck with the tweezers either.

    ibrokeit - Contestar

    Yep i‘ve had the same problem. One screw out, one that won‘t budge!!!

    Stennett -

    “cheater” reading glasses are a big help. Carolyn

    Carolyn Green - Contestar

    In this step, it is the P02 screwdriver from the kit (see that the nib has five sides , exactly for ‘pentalobe’ screws). All the other steps involving screws it was the Philips 000 (there was a third screwdriver Y 000 in the kit which I did not use). Did not have any problems at all removing and readding screws back through the process.

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    I'm trying to fix my 5s’s but one has some water damage, and impeccable screen but won't turn on,then I have another one that has no water damage, screens a bit busted but won't turn because of the screen. If I use the good screen from the water damaged phone would it work?

    samuel.m.fudge - Contestar

    After removing the phone from a very good plastic case and before I started the repair I cleaned the entire phone with a soft cloth misted with rubbing alcohol. That removes all the grunge which builds up in the seams of the phone and the small spaces inside the case. Having a clean phone to work on makes the job a lot easier and prevents grunge from falling into the phone.

    David Park - Contestar

    General comment about the screwdriver tips and reassembly: If you get a screw nicely set in place using tweezers and then use the screwdriver, the magnet will probably pull the screw out before you can tighten it. If this is a problem use just the tip (without the handle) to start the screw, then tighten using the handle.

    Kevin Patfield - Contestar

    DO NOT disconnect the screen.

    Benjamin Piscopo - Contestar

    Having two SE’s needing batteries, I ordered an extra battery. The extra battery did not come with the Phillips replacement screws. It would be helpful if every battery came with a set of case replacement screws.

    Dorothy Campbell - Contestar

    Upon reassembly I found it useful to squeeze the phone right above the screws so everything lines up nice. I noticed that when I didn’t do this the new Phillips screws were trying to go in crooked. So just holding the phone together helps.

    Samara Sullivan - Contestar

    hello i am replacing my iphone 5s battery but i am stucked because the adhesive broke whiles pulling it out

    before i started i made sure my battery was 0% but i am afraid that when i mistakenly puncture it with the spudger it might catch fire

    please is the battery capable of catching fire when it has no power (0%)?

    please can someone give me the honest answers before i continue

    thank you

    George Rockson - Contestar

    The screws in my iPhoneSE were not P2 (1,2mm) but P1 (0,8mm). I had to order an extra screwdriver which is not available at iFixit.

    Tadeus Nawka - Contestar

    Instructions were fine until removing the battery , No adhesive strip at the bottom of the battery . Unable to remove battery as the battery was stuck sold with adhesive but could not get at the adhesive strip to remove battery . seems whoever put the battery together did not put a strip across the bottom . Had the phone from new and this was the first time I tried to replace the battery . Now I need a new phone

    J Caley - Contestar

    Instructions fine until removing the battery . No strip at bottom of the battery hence impossible to get at the adhesive strips around the battery . This must have been done in the factory as I have had the phone from new and this was the first time the battery was being replaced . Cheesed off as I now need a new phone

    J Caley - Contestar

    30 minutes - to an hour? I gave up after removing the screws and spending an hour trying to lift the display with a suction pad.

    harwood - Contestar

    iPhone 5s maderbored

    Rahan Ali - Contestar

  2. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Grabar el cristal de la pantalla: paso 2, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Grabar el cristal de la pantalla: paso 2, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Grabar el cristal de la pantalla: paso 2, imagen 3 de 3
    • Si la pantalla de tu dispositivo está rota, evita sufrir daños físicos utilizando cinta adhesiva.

    • Pon tiras de cinta adhesiva transparente sobre la pantalla rota hasta que la totalidad de la pantalla esté cubierta.

    • Esto hará que los fragmentos de cristal se adhieran a la cinta adhesiva, evitando daños a tu dispositivo cuando se levante la pantalla.

    • Utilizar gafas de seguridad para proteger tus ojos frente a los cristales que puedan saltar durante la reparación.

    This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

    TerryChang - Contestar

    An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

    TerryChang -

    I faced the same issue. My 5S wouldn't open with the iSclack. Had to use the suction cup instead. Even then, I wrestled with it for a whole 30 minutes.. Apparently my 5S is one sticky beast.

    Daylen -

    Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!.. It is not necessary to take the screen completely off. I did my 5 that was and assumed the 5S had a different protocol for a reason. It doesn't require removing the creen at all. I was careful on my 5 and had no problem. I took different prcautions and watched only the video and screwed up a perfectly good 5S... This means if your not backed up you just lost all your contacts and messages videos etc.... iFix is cool except their Video is not concise like the long instructions they provide. I was stupid and figured I new what i was doing after doing a couple other batteries and bingo I screwed it...

    yaterbob - Contestar

    Before embarking on this task, be sure you don't simply have built-up lint in the lightening port. I found that with a needle and some very CAREFUL workmanship removing lint/debris from the base of the port was what was ailing my machine.

    mark40 - Contestar

    Before embarking on this, remember to order some new replacement sticky adhesive strips, as these do not come with the replacement battery. I didn’t realise this until I had removed the battery. I just replaced it without and have crossed my fingers!

    debsmcd6 - Contestar

    As to my comment above, I had to order them and fit them to the battery as it was moving around inside!

    debsmcd6 - Contestar

    There is no need to over tape the screen; one strip is enough if wider to make a full cover. My screen was super fragmented and it worked beautifully with just one layer of tape.

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    I didn’t have packing tape, because my kids apparently found it and used it all up. But I have Scotch tape and a 3M Command hook and that worked.

    Justin Evans - Contestar

    I would never use a phone in that condition until I replace the screen.

    guardian10 - Contestar

  3. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Prevención de separación de pantalla: paso 3, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Prevención de separación de pantalla: paso 3, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Prevención de separación de pantalla: paso 3, imagen 3 de 3
    • En los siguientes pasos vas a separar la pantalla del cuerpo del teléfono. La pantalla está formada por cristal y un bisel de plástico con clips metálicos en los laterales.

    • Da igual que herramienta utilices, pero debes estar seguro de que sacas toda la pantalla.

    • Si el cristal empieza a separarse del plástico, como se muestra en la primera imagen, desliza una herramienta de apertura entre el bisel de plástico y el cuerpo metálico del teléfono para que los clips metálicos de los laterales salgan del chasis.

    • Si estás montando el teléfono y tiene el bisel de plástico de la pantalla separado, deberías poner una fina tira de adhesivo entre el bisel y el cristal de la pantalla para mantener el teléfono cerrado.

    can this separation makes the screen stop working

    bassam_shallak92 - Contestar

    In my experience, dust particles have entered the screen, and partially ruins the wiewing experience, but this far the screen still works

    Iver søbakk -

    If the screen spilt and half is still stuck in the phone (clips broke and came out), how do I get the rest of the display panel up? It appears stuck, almost glued down.

    Shara Nelson - Contestar

    I was attempting to replace the battery on a phone that had been dropped once to create a dent in the top right corner, which pushed out the screen a tiny bit in that region, but not enough to break or render it non-functional. That all changed when I attempted to open my phone. I have a 5s and I had a friend’s broken SE that I was practicing on. I did not realize that either the construction of the screen is different, or that the dent in my phone would be that much of a problem. When I opened my phone, the top of the screen popped up almost immediately…. without the plastic bevel. It took a bit to get the bottom part open, but the plastic bevel in the top part was still stuck in the frame. I panicked and closed everything, but the screen was popped out from the frame even more and now when I turn on the phone, the screen has a green tint and won’t respond to touch :’(

    Zhian Kamvar - Contestar

    For reassembly, it is important to insert the upper end (the end opposite from the home button) in first, then pop the rest of the display assembly down into place. The upper end has protrusions which go beneath a metal lip. If done in the opposite (wrong) order, the upper end will not allow itself to be pushed down in place and will sit unevenly higher than the other end.

    Steve Bayes - Contestar

    I was replacing my 5s screen due to a cracked screen. I had used packing tape on it to keep the bits from falling apart while I waited for the replacement part, however, the tape limited my ability to use the suction cup for removal. After several tries I was able to get a firm attachment, however, the result was that the glass was being pulled up without the plastic rim. After several failed attempts of using plastic opening tools to wedge between the frame and the phone body, I ended up using an exacto-knife (a Stanley knife) based on another commenters suggestion. I knew I might end up scraping the metal but nothing else was thin enough to work. This approach totally worked for me so that I could get the frame lifted just enough to slide in plastic cards and wedges until I could switch over to the plastic opening tools. Luckily there are only very minor nicks (hardly even visible) on the metal. Thank you to that commenter, otherwise am not sure I could’ve done it.

    JW McAteer - Contestar

    Some articles show removal of the SIM card holder. Is this necessary?

    D Williams

    Dec 26/ 2019

    Don Williams - Contestar

    From the Step 13 photos, it would appear that removing the SIM card holder isn’t necessary on the 5s. However, for many mobile phones it IS a necessary step. If you do a lot of mobile phone repair, it’s a good habit to take out the SIM card holder to prevent damage.

    Eric Young -

    What adhesive is recommended for a separated display bezel? Reemplazo Adhesivo de Pantalla iPhone mentions that adhesive was only used for 2020 iPhone SE, not the 1st Generation. I haven’t found any other resource on replacing the 1st gen bezel adhesive.

    Jeff Lawshe - Contestar

    I didn’t realize there was a plastic bezel, how do I remove it?

    Nas - Contestar

    Kleine opmerking: correct Nederlands voor “plasticen frame” is “plastic frame” of ”plastieken kader”. Verder prima geschreven handleiding hoor.

    flitsdoortstad - Contestar

    Thanks voor het scherpe oog en de opmerking! We hebben het aangepast! Volgende keer kun je het echter ook zelf doen als een dergelijke fout tegenkomt! :)

    Thomas Keulemans -

  4. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Instrucciones Anti-Clamp: paso 4, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Instrucciones Anti-Clamp: paso 4, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Instrucciones Anti-Clamp: paso 4, imagen 3 de 3
    • Los siguientes dos pasos demuestran el Anti-Clamp, una herramienta que diseñamos para facilitar el procedimiento de apertura. Si no estás utilizando Anti-Clamp, salta dos pasos hacia abajo para obtener un método alternativo.

    • Para obtener instrucciones completas sobre cómo usar Anti-Clamp, consulta esta guía.

    • Tira de la manija azul hacia atrás para desbloquear los brazos del Anti-Clamp.

    • Desliza los brazos sobre el borde izquierdo o derecho de tu iPhone.

    • Coloca las ventosas cerca del borde inferior del iPhone, justo encima del botón de inicio (una en el frente y otra en la parte posterior).

    • Junta las ventosas para que apliquen succión sobre la zona deseada.

    • Si la superficie de tu dispositivo te resulta demasiado resbaladiza para que el Anti-Clamp la sujete, puedes usar la cinta de embalaje incluida para crear una superficie más adherente.

    DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

    Izaac Post - Contestar

    Thank you very much, however already used the suction cup and it came much easier than expected... Then snapped the home cable on my wife's phone... Now I have to replace that...

    Thomas Hallberg -

    This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

    Magnus Dalen - Contestar

    I used this tool on 2 successful screen replacements - BUT on the third time, the force did in fact separate the glass from the plastic, so I'd suggest inspecting first, and using with care.

    Andrew - Contestar

    This is the third repair using the iSclack it didn't have enough force to lift the face. I used the flat tool to help separate it. Thanks to those who warned against this tool due to pulling the glass face loose. I didn't think of that.

    ldavis - Contestar

  5. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 5, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 5, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 5, imagen 3 de 3
    • Tira de la empuñadura azul hacia delante para bloquear los brazos.

    • Gira la manija 360 grados en sentido horario, o hasta que las ventosas comiencen a estirarse.

    • Asegúrate de que las ventosas permanezcan alineadas entre sí. Si comienzan a desalinearse, libera las ventosas ligeramente y realinea las abrazaderas.

    • Inserta una herramienta de apertura bajo la pantalla cuando el Anti-Clamp cree un agujero lo suficientemente amplio como para hacerlo.

    • Si el Anti-Clamp no puede generar un espacio suficiente, rota la manija un cuarto de giro.

    • No gires la manija más de un cuarto de giro y espera unos segundos entre giro y giro. Deja que el Anti-Clamp haga su trabajo dándole tiempo.

    • Salta los próximos dos pasos.

  6. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Apertura manual: paso 6, imagen 1 de 1
    • Si no tienes un Anti-Clamp, también puedes utilizar una ventosa para levantar el panel frontal de tu iPhone.

    • Presiona la ventosa contra la pantalla, justo por encima del botón de home.

    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa esté completamente unida a la pantalla para tener un buen sellado.

    My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

    cpwittenberg - Contestar

    Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

    Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

    Craig Matthews -

    I suspect that the age of the phone and accident that caused cracks make this method possible for some people. My mom's phone was only a month or so old and the suction cup only caused the screen to raise slightly. There was certainly no crack I could squeeze a spudger into. I just superglued the suction cup onto the screen in the end, which was very effective.

    Caroline Russell -

    Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

    Malcolm - Contestar

    I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

    paul -

    This has probably been replied to, but see step 31 :) Should be re installed with the pokey out bits pointing down.

    daveoline -

    Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

    Lukeapple1414 - Contestar

    First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

    iGuys -

    My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

    Nathan - Contestar

    @malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

    hari - Contestar

    In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

    also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

    Robert Colvin - Contestar

    The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

    I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

    johnsonjohnr - Contestar

    Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

    daveoline -

    My battery had swollen enough to start pushing the display out. I was concerned that the glass and frame would separate during removal but using the standard suction cup and lots of work with the spludger (two person job) I got the screen out ok. I expected to have to re-attach the glass the the frame before reassembly but it went back together fine. I used a cable tie to avoid yanking the home button cable.

    Kevin Patfield -

    This happened to me too, with iPhone SE 1st Generation. You have to pull so hard that ripping the home cable seems inevitable. iSlack solved the opening problem. I don’t think iFixit should even suggest using a suction cap alone to open the iPhone SE 1st generation.

    John Messenger -

    I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

    I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

    matttaylor - Contestar

    If other people have this issue, I would try supergluing a screen protector over the old screen - leave a wide margin around the edges, home key, ear speaker. You could even just cut a piece of the protector into a square, or get a rectangle of shipping tape, the glued down portion needn't cover the whole screen. Then, glue the suction cup on top of the glued down screen protector or tape. I suggest this over the utility knife because it seems like the knife method would at the very least scratch up and nick the frame.

    Caroline Russell -

    i did this now i'm having a hard time putting the metal bracket back on :(

    sineglabs - Contestar

    1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

    2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

    3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

    4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    We got this to work. Some patience required, but absolutely doable. Our new iFixit suction cup did nothing, but a random one around the house worked fine. Just be patient and work it gently up, this use an opening tool or exacto blade to get into the seem once it comes up. Really quite doable. I'm glad I didn't spend 25 bucks on the fancy tool (a must for repeat use, I'm sure). But don't be deterred by the negatives above. Just go slow.

    Chris Twomey - Contestar

    I.did not read all the comments so I hope this isn’t redundant but my screen was too damaged to provide the air tonight seal that any suction device would need. The ifixit #3 flat head prayed the top out very easily. YMMV but I wouldn’t even try any other method before attempting to push the flat head down between the case and the glass. I thought it might bend the case out just a little causing a slight cosmetic damage but I have a rotective case that covers that anyway so who cares. Incidentally the case protected it from a lot of falls but not from gettin run over by my truck. A Prius once, but not the truck

    Bill Pennock - Contestar

    Oh and if you think this step is hard wait till you get to the screws on the home key or sliding the bracket back over the Touch ID cable connector. That is where the real problems are

    Bill Pennock - Contestar

    Single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - Contestar

    I agree but I found that I had to put screen cleaning fluid under the suction cup to get a strong enough seal. Also every time the suction cup slipped I had to turn the phone back off again!

    Micky McGuinness -

    I concur with Bryan’s post. The suction cup that was included with the toolkit that came with my battery wouldn’t hold to the screen when I pulled on it (the rubber was pretty soft, and the surface not smooth - not at all like the suction cup shown in the pictures of this guide). Fortunately I have a suction cup with a hook used typically for hanging things on the wall of a shower that held on quite tight that did the job - in fact, I had to use the point of the spudger to get under the edge of the suction cup to get it to release. I also used the zip tie trick someone else posted for making sure the screen didn’t open too far before disconnecting the home button cable, but it wasn’t necessary - I got the screen lifted with enough control that the cable was never in danger.

    stuart40plus - Contestar

    Suction cup supplied by ifixit worked for me. Of course I used all the tricks mentioned previously: Zip ties, work on one corner at a time, and work slowly - don’t expect it to pop out easily/quickly.

    Don Libes - Contestar

    Getting cocky after replacing a display screen and battery in a 6S i-Phone, I decided to open up my own -Phone SE and replace the old battery with a new one. I used one of the flip lever suction cup devices and it worked so well, that the display screen popped open so far that the Home Button Cable was torn off from the Home Button Assembly. I followed the instructions for re-assembly, but the damage was done. Lesson learned…read the Repair Guide before starting a repair!

    Peter Bovey - Contestar

    Suction cup for itself did not work for me. Then, I used a double face tape on it, and it worked nice (don’t try to remove the suction cup until you have fully unplugged the screen though). The suction cup should be used only to make a little gap for the other tools (spudger and that one which is blue). Sorry for the all caps, but ‘PULL THE SCREEN VERY SLOWLY’ (many people here commented there was a failure in this spet even being cautious).

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    I liked the idea of using an iSclack to pull on both sides at the same time but didn’t want to spend the money for one. Instead, I used the suction cup that attaches my GPS to the windshield of my car, attached it to the front and then attached the small suction cup provided with the tool kit to the back of my iPhone. Pulling both in opposite directions worked perfectly to pull the case open with minimal effort and no surprises.

    Gregory White - Contestar

    Instead of a ring handle like in the photo, the suction cup in my repair kit had a blue, plastic L-shaped handle with the vertical leg of the L offset from the center of the cup. Like others I used zip ties and placed the cup to the left of the home button and had the vertical leg of the L oriented toward the bottom of the phone. Patience is the key.

    Gary Grinstead - Contestar

    This is a lot easier if you take advantage of the fact that the coefficient of expansion is different between the metal case and the innards. On my second battery replacement, I heated a wet washcloth in the microwave, put it in a plastic bag, and laid the phone on it. Voila! Cracked the phone open almost like opening a refrigerator door!

    Dorothy Campbell - Contestar

    Thank you! This worked perfectly and should be added to the official repair guide :)

    Emi Soroka -

    This ⬆︎⬆︎ is excellent advice. I did excactly as Dorothy said. The screen disengaged from the case very easily.

    dbrick - Contestar

    Dorothy/dbrick this sounds pretty “logical to me” - Did you lay down the phone on the hot washcloth backside down - or did you wrap

    it around the phone? The idea is to expand the metal case while the glass of the screen does not follow the expansion. Not sure …

    Oberschrauber - Contestar

    Well Well her we are Ifixit saved some money with the suction cup pure junk great job guys! Who had this great idea? give him a big raise! The one in the picture is a much beter one, nice trick! You must have the Isclack tool !

    John Tourangeau - Contestar

    Oh what a pain in the neck this was. The suction cup is a hit or miss thing. But if you press down on it all over (center, edges, and the in between part) then it will stick reasonably firmly about 1 try out of every 5. When I did that, on the "good" tries, I was able to get the screen to move a tiny bit, not enough to put in the spudger. There was enough space for a utility knife blade to stick in, though it was a 2 person, 3 handed operation. I pulled the screen up (a fraction of a millimeter) and got another person to slip the knife into the crack while I was pulling. Then I was able to use the knife to get 1 corner of the screen opened enough to use the spudger the rest of the way. @flannelist gave very helpful encouragement in the Q&A forum. Anyway I still have the rest of the steps to go, so let's hope they are easier.

    paul - Contestar

    i am out $600 (and am VERY angry) because what should have been obvious to point out here was not. had i read the comments in this section before proceeding this may not have happened. yes, of COURSE you need to wrap a zip tie around the phone to prevent it from opening too far. prying on the case and pulling hard with the suction cup will undoubtedly result in the cover snapping open and, given the laws of physics (momentum) will cause it to open too far and pull out the connector. i can't be certain that was why my phone did not work after replacing the battery (as it did before starting) but it's a good guess. thanks a lot!

    mark phillips - Contestar

    The suction cup worked too well in my case. The display assembly popped right out and a ribbon cable appeared to come completely disconnected from the home button. I proceeded with the rest of the battery replacement and think it all went as it should have, but now my device doesn't indicate that it's receiving a charge when plugged in, and no combination of pushing or holding the home and sleep/wake buttons does anything. My phone was well on its way to brick status, but this one slip-up seemed to secure it.

    JCR - Contestar

  7. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Comience a levantar el ensamblaje del panel frontal: paso 7, imagen 1 de 1
    • El panel frontal tiene una serie de clips en los laterales, y hay varios cables que conectan la pantalla al resto del teléfono. Tu misión aquí es separar los clips y abrir el teléfono solo lo suficiente como para desconectar los cables. Vete despacio y con cuidado para evitar daños.

    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa esté firmemente sujeta al panel frontal por encima del botón de inicio.

    • Mientras sujetas el iPhone con una mano, tira de la ventosa para arriba para separar la pantalla del chasis a la altura del botón de inicio

    • Con una herramienta de apertura, deslízala por los bordes del chasis del teléfono, no por los de la pantalla, mientras tiras hacia de la ventosa.

    • Sin prisa, aplica fuerza firme y constante. El panel frontal tiene un encaje más apretado que la mayoría de dispositivos.

    Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

    llcoreyll - Contestar

    Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

    idmadj -

    Agreed, I really wish I had paid extra to buy the isclack. Didn’t because I thought that I could be careful—that iFixIt provided just the suction and it would take a few days to get the extra tool. Take the time. Its not worth it.

    Thought I was extremely careful—absolutely no movement or pull. Then pop. Pulled home button cord right out of its socket. Buying a new phone later today. The extra few days and additional cash would have totally been worth it.

    Timothy Fry -

    Found it very easy to do with a single suction cup, just wiggle and pry.

    emiserry -

    It may help to position the suction cup off-center and pull up one corner first.

    Rosemary McNaughton - Contestar

    Yes, I had problems initially (with the suction cup placed just above the home button) but placing it in the left corner did the trick.

    Brian Riess -

    Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

    Konrad Tlatlik - Contestar

    Lol. Evolved fingernails to open phones.

    Chal Miller -

    Wrap a zip-tie loosely around the phone to avoid pulling the cover too far off and breaking the ribbon cable.

    Thor Lancaster - Contestar

    Thank you for the zip tie suggestion!

    W Fleming -

    YES - the loose zip-tie is the answer. This gives you the confidence to exert the force you need to pull the cover up. And you do need a bit of force!

    Jeremy Rodwell -

    Zip tie is a brilliant suggestion. Very robust and safe way to pull the phone apart--I had mine wrapped just above the home button and kept the case from opening beyond about 1/8 of an inch.

    bartonh - Contestar

    Used the suction cup and only my screen came up. Looks as though the screen delaminated from its black aluminum mounting tray. The home button stayed with the tray as well. Any ideas?

    Kyle Rogers - Contestar

    I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

    adrt - Contestar

    We disagree with the naysayers. Patient use of the suction cup worked for us. The iFixit one didn't do it (it looked a bit deformed out of the box. But a random kids toy worked fine. Nothing fancy. Don't rush. Use an exacto as it starts to come up to slide in to the crevice. After that, works pretty well.

    Chris Twomey - Contestar

    The Jimmy tool worked for me. Managed to slide it in and twist slightly to pop the screen off without too much force.

    leeprobert - Contestar

    ifixit's sucktion cup and blue opening tool worked very well for me. I used the suction cup just enough to get the opening tool into a gap and gently pry out the clips. I'm glad that the display didn't give way too easily otherwise I might have damaged a cable. I wish I had read the zip tie comment first though.

    Scott Watson - Contestar

    ifixit's suction cup and blue opening tool worked well for me. Like the zip tie suggestion as a precaution.

    Erik Osborn - Contestar

    during reassembly, screen cracked worse than screen i was replacing!!

    Valerie Egan - Contestar

    Yup - I did the same thing… The top corner of the encasement was slightly bent from when I had dropped the phone and where the screen cracked originally. I didn’t notice it right away and when I went to “snap” the screen back down into place during reassembly, it wasn’t quite a perfect fit, and when I tried to press it into place, I cracked the new screen. Note to self - “check for small dents in the encasement and try to fix before trying to tighten down the screen”. The new cracked screen is still better than the one that I was replacing. I feel so dumb. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake I guess. Hopefully this little write up saves someone else from making the same mistake.

    Christopher Flynn -

    I also broke the screen (after replacing the battery). When closing up the screen, insert the top of the screen first, then lay the phone face down on a flat surface and apply pressure from the back of the phone. It worked for me…

    stopsurfing - Contestar

    This is a great idea! Works for me too!

    JC Alice -

    This comment definitely should be in the guide!! It is an awesome hint.

    Andre Silva -

    Yes, hooking the top part of the phone in first seems to be pretty important. Also the plastic rim had broken and detached, which made pressing the screen back in even harder. Laying the phone face down to press the screen back in that way probably saved me from breaking it. Major upvote on this comment.

    Leigh Martin -

    Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair. Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - Contestar

    Use some tape to limit how far the screen will open. I used wide packing tape, stuck it to the bottom of the display, where the home button is, and to the opposite side, on the back. It left a loop of tape, front to back, around the bottom of the phone, that had about an inch of slack. This allowed the display to pop off completely without any danger to the home button cable. No prying required.

    Michal Pawlowski - Contestar

    YES! I was just about to suggest this as I tore the home cable even though I was really careful opening it.

    Arthur Shi -

    The tape suggestion worked great! I used the suction cup, and the tape limited how far the display lifted once the snaps released. I’m sure I would have ripped the cable without this. No need to buy the iSlack to do this (if you have a suction cup)

    spyder13b -

    What worked extremely easy for me was I used a utility knife to score on the joint below the home button. The blade went in easy then lightly pried the screen up then followed up the rest of the way with the ifixit opening tool. I’m sure the ifixit Jimmy tool would work as well, instead of the utility knife.

    Scott Nacke - Contestar

    I wish I’d looked at the comments here before I tore the home button cable. I was trying to be careful and not to rip it but it just got away from me. Now I’ve ordered the replacement part…

    Graham Agnew - Contestar

    The glass of my screen went off at first and there was also a black plastic frame that I managed to peel off as well.

    At first I didn’t notice that the metal bracket didn’t come off. It was a bit of a struggle to lift the metal bracket.

    Wolfgang Bauer - Contestar

    Wish I’d read through these first.

    Used the suction cup but went too far when the display finally popped loose pulling the home button cable off the main board. Hope it was only the cable that was damaged - will try a replacement home button.

    Limiting the display’s travel with tape or a zip tie is an excellent idea !!!

    Leonard - Contestar

    I used the suction cup, but used a long screwdriver through the pull-ring help up with books either side piled to just lift the phone of the worksurface when I started to apple downward force on the phone. Meant that I could be more confident applying force as, if it did go suddenly, the phone would only travel the distance down to the surface. Had to add a few books as I hadn’t allowed for them compressing as I applied force.

    Peter Whitworth - Contestar

    This works SO well. I used this method, and it didn’t require much force to get one corner revealed to get the pry tool in there. After that it was smooth sailing. I had to reopen the phone a couple times to fix some things, and I was never nervous using this method. Thanks so much for the idea!!!!

    Colton Miller -

    We used the little suction cup the Ifixit supplies in the repair kit, NOT the iSclack. It took many attempts, patience, and two people working together, but ultimately we succeeded. Here are a few tips: soak the suction cup in very hot (just boiled) water for 5-10 minutes to get it really warm and pliable. As one person holds the phone and pulls up on the suction cup, the other should work the blue opening tool at the first sign of the display assembly starting to lift from the phone. Many times the suction cup would pop off but we kept heating the cup, resticking, and working it until we finally opened it. We used the cable tie suggestion above as well to be sure the phone would not open too far and this saved us when it finally popped free. Remember to work the clips on the side as well once you have a gap. Honestly, this took the most patience of all 62 steps! (Yes, there are 62 steps…only 54 more to go!)

    James M. Day - Contestar

    I could not exert enough force using the suction cup that came with iFixit battery replacement kit

    to pull the bottom of the screen away from the case. However, an X-acto knife inserted between the

    screen and the bottom edge of the case near the left corner allowed me to lift the screen sufficie

    ntly to insert a stiffer blade (a tiny screwdriver). Lifting further with the stiffer blade I was

    able to complete the separation by sliding the edge of a credit card along the bottom and sides of

    the screen. A plectrum would have worked as well. Using a knife blade eliminates the risk of dama

    ging the home-button cable.

    JPF - Contestar

    They really should include tips like a zip tie to prevent over opening and tearing the home button cable. Now I need to replace my home button.

    Lisa Jakubowsk - Contestar

    This step definitely scared me the most after reading all the comments, but with a helper this proved fairly simply. Using two suction cups I pried the case apart from the corner (not directly above the home button), just enough to barely fit the plastic opening tool into the notch. Unless you have 3 hands. Once in, you can release the tension from the suction cups, and simply pry the case open with the tool, to a satisfying pop.

    I used the zip tie trick, which is a clever idea. I don’t think it was necessary, but I would probably use this precaution again.

    Peter Spiegel - Contestar

    Patience is the key. At first I tried holding the phone in my hand and pulling on the suction cup. I finally put the phone on the table (like the instructions say…..duh) held the base in one hand while pulling on the suction cup with the other. I was getting movement but not enough to use the prying tool. After a bit of this I ran a razor blade along the bottom of the phone between the screen and the bottom casing. This broke whatever seal had built up between the two and the screen soon came off enough to use the prying tool.

    Gary Grinstead - Contestar

    In another guide there was a reference to the screen being pulled away from its frame? This was happening to me, so used very small amounts of superglue between screen and frome, applied using a cocktail stick. Left it for 24 hours. Worked fine.

    Wayne - Contestar

    I would echo most of these comments. I tried to be very careful, but still managed to pop up the display (it was very tight indeed), severing not only the home button but, as I later discovered, a cable at the other end of the phone.

    Really, get the proper tool.

    Ian Harris - Contestar

    razor blade: 1 min

    suction cup and other nonsense: 20 mins with zero progress

    Jordan Brennan - Contestar

    I used the iFixit kit (2019) with suction  cup. It worked perfectly fine. Absolutely imperative—USE A ZIPTIE (or one of the other suggestions such as box tape). It’s cumbersome to handle the phone and you might become preoccupied with positioning your hands that you apply an unmeasured amount of force.

    I wasn’t sure what to expect. Suction cup in place, plastic opening tool on the edge. As I adjusted hand position and applied force, BAM! the screen just popped up, and was saved by a ziptie.

    xtian - Contestar

    I had no problem using suction cup - put zip tie around phone just in case, but by slowly using plastic pry tool and pulling gently on suction cup from lower left side of phone, it separated quite easily. Keep prying around edges slowly so that you don’t get a big release.

    Patrick Pedersen - Contestar

    I pulled to dar when I did it, but got lucky and it only disconnected the cable right where i would have anyway. Everything seems to work fine but maybe there's damage and I dont know it. Anything to check?

    foyboy84 - Contestar

    I read about the zip tie precaution but as I didn’t have any in the house i just went on using the suction cup without any protection.. and in fact the phone snapped open at one point and the home button cable bracket flew away, as the cable separated from the socket… I imagined the worst happened but as the cable was still intact I wanted to check if for a miracle there wasn’t any damage, so I reconnected the home button to its socket and turned on the phone (still with the case open)… and I must had just consumed all my yearly luck subscription because everything worked fine including Touch ID!! So if you experience a situation similar to mine where the home button cable is still intact, give it a shot reconnecting and testing it before you order a replacement!

    JustATestAccount - Contestar

    This guide is flawed on this important point.

    I don’t see the point of posting a guide that doesn’t work.

    Other than the fact that i bought a fix it kit…

    It’s rattled my confidence in ifixit guides………….

    iain macleod - Contestar

    I’m not sure why you completely fail to mention the tool slot in the bottom left corner of the display? There’s a little slot here so once you get the screen open a little you can get a tool in and prise it open the rest of the way. I’m also not sure how people are destroying the touch ID cable here, it’s sensitive electronic equipment, so care and a bit of common sense is obviously required here. You have about 3cm leeway anyway, which I found was more than adequate. The display may stick a little at first, with years of accumulated dirt in my case, but with a bit of patience and gradually working away at it, it will release. Don’t be nervous and think you need an expensive tool like the iSclack, you really don’t. Just be really careful and don’t rush things.

    Jody - Contestar

    If you’re using the suction handle instead of the iSclack, I’d recomment tying a band around the bottom end of the iPhone to create a physical stop to prevent the front pulling away too far. Maybe something like a couple of tough rubber bands or a shoelace wrapped around two or three times with enough give to allow you to pull up the front, but to stop the it flying open if you pulled just a little too hard.

    I think a band of some kind like that should be included in the kit, it would be an inexpensive solution that allows people to use the cheaper suction handle but still safeguard the touch ID cable.

    Takako Jin - Contestar

    The suction cup of my Pro Tech Toolkit neither worked on tape nor screen, so I took the blade of my titanium scissors, pressed it against the side of the screen and lifted it while trying to find my third hand to put a spudger into the opening gap. This worked well in the end, but be careful.

    This step should also include hints about putting the new screen into its place. I was happy to press mine gently into the frame from edge to edge, feeling it bend but not break.

    sven - Contestar

    Suction cup does not work at all. I feel cheated. I will be taking the screen to a repair shop.

    cris@theworld.com - Contestar

  8. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 8, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 8, imagen 2 de 2
    • No intentes separar el panel frontal por completo de la parte trasera, ya que hay varios cables cinta delicados conectándolos.

    • Tira de la protuberancia de plástico para romper el vacío de la ventosa.

    • Quita la ventosa de la pantalla.

    Cracked my screen using the supplied suction cup. Had to apply clear packing tape to screen to very patiently finish the job. However, now I need a new screen. How nice :-(

    Scott Stathis - Contestar

    I added a double face tape in the suction cup to make it work, and then, I did not try to remove it until I had unplugged the screen. It was inconvenient not being able to work with the screen in a horizontal position when removing the ‘home button’ but it wasn’t also the end of the world.

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    To reassemble, make sure you slide the little counterparts on the top of the display under the phone’s frame first. See this answer: Screen won't close tight after reassembly. To close the display after that, I simply turned the device around (on a cloth) and pushed down on the frame with a lot of pressure. Much better than trying to close each edge individually by hand.

    ursbraem - Contestar

    This operation went fine in my case, but I was concerned with what seemed like a lot of necessary force to get the supplied suction cup to adhere to the screen - I didn’t want to crack the glass. After a few unsuccessful tries, I did finally moisten the suction cup and it stuck solidly. I was also surprised that some careful prying was needed to get the screen to release.

    Ed Austin - Contestar

    I ripped the cable. Now I need a new phone. aghhh

    Tymon Van Diemen - Contestar

  9. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Extracción del soporte del cable Touch ID: paso 9, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Extracción del soporte del cable Touch ID: paso 9, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Extracción del soporte del cable Touch ID: paso 9, imagen 3 de 3
    • Abre el telefono lo suficiente para revelar el soporte de metal cubriendo el cable de boton de inicio.

    • No abras el telefono demasiado o arriesgas dañar el cable de boton de inicio, o el enchufe al cual se conecta. Manten el cable flojo—si es estirado tenso, es demasiado.

    • Solo el ensamblaje original de boton de inicio del telefono sera capaz de utilizar la funcionalidad de Touch ID. Si rompes el cable, instalando un nuevo boton de inicio solo restaurara la funciones ordinarias de boton de inicio, no las funciones de Touch ID.

    • Utiliza la punta de un spudger para empujar y liberar el soporte y quita lo con un par de pinzas.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, asegúrate de orientar el soporte para que el lado con el punto mire hacia el inferior del teléfono y el lado con las dos rajas mire hacia la batería.

    I had put some what more pressure to suck and sensor cable got detached from upper part(display) , now what shall i do , how to fix it ?

    Nikunj - Contestar

    Is the touch ID bracket really important or have any use ? I forgot to put it back… Is it going to malfunction ?

    John Doe - Contestar

    mine did not appear to have a bracket.. I am wondering too if this is going to mess with it?

    Donna Godfrey -

    It's there to keep it firmly in place.

    Didier Daniel -

    My bracket popped out when I opened the screen too far, so if you can’t see the bracket, look around inside your phone. it might be hiding out.

    lucy -

    Mine also doesn't seem to have a bracket. Plus the cable unclipped itself when the screen shot free - yikes. Looks OK though. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

    Gabe - Contestar

    I wrapped a velcro tie loosely around the phone so it wouldn't open up too far. (or could use a zip tie) Then while holding the screen down with one hand, I pulled the suction cup up with the other hand, using gradual pressure. while using a "wiggeling" upward pressure, I concentrated on raising the left side of the screen, which gradually started to loosen up. then I concentrated on the lower left corner until I had enough of a gap to work in the the flat surface of the plastic tool. I then pried on this corner. The screen then popped up without stressing the home button cable.

    Harry

    Harry Jones - Contestar

    Genius. Pure genius.

    Aiden -

    This worked extremely well. Thank you! I used the tail of the zip tie as a nub to help hold down the phone while doing what you described. The left side of my phone opened easily but I had to use a combination of spunger and X-acto blade to free the end and right side.

    Once opened I placed the same plastic sponger just under the screen from one side to the other to hold it up to access home button cable.

    Daniel

    dleyes -

    This technique is fantastic.

    Boyd Waters -

    I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

    andy - Contestar

    DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

    Max Powers - Contestar

    God bless you! My bracket flew off & vanished into thin air. I actually spent more time searching for it than replacing the battery. Everything seems to function without it- but your post (and your wife’s experience) puts my mind at ease. Thanks~

    madriverlauri -

    You say you have to use the original home button. But what is the button "bound" to? The motherboard?

    Iver søbakk - Contestar

    Yep. Bound to the phone CPU.

    Michael Walker -

    When I lifted my screen during this step, the metal LCD shield plate did not come out with the screen. Very confusing. I needed to carefully pry around the shield plate's side notches, just inside the walls of the iPhone's back, in order to lift it out. Required a trifle bit more force than I anticipated.

    Zac Imboden - Contestar

    I’m already limited to using a touch screen home button. (physical home button stopped responding but fingerprint works) Would this take away that functionality of my on screen home button? does this affect the fingerprint security feature?

    Kris704 - Contestar

    I used the 5S battery kit that iFixit shipped me and attached the suction cup to the screen and gently started pulling to lift the screen. It lifted revealing a very slight crack and I used the spudger tool with the suction cup still lifting away gently and it opened more. At no point did I see any home button cable???

    When the screen came off more I continued to follow all the other instructions and have got to step 23 … I see no battery adhesive tab???

    Just loads of black electrical tape blending in with the battery seal. So now I have no clue how to complete taking the battery out?

    Completely bummed at this point….

    Alun Williams - Contestar

    Sounds like you’ve got an iPhone 5. This guide is for the 5s. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Be forewarned: make sure you really really want that new battery or display replacement, because you are VERY likely to lose your Touch ID feature on your phone after taking this step. It is extremely sensitive. The front of the bracket is the point of tension that holds it in place. In my case, as I carefully used the spudger to release the bracket, the released tension shot the bracket out of the phone and the Touch ID cable popped out of its socket with it. This gave me a start but I inspected both parts and they appeared to be fine. I finished the battery replacement, and put the cable back in place only to discover: no Touch ID. Even after I re-opened the phone two more times and finally figured out how to properly reseat the bracket, Touch ID was gone. Judging by this experience the Touch ID cable/pins must be insanely sensitive – perhaps one pin was dislodged by a fraction of a millimeter? I can’t say for sure. But sadly after repeated and careful attempts to reseat it, my Touch ID is lost for good. :(

    N B - Contestar

    Same here. I thought I was being very careful but ended up damaging something even though everything looked fine. No more TouchID for this old iPhone 5S…

    Michael Walker -

    There’s an easy solution to this step: use hemostats (miniature vice grip). Took me about 10 seconds (after over an hour using various other tools).

    Robert Smith - Contestar

    Attention in this part!! I had to put more pressure than I should, then the bracket flew away and the cable also unplugged all together (probably placed the spudger beneath the cable instead of only beneath the bracket). I was lucky nothing bad happened, but I lost total control in this step (it was my only mistake).

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    Tape the screen to the case on the sides with some slack to keep the screen from opening too far.

    Nace - Contestar

    My screen came out too far and the flexcable got ripped out of the home button :/

    Your solution should be part of the official guide, it’s practical and everyone has tape at home, wish I had it done this way.

    alf -

    Just wedge the sharp end of the forceps between the bracket and the plug and push until the bracket pops open. That way there is no danger of tearing out the entire socket.

    Imre Treufeld - Contestar

    One way to easily access the bracket (for removal and for insertion) is to rotate the display around the cable connection horizontally, so that the screen is not above the bracket but rather to the side.

    When disassembling, note that the screen assembly is hinged to the bottom on the edge away from the home button. After first opening the screen to about 30 degrees as above, slide the screen in the direction where the home button was to disengage this hinge (this is the first bullet item in step 13 below). Then rotate to expose the bracket to eyes and tweezers.

    Yishai Sered - Contestar

    This metal bracket snaps over the plug, and there appears to be a snap detent on the front of the bracket (side facing the charging port). The first photo for this step show the spudger on the side closest to the battery (above the holes in the bracket). I would recommend pulling up on the side closest to the charging port. Also, as others mentioned, when this releases it will go flying - mine did too.

    Take note of how it’s oriented before you pop it loose - it only goes on one way (can’t be rotated 180 degrees)

    When re-installing the bracket later, I inserted the side closet to the battery first (like the 2nd photo in Step 10 below), then rotated it down (pressing it down). It snaps back in place

    spyder13b - Contestar

    completed the operation without any real problems, except the Touch ID cable bracket, which was tricky.

    But when all was together - the phone is dead - no screen - just black even when attached to loading cable.

    I went back in and made sure the battery cable was clicked in, reassembled and have the same problem.

    Rosalind - Contestar

    Same here. Did you ever get your device working again?

    JCR -

    Is the photo (step #9, photo #3) wrong? The bracket has a rectangular shape. On one of the shorter sides (of the rectangle), the rectangle is ‘open’. Shouldn’t this be the route for the cable?

    xtian - Contestar

    xtian, I see what you mean, but I replaced the bracket as in the picture, with the open side to the left, and the cable exited the bracket naturally, without problems.

    Elizabeth Simon -

    STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

    Ashley Lahm - Contestar

    I lifted up the screen really slowly and kept the cable fully slack, but it was in two halves! The bit that folds back is seperate, have I wrecked Touch ID?

    TheRe - Contestar

    Help. Is there some trick to getting the home button reconnected? I gave up on reattaching the bracket, but the home button doesn’t work at all because the connection isn’t seated right. This is a problem as you can imagine. This was in the course of a battery replacement. Any tips greatly appreciated.

    Jeanne Bredestege - Contestar

    My phone did not have this bracket. Our other SE did.

    Dorothy Campbell - Contestar

    Like the first comment, it sprung open and the cable detached from the button. What can I do? How to I re-attach or get a new button with a new cable?

    Robert Venning - Contestar

    Dieser Teil ist der schwierigste, Ich habe zig Versuche gebraucht bei denen mir die Klammer immer wieder weggesprungen ist.

    Ich habe insgesammt deutlich über 2 Stunden gebraucht, hauptsächlich weil mir beide Klebestreifen abgerissen waren.

    Warum sind alle Kommentare in der deutschen Anleitung in englisch?

    mit_dt - Contestar

    Hallo! Derzeit gibt es noch nicht so viele Kommentare auf deutsch, wir zeigen daher alle Kommentare bei den Anleitungen an, egal in welcher Sprache sie geschrieben wurden, weil es ja trotzdem hilfreich sein kann, sie zu lesen. Du kannst oben rechts im Menü der Sprachauswahl die “machine translation” auf “ON” stellen, dann werden die Kommentare automatisch über Google translate übersetzt. Das ist zwar manchmal nicht so gut verständlich, aber besser als nichts, dachten wir.

    Sandra Hiller -

    The bracket is magnetic. I found it with a pair of large flat magnets from 1980s speaker woofers, but hard drive magnets should work too. It bounced off my lap to a meter away. I should have read comments FIRST.

    keesan - Contestar

    Okay, I'm confused. I just read on this site that all iphones post 6 you can use a different cable. Now mind you I have a 1st gen iphone SE, but this is the site that fixes for my phone are sent to... so am I screwed, or not? I have the original home button, so is there anyway to attach the cable off the replacement (OEM) top piece to my own home button? Thanks

    george - Contestar

  10. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 10, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 10, imagen 2 de 2
    • Durante el reensamblaje, necesitaras reinstalar el soporte del cable de Touch ID. La parte superior del soporte necesita ser deslizada entre la bateria y el conector de cable de Touch ID, en frente de la pestaña de metal, y la parte delantera debe de cerrar sobre el conector.

    • Desliza la parte superior del soporte sobre el conector de cable de Touch ID de la izquierda a la derecha.

    This is the hardest part lol

    Bob smith - Contestar

    I concur! I think I need thinner tweezers.

    FierDancr -

    1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone. Mine didn't "latch down" or stay in place - it just sort of sat there.

    2) Note that the rest of the bracket this attaches to must be removed from the Lightning Connector assembly & reattached to the new one.

    3) I combined this repair w/replacing the battery, and smashed the bottom of the bracket under the battery/adhesive strips. Careful not to do that, so that you can actually complete this step.

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone.

    Sorry, but I believe this is wrong. Besides, the ‘clip(s)’ is not the important feature here. This bracket has a rectangular footprint, and one of the two shorter sides (of the rectangle) is open. This open side, I believe, is the route for the cable.

    xtian -

    Comment above was made on the Lightning Connector replacement guide - I guess it got pulled over here since as well since the steps are identical ... Anyway careful not to smash the bottom bracket w/the replacement battery or adhesive

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    That was fun without tweezers :)

    Oscar - Contestar

    Even with tweezers (the eyebrow kind) it was still an exercise in extreme calming techniques. I nearly gave up, but after 20 minutes I finally got it to seat and clamp.

    natzulf -

    It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

    copeconsultancy - Contestar

    I think it's the pics and the word 'slide' that throws people off. I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place. Still the guide had this down for me in 30 minutes even with the 'hardest part' haha and the part from ifixit worked and looked perfect.

    Brent Hillyer - Contestar

    After reading the comments I was not looking forward to this step on re-assembly. I agree that the pictures and the instruction to “slide” the bracket into place may be worrisome. But I was able to orient the bracket directly over where it was supposed to go. Then inserted the 2 clips (top) in first and easily and gently snapped the bottom clip into place. Probably spent less than a minute on this part.

    Jere -

    After about 20 minutes I wonder if I could just snap it in place. I did it in about 15 seconds.

    The “slide part and accompanying images are really misleading.

    jpfranc -

    It took me 10 minutes to accomplish this step; 9’:55’’ I spent reading the comments and 0:05’’ plugging the bracket the way you describe. This step step should be edited in this guide. It is definitely misleading people.

    Andre Silva -

    I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place.

    Tried this and yes, it worked well. Touch ID works.

    Basil Skrnk -

    DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

    Max Powers - Contestar

    Not everyone should ditch the bracket just because you did. The bracket is there to keep everything firmly in place.

    Didier Daniel -

    I did finally leave it off. I’m sure if I worked for Foxconn I could snap those on in seconds flat. After 30minutes of trying I figured it would either work or I’d have to spring fo a new phone. It just wasn’t gonna happen for me. Right now it’s working so it’s all about reliability now

    Bill Pennock -

    I'm not so patient, so I finally gave up and ditched the bracket. No problem so far. Anyway, ditch it at your own risk!

    Daniel del Saz -

    On an old 5S, the metal retainer bracket snapped in easily. There was no sliding, the rear edge dropped in straight, it hinged down, and locked almost before I knew it. The lack of a click or any positive feel on this critical connector surprised me a lot. I had to eyeball it with a magnifier to feel sure the ribbon connector was really in its socket. Works perfectly after the replacement, though.

    Jeff Clayton - Contestar

    All this time I was trying to put the bracket right next to the battery but that's not right. There's no way the bumps on the metal connector can fit in the slots on the bracket. It's battery, metal connector and then the bracket. So easy. Next time I dismantle an iPhone 5S I won't be dreading this step.

    Kim Mace - Contestar

    I should NOT have had that cup of coffee before I attempted this!

    Cory Powell - Contestar

    This was definitely the fiddliest bit of the whole reassembly.

    After trying the slide in and then press method many times without success I ended up feeding it in directly with the tweezers, carefully angling it back up into position, then clipping it down. But the whole thing took at least 5 minutes. And my shaky hands didn’t help matters!

    Toby Moncaster - Contestar

    I was sweting gallons during this step!

    Timothy Owens - Contestar

    The replacement of the bracket was tricky. The bracket has to be put in under the two tiny tabs in the back (next to the battery) and then pushing down in the front. I knew I had it when I heard a little click from the one tab in the front seating.

    Ron Wagner - Contestar

    HI Ron, you are almost right. Or at least I did clip in the front part first and then just push the back while the back side was in between the home button connector and that two pins (the bracket on the “board”). As you said it just click in and you could hear. That was after I tried put the back first and then clip the front for 15 min.

    Martin Chudomel -

    This step needs to be explained better! The metal bracket needs to be slid in front of the metal connector near the battery and then clicked down. I've been stuck on this step as I kept trying to slide it between the metal connector and battery!!

    Whitney Hourigan - Contestar

    Updated the text a bit, while correct, it didn’t mention the metal tab in relation to the battery and cable connector. Hope this helps the next person!

    Sam Goldheart -

    This was the most helpful when trying to get the bracket back on! Once you understand that it “clips” on after you slide it on, it makes getting the bracket back on much more easy.

    Jose Gutierrez -

    And for this step felt like a life long career of tiddly winks had commenced

    Jake Baxter - Contestar

    It is confusing in reassembly, that the steps 10 and 11 are in the ascending order, because we follow the guide backwards (I suggest explaining the correct sequence: …, 12, 10, 11, and ??. ?? —> This is another point of confusion, the next step is to fit the screen back in, but because there are many (alternative) steps to open the phone, all the useful comments about closing it are spread among topics 3 to 9. There should have been a box (step) exclusively to the part of fitting the screen , so the explanation is more clear and comments are put all together. There are extremely useful comments here that should be edited in the guide (to make it even better).

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    I am having trouble connecting the home button connector to the phone cpu? Not sure why it's not staying connected but was wondering it there was any advice. I've tried for about 20 minutes just trying to line it up and press it down but no luck…

    Trayvon Banks - Contestar

    3 times I’ve had to repair my 5S & this was the most frustrating part each time. This time I cheated & just placed the cover back on top of the cable & closed the phone up. No clicking or sliding or fumbling with it. Look at it from the left side & it’s a bit easier to see where it winds up, but I didn’t fuss with it. Phone works fine now anyway.

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    Reinstallation.

    I struggled for a short time to get the bracket back into place. The bracket has a rectangular footprint. One edge has 1-clip and the other edge has 2-clips. I thought the 1-clip side was a ‘hook’. Haha. NOT! After taking a closer look, I could see the shape and understood how the piece should fit. It SNAPS into place.

    xtian - Contestar

    anyone else have any issues with the home button? i did everything according to the directions, but now the home button/fingerprint id is not working. Help!

    Robert Hartry - Contestar

    Reseating the Touch ID cable connector is definitely the trickiest part.

    Press fit for the connector back into the female connector side doesn’t snap in as it does on the other connectors.

    It took me 3 tries before the Home button would acknowledge the Touch ID. Make sure the connector is fully engaged by gently pushing the connector sidewise with the sprudger after you have seated the connector to make sure it is fully engaged. Gently though until it is clear there is resistance and it does not move.

    paul naecker - Contestar

    This step is incredibly difficult. I finally got the sensor snapped into place (gently), but could not get the clip in. Worst part was I placed the battery too close to the sensor chassis. So I think this is why I could not “slide” the clip into place. In the end, I left the clip off and put the phone back together. Everything works as before.

    John Schafer - Contestar

    STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

    Ashley Lahm - Contestar

    I gave up also. Pressed down too hard and bent the part it clips onto. Just put a blob hot glue or Blu-tak in place. No problem. Works fine. Stupid design.

    blackettfenwicks - Contestar

    Wish I’d read the comments before attempting this step. I spent five minutes unsuccessfully trying to use the tweezers to slide the bracket onto the connector from left to right as described, then in frustration I squeezed too hard and the clip pinged out of the tweezers and vanished. Ten minutes searching the room and it was nowhere to be found. I’ll probably find it while tidying up in five years’ time and wonder what it is. I finished reassembling the phone without it and everything is working fine so far. Perhaps the home button connector is more likely to come loose if I drop the phone, but if it does at least I know how to pop it open and reconnect it.

    Alex Holden - Contestar

    I checked this on YouTube when re-assembling. The small tongue should be at the front and you should slide the clip to the right as far as it will go before pressing the bracket into place.

    harwood - Contestar

    This is hands down the hardest part.

    Worst thing is, that bracket lands always on the wrong side, when its dropped on the table to be picked up with tweezers, what are the odds?

    Joking aside, I ended up doing it slightly differently as in the instruction. I was not able to slide the bracket in from the side. It always slipped from the tweezers and was a pain.

    In the end, I took a different approach:

    Put the bracket on top of the connector, but too far towards the charging port (bottom of the phone); it will be angled towards the charging port, since the rear lip of the bracket still sits on top of the connector

    Then, align it above the connector (left/right) place a finger on it and push it towards the battery

    The lip will slide between the connector and the back fence, the front hook will also slide in place

    Finish it by pressing it down with the flat side of the spudger.

    Niklas Möller - Contestar

    I ripped this cable by accident. Definitely the hardest part

    Tymon Van Diemen - Contestar

    Oh bracket, what bracket? I just realized that I have indeed lost the bracket and just snapped the connector into the phone and screwed it shut. The 2010 battery swelled so much that is pushed the whole screen open so if I get a year out of it then great - just for the kids to mess about with. The Touch ID stopped working long ago but I'll know what to look for when the home button stops working. But 13 year old battery - wow and it just died here in 2023, but phone was not really used for past 6 years or so but I swear it powers up a year ago.

    buy - Contestar

  11. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 11, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 11, imagen 2 de 2
    • Utiliza la parte plana de un spudger para levantar la parte delantera del soporte del cable de Touch ID sobre el conector del cable.

    • Si el soporte no esta alineado cuando al cerrar, necesitaras quitar el soporte y deslizarlo sobre el conector de cable otra vez para un encaje mejor.

    It seems like a couple of these steps are reassembly steps? I wish they would label them as such. This step and step 10 are for reassembly, and it's confusing.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Contestar

    See the information line on Step 9 that says this exact thing?

    Elliot Fleming - Contestar

    STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

    Ashley Lahm - Contestar

    The little clip is an utter “#*+}{ to refit. I gave up and put a drop of hot glue on or you could use blue tack. Makes no difference. Phone works fine.

    blackettfenwicks - Contestar

    I gave up assembling this little bracket and left it out. phone’s been working fine for past 10 minutes. I wonder if this will be a problem later though.

    rkain.kim - Contestar

    As has been well noted, reassembly of this clip is not self-evident. The clip itself is not a symmetrical piece; rather, it has a small tab on one side. What is its purpose and what is the correct alignment of the tab as it’s placed over the connector? Moreover, the available iFixit tools are not adequate to align and place into correct position, especially considering the restricted space (and light) to work in. After studying the problem, I decided to use a piece of rope caulk (used for weatherstripping) with its sticky texture to hold the clip in correct alignment before pressing it into final position.

    Peter Hartwick - Contestar

    As put so eloquently by many wise ones before me, that bracket is a %^#* to get back in. My approach was to put the needlenose tweezer tips through the two holes in the top, and push gently in the direction of the top of the phone as I applied downward pressure. With luck, I had it lined up JUST right on my 947th try, and it snapped right into place. Yikes.

    Max Discher - Contestar

    Got a message saying Touch ID couldn’t be activated. Reseated and back to normal.

    Instead of just lifting the screen to reassemble the clip you can turn the screen sideways so that it’s no longer covered.

    Stephen Shaw - Contestar

    The clip is not symmetrical! The side with one snap goes towards the speakers. CAREFULLY use the tweezers to gently set the clip down with the correct orientation. Then use the spudger to press it into place. (Sometimes one side, then the other side.)

    Take your time.

    Annette - Contestar

    Reassembly: It’s very often that you get the cable to snap to the connector on the board, but find that the device doesn't work properly. In most cases, re-seating the cable fixes the problem. S

    Sometimes, it's a bent pin on the connector, and then you have a problem… While I have been able to fix desktop CPU socket pins, I have never tried to fix a busted surfaces mount connector like these. I don't know if that's possible.

    Boyd Waters - Contestar

  12. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Desconectando el botón de inicio: paso 12, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Desconectando el botón de inicio: paso 12, imagen 2 de 2
    • Utiliza la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca y desconectar el conector de cable del boton de inicio.

    • Asegúrate de que estés separando el conector de cable de su enchufe y no estés haciendo palanca al enchufe. El enchufe esta en su propio cable que esta pegado y puede ser desconectado si no tienes cuidado.

    Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

    Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

    Keystone - Contestar

    Reassembly:

    The original part bends the bottom home button connector back on itself into a bracket you have to remove (not mentioned in later steps).

    That bracket has a bit of adhesive to keep the bottom connector in place.

    The replacement part does not come with a bracket, or additional adhesive, so the bottom connector flops around & can make reassembly a challenge. I found it was best to hold right edge of the bottom in place w/1 finger, and use a 2nd finger to slide the upper cable connector left to right and click it into place.

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    Also worth mentioning is that upon reassembly, make sure that the home button cable folds to the left (away from the side with the SIM card) as the front panel will not fit properly otherwise.

    Brian Riess - Contestar

    这个地方必须小心,我上次就把底部接口搞坏了,害我换个电池的同时还换了一个尾插

    Zhou Lin - Contestar

    非常感谢!我正在准备更换朋友的电池。你的提醒很有用~

    Liu bing -

    STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

    Ashley Lahm - Contestar

    The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful.

    There is a mistake into the sentence …is on its own A glued-down cable…

    Diederik Wiersma - Contestar

    itself is even better

    kind regards

    Diederik Wiersma - Contestar

    put a piece of tape over the edge so you don’t rip the cable out like I did. I replaced the battery a few years ago and the screen came out muck easier. this time I broke the cable. Good-bye touch ID and iPhone 5S now I can only unlock the screen with a full reboot and home button is gone. to the trash can it goes! had it many years.

    ethan briggs - Contestar

  13. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Abriendo el teléfono: paso 13, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Abriendo el teléfono: paso 13, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Abriendo el teléfono: paso 13, imagen 3 de 3
    • Una vez que el conector del botón home ha sido desconectado, tira de la pantalla con el cable del botón home fuera del chasis utilizando la parte superior del telefono como una bisagra.

    • Abre la pantalla en un angulo de 90º y asegúrala contra algo para mantenerla apoyada mientras trabajas en el telefono.

    • Agrega una bandita elastica para mantener la pantalla asegurada en su lugar mientras trabajas. Esto previene tension excesiva en los cables de pantalla.

    • Si no hay mas remedio, puedes utilizar una bebida enlatada sellada para detener la pantalla.

    maak een constructie waar de iPhone in valt en waarbij het scherm in een hoek van 90 graden kan worden gefixeerd, dan hoef je drie kabeltjes niet los te maken. Is mij heel goed gelukt .

    Joop Roos - Contestar

    Out of curiosity I decided to use google translate…here it is in English. “make a construction where the iPhone falls and the screen can be fixed at a 90 degree angle, you do not have to unlock three cables. I did very well.”

    Kelly Ann - Contestar

    Take a look at 3rd pic in step #13. Letting U know that this is basically what Joop Roos was trying to say. I tried it and it works very well, with one caveat: as U continue to work on your phone, it may move around a bit. Mine did, and after new battery was connected I moved phone around enough to accidentally press the button on top and it booted while the screen was still rubber banded to the box. I removed rubber bands and waited till I could touch “cancel” then pressed and held top button till the “slide to power off” thing showed up on the screen and then did so. After completion, everything was good with no problems. I think I was lucky. Please be mindful if U use this method of not disconnecting these cables in top right area.

    Siegfried - Contestar

    No need to remove the screen or any cable except that which is directly connected to the home button!!! just prop it open the phone with screen facing up, an angle of about 45 to 60 degrees will give enough working space to remove and replace the home button.

    The trickiest part is connecting the home button cable and getting its retaining clip in place.

    Dickon - Contestar

    We found the opening was not exactly easy to 90°, finally it did open completely. Be careful on the last degrees, the cables may pull little bit on the metal piece you are about to unmount in the next step. No worries, all worked fine. Just - be gentle with the cables when opening.

    Bernd Saegmueller - Contestar

    I was unable to remove one of the screws, but removing one and then just pivoting the battery connector bracket worked just fine.

    Gary Carlson - Contestar

    I think the little tabs at the top of my front panel assembly broke at this step. I found two little pieces of plastic inside the phone later on, and now, with everything finished and put back together, the top of the screen is a little loose: it’s seated 1-2mm too high and moves in when I press it.

    Maybe I should have pulled the top of the assembly out of the rear case, before hinging it up?

    Jacob Rosen - Contestar

    Kleine opmerking: correct Nederlands voor “blikje drinken” is “drankblikje”.

    flitsdoortstad - Contestar

    I took a spudger and proped up the screen with that. Works great!

    guardian10 - Contestar

  14. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 14, imagen 1 de 1
    • Quita los tornillos Phillips #000 de 1.6 mm del conector metalico de la bateria a la placa logica.

    I don't see why steps 14, 15, and 16 are even necessary. I was able to remove the scene without removing the battery (skipping these 3 steps)

    Luke Lin - Contestar

    See Jonathan Goldsmith's comment ;)

    Didier Daniel -

    Working on the phone without removing the battery will most likely damage the component. My OnePlus One runs extremely slow after working on it without removing the battery. I think it's a problem with the GPU, because the display was very slow to update the screen contents.

    Peter Pan - Contestar

    Pan is right. Not removing the battery means you will run the risk of shorting some circuits not meant to be connected, and thus can damage those components. This can happen very easily, and without you even knowing it. Additionally, the internal components of a digital device are not meant to be disconnected while having any amount of power applied(and even though your device may not even turn on because the battery is completely shot, there very likely will still be a small amount of power coming from the battery to the internal components of the device). Doing so will likely cause an overcurrent condition that will damage the components of the device.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Contestar

    Now my problem, however, is that the screws on this bracket do not seem to want to unscrew. :(

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Contestar

    Okay, the problem would seem to have been with the screwdriver that came with my iFixit battery "Fix kit". Tried another screwdriver, and no problems at all.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Contestar

    Phillips #000 provided with the iFixit repair kit does not fit the screws

    Vitaly Kirichenko - Contestar

    I agree the #000 Phillips driver didn't work. I happened to already have a #0 Phillips that did work much better.

    Bruce Peffley -

    The screwdriver that came with the kit worked fine for me when I applied pressure with my palm to the end of the driver and turned the driver with my forefinger and thumb

    Tom Gleason - Contestar

    The ifixit #000 works…if you put an uncomfortable amount of pressure on the driver. Yikes. Use a larger bit if you’ve got it.

    Chris Wiley - Contestar

    i damaged the bottom screw with the phillips00 ifixit screwdriver :-(

    Pierre - Contestar

    It’d be nice if the iFixit people could address this problem with the PH000 driver. I am afraid of stripping the screw head because the PH000 I was sent doesn’t come close to catching in the screw head.

    orders - Contestar

    If you are having an issue with the PH#000 bit included with your iFixit Fix Kit then you can contact our customer support team at support@ifixit.com.

    Tom Gantt - Contestar

    The two screws are not exactly same size. (But very similar)

    If you switch them you’ll have issues with Bluetooth. I’m sorry but I don’t remember where is going the longer screw.

    pfx - Contestar

    With my phone I needed to use a PH0000 screwdriver. The provided PH000 (and my own from another screwdriver set) was too large. Indeed, every Phillips head screw in my phone needed the PH0000 and not the PH000 driver.

    rhowehmd - Contestar

    The video does not show this step, they go directly to the screen disassembly. Being that I was following the video, I did not disconnect the battery, and now it does not boot. :-( Thanks iFixit video .

    Robert Helgason - Contestar

    My screws seemed stripped, and when I went back to tighten it the scfrews got stuck, eventually one broke in the scoket. So I can’t screw down this protector. What does it do? Can I just get rid of it? Tap it down? Ideally Id have some eletrical tape and tape it down. But I don’t, and I just wanna toss it. AFraid it is important, or protects a circuit by conducting electricity

    Patrick Yerkes - Contestar

    I pretty consistently get the message, “unable to activate touch id on this iphone” if I connect the battery before connecting the group of cables in the upper right corner. It seems that if those are reattached while the battery is plugged in I see the touch ID error. Connecting the battery after connecting the upper-right corner group of cables has consistently helped. YMMV of course.

    David Brown - Contestar

    I don´t even have the logic board (if thats the silvery thing that the screws are keeping in place). Is the phone going to work without it?

    Hey hermano - Contestar

    I don’t understand you folks having problems with the #000 bit? I removed the screws without even thinking about it. My problem is the little antenna connector getting disconnected when I lifted the bracket plate! I mentioned it in Step 15

    jtreepro - Contestar

  15. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 15, imagen 1 de 1
    • Saca el soporte del conector metálico de la batería fuera del iPhone.

    Not clear to me why this and the next step are necessary for a screen replacement...

    Daniel Goldschmidt - Contestar

    Well, for one, Daniel, this is a BATTERY replacement tutorial. ???

    jtreepro -

    Using the iFixit tweezers to remove the bracket caused a spark. I used the plastic spudger instead.

    Bryan Remely - Contestar

    Is this tutorial or the iPhone SE? The battery should be 1624mAh but these pictures go back and forth between showing 1510and 1560mAh. Why are pictures showing different batteries, and why isn't it showig the 1624mAh for the 5 SE?

    Someone Somewhere - Contestar

    After installing the New iPhone 5s Lightning Connector Replacement I noticed there was no foam on top of the new plug, leaving bare metal exposed. I cut a small piece of electricians tape to be placed on top of the new plug to keep it from coming in contact with the metal battery connector bracket

    Scott Nacke - Contestar

    GENTLY DISCONNECT BOTH CONNECTORS, IMMEDIATELY AFTER REMOVING METAL BATTERY CONNECTOR BRACKET (and not just the one as outlined in following step…)

    c0BRA - Contestar

    WHY? That is totally unnecessary!?!

    jtreepro -

    Battery connector bracket lifts out easily with fingernail (non-conductive, no sparks). Top screw (closer to hinge) is shorter. I taped both to a labelled piece of paper with Magic Plus 811 removable transparent tape.

    keesan - Contestar

    I can’t believe nobody has mentioned that the little antenna connector (visible here just to the right of the metal battery connector’s female screw socket, covered with a tiny piece of foam) might be stuck to the metal bracket, and come loose when you remove said bracket. It’s a challenge to get the foam off of it (for visibility), and reconnect! I have no suggestions to make it easier except to be patient! You’ll get it, but my SE almost got tossed across the room trying! ;-)

    jtreepro - Contestar

  16. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 16, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 16, imagen 2 de 2
    • Utiliza la parte plana de un spudger para cuidadosamente hacer palanca a el conector de batería hacia fuera de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    • Ten mucho cuidado de solo hacer palanca contra el conector de bateria y no en el enchufe en la placa logica. Si haces palanca contra en enchufe en la placa lógica o contra la placa lógica sí mismo, puedes dañar el conector o los componentes cercanos de forma permanente.

    Skip steps17-22. Just be extra careful and secure the screen. Less to go wrong the less you open.

    William Stein - Contestar

    Also order the headband magnifier. It really helps with the tiny components you are working with.

    William Stein - Contestar

    A way to skip step 17-22

    I unfolded as next step the display in a perpendicular way (so display unit and rest of the device in 90°) and fixed the display with an elastic band at an opened iPhone packaging box. Then I continued directly at step 23 with the removal of the battery without removing the display unit at all. Worked very well without any problems… and now I’m curious whether the new battery really powers the device for a longer time :-)

    Rolf Enderes - Contestar

    I also skipped the step of removing the dispaly, instead using a rubber band to secure the display to the iPhone box. Worked great, and avoided the hassle of disconnecting the display.

    Daniel Melchior - Contestar

    I skipped this step and I also removed my display. I don’t know what will happen in the future but there’s no problems till now...

    Ran Mika (Tshukimi Elune) - Contestar

    I didn’t realize that each of the photos contained different steps until later on, (the photos look very similar to each other in the thumbnails), and so I don’t think I removed the 2nd part of the battery attachment as its in the 2nd photo. I figured it out later, but only after step 20, which requires that the battery is fully disconnected before doing. Oops!

    Everything else went well though, and I’ve since reinstalled the battery, drained it, and recharged, and it seems to be fine. Will cross my fingers and hope I didn’t damage anything.

    Nancy Zan - Contestar

    If you do remove the display, it is helpful before removing the four diffferently sized screws to tape down a piece of masking tape, sticky side up, and remove them in a defined order, sticking them to the tape as you go. Then there’s no chance of mixing them up when you re-assemble.

    john lawn - Contestar

    Agree with William Stein above. Skip Steps 17-22. Simply secure the top of your phone with a rubber band to something sturdy. A 14 oz. can of kidney beans will do. I followed all of the other directions and the repair went smoothly and I didn’t lose Touch ID functionality. It was not necessary to heat my phone to remove the adhesive strips. I simply gently stretched and continually pulled at the base of the adhesive strip. Was rather surprised at how easy it was. Hardest part is re-attaching the home button cable connector and re-inserting the Touch ID cable bracket. When it’s time to reassemble those parts, be sure to go back through Steps 9-12, reading all of the comments for helpful tips. Used a Disney-Pixar-like desk lamp for good lighting and, also, the back of a refrigerator magnet to place the screws while working.

    CMac - Contestar

    Skip or Not to Skip, that is the question.

    I opted to skip the screen removal at first. Only when I had to replace the adhesive strips did I change my mind. Looking at the adhesive removal page, I believe the freedom of movement allowed without the screen in the way is key to successfully applying the adhesive strips.

    xtian -

    Screen removal is unnecessary, and avoids many opportunities for damage and trouble! I rubber banded the display to a small jar of peanut butter, and removed and replaced the battery with no issues. The adhesive strip on the outside pulled right out, but the inside one broke. I was able to pry the battery up enough to fish out the broken strip and pull the rest out. Replaced the battery, and all is well!

    Gary Loper -

    I followed the directions of pulling the tabs and I just went super slow and continued to move my placement down lower and closer to the base of the battery and wow came out so clean nothing to even scrape off. I did an iPhone 5 but it didn't have this adhesive. The battery was barely stuck inside so I got lucky being that the battery was swollen. Apple actually gave me a new iPhone 5 when my phones battery was swollen during the Apple 5 bad battery replacement.

    Heather - Contestar

    it seems very strange this step’s instruction does not mention the 4 microscopic components on the motherboard next to the socket on the opposite side to the battery. If you put your plastic pry tool all the way into the gap between the connector and the metal shield you are going to pop them off the board and they are so small you won’t ever notice this or feel it. There are plenty of posts on the internet asking “why did my 5s stop charging after I successfully repaired the screen” and this is a really common reason. Put your pry tool in the minimum amount to just catch the metal plate on the top of the connector to avoid this.

    James - Contestar

    I too must agree with James about inserting the pry tool. If you insert it at that angle, you run the very high chance of poping off components that are located between that gap. Those components aren’t just ‘nearby’, they’re IN that gap! There’re several YouTube vids about the replacement of those components and it is not for the faint of heart. One is a coil (you ‘can’ place a jumper across) and the other is either a resister or a capacitor and those must be replaced.

    Player Onesix - Contestar

    These 3 capacitors and especially one ferrite bead are real problem. Screwed 2 phones up, one totally dead the other one managed to get battery online again.

    Pry battery connector open either with tweezers from flex cable side or from the side of long connector (speaker, lightining port connector).

    Step 16 on photos is 50/50% success.

    valdek - Contestar

    I actually find that using your fingernail works brilliantly. just place your nail under the connector where you will feel a slight lip. this lets you know that you have just the connector and nothing else. then just pull up slightly and the connector pops off. Worked a treat for me first time and this is my 3rd SE i have opened now.

    Geoff King - Contestar

    I’ve destroyed components on logic board during this step as my pry tool tocuhed the board when prying. Now the phone won’t charge. Be extra careful.

    Betonos - Contestar

    Actually the pictures seem to be the same as iPhone 5S and not the SE although there are certainly differences. Specially on the battery connector.

    iFixit should add another note that warns the users of the delicate components next to the battery connector. They can easily pop and cause battery charging problems.

    shoeib - Contestar

    You guys need to put a warning here for those micro components in front of the connector. I hit one and now my phone restarts randomly.

    Jacob Hess - Contestar

    These Demo Pics really ought to be Directly Above the device/area of focus…

    Considering the perspective of pic(s), it is entirely probable for user to uncouple, seemingly similar, Lightning connector cable directly next to Battery Connector. Just to be safe, without incurring any additional risk or time to your BATTERY Repair:

    DISCONNECT BOTH CONNECTORS, IMMEDIATELY AFTER REMOVING METAL BATTERY CONNECTOR BRACKET (in previous step, #15).

    The Red Text Warning in this step is a bit confusing, but it’s definitely not referring to the ++Lightning connector cable++ (directly next to Battery Connector). And if you mistakenly uncouple one and not the [batt connector] other, like I did, You’ll Most Certainly Corrupt the (FL2400) Ferrite Bead Filter, While Attempting to Gently Pry heated (old) Battery From It’s Seat; Rendering your device’s charging capabilities Null.

    re: Is this what a damaged FL11 looks like on a iPhone SE?

    c0BRA - Contestar

    For reassembly, I had trouble getting the battery connector re-seated, because it had pulled out with the bracket, and I didn’t see its original placement. There a two (or three?) small gold dots just above (toward the top of the phone) where the top edge fits — so make sure those dots are visible when you’re trying to place the connector. Also, it fits a bit to the right edge of the phone (away from the battery), compared with the piece above it.

    Zora O'Neill - Contestar

    iPhone SE:

    Your guide shows exactly the WRONG way to pry off the battery connector. NEVER pry along the right edge of the connector, and NEVER attack the connector from a high angle. This deadly combo is almost guaranteed to break components.

    Pry the connector at the narrow edge furthest from the home button where there is nothing to damage, and use a shallow angle of attack so the pry force is mostly upwards.

    tns - Contestar

    We have just fallen foul of this too. The photo showing the prising off of the battery connector is, as the previous comment says, completely wrong and will result in damaging the tiny components just in front of the connector which is exactly what happened to us. Wish we’d read these comments but we assumed the photos and description were correct…..%#*@ !

    Ed Griffiths - Contestar

    Alles funktioniert bis auf das Aufladen. Statusanzeige: "5% geladen". Beim Betrieb ab Ladekabel startet das iPhone nach 1 Minute neu. Hätte ich eure Kommentare vorher gelesen, hätte ich es vermutlich nicht vermurkst!

    hagilu - Contestar

  17. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 17, imagen 1 de 1
    • Quita los siguientes tornillos que aseguran el soporte de los conectores del panel frontal a la placa lógica:

    • Un tornillo Phillips #000 de 1.7 mm

    • Un tornillo Phillips #000 de 1.2 mm

    • Un tornillo Phillips #000 de 1.3 mm

    • Un tornillo Phillips #000 mas de 1.7 mm

    • Este tornillo de 1.7 mm suele no ser atraído por un destornillador magnetizado. Ten cuidado de no perderlo cuando lo quites.

    • Es especialmente importante de mantener un registro de tus tornillos en este paso para el reensamblaje. El uso accidental de un tornillo de 1.3 mm o uno de 1.77 mm en el agujero inferior derecho puede provocar daños en la placa lógica causando que el teléfono no inicie correctamente.

    • Ten cuidado de no apretar demasiado los tornillos y de no forzarlos. Si no caben fácilmente cuando los estas apretando, pueden que no sea del tamaño correcto.

    Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

    CLAUDE - Contestar

    Hi Claude,

    Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

    So, I was wondering:

    1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

    2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

    3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

    Thanks in advance.

    Regards,

    Cornel.

    corneliumusat -

    Can anyone answer if the blue strips on the crews indicate which screws they are? They are all so small it's hard to find the right lengths for each hole

    Ariel Drotter -

    Does anyone know if the blue strips on the screws indicate their length? I'm finding it very hard to distinguish the lengths

    Ariel Drotter -

    @Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

    iGuys -

    Hi Everyone,

    Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

    The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

    Hope this helps.

    Regards,

    Cornel.

    corneliumusat - Contestar

    The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

    RayBob - Contestar

    Upside-down masking tape also works well, especially when labelled with corresponding step for each bit of parts!

    W Fleming -

    i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

    William Boggs - Contestar

    The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

    If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

    Please change all the versions including this step.

    Louis Torres - Contestar

    I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

    lambdahindiii - Contestar

    I completely agree with lambdahindiii, skip steps 11 - 16 completely. You do have to be careful not to flip open the display, but it's manageable with some care.

    I will give disclaimer that I used 3.0x magnification with surgical loupes. Any kind of magnification will help. Also recommend using an LED head lamp for optimal illumination.

    wmlee1 -

    I'm going to upvote the suggestion to skip steps 11- 16 too.

    Some things to look out for:

    - Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

    - The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

    - To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

    Take your time and good luck all

    wilten -

    I agree. The steps to remove the display are unnecessary. I skipped these and had no issues.

    Matt Reier -

    On my phone it actually seems like one of the 1.7mm screws is non-magnetic (the other 3 screws are magnetic). Although this could be a botched repair job from a previous owner...

    I guess if it's intentional, it should be the top-right one, as that is closest to the compass IC.

    woods81 - Contestar

    You're right. The top right screw must be non-ferrous stainless. I've repaired tons of the5-5s and that screw is never magnetic.

    BJS -

    You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

    Drtofu -

    Apparently it is non magnetic so as not to interfere with the compass. The iPhone 6 has moved tis down to the bottom near the battery connector.

    Jack -

    I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

    shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

    what is the correct way?

    alexaamo91 - Contestar

    i had the 'blue screen of death' and here was my workaround:

    Apple logo then blue screen

    kgale4 -

    I was wondering exactly the same thing why we need to un-screw the screen? Anyway place the screws in the order they come and you should find no problems putting them back in right order.

    Also I found the screw driver comes with ifixit battery kit does not fit in the screws perfectly. Feeling a little large for these screws. Anyone else had the same experience?

    fredhdx - Contestar

    Because this guide is for more than one repair option instead of them having to type out several this fits in for replacment of screen. I didn't hav the kit but my #000 wasn’t the best for all I used a #00 just depends on if the tip isn't real pointy

    Heather -

    The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

    mnoivad - Contestar

    Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

    Pete H - Contestar

    I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

    Daylen - Contestar

    Putting the upper screws back in the bracket is a bit tricky--if you hold the screen at 90 degrees, the connector cables lift up the loose bracket, but if you lower the screen to allow the bracket to lay flat, you can't reach with a screw driver. Be very slow and patient and replace the upper left screw last (after the first three are tight)--these will hold down the bracket fairly well so you can aim the last (upper left) screw into the hole and push down as you tighten.

    bartonh - Contestar

    That is exactly how I did it; good hint. Thanks.

    Andre Silva -

    So I managed to loose the top right (non magnetic) screw. I saw it fall to the table, but it's gone. Wonder if it fell back into the phone, as there is a slight rattle sound when I shake it. Will there be any big surprises if I just reassemble without that screw?

    larserikkolden - Contestar

    How did it turn out? I lost the same screw.

    Austin Packard -

    If you keep the top steady these steps (17-22) could be skipped. That's how I did. Everything is ok.except screwdriver didn't undo upper one of the battery bracket I had to bend the bracket.

    Mehmet Hakan - Contestar

    I noticed that reassembling my device, if the metal bracket touch the hole of the 1.3mm screw the touch stopped working. I had to put a little piece of plastic between the hole and the bracket unable to put the screw in (or it would make contact between the hole and the bracket).

    Any suggestion?

    denis.g.94 - Contestar

    Hi Denis, could you be a bit more specific as to which metal bracket you are referring to please? also, where did you put the piece of plastic? Thank you.

    jamesmclachlan -

    Denis, could you be more specific please? Which metal bracket causes the problem and where did you put the piece of plastic?

    I have the same problem, (lost touch screen function).

    jamesmclachlan -

    Trying to get the screws into the holes and driving them in was extraordinarily challenging due in large part to their magnetic bond. Screws didn't want to leave the driver, once they were in they flew right back out as soon as the driver came within distance. To combat this, I suggest using a thin, clear tape (I used packing tape) cut into 4 strips and place each screw flat side down on one end of each strip of tape. Now you can easily maneuver and securely hold the screws into their holes as the driver pierces the tape easily screwing them in without losing them or your mind. Also, fridge magnets are good to retrieve screws that have fallen into iPhone's nooks and crannies, likewise from carpeting.

    James Lee - Contestar

    After aligning the bracket over the screw holes, I used the tweezers to pick the screw on its head and position it in the hole. Then, it was not difficult to use the screwdriver to fasten it.

    Andre Silva -

    If I messed up the screw placement, can it be redone and fixed by putting the screws back in prober order?

    Colm Noone - Contestar

    Like James Lee (above), I found reinserting the tiny screws quite difficult because the magnetic screwdriver would pull them out, with the screw adhering to the screwdriver at odd angles. What worked was to insert a screw with tweezers, then START the screw using the non-magnetic plastic pointy tool while holding down the plate so the screw could turn easily. Once the screw was started, I tightened it with the screwdriver.

    Sandy Trevor - Contestar

    Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!..

    yaterbob - Contestar

    The iFixit Kit I bought does NOT have the right screw driver to remove these screws. Neither phillips screwdrivers work - the point is much too sharp and does not grip the screw at all. Not happy with this purchase right now.

    Richard - Contestar

    Color coding the screw heads is an excellent idea. I used red for red - green for green - and black for orange - left the yellow one uncolored. Did a screen capture and labeled it to avoid confusion.

    Leonard - Contestar

    Also color a small area around the screws on the cable bracket. Makes it real easy to see which screw goes where.

    Leonard -

    I found out that you don’t need the 1.7mm screw. The shorter one will do and I don’t lose bluetooth.

    patjmccarthy - Contestar

    I used colored sharpies to keep track of the screws. I color coded the screw heads and around their holes. Worked like a charm.

    Brigham Okano - Contestar

    I managed to loose the socket of the green screw. Apparently, during my second disassembly of my iPhone the socket (which appears to be screwed in as well) came loose without me noticiing it and promptly vanished later on in the process, never to be seen again. The iPhone does seem to work without it, but still, I’d advise checking that they are still in place when you unmount the metal shield.

    Sven Siggelkow - Contestar

    Erroneamente ho sbagliato la combinazione delle viti e mi si è danneggiata l’iPhone.. che parte devo cambiare ?

    garino1990 - Contestar

    You do not actually have to remove the screen to replace the battery. Just tilt up the screen at a 60 degree angle from the phone and tape it open or have someone hold it up. That way you don’t have to flex the screen wires or inadvertently damage anything.

    Imre Treufeld - Contestar

    I also completed this repair successfully without removing the screen. I kept the screen at a 90 degree angle using the iPhone’s box and a rubber band as pictured in Step 13. I was nervous about bumping it while doing the rest of the steps and stretching the display cables too much, but it worked.

    garygrossman - Contestar

    If anyone is still using the dino-aged iphone 5s like me ;) , please follow the steps rather than the video patiently before putting it into action. The screw placement is extremely crucial during reassemble. I messed the screws up the first time and had problems with touch screen, it wasn’t working. Then I disassembled again. I was lucky to have sufficient eyesight to figure out the 1.7 mm screws - both magnetic and non-magnetic ones. In case of of lower left screw, I put the one I felt (!) the bigger one, and at the end, left the lower right hole unscrewed. It’s working fine now.

    Ananya Roy - Contestar

    I removed the screws and placed them on a white piece of paper in the orientation they belonged in and then removed the bracket covering the cables (step 18). At this point, looking at the 3 cables I needed to remove I thought one of these likely won’t go back on correctly and will be disabled. I had the screen securely at 90 degrees to the base using a juice glass and rubber band so I decided to put the bracket back on and skip to step 23. I wish I had thought of that before removing the screws as these are some tiny screws. It was difficult to see which end was the screw head and get it placed on the screwdriver for inserting into the hole. For the green (nonmagnetized) screw I used the tweezers to get it in the hole and then screwed it in.

    Gary Grinstead - Contestar

    Alas my screws got muddled without me realising and a long one went on the bottom right (as per the warning in the article). When you say “will result in damage”, would either of these count? 1) trapped in a cycle of booting with the white apple logo or 2) trapped in a loop of white apple logo followed by red screen

    Thanks, James

    James - Contestar

    I would think so. Even just lines could be damage to logic board. I got the screws figured out using the link I posted above as a guide to measure but my new screen won’t do anything. I bought it from eBay and I replaced battery first. I could see back light on broken screen prior to replacement and I get the chime when plugged in but absolutely nothing on the screen. I was very careful with the ribbon cables as it comes with them completely flat so I just seated the cables and slowly moved the screen to a 90 degree angle. Could I have broken something's in the ribbon cable?? Or maybe just pos screen? Read comments on seller after this noted is not oem and others had problems. s it possible to conn to iTunes and maybe fix problem if it’s a software issue? I don’t know what else to do at this point. Any help I should appreciated

    Heather -

    One doesn’t actually HAVE to remove the display. But it does make the removal of the battery easier, at it is very well glued to the back case.

    jimbbo - Contestar

    I didn’t set the screws aside so I had to measure which is super hard but here’s a link to an online free ruler and it has a command icon for you to input show me 1.7mm and then you can match up screw lengths. The website is https://www.ginifab.com/feeds/cm_to_inch...

    i hope this helps for anyone who removed the panel without reading the important steps first and i’m female lol.

    Heather

    Heather - Contestar

    As mentioned, the screws are difficult to re-install. I found that sitting the screw on its head on the table and pressing down with my finger the screw will be set on your finger, head up. Then carefully put Philips driver into screw slot. It should come away and easily inserted into bracket.

    wdbowers - Contestar

    WRONG !!!

    The ONLY 1,7mm it's at the top left corner. All OTHERS are 1.3 mm. The 1.7mm it tue other screw under this part.

    I broke my phone because of this.

    Samuel Roy - Contestar

    is it necessary to put back this plate after reattached screen , cuz i didn’t , for futures swaps

    Nikolai Nikolov - Contestar

    With my phone I needed to use a PH0000 screwdriver. The provided PH000 (and my own from another screwdriver set) was too large. Indeed, every Phillips head screw in my phone needed the PH0000 and not the PH000 driver.

    rhowehmd - Contestar

    Don’t do it. Don’t do this step. With some gentle care you can get the battery replaced without ever removing the four tiny screws from !&&*.

    Bryce Nesbitt - Contestar

    This step and all the steps through 22 are not needed for replacing lighting connector- don’t know why they’re on this guide.

    Elijah Underhill-Miller - Contestar

    I totally agree with Elijah, I had to do this repair 3 times today and after the first time I realised that steps 17 to 22 are not necessary if you can find some way of keeping the screen upright. I propped my screen up using a flat headed toothpick and it worked fine providing you are careful.

    Micky McGuinness -

    Auf die Schritte 17 - 22 habe ich ebenfalls verzichtet.

    Den Akku konnte ich mit hochgeklappten Display entfernen.

    Die Klebestreifen sind zwar gerissen, aber mit Fön und sanfter Gewalt hat es funktioniert.

    Der neue Akku hat laut iMazing sogar 1736 mAh :-)

    beemer - Contestar

    I would agree with Bryce Nesbitt. DO NOT do these steps if all you’re going to do is replace the battery. Having disconnected and reconnected all this stuff, which absolutely was not needed to get the battery out, my touchscreen is no longer working and there’s a weird grid pattern all over the screen, which suggests to me that at least one of the connectors isn’t seated properly, so I’m going to have to do this all over again.

    Let me reiterate: DO NOT DO THIS IF ALL YOU WANT IS TO REPLACE THE BATTERY. Skip straight to step 23 where you start work to remove the battery adhesive tab and strips.

    bart.read - Contestar

    I’m sure someone can correct me, but this is my experience. The 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw in the top right might be demagnetised for a reason. When I tried a magnetised screw in that position I found that I got a distinct yellowish tinge on my screen in the same place. So I removed the screw (couldn’t find the original as it disappeared off the face of the earth!), and re-assembled the phone without it.

    Don’t have any problems as far as I see having only 3 screws holding the bracket down…

    semmons - Contestar

    I had the 4 screws all neat and separated, then accidentally got a super-strong rare earth magnet too close to them, and they were all mixed up. To determine the difference between the 1.3 and 1.2, I pulled out calipers. I found both of mine to be 1.1 mm, so they weren’t different lengths. Also, all 4 of mine were attracted to the magnet.

    Robb M - Contestar

    Eek. I didn’t have access to this guide when taking my phone apart. I mostly access the internet on my phone as my laptop is super slow. I watched the YouTube video on my smart TV while doing the repair. So I didn’t know the screws were different sizes, they all looked pretty teeny tiny to me. Makes sense now that the top left one is longer, I got a bit frustrated trying to get that one in, and ended up putting it in last so the others would hold the plate in position. I do remember one didn’t stick to the screwdriver, and I actually dropped this one into the iPhone and then on the mottled carpet when I shook it out, but found it after a long search. Then I just put the screws in however they came to me. I hope they ended up okay. I already did it twice because the screen had lines on when I finished, and I also managed to inadvertently disconnect the on/off button and not reconnect properly. Need to make them click.

    PS I’m not sure you sufficiently stressed the importance of the screw order in the video.

    Jody - Contestar

    Good to know about the screw lengths. This section could have a larger font warning to carefully store the the screws in the right orientation, in separate compartments. I didn’t notice the notes on screw size until after I put all 4 screws in one compartment. I had to line up the screws (upside down) and eyeball which appeared to be which lengths using a magnifying lens. It took a few minutes but I figured it out due to their relative sizes.

    tshoran@hotmail.com - Contestar

    Suggest using a Sharpie to color-code screws before removal. Color screw heads (matching Step 17 if you like) and add a color circle around each screw head.

    MotorMac - Contestar

  18. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 18, imagen 1 de 1
    • Saca el soporte de los conectores del panel frontal fuera de la placa lógica.

    At my iPhone 5s this part is missing!

    Michael Schöttner - Contestar

    Vor dem wiedereinsetzten des Bleches ist es ratsam den Monitor und den Touchsreen zu testen. Ich habe bis hier alles wiederholen müssen wegen Balken im oberen Bereich des Monitors und hackelnder Touchfunktion.

    mit_dt - Contestar

  19. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 19, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 19, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa un spudger o una uña para desconectar la cámara frontal y el cable del sensor.

    The flat end of the spudger works great to position and press down on the connectors during reassembly.

    Magnus Dalen - Contestar

    I did not try the spudger (but I think I should have), because this cable was the most difficult to me. It kept flipping (not aligning with the socket) and with one hand holding the screen and the other trying to connect was very difficult .

    Andre Silva -

    As shown in the picture, the cable needed to be pushed back with a bit of a bend to connect it during re-assembly

    Praveen Senadheera - Contestar

    During reassembly, it’s easier to reconnect by first placing the left side (close to battery) and then clicking it into place (than, say, top side first)

    Athanasius Pernath - Contestar

    In one of four iPhone SE ‘s on which I’ve done screen replacements, there was a rubber gasket left behind when I unplugged this cable. I was unable to seat the connector properly until I removed the gasket.

    Just adding in case you encounter this.

    Peter - Contestar

    Das Abbauen des Displays ist Schwachsinn da sich der Akku leicht auch tauschen lässt wenn das Display aufgeklappt mit einem Gummi

    an einer Getränkedose befestigt ist !

    Johannes Clauss - Contestar

    Important note: There are four connectors here but only three need removing. If you remove the one on the lower left just above the screw you’ll never get it back in. It connects to the motherboard, no the screen.

    Rusty - Contestar

    During reassembly, I found reattaching the front facing camera sensor cable to be the most difficult. I would recommend bending the cables to closely match those from the screen that your replacing. I know that sounds kindof funky , but I had difficulty lining it up.

    Jeffrey - Contestar

    Thanks for the gasket tip. I thought I was just crazy! Then pulled that gasket, and presto, it seated right away!

    Kent Alan Lee - Contestar

  20. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 20, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 20, imagen 2 de 2
    • Mientras sostienes el panel frontal, desconecta el conector del cable del LCD.

    • Cuando vuelvas a armar tu teléfono, el cable LCD puede salirse del conector. Esto puede ocasionar líneas blancas o una pantalla en blanco al volver a encender su teléfono. Si eso sucede, simplemente vuelve a conectar el cable y enciende tu teléfono. La mejor forma de encender y apagar su teléfono es desconectar y volver a conectar la batería.

    When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Contestar

    After some 4 seconds stripes start to appear and at the bottom a black band of some 3 mm horizontally over the screen. I've restarted, but it keeps showing a clean screen and then after a while the stripes and band start coming through. Is that a battery issue? And when I slide up the light intensity button, the screen starts shivering.

    Jules JUSTE - Contestar

    And in my wife’s samsung replacing a battery is so easy. I’ve wasted a whole evening and now have broken cables. I get to buy a new screen and no phone for a couple of days. What $@$* is Apple pullig on us here? :(

    Jules JUSTE - Contestar

    Because Apple wants you to just buy a new phone instead of replacing parts.

    Bryan Remely -

    No doubt about that.

    Bryan Thompson - Contestar

    What can I do

    i tried to remove the LCD CABLE WITH A METAL SCISSOR.

    NOW IT IS NOT WORKING.

    HOW TO REPLACE IT. CAN ANYONE HELP IN THAT

    Faheem Sameer - Contestar

    At the bottom and top are some hardly noticeable white stripes and an after reconnecting the cables 3 times with no difference I connected the old screen again. There were no stripes there… The cables on the new screen don’t look damaged. I’ve repaired other phone screens and I think my display has an issue… what should I do now?

    fele felix - Contestar

    So what happens if you don’t disconnect the battery before dis/reconnecting the LCD connector? Can you damage something irreversibly? I have what looks like a bad display ertifacts, lines, overall bustedness…) and am not sure if because I didn’t disconnect the battery…. I was following the lady in the video instead of the guide like an idiot…. She didn’t disconnect the battery. :P

    Tom - Contestar

    Same problem here (didn't disconnect the battery) my screen is just blank. Need help urgently

    Amina -

    What’s the problem with my phone? It shows the Apple Logo but it shows a black screen after. What happened?

    Marcus Jones - Contestar

    Touch screen not working after replacing home button?

    Gershkies - Contestar

    I have verticals red lines on my newly replaced screen….why?

    Jami Russell - Contestar

    Battery successfully replaced but screen had vertical lines. Re-seated LCD connector which fixed the lines problem. Got VERY FRUSTRATED trying to “slide” the Touch ID bracket over the cable connector, which I never managed to do. At some point, the screen stopped “working” and is now solid black. Re-seating the LCD connector didn’t help. How can I tell if I accidentally broke something along the way? Can I use a multimeter to find out?

    Carol Ramelb - Contestar

    I did not watch the Video replacing the 5s battery , but i did follow the directions given. I missed one important detail prior to removing the battery. I did not see the loop at the end of the battery so I ran the pointed end of the spudger along the battery. It took a long time to remove the battery using heat and bending the battery until I could get the adhesive strips off. The directions were a real asset and next time I will watch the video. Thanks! Your staff are the bests.

    MichaelW Parkman - Contestar

    Beware, it is easy to ruin the sockets on the SE motherboard, far easier than the 5s. Be extra careful pulling these cables.

    chumblyf - Contestar

  21. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 21, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 21, imagen 2 de 2
    • Finalmente, desconecta el conector de cable del digitalizador.

    When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

    Pete H - Contestar

    I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

    ilsedorec - Contestar

    pure genius, this works

    Oliver Markl -

    Reassembly—It’s all about the SNAP!

    I had the last-which-becomes-first connector down. Went to the second, and heard a very satisfying SNAP! Then, I became paranoid. Did the first connector snap? I don’t know?!? How did I put it down? What was that motion? What’s the level of the socket with its surroundings? Frack! I undid both, and the last connector gave a satisfying SNAP, when I disconnected it. HAHA. So now, I was paying close attention. I felt the level of the sockets, studied the Mondrian-like composition, and listened for the SNAP.

    xtian -

    xtian you king!

    IT REALLY IS ALL ABOUT THE SNAP

    After disconnecting and reconnecting the entire phone several times, my digitizer/touch screen still wasn’t working properly. In the end, it was all because I didn’t get the SNAP, which is the most important thing, especially with THIS connector. If you don’t hear the SNAP with this, it almost certainly won’t have worked. First time I did… hey presto!

    stick972 -

    Had to try 4 times until I finally got it right, I would say that less than 80° works well for this step, just take your time and be patient with the screws

    hermosillaignacio - Contestar

    It should be noted somewhere around these steps that all but one of these connections get removed.

    The connection that is left goes to the Power Button, the Mute Switch, and the Volume Buttons. This connection is on the bottom left, below the LCD power connection.

    This connector was not supposed to be removed, and I removed all of them as a force of habit.

    Once removed, it seems I removed part of the other half of the connector along with the first half.

    This has left my customer's iPhone functional, but none of the buttons, besides Home Button/TouchID), work.

    In the long run, this is not a huge issue, as AssistiveTouch can emulate physical button presses. I just figured it should be noted.

    Mikereilly2009 - Contestar

    Using the tool from the opposite side from what is shown here was many times easier (considering I had the front panel attach to a box with the rubber band trick)

    David - Contestar

    Agree, did the same thing.

    Andre Silva -

    After completing the battery replacement, when I turned the phone back on everything worked right except, the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen. Does anyone know how I can fix this???

    Melissa - Contestar

    After I replaced my battery, I turned the phone back on and everything worked except the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen now. Does anyone know what I did wrong??? I do I fix this???

    Melissa - Contestar

    I believe that you “bumped” the ribbon cable to the camera. I would open the phone back up and make sure it is making a good connection . In the picture above, the camera is the black square in the top right corner. Its connection is right below the spudger in this picture.

    Annette -

    For a better picture - The camera is connected by this ribbon:

    Reemplazo del cable del componente superior del iPhone 5s

    STEP# 28

    Annette -

    after battery replacing the Volume and Sleep buttons don’t work anymore. What I did wrong and what I can do to resolve the problem?

    Thanks

    Nicola - Contestar

    Step one is recheck your connections. If those are all solid, did you need to pry the battery up to remove it? It’s possible that the prying damaged the cables. If you have photos, share them on our Answers Forum, and you might get some better, more specific help!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I believe that you “bumped” the connection that is right below the spudger in this picture (it is a smaller connection than the one with the spudger on it and right next to the battery). Try opening the phone back up and making sure that button pad has a good connection. It is also the connection in this picture:  iPhone 5s Upper Component Cable Replacement. STEP # 25.

    Annette -

    I accidentally unplugged the power cable and although the digitizer cable is difficult to get plugged in, the power plug is a you know what!

    mcr4u2 - Contestar

    Reattaching the digitalizer connector is a ##&&% if you ty to keep the innards 90 degrees to the case using a rubber band and a box/can. Hold the innards in your hand to line up this connector. Once that is done the other two connections can be done with stabilized innards banded to a box/can.

    Dorothy Campbell - Contestar

    After replacing the battery on my iPhone SE (2016), the flash on the camera, the flashlight and the vibrate mode did not work. When I took it apart, this button assembly cable was not tight down. Reemplazo del cable del componente superior del iPhone 5s. STEP #25. It is also the connection right below the spudger in the picture. The smaller on close to the battery.

    Pushing it tight down and reassembly fixed all problems.

    Annette - Contestar

    After replacing the battery the touch screen doesn't work?? How do I fix this?

    SHVXIA - Contestar

  22. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 22, imagen 1 de 1
    • Quita el ensamblaje del panel frontal fuera de la caja trasera.

    I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

    I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

    For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

    As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.

    IMG LINK:

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1608...

    Oscar Vera - Contestar

    Odd..my Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

    Bob smith -

    Dear Oscar,

    I am very interested in your comment but the photo is not available any more. Could you send the updated link?

    Thank you very much,

    Alex

    Alex -

    The link to your photo is still not available. I do not understand which screw is being referred to associated with the fingerprint sensor.

    Toby Parnell -

    To anybody wondering what the picture was, Internet Archive saved it. You can find it here: https://web.archive.org/web/201606120038...

    It’s also the same picture as the 2nd picture in Step 23.

    Bryan Remely -

    Bryan Remely thank you so much. It’s comment threads like this and contributors like you that make the internet such a valuable tool.

    WILL D -

    why cant u disconnect the lcd and just put the new one in reverse from step 16? wgy to step 32

    Cameron Shelley - Contestar

    When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Contestar

    thanks for that... I didn't even notice it until I saw your comment.

    Brian Hayes -

    I’m completely confused about removing the connectors to the screen. It looks to me as though the battery could come out with the screen still attached. How am I wrong?

    Lance - Contestar

  23. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Batería: paso 23, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Batería: paso 23, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Batería: paso 23, imagen 3 de 3
    • Corre la punta de un spudger entre la bateria y la entrada de auriculares para desplegar la etiqueta de adhesivo de bateria.

    When you put the new battery back in, it's important to fold that tab back down along the bottom edge of the battery--do not let the tab rest on top of the battery. If you do, that minute extra thickness is enough to press ever-so-slightly on the LCD and cause the LCD to exhibit color distortion when you press the home button.

    bartonh - Contestar

    You can't really see it in these pictures, but there is a small hole at one end of the "pull tab". This is just the right size hole for the pointy end of the apple tool spudger, and thus is very handy for pulling the tab out.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Contestar

    I used a toothpick to unfold the tab.

    Cassandra - Contestar

    I do not see any battery adhesive tab … Certainly nothing with any round hole in it … Now I am bummed…

    Please see my previous comments at Step # 9.

    No home button connector cable, no sign of any battery adhesive tab.

    It seems I am now stuck with a useless phone …. This did not help at all … I bought a kit that is no use, a new / replacement battery that I can’t even use … :-/

    Bummed ex- customer. Would not recommend ifixit for this idea.

    Alun Williams - Contestar

    If there’s no home button cable and no battery tabs, you don’t have a 5s. More likely you’re working on an iPhone 5.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I couldn’t find a tab either . I heated the bottom and pried the battery up and found the tap tucked underneath the battery. It would have helped for me to look at the new adhesive strips first as well so I could know what I was looking for.

    tina johnson -

    I applied heat as instructed. One strip pulled free; One strip broke :-( Fortunately, getting one strip out is sufficient. You can then gently get the battery out even with one strip in place.

    Don Libes - Contestar

    Instead of using the iOpener, I opted for my “patented” “Rice in a sock” and heated the sock for 1 minute, which worked perfectly. I laid the heated sock flat and used it as a mini work bench while removing the adhesive strip! My wife uses this for when she has head aches, which caused “me to not have a headache”, when peeling back the adhesive strips!

    iScott - Contestar

    Great idea!!!!!!!

    gibitzga -

    Thank you!

    “Rice in a Ziplock bag” worked perfectly. I was skeptical at first that the heat wouldn’t concentrate enough on the adhesive to soften it. I just rested the battery side on the bag of rice (1/2 cup basmati left over from a 20# bag of Y2K supplies :) and slowly lifted up on the left side of the battery CAREFULLY leveraging with the sponger over the left edge of the case (all the other sides of the battery have electronics that don’t need to be crushed. It took about 4 mins to pry my battery free.

    Daniel

    dleyes -

    I also had a folded over adhesive tab so I couldn’t pull it up as per the instructions. Heat, a guitar string and the flat end of the spudger working from the top helped, but it’s easy to bend and damage the battery. Take great care!

    Alastair Knights - Contestar

    Its deceptive in this photo but it is paper thin and parallel to the bottom end of the battery. I didn’t see it until I removed the battery the hard way

    Rusty - Contestar

    I tried to remove a Ray-O-Vac battery, and it had no tabs for the adhesive strips. Fortunately, I had heated it enough for the adhesive to release. I just hope I didn’t damage the battery cover trying to find the (nonexistent) tabs for the adhesive strips.

    Richard Hamner - Contestar

  24. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 24, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 24, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 24, imagen 3 de 3
    • Jala la etiqueta de adhesivo de la batería hacia fuera del teléfono.

    • Corta la etiqueta negra de adhesivo de la batería entre las dos tiras blancas de adhesivo, separándolas.

    Got a face towel, wrapped in cling-film and microwaved until hot. Stood phone on it and adhesive comes out! Fantastic. Did rip the end of old battery off in process.

    Phil Rydin - Contestar

    When stretched, the adhesive strips I removed where quite long, probably 7-8 inches (stretched). Saying “many times its original length” leaves it too vague. You have to pull with constant, not abrupt, tension. Also, Pay attention to advice not to get the strips twisted, but to keep them flat…and not to pull at an angle where they can rub against and get caught on other board components.

    john lawn - Contestar

    The two white tapes immediately tore despite being very careful and following instructions to a T. Had to begin prying and bending battery free from top outside corner. Don’t pry from the inside (electronic components side). You’ll be likely to damage computer components. Use the metal outside frame of case to pry the battery. Once I was able to bend back the upper inch of the battery I was able to get hold of the white tapes and pull free. Removal of those adhesive strips was the biggest challenge of battery replacement. Amazing that we have phones in our pockets that have technology that surpasses all the computers that took us to the moon, and yet, developers aren’t able to come up with a more sophisticated an effective means to secure the batteries. Oh humanity, gotta love it.

    On a positive note: Kudos to iFixit for XLNT products, tools, tutorials and customer service!

    mammothko - Contestar

    I wouldn’t do the cut too early. Try to ease both white tapes out without breaking them an inch or so if possible. Its not easy getting the angle of pull right as you end up with very close quarters with some semisharp parts.

    Dorothy Campbell - Contestar

    Tipp: Vor dem “ziehen” am Klebestreifen 1-2 Tropfen ISO-Propanol zwischen Ansatz des Klebestreifens und des Akkus ca. ne Minute einwirken lassen. Das weicht den Streifen wieder etwas auf und minimiert die Problematik eines abreißenden Klebestreifens.

    sgeschwind - Contestar

    No adhesive tab in my iPhone SE 32…(A1662). I’ll try Phil’s hot towel method and report result.

    Carl Noe - Contestar

    What worked for me is WD 40. I added drop by drop at the edge of the battery where adhesive pull ripped off, waited a minute and then use the spadger to wiggle the battery under it. Took me half an hour because I was super careful to not bend the battery much. It eventually came of cleanly.

    aleck - Contestar

  25. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 25, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 25, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 25, imagen 3 de 3
    • Intenta de mantener las tiras planas y desarrugadas durante este procedimiento; las tiras arrugadas se pegarán juntas y se romperán en vez de salir limpiamente.

    • Lentamente jala una de las tiras de adhesivo de batería hacia el inferior del iPhone.

    • Jala constantemente, manteniendo una tension constante en la tira mientras se desliza entre la batería y la caja trasera. Para mejores resultados, jala la tira a un ángulo de 60º o menos.

    • Guía la tira cuidadosamente alrededor de la esquina y hacia el lado superior de la batería. Ten cuidado de no enganchar la tira en otros componentes de iPhone internos.

    • La tira se estirara varias veces su tamaño original. Continua tirando, agarrando la tira cerca de la batería si es necesario, hasta que la tira entera sea liberada.

    Watch how it is done in the video! I broke mine by continually "pulling straight up" and didn't realize you are suppose to follow the edge of the battery.

    nickbits - Contestar

    +1. This guide should clarify the "pull around the corner" part. Preferably with pictures.

    Seppe Stas -

    Another vote for this! Watch the video to see how you pull the adhesive around the corners and sides of the battery!

    Greg Matthew Crossley -

    I had watched the video and I tried to work the strip around the sides, but couldn't get it to go without worrying it would tear on something. I just pulled up at an angle, slowly and steadily, and they both came out fine, like the instructions say.

    Rosemary McNaughton -

    The tape tabs broke almost immediately upon pulling up just a little bit (less than in the video). My phone is over 2 years old, and maybe the plastic weakens over time. I used a hair dryer on the back of the phone to soften the adhesive and the green prying tool in the iFixit repair kit to pry up the edge of the battery along the side wall of the back case. It bent the battery, but it worked to (slowly) pry the battery out without damaging the phone.

    Bruce - Contestar

    Same here - my phone is over 2 years old and both adhesive strips broke when I tried to pull them out. This step looks so easy in the video, but it became the most difficult part of this repair. I ended up slowly working strips of plastic under the battery to release it. Someone mentions using a credit card, but I have no idea where you would insert that (without bending/destroying your card).

    Anyway, I worked strips of plastic under the battery and used the pry tool and spudger to lift the battery as I did this. The battery bends/deforms while you do this. I was worried that the battery would internally short and heat up, but it didn’t…..   just don’t go crazy bending it, and be careful where you pry (so you don’t damage the electronics/switches).

    Someone also mentioned using a warm face towel - looking back I wonder if this would have helped, since you could rest the phone on the warm towel while you do this (and keep that adhesive warm the entire time). I

    spyder13b -

    I didn't have any sticky tape to hold the new battery in place, so I only removed the outside adhesive tab and left the inner one. This way I would 'lever' the battery out and the innermost tape-strip stayed in place, which was helpful to see the new battery in place. carefull though, you have to lever the battery out very slowly, very very slowly ... but it does work.

    Niels - Contestar

    yeah this wrong. the video has it right. just toasted both of my strips, thanks!

    mdelvecchio99 - Contestar

    there is no way these strips can be stretched (3y o phone) snapped immediately, plus 1st tore on non existent cover imediately

    Gabe - Contestar

    I put on the radiator then used dental floss to start and then two iFixit cards together to pry from home button and outside edges. Didn't notice but I bent the little home button connector guard (not the cover - I didn't have one) but it seemed to make no difference, just bent it back.

    Gabe - Contestar

    I also broke the sticky strips almost immediately so had to prise battery out. it bent a little but came out leaving the strips behind. this has the advantage of having the strips remaining to fix the new battery.

    adrt - Contestar

    Same problem with strips breaking on a 2 yo phone. Might be a good idea to apply the heat BEFORE trying to pull on the ends.

    donshaw1795 - Contestar

    Mine also broke immediately. Someone else suggested that they be heated before attempting to pull out. That seems like good advice; I think the adhesive hardens with age.

    yscuba - Contestar

    They broke dec 2017

    Lars Åkeson - Contestar

    I have done an iPhone 5s and iPhone 6 battery. I can tell you that the adhesive strips sometimes break but when they are going to come out it is best done just by pulling straight out from the bottom. It is better to keep the adhesive strip straight so it does not crimp and the adhesive pulls off equally along the strip. I would not try the pulling from the sides as shown in the video. 3 out of 4 of the strips came out very nicely that way. Also keep re-grabbing the adhesive as close to the battery as you can get it. And go slow. The whole repair is a ton easier if you can pull the strips out without them tearing.

    SC - Contestar

    I saw it mentioned somewhere, but be very careful of wedging the credit card at the top side of the battery. There is a flat cable for the volume buttons that I almost scraped off and almost damaged. I would have liked to see a picture of what it looked like without the battery to see that.

    SC - Contestar

    Completely wrong.

    william - Contestar

    Perfect - 1st timer here. I got a small face towel, moistened it, wrapped it in cling film, microwaved it until very hot, and rested the phone on it. After about 3 minuted both strips came out very nicely.

    Phil Rydin - Contestar

    My tabs broke too. Like others said, these steps are misleading. You do not pull back as shown. I had to bend the old battery out which sucks.

    Michael - Contestar

    I had to bend the old battery out which sucks.

    MEH! It was OK. I pried it out. It got bent up. I’m not using it again. No biggie.

    xtian -

    I pulled straight out for both and both broke off right away. I applied heat by way of an athletic hot/cold pack heated in the microwave, and then pried and chiseled the battery out from the case side with an old credit card. I watched the video after I was done - of course. Heating beforehand and pulling the strips around the sides is most likely the best way to go.

    Tad Dadisman - Contestar

    Changing 2 batteries back to back, the tabs broke on me the first time. the second time I:

    - did not separate the tabs in the previous step

    - laid them on the spudger with the spudger across the body of the phone

    -rotated the spudger like a spool, keeping the adhesive feeding more or less straight up.

    it worked pretty well. one side came completely off and battery removal was easy.

    Erik - Contestar

    Second this advice! Just used this method and it worked flawlessly. Note: do this in the middle of the spudger, not the tapered end, otherwise the reel will slowly migrate off the tool and then the winding will not longer work. Apply low heat from a hair dryer to the aluminum back first as well. Had been putting off a battery replacement because I hated this step so much, but no longer!

    jostehlin -

    I used this method too, and it worked very well... I did one at a time wound round a pencil laid across the phone and rotated the pencil very slowly... I used a covered hot water bottle for heat and laid the phone on it the whole time while removing the battery... Found this method very easy and had no problems at all and my phone is eight years old, with its original battery...!

    Chris Shurety -

    this was the hardest part for me. like others, strips broke immediately. i recommend buying a second set of adhesive strips with your kit as i had issues with those as well.

    Chris Miller - Contestar

    For that it strips need? When I put a new battery inside, do I need the same strips?

    girloffeather - Contestar

    My strips broke (of course). I ended up heating a wet washcloth in the microwave and putting it in a sealed sandwich bag. I put the bag on the table and the phone on the bag. I had to pry the bottom end of the old battery to get to the broken strips. It bent some but that allowed me to stick the tweezers underneath to grab hold of a strip to pull. It came out some and broke again so I pried a little more on the battery to get to the strips with the tweezers. Eventually I got all of the strips and was able to remove the battery.

    Gary Grinstead - Contestar

    I had the same problem where I ended up stretching it too much. What I did to counter this was just pry the battery open and rip some of the adhesive off then proceeded to pull the thing right off when there wasn’t too much left of the adhesive.

    Vlanpai - Contestar

    First, I used a wheat bag for my heat source to soften the adhesive (cloth bag filled with wheat grains, which you heat in a microwave, usually to apply to an arthritic joint for pain relief). Retains the heat for a good time and provides a base on which to work (a bit like using a hot water bottle, but without the water and a lot more stable !)

    Second, my adhesive strips broke before I got anywhere close to the battery corner ! So I used dental floss. Starting at one corner of the battery, using a sawing motion to reach the other (nearest) corner, then came down the length of the battery. The floss broke about a dozen times, but after about 15-20 minutes it had cut the battery clean away from the adhesive.

    Wayne - Contestar

    I’ve done work on my laptop and one of my favorite tools is a wooden tongue depressor. They’re strong. You can shape them. They’re obviously non-conductive. And, I don’t jack up my Credit Card in the process. HAHA.

    My phone is 2-3 years old. I used a hot water bottle (water heated to 140F) and let the phone heat up for approx ~60s. The strips didn’t even get around the corner before they broke. Maybe I should have heated the water to 200F? Maybe I should have heated the phone for 2 minutes?

    Scrapping up the goo later, it was really stuck down. I continued to use the hot water bottle, and at no point did it seem to become ‘less sticky’. Eventually I was able to scrape up enough to get a grip. The rest pulled up just like the pictures. Maybe the goo was just not pliable after years of heating and cooling?

    xtian - Contestar

    I watched the video and tried pulling from the side, no dice. Both strips broke and were irretrievable. After trying dental floss and heat, I pulled the small e string off my electric guitar and wound each end around a pencil. This was so the string didn’t dig into my hand while I used it to slowly “saw” the adhesive off from underneath. Alternately heating and sawing from one end and then the other (make sure the string doesn’t snag on anything while doing this, and also make sure the string doesn’t twist into a loop), I was able to cut through the adhesive and remove the old battery. It was quite a chore, but this was the only thing that worked for me. The adhesive strips were laughing at my puny attempts with plastic cards.

    Patrick Pedersen - Contestar

    I also ripped off the tag ends, but managed to grab the remaining ~1mm ends of the adhesive strip with a pair of tweezers and twisted to re-establish a secure fixing point and drag both strips out

    fpe - Contestar

    I succeded in removing one strip but the other broke of, i went on with a credit card as suggested to unstick the other half of the batttery and it kindof worked, but then i used a plastig knife to lossen the remaining adhesive strip underneath the battery and accidentally cut throught the metal shielding of the battery, then i smelled a strange sweet smell coming out of the battery. Immediately put the battery in the backyard, maybe its gonna explode….

    Erik - Contestar

    the fishing line trick worked extremely well. Very effective. Take your time, pulling it back and forth first from one side of the line then the other. It cut through the adhesive really in no time.

    fhussar - Contestar

    hello i am replacing my iphone 5s battery but i am stucked because the adhesive broke whiles pulling it out

    before i started i made sure my battery was 0% but i am afraid that when i mistakenly puncture it with the spudger it might catch fire

    please is the battery capable of catching fire when it has no power (0%)?

    please can someone give me the honest answers before i continue

    thank you

    George Rockson - Contestar

    Yes it can catch fire even at 0 %. I had 2 batteries burn totaling the iPhone.

    chumblyf -

    It felt like the strips pulled out completely, in fact, there was a full layer underneath. When we levered the battery out later, we used a hairdryer from underneath, and during the “heating” (gentle! only lowest setting!) you could lever the battery with a metal piece (I was very careful not to hurt the battery. So we got the battery out with some force appied and slowest movement away from the very sticky wihte stripes… I think, even if you do all according to the manual, be prepared for a hairdryer use from underneath.

    Bernd Saegmueller - Contestar

    Watching the video is helpful for this step. I also put the phone on a heating pad for a couple of minutes to soften the adhesive.

    Ed Austin - Contestar

    The idea of pulling the adhesive around the battery to each side seemed like a good one, but I think it doesn’t really work if your phone is older than a year. I had a 3-4 year old phone. The adhesive broke near the end on one side and right near the black tab on the other side. I tried the plastic pry tool, but it was threatening to snap, so in the end I got a butter knife and pried the battery out with that. Didn’t think to try and soften the adhesive, but with all the warnings about battery exploding I wouldn’t have tried it anyway I don’t think. The butter knife worked well anyway. The battery ended up a bit deformed, but I never plan to use that battery again anyway. It was defunct, that’s why I was replacing it.

    Jody - Contestar

    Here’s a method without all that yanking and pulling. You just need a thin screwdriver to wind the adhesive strip onto.

    1. First, expose the adhesive strip tabs as shown in Step 24. Cut where they are joined. You will then deal with each strip separately.

    2. Expose the the white sticky stuff of the adhesive strip. Don’t pull on anything in case it breaks. You just want to expose the white stuff.

    3. I used a thin “jewellers” screw driver. It’s only 1.5mm wide. Get the white adhesive strip onto the tip. The screwdriver shaft will rest on the metal edge of the phone. Protect the edge with some sticky tape. Might need 2 or 3 layers.

    4. Simply rotate the screwdriver as if unscrewing. You will wind the strip onto the screwdriver.

    5. Continue winding (unscrewing). Do not attempt to pull at the strips - they’ll break. Keep the tip of the screwdriver as close as you can to the battery. Don’t let the strip snag on anything else.

    Here’s a pic to explain what’s going on:

    https://ibb.co/QHgWfDR

    Big Ed - Contestar

    I used the spudger to roll the strips, but a pencil will do also. For these you don’t need to protect the metal case edges. And: put the stick like a brigde across both edges, then you dont have to worry to damage something inside.

    Trogisch -

    Used this technique in conjunction with base of phone lying on a (microwaveable) hot water bottle and both strips came out. Phone is over 4 years old. Thanks for the top tips.

    dylanhuw -

    If your phone is any older than a year or two, definitely try gently heating the adhesive through the back of the phone case before you try pulling the adhesive. Otherwise, it is almost sure to break!

    Arnold Wright - Contestar

    I started to pull on the strips and immediately noticed they had holes in them, and they quickly broke. I had to do what a few others here said - I used the opening tool as a lever to pry the battery out. Yes, the battery ended up getting bent out of shape, but I got it out. I only worried about puncturing the battery, thankfully that didn’t happen.

    Why is it even necessary to put these adhesive strips down? I’ve never seen any other product with a battery require that you tape/glue the battery in place.

    delerious - Contestar

    Just want to add, easiest thing for me was to heat up one of those gel bead massage therapy pads, stick the phone on top and use a card to pry while its still on the pad…. the constant heat melted it off quite easily!

    Chris - Contestar

    My strips broke after a few centimeters. So I warmed up the back with the heat pad, then threaded a strong sewing thread behind the batteryattached each ends of the thread to improvised handles (lego bits) and tried to pull the thread under the battery. Did not work. Then got my wife to hold the phone case while I was making a sawing motion with the thread, pulling on handle at the time. That worked super smoothly and the battery was off in a few seconds!

    Thibaut - Contestar

    In common with everyone else, the tabs broke off immediately (brittle with age). I rested the phone on a hot water bottle (no microwave here) for a few minutes. Managed to get some fishing line under the battery at the charger / home button end and then gradually (had to keep reheating it) managed the pull the line backwards and forwards, slowly working my way down the battery. And out it popped. Remaining glue came off with a bit of scraping with my finger nail. Probably took about 15 mins to sort this stage out.

    joolz - Contestar

    The adhesive strips broke right away. I read through these comments & tried dental floss & heavy thread, several times for about an hour, breaking it every time. I heated up a cloth bag of rice, that I use for my knee, in the microwave for three minutes, wrapped it with a kitchen towel & then plastic wrap. I put the phone down on it & began trying the dental floss again. It still kept snapping but I could tell the adhesive strips were moving. I dug into my sewing box again & found a piece of satin ribbon. I wish I had thought of that first, but it worked like a charm! Hope this helps someone else.

    renatavinnie - Contestar

    None of those methods worked for me and I didn't want the apply any liquid in the phone like alcohol. I was so annoyed as the video is very deceptive. I bet you over 95% of those sticky adhesives will break. In the end, and after 1 hour after carefully trying razor blades, wire, monofilament, heat, and a sharpened spatula. I wrapped the battery in electrical tape at the top and used my pliers and just ripped it out in about 10 seconds. I had pried the battery up about 1 inch to grip it with the pliers. I inserted the new battery, snapped in the connectors and all works fine. I have been repairing apple devices for years and I know what to avoid and when to go slow, so there was nothing that would have been damaged when I went at it with the pliers. I of course did not want to puncture the battery and I didn't. But be careful as it is very 'alive". I just touched one tiny exposed corner of it with the shaft of a screwdriver and sparks flew. The battery was totally flat (no energy) when I did this repair.

    Paolo Alberto - Contestar

    Was bei mir mit einem inzwischen richtig alten iPhone SE tadellos funktioniert hat: Mit einer Pinzette aufwickeln. Man greift einen der durchtrennten Strips im rechten Winkel mit einer Pinzette und dreht diese schön langsam, so dass man immer nur einen Fingerbreit des Streifens rausschauen hat. Dann reißt es erstens nicht im unnötig gedehnten rausschauenden Teil, zweitens ist es fast automatisch schön langsam, denn das ist das eigentliche Geheimnis: Adhäsive Klebebänder kann man nur langsam lösen, wie bei diesen fädenziehenden Etiketten, ganz langsam, das braucht Zeit statt Kraft. Und auch nicht um die Ecke, am Rand entlang, sonst wird automatisch eine Seite stärker gespannt, und dort reißt es dann. Schön gerade und langsam, das braucht halt zwei Minuten, aber besser als mit Erhitzen, Lösemittel usw.

    Philippos - Contestar

    Replacing the ifixit battery i installed a couple years ago and it is VASTLY more difficult than removal of adhesive on the original battery. Wish they had improved that aspect specifically.

    Feather Osborn - Contestar

  26. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 26, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 26, imagen 2 de 2
    • Repite el procedimiento para la segunda tira.

    • Si quitaste las dos tiras exitosamente, salta los dos próximos pasos.

    • Si cualquiera de las dos tiras de adhesivo se rompen debajo de la batería y no pueden ser retiradas, aplica unas gotas de alcohol isopropilico de alta concentración (Major al 90%) debajo el area de las tiras de adhesivo roto.

    • Espera por alrededor de un minuto para que el alcohol disuelva el adhesivo. Usa el lado plano de un spudger para levantar gentilmente la batería.

    • No trates de levantar forzosamente la batería. Si es necesario, aplica unas gotas mas de alcohol para disolver mas el adhesivo. Nunca deformes o perfores la batería con tu herramienta

    • No hagas palanca contra la placa lógica o puede que dañes el teléfono

    • Evita palanquear en la esquina superior izquierda cerca del controlador de volumen, o puede que dañes el cable de los botones de volumen

    • También puedes tratar métodos alternativos en el siguiente paso

    You better heat this all up before you try to remove the glue strips. Mine broke off right away and then (after heating) you have to pry up the whole battery (mine was discharged completely so less risk) which tends to be glued so tightly that it all bents (not very safe for a Lithium Ion battery!).

    Pieter Kerstens - Contestar

    I totally agree. First strip did not come off. Heated the phone up, second one worked as if I did it every day..

    + You should hear a rattling sound (the strip moving towards the bottom of the battery) while pulling. If you do not hear a sound while pulling it will probably break !

    meertdavid - Contestar

    definitely agree with the sounds I did the same procedure but heated both luck was not on my side for the first strip I luckily was able to grab the quickly shrinking adhesive as it ducked under the battery but foolishly pulled harder without adding more heat and broke it off again but successfully pried that sucker out with the help of a blow dryer if i ever do this again that’s my heating tool of choice

    Christopher Healy -

    Bei mir hat es nicht geklappt. :-( Ich habe es geschafft, die Haltestreifen beide zu durchtrennen und dadurch keine Möglichkeit mehr, die Gummis zu lösen. Ich höre hier auf und gehe zumFachhandel. Daher unbedingt auf denRat der drei Vorredner hören und das iPhone erhitzen. Ich war zu hitzig. ;-)

    Thomas Mejer - Contestar

    For us the right hand adhesive strip came out perfectly but the left one snapped after only about a fifth had come out. Luckily I had a couple of small suction cups that I could use to lift the right side of the battery up and put some isopropyl alcohol in. By gently wiggling the right side of the battery up and down, leaving it a bit, putting a bit more alcohol on we reached a point where it was possible to get fingers under the right side of the battery and then gently raise it until the remaining adhesive strip let go.

    This was a lot less painful I think than the experience others have had. Hope that’s helpful.

    Ed Griffiths - Contestar

    What the heck is the idea behind gluing the battery in so tightly?! I mean where is it going to go?

    gfriedman99 - Contestar

    Both of my strips snapped. I put in 91% isopropyl alcohol and waited a while and it doesn't seem to have helped. I may be able to find a hair dryer here but it sounds unlikely to be hot enough. I have a proper heat pencil which is the right thing to use for this, but it is not here, and I can't easily retrieve it in reasonable time to return the phone to the owner. I will try the dental floss method.

    paul - Contestar

  27. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Metodos alternativos para despegar la bateria de la carcasa: paso 27, imagen 1 de 1
    • Si la batería se mantiene el adherida en la carcasa posterior prepara un iOpener o usa una secadora de cabello para calentar la carcasa posterior directamente atrás de la batería.

    • Sobre calentar el iPhone puede incendiar la batería.

    • No trates de sacar la batería forzosamente. Nunca deformes o perfores la batería con tu herramienta

    • No hagas palanca contra la placa lógica o puedes dañar el teléfono.

    • Evita hacer palanca cerca de la esquina superior izquierda de la bateria y cerca del flex de los botones volumen o puedes dañar el cable plano del botón de volumen.

    • Una pieza de hilo dental puede ser usada para separar la batería de la carcasa posterior. Una alternativa más sólida que el hilo dental es una cuerda de guitarra, como una cuerda 0.009 E de una colección de 12-cuerdas.

    • Enhebra el hilo o cuerda detrás de las esquinas superiores de la batería, junta los fines, envuélvelos alrededor de un trapo doblado, y jala uniformemente.

    I'm a little astounded no one has mentioned the importance of not using sharp tools at this juncture. With the adhesive failing to come off nicely, many will be tempted to get out the metal tweezers. DON'T. If the battery gets punctured, it WILL catch fire and destroy your entire phone. Use dental floss or credit card as suggested.

    Angela - Contestar

    Angela is right. The battery will catch fire if you physically damage it. That's exactly what I did and I left a trail of smoke in my building's hallways as I ran outside with it. Amazingly once everything had cooled off, I was able to complete the job, because the battery catching fire took care of the %#*@ adhesive.

    Brian Hill - Contestar

    Haha! Good work around!! :)

    Jack -

    If you are pulling an iPhone apart, Use an ice cube container for the screws. Draw yourself a plan if you must but I have done so many, I know what bits go in which hole.

    Jack -

    Pro tip: Use 2 cards together - slip one over the other. Start the process with dental floss…

    Gabe - Contestar

    The adhesive strips broke almost immediately. Tried the dental floss trick a few times, credit cards, guitar pick, more floss, hair dryer, etc ... Bent & smashed the old battery to the point I was really worried it might explode. The only thing that really seemed to help was heating up the back of the phone first w/a hair dryer, then jamming plastic cards in from the corners, top & bottom (being careful not to bend or smash other things) until I was able to pry it loose.

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    Same here. That was intense.

    gibitzga -

    Using the microwaved towel wrapped in film and microwaved, then placing the phone on it to heat up nicely, the strips came completely out and the battery popped off rendering this step unnecessary!

    Phil Rydin - Contestar

    Phil — what do you mean by “wrapped in film”.. do you mean plastic-wrap? I’d love if you could elaborate :)

    Red-Rob -

    Hey Phil.. I’d love if you can elaborate on that. By “wrapped in film” do you mean plastic-wrap?

    Red-Rob -

    I did something similar. Start by looping dental floss under the bottom of the battery. Then put a wet (but not dripping) washcloth in a ceramic microwave safe bowl and heated it for about three minutes. Covered the cloth with plastic food wrap and set the phone on it. Once phone’s hot, I worked the floss towards the top of the phone. Repeated many times until it stalled halfway up the battery. Then I did the same process starting at the top of the battery. After a lot of time the floss came all the way top to bottom. Be patient. Keep at it. It’ll work. And take care never to bend or brake battery.

    Edward Merry -

    Yep followed Edward advice with great success, thanks. Damp washcloth in microwave for 2 minutes, wrapped in clingfilm. Sat phone on top and worked corner of old credit card carefully under as glue melted. The phone body heats up until almost too hot to touch as you hold it down to work —that’s where you want it! The strips then get very soft and can be removed without forcing anything. One cloth got most of one side up, second was enough to finish the job.

    Sam Harwood -

    A rice bag warmed in the microwave was another option for keeping the back of the phone warm.

    Russell Reid -

    We had only the flat dental tape. That breaks easily, but pearlescent embroidery thread did the trick. Scariest part of the whole process so far.

    Sarah Sorlien - Contestar

    I agree I had been patient the whole time and still broke an adhesive strip but I successfully used the spudger to complete the job along with a blow dryer but definitely the scariest part of the whole job…not for the faint of heart haha also bent the !#^& out of the battery someone correct me if i’m wrong but I think with enough patience the battery cable is a fine thing to pull on with heat I tried it without heat and it can handle a good deal of force before giving way I don’t know enough about the battery to know if it could cause a fire from ripping it off just thankful it didn’t catch fire on me

    Christopher Healy -

    This was the hardest part. I used a combination of a hair dryer and 3 credit cards (use ones you don’t care about as they will bend). After prying about 50%, I used my fingers for the rest. In the end my old battery was bent curved from the prying.

    morettisf - Contestar

    Don’t ever put your fingers under the batteries as they can heat up and burn you.

    chumblyf -

    I laid my phone on a heating pad for this step, which I think made it easier (but it was still hard!). My 2nd adhesive strip broke almost immediately, but the dental floss worked great!

    Carrie Lundy - Contestar

    Thanks for advice! I used sewing thread to separate the battery from the rear case. it wasn't hard. I think one shouldn’t risk heating it or bending it, when there are more safer ways.

    Илья Хмелёв - Contestar

    how is that possible , i tried several times but it breaks

    George Rockson -

    This step was quite a bugger for me too… I finally went in with the spudger from the very top of the phone / battery, which isn’t quite what they recommend. The battery definitely got bent doing it that route, but it didn’t catch fire, and everything appears to be working just fine after re-assembly!

    Kevin Brink - Contestar

    I heated the back of the phone on a heating pad set on high, but both adhesive strips still broke almost immediately. Tried a credit card but that got nowhere, so then I remembered seeing a video in which someone used monofilament fishing line. Worked perfectly. Just pulled it behind the battery, pulling on one side then the other until I worked it nearly all the way down, then the battery just lifted out. Wrap it around a couple of things to use as handles when you pull and it’s less painful.

    Gregory White - Contestar

    Wow… and no mention about the SILENT FLEX??? I folowed all this, glues the batt (instead of testing it first with an open screen) and after all the effort no buttons work (Power, Volume up/dn, and the Silent key - the Home button works)

    Please include some kind of warning about this

    kolorec - Contestar

    Sorry you had trouble. There’s a giant warning in red font with a link to a photo of the volume/silent flex cable—it’s the third bullet in the step. A lot can go wrong if you don’t read thoroughly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Jeff - I don’t know about kolorec, but I did read thoroughly, and stayed well away from the volume controls during the long and worrying battery extraction. However, I managed to damage the cable at the other side - where it comes up to plug into the logic board, near the display (etc) sockets. I suspect the dental floss was the culprit, but it might have been the chisel (joke!). So I have a working phone but have to adjust volume and power off in software.

    Ian Harris - Contestar

    Hey Ian, sorry to hear that. Let us know if you think the instructions need to be revised; we’re always trying to strike a balance between including adequate warnings and keeping it concise/readable. That cable can be replaced if desired, although it’s a more involved repair (both battery and logic board have to be removed first). If you haven’t yet, double-check and make sure it’s seated properly before you go further. Thanks for your feedback! Better luck on your next repair hopefully.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I wish I read this morу closely before pulling my battery out. Now I have to worry about replacing the volume control cable.

    Антон Зайцев - Contestar

    hello i am replacing my iphone 5s battery but i am stucked because the adhesive broke whiles pulling it out

    before i started i made sure my battery was 0% but i am afraid that when i mistakenly puncture it with the spudger it might catch fire

    please is the battery capable of catching fire when it has no power (0%)?

    please can someone give me the honest answers before i continue

    thank you

    George Rockson - Contestar

    I took out the logic board and was able to go under the battery from the side with a charlie card (though im sure any plasticky card wld do…), but I didn’t use it to pry, just got the adhesive stuck to the credit card (phone was warmed from the bottom before hand), and the adhesive was much easier to pull out from the side than it was from the bottom, only had to use the card a few times to get enough adhesive to actually grip with my fingers. After that it was pretty simple.

    Ashelee Collier - Contestar

    There was no folded tab for the adhesive strips in my 5S. After heating with a heating pad I used a combination of a thin plastic card to get started and while it was partially under the battery then added regular credit card to completely release the battery. It turns out the battery was held in by double-sided tape. This helps to explain why there was no metal clip over the hone button connector, I had a reconditioned 5S …sold as new from Singapore . I decided the doubled-tape was a good idea and since it was still very sticky installed the new battery with it.

    Morris Gray - Contestar

    This is like the boss level in an RPG. I tried dental floss and multiple credit cards and could not get it up (even while adding heat). I found that using the spudger on the bottom area and then pulling with my fingers worked best!

    Justin Minion - Contestar

    No plastic did work. Not stiff enough. We used a metal spatula with round edges and some metal piece at outmost care not to puncture the battery. Uh….. Apple could make this user friendly!

    Bernd Saegmueller - Contestar

    Hi, adhesive strips broke instantly, both of them.

    I reheated I-Opener 3 times and between each time - dental-flossed underneath the battery :)

    Every time I could get it further, so eventually I made it to the end. I have started it from the bottom of battery and going up. Dental floss broke several time, but persistence is key in this step.

    Good luck! :)

    Luka Liker - Contestar

    So grateful for this guidance. Having broken the tabs on the white adhesive strips, and then snapped a couple of pieces of dental floss trying Plan B, I moved to Plan C and pinched a string from my 12-string guitar. It worked a dream. Important correction to the notes though: it is the “octave G string” from a 12-string, not the E string, that you need to use (that’s the finest 0.008 or 0.009mm gauge). I never though my guitar collection would come in handy when fixing my iPhone

    Greg Smith - Contestar

    After both adhesive strips broke, what ended up working for me was using a 20-inch length of 0.23 mm (.009 in) diameter monofilament fishing line.

    I first worked it under the corner of the battery that’s toward the top of the phone and the logic board. Then I used a spudger to push the line under the other top corner so that it was barely under the battery parallel to the short end.

    Using just my fingers to pull both ends of the line toward the bottom of the phone, I was able to pull it about an inch before it felt completely stuck.

    From there, I applied a sawing technique by wrapping one end of the line around the rubber-grip shaft of screwdriver, pulling that end 0.5-1.0 inch toward the bottom of the phone, then switching to the other end of the string and repeating.

    It took several minutes of this sawing motion (and a repeat of the above steps after the first line snapped) to run the line through the whole length of the battery, but in the end the old battery was loose, unbent, and easy to just lift off.

    Pasi Jouhikainen - Contestar

    Putting rice in a long sock and microwaving it for about a minute works as a great heater. Placing it on the back for a couple of minutes and then using the Sudger tool worked wonders to lift it up to where I could grab the adhesive again and pull it out.

    Edwin Camacho - Contestar

    If these 30+ comments don’t make it clear enough:

    THIS IS THE MOST DIFFULT STEP (even more so without consulting comments beforehand).

    These instructions ought to be amended to reflect this since our overwhelming consensus:

    ‘…using a hair dryer Applying (targeted) Heat to the rear case directly behind the battery. .’

    Obviously attempting ‘Pull Up the original adhesive strips…’ should remain, rather than tacking on another bullet point, Inject an entirely new, numbered, step , e.g. when ‘The Adhesive Strips Breaks / snaps off…’

    If they (somehow) successfully removed Adhesive Strips on first try, then,

    ‘Skip ahead to Step # / the Next Step…’

    c0BRA - Contestar

    This is the most difficult part of this venture. My phone is circa 2016. Trying to remove the adhesive strip was a nightmare. They snapped immediately at the initiation of the pull. The heat trick with and without fishing line failed to budge the adhesion. Eventually, light heating and brute leveraging gradually lifted the battery out of its’ base with significant battery deformation. Outer wrapper remained intact fortunately. (I did not want to look up what happens if I punctured it.) Key is mild heat with gentle SLOW leveraging of battery out of its seating with the duller end of ifixit blue plastic “crowbar” they supplied. Metal would have penetrated the casing so be forwarned. Not that easy in an old iphone. BTW phone works GREAT!! Good luck!

    James wong - Contestar

    Here’s a method without all that yanking and pulling. You just need a thin screwdriver to wind the adhesive strip onto.

    1. First, expose the adhesive strip tabs as shown in Step 24. Cut where they are joined. You will then deal with each strip separately.

    2. Expose the the white sticky stuff of the adhesive strip. Don’t pull on anything in case it breaks. You just want to expose the white stuff.

    3. I used a thin “jewellers” screw driver. It’s only 1.5mm wide. Get the white adhesive strip onto the tip. The screwdriver shaft will rest on the metal edge of the phone. Protect the edge with some sticky tape. Might need 2 or 3 layers.

    4. Simply rotate the screwdriver as if unscrewing. You will wind the strip onto the screwdriver.

    5. Continue winding (unscrewing). Do not attempt to pull at the strips - they’ll break. Keep the tip of the screwdriver as close as you can to the battery. Don’t let the strip snag on anything else.

    Here’s a pic to explain what’s going on:

    https://ibb.co/QHgWfDR

    Big Ed - Contestar

    The idea of heating a moist washcloth, folder to phone case size, was a great one. In my case, used a heavier duty small freezer bag to keep the water at bay from the phone. I also prepositioned the floss so I could work it along under the battery once it was sufficiently warm. Thank you all. Old battery removed, but un-traumatized by the process.

    John Coates - Contestar

    9 out of 10 dentists agree, Oral B Essential floss is best for removing stubborn plaque, I mean adhesive.

    Richard Lange Jr - Contestar

    I broke the both pieces of tapes. I don’t have a hair drier, so I tried using the spudger, and a credit card to remove the battery. I tried putting something hot on the back of the phone. I tried with fishing thread. The thread broke… I really didn't want to damage the battery so I gave up. However, I successfully changed my screen.

    Jamworld876 - Contestar

    electric e-strings can get .009”. don’t use rusty olds.

    jebthaaxe - Contestar

    Both of my strips broke, isopropyl alcohol didn't help. I got dental floss under one corner and loosened a few mm after which progress stopped, i.e. it got stuck hard enough to break the dental floss. I don't have any monofilament. I will try heating the back of the phone, using a washcloth soaked in hot water and sealed in a ziploc bag as a heating pad.

    paul - Contestar

    Ok the hot washcloth (actually dish towel) plus sliding a credit card under the battery worked. Old battery is out. Now to attempt getting the new one in. The old adhesive strips were really stuck down pretty good and I think there was no way to pull them out with the recommended method, or to get enough alcohol under the battery to dissolve the adhesive. Heating is the only workable method and maybe some kind of thin metal shim tool would be helpful in cases where a credit card is too thick.

    paul - Contestar

    None of those methods worked for me and I didn't want the apply any liquid in the phone like alcohol. I was so !#^&@@ off as the video is very deceptive. I bet you over 95% of those sticky adhesives will break. In the end, and after 1 hour after carefully trying razor blades, wire, monofilament and a sharpened spatula. I wrapped the battery in electrical tape at the top and used my pliers and just ripped it out in about 10 seconds. I had pried the battery up about 1 inch to grip it with the pliers. I inserted the new battery, snapped in the connectors and all works fine. I have been repairing apple devices for years and I know what to avoid and when to go slow, so there was nothing that would have been damaged when I went at it with the pliers. I of course did not want to puncture the battery and I didn't. But be careful as it is very 'alive". I just touched one tiny exposed corner of it with the shaft of a screwdriver and sparks flew. The battery was totally flat (no energy) when I did this repair.

    Paolo Alberto - Contestar

    Ich war mit einem Kirschkernkissen (ca. 1 Minute in der Mikrowelle) und Buchbinderzwirn (Zahnseide riss zu schnell) sehr erfolgreich – konnte dann eine der Länge nach halbierte alte Kundenkarte relativ rasch von oben unter den Akku schieben und diesen etwas anheben und mit einer Pinzette die Klebestreifen unter dem Akku fassen –> die Klebestreifen konnten von oben ganz leicht abgezogen werden.

    Marie Müxeline - Contestar

  28. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 28, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 28, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 28, imagen 3 de 3
    • Jala la batería fuera de la carcasa posterior

    • Si tu batería de reemplazo viene en una envoltura de plástico, remueve la envoltura alejándola del cable plano antes de instalarla.

    • Si hay algún resto del alcohol restante en dispositivo, cuidadosamente limpialo o deja que se seque antes de instalar la batería.

    • Antes de adherir la batería de repuesto, vuelve a conectar temporalmente el conector de la batería al zócalo de la placa lógica. Esto asegura que la batería está correctamente alineada en su hueco.

    • Adhiere la batería, desconéctala y continúa montando tu dispositivo.

    • Si tu batería nueva no viene con adhesivos, consulta esta guía para reemplazar las tiras adhesivas.

    • Ejecuta un restablecimiento completo después del reensamblaje. Esto puede prevenir varios problemas y simplificar el proceso de solución de problemas.

    A few things for reassembly:

    To apply the adhesive strips, peel one side of the backing off, then without touching the strips put the whole thing adhesive side down where the old strips were, then pull off the remaining backing. If you pull the strips out first, they want to tangle up and become a blob. Trust me, I know. Sadface.

    To reapply the tiny bracket that holds the home button's cable in place, put the side with the one tab in first, oriented towards the bottom of the phone, then press the top with the two cut outs into place. There's two tabs in the phone body that should line up with the two cut outs.

    When closing it up, you have to slide the top of the screen flush into place before pressing the rest of the phone shut. If you don't, the top won't snap shut.

    lessawinston - Contestar

    The easiest way I have found to install the home button clip is to hold it with needle nose tweezers and slide it in from left to right, holding it at about 45 degrees. once the back cutouts are aligned, push down on the font to clip it in to place. Hope this helps. (I've done hundreds and struggled until I found this trick). ;)

    Jack -

    I agree with the last point about the need to get the top of the screen to seat flush before pressing in the rest of the screen. There are three plastic tabs on the top of the screen which need to fit into three holes in the metal case. My plastic tabs were bent up (upon opening?) and I had to bend them down (using the blue ifixit opening tool) to get them to fit into their holes so I could seat the top of the screen.

    Erik Osborn -

    Well, a couple comments:

    1. Once I completed the battery replacement and put the iPhone back together, everything is working EXCEPT incoming call ring, in and out going mail & text message sounds. However, audio streaming works just fine!

    > could this be the 4 screws in the wrong place? (I missed the screw detail the first time!);

    > could this be a not completely seated connectors?

    2. The iFixit instructions were incredible....however, one must read and reread the instructions to avoid "oops" situations.

    pmilkes - Contestar

    pmilkes, the same with me. Everything ok except the loudspeaker. I just did the same thing wrong as you did. (I did not notice the 1,2mm 1,3mm and 1,7mm screws.

    A good solution is appreciated.

    Thanks

    By the way, my phone (iphone 5s) went complete in drinking water for three hours while I was asleep. And after 2 months I decided to change the battery. So now everything is working except the loudspeaker. (I already ordered for a replacement of that also)

    thanks I fixit.

    alperinugur - Contestar

    You may need to use tweezers to carefully bend the metal bracket to make it fit tightly into the slots over the home button connector

    fredhdx - Contestar

    Am I supposed to reapply the old battery's adhesive strips to the new battery?

    Dan Sota - Contestar

    Don't bother. It really doesn't matter.

    Jack -

    No. Use new strips only.

    Magnus Dalen -

    Ensure you position the new battery nearer to the side of the case to allow room for the connector wire to fold down in the gap on the right side.

    Magnus Dalen - Contestar

    Hallo,

    habe gerade meinen Akku getauscht, bei einem iphone 5s.

    Ich habe die Schritte 17 - 22 in Zusammenhang mit dem einfachen Wunsch den Akku zu tauschen nicht für notwendig gehalten, vielleicht habe ich da ja auch etwas falsch verstanden... Ohne diese Schritte ging das ganze jedenfalls sehr fix von der Hand, Telefon läuft, Touch ID und Tonsignale, alles funktioniert.

    Hat vielleicht gerade mal 20 min gedauert+++

    Sehr schöne Anleitung und sehr gutes Werkzeug / Akku Set von ifixit!!! habe ich online bestellt, da passt dann wenigstens alles zusammen.

    Großes Lob, DANKE

    Dr B Schwarze

    google - Contestar

    I realize my SE is pretty “old” at this point in time, so I’m guessing the replacement kit is also old stock. My replacement adhesive strips that came with the battery would not separate from the blue backing at all, so I ended up installing the battery without any strips. Hopefully, this won’t result in any problems; it seems like the battery fits inside snugly, so I don’t anticipate it moving around. This replacement was done simultaneously with the lightning connector assembly replacement. I figured I’d do it all at once.

    Douglas Waski - Contestar

    @dwaski The kits aren’t old, but we’ve seen a few complaints about defective strips that don’t separate from the liner film properly. Sorry for the trouble! If you get in touch with our support team, they can hook you up with some replacement strips. The battery has no internal protection from jolts/movement—so if it’s not properly secured, it can lead to problems. Probably fine to leave it as-is for a while as long as you’re not taking it jogging or anything like that, but I’d recommend sticking it down at some point. Congrats on a successful repair!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Well, I think my phone is now broken. It will power up and all the buttons seem to work, no distortions in the LCD display, but no matter what I try the touch screen does not respond. I have tried reseating the cable multiple times. I’ve tried cleaning it. Nothing. I think a larger warning to not touch those cables unless *absolutely* necessary. Also, the iFixit kit comes with a simple suction cup instead of the clamp shown early in the instructions. Unless I was born with at least three arms there is no way to “gently” pry up the LCD display with a single suction cup (because there are ridges on the side that hold it *firmly* in place). I think my TouchID cover went missing as well. Over all, I think it will turn out to be a $150 mistake to have tried this. By the way, this is not the first time that I’ve taken a cell phone apart. Have taken apart two other cells phones to replace batteries before with no problems. taking the iPhone apart is *not* as easy as this guide would make it out to be.

    Eric Karlson - Contestar

    I did not remove the plastic sleeve which the replacement battery came in. Is this OK?

    Bruce Englar - Contestar

    Hi Bruce! I would strongly recommend opening the phone and removing the sleeve. Batteries naturally expand and contract a bit as they charge and discharge, and the plastic sleeve may prevent that from safely happening. The sleeve may also introduce wear/pressure points for other components such as cables.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Welp…iBrokeit. my husband’s iPhone 5s kinda worked before (battery level went all crazy and then the phone screen started freezing up) but now it won’t turn on at all. I reopened it to see what I did wrong but couldn’t find anything. Oh well, at least I tried.

    Margaret Suzanne Glover - Contestar

    worked like a charme for me. The only thing I would improve next time is placing the battery a little bit more to the top (speaker and camrea side of things) as I couldn’t fold in the glue stripes black rubber part in the end, because the battery was too close to the home button connector side.

    Peter Vogt - Contestar

    I finished the battery reinstall successfully, but it took me quite a while. Final thoughts:

    1. try heating underside of phone with hair dryer before attempting to pull adhesive strips from under battery. Might help, though I didn’t and ended up using guitar string under battery.

    2. buy a really good set of small philips screwdrivers. The set that came with the kit removed the tiny screws fine, but reinstalling the screws was impossible for me without a pro tiny philips.

    Patrick Pedersen - Contestar

    Worked well but now my home button makes a small click sound ☹️

    Hugo Foulon - Contestar

    I completed battery replacement successfully! Thanks to all who comment on the steps… home button cable tips, reassemble tips on clips at top of case. Etc.

    I own an iSclack- wouldn’t repair a phone without one. I hate jerking “softly” on a suction cup ring,

    Thanks ifixit for EVERYTHING, especially the power to self- repair,

    agoodgame08 - Contestar

    The original battery adhesive strips ripped on removal so I used isopropyl, removed the battery as instructed with a card and then waited a few hours for the phone to dry completely before installing the new battery. Is it possible I used too much isopropyl and destroyed the logic board?

    Everything went back together okay, clicked in place, but the screen won’t turn on at all, I went back in and double checked all the connections, where do I begin?

    Mark Andrews - Contestar

    Today I replaced the swollen battery in my iPhone 5s.  It was still working okay and everything functioning (except the touch ID).  I did a hard reset. When powered back up I got the Apple logo with the white screen, then the passcode screen showing 1percent battery. After entering passcode the home page showing all the apps comes up and showing much higher battery charge.  I can open an app by touching the screen, but can't close the app by touching the home button.  After a couple minutes the screen suddenly goes black and then after a few minutes, powers back up again and keeps repeating the cycle until I power the phone off.  Each time the passcode screen shows 1 percent low battery, but then shows close to fully charged battery when the home page with all the apps loaded opens.  I took the phone to a Verizon tec and he verified what I just said.  He told me that quite often, an iPhone won't recognize a replacement battery if it isn't an actual Apple battery.

    Jerry Pospeshil - Contestar

    I’ve found that it is easier to properly reinstall the screen by first fitting the top of the screen (near the on/off button) into place. Then work the sides into place by sliding your thumbs from the top to bottom. The screen seats at a point slightly above the case all around the edges. You’ve done it right if you can easily reinstall the screws.

    Randy Dale - Contestar

    It also helps to have a small magnifying glass & a very bright gooseneck lamp to help you see the small parts & connections. A white, terrycloth towel makes a great work area on which it is easy to lay out & keep track of screws, parts, & tools.

    Randy Dale - Contestar

    I forgot the stripes, are they totally needed? It seems complete close and nothing is moving inside

    Marcel K. - Contestar

    I put 2 small squares each side of battery

    info -

    WARNING: Line up the battery connector to the socket before adhering the new battery; there’s a little wiggle room in there and if you dont stick the battery in there just right, the allignment will be off and then you’ll have to worry about removing the new adhesive strips and possibly ruining your battery, etc. Just be careful and think ahead.

    Tom Beers - Contestar

    This!!! This should be highlighted in the guide!!

    I lined my battery up wrong and really had to torque the cables to get the connectors to seat. Fortunately they did.

    cvdwl -

    Another caveat: I replaced the battery but it didn’t end up quite where I wanted it. It was too close to the connector receptacle. Had to pry it against the new adhesive strips to realign it. In the process I tore the “heavy” wire next to the battery connector from it’s termination. This wire can be seen easily in Step 15. Anyway, there was no putting it back together. I’m horrible at soldering so I just tucked it in as best I could, hoping it would make and maintain contact with the bit of bare wire sticking out of the termination. Put everything back together and, so far so good. It’s charging nicely and everything seems to be working so far. Fingers crossed. Wonder what that wire is for.

    Stephen Yoder -

    After 24 hours, it appears that the only function my iPhone SE isn’t performing after my battery change is vibrate. Apparently, the wire I accidentally yanked out was controlling the vibrator. No huge loss. Turned “vibrate” off in the control panel to reduce the possibility of problems due to errant electrical signals on the disconnected wire.

    Stephen Yoder -

    After following all of these steps and then performing a hard reset, my battery drains very quickly. If I do not use my phone for a few hours, when I come back my battery is completely dead. Does anyone have any ideas on what could cause the battery to drain like this?

    slapstick4235 - Contestar

    I put a Green Cell battery, thats company from Poland. 12 eur and gives 12 month warranty

    info - Contestar

    Replaced the battery (and screen while I was at it) and it’s working, but now my phone seems to get hot really quickly. Does anyone know why this would happen?

    sbarmstrong - Contestar

    Placing new battery: There is very little play to adjust the position of the battery, but there is a small amount. I put it tight against the home button end of the case. It was borderline impossible to get the home button connector’s bracket in between the battery and the home button connector socket at the end of the installation. Next time will place the battery as far as I can against the top of the phone.

    Dan - Contestar

    Unfortunately, Touch-ID not working anymore.

    -> Does anyone know what I could have done wrong and how I can fix it ?

    Hirt Didier - Contestar

    This happened to me and unless you know someone who does micro soldering it is likely impossible.

    chumblyf -

    Completed the battery replacement in good order, and everything works as it should. This is the second time I've replaced the battery. First time was almost exactly 3 years ago. This battery has been needing to be replaced for probably 3-4 months. Still, I'm happy with the life of the last battery, which was also an iFixIt battery. The charge life of this battery seems a bit low, but I'm still happy with the improvement. I did calibrate it exactly as the instructions stated. It is only on it's third day after replacement, so I might see some additional slight improvement in charge life. It will last from about 5:00AM until early afternoon, going from 100% down to the low 20%.

    FYI, I do have a Dell XPS-13 that I replaced the battery in exactly 1 year ago with an iFixIt replacement battery. The track pad is already lifting again indicating that it need replacing again. That seems too soon to me. I'd appreciate any comments about that.

    Many thanks to you guys & girls at iFixIt. Love what you do to help.

    Ron Connelly - Contestar

    Ive replaced a fair few batteries, yet one SE is not accepting ANY aftermarket batteries, tried from here, ebay & amazon, every battery is seemingly dead, put original back in, turns on like normalsurely i couldnt have had 4 bad batteries in a row??…looks like im buying used…funny though, if i change the microchip strip over to a replacement, its recognises the new battery, but never fully charges it..nice guides tho guys 👍

    Rick Wheeler - Contestar

    Chances are there is also water damage or some problems you can’t easily see.

    chumblyf -

    Before dropping the new battery in, carefully fold the black ribbon at the end of the battery so that it lies flush against the end, and then use a temporary piece of scotch tape to hold it in place while you drop the battery in where you want it. Once the battery is stuck in place (usually pretty tight up against the home button connector), then you can carefully remove the temporary scotch tape, and you're golden.

    dano16 - Contestar

  29. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s, Controles de volumen: paso 29, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que sujetan los soportes del botón de volumen e interruptor de timbre del lado de la caja trasera:

    • Un tornillo Phillips 1.9 mm

    • Dos tornillos Phillips de 1.6 mm

  30. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 30, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 30, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 30, imagen 3 de 3
    • Usa la punta de un spudger para levantar el soporte del interruptor de timbre del lado de la caja.

    • Remueve el interruptor de timbre de su zócalo entre el soporte del interruptor de timbre y la caja.

    • Ten en cuenta la orientación para volver a ensamblar: La línea roja debe estar en la parte superior del botón. La muesca en la parte posterior del botón interruptor de timbre deber estar en la misma posición y encajar con el interruptor mecánico en el cable.

    I can’t get the middle screw out?

    TheRe - Contestar

  31. Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 31, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de controles de volumen del iPhone 5s: paso 31, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa un spudger para levantar el soporte de botón de volumen desde la parte lateral de la caja trasera.

    • Remueve los botones de volumen.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, asegúrate de que '+' el botón de subir volumen esté en el orificio más cercano al interruptor del timbre.

    Why is the power button not included in this guide? It’s part of the repair.

    Jenny Lawson - Contestar

Conclusión

Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

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4 comentarios

My phone was shattered and i did a total replacement of the rear case and the screen. All went well except... the volume controls do not work. The silence button above it does, but the +- dont. They feel wrong when pressed. They don't make the clicking sound. Anyone a suggestion of what went wrong?

steven - Contestar

I had to replace the power flex cable, which means taking almost everything out. Scary! When I restarted, my power button and flash were fixed but my volume was the same as yours and my home button didn't work. :( That Touch ID cable and cover are from h#$l! Anyway, I went back in and everything is working now. Instead of doing them like in the photos and videos, I attached the silence button first and then the volume buttons. So when you put in the middle screw that holds them both in, the screw goes through volume first and then silence.

Oh ya, ifixit is a great resource. Thanks!

Kim Mace - Contestar

I noticed one thing during my replacement that may affect others doing this repair. Upon reaching step 30 I noticed that my volume button bracket appeared to be bent slightly near the lower screw (the one toward the bottom of the case). Ultimately I had to bend the bracket to make the volume button work correctly. When I reassembled the bracket with the new buttons before bending it the - button would not come back fully to its normal position. After careful bending with a pair of needle nose pliers and the button worked correctly.

It is CRITICAL that you test your volume buttons and the ringer switch before you reassemble your phone!

che1991 - Contestar

Great guide, but I can’t get out the screw that is located between the volume up button and the mute switch! It is not stripped (at lease the head isn’t), any ideas?

TheRe - Contestar

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