Introducción

Utilice esta guía para reemplazar la pantalla agrietada o rota en su iPhone 5s intercambiando el ensamblaje de la pantalla.

Esta guía le ayudará a quitar la pantalla y el botón de inicio para transferir a la nueva parte. Esta guía no incluye la extracción de la cámara frontal y el cable del sensor, ni el altavoz del auricular. Si su parte no tiene estos componentes, siga las instrucciones más detalladas front panel guide.

En cualquier caso, es importante transferir el botón de inicio original a la nueva pantalla para que Touch ID (digitalización de huellas digitales) funcione.

Resumen del Video

  1. Si la pantalla de tu dispositivo está rota,  evita sufrir daños físicos utilizando celo.
    • Si la pantalla de tu dispositivo está rota, evita sufrir daños físicos utilizando celo.

    • Pon tiras de celo transparente sobre la pantalla rota hasta que la totalidad de la pantalla esté cubierta.

      • Esto hará que los cachitos de cristal se adhieran al celo, evitando daños a tu dispositivo cuando se levante la pantalla.

    • Utilizar gafas de seguridad para proteger tus ojos frente a los cristales que puedan saltar durante la reparación.

    This was the most stressful thing I have ever done. I can't get the chips to pop in the top right corner, still coming up with white lines at top of screen even after re-powering the battery. Very poor experience, will let apple or a professional handle this rather than a how to. &&^& this.

    steven krieger - Contestar

    This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

    TerryChang - Contestar

    An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

    TerryChang -

    I faced the same issue. My 5S wouldn't open with the iSclack. Had to use the suction cup instead. Even then, I wrestled with it for a whole 30 minutes.. Apparently my 5S is one sticky beast.

    Daylen -

    Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!.. It is not necessary to take the screen completely off. I did my 5 that was and assumed the 5S had a different protocol for a reason. It doesn't require removing the creen at all. I was careful on my 5 and had no problem. I took different prcautions and watched only the video and screwed up a perfectly good 5S... This means if your not backed up you just lost all your contacts and messages videos etc.... iFix is cool except their Video is not concise like the long instructions they provide. I was stupid and figured I new what i was doing after doing a couple other batteries and bingo I screwed it...

    yaterbob - Contestar

    Before embarking on this task, be sure you don't simply have built-up lint in the lightening port. I found that with a needle and some very CAREFUL workmanship removing lint/debris from the base of the port was what was ailing my machine.

    mark40 - Contestar

    Before embarking on this, remember to order some new replacement sticky adhesive strips, as these do not come with the replacement battery. I didn’t realise this until I had removed the battery. I just replaced it without and have crossed my fingers!

    debsmcd6 - Contestar

    As to my comment above, I had to order them and fit them to the battery as it was moving around inside!

    debsmcd6 - Contestar

    There is no need to over tape the screen; one strip is enough if wider to make a full cover. My screen was super fragmented and it worked beautifully with just one layer of tape.

    Andre Silva - Contestar

  2. Antes de continuar, descarga la batería del iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de litio-ion cargada puede incendiar y / o explotar si se pincha accidentalmente.
    • Antes de continuar, descarga la batería del iPhone por debajo del 25%. Una batería de litio-ion cargada puede incendiar y / o explotar si se pincha accidentalmente.

    • Apaga tu iPhone antes de comenzar el desmontaje.

    • Retira los dos tornillos Pentalobe de 3.9 mm de cada lado del conector Lightning.

    I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

    Magnus Dalen - Contestar

    For a secure working, put a small pot with lid on your workplace. When the battery starts burning, throw it in the pot, close it with the lid and get the pot safely out of the building, e.g. on the balcony or throw it out of the window. Do not try to extinct the battery with water, just let it burn out outside. This might take some hours.

    Raymond Willems - Contestar

    This is a really helpful one! My battery caught fire but luckily it was only one cell and not the entire battery. So it was done after a few seconds and I could go on with the replacement.

    Matthias Blab -

    Directions should say “use the P2 screwdriver head.”

    William Kolb - Contestar

    ifixit supplied a set of replacement philips screws (marked “Liberate!”). Thanks but I’m sticking with the pentalobe since they fit more securely than philips which have a chance of stripping if not held with the right amount of pressure.

    Don Libes - Contestar

    What are you supposed to do if the screws are stripped or won’t come out. No luck with the tweezers either.

    ibrokeit - Contestar

    Yep i‘ve had the same problem. One screw out, one that won‘t budge!!!

    Stennett -

    “cheater” reading glasses are a big help. Carolyn

    Carolyn Green - Contestar

    In this step, it is the P02 screwdriver from the kit (see that the nib has five sides , exactly for ‘pentalobe’ screws). All the other steps involving screws it was the Philips 000 (there was a third screwdriver Y 000 in the kit which I did not use). Did not have any problems at all removing and readding screws back through the process.

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    • En los siguientes pasos vas a separar la pantalla del cuerpo del teléfono. La pantalla está formada por cristal y un bisel de plástico con clips metálicos en los laterales.

    • Da igual que herramienta utilices, pero debes estar seguro de que sacas toda la pantalla.

    • Si el cristal empieza a separarse del plástico, como se muestra en la primera imagen, desliza una herramienta de apertura entre el bisel de plástico y el cuerpo metálico del teléfono para que los clips metálicos de los laterales salgan del chasis.

    • Si estás montando el teléfono y tiene el bisel de plástico de la pantalla separado, deberías poner una fina tira de adhesivo entre el bisel y el cristal de la pantalla para mantener el teléfono cerrado.

    can this separation makes the screen stop working

    bassam_shallak92 - Contestar

    In my experience, dust particles have entered the screen, and partially ruins the wiewing experience, but this far the screen still works

    Iver søbakk -

    If the screen spilt and half is still stuck in the phone (clips broke and came out), how do I get the rest of the display panel up? It appears stuck, almost glued down.

    Shara Nelson - Contestar

    I was attempting to replace the battery on a phone that had been dropped once to create a dent in the top right corner, which pushed out the screen a tiny bit in that region, but not enough to break or render it non-functional. That all changed when I attempted to open my phone. I have a 5s and I had a friend’s broken SE that I was practicing on. I did not realize that either the construction of the screen is different, or that the dent in my phone would be that much of a problem. When I opened my phone, the top of the screen popped up almost immediately…. without the plastic bevel. It took a bit to get the bottom part open, but the plastic bevel in the top part was still stuck in the frame. I panicked and closed everything, but the screen was popped out from the frame even more and now when I turn on the phone, the screen has a green tint and won’t respond to touch :’(

    Zhian Kamvar - Contestar

    • Los siguientes dos pasos se demuestran utilizando iSlack, una buena herramienta para abrir de forma segura el iPhone, la cual recomendamos para cualquiera que vaya a realizar más de una reparación. Si no estás usando iSlack, ve al Paso 6.

    • Cierra el agarre en iSlack, abriendo las pinzas de las ventosas.

    • Sitúa la parte de abajo de tu iPhone entre las ventosas.

      • La ventosa superior debe estar justo sobre el botón de home.

    • Abre el agarre para cerrar las pinzas de iSlack. Centra las ventosas y presiónalas tanto en la parte superior como inferior del iPhone.

    DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

    Izaac Post - Contestar

    Thank you very much, however already used the suction cup and it came much easier than expected... Then snapped the home cable on my wife's phone... Now I have to replace that...

    Thomas Hallberg -

    This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

    Magnus Dalen - Contestar

    I used this tool on 2 successful screen replacements - BUT on the third time, the force did in fact separate the glass from the plastic, so I'd suggest inspecting first, and using with care.

    Andrew - Contestar

    This is the third repair using the iSclack it didn't have enough force to lift the face. I used the flat tool to help separate it. Thanks to those who warned against this tool due to pulling the glass face loose. I didn't think of that.

    ldavis - Contestar

    • Sujeta tu iPhone de forma segura y cierra el agarre de iSlack para separar las ventosas, separando la pantalla del chasis.

    • iSlack está diseñado para abrir tu iPhone de forma segura lo suficiente para separar las piezas, pero sin dañar el cable del botón de home.

    • Suelta las dos ventosas de tu iPhone.

    • Salta los próximos tres pasos y sigue al Paso 9

    Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair(place zip-tie around home button area and hold in place while using the tool). Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - Contestar

    The iSclack tool is a no brainer. I simply cleaned both areas were the suction cup secured to and pushed the ends of the iSclack together. Could not have been easier! The use of a zip tie did interest me, but I went the easiest way for no mistakes (iSclack). Be sure to hold the top of the phone securely, when open the bottom, which ever options you choose.

    iScott - Contestar

    This worked for me. Unfortunately I managed to pinch the fleshy bit of my index finger when closing shut the handles….ouch! So just be a bit careful!

    debsmcd6 - Contestar

    • Si no tienes iSlack, utiliza una ventosa para levantar el panel frontal de tu iPhone.

    • Presiona la ventosa contra la pantalla, justo por encima del botón de home.

    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa esté completamente unida a la pantalla para tener una buen sellado.

    My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

    cpwittenberg - Contestar

    Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

    Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

    Craig Matthews -

    I suspect that the age of the phone and accident that caused cracks make this method possible for some people. My mom's phone was only a month or so old and the suction cup only caused the screen to raise slightly. There was certainly no crack I could squeeze a spudger into. I just superglued the suction cup onto the screen in the end, which was very effective.

    Caroline Russell -

    Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

    Malcolm - Contestar

    I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

    paul -

    This has probably been replied to, but see step 31 :) Should be re installed with the pokey out bits pointing down.

    daveoline -

    Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

    Lukeapple1414 - Contestar

    First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

    iGuys -

    My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

    Nathan - Contestar

    @malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

    hari - Contestar

    In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

    also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

    Robert Colvin - Contestar

    The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

    I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

    johnsonjohnr - Contestar

    Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

    daveoline -

    I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

    I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

    matttaylor - Contestar

    If other people have this issue, I would try supergluing a screen protector over the old screen - leave a wide margin around the edges, home key, ear speaker. You could even just cut a piece of the protector into a square, or get a rectangle of shipping tape, the glued down portion needn't cover the whole screen. Then, glue the suction cup on top of the glued down screen protector or tape. I suggest this over the utility knife because it seems like the knife method would at the very least scratch up and nick the frame.

    Caroline Russell -

    i did this now i'm having a hard time putting the metal bracket back on :(

    sineglabs - Contestar

    1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

    2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

    3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

    4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    We got this to work. Some patience required, but absolutely doable. Our new iFixit suction cup did nothing, but a random one around the house worked fine. Just be patient and work it gently up, this use an opening tool or exacto blade to get into the seem once it comes up. Really quite doable. I'm glad I didn't spend 25 bucks on the fancy tool (a must for repeat use, I'm sure). But don't be deterred by the negatives above. Just go slow.

    Chris Twomey - Contestar

    I.did not read all the comments so I hope this isn’t redundant but my screen was too damaged to provide the air tonight seal that any suction device would need. The ifixit #3 flat head prayed the top out very easily. YMMV but I wouldn’t even try any other method before attempting to push the flat head down between the case and the glass. I thought it might bend the case out just a little causing a slight cosmetic damage but I have a rotective case that covers that anyway so who cares. Incidentally the case protected it from a lot of falls but not from gettin run over by my truck. A Prius once, but not the truck

    Bill Pennock - Contestar

    Oh and if you think this step is hard wait till you get to the screws on the home key or sliding the bracket back over the Touch ID cable connector. That is where the real problems are

    Bill Pennock - Contestar

    Single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - Contestar

    I concur with Bryan’s post. The suction cup that was included with the toolkit that came with my battery wouldn’t hold to the screen when I pulled on it (the rubber was pretty soft, and the surface not smooth - not at all like the suction cup shown in the pictures of this guide). Fortunately I have a suction cup with a hook used typically for hanging things on the wall of a shower that held on quite tight that did the job - in fact, I had to use the point of the spudger to get under the edge of the suction cup to get it to release. I also used the zip tie trick someone else posted for making sure the screen didn’t open too far before disconnecting the home button cable, but it wasn’t necessary - I got the screen lifted with enough control that the cable was never in danger.

    stuart40plus - Contestar

    Suction cup supplied by ifixit worked for me. Of course I used all the tricks mentioned previously: Zip ties, work on one corner at a time, and work slowly - don’t expect it to pop out easily/quickly.

    Don Libes - Contestar

    Getting cocky after replacing a display screen and battery in a 6S i-Phone, I decided to open up my own -Phone SE and replace the old battery with a new one. I used one of the flip lever suction cup devices and it worked so well, that the display screen popped open so far that the Home Button Cable was torn off from the Home Button Assembly. I followed the instructions for re-assembly, but the damage was done. Lesson learned…read the Repair Guide before starting a repair!

    Peter Bovey - Contestar

    Suction cup for itself did not work for me. Then, I used a double face tape on it, and it worked nice (don’t try to remove the suction cup until you have fully unplugged the screen though). The suction cup should be used only to make a little gap for the other tools (spudger and that one which is blue). Sorry for the all caps, but ‘PULL THE SCREEN VERY SLOWLY’ (many people here commented there was a failure in this spet even being cautious).

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    • El panel frontal tiene una serie de clips en los laterales, y hay varios cables que conectan la pantalla al resto del teléfono. Tu misión aquí es separar los clips y abrir el teléfono solo lo suficiente como para desconectar los cables. Vete despacio y con cuidado para evitar daños.

    • Estate seguro de que la ventosa esté firmemente sujeta al panel frontal por encima del botón de home.

    • Mientras sujetas el iPhone con una mano, tira de la ventosa para arriba para separar la pantalla del chasis a la altura del botón de home.

    • Con una herramienta de apertura, deslízala por los bordes del chasis del teléfono, no por los de la pantalla, mientras tiras hacia arriba de la ventosa.

    • Tómate tu tiempo y aplica fuerza firme y constante. El panel frontal del 5s es mucho mas fino que la mayoría de dispositivos.

    Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

    llcoreyll - Contestar

    Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

    idmadj -

    Agreed, I really wish I had paid extra to buy the isclack. Didn’t because I thought that I could be careful—that iFixIt provided just the suction and it would take a few days to get the extra tool. Take the time. Its not worth it.

    Thought I was extremely careful—absolutely no movement or pull. Then pop. Pulled home button cord right out of its socket. Buying a new phone later today. The extra few days and additional cash would have totally been worth it.

    Timothy Fry -

    Found it very easy to do with a single suction cup, just wiggle and pry.

    emiserry -

    It may help to position the suction cup off-center and pull up one corner first.

    Rosemary McNaughton - Contestar

    Yes, I had problems initially (with the suction cup placed just above the home button) but placing it in the left corner did the trick.

    Brian Riess -

    Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

    Konrad Tlatlik - Contestar

    Lol. Evolved fingernails to open phones.

    Chal Miller -

    Wrap a zip-tie loosely around the phone to avoid pulling the cover too far off and breaking the ribbon cable.

    Thor Lancaster - Contestar

    Thank you for the zip tie suggestion!

    W Fleming -

    Zip tie is a brilliant suggestion. Very robust and safe way to pull the phone apart--I had mine wrapped just above the home button and kept the case from opening beyond about 1/8 of an inch.

    bartonh - Contestar

    Used the suction cup and only my screen came up. Looks as though the screen delaminated from its black aluminum mounting tray. The home button stayed with the tray as well. Any ideas?

    Kyle Rogers - Contestar

    I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

    adrt - Contestar

    We disagree with the naysayers. Patient use of the suction cup worked for us. The iFixit one didn't do it (it looked a bit deformed out of the box. But a random kids toy worked fine. Nothing fancy. Don't rush. Use an exacto as it starts to come up to slide in to the crevice. After that, works pretty well.

    Chris Twomey - Contestar

    The Jimmy tool worked for me. Managed to slide it in and twist slightly to pop the screen off without too much force.

    leeprobert - Contestar

    ifixit's sucktion cup and blue opening tool worked very well for me. I used the suction cup just enough to get the opening tool into a gap and gently pry out the clips. I'm glad that the display didn't give way too easily otherwise I might have damaged a cable. I wish I had read the zip tie comment first though.

    Scott Watson - Contestar

    ifixit's suction cup and blue opening tool worked well for me. Like the zip tie suggestion as a precaution.

    Erik Osborn - Contestar

    during reassembly, screen cracked worse than screen i was replacing!!

    Valerie Egan - Contestar

    Yup - I did the same thing… The top corner of the encasement was slightly bent from when I had dropped the phone and where the screen cracked originally. I didn’t notice it right away and when I went to “snap” the screen back down into place during reassembly, it wasn’t quite a perfect fit, and when I tried to press it into place, I cracked the new screen. Note to self - “check for small dents in the encasement and try to fix before trying to tighten down the screen”. The new cracked screen is still better than the one that I was replacing. I feel so dumb. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake I guess. Hopefully this little write up saves someone else from making the same mistake.

    Christopher Flynn -

    I also broke the screen (after replacing the battery). When closing up the screen, insert the top of the screen first, then lay the phone face down on a flat surface and apply pressure from the back of the phone. It worked for me…

    stopsurfing - Contestar

    This is a great idea! Works for me too!

    JC Alice -

    This comment definitely should be in the guide!! It is an awesome hint.

    Andre Silva -

    Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair. Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - Contestar

    Use some tape to limit how far the screen will open. I used wide packing tape, stuck it to the bottom of the display, where the home button is, and to the opposite side, on the back. It left a loop of tape, front to back, around the bottom of the phone, that had about an inch of slack. This allowed the display to pop off completely without any danger to the home button cable. No prying required.

    Michal Pawlowski - Contestar

    YES! I was just about to suggest this as I tore the home cable even though I was really careful opening it.

    Arthur Shi -

    What worked extremely easy for me was I used a utility knife to score on the joint below the home button. The blade went in easy then lightly pried the screen up then followed up the rest of the way with the ifixit opening tool. I’m sure the ifixit Jimmy tool would work as well, instead of the utility knife.

    Scott Nacke - Contestar

    I wish I’d looked at the comments here before I tore the home button cable. I was trying to be careful and not to rip it but it just got away from me. Now I’ve ordered the replacement part…

    Graham Agnew - Contestar

    The glass of my screen went off at first and there was also a black plastic frame that I managed to peel off as well.

    At first I didn’t notice that the metal bracket didn’t come off. It was a bit of a struggle to lift the metal bracket.

    Wolfgang Bauer - Contestar

    Wish I’d read through these first.

    Used the suction cup but went too far when the display finally popped loose pulling the home button cable off the main board. Hope it was only the cable that was damaged - will try a replacement home button.

    Limiting the display’s travel with tape or a zip tie is an excellent idea !!!

    Leonard - Contestar

    I used the suction cup, but used a long screwdriver through the pull-ring help up with books either side piled to just lift the phone of the worksurface when I started to apple downward force on the phone. Meant that I could be more confident applying force as, if it did go suddenly, the phone would only travel the distance down to the surface. Had to add a few books as I hadn’t allowed for them compressing as I applied force.

    Peter Whitworth - Contestar

    We used the little suction cup the Ifixit supplies in the repair kit, NOT the iSclack. It took many attempts, patience, and two people working together, but ultimately we succeeded. Here are a few tips: soak the suction cup in very hot (just boiled) water for 5-10 minutes to get it really warm and pliable. As one person holds the phone and pulls up on the suction cup, the other should work the blue opening tool at the first sign of the display assembly starting to lift from the phone. Many times the suction cup would pop off but we kept heating the cup, resticking, and working it until we finally opened it. We used the cable tie suggestion above as well to be sure the phone would not open too far and this saved us when it finally popped free. Remember to work the clips on the side as well once you have a gap. Honestly, this took the most patience of all 62 steps! (Yes, there are 62 steps…only 54 more to go!)

    James M. Day - Contestar

    I could not exert enough force using the suction cup that came with iFixit battery replacement kit

    to pull the bottom of the screen away from the case. However, an X-acto knife inserted between the

    screen and the bottom edge of the case near the left corner allowed me to lift the screen sufficie

    ntly to insert a stiffer blade (a tiny screwdriver). Lifting further with the stiffer blade I was

    able to complete the separation by sliding the edge of a credit card along the bottom and sides of

    the screen. A plectrum would have worked as well. Using a knife blade eliminates the risk of dama

    ging the home-button cable.

    JPF - Contestar

    They really should include tips like a zip tie to prevent over opening and tearing the home button cable. Now I need to replace my home button.

    Lisa Jakubowsk - Contestar

    • Intenta no soltar la pantalla de golpe, ya que hay varios cables que conectan la pantalla al chasis.

    • Presiona el saliente de plástico de la ventosa para soltarla.

    • Suelta la ventosa de la pantalla.

    Cracked my screen using the supplied suction cup. Had to apply clear packing tape to screen to very patiently finish the job. However, now I need a new screen. How nice :-(

    Scott Stathis - Contestar

    I added a double face tape in the suction cup to make it work, and then, I did not try to remove it until I had unplugged the screen. It was inconvenient not being able to work with the screen in a horizontal position when removing the ‘home button’ but it wasn’t also the end of the world.

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    • Abre el telefono lo suficiente para revelar el soporte de metal cubriendo el cable de boton de inicio.

    • No abras el telefono demasiado o arriesgas dañar el cable de boton de inicio, o el enchufe al cual se conecta. Manten el cable flojo—si es estirado tenso, es demasiado.

      • Solo el ensamblaje original de boton de inicio del telefono sera capaz de utilizar la funcionalidad de Touch ID. Si rompes el cable, instalando un nuevo boton de inicio solo restaurara la funciones ordinarias de boton de inicio, no las funciones de Touch ID.

    • Utiliza la punta de un spudger para empujar y liberar el soporte y quita lo con un par de pinzas.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, asegúrate de orientar el soporte para que el lado con el punto mire hacia el inferior del teléfono y el lado con las dos rajas mire hacia la batería.

    I had put some what more pressure to suck and sensor cable got detached from upper part(display) , now what shall i do , how to fix it ?

    Nikunj - Contestar

    Is the touch ID bracket really important or have any use ? I forgot to put it back… Is it going to malfunction ?

    John Doe - Contestar

    mine did not appear to have a bracket.. I am wondering too if this is going to mess with it?

    Donna Godfrey -

    It's there to keep it firmly in place.

    Didier Daniel -

    My bracket popped out when I opened the screen too far, so if you can’t see the bracket, look around inside your phone. it might be hiding out.

    lucy -

    Mine also doesn't seem to have a bracket. Plus the cable unclipped itself when the screen shot free - yikes. Looks OK though. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

    Gabe - Contestar

    I wrapped a velcro tie loosely around the phone so it wouldn't open up too far. (or could use a zip tie) Then while holding the screen down with one hand, I pulled the suction cup up with the other hand, using gradual pressure. while using a "wiggeling" upward pressure, I concentrated on raising the left side of the screen, which gradually started to loosen up. then I concentrated on the lower left corner until I had enough of a gap to work in the the flat surface of the plastic tool. I then pried on this corner. The screen then popped up without stressing the home button cable.

    Harry

    Harry Jones - Contestar

    Genius. Pure genius.

    Aiden Baker -

    I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

    andy - Contestar

    DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

    Max Powers - Contestar

    You say you have to use the original home button. But what is the button "bound" to? The motherboard?

    Iver søbakk - Contestar

    Yep. Bound to the phone CPU.

    Michael Walker -

    When I lifted my screen during this step, the metal LCD shield plate did not come out with the screen. Very confusing. I needed to carefully pry around the shield plate's side notches, just inside the walls of the iPhone's back, in order to lift it out. Required a trifle bit more force than I anticipated.

    Zac Imboden - Contestar

    I’m already limited to using a touch screen home button. (physical home button stopped responding but fingerprint works) Would this take away that functionality of my on screen home button? does this affect the fingerprint security feature?

    Kris704 - Contestar

    I used the 5S battery kit that iFixit shipped me and attached the suction cup to the screen and gently started pulling to lift the screen. It lifted revealing a very slight crack and I used the spudger tool with the suction cup still lifting away gently and it opened more. At no point did I see any home button cable???

    When the screen came off more I continued to follow all the other instructions and have got to step 23 … I see no battery adhesive tab???

    Just loads of black electrical tape blending in with the battery seal. So now I have no clue how to complete taking the battery out?

    Completely bummed at this point….

    Alun Williams - Contestar

    Sounds like you’ve got an iPhone 5. This guide is for the 5s. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Be forewarned: make sure you really really want that new battery or display replacement, because you are VERY likely to lose your Touch ID feature on your phone after taking this step. It is extremely sensitive. The front of the bracket is the point of tension that holds it in place. In my case, as I carefully used the spudger to release the bracket, the released tension shot the bracket out of the phone and the Touch ID cable popped out of its socket with it. This gave me a start but I inspected both parts and they appeared to be fine. I finished the battery replacement, and put the cable back in place only to discover: no Touch ID. Even after I re-opened the phone two more times and finally figured out how to properly reseat the bracket, Touch ID was gone. Judging by this experience the Touch ID cable/pins must be insanely sensitive – perhaps one pin was dislodged by a fraction of a millimeter? I can’t say for sure. But sadly after repeated and careful attempts to reseat it, my Touch ID is lost for good. :(

    N B - Contestar

    Same here. I thought I was being very careful but ended up damaging something even though everything looked fine. No more TouchID for this old iPhone 5S…

    Michael Walker -

    There’s an easy solution to this step: use hemostats (miniature vice grip). Took me about 10 seconds (after over an hour using various other tools).

    Robert Smith - Contestar

    Attention in this part!! I had to put more pressure than I should, then the bracket flew away and the cable also unplugged all together (probably placed the spudger beneath the cable instead of only beneath the bracket). I was lucky nothing bad happened, but I lost total control in this step (it was my only mistake).

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    Tape the screen to the case on the sides with some slack to keep the screen from opening too far.

    Nace - Contestar

    Just wedge the sharp end of the forceps between the bracket and the plug and push until the bracket pops open. That way there is no danger of tearing out the entire socket.

    Imre Treufeld - Contestar

    One way to easily access the bracket (for removal and for insertion) is to rotate the display around the cable connection horizontally, so that the screen is not above the bracket but rather to the side.

    When disassembling, note that the screen assembly is hinged to the bottom on the edge away from the home button. After first opening the screen to about 30 degrees as above, slide the screen in the direction where the home button was to disengage this hinge (this is the first bullet item in step 13 below). Then rotate to expose the bracket to eyes and tweezers.

    Yishai Sered - Contestar

    • Durante el reensamblaje, necesitaras reinstalar el soporte del cable de Touch ID. La parte superior del soporte necesita ser deslizada entre la bateria y el conector de cable de Touch ID, en frente de la pestaña de metal, y la parte delantera debe de cerrar sobre el conector.

    • Desliza la parte superior del soporte sobre el conector de cable de Touch ID de la izquierda a la derecha.

    This is the hardest part lol

    Bob smith - Contestar

    I concur! I think I need thinner tweezers.

    FierDancr -

    1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone. Mine didn't "latch down" or stay in place - it just sort of sat there.

    2) Note that the rest of the bracket this attaches to must be removed from the Lightning Connector assembly & reattached to the new one.

    3) I combined this repair w/replacing the battery, and smashed the bottom of the bracket under the battery/adhesive strips. Careful not to do that, so that you can actually complete this step.

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    Comment above was made on the Lightning Connector replacement guide - I guess it got pulled over here since as well since the steps are identical ... Anyway careful not to smash the bottom bracket w/the replacement battery or adhesive

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    That was fun without tweezers :)

    Oscar - Contestar

    Even with tweezers (the eyebrow kind) it was still an exercise in extreme calming techniques. I nearly gave up, but after 20 minutes I finally got it to seat and clamp.

    natzulf -

    It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

    copeconsultancy - Contestar

    I think it's the pics and the word 'slide' that throws people off. I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place. Still the guide had this down for me in 30 minutes even with the 'hardest part' haha and the part from ifixit worked and looked perfect.

    Brent Hillyer - Contestar

    After reading the comments I was not looking forward to this step on re-assembly. I agree that the pictures and the instruction to “slide” the bracket into place may be worrisome. But I was able to orient the bracket directly over where it was supposed to go. Then inserted the 2 clips (top) in first and easily and gently snapped the bottom clip into place. Probably spent less than a minute on this part.

    Jere -

    After about 20 minutes I wonder if I could just snap it in place. I did it in about 15 seconds.

    The “slide part and accompanying images are really misleading.

    jpfranc -

    It took me 10 minutes to accomplish this step; 9’:55’’ I spent reading the comments and 0:05’’ plugging the bracket the way you describe. This step step should be edited in this guide. It is definitely misleading people.

    Andre Silva -

    DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

    Max Powers - Contestar

    Not everyone should ditch the bracket just because you did. The bracket is there to keep everything firmly in place.

    Didier Daniel -

    I did finally leave it off. I’m sure if I worked for Foxconn I could snap those on in seconds flat. After 30minutes of trying I figured it would either work or I’d have to spring fo a new phone. It just wasn’t gonna happen for me. Right now it’s working so it’s all about reliability now

    Bill Pennock -

    I'm not so patient, so I finally gave up and ditched the bracket. No problem so far. Anyway, ditch it at your own risk!

    Daniel del Saz -

    On an old 5S, the metal retainer bracket snapped in easily. There was no sliding, the rear edge dropped in straight, it hinged down, and locked almost before I knew it. The lack of a click or any positive feel on this critical connector surprised me a lot. I had to eyeball it with a magnifier to feel sure the ribbon connector was really in its socket. Works perfectly after the replacement, though.

    Jeff Clayton - Contestar

    All this time I was trying to put the bracket right next to the battery but that's not right. There's no way the bumps on the metal connector can fit in the slots on the bracket. It's battery, metal connector and then the bracket. So easy. Next time I dismantle an iPhone 5S I won't be dreading this step.

    Kim Mace - Contestar

    I should NOT have had that cup of coffee before I attempted this!

    Cory Powell - Contestar

    This was definitely the fiddliest bit of the whole reassembly.

    After trying the slide in and then press method many times without success I ended up feeding it in directly with the tweezers, carefully angling it back up into position, then clipping it down. But the whole thing took at least 5 minutes. And my shaky hands didn’t help matters!

    Toby Moncaster - Contestar

    I was sweting gallons during this step!

    Timothy Owens - Contestar

    The replacement of the bracket was tricky. The bracket has to be put in under the two tiny tabs in the back (next to the battery) and then pushing down in the front. I knew I had it when I heard a little click from the one tab in the front seating.

    Ron Wagner - Contestar

    HI Ron, you are almost right. Or at least I did clip in the front part first and then just push the back while the back side was in between the home button connector and that two pins (the bracket on the “board”). As you said it just click in and you could hear. That was after I tried put the back first and then clip the front for 15 min.

    Martin Chudomel -

    This step needs to be explained better! The metal bracket needs to be slid in front of the metal connector near the battery and then clicked down. I've been stuck on this step as I kept trying to slide it between the metal connector and battery!!

    Whitney Hourigan - Contestar

    Updated the text a bit, while correct, it didn’t mention the metal tab in relation to the battery and cable connector. Hope this helps the next person!

    Sam Lionheart -

    And for this step felt like a life long career of tiddly winks had commenced

    Jake Baxter - Contestar

    It is confusing in reassembly, that the steps 10 and 11 are in the ascending order, because we follow the guide backwards (I suggest explaining the correct sequence: …, 12, 10, 11, and ??. ?? —> This is another point of confusion, the next step is to fit the screen back in, but because there are many (alternative) steps to open the phone, all the useful comments about closing it are spread among topics 3 to 9. There should have been a box (step) exclusively to the part of fitting the screen , so the explanation is more clear and comments are put all together. There are extremely useful comments here that should be edited in the guide (to make it even better).

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    I am having trouble connecting the home button connector to the phone cpu? Not sure why it's not staying connected but was wondering it there was any advice. I've tried for about 20 minutes just trying to line it up and press it down but no luck…

    Trayvon Banks - Contestar

    • Utiliza la parte plana de un spudger para levantar la parte delantera del soporte del cable de Touch ID sobre el conector del cable.

    • Si el soporte no esta alineado cuando al cerrar, necesitaras quitar el soporte y deslizarlo sobre el conector de cable otra vez para un encaje mejor.

    It seems like a couple of these steps are reassembly steps? I wish they would label them as such. This step and step 10 are for reassembly, and it's confusing.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Contestar

    See the information line on Step 9 that says this exact thing?

    Elliot Fleming - Contestar

    • Utiliza la punta de un spudger para hacer palanca y desconectar el conector de cable del boton de inicio.

    • Asegúrate de que estés separando el conector de cable de su enchufe y no estés haciendo palanca al enchufe. El enchufe esta en su propio cable que esta pegado y puede ser desconectado si no tienes cuidado.

    Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

    Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

    Keystone - Contestar

    Reassembly:

    The original part bends the bottom home button connector back on itself into a bracket you have to remove (not mentioned in later steps).

    That bracket has a bit of adhesive to keep the bottom connector in place.

    The replacement part does not come with a bracket, or additional adhesive, so the bottom connector flops around & can make reassembly a challenge. I found it was best to hold right edge of the bottom in place w/1 finger, and use a 2nd finger to slide the upper cable connector left to right and click it into place.

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    Also worth mentioning is that upon reassembly, make sure that the home button cable folds to the left (away from the side with the SIM card) as the front panel will not fit properly otherwise.

    Brian Riess - Contestar

    这个地方必须小心,我上次就把底部接口搞坏了,害我换个电池的同时还换了一个尾插

    Zhou Lin - Contestar

    • Una vez que el conector del botón home ha sido desconectado, tira de la pantalla con el cable del botón home fuera del chasis utilizando la parte superior del telefono como una bisagra.

    • Abre la pantalla en un angulo de 90º y asegúrala contra algo para mantenerla apoyada mientras trabajas en el telefono.

      • Agrega una bandita elastica para mantener la pantalla asegurada en su lugar mientras trabajas. Esto previene tension excesiva en los cables de pantalla.

      • Si no hay mas remedio, puedes utilizar una bebida enlatada sellada para detener la pantalla.

    maak een constructie waar de iPhone in valt en waarbij het scherm in een hoek van 90 graden kan worden gefixeerd, dan hoef je drie kabeltjes niet los te maken. Is mij heel goed gelukt .

    Joop Roos - Contestar

    Out of curiosity I decided to use google translate…here it is in English. “make a construction where the iPhone falls and the screen can be fixed at a 90 degree angle, you do not have to unlock three cables. I did very well.”

    Kelly Ann - Contestar

    • Quita los tornillos Phillips #000 de 1.6 mm del conector metalico de la bateria a la placa logica.

    I don't see why steps 14, 15, and 16 are even necessary. I was able to remove the scene without removing the battery (skipping these 3 steps)

    Luke Lin - Contestar

    See Jonathan Goldsmith's comment ;)

    Didier Daniel -

    Working on the phone without removing the battery will most likely damage the component. My OnePlus One runs extremely slow after working on it without removing the battery. I think it's a problem with the GPU, because the display was very slow to update the screen contents.

    Peter Pan - Contestar

    Pan is right. Not removing the battery means you will run the risk of shorting some circuits not meant to be connected, and thus can damage those components. This can happen very easily, and without you even knowing it. Additionally, the internal components of a digital device are not meant to be disconnected while having any amount of power applied(and even though your device may not even turn on because the battery is completely shot, there very likely will still be a small amount of power coming from the battery to the internal components of the device). Doing so will likely cause an overcurrent condition that will damage the components of the device.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Contestar

    Now my problem, however, is that the screws on this bracket do not seem to want to unscrew. :(

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Contestar

    Okay, the problem would seem to have been with the screwdriver that came with my iFixit battery "Fix kit". Tried another screwdriver, and no problems at all.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Contestar

    Phillips #000 provided with the iFixit repair kit does not fit the screws

    Vitaly Kirichenko - Contestar

    I agree the #000 Phillips driver didn't work. I happened to already have a #0 Phillips that did work much better.

    Bruce Peffley -

    Same problem here

    Mikkel Albrechtsen -

    The screwdriver that came with the kit worked fine for me when I applied pressure with my palm to the end of the driver and turned the driver with my forefinger and thumb

    Tom Gleason - Contestar

    The ifixit #000 works…if you put an uncomfortable amount of pressure on the driver. Yikes. Use a larger bit if you’ve got it.

    Chris Wiley - Contestar

    i damaged the bottom screw with the phillips00 ifixit screwdriver :-(

    Pierre - Contestar

    • Saca el soporte del conector metálico de la batería fuera del iPhone.

    Not clear to me why this and the next step are necessary for a screen replacement...

    Daniel Goldschmidt - Contestar

    Using the iFixit tweezers to remove the bracket caused a spark. I used the plastic spudger instead.

    Bryan Remely - Contestar

    Is this tutorial or the iPhone SE? The battery should be 1624mAh but these pictures go back and forth between showing 1510and 1560mAh. Why are pictures showing different batteries, and why isn't it showig the 1624mAh for the 5 SE?

    Someone Somewhere - Contestar

    After installing the New iPhone 5s Lightning Connector Replacement I noticed there was no foam on top of the new plug, leaving bare metal exposed. I cut a small piece of electricians tape to be placed on top of the new plug to keep it from coming in contact with the metal battery connector bracket

    Scott Nacke - Contestar

    • Utiliza la parte plana de un spudger para cuidadosamente hacer palanca a el conector de batería hacia fuera de su enchufe en la placa lógica.

    • Ten mucho cuidado de solo hacer palanca contra el conector de bateria y no en el enchufe en la placa logica. Si haces palanca contra en enchufe en la placa lógica o contra la placa lógica sí mismo, puedes dañar el conector o los componentes cercanos de forma permanente.

    pourquoi faire?

    Alexis Camper - Contestar

    Skip steps17-22. Just be extra careful and secure the screen. Less to go wrong the less you open.

    William Stein - Contestar

    Also order the headband magnifier. It really helps with the tiny components you are working with.

    William Stein - Contestar

    A way to skip step 17-22

    I unfolded as next step the display in a perpendicular way (so display unit and rest of the device in 90°) and fixed the display with an elastic band at an opened iPhone packaging box. Then I continued directly at step 23 with the removal of the battery without removing the display unit at all. Worked very well without any problems… and now I’m curious whether the new battery really powers the device for a longer time :-)

    Rolf Enderes - Contestar

    I also skipped the step of removing the dispaly, instead using a rubber band to secure the display to the iPhone box. Worked great, and avoided the hassle of disconnecting the display.

    Daniel Melchior - Contestar

    I skipped this step and I also removed my display. I don’t know what will happen in the future but there’s no problems till now...

    Ran Mika (Tshukimi Elune) - Contestar

    I didn’t realize that each of the photos contained different steps until later on, (the photos look very similar to each other in the thumbnails), and so I don’t think I removed the 2nd part of the battery attachment as its in the 2nd photo. I figured it out later, but only after step 20, which requires that the battery is fully disconnected before doing. Oops!

    Everything else went well though, and I’ve since reinstalled the battery, drained it, and recharged, and it seems to be fine. Will cross my fingers and hope I didn’t damage anything.

    Nancy Zan - Contestar

    If you do remove the display, it is helpful before removing the four diffferently sized screws to tape down a piece of masking tape, sticky side up, and remove them in a defined order, sticking them to the tape as you go. Then there’s no chance of mixing them up when you re-assemble.

    john lawn - Contestar

    • Quita los siguientes tornillos que aseguran el soporte de los conectores del panel frontal a la placa lógica:

      • Un tornillo Phillips #000 de 1.7 mm

      • Un tornillo Phillips #000 de 1.2 mm

      • Un tornillo Phillips #000 de 1.3 mm

      • Un tornillo Phillips #000 mas de 1.7 mm

        • Este tornillo de 1.7 mm suele no ser atraído por un destornillador magnetizado. Ten cuidado de no perderlo cuando lo quites.

      • Es especialmente importante de mantener un registro de tus tornillos en este paso para el reensamblaje. El uso accidental de un tornillo de 1.3 mm o uno de 1.77 mm en el agujero inferior derecho puede provocar daños en la placa lógica causando que el teléfono no inicie correctamente.

        • Ten cuidado de no apretar demasiado los tornillos y de no forzarlos. Si no caben fácilmente cuando los estas apretando, pueden que no sea del tamaño correcto.

    Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

    CLAUDE - Contestar

    Hi Claude,

    Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

    So, I was wondering:

    1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

    2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

    3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

    Thanks in advance.

    Regards,

    Cornel.

    corneliumusat -

    Can anyone answer if the blue strips on the crews indicate which screws they are? They are all so small it's hard to find the right lengths for each hole

    Ariel Drotter -

    Does anyone know if the blue strips on the screws indicate their length? I'm finding it very hard to distinguish the lengths

    Ariel Drotter -

    @Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

    iGuys -

    Hi Everyone,

    Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

    The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

    Hope this helps.

    Regards,

    Cornel.

    corneliumusat - Contestar

    The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

    RayBob - Contestar

    Upside-down masking tape also works well, especially when labelled with corresponding step for each bit of parts!

    W Fleming -

    i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

    William Boggs - Contestar

    The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

    If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

    Please change all the versions including this step.

    Louis Torres - Contestar

    I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

    lambdahindiii - Contestar

    I completely agree with lambdahindiii, skip steps 11 - 16 completely. You do have to be careful not to flip open the display, but it's manageable with some care.

    I will give disclaimer that I used 3.0x magnification with surgical loupes. Any kind of magnification will help. Also recommend using an LED head lamp for optimal illumination.

    wmlee1 -

    I'm going to upvote the suggestion to skip steps 11- 16 too.

    Some things to look out for:

    - Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

    - The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

    - To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

    Take your time and good luck all

    wilten -

    I agree. The steps to remove the display are unnecessary. I skipped these and had no issues.

    Matt Reier -

    On my phone it actually seems like one of the 1.7mm screws is non-magnetic (the other 3 screws are magnetic). Although this could be a botched repair job from a previous owner...

    I guess if it's intentional, it should be the top-right one, as that is closest to the compass IC.

    woods81 - Contestar

    You're right. The top right screw must be non-ferrous stainless. I've repaired tons of the5-5s and that screw is never magnetic.

    BJS -

    You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

    Drtofu -

    Apparently it is non magnetic so as not to interfere with the compass. The iPhone 6 has moved tis down to the bottom near the battery connector.

    Jack -

    I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

    shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

    what is the correct way?

    alexaamo91 - Contestar

    i had the 'blue screen of death' and here was my workaround:

    Apple logo then blue screen

    kgale4 -

    I was wondering exactly the same thing why we need to un-screw the screen? Anyway place the screws in the order they come and you should find no problems putting them back in right order.

    Also I found the screw driver comes with ifixit battery kit does not fit in the screws perfectly. Feeling a little large for these screws. Anyone else had the same experience?

    fredhdx - Contestar

    The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

    mnoivad - Contestar

    Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

    Pete H - Contestar

    I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

    Daylen - Contestar

    Putting the upper screws back in the bracket is a bit tricky--if you hold the screen at 90 degrees, the connector cables lift up the loose bracket, but if you lower the screen to allow the bracket to lay flat, you can't reach with a screw driver. Be very slow and patient and replace the upper left screw last (after the first three are tight)--these will hold down the bracket fairly well so you can aim the last (upper left) screw into the hole and push down as you tighten.

    bartonh - Contestar

    That is exactly how I did it; good hint. Thanks.

    Andre Silva -

    So I managed to loose the top right (non magnetic) screw. I saw it fall to the table, but it's gone. Wonder if it fell back into the phone, as there is a slight rattle sound when I shake it. Will there be any big surprises if I just reassemble without that screw?

    larserikkolden - Contestar

    If you keep the top steady these steps (17-22) could be skipped. That's how I did. Everything is ok.except screwdriver didn't undo upper one of the battery bracket I had to bend the bracket.

    Mehmet Hakan - Contestar

    I noticed that reassembling my device, if the metal bracket touch the hole of the 1.3mm screw the touch stopped working. I had to put a little piece of plastic between the hole and the bracket unable to put the screw in (or it would make contact between the hole and the bracket).

    Any suggestion?

    denis.g.94 - Contestar

    Hi Denis, could you be a bit more specific as to which metal bracket you are referring to please? also, where did you put the piece of plastic? Thank you.

    jamesmclachlan -

    Denis, could you be more specific please? Which metal bracket causes the problem and where did you put the piece of plastic?

    I have the same problem, (lost touch screen function).

    jamesmclachlan -

    Trying to get the screws into the holes and driving them in was extraordinarily challenging due in large part to their magnetic bond. Screws didn't want to leave the driver, once they were in they flew right back out as soon as the driver came within distance. To combat this, I suggest using a thin, clear tape (I used packing tape) cut into 4 strips and place each screw flat side down on one end of each strip of tape. Now you can easily maneuver and securely hold the screws into their holes as the driver pierces the tape easily screwing them in without losing them or your mind. Also, fridge magnets are good to retrieve screws that have fallen into iPhone's nooks and crannies, likewise from carpeting.

    James Lee - Contestar

    After aligning the bracket over the screw holes, I used the tweezers to pick the screw on its head and position it in the hole. Then, it was not difficult to use the screwdriver to fasten it.

    Andre Silva -

    If I messed up the screw placement, can it be redone and fixed by putting the screws back in prober order?

    Colm Noone - Contestar

    Like James Lee (above), I found reinserting the tiny screws quite difficult because the magnetic screwdriver would pull them out, with the screw adhering to the screwdriver at odd angles. What worked was to insert a screw with tweezers, then START the screw using the non-magnetic plastic pointy tool while holding down the plate so the screw could turn easily. Once the screw was started, I tightened it with the screwdriver.

    Sandy Trevor - Contestar

    Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!..

    yaterbob - Contestar

    The iFixit Kit I bought does NOT have the right screw driver to remove these screws. Neither phillips screwdrivers work - the point is much too sharp and does not grip the screw at all. Not happy with this purchase right now.

    Richard - Contestar

    Color coding the screw heads is an excellent idea. I used red for red - green for green - and black for orange - left the yellow one uncolored. Did a screen capture and labeled it to avoid confusion.

    Leonard - Contestar

    Also color a small area around the screws on the cable bracket. Makes it real easy to see which screw goes where.

    Leonard -

    I found out that you don’t need the 1.7mm screw. The shorter one will do and I don’t lose bluetooth.

    patjmccarthy - Contestar

    I used colored sharpies to keep track of the screws. I color coded the screw heads and around their holes. Worked like a charm.

    Brigham Okano - Contestar

    I managed to loose the socket of the green screw. Apparently, during my second disassembly of my iPhone the socket (which appears to be screwed in as well) came loose without me noticiing it and promptly vanished later on in the process, never to be seen again. The iPhone does seem to work without it, but still, I’d advise checking that they are still in place when you unmount the metal shield.

    Sven Siggelkow - Contestar

    Erroneamente ho sbagliato la combinazione delle viti e mi si è danneggiata l’iPhone.. che parte devo cambiare ?

    garino1990 - Contestar

    You do not actually have to remove the screen to replace the battery. Just tilt up the screen at a 60 degree angle from the phone and tape it open or have someone hold it up. That way you don’t have to flex the screen wires or inadvertently damage anything.

    Imre Treufeld - Contestar

    • Saca el soporte de los conectores del panel frontal fuera de la placa lógica.

    At my iPhone 5s this part is missing!

    Michael Schöttner - Contestar

    • Usa un spudger o una uña para desconectar la cámara frontal y el cable del sensor.

    The flat end of the spudger works great to position and press down on the connectors during reassembly.

    Magnus Dalen - Contestar

    I did not try the spudger (but I think I should have), because this cable was the most difficult to me. It kept flipping (not aligning with the socket) and with one hand holding the screen and the other trying to connect was very difficult .

    Andre Silva -

    • Mientras sostienes el panel frontal, desconecta el conector del cable del LCD.

    • Cuando vuelvas a armar tu teléfono, el cable LCD puede salirse del conector. Esto puede ocasionar líneas blancas o una pantalla en blanco al volver a encender su teléfono. Si eso sucede, simplemente vuelve a conectar el cable y enciende tu teléfono. La mejor forma de encender y apagar su teléfono es desconectar y volver a conectar la batería.

    When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Contestar

    After some 4 seconds stripes start to appear and at the bottom a black band of some 3 mm horizontally over the screen. I've restarted, but it keeps showing a clean screen and then after a while the stripes and band start coming through. Is that a battery issue? And when I slide up the light intensity button, the screen starts shivering.

    Jules JUSTE - Contestar

    And in my wife’s samsung replacing a battery is so easy. I’ve wasted a whole evening and now have broken cables. I get to buy a new screen and no phone for a couple of days. What $@$* is Apple pullig on us here? :(

    Jules JUSTE - Contestar

    Because Apple wants you to just buy a new phone instead of replacing parts.

    Bryan Remely -

    No doubt about that.

    Bryan Thompson - Contestar

    What can I do

    i tried to remove the LCD CABLE WITH A METAL SCISSOR.

    NOW IT IS NOT WORKING.

    HOW TO REPLACE IT. CAN ANYONE HELP IN THAT

    Faheem Sameer - Contestar

    At the bottom and top are some hardly noticeable white stripes and an after reconnecting the cables 3 times with no difference I connected the old screen again. There were no stripes there… The cables on the new screen don’t look damaged. I’ve repaired other phone screens and I think my display has an issue… what should I do now?

    fele felix - Contestar

    So what happens if you don’t disconnect the battery before dis/reconnecting the LCD connector? Can you damage something irreversibly? I have what looks like a bad display ertifacts, lines, overall bustedness…) and am not sure if because I didn’t disconnect the battery…. I was following the lady in the video instead of the guide like an idiot…. She didn’t disconnect the battery. :P

    Tom - Contestar

    • Finalmente, desconecta el conector de cable del digitalizador.

    When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

    Pete H - Contestar

    I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

    ilsedorec - Contestar

    pure genius, this works

    Oliver Markl -

    Had to try 4 times until I finally got it right, I would say that less than 80° works well for this step, just take your time and be patient with the screws

    hermosillaignacio - Contestar

    It should be noted somewhere around these steps that all but one of these connections get removed.

    The connection that is left goes to the Power Button, the Mute Switch, and the Volume Buttons. This connection is on the bottom left, below the LCD power connection.

    This connector was not supposed to be removed, and I removed all of them as a force of habit.

    Once removed, it seems I removed part of the other half of the connector along with the first half.

    This has left my customer's iPhone functional, but none of the buttons, besides Home Button/TouchID), work.

    In the long run, this is not a huge issue, as AssistiveTouch can emulate physical button presses. I just figured it should be noted.

    Mikereilly2009 - Contestar

    Using the tool from the opposite side from what is shown here was many times easier (considering I had the front panel attach to a box with the rubber band trick)

    David - Contestar

    Agree, did the same thing.

    Andre Silva -

    After completing the battery replacement, when I turned the phone back on everything worked right except, the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen. Does anyone know how I can fix this???

    Melissa - Contestar

    After I replaced my battery, I turned the phone back on and everything worked except the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen now. Does anyone know what I did wrong??? I do I fix this???

    Melissa - Contestar

    after battery replacing the Volume and Sleep buttons don’t work anymore. What I did wrong and what I can do to resolve the problem?

    Thanks

    Nicola - Contestar

    Step one is recheck your connections. If those are all solid, did you need to pry the battery up to remove it? It’s possible that the prying damaged the cables. If you have photos, share them on our Answers Forum, and you might get some better, more specific help!

    Sam Lionheart -

    • Quita el ensamblaje del panel frontal fuera de la caja trasera.

    I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

    I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

    For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

    As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.

    IMG LINK:

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1608...

    Oscar Vera - Contestar

    Odd..my Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

    Bob smith -

    Dear Oscar,

    I am very interested in your comment but the photo is not available any more. Could you send the updated link?

    Thank you very much,

    Alex

    Alex -

    The link to your photo is still not available. I do not understand which screw is being referred to associated with the fingerprint sensor.

    Toby Parnell -

    To anybody wondering what the picture was, Internet Archive saved it. You can find it here: https://web.archive.org/web/201606120038...

    It’s also the same picture as the 2nd picture in Step 23.

    Bryan Remely -

    Bryan Remely thank you so much. It’s comment threads like this and contributors like you that make the internet such a valuable tool.

    WILL D -

    why cant u disconnect the lcd and just put the new one in reverse from step 16? wgy to step 32

    Cameron Shelley - Contestar

    When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Contestar

    thanks for that... I didn't even notice it until I saw your comment.

    Brian Hayes -

    I’m completely confused about removing the connectors to the screen. It looks to me as though the battery could come out with the screen still attached. How am I wrong?

    Lance - Contestar

    • Desenrosca el tornillo de sujeción Phillips #000 que asegura el cable del botón de inicio.

    • El tornillo de sujeción se sujeta al cable botón de inicio por un soporte elástico de contacto. Durante el reensamblaje, asegúrate de que el contacto esté en la orientación correcta, en el lado del tornillo más cercano a la pantalla LCD.

    • Si tu pieza de repuesto no tiene este tornillo de sujeción y el contacto de soporte elástico, necesitarás transferirlos al nuevo cable.

    The tiny "captive spring" came off of the back of the screw and I struggled to get it to go back on. I ended up placing the spring over the hole where the screw goes in, with the holes lined up then putting the screw through both.

    Also, the replacement screen I received from ifixit.com was slightly different than the original. The small metal tab where this screw goes in was not slightly bent downward like the original. It didnt make any difference. The screw went back in as normal.

    Nathan - Contestar

    Hi,

    The home button doesn't work ?

    Help

    Sultan - Contestar

    BE CAREFUL HERE.

    This so called 'captive' screw is not very captive at all and I have nearly lost it twice now.

    If it does fall out, look closely at the pictures to figure out the orientation of the grounding finger.

    Ben - Contestar

    Two things - As mentioned, the replacement screen is a bit different. Mine had a screw where an empty hole should have been for the "captive screw".. a bit confusing at first. Just remove it and carry on.

    Second, if you're an occasional nunce like me, you might be confused by the little tab/prong/raised guy next to the screw. After you've screwed the "captive screw" in, that thing should be hovering above it/the metal plate of the screen, and should look just like the removal picture.

    easleyjs - Contestar

    Out of curiosity, what happens if the "spring contact backing" is not in the correct orientation?

    I re-assembled my phone without paying any attention to this, and it seems to work OK... maybe I coincidentally got it right without trying. What would happen if the contact was facing the wrong way?

    wilsonmichaelpatrick - Contestar

    Hi Help !!! The home buton doesn't work anymore !

    Chris91177 - Contestar

    what if you lose the spring contact. does the phone work without it? if not, where can I find a spring contact?

    Andreas Kouroupis - Contestar

    I have this same problem. I lost mine but found the screw where can I order one from?

    kristlewomack -

    I also have this problem, do any home buttons come with this piece?

    viarengo1 -

    Hello. I lost the little 'spring clip'. My phone is working erratically. Could that be anything to do with the cip not being in place? Thanks

    ggough60 - Contestar

    I am pretty sure I had replaced the captive spring wrong (didn't see the second image until I have completed the project). But the phone seems to have a perfectly working home button now.

    Alan Kang - Contestar

    This screw/spring combo fell off right before reassembling. Good luck and found the screw again. So my advice: Put a tape around the screw/spring or dismount them from the cable and put them in a safe place. The spare screw delivered with the display was too short.

    Tom Vee - Contestar

    I thought I lost the spring contact, but it actually just got rotated under the section of cable that the captive screw is attached to. The spring contact should be "captive" at the same place the screw is so it should'nt get lost too easily.

    Anand Varma - Contestar

    On the phone I worked on, the screw wouldn’t separate from the “captive spring.” LEAVE IT! It’s more trouble than it’s worth to remove it, Just reuse the screw it will make the re-install on the new screw much easier. Also use the tweezers to hold the spring in the correct orientation as you screw it back on.

    Benjamin Finley - Contestar

    During reassembly, I wasn’t sure wether the spring contact backing was beneath or above the cable. It is hard to see in the 2nd image in step 23.

    But in step 24 the 2nd image shows that the spring contact backing is right under the cable.

    So the spring contact backing goes first, then the cable and then of course the screw.

    Wolfgang Bauer - Contestar

    For the life of me, I cannot get this screw out. I have been using the same screw driver and nothing has been working.

    Warren Binder - Contestar

    I think there is one step missing here which shows a picture with the correct position of the ‘spring contact backing’. Consider the part which has a hole in the middle: the flat part is sided to top, making the round part sided to bottom. This is a clear picture of the ‘spring contact backing’: http://www.icellulartech.com/iphone-5s-h... (if the link is broken by the time you see it, type the name in Google).

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    I had a problem when reassembling, I removed this little screw and the spring contact from my original screen to put them in the new one, but the new one had already its own screw, soI just removed it and tried to put the screw from my original screen into the new one but it didn’t work, and the worst thing of all is that I lost the screw that came with the new screen and that’s the only one that works.

    Elías Eduardo Reyes Vázquez - Contestar

    May seem silly to say this…. however it might prevent some confusion for others.

    my replacement screen had a screw that needed to be removed in order for the captive screw and home button cable to be secured.

    Dean Allan Land - Contestar

    • Dobla el cable del botón de inicio hacia abajo, fuera del camino del soporte del botón de inicio.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Retira los dos tornillos Phillips # 000 de 1,4 mm del soporte del botón de inicio.

    Screws are stuck...! no way that I can unscrew them :-(

    Sumit Bhatnagar - Contestar

    I had this issue, screws were so tight my screwdriver was starting to strip them. I managed to get one side off by applying massive pressure. I then wiggled the plate around to loosen the other side.

    mrnoxious -

    Hi every body! I would know much pressure the iphone 5s 's lcd can resist approximately !!? Have you ever stand on it?this happend for me , and in some positions under the direct sun light when the screen is ON , it seems that there is some pits on lcd ! ;-( please help ! If you had the same case! Help Thank You***

    Bryan - Contestar

    I could not get a phillips #000 to release these, but a phillips #00 did the trick perfectly. South African version of the phone, if that makes a difference.

    Andrew - Contestar

    these are the tightest screws I've ever seen in my life. Tried applying massive pressure and just stripped the screws. Not sure what to do now

    Bob Mcroy - Contestar

    Use the #00 Philips on these screws

    leeprobert - Contestar

    Went and bought a #00 when the #000 didnt work. Still no luck. About to lose my mind with frustration.

    Mike Manning - Contestar

    I could not get the 000 or the 00 to work, therefore I tried a #1 flat head from the kit and it worked like a charm.

    Sean O'Donohoe - Contestar

    Sometimes just switching to another screwdriver might help. I noticed that the screwdrivers you often get with displays assemblies are just crap. Invest in a good one.

    Didier Daniel - Contestar

    I was successful by using a 1.5 Phillips screwdriver head from a Stronger toolkit TK-LA40-38PCS

    Elaine Palmer - Contestar

    Glad I’m not the only one I guess. Using insane pressure for such small parts I was able to get the one not originally covered by the cable out. Then the trick of wiggling the bracket loosened the other one which was somewhat stripped by my earlier attempts with 00 and 000 Phillips. What a scare

    Bill Pennock - Contestar

    I had success using the J000 screw from the iFixit Pro kit

    Kalin Fetvadjiev - Contestar

    Both of the screws have blue loc-tite on them. Best to make sure you have the right screw driver for the job. Also, if you have the “iopener”, you can apply a little “heat”. That will loosen up the loc-tite.

    Dean Allan Land - Contestar

    • Retira el soporte del botón de inicio del ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    For those having problems transferring their home button to the new display assembly: When installing the home button into the new display assembly I had the problem that the bracket kept the button "pressed down" because the button did not sink into the front panel completely. After removing the home button and reassuring that there was no dust or similar particles preventing the home button from sitting correctly, I still had to push gently to get the home button into the correct position.

    larscmueller - Contestar

    • Inserta la punta de un spudger debajo del conjunto que conforma el botón de inicio.

    • El cable del botón de inicio está fijado con un adhesivo suave.

    • Suavemente, trabaja el spudger debajo del cable para separar el cable del botón de inicio del conjunto del panel frontal.

    • No retires el botón de inicio, ya que todavía está conectado al conjunto del panel frontal.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Si es necesario, retira la cinta sobre el botón de inicio en la parte frontal del ensamblaje del panel frontal agrietado.

    • Empuja suavemente la esquina superior izquierda del botón de inicio hacia arriba lejos del panel frontal.

    • No presiones el botón de inicio totalmente, sólo tiene que obtener una esquina libre, por lo que se puede levantar con un spudger.

    • Esta membrana es muy delgada. Si sientes que vas a romper el botón, aplica calor y vuelve a intentarlo.

    Agregar Comentario

    • Retira el botón de inicio el resto del sistema fuera de la pantalla, haciendo palanca suavemente con un spudger.

    DO NOT skip this step, or you will damage the very gentle rubber hold around the home button, and that may result in a broken home button.

    Addison Rasmussen - Contestar

    • Retira el conjunto del botón de inicio del panel frontal.

    Take a moment to clean any crud from the perimeter of the home button itself BEFORE reinstalling…

    finnik2d - Contestar

    Take a moment to clean off any crud from around the perimeter ring of the home button. Use a sewing needle for its sharpness to CAREFULLY pick away any debris. Makes a clean assembly for when re-assembling the button back into a new display module.

    finnik2d - Contestar

    • El ensamblaje de la pantalla permanece.

    • Si tu conjunto de pantalla de reemplazo carece de componentes que todavía están en el ensamblaje que acaba de retirar, sigue esta guía para transferirlos a la nueva pieza.

    • Si tu conjunto de la pantalla de reemplazo viene con alguna película protectora de plástico que no se ve en la pantalla original, asegúrate de quitarla antes de comenzar el montaje.

    It would be helpful if at this step, it hyperlinked to the steps needed to transfer the old camera/speaker assembly to the new piece. I had to hunt around for it, and I can imagine some people who don't have a lot of experience with these kinds of things just missing the fact entirely and assembling their phone without the camera!

    erik - Contestar

    Guía perfecta. Muy completa y concisa en todo momento. Sin duda un gran post en el que se explica correctamente y muy detalladamente los pasos a seguir para cambiar la pantalla del iPhone 5s. Además las imagenes y el vídeo están en muy buena calidad, sin olvidar, y no menos importante, las herramientas que necesitas para el procedimiento del cambio. Por poner una pega, solo falta que la guía estuviese en Español. Por lo demás está perfecta y muy bien redactada. 9.5/10

    Fernando Exposito Gonzalez - Contestar

    I completed the entire reassembly process. but the top part of the display isn't going in. after re assembly the display is not perfectly flat

    Pujan Doshi - Contestar

    I had a problem where after installing the new display assembly from iFixit (which included new front facing camera and sensor cables) my front facing mic and ambient sensor were not working. I could not talk on speakerphone or to Siri and Auto-brightness stopped working. From some of the forums it seems there is some slight difference between the 5S and SE assemblies and iFixit is selling the same one for both. I went through three replacements from iFixit, all with the exact same problem. I finally fixed it my transferring the front camera and sensor cables from my old (original) assembly to the new one from iFixit. Everything works again. If you have the same problem, I would transfer the Front Facing Camera and Sensor Cable before going through the hassle of getting replacements.

    lukecparr - Contestar

    reset all setting after you change the display.

    更换好屏幕组件以后可能会有一定几率出现屏幕显示正常但背光闪烁,重置所有设置以后一般都可以消失。

    Ralph Deng - Contestar

Conclusión

Para volver a montar el dispositivo, siga estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Compare su parte de reemplazo a la parte oríginal. Tal vez tendrá que transferir algunos componentes o eliminar adhesivo antes de instalar. Ayude la tierra y lleve su residuos electrónicos a un reciclador certificado.

Reparación le salió mal? Busque nuestro Foro de respuestas para soluciones y mas ayuda.

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Excellent guide, many thanks to the author and commenters. I replaced the rear facing camera at the same time and had no issues with parts or tools.

Agree with the comment from Nathan for Step 17 to be careful not to displace the captive spring, it would have slipped away from me if I had not read the comment. Tricky to manouvere that part.

Get the magnetic mat, makes things a lot easier. Thanks again.

Matt - Contestar

It would be helpful if the guide used tools that were listed as required when purchasing the replacement screen. When I ordered the screen, the site suggested the iopener, which i purchased. It was not involved in the repair though the iclack tool was referenced.

lkboak - Contestar

Hi, i have problem with my earpiece speaker after i reassemble my screen, it doesn't work and i should talk with the speaker, why it happen and what should i do???

Tanks.

Ali Sakhtianchi - Contestar

This same thing happened to me. I had to take the front camera/sensor assembly out of my old device and use it with the new display assembly. Thankfully that part wasn't damaged or I would have been screwed.

Jorden -

I think ifixit have miss-drawn the screws for the LCD Plate. I believe the two motherboard (lower/bottom) screws should be the short ones, and the "red screws" should go at the top. Only the bottom 2 go into the PCB, the others go into pillars. Please can someone check this. As putting the 1.7mm in the Bottom Left Corner is a bad idea. it should be the 1.3mmm

russ - Contestar

I can Confirm the above. There are two known models of iphone 5S, and 5C, and here in Australia most of these devices, the two bottom screws are the shortest, the top right is non magnetic (it sits next to the compass ic), which only leaves one remaining. If you get them out of order, just remember shortest at bottom, non magnetic top right.

In saying this if you are in Australia, we can offer a mail in service to repair the damage using the wrong screws can cause. Contact me on benduffy@itzcomputers.com.au for more info on this.

If you are in other parts of the world, I know others that can also fix this that are likely closer to you.

Ben Duffy - Contestar

Great guide. iPhone 5S worked great for about 24 hours after screen replacement, however now won't charge. Screen shows the low battery symbol and doesn't charge up. When lightning connector is unplugged it shows the low battery symbol along with the "connect power to lightning" symbol so it recognizes that a charger is attached. Any advice? I'm not positive, but I think it did charge at least somewhat after the screen replacement. Thanks!

mark - Contestar

Hi! have the same problem. Any luck fixing it?

MJ -

replace the battery and make sure the battery ribbon cable is installed correctly

heaneyboy00 -

This guide is extremely accurate. I had no problems with the install or the parts. I will continue using ifixit for all my repair needs.

gigantorpdx - Contestar

I replaced this screen and I'm pretty confident I got the screws in the correct position.

Now my battery doesn't even last a full day. My phone usage hasn't changed. The phone is only 4 months old. Is it possible that I damaged something or would putting the screws in the wrong place cause this?

Thanks.

Pete - Contestar

Do you know why the guide is missing the ear speaker and back plate installation slides? I knew how to take it apart but was guiding someone for training and was missing the earpiece

dpminnetonka - Contestar

The guide worked perfectly for me. I went from a non responsive screen to one that works 95%. Now my issue for some reason are letters U, H, J, and the microphone key are not responsive. All other areas work on the screen. Where do I go from here? All parts came from iFixit but I went with the refurbished screen. Is this a screen issue or an error on my part with the re-connection?

ucfsae81 - Contestar

Thank you for making this guide. It is an excellent step-by-step solution for the most common problem when it comes to iPhones. I will continue to use iFixit repair guides as my go-to source for my Computer and Phone Repair business.

Mitch - Contestar

When reassembling your iPhone, make sure you remove the protective film from the new screen before snapping the phone back together. I had a perfectly functional repaired phone however when I went to remove the film, I found that some parts of it were stuck behind the screen.

Being anal about my repair work (this was for my wife's phone) I thought I would simply pop it back open and remove the remnants of the protective film. Although I was very careful re-opening the phone, I must have pulled a fraction of an inch too far and ended up ripping both the screen and home button ribbon cables.

Much swearing ensued. It was a very expensive lesson (ended up being $174 CDN after shipping and exchange), and if you plan on doing more than one phone, I would recommend getting the iSclack.

As to the comment about why they offer the suction cup option: I was able to open the phone with the broken screen fine, and the previous iPhone didn't have the touch id cable which meant you had a bit more leeway when opening.

bob - Contestar

I wonder if their replacement Display Assemblies might come with non-functional components? The actual display replacement went smoothly, but neither the earpiece speaker or the front-facing camera worked. After opening and re-seating connectors several times, I replaced the earpiece in the newly purchased iFixit assembly with the one from the broken display assembly - and it now works! I'm contemplating doing the same with the camera, but the reason that I paid for the entire assembly was so that I did not have to do this. I have seen this issue in several other comments, and wonder if this is a systemic problem with their products, and wonder what the quality control process is?

joe - Contestar

To anybody that needs to replace just the screen/glass, I would recommend finding a kit that includes the screen, glass, digitizer, home button and front camera assembly all in one as it makes it MUCH easier than transferring the parts over. I got mine on ebay from a reputable seller since I could not find one on amazon.

Cameron - Contestar

When installing the replacement screen...do not "hunt" around for the logic board's LCD/Digitizer connections w/ the replacement screen's connectors. This easily results in deforming the connectors on the board, which kills the phone.

Matt H - Contestar

Finally, followed your guide and replace my iphone 5s display.

Note: There seems to be a discrepancy in step 8. The **orientation** of metal bracket covering the home button cable is flipped between this guide and the accompanying video. I think the video got the correct orientation. Thanks.

Sam - Contestar

This is a super , detailed, instructive, video.I nearly started to split my iPhone 5S just to try out the procedure.

Gwen is one of my favorite hosts on iFixit, very thorough, well spoken and as an extra plus very charming.

Can't wait for the iPhone 5SE split, because I'v decided that to be my next iphone. Like the housing moore than the" gigantophones"

Steffen Gyhrs - Contestar

Hi! My Iphone won't charge after this. Does anyone know why? Everything else works perfectly but i haven't have the chance too check it before my battery went dead, and won't charge back up.. please help

MJ - Contestar

Niece's iPhone is fixed, she had a cracked screen. This wasn't my first iPhone repair, but it was my first 5s repair. The guide was a breeze, thanks Walter Galan!

Jessica - Contestar

Excellent step by step, completed the install twice, first run broke the new screen due to not lining up the top of the display correctly. Second time was the charm. iSclack made the disassembly a breeze highly recommend it.

Jason Meyer - Contestar

Very helpful guide. The first ever Phone repair I have done and works perfectly. Have been doing Iphone repairs for about 4 months now and can do most of the screen replacements thanks to IFixit.

Thanks Guys!

Charlie Stewart - Contestar

Hi, how to replace just the glass screen? Does anybody know this? Tia, Chris

Ralph - Contestar

From the video I've seen, it isn't work all the extra work. Just replace the screen + digitizer.

woodworkerfella -

Successfully completed this guide. I have touch id home button, so transferred it from the old broken front assembly to the new one successfully. All working as expected again.

Tim Ellison - Contestar

if anyone could help me after following the guide the phone just has a black screen my computer recognizes it but it doesnt vibrate or make any noise at all .

Michael B Watkins - Contestar

replaced screen ok turns on ok but wont swipe to unlock any suggestions

angeline donnelly - Contestar

More than likely the digitizer cable isn't seated fully. This will prevent any touch capabilities. It's the last one when removing and the first one when connecting.

Denver Wade -

Very good guide, no problems at all in doing so all by myself and it was the first time I opened up a phone so, thanks!

marcocopeta - Contestar

Thank you! Everything works perfectly! Very good guide.

Treizias - Contestar

I phone 5s. After replacing the screen I turn the phone on. The initial brightness was normal while the"apple" logo was running. After that the screen went gray, not sufficiently lit, and stay gray, Any advice?

Sanevich - Contestar

You may have not connected the screen cable in good enough. I suggest re connecting the screen cable and see if that helps.

John Maig -

The "ifixit"was correct. I found that the LCD shield plate cable was broken. I think this is the problem. I order a new flex with the front camera and a shield. hopefully it will work. The advise was from-" iRobot Killer" Thank you

Sanevich - Contestar

this guide leaves out how to remove the proximity sensor assembly which is critical to this repair. great article otherwise, but unfortunately incomplete

Connor Murphy - Contestar

Hey Connor! This is a guide for a complete assembly part, if you want to strip your display down, follow this slightly longer front panel replacement guide. =)

Sam Lionheart -

I was able to repair my son's iPhone 5s with a cracked display using the iFixit complete display kit and the instructions provided. ifixit rocks! Please stay forever!

Jack Shaffer - Contestar

great guide well illustrated and good zoom in for the pictures

gery blackwood - Contestar

I phone 5s. I have replaced The complete LCD display screen with home button, front camera, ear speaker. Every thing is OK with the exception of the SPEAKER, it does not working. What could be wrong?

Thank you

Leonid Sanevich

Sanevich - Contestar

Great guide, but after my repair, I noticed that my earpiece speaker is faulty... I can hear sounds but it is weak. I tried to raise the volume but it is already max. So I have bought a new earpiece speaker and it does the same thing... Can someone help me? Thanks.

cloud181 - Contestar

if you touched the little gold springs or the contact pads then the grease off of your fingers could be causing a poor contact. Try cleaning both with an appropriate solvent such as IPS or electrical solvent cleaner from maplin. Do this carefully by spraying some solvent onto the end of a cotton wool bud, don't spray anywhere near the phone!

Peter Machin -

PLEASE DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN YOUR SCREWS DURING THE REINSTALL! I found my screen glitching out and showing gray bars when I snapped everything together. The screen and ribbons are extremely sensitive, so please do not overtighten. If you find yourself experiencing a glitchy screen or grey bars after the install, unscew each screw and see if it fixs the problem. If it doesnt continue working backwards unscrewing the screws (especially with the screen ribbons) and playing with the screen. If you do notice that unscrewing a screw fixs the problem, try loosening other screws slightly and lightly screw in the remaining screws. During this process, at times the scree would only work at an angle of 20/30 degress from the battery. Take your time and be patient. Good Luck!

jacob - Contestar

Great description, everything worked fine but the new display by ifixit.com does not perform like the old apple (1136 × 640 Pixel, 326 ppi), looks more like a toy for children. Does anybody have the same problem? Thanks for your help!

derkritiker - Contestar

Dear Support Team,

Thanks for your quick help. The new display you sent me for free does perform like the original apple display.

Best greetings

derkritiker -

awesome guide easy to follow and very detailed, thanks!

mathew - Contestar

Hi, originally I followed a video guide which wasn't very detailed. The first time I replaced my screen it worked, but I had to take apart again to fix the power button. Second time around, I get a completely black screen. I read this guide and replaced all the screws in the correct spots. Still just a black screen. Is this a problem with the LCD and should I buy a whole new screen? Or what else might cause it to be completely black? The phone rings when I call etc.

Bonny Lea - Contestar

Did you disconnect the battery before disconnecting the display cables? If you skipped the battery step, you likely have a blown backlight circuit. You can confirm by shining a bright flashlight directly onto the display while turning on the phone—if you can faintly see graphics/text on the display but it just isn't lighting up, that's a blown backlight circuit and you'll need a skilled microsolderer to fix it. If not that, it could simply be a disconnected cable or a faulty display—open the phone back up and reseat the display connectors, and/or try a different display. For more detailed help, run a search or drop a post in our Answers forum. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Managed to replace the screen of my only working phone (:

Thanks for the detailed help!

Igor Schoevaart - Contestar

Well, first complete screen replacement went exactly as the guide showed. I used a hair dryer instead of an iOpener for the adhesive, worked like a charm.

lavudyar - Contestar

Dsiplay is working, transferred Home-Button ist working, the Power-Button is working, Charging is workind

But I’m not able to enter my Code by Using my Finger.

Any Ideas?

Baumgardt1 - Contestar

After Replacement the Touch doenst work.

Charging - ok

Display-Graphics - ok

Homebutton - ok

Powerbutton - ok

enter the Code with my finger on the screen or swipe the “power off” Option - fail

any Ideas?

Baumgardt1 - Contestar

Same problem here. Everything working fine except for touchscreen.

Any solutions?

Jikolo -

@jikolo—Most likely culprit is the digitizer connector isn’t fully seated. Open the phone back up (remembering to watch out for that home button cable and disconnect the battery) and carefully reseat the connector. If that doesn’t do it, check the connector socket under a magnifying glass and look for dust or bent pins. Other possibilities are a torn/damaged ribbon cable or a faulty display, which you can test by swapping in a known good display. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Very nice guide. Display is working great, transferred Home Button as guide stated and is working fine also. I also replaced the battery which caused the display to separate.

Edward Arnold - Contestar

Completed with no issues and everything worked afterwards. I had been procrastinating doing the 5s but I finally sat down and went through using this guide. The difficulty listed is spot on… moderate. It took a lot of patience and concentration but now that I’ve done is once I’m pretty sure I could do it again in about 20 minutes.

Used 3 spudgers and a suction cup method. The front is a tight fit (both separating it and putting it back together). But just be patient, once you get one tool in between the front and the case it’s pretty easy from there (just go slow).

Jere - Contestar

I need a new digitiser ribbon the one with the square stick pad on as mine snapped in 2 when my phone fell off my bed where can I buy the new or even recon ribbon for iPhone 5s any info please contact me at daveprest80@yahoo.co.uk everthing else was working fine and the backlight still works as I can see the light behind the screen but the cable/ribbon that comes from that square sticky patch to the connector on the logic board is severed in two so i’m hoping it possible to buy the ribbon as I only had the phone a week when this happened but it’s connected to my iCloud and the fingerprint sensor worked it simply fell off my bed hit the floor and screen went black when I opened it I noticed the ribbon was snapped so need to find a replacement I don’t suppose they use the same cable in any other models do they as I have a 6 and a 4 that I could scavenge from any help or info is greatly appreciated thanks everyone

daveprest80 - Contestar

Excellent guide! I’ve used it successfully twice now since I’m really good a cracking phone screens :)

elyze - Contestar

Habe es dank der sehr detailierten Anleitung geschafft! Leider ist mir jedoch ganz zum Schluss beim Einpressen des Displays im oberen rechten Eck das Glas gesprungen, weil das Aluminium-Gehäuse deformiert war und ich dieses im Vorfeld zu wenig begradigt habe.

Was mir noch auffiel war, dass der Touchscreen vor dem Tausch und auch danach nicht funktionierte, eventuell hat das Gerät beim Sturz gröbere Schäden davongetragen. Ich werde das Gerät nun entsorgen.

Felix Oberascher - Contestar

whats the difference between original iphone 5s display and copy of original display ? Aren’t the display are same ?

shyam kc - Contestar

I have used this guide 3x and it has always helped me. THANK YOU!

g3houdini - Contestar

Can anyone please help…..

I have replaced the Digitizer/lcd assembly, I have replaced the battery and also the Lightning connector.

I have followed the guides for all three repairs and now the phone is just bootlooping to the white screen with black Apple logo…

Any ideas??

nickpalumboculver - Contestar

Hi guys, may I ask you community, something? I bought two replacement displays for my iPhone 5S. A black and a white one. I noticed that the two screens have some issues. The two of them are less sensitive than the original displays and have less deep colors. And they seem to be less sharp, almost washed out sometimes. I noticed that I need to press slightly harder on the display for it to recognize my inputs and if I use a pen with rubber tip, it isn’t recognized at all.

Alessandro Regina - Contestar

This guide is very well written and detailed. Thank you to the creator.

I followed it to the letter and found no issues to replace the screen on our iPhone 5s.

I did find a problem with the replacement screen. It fits perfectly, but it doesn’t display properly. The backlight turn on, there are some squares on the screen, but no proper images. No Apple logo at boot. It seems to be an issue with the screen, because putting back the busted screen, it displays fine.

This is proof that this guide is great. I replaced the screen twice ;) no hiccups.

Carlos Estevez - Contestar

“After Replacement the Touch doens’t work” … “Most likely culprit is the digitizer connector isn’t fully seated.”…

I want to confirm this. Purchased a $20 Brinonac screen replacement from Amazon (included nice tools BTW). Upon reassembly, the middle half of the screen had an odd brightness and touch wouldn’t work there. I could not enter my pass code. Figured this cheap screen replacement was defective. After doing more research on fixit, I found this tip on a different iPhone display assembly instruction: “When seating the digitizer connector, don’t press it in from the middle. Press in one end, then the other.” Took phone apart. Reseated connector per new instructions. Everything good as new!

Daryl - Contestar

I think this guide is very good, but what makes it excellent are the comments beneath each step. There were so many useful comments adding more explanation (and some of them even correcting misleading guidance) that reading all of them was essential to me having a great experience doing a successful fix in my first time. I suggest the authors to make a review of the guide to edit in some of these key comments (I know that suggesting to others is easy, but I also spent time commenting on every step which I thought I had something to contribute). Thanks for the guide.

Andre Silva - Contestar

I managed to replace my screen successfully but the phone worked for just one day and now it’s asking me to connect to itunes but it won’t restore either.

John Mohdin - Contestar

Excellent guide, thank you! I was able to complete my first hardware repair with no issues, and the Touch ID still works great. This will bring new life to a pretty old phone.

Chazona Baum - Contestar

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