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iPhone 5s 电池更换

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  1. iPhone 5s 电池更换, 移除五角螺丝: paso 1, imagen 1 de 1
    • 在继续操作之前,请将iPhone电池的电量降至25%以下。 如果不小心刺破带电的锂离子电池会发生火灾和/或爆炸。

    • 开始拆卸之前请关闭你的iPhone。

    • 把两个3.9 毫米的五角螺丝从 Lightning 接口的两侧卸下。

    I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

    Magnus Dalen - Contestar

    For a secure working, put a small pot with lid on your workplace. When the battery starts burning, throw it in the pot, close it with the lid and get the pot safely out of the building, e.g. on the balcony or throw it out of the window. Do not try to extinct the battery with water, just let it burn out outside. This might take some hours.

    Raymond Willems - Contestar

    This is a really helpful one! My battery caught fire but luckily it was only one cell and not the entire battery. So it was done after a few seconds and I could go on with the replacement.

    Matthias Blab -

    Directions should say “use the P2 screwdriver head.”

    William Kolb - Contestar

    This step should have included that information. It was very helpful and important. Thank you very much.

    Jeffery -

    ifixit supplied a set of replacement philips screws (marked “Liberate!”). Thanks but I’m sticking with the pentalobe since they fit more securely than philips which have a chance of stripping if not held with the right amount of pressure.

    Don Libes - Contestar

    What are you supposed to do if the screws are stripped or won’t come out. No luck with the tweezers either.

    ibrokeit - Contestar

    Yep i‘ve had the same problem. One screw out, one that won‘t budge!!!

    Stennett -

    “cheater” reading glasses are a big help. Carolyn

    Carolyn Green - Contestar

    In this step, it is the P02 screwdriver from the kit (see that the nib has five sides , exactly for ‘pentalobe’ screws). All the other steps involving screws it was the Philips 000 (there was a third screwdriver Y 000 in the kit which I did not use). Did not have any problems at all removing and readding screws back through the process.

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    I'm trying to fix my 5s’s but one has some water damage, and impeccable screen but won't turn on,then I have another one that has no water damage, screens a bit busted but won't turn because of the screen. If I use the good screen from the water damaged phone would it work?

    samuel.m.fudge - Contestar

    After removing the phone from a very good plastic case and before I started the repair I cleaned the entire phone with a soft cloth misted with rubbing alcohol. That removes all the grunge which builds up in the seams of the phone and the small spaces inside the case. Having a clean phone to work on makes the job a lot easier and prevents grunge from falling into the phone.

    David Park - Contestar

    General comment about the screwdriver tips and reassembly: If you get a screw nicely set in place using tweezers and then use the screwdriver, the magnet will probably pull the screw out before you can tighten it. If this is a problem use just the tip (without the handle) to start the screw, then tighten using the handle.

    Kevin Patfield - Contestar

    DO NOT disconnect the screen.

    Benjamin Piscopo - Contestar

    Having two SE’s needing batteries, I ordered an extra battery. The extra battery did not come with the Phillips replacement screws. It would be helpful if every battery came with a set of case replacement screws.

    Dorothy Campbell - Contestar

    Upon reassembly I found it useful to squeeze the phone right above the screws so everything lines up nice. I noticed that when I didn’t do this the new Phillips screws were trying to go in crooked. So just holding the phone together helps.

    Samara Sullivan - Contestar

    hello i am replacing my iphone 5s battery but i am stucked because the adhesive broke whiles pulling it out

    before i started i made sure my battery was 0% but i am afraid that when i mistakenly puncture it with the spudger it might catch fire

    please is the battery capable of catching fire when it has no power (0%)?

    please can someone give me the honest answers before i continue

    thank you

    George Rockson - Contestar

    The screws in my iPhoneSE were not P2 (1,2mm) but P1 (0,8mm). I had to order an extra screwdriver which is not available at iFixit.

    Tadeus Nawka - Contestar

    Instructions were fine until removing the battery , No adhesive strip at the bottom of the battery . Unable to remove battery as the battery was stuck sold with adhesive but could not get at the adhesive strip to remove battery . seems whoever put the battery together did not put a strip across the bottom . Had the phone from new and this was the first time I tried to replace the battery . Now I need a new phone

    J Caley - Contestar

    Instructions fine until removing the battery . No strip at bottom of the battery hence impossible to get at the adhesive strips around the battery . This must have been done in the factory as I have had the phone from new and this was the first time the battery was being replaced . Cheesed off as I now need a new phone

    J Caley - Contestar

    30 minutes - to an hour? I gave up after removing the screws and spending an hour trying to lift the display with a suction pad.

    harwood - Contestar

    iPhone 5s maderbored

    Rahan Ali - Contestar

  2. iPhone 5s 电池更换, 用透明胶贴碎屏: paso 2, imagen 1 de 3 iPhone 5s 电池更换, 用透明胶贴碎屏: paso 2, imagen 2 de 3 iPhone 5s 电池更换, 用透明胶贴碎屏: paso 2, imagen 3 de 3
    • 如果你的手机显示屏碎了,请避免屏幕碎裂更加严重,可以通过使用透明胶粘贴屏幕来避免屏幕的主体损坏。

    • 把透明胶带贴在iPhone手机显示屏上,尽可能的覆盖整个屏幕。

    • 这会让屏幕碎片得到控制,并且在撬起屏幕时保持屏幕结构的完整性。

    • 在维修过程中,为了保护眼部不受到飞溅碎玻璃的伤害,请佩戴安全眼镜。

    This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

    TerryChang - Contestar

    An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

    TerryChang -

    I faced the same issue. My 5S wouldn't open with the iSclack. Had to use the suction cup instead. Even then, I wrestled with it for a whole 30 minutes.. Apparently my 5S is one sticky beast.

    Daylen -

    Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!.. It is not necessary to take the screen completely off. I did my 5 that was and assumed the 5S had a different protocol for a reason. It doesn't require removing the creen at all. I was careful on my 5 and had no problem. I took different prcautions and watched only the video and screwed up a perfectly good 5S... This means if your not backed up you just lost all your contacts and messages videos etc.... iFix is cool except their Video is not concise like the long instructions they provide. I was stupid and figured I new what i was doing after doing a couple other batteries and bingo I screwed it...

    yaterbob - Contestar

    Before embarking on this task, be sure you don't simply have built-up lint in the lightening port. I found that with a needle and some very CAREFUL workmanship removing lint/debris from the base of the port was what was ailing my machine.

    mark40 - Contestar

    Before embarking on this, remember to order some new replacement sticky adhesive strips, as these do not come with the replacement battery. I didn’t realise this until I had removed the battery. I just replaced it without and have crossed my fingers!

    debsmcd6 - Contestar

    As to my comment above, I had to order them and fit them to the battery as it was moving around inside!

    debsmcd6 - Contestar

    There is no need to over tape the screen; one strip is enough if wider to make a full cover. My screen was super fragmented and it worked beautifully with just one layer of tape.

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    I didn’t have packing tape, because my kids apparently found it and used it all up. But I have Scotch tape and a 3M Command hook and that worked.

    Justin Evans - Contestar

    I would never use a phone in that condition until I replace the screen.

    guardian10 - Contestar

  3. iPhone 5s 电池更换, 分离显示屏注意事项: paso 3, imagen 1 de 3 iPhone 5s 电池更换, 分离显示屏注意事项: paso 3, imagen 2 de 3 iPhone 5s 电池更换, 分离显示屏注意事项: paso 3, imagen 3 de 3
    • 在接下来的几步,你需要把屏幕从机身上拆开。屏幕由玻璃屏幕和金属卡扣组成。

    • 不论你使用什么工具,你需要确保你把整个屏幕拉起来了。

    • 如果如图一所示,玻璃开始和塑料分离,在塑料框和金属机身之间插入一个撬棒,撬开后屏幕的卡扣。

    • 如果你正在重新组装手机,你需要使用薄薄的一层胶来帮助手机密封。

    can this separation makes the screen stop working

    bassam_shallak92 - Contestar

    In my experience, dust particles have entered the screen, and partially ruins the wiewing experience, but this far the screen still works

    Iver søbakk -

    If the screen spilt and half is still stuck in the phone (clips broke and came out), how do I get the rest of the display panel up? It appears stuck, almost glued down.

    Shara Nelson - Contestar

    I was attempting to replace the battery on a phone that had been dropped once to create a dent in the top right corner, which pushed out the screen a tiny bit in that region, but not enough to break or render it non-functional. That all changed when I attempted to open my phone. I have a 5s and I had a friend’s broken SE that I was practicing on. I did not realize that either the construction of the screen is different, or that the dent in my phone would be that much of a problem. When I opened my phone, the top of the screen popped up almost immediately…. without the plastic bevel. It took a bit to get the bottom part open, but the plastic bevel in the top part was still stuck in the frame. I panicked and closed everything, but the screen was popped out from the frame even more and now when I turn on the phone, the screen has a green tint and won’t respond to touch :’(

    Zhian Kamvar - Contestar

    For reassembly, it is important to insert the upper end (the end opposite from the home button) in first, then pop the rest of the display assembly down into place. The upper end has protrusions which go beneath a metal lip. If done in the opposite (wrong) order, the upper end will not allow itself to be pushed down in place and will sit unevenly higher than the other end.

    Steve Bayes - Contestar

    I was replacing my 5s screen due to a cracked screen. I had used packing tape on it to keep the bits from falling apart while I waited for the replacement part, however, the tape limited my ability to use the suction cup for removal. After several tries I was able to get a firm attachment, however, the result was that the glass was being pulled up without the plastic rim. After several failed attempts of using plastic opening tools to wedge between the frame and the phone body, I ended up using an exacto-knife (a Stanley knife) based on another commenters suggestion. I knew I might end up scraping the metal but nothing else was thin enough to work. This approach totally worked for me so that I could get the frame lifted just enough to slide in plastic cards and wedges until I could switch over to the plastic opening tools. Luckily there are only very minor nicks (hardly even visible) on the metal. Thank you to that commenter, otherwise am not sure I could’ve done it.

    JW McAteer - Contestar

    Some articles show removal of the SIM card holder. Is this necessary?

    D Williams

    Dec 26/ 2019

    Don Williams - Contestar

    From the Step 13 photos, it would appear that removing the SIM card holder isn’t necessary on the 5s. However, for many mobile phones it IS a necessary step. If you do a lot of mobile phone repair, it’s a good habit to take out the SIM card holder to prevent damage.

    Eric Young -

    What adhesive is recommended for a separated display bezel? Reemplazo Adhesivo de Pantalla iPhone mentions that adhesive was only used for 2020 iPhone SE, not the 1st Generation. I haven’t found any other resource on replacing the 1st gen bezel adhesive.

    Jeff Lawshe - Contestar

    I didn’t realize there was a plastic bezel, how do I remove it?

    Nas - Contestar

    Kleine opmerking: correct Nederlands voor “plasticen frame” is “plastic frame” of ”plastieken kader”. Verder prima geschreven handleiding hoor.

    flitsdoortstad - Contestar

    Thanks voor het scherpe oog en de opmerking! We hebben het aangepast! Volgende keer kun je het echter ook zelf doen als een dergelijke fout tegenkomt! :)

    Thomas Keulemans -

  4. iPhone 5s 电池更换, 反向钳使用指南: paso 4, imagen 1 de 3 iPhone 5s 电池更换, 反向钳使用指南: paso 4, imagen 2 de 3 iPhone 5s 电池更换, 反向钳使用指南: paso 4, imagen 3 de 3
    • 接下来的两个步骤演示了如何使用反向钳,一个旨在简化打开过程的工具。 如果你不使用反向钳,请跳过这两个步骤以使用替代方法。

    • 有关如何使用 反向钳的完整说明,请查看本指南

    • 向后拉蓝色手柄以解锁反向钳臂。

    • 将支撑臂滑过 iPhone 的左边缘或右边缘。

    • 挤压吸盘,将吸力作用于所需部位。

    • 如果 iPhone 表面太滑,防夹手无法抓住,你可以使用附带的胶带垫来创建一个更易抓握的表面。

    DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

    Izaac Post - Contestar

    Thank you very much, however already used the suction cup and it came much easier than expected... Then snapped the home cable on my wife's phone... Now I have to replace that...

    Thomas Hallberg -

    This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

    Magnus Dalen - Contestar

    I used this tool on 2 successful screen replacements - BUT on the third time, the force did in fact separate the glass from the plastic, so I'd suggest inspecting first, and using with care.

    Andrew - Contestar

    This is the third repair using the iSclack it didn't have enough force to lift the face. I used the flat tool to help separate it. Thanks to those who warned against this tool due to pulling the glass face loose. I didn't think of that.

    ldavis - Contestar

  5. iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 5, imagen 1 de 3 iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 5, imagen 2 de 3 iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 5, imagen 3 de 3
    • 将蓝色手柄向前拉,锁定双臂。

    • 顺时针旋转手柄 360 度,直到吸盘开始拉伸。

    • 确保吸盘相互对齐。如果吸盘开始滑脱,请稍稍松开吸盘并重新对齐支臂。

    • 当反向钳产生足够大的间隙时,将撬片插入屏幕下方。

    • 如果反向钳没有形成足够的间隙,将手柄旋转四分之一圈。

    • 每次摇动不要超过四分之一圈,每圈之间等待几秒钟。把工作交给反向钳和时间来完成。

    • 跳过接下来的两个步骤。

  6. iPhone 5s 电池更换, 手动打开机身的步骤: paso 6, imagen 1 de 1
    • 如果你没有反向钳的话,那么你需要用一个小吸盘来吸起前面板。

    • 用小吸盘吸住屏幕,恰恰放置在home键靠上的位置。

    • 确保吸盘完全吸附于屏幕之上,并且有足够吸力。

    My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

    cpwittenberg - Contestar

    Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

    Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

    Craig Matthews -

    I suspect that the age of the phone and accident that caused cracks make this method possible for some people. My mom's phone was only a month or so old and the suction cup only caused the screen to raise slightly. There was certainly no crack I could squeeze a spudger into. I just superglued the suction cup onto the screen in the end, which was very effective.

    Caroline Russell -

    Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

    Malcolm - Contestar

    I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

    paul -

    This has probably been replied to, but see step 31 :) Should be re installed with the pokey out bits pointing down.

    daveoline -

    Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

    Lukeapple1414 - Contestar

    First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

    iGuys -

    My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

    Nathan - Contestar

    @malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

    hari - Contestar

    In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

    also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

    Robert Colvin - Contestar

    The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

    I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

    johnsonjohnr - Contestar

    Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

    daveoline -

    My battery had swollen enough to start pushing the display out. I was concerned that the glass and frame would separate during removal but using the standard suction cup and lots of work with the spludger (two person job) I got the screen out ok. I expected to have to re-attach the glass the the frame before reassembly but it went back together fine. I used a cable tie to avoid yanking the home button cable.

    Kevin Patfield -

    This happened to me too, with iPhone SE 1st Generation. You have to pull so hard that ripping the home cable seems inevitable. iSlack solved the opening problem. I don’t think iFixit should even suggest using a suction cap alone to open the iPhone SE 1st generation.

    John Messenger -

    I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

    I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

    matttaylor - Contestar

    If other people have this issue, I would try supergluing a screen protector over the old screen - leave a wide margin around the edges, home key, ear speaker. You could even just cut a piece of the protector into a square, or get a rectangle of shipping tape, the glued down portion needn't cover the whole screen. Then, glue the suction cup on top of the glued down screen protector or tape. I suggest this over the utility knife because it seems like the knife method would at the very least scratch up and nick the frame.

    Caroline Russell -

    i did this now i'm having a hard time putting the metal bracket back on :(

    sineglabs - Contestar

    1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

    2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

    3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

    4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    We got this to work. Some patience required, but absolutely doable. Our new iFixit suction cup did nothing, but a random one around the house worked fine. Just be patient and work it gently up, this use an opening tool or exacto blade to get into the seem once it comes up. Really quite doable. I'm glad I didn't spend 25 bucks on the fancy tool (a must for repeat use, I'm sure). But don't be deterred by the negatives above. Just go slow.

    Chris Twomey - Contestar

    I.did not read all the comments so I hope this isn’t redundant but my screen was too damaged to provide the air tonight seal that any suction device would need. The ifixit #3 flat head prayed the top out very easily. YMMV but I wouldn’t even try any other method before attempting to push the flat head down between the case and the glass. I thought it might bend the case out just a little causing a slight cosmetic damage but I have a rotective case that covers that anyway so who cares. Incidentally the case protected it from a lot of falls but not from gettin run over by my truck. A Prius once, but not the truck

    Bill Pennock - Contestar

    Oh and if you think this step is hard wait till you get to the screws on the home key or sliding the bracket back over the Touch ID cable connector. That is where the real problems are

    Bill Pennock - Contestar

    Single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - Contestar

    I agree but I found that I had to put screen cleaning fluid under the suction cup to get a strong enough seal. Also every time the suction cup slipped I had to turn the phone back off again!

    Micky McGuinness -

    I concur with Bryan’s post. The suction cup that was included with the toolkit that came with my battery wouldn’t hold to the screen when I pulled on it (the rubber was pretty soft, and the surface not smooth - not at all like the suction cup shown in the pictures of this guide). Fortunately I have a suction cup with a hook used typically for hanging things on the wall of a shower that held on quite tight that did the job - in fact, I had to use the point of the spudger to get under the edge of the suction cup to get it to release. I also used the zip tie trick someone else posted for making sure the screen didn’t open too far before disconnecting the home button cable, but it wasn’t necessary - I got the screen lifted with enough control that the cable was never in danger.

    stuart40plus - Contestar

    Suction cup supplied by ifixit worked for me. Of course I used all the tricks mentioned previously: Zip ties, work on one corner at a time, and work slowly - don’t expect it to pop out easily/quickly.

    Don Libes - Contestar

    Getting cocky after replacing a display screen and battery in a 6S i-Phone, I decided to open up my own -Phone SE and replace the old battery with a new one. I used one of the flip lever suction cup devices and it worked so well, that the display screen popped open so far that the Home Button Cable was torn off from the Home Button Assembly. I followed the instructions for re-assembly, but the damage was done. Lesson learned…read the Repair Guide before starting a repair!

    Peter Bovey - Contestar

    Suction cup for itself did not work for me. Then, I used a double face tape on it, and it worked nice (don’t try to remove the suction cup until you have fully unplugged the screen though). The suction cup should be used only to make a little gap for the other tools (spudger and that one which is blue). Sorry for the all caps, but ‘PULL THE SCREEN VERY SLOWLY’ (many people here commented there was a failure in this spet even being cautious).

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    I liked the idea of using an iSclack to pull on both sides at the same time but didn’t want to spend the money for one. Instead, I used the suction cup that attaches my GPS to the windshield of my car, attached it to the front and then attached the small suction cup provided with the tool kit to the back of my iPhone. Pulling both in opposite directions worked perfectly to pull the case open with minimal effort and no surprises.

    Gregory White - Contestar

    Instead of a ring handle like in the photo, the suction cup in my repair kit had a blue, plastic L-shaped handle with the vertical leg of the L offset from the center of the cup. Like others I used zip ties and placed the cup to the left of the home button and had the vertical leg of the L oriented toward the bottom of the phone. Patience is the key.

    Gary Grinstead - Contestar

    This is a lot easier if you take advantage of the fact that the coefficient of expansion is different between the metal case and the innards. On my second battery replacement, I heated a wet washcloth in the microwave, put it in a plastic bag, and laid the phone on it. Voila! Cracked the phone open almost like opening a refrigerator door!

    Dorothy Campbell - Contestar

    Thank you! This worked perfectly and should be added to the official repair guide :)

    Emi Soroka -

    This ⬆︎⬆︎ is excellent advice. I did excactly as Dorothy said. The screen disengaged from the case very easily.

    dbrick - Contestar

    Dorothy/dbrick this sounds pretty “logical to me” - Did you lay down the phone on the hot washcloth backside down - or did you wrap

    it around the phone? The idea is to expand the metal case while the glass of the screen does not follow the expansion. Not sure …

    Oberschrauber - Contestar

    Well Well her we are Ifixit saved some money with the suction cup pure junk great job guys! Who had this great idea? give him a big raise! The one in the picture is a much beter one, nice trick! You must have the Isclack tool !

    John Tourangeau - Contestar

    Oh what a pain in the neck this was. The suction cup is a hit or miss thing. But if you press down on it all over (center, edges, and the in between part) then it will stick reasonably firmly about 1 try out of every 5. When I did that, on the "good" tries, I was able to get the screen to move a tiny bit, not enough to put in the spudger. There was enough space for a utility knife blade to stick in, though it was a 2 person, 3 handed operation. I pulled the screen up (a fraction of a millimeter) and got another person to slip the knife into the crack while I was pulling. Then I was able to use the knife to get 1 corner of the screen opened enough to use the spudger the rest of the way. @flannelist gave very helpful encouragement in the Q&A forum. Anyway I still have the rest of the steps to go, so let's hope they are easier.

    paul - Contestar

    i am out $600 (and am VERY angry) because what should have been obvious to point out here was not. had i read the comments in this section before proceeding this may not have happened. yes, of COURSE you need to wrap a zip tie around the phone to prevent it from opening too far. prying on the case and pulling hard with the suction cup will undoubtedly result in the cover snapping open and, given the laws of physics (momentum) will cause it to open too far and pull out the connector. i can't be certain that was why my phone did not work after replacing the battery (as it did before starting) but it's a good guess. thanks a lot!

    mark phillips - Contestar

    The suction cup worked too well in my case. The display assembly popped right out and a ribbon cable appeared to come completely disconnected from the home button. I proceeded with the rest of the battery replacement and think it all went as it should have, but now my device doesn't indicate that it's receiving a charge when plugged in, and no combination of pushing or holding the home and sleep/wake buttons does anything. My phone was well on its way to brick status, but this one slip-up seemed to secure it.

    JCR - Contestar

  7. iPhone 5s 电池更换, 开始提起前面板组件: paso 7, imagen 1 de 1
    • 屏幕通过卡扣固定在机身,并且有几条带状电线连接着屏幕和机身。你的目标是把卡扣脱离,然后打开足够的空间用来分离电线就可以了。所以在操作时你需要非常缓慢,谨慎地避免损坏电线。

    • 确保吸盘紧紧地吸附在home键附近的前面板组件上。

    • 一只手固定好iPhone机身,另一只手轻轻地把机身从前面板底端的home键上分离。

    • 当你左手使用吸盘拉动的时候,右手用塑料撬棒在后机壳边缘处,轻轻地撬动,使屏幕和机身分离。

    • 慢慢来,使用恒力操作。前面板组件比其它电子设备紧得多。

    Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

    llcoreyll - Contestar

    Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

    idmadj -

    Agreed, I really wish I had paid extra to buy the isclack. Didn’t because I thought that I could be careful—that iFixIt provided just the suction and it would take a few days to get the extra tool. Take the time. Its not worth it.

    Thought I was extremely careful—absolutely no movement or pull. Then pop. Pulled home button cord right out of its socket. Buying a new phone later today. The extra few days and additional cash would have totally been worth it.

    Timothy Fry -

    Found it very easy to do with a single suction cup, just wiggle and pry.

    emiserry -

    It may help to position the suction cup off-center and pull up one corner first.

    Rosemary McNaughton - Contestar

    Yes, I had problems initially (with the suction cup placed just above the home button) but placing it in the left corner did the trick.

    Brian Riess -

    Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

    Konrad Tlatlik - Contestar

    Lol. Evolved fingernails to open phones.

    Chal Miller -

    Wrap a zip-tie loosely around the phone to avoid pulling the cover too far off and breaking the ribbon cable.

    Thor Lancaster - Contestar

    Thank you for the zip tie suggestion!

    W Fleming -

    YES - the loose zip-tie is the answer. This gives you the confidence to exert the force you need to pull the cover up. And you do need a bit of force!

    Jeremy Rodwell -

    Zip tie is a brilliant suggestion. Very robust and safe way to pull the phone apart--I had mine wrapped just above the home button and kept the case from opening beyond about 1/8 of an inch.

    bartonh - Contestar

    Used the suction cup and only my screen came up. Looks as though the screen delaminated from its black aluminum mounting tray. The home button stayed with the tray as well. Any ideas?

    Kyle Rogers - Contestar

    I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

    adrt - Contestar

    We disagree with the naysayers. Patient use of the suction cup worked for us. The iFixit one didn't do it (it looked a bit deformed out of the box. But a random kids toy worked fine. Nothing fancy. Don't rush. Use an exacto as it starts to come up to slide in to the crevice. After that, works pretty well.

    Chris Twomey - Contestar

    The Jimmy tool worked for me. Managed to slide it in and twist slightly to pop the screen off without too much force.

    leeprobert - Contestar

    ifixit's sucktion cup and blue opening tool worked very well for me. I used the suction cup just enough to get the opening tool into a gap and gently pry out the clips. I'm glad that the display didn't give way too easily otherwise I might have damaged a cable. I wish I had read the zip tie comment first though.

    Scott Watson - Contestar

    ifixit's suction cup and blue opening tool worked well for me. Like the zip tie suggestion as a precaution.

    Erik Osborn - Contestar

    during reassembly, screen cracked worse than screen i was replacing!!

    Valerie Egan - Contestar

    Yup - I did the same thing… The top corner of the encasement was slightly bent from when I had dropped the phone and where the screen cracked originally. I didn’t notice it right away and when I went to “snap” the screen back down into place during reassembly, it wasn’t quite a perfect fit, and when I tried to press it into place, I cracked the new screen. Note to self - “check for small dents in the encasement and try to fix before trying to tighten down the screen”. The new cracked screen is still better than the one that I was replacing. I feel so dumb. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake I guess. Hopefully this little write up saves someone else from making the same mistake.

    Christopher Flynn -

    I also broke the screen (after replacing the battery). When closing up the screen, insert the top of the screen first, then lay the phone face down on a flat surface and apply pressure from the back of the phone. It worked for me…

    stopsurfing - Contestar

    This is a great idea! Works for me too!

    JC Alice -

    This comment definitely should be in the guide!! It is an awesome hint.

    Andre Silva -

    Yes, hooking the top part of the phone in first seems to be pretty important. Also the plastic rim had broken and detached, which made pressing the screen back in even harder. Laying the phone face down to press the screen back in that way probably saved me from breaking it. Major upvote on this comment.

    Leigh Martin -

    Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair. Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - Contestar

    Use some tape to limit how far the screen will open. I used wide packing tape, stuck it to the bottom of the display, where the home button is, and to the opposite side, on the back. It left a loop of tape, front to back, around the bottom of the phone, that had about an inch of slack. This allowed the display to pop off completely without any danger to the home button cable. No prying required.

    Michal Pawlowski - Contestar

    YES! I was just about to suggest this as I tore the home cable even though I was really careful opening it.

    Arthur Shi -

    The tape suggestion worked great! I used the suction cup, and the tape limited how far the display lifted once the snaps released. I’m sure I would have ripped the cable without this. No need to buy the iSlack to do this (if you have a suction cup)

    spyder13b -

    What worked extremely easy for me was I used a utility knife to score on the joint below the home button. The blade went in easy then lightly pried the screen up then followed up the rest of the way with the ifixit opening tool. I’m sure the ifixit Jimmy tool would work as well, instead of the utility knife.

    Scott Nacke - Contestar

    I wish I’d looked at the comments here before I tore the home button cable. I was trying to be careful and not to rip it but it just got away from me. Now I’ve ordered the replacement part…

    Graham Agnew - Contestar

    The glass of my screen went off at first and there was also a black plastic frame that I managed to peel off as well.

    At first I didn’t notice that the metal bracket didn’t come off. It was a bit of a struggle to lift the metal bracket.

    Wolfgang Bauer - Contestar

    Wish I’d read through these first.

    Used the suction cup but went too far when the display finally popped loose pulling the home button cable off the main board. Hope it was only the cable that was damaged - will try a replacement home button.

    Limiting the display’s travel with tape or a zip tie is an excellent idea !!!

    Leonard - Contestar

    I used the suction cup, but used a long screwdriver through the pull-ring help up with books either side piled to just lift the phone of the worksurface when I started to apple downward force on the phone. Meant that I could be more confident applying force as, if it did go suddenly, the phone would only travel the distance down to the surface. Had to add a few books as I hadn’t allowed for them compressing as I applied force.

    Peter Whitworth - Contestar

    This works SO well. I used this method, and it didn’t require much force to get one corner revealed to get the pry tool in there. After that it was smooth sailing. I had to reopen the phone a couple times to fix some things, and I was never nervous using this method. Thanks so much for the idea!!!!

    Colton Miller -

    We used the little suction cup the Ifixit supplies in the repair kit, NOT the iSclack. It took many attempts, patience, and two people working together, but ultimately we succeeded. Here are a few tips: soak the suction cup in very hot (just boiled) water for 5-10 minutes to get it really warm and pliable. As one person holds the phone and pulls up on the suction cup, the other should work the blue opening tool at the first sign of the display assembly starting to lift from the phone. Many times the suction cup would pop off but we kept heating the cup, resticking, and working it until we finally opened it. We used the cable tie suggestion above as well to be sure the phone would not open too far and this saved us when it finally popped free. Remember to work the clips on the side as well once you have a gap. Honestly, this took the most patience of all 62 steps! (Yes, there are 62 steps…only 54 more to go!)

    James M. Day - Contestar

    I could not exert enough force using the suction cup that came with iFixit battery replacement kit

    to pull the bottom of the screen away from the case. However, an X-acto knife inserted between the

    screen and the bottom edge of the case near the left corner allowed me to lift the screen sufficie

    ntly to insert a stiffer blade (a tiny screwdriver). Lifting further with the stiffer blade I was

    able to complete the separation by sliding the edge of a credit card along the bottom and sides of

    the screen. A plectrum would have worked as well. Using a knife blade eliminates the risk of dama

    ging the home-button cable.

    JPF - Contestar

    They really should include tips like a zip tie to prevent over opening and tearing the home button cable. Now I need to replace my home button.

    Lisa Jakubowsk - Contestar

    This step definitely scared me the most after reading all the comments, but with a helper this proved fairly simply. Using two suction cups I pried the case apart from the corner (not directly above the home button), just enough to barely fit the plastic opening tool into the notch. Unless you have 3 hands. Once in, you can release the tension from the suction cups, and simply pry the case open with the tool, to a satisfying pop.

    I used the zip tie trick, which is a clever idea. I don’t think it was necessary, but I would probably use this precaution again.

    Peter Spiegel - Contestar

    Patience is the key. At first I tried holding the phone in my hand and pulling on the suction cup. I finally put the phone on the table (like the instructions say…..duh) held the base in one hand while pulling on the suction cup with the other. I was getting movement but not enough to use the prying tool. After a bit of this I ran a razor blade along the bottom of the phone between the screen and the bottom casing. This broke whatever seal had built up between the two and the screen soon came off enough to use the prying tool.

    Gary Grinstead - Contestar

    In another guide there was a reference to the screen being pulled away from its frame? This was happening to me, so used very small amounts of superglue between screen and frome, applied using a cocktail stick. Left it for 24 hours. Worked fine.

    Wayne - Contestar

    I would echo most of these comments. I tried to be very careful, but still managed to pop up the display (it was very tight indeed), severing not only the home button but, as I later discovered, a cable at the other end of the phone.

    Really, get the proper tool.

    Ian Harris - Contestar

    razor blade: 1 min

    suction cup and other nonsense: 20 mins with zero progress

    Jordan Brennan - Contestar

    I used the iFixit kit (2019) with suction  cup. It worked perfectly fine. Absolutely imperative—USE A ZIPTIE (or one of the other suggestions such as box tape). It’s cumbersome to handle the phone and you might become preoccupied with positioning your hands that you apply an unmeasured amount of force.

    I wasn’t sure what to expect. Suction cup in place, plastic opening tool on the edge. As I adjusted hand position and applied force, BAM! the screen just popped up, and was saved by a ziptie.

    xtian - Contestar

    I had no problem using suction cup - put zip tie around phone just in case, but by slowly using plastic pry tool and pulling gently on suction cup from lower left side of phone, it separated quite easily. Keep prying around edges slowly so that you don’t get a big release.

    Patrick Pedersen - Contestar

    I pulled to dar when I did it, but got lucky and it only disconnected the cable right where i would have anyway. Everything seems to work fine but maybe there's damage and I dont know it. Anything to check?

    foyboy84 - Contestar

    I read about the zip tie precaution but as I didn’t have any in the house i just went on using the suction cup without any protection.. and in fact the phone snapped open at one point and the home button cable bracket flew away, as the cable separated from the socket… I imagined the worst happened but as the cable was still intact I wanted to check if for a miracle there wasn’t any damage, so I reconnected the home button to its socket and turned on the phone (still with the case open)… and I must had just consumed all my yearly luck subscription because everything worked fine including Touch ID!! So if you experience a situation similar to mine where the home button cable is still intact, give it a shot reconnecting and testing it before you order a replacement!

    JustATestAccount - Contestar

    This guide is flawed on this important point.

    I don’t see the point of posting a guide that doesn’t work.

    Other than the fact that i bought a fix it kit…

    It’s rattled my confidence in ifixit guides………….

    iain macleod - Contestar

    I’m not sure why you completely fail to mention the tool slot in the bottom left corner of the display? There’s a little slot here so once you get the screen open a little you can get a tool in and prise it open the rest of the way. I’m also not sure how people are destroying the touch ID cable here, it’s sensitive electronic equipment, so care and a bit of common sense is obviously required here. You have about 3cm leeway anyway, which I found was more than adequate. The display may stick a little at first, with years of accumulated dirt in my case, but with a bit of patience and gradually working away at it, it will release. Don’t be nervous and think you need an expensive tool like the iSclack, you really don’t. Just be really careful and don’t rush things.

    Jody - Contestar

    If you’re using the suction handle instead of the iSclack, I’d recomment tying a band around the bottom end of the iPhone to create a physical stop to prevent the front pulling away too far. Maybe something like a couple of tough rubber bands or a shoelace wrapped around two or three times with enough give to allow you to pull up the front, but to stop the it flying open if you pulled just a little too hard.

    I think a band of some kind like that should be included in the kit, it would be an inexpensive solution that allows people to use the cheaper suction handle but still safeguard the touch ID cable.

    Takako Jin - Contestar

    The suction cup of my Pro Tech Toolkit neither worked on tape nor screen, so I took the blade of my titanium scissors, pressed it against the side of the screen and lifted it while trying to find my third hand to put a spudger into the opening gap. This worked well in the end, but be careful.

    This step should also include hints about putting the new screen into its place. I was happy to press mine gently into the frame from edge to edge, feeling it bend but not break.

    sven - Contestar

    Suction cup does not work at all. I feel cheated. I will be taking the screen to a repair shop.

    cris@theworld.com - Contestar

  8. iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 8, imagen 1 de 2 iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 8, imagen 2 de 2
    • 不要尝试把屏幕完全从机身分离,因为这个时候还有几条带状电线连接着屏幕和机身。

    • 拉动塑料纽来松开吸盘。

    • 把吸盘从屏幕上移除。

    Cracked my screen using the supplied suction cup. Had to apply clear packing tape to screen to very patiently finish the job. However, now I need a new screen. How nice :-(

    Scott Stathis - Contestar

    I added a double face tape in the suction cup to make it work, and then, I did not try to remove it until I had unplugged the screen. It was inconvenient not being able to work with the screen in a horizontal position when removing the ‘home button’ but it wasn’t also the end of the world.

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    To reassemble, make sure you slide the little counterparts on the top of the display under the phone’s frame first. See this answer: Screen won't close tight after reassembly. To close the display after that, I simply turned the device around (on a cloth) and pushed down on the frame with a lot of pressure. Much better than trying to close each edge individually by hand.

    ursbraem - Contestar

    This operation went fine in my case, but I was concerned with what seemed like a lot of necessary force to get the supplied suction cup to adhere to the screen - I didn’t want to crack the glass. After a few unsuccessful tries, I did finally moisten the suction cup and it stuck solidly. I was also surprised that some careful prying was needed to get the screen to release.

    Ed Austin - Contestar

    I ripped the cable. Now I need a new phone. aghhh

    Tymon Van Diemen - Contestar

  9. iPhone 5s 电池更换, 移除Touch ID电线支架: paso 9, imagen 1 de 3 iPhone 5s 电池更换, 移除Touch ID电线支架: paso 9, imagen 2 de 3 iPhone 5s 电池更换, 移除Touch ID电线支架: paso 9, imagen 3 de 3
    • 稍微打开屏幕,可以看到盖住home键电线的挡板铁片就可以了。

    • 千万不要把屏幕和机身分得太开,因为有一些电线依然连接着屏幕和机身,分得太开会损坏home键电线或及其接口。保持电线是松的状态——如果电线拉紧了,那么就说明分得太开。

    • 只有手机原装的Home键组件才能使用Touch ID功能。如果你扯断这根电线,装上新的home键只能恢复home键功能,而将失去Touch ID功能。

    • 使用手机撬棒推动松下铁片,再用镊子取下来。

    • 接下来两步仅适用于重新组装。如不是重组,可以直接跳到第12步。

    I had put some what more pressure to suck and sensor cable got detached from upper part(display) , now what shall i do , how to fix it ?

    Nikunj - Contestar

    Is the touch ID bracket really important or have any use ? I forgot to put it back… Is it going to malfunction ?

    John Doe - Contestar

    mine did not appear to have a bracket.. I am wondering too if this is going to mess with it?

    Donna Godfrey -

    It's there to keep it firmly in place.

    Didier Daniel -

    My bracket popped out when I opened the screen too far, so if you can’t see the bracket, look around inside your phone. it might be hiding out.

    lucy -

    Mine also doesn't seem to have a bracket. Plus the cable unclipped itself when the screen shot free - yikes. Looks OK though. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

    Gabe - Contestar

    I wrapped a velcro tie loosely around the phone so it wouldn't open up too far. (or could use a zip tie) Then while holding the screen down with one hand, I pulled the suction cup up with the other hand, using gradual pressure. while using a "wiggeling" upward pressure, I concentrated on raising the left side of the screen, which gradually started to loosen up. then I concentrated on the lower left corner until I had enough of a gap to work in the the flat surface of the plastic tool. I then pried on this corner. The screen then popped up without stressing the home button cable.

    Harry

    Harry Jones - Contestar

    Genius. Pure genius.

    Aiden -

    This worked extremely well. Thank you! I used the tail of the zip tie as a nub to help hold down the phone while doing what you described. The left side of my phone opened easily but I had to use a combination of spunger and X-acto blade to free the end and right side.

    Once opened I placed the same plastic sponger just under the screen from one side to the other to hold it up to access home button cable.

    Daniel

    dleyes -

    This technique is fantastic.

    Boyd Waters -

    I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

    andy - Contestar

    DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

    Max Powers - Contestar

    God bless you! My bracket flew off & vanished into thin air. I actually spent more time searching for it than replacing the battery. Everything seems to function without it- but your post (and your wife’s experience) puts my mind at ease. Thanks~

    madriverlauri -

    You say you have to use the original home button. But what is the button "bound" to? The motherboard?

    Iver søbakk - Contestar

    Yep. Bound to the phone CPU.

    Michael Walker -

    When I lifted my screen during this step, the metal LCD shield plate did not come out with the screen. Very confusing. I needed to carefully pry around the shield plate's side notches, just inside the walls of the iPhone's back, in order to lift it out. Required a trifle bit more force than I anticipated.

    Zac Imboden - Contestar

    I’m already limited to using a touch screen home button. (physical home button stopped responding but fingerprint works) Would this take away that functionality of my on screen home button? does this affect the fingerprint security feature?

    Kris704 - Contestar

    I used the 5S battery kit that iFixit shipped me and attached the suction cup to the screen and gently started pulling to lift the screen. It lifted revealing a very slight crack and I used the spudger tool with the suction cup still lifting away gently and it opened more. At no point did I see any home button cable???

    When the screen came off more I continued to follow all the other instructions and have got to step 23 … I see no battery adhesive tab???

    Just loads of black electrical tape blending in with the battery seal. So now I have no clue how to complete taking the battery out?

    Completely bummed at this point….

    Alun Williams - Contestar

    Sounds like you’ve got an iPhone 5. This guide is for the 5s. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Be forewarned: make sure you really really want that new battery or display replacement, because you are VERY likely to lose your Touch ID feature on your phone after taking this step. It is extremely sensitive. The front of the bracket is the point of tension that holds it in place. In my case, as I carefully used the spudger to release the bracket, the released tension shot the bracket out of the phone and the Touch ID cable popped out of its socket with it. This gave me a start but I inspected both parts and they appeared to be fine. I finished the battery replacement, and put the cable back in place only to discover: no Touch ID. Even after I re-opened the phone two more times and finally figured out how to properly reseat the bracket, Touch ID was gone. Judging by this experience the Touch ID cable/pins must be insanely sensitive – perhaps one pin was dislodged by a fraction of a millimeter? I can’t say for sure. But sadly after repeated and careful attempts to reseat it, my Touch ID is lost for good. :(

    N B - Contestar

    Same here. I thought I was being very careful but ended up damaging something even though everything looked fine. No more TouchID for this old iPhone 5S…

    Michael Walker -

    There’s an easy solution to this step: use hemostats (miniature vice grip). Took me about 10 seconds (after over an hour using various other tools).

    Robert Smith - Contestar

    Attention in this part!! I had to put more pressure than I should, then the bracket flew away and the cable also unplugged all together (probably placed the spudger beneath the cable instead of only beneath the bracket). I was lucky nothing bad happened, but I lost total control in this step (it was my only mistake).

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    Tape the screen to the case on the sides with some slack to keep the screen from opening too far.

    Nace - Contestar

    My screen came out too far and the flexcable got ripped out of the home button :/

    Your solution should be part of the official guide, it’s practical and everyone has tape at home, wish I had it done this way.

    alf -

    Just wedge the sharp end of the forceps between the bracket and the plug and push until the bracket pops open. That way there is no danger of tearing out the entire socket.

    Imre Treufeld - Contestar

    One way to easily access the bracket (for removal and for insertion) is to rotate the display around the cable connection horizontally, so that the screen is not above the bracket but rather to the side.

    When disassembling, note that the screen assembly is hinged to the bottom on the edge away from the home button. After first opening the screen to about 30 degrees as above, slide the screen in the direction where the home button was to disengage this hinge (this is the first bullet item in step 13 below). Then rotate to expose the bracket to eyes and tweezers.

    Yishai Sered - Contestar

    This metal bracket snaps over the plug, and there appears to be a snap detent on the front of the bracket (side facing the charging port). The first photo for this step show the spudger on the side closest to the battery (above the holes in the bracket). I would recommend pulling up on the side closest to the charging port. Also, as others mentioned, when this releases it will go flying - mine did too.

    Take note of how it’s oriented before you pop it loose - it only goes on one way (can’t be rotated 180 degrees)

    When re-installing the bracket later, I inserted the side closet to the battery first (like the 2nd photo in Step 10 below), then rotated it down (pressing it down). It snaps back in place

    spyder13b - Contestar

    completed the operation without any real problems, except the Touch ID cable bracket, which was tricky.

    But when all was together - the phone is dead - no screen - just black even when attached to loading cable.

    I went back in and made sure the battery cable was clicked in, reassembled and have the same problem.

    Rosalind - Contestar

    Same here. Did you ever get your device working again?

    JCR -

    Is the photo (step #9, photo #3) wrong? The bracket has a rectangular shape. On one of the shorter sides (of the rectangle), the rectangle is ‘open’. Shouldn’t this be the route for the cable?

    xtian - Contestar

    xtian, I see what you mean, but I replaced the bracket as in the picture, with the open side to the left, and the cable exited the bracket naturally, without problems.

    Elizabeth Simon -

    STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

    Ashley Lahm - Contestar

    I lifted up the screen really slowly and kept the cable fully slack, but it was in two halves! The bit that folds back is seperate, have I wrecked Touch ID?

    TheRe - Contestar

    Help. Is there some trick to getting the home button reconnected? I gave up on reattaching the bracket, but the home button doesn’t work at all because the connection isn’t seated right. This is a problem as you can imagine. This was in the course of a battery replacement. Any tips greatly appreciated.

    Jeanne Bredestege - Contestar

    My phone did not have this bracket. Our other SE did.

    Dorothy Campbell - Contestar

    Like the first comment, it sprung open and the cable detached from the button. What can I do? How to I re-attach or get a new button with a new cable?

    Robert Venning - Contestar

    Dieser Teil ist der schwierigste, Ich habe zig Versuche gebraucht bei denen mir die Klammer immer wieder weggesprungen ist.

    Ich habe insgesammt deutlich über 2 Stunden gebraucht, hauptsächlich weil mir beide Klebestreifen abgerissen waren.

    Warum sind alle Kommentare in der deutschen Anleitung in englisch?

    mit_dt - Contestar

    Hallo! Derzeit gibt es noch nicht so viele Kommentare auf deutsch, wir zeigen daher alle Kommentare bei den Anleitungen an, egal in welcher Sprache sie geschrieben wurden, weil es ja trotzdem hilfreich sein kann, sie zu lesen. Du kannst oben rechts im Menü der Sprachauswahl die “machine translation” auf “ON” stellen, dann werden die Kommentare automatisch über Google translate übersetzt. Das ist zwar manchmal nicht so gut verständlich, aber besser als nichts, dachten wir.

    Sandra Hiller -

    The bracket is magnetic. I found it with a pair of large flat magnets from 1980s speaker woofers, but hard drive magnets should work too. It bounced off my lap to a meter away. I should have read comments FIRST.

    keesan - Contestar

    Okay, I'm confused. I just read on this site that all iphones post 6 you can use a different cable. Now mind you I have a 1st gen iphone SE, but this is the site that fixes for my phone are sent to... so am I screwed, or not? I have the original home button, so is there anyway to attach the cable off the replacement (OEM) top piece to my own home button? Thanks

    george - Contestar

  10. iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 10, imagen 1 de 2 iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 10, imagen 2 de 2
    • 重组的时候,你会需要重新安装 Touch ID 电线支架。这个支架的顶部需要从电池和Touch ID线缆接头之间的空间滑入,底部必须被连接器锁死。

    • 把支架顶端从左到右滑过Touch ID 电线接口。

    This is the hardest part lol

    Bob smith - Contestar

    I concur! I think I need thinner tweezers.

    FierDancr -

    1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone. Mine didn't "latch down" or stay in place - it just sort of sat there.

    2) Note that the rest of the bracket this attaches to must be removed from the Lightning Connector assembly & reattached to the new one.

    3) I combined this repair w/replacing the battery, and smashed the bottom of the bracket under the battery/adhesive strips. Careful not to do that, so that you can actually complete this step.

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone.

    Sorry, but I believe this is wrong. Besides, the ‘clip(s)’ is not the important feature here. This bracket has a rectangular footprint, and one of the two shorter sides (of the rectangle) is open. This open side, I believe, is the route for the cable.

    xtian -

    Comment above was made on the Lightning Connector replacement guide - I guess it got pulled over here since as well since the steps are identical ... Anyway careful not to smash the bottom bracket w/the replacement battery or adhesive

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    That was fun without tweezers :)

    Oscar - Contestar

    Even with tweezers (the eyebrow kind) it was still an exercise in extreme calming techniques. I nearly gave up, but after 20 minutes I finally got it to seat and clamp.

    natzulf -

    It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

    copeconsultancy - Contestar

    I think it's the pics and the word 'slide' that throws people off. I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place. Still the guide had this down for me in 30 minutes even with the 'hardest part' haha and the part from ifixit worked and looked perfect.

    Brent Hillyer - Contestar

    After reading the comments I was not looking forward to this step on re-assembly. I agree that the pictures and the instruction to “slide” the bracket into place may be worrisome. But I was able to orient the bracket directly over where it was supposed to go. Then inserted the 2 clips (top) in first and easily and gently snapped the bottom clip into place. Probably spent less than a minute on this part.

    Jere -

    After about 20 minutes I wonder if I could just snap it in place. I did it in about 15 seconds.

    The “slide part and accompanying images are really misleading.

    jpfranc -

    It took me 10 minutes to accomplish this step; 9’:55’’ I spent reading the comments and 0:05’’ plugging the bracket the way you describe. This step step should be edited in this guide. It is definitely misleading people.

    Andre Silva -

    I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place.

    Tried this and yes, it worked well. Touch ID works.

    Basil Skrnk -

    DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

    Max Powers - Contestar

    Not everyone should ditch the bracket just because you did. The bracket is there to keep everything firmly in place.

    Didier Daniel -

    I did finally leave it off. I’m sure if I worked for Foxconn I could snap those on in seconds flat. After 30minutes of trying I figured it would either work or I’d have to spring fo a new phone. It just wasn’t gonna happen for me. Right now it’s working so it’s all about reliability now

    Bill Pennock -

    I'm not so patient, so I finally gave up and ditched the bracket. No problem so far. Anyway, ditch it at your own risk!

    Daniel del Saz -

    On an old 5S, the metal retainer bracket snapped in easily. There was no sliding, the rear edge dropped in straight, it hinged down, and locked almost before I knew it. The lack of a click or any positive feel on this critical connector surprised me a lot. I had to eyeball it with a magnifier to feel sure the ribbon connector was really in its socket. Works perfectly after the replacement, though.

    Jeff Clayton - Contestar

    All this time I was trying to put the bracket right next to the battery but that's not right. There's no way the bumps on the metal connector can fit in the slots on the bracket. It's battery, metal connector and then the bracket. So easy. Next time I dismantle an iPhone 5S I won't be dreading this step.

    Kim Mace - Contestar

    I should NOT have had that cup of coffee before I attempted this!

    Cory Powell - Contestar

    This was definitely the fiddliest bit of the whole reassembly.

    After trying the slide in and then press method many times without success I ended up feeding it in directly with the tweezers, carefully angling it back up into position, then clipping it down. But the whole thing took at least 5 minutes. And my shaky hands didn’t help matters!

    Toby Moncaster - Contestar

    I was sweting gallons during this step!

    Timothy Owens - Contestar

    The replacement of the bracket was tricky. The bracket has to be put in under the two tiny tabs in the back (next to the battery) and then pushing down in the front. I knew I had it when I heard a little click from the one tab in the front seating.

    Ron Wagner - Contestar

    HI Ron, you are almost right. Or at least I did clip in the front part first and then just push the back while the back side was in between the home button connector and that two pins (the bracket on the “board”). As you said it just click in and you could hear. That was after I tried put the back first and then clip the front for 15 min.

    Martin Chudomel -

    This step needs to be explained better! The metal bracket needs to be slid in front of the metal connector near the battery and then clicked down. I've been stuck on this step as I kept trying to slide it between the metal connector and battery!!

    Whitney Hourigan - Contestar

    Updated the text a bit, while correct, it didn’t mention the metal tab in relation to the battery and cable connector. Hope this helps the next person!

    Sam Goldheart -

    This was the most helpful when trying to get the bracket back on! Once you understand that it “clips” on after you slide it on, it makes getting the bracket back on much more easy.

    Jose Gutierrez -

    And for this step felt like a life long career of tiddly winks had commenced

    Jake Baxter - Contestar

    It is confusing in reassembly, that the steps 10 and 11 are in the ascending order, because we follow the guide backwards (I suggest explaining the correct sequence: …, 12, 10, 11, and ??. ?? —> This is another point of confusion, the next step is to fit the screen back in, but because there are many (alternative) steps to open the phone, all the useful comments about closing it are spread among topics 3 to 9. There should have been a box (step) exclusively to the part of fitting the screen , so the explanation is more clear and comments are put all together. There are extremely useful comments here that should be edited in the guide (to make it even better).

    Andre Silva - Contestar

    I am having trouble connecting the home button connector to the phone cpu? Not sure why it's not staying connected but was wondering it there was any advice. I've tried for about 20 minutes just trying to line it up and press it down but no luck…

    Trayvon Banks - Contestar

    3 times I’ve had to repair my 5S & this was the most frustrating part each time. This time I cheated & just placed the cover back on top of the cable & closed the phone up. No clicking or sliding or fumbling with it. Look at it from the left side & it’s a bit easier to see where it winds up, but I didn’t fuss with it. Phone works fine now anyway.

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    Reinstallation.

    I struggled for a short time to get the bracket back into place. The bracket has a rectangular footprint. One edge has 1-clip and the other edge has 2-clips. I thought the 1-clip side was a ‘hook’. Haha. NOT! After taking a closer look, I could see the shape and understood how the piece should fit. It SNAPS into place.

    xtian - Contestar

    anyone else have any issues with the home button? i did everything according to the directions, but now the home button/fingerprint id is not working. Help!

    Robert Hartry - Contestar

    Reseating the Touch ID cable connector is definitely the trickiest part.

    Press fit for the connector back into the female connector side doesn’t snap in as it does on the other connectors.

    It took me 3 tries before the Home button would acknowledge the Touch ID. Make sure the connector is fully engaged by gently pushing the connector sidewise with the sprudger after you have seated the connector to make sure it is fully engaged. Gently though until it is clear there is resistance and it does not move.

    paul naecker - Contestar

    This step is incredibly difficult. I finally got the sensor snapped into place (gently), but could not get the clip in. Worst part was I placed the battery too close to the sensor chassis. So I think this is why I could not “slide” the clip into place. In the end, I left the clip off and put the phone back together. Everything works as before.

    John Schafer - Contestar

    STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

    Ashley Lahm - Contestar

    I gave up also. Pressed down too hard and bent the part it clips onto. Just put a blob hot glue or Blu-tak in place. No problem. Works fine. Stupid design.

    blackettfenwicks - Contestar

    Wish I’d read the comments before attempting this step. I spent five minutes unsuccessfully trying to use the tweezers to slide the bracket onto the connector from left to right as described, then in frustration I squeezed too hard and the clip pinged out of the tweezers and vanished. Ten minutes searching the room and it was nowhere to be found. I’ll probably find it while tidying up in five years’ time and wonder what it is. I finished reassembling the phone without it and everything is working fine so far. Perhaps the home button connector is more likely to come loose if I drop the phone, but if it does at least I know how to pop it open and reconnect it.

    Alex Holden - Contestar

    I checked this on YouTube when re-assembling. The small tongue should be at the front and you should slide the clip to the right as far as it will go before pressing the bracket into place.

    harwood - Contestar

    This is hands down the hardest part.

    Worst thing is, that bracket lands always on the wrong side, when its dropped on the table to be picked up with tweezers, what are the odds?

    Joking aside, I ended up doing it slightly differently as in the instruction. I was not able to slide the bracket in from the side. It always slipped from the tweezers and was a pain.

    In the end, I took a different approach:

    Put the bracket on top of the connector, but too far towards the charging port (bottom of the phone); it will be angled towards the charging port, since the rear lip of the bracket still sits on top of the connector

    Then, align it above the connector (left/right) place a finger on it and push it towards the battery

    The lip will slide between the connector and the back fence, the front hook will also slide in place

    Finish it by pressing it down with the flat side of the spudger.

    Niklas Möller - Contestar

    I ripped this cable by accident. Definitely the hardest part

    Tymon Van Diemen - Contestar

    Oh bracket, what bracket? I just realized that I have indeed lost the bracket and just snapped the connector into the phone and screwed it shut. The 2010 battery swelled so much that is pushed the whole screen open so if I get a year out of it then great - just for the kids to mess about with. The Touch ID stopped working long ago but I'll know what to look for when the home button stops working. But 13 year old battery - wow and it just died here in 2023, but phone was not really used for past 6 years or so but I swear it powers up a year ago.

    buy - Contestar

  11. iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 11, imagen 1 de 2 iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 11, imagen 2 de 2
    • 在重新组装时需使用撬棒平头的一边把 Touch ID 电线支架给撬出来。

    • 如果支架没有很容易出来,你可能需要移除支架,并再次把支架滑过电线接口。

    It seems like a couple of these steps are reassembly steps? I wish they would label them as such. This step and step 10 are for reassembly, and it's confusing.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Contestar

    See the information line on Step 9 that says this exact thing?

    Elliot Fleming - Contestar

    STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

    Ashley Lahm - Contestar

    The little clip is an utter “#*+}{ to refit. I gave up and put a drop of hot glue on or you could use blue tack. Makes no difference. Phone works fine.

    blackettfenwicks - Contestar

    I gave up assembling this little bracket and left it out. phone’s been working fine for past 10 minutes. I wonder if this will be a problem later though.

    rkain.kim - Contestar

    As has been well noted, reassembly of this clip is not self-evident. The clip itself is not a symmetrical piece; rather, it has a small tab on one side. What is its purpose and what is the correct alignment of the tab as it’s placed over the connector? Moreover, the available iFixit tools are not adequate to align and place into correct position, especially considering the restricted space (and light) to work in. After studying the problem, I decided to use a piece of rope caulk (used for weatherstripping) with its sticky texture to hold the clip in correct alignment before pressing it into final position.

    Peter Hartwick - Contestar

    As put so eloquently by many wise ones before me, that bracket is a %^#* to get back in. My approach was to put the needlenose tweezer tips through the two holes in the top, and push gently in the direction of the top of the phone as I applied downward pressure. With luck, I had it lined up JUST right on my 947th try, and it snapped right into place. Yikes.

    Max Discher - Contestar

    Got a message saying Touch ID couldn’t be activated. Reseated and back to normal.

    Instead of just lifting the screen to reassemble the clip you can turn the screen sideways so that it’s no longer covered.

    Stephen Shaw - Contestar

    The clip is not symmetrical! The side with one snap goes towards the speakers. CAREFULLY use the tweezers to gently set the clip down with the correct orientation. Then use the spudger to press it into place. (Sometimes one side, then the other side.)

    Take your time.

    Annette - Contestar

    Reassembly: It’s very often that you get the cable to snap to the connector on the board, but find that the device doesn't work properly. In most cases, re-seating the cable fixes the problem. S

    Sometimes, it's a bent pin on the connector, and then you have a problem… While I have been able to fix desktop CPU socket pins, I have never tried to fix a busted surfaces mount connector like these. I don't know if that's possible.

    Boyd Waters - Contestar

  12. iPhone 5s 电池更换, 断开Home键电线连接器: paso 12, imagen 1 de 2 iPhone 5s 电池更换, 断开Home键电线连接器: paso 12, imagen 2 de 2
    • 用塑料撬棒尖轻轻把home键电线连接器从接口中撬出来。

    • 确保你把电线连接器从接口分离开来,但不要把整个接口撬起来。这个接口本身是粘在电线上的,如果你不是太小心,很容易把它撬起来。

    Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

    Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

    Keystone - Contestar

    Reassembly:

    The original part bends the bottom home button connector back on itself into a bracket you have to remove (not mentioned in later steps).

    That bracket has a bit of adhesive to keep the bottom connector in place.

    The replacement part does not come with a bracket, or additional adhesive, so the bottom connector flops around & can make reassembly a challenge. I found it was best to hold right edge of the bottom in place w/1 finger, and use a 2nd finger to slide the upper cable connector left to right and click it into place.

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    Also worth mentioning is that upon reassembly, make sure that the home button cable folds to the left (away from the side with the SIM card) as the front panel will not fit properly otherwise.

    Brian Riess - Contestar

    这个地方必须小心,我上次就把底部接口搞坏了,害我换个电池的同时还换了一个尾插

    Zhou Lin - Contestar

    非常感谢!我正在准备更换朋友的电池。你的提醒很有用~

    Liu bing -

    STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

    Ashley Lahm - Contestar

    The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful.

    There is a mistake into the sentence …is on its own A glued-down cable…

    Diederik Wiersma - Contestar

    itself is even better

    kind regards

    Diederik Wiersma - Contestar

    put a piece of tape over the edge so you don’t rip the cable out like I did. I replaced the battery a few years ago and the screen came out muck easier. this time I broke the cable. Good-bye touch ID and iPhone 5S now I can only unlock the screen with a full reboot and home button is gone. to the trash can it goes! had it many years.

    ethan briggs - Contestar

  13. iPhone 5s 电池更换, 打开手机: paso 13, imagen 1 de 3 iPhone 5s 电池更换, 打开手机: paso 13, imagen 2 de 3 iPhone 5s 电池更换, 打开手机: paso 13, imagen 3 de 3
    • 一旦连接器被撬开了后,把home键底端从机身上拉起,把手机顶端当做一个转动支点。

    • 把显示屏立起来,保持跟机身成90度角。在你维修手机的过程中一直保持这个状态。

    • 用橡皮筋把显示屏如图三所示固定住。这会避免在维修过程中显示屏电缆的损坏。

    • 如有必要,你可以拿旁边顺手的、有一定重量的东西来固定显示屏,如未开的易拉罐瓶子。

    maak een constructie waar de iPhone in valt en waarbij het scherm in een hoek van 90 graden kan worden gefixeerd, dan hoef je drie kabeltjes niet los te maken. Is mij heel goed gelukt .

    Joop Roos - Contestar

    Out of curiosity I decided to use google translate…here it is in English. “make a construction where the iPhone falls and the screen can be fixed at a 90 degree angle, you do not have to unlock three cables. I did very well.”

    Kelly Ann - Contestar

    Take a look at 3rd pic in step #13. Letting U know that this is basically what Joop Roos was trying to say. I tried it and it works very well, with one caveat: as U continue to work on your phone, it may move around a bit. Mine did, and after new battery was connected I moved phone around enough to accidentally press the button on top and it booted while the screen was still rubber banded to the box. I removed rubber bands and waited till I could touch “cancel” then pressed and held top button till the “slide to power off” thing showed up on the screen and then did so. After completion, everything was good with no problems. I think I was lucky. Please be mindful if U use this method of not disconnecting these cables in top right area.

    Siegfried - Contestar

    No need to remove the screen or any cable except that which is directly connected to the home button!!! just prop it open the phone with screen facing up, an angle of about 45 to 60 degrees will give enough working space to remove and replace the home button.

    The trickiest part is connecting the home button cable and getting its retaining clip in place.

    Dickon - Contestar

    We found the opening was not exactly easy to 90°, finally it did open completely. Be careful on the last degrees, the cables may pull little bit on the metal piece you are about to unmount in the next step. No worries, all worked fine. Just - be gentle with the cables when opening.

    Bernd Saegmueller - Contestar

    I was unable to remove one of the screws, but removing one and then just pivoting the battery connector bracket worked just fine.

    Gary Carlson - Contestar

    I think the little tabs at the top of my front panel assembly broke at this step. I found two little pieces of plastic inside the phone later on, and now, with everything finished and put back together, the top of the screen is a little loose: it’s seated 1-2mm too high and moves in when I press it.

    Maybe I should have pulled the top of the assembly out of the rear case, before hinging it up?

    Jacob Rosen - Contestar

    Kleine opmerking: correct Nederlands voor “blikje drinken” is “drankblikje”.

    flitsdoortstad - Contestar

    I took a spudger and proped up the screen with that. Works great!

    guardian10 - Contestar

  14. iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 14, imagen 1 de 1
    • 从逻辑主板移除两个固定金属电池接口卡扣的1.6 mm #000号菲利普斯(十字)螺丝。

    I don't see why steps 14, 15, and 16 are even necessary. I was able to remove the scene without removing the battery (skipping these 3 steps)

    Luke Lin - Contestar

    See Jonathan Goldsmith's comment ;)

    Didier Daniel -

    Working on the phone without removing the battery will most likely damage the component. My OnePlus One runs extremely slow after working on it without removing the battery. I think it's a problem with the GPU, because the display was very slow to update the screen contents.

    Peter Pan - Contestar

    Pan is right. Not removing the battery means you will run the risk of shorting some circuits not meant to be connected, and thus can damage those components. This can happen very easily, and without you even knowing it. Additionally, the internal components of a digital device are not meant to be disconnected while having any amount of power applied(and even though your device may not even turn on because the battery is completely shot, there very likely will still be a small amount of power coming from the battery to the internal components of the device). Doing so will likely cause an overcurrent condition that will damage the components of the device.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Contestar

    Now my problem, however, is that the screws on this bracket do not seem to want to unscrew. :(

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Contestar

    Okay, the problem would seem to have been with the screwdriver that came with my iFixit battery "Fix kit". Tried another screwdriver, and no problems at all.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Contestar

    Phillips #000 provided with the iFixit repair kit does not fit the screws

    Vitaly Kirichenko - Contestar

    I agree the #000 Phillips driver didn't work. I happened to already have a #0 Phillips that did work much better.

    Bruce Peffley -

    The screwdriver that came with the kit worked fine for me when I applied pressure with my palm to the end of the driver and turned the driver with my forefinger and thumb

    Tom Gleason - Contestar

    The ifixit #000 works…if you put an uncomfortable amount of pressure on the driver. Yikes. Use a larger bit if you’ve got it.

    Chris Wiley - Contestar

    i damaged the bottom screw with the phillips00 ifixit screwdriver :-(

    Pierre - Contestar

    It’d be nice if the iFixit people could address this problem with the PH000 driver. I am afraid of stripping the screw head because the PH000 I was sent doesn’t come close to catching in the screw head.

    orders - Contestar

    If you are having an issue with the PH#000 bit included with your iFixit Fix Kit then you can contact our customer support team at support@ifixit.com.

    Tom Gantt - Contestar

    The two screws are not exactly same size. (But very similar)

    If you switch them you’ll have issues with Bluetooth. I’m sorry but I don’t remember where is going the longer screw.

    pfx - Contestar

    With my phone I needed to use a PH0000 screwdriver. The provided PH000 (and my own from another screwdriver set) was too large. Indeed, every Phillips head screw in my phone needed the PH0000 and not the PH000 driver.

    rhowehmd - Contestar

    The video does not show this step, they go directly to the screen disassembly. Being that I was following the video, I did not disconnect the battery, and now it does not boot. :-( Thanks iFixit video .

    Robert Helgason - Contestar

    My screws seemed stripped, and when I went back to tighten it the scfrews got stuck, eventually one broke in the scoket. So I can’t screw down this protector. What does it do? Can I just get rid of it? Tap it down? Ideally Id have some eletrical tape and tape it down. But I don’t, and I just wanna toss it. AFraid it is important, or protects a circuit by conducting electricity

    Patrick Yerkes - Contestar

    I pretty consistently get the message, “unable to activate touch id on this iphone” if I connect the battery before connecting the group of cables in the upper right corner. It seems that if those are reattached while the battery is plugged in I see the touch ID error. Connecting the battery after connecting the upper-right corner group of cables has consistently helped. YMMV of course.

    David Brown - Contestar

    I don´t even have the logic board (if thats the silvery thing that the screws are keeping in place). Is the phone going to work without it?

    Hey hermano - Contestar

    I don’t understand you folks having problems with the #000 bit? I removed the screws without even thinking about it. My problem is the little antenna connector getting disconnected when I lifted the bracket plate! I mentioned it in Step 15

    jtreepro - Contestar

  15. iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 15, imagen 1 de 1
    • 接着移除iPhone金属电池接口挡片。

    Not clear to me why this and the next step are necessary for a screen replacement...

    Daniel Goldschmidt - Contestar

    Well, for one, Daniel, this is a BATTERY replacement tutorial. ???

    jtreepro -

    Using the iFixit tweezers to remove the bracket caused a spark. I used the plastic spudger instead.

    Bryan Remely - Contestar

    Is this tutorial or the iPhone SE? The battery should be 1624mAh but these pictures go back and forth between showing 1510and 1560mAh. Why are pictures showing different batteries, and why isn't it showig the 1624mAh for the 5 SE?

    Someone Somewhere - Contestar

    After installing the New iPhone 5s Lightning Connector Replacement I noticed there was no foam on top of the new plug, leaving bare metal exposed. I cut a small piece of electricians tape to be placed on top of the new plug to keep it from coming in contact with the metal battery connector bracket

    Scott Nacke - Contestar

    GENTLY DISCONNECT BOTH CONNECTORS, IMMEDIATELY AFTER REMOVING METAL BATTERY CONNECTOR BRACKET (and not just the one as outlined in following step…)

    c0BRA - Contestar

    WHY? That is totally unnecessary!?!

    jtreepro -

    Battery connector bracket lifts out easily with fingernail (non-conductive, no sparks). Top screw (closer to hinge) is shorter. I taped both to a labelled piece of paper with Magic Plus 811 removable transparent tape.

    keesan - Contestar

    I can’t believe nobody has mentioned that the little antenna connector (visible here just to the right of the metal battery connector’s female screw socket, covered with a tiny piece of foam) might be stuck to the metal bracket, and come loose when you remove said bracket. It’s a challenge to get the foam off of it (for visibility), and reconnect! I have no suggestions to make it easier except to be patient! You’ll get it, but my SE almost got tossed across the room trying! ;-)

    jtreepro - Contestar

  16. iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 16, imagen 1 de 2 iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 16, imagen 2 de 2
    • 使用平头撬棒小心地把电池接口从逻辑板的槽内撬出来。

    • 注意,只是撬出电池接口,而不是撬出逻辑主板上的槽口。如果你撬出了槽口,你可能会损坏接口甚至损坏主板上的其他元件。

    Skip steps17-22. Just be extra careful and secure the screen. Less to go wrong the less you open.

    William Stein - Contestar

    Also order the headband magnifier. It really helps with the tiny components you are working with.

    William Stein - Contestar

    A way to skip step 17-22

    I unfolded as next step the display in a perpendicular way (so display unit and rest of the device in 90°) and fixed the display with an elastic band at an opened iPhone packaging box. Then I continued directly at step 23 with the removal of the battery without removing the display unit at all. Worked very well without any problems… and now I’m curious whether the new battery really powers the device for a longer time :-)

    Rolf Enderes - Contestar

    I also skipped the step of removing the dispaly, instead using a rubber band to secure the display to the iPhone box. Worked great, and avoided the hassle of disconnecting the display.

    Daniel Melchior - Contestar

    I skipped this step and I also removed my display. I don’t know what will happen in the future but there’s no problems till now...

    Ran Mika (Tshukimi Elune) - Contestar

    I didn’t realize that each of the photos contained different steps until later on, (the photos look very similar to each other in the thumbnails), and so I don’t think I removed the 2nd part of the battery attachment as its in the 2nd photo. I figured it out later, but only after step 20, which requires that the battery is fully disconnected before doing. Oops!

    Everything else went well though, and I’ve since reinstalled the battery, drained it, and recharged, and it seems to be fine. Will cross my fingers and hope I didn’t damage anything.

    Nancy Zan - Contestar

    If you do remove the display, it is helpful before removing the four diffferently sized screws to tape down a piece of masking tape, sticky side up, and remove them in a defined order, sticking them to the tape as you go. Then there’s no chance of mixing them up when you re-assemble.

    john lawn - Contestar

    Agree with William Stein above. Skip Steps 17-22. Simply secure the top of your phone with a rubber band to something sturdy. A 14 oz. can of kidney beans will do. I followed all of the other directions and the repair went smoothly and I didn’t lose Touch ID functionality. It was not necessary to heat my phone to remove the adhesive strips. I simply gently stretched and continually pulled at the base of the adhesive strip. Was rather surprised at how easy it was. Hardest part is re-attaching the home button cable connector and re-inserting the Touch ID cable bracket. When it’s time to reassemble those parts, be sure to go back through Steps 9-12, reading all of the comments for helpful tips. Used a Disney-Pixar-like desk lamp for good lighting and, also, the back of a refrigerator magnet to place the screws while working.

    CMac - Contestar

    Skip or Not to Skip, that is the question.

    I opted to skip the screen removal at first. Only when I had to replace the adhesive strips did I change my mind. Looking at the adhesive removal page, I believe the freedom of movement allowed without the screen in the way is key to successfully applying the adhesive strips.

    xtian -

    Screen removal is unnecessary, and avoids many opportunities for damage and trouble! I rubber banded the display to a small jar of peanut butter, and removed and replaced the battery with no issues. The adhesive strip on the outside pulled right out, but the inside one broke. I was able to pry the battery up enough to fish out the broken strip and pull the rest out. Replaced the battery, and all is well!

    Gary Loper -

    I followed the directions of pulling the tabs and I just went super slow and continued to move my placement down lower and closer to the base of the battery and wow came out so clean nothing to even scrape off. I did an iPhone 5 but it didn't have this adhesive. The battery was barely stuck inside so I got lucky being that the battery was swollen. Apple actually gave me a new iPhone 5 when my phones battery was swollen during the Apple 5 bad battery replacement.

    Heather - Contestar

    it seems very strange this step’s instruction does not mention the 4 microscopic components on the motherboard next to the socket on the opposite side to the battery. If you put your plastic pry tool all the way into the gap between the connector and the metal shield you are going to pop them off the board and they are so small you won’t ever notice this or feel it. There are plenty of posts on the internet asking “why did my 5s stop charging after I successfully repaired the screen” and this is a really common reason. Put your pry tool in the minimum amount to just catch the metal plate on the top of the connector to avoid this.

    James - Contestar

    I too must agree with James about inserting the pry tool. If you insert it at that angle, you run the very high chance of poping off components that are located between that gap. Those components aren’t just ‘nearby’, they’re IN that gap! There’re several YouTube vids about the replacement of those components and it is not for the faint of heart. One is a coil (you ‘can’ place a jumper across) and the other is either a resister or a capacitor and those must be replaced.

    Player Onesix - Contestar

    These 3 capacitors and especially one ferrite bead are real problem. Screwed 2 phones up, one totally dead the other one managed to get battery online again.

    Pry battery connector open either with tweezers from flex cable side or from the side of long connector (speaker, lightining port connector).

    Step 16 on photos is 50/50% success.

    valdek - Contestar

    I actually find that using your fingernail works brilliantly. just place your nail under the connector where you will feel a slight lip. this lets you know that you have just the connector and nothing else. then just pull up slightly and the connector pops off. Worked a treat for me first time and this is my 3rd SE i have opened now.

    Geoff King - Contestar

    I’ve destroyed components on logic board during this step as my pry tool tocuhed the board when prying. Now the phone won’t charge. Be extra careful.

    Betonos - Contestar

    Actually the pictures seem to be the same as iPhone 5S and not the SE although there are certainly differences. Specially on the battery connector.

    iFixit should add another note that warns the users of the delicate components next to the battery connector. They can easily pop and cause battery charging problems.

    shoeib - Contestar

    You guys need to put a warning here for those micro components in front of the connector. I hit one and now my phone restarts randomly.

    Jacob Hess - Contestar

    These Demo Pics really ought to be Directly Above the device/area of focus…

    Considering the perspective of pic(s), it is entirely probable for user to uncouple, seemingly similar, Lightning connector cable directly next to Battery Connector. Just to be safe, without incurring any additional risk or time to your BATTERY Repair:

    DISCONNECT BOTH CONNECTORS, IMMEDIATELY AFTER REMOVING METAL BATTERY CONNECTOR BRACKET (in previous step, #15).

    The Red Text Warning in this step is a bit confusing, but it’s definitely not referring to the ++Lightning connector cable++ (directly next to Battery Connector). And if you mistakenly uncouple one and not the [batt connector] other, like I did, You’ll Most Certainly Corrupt the (FL2400) Ferrite Bead Filter, While Attempting to Gently Pry heated (old) Battery From It’s Seat; Rendering your device’s charging capabilities Null.

    re: Is this what a damaged FL11 looks like on a iPhone SE?

    c0BRA - Contestar

    For reassembly, I had trouble getting the battery connector re-seated, because it had pulled out with the bracket, and I didn’t see its original placement. There a two (or three?) small gold dots just above (toward the top of the phone) where the top edge fits — so make sure those dots are visible when you’re trying to place the connector. Also, it fits a bit to the right edge of the phone (away from the battery), compared with the piece above it.

    Zora O'Neill - Contestar

    iPhone SE:

    Your guide shows exactly the WRONG way to pry off the battery connector. NEVER pry along the right edge of the connector, and NEVER attack the connector from a high angle. This deadly combo is almost guaranteed to break components.

    Pry the connector at the narrow edge furthest from the home button where there is nothing to damage, and use a shallow angle of attack so the pry force is mostly upwards.

    tns - Contestar

    We have just fallen foul of this too. The photo showing the prising off of the battery connector is, as the previous comment says, completely wrong and will result in damaging the tiny components just in front of the connector which is exactly what happened to us. Wish we’d read these comments but we assumed the photos and description were correct…..%#*@ !

    Ed Griffiths - Contestar

    Alles funktioniert bis auf das Aufladen. Statusanzeige: "5% geladen". Beim Betrieb ab Ladekabel startet das iPhone nach 1 Minute neu. Hätte ich eure Kommentare vorher gelesen, hätte ich es vermutlich nicht vermurkst!

    hagilu - Contestar

  17. iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 17, imagen 1 de 1
    • 移除以下螺丝,这些螺丝把前面板组件上的挡板贴片固定到逻辑主板:

    • 一个1.7 mm 菲利普斯(十字) #000号螺丝

    • 一个1.2 mm 菲利普斯(十字) #000号螺丝

    • 一个1.3 mm 菲利普斯(十字) #000号螺丝

    • 又一个1.7 mm菲利普斯(十字) #000号螺丝

    • 这个1.7 mm螺丝不能使用有磁力的螺丝刀吸起。在移除的时候请不要弄丢了。

    • 为了重新组装,在这一步记录你的螺丝位置是相当重要的。在右边底洞错误使用1.3mm螺丝或1.7mm螺丝将会对逻辑主板造成巨大损坏,以致于不能够正常启动。

    • 注意不要把螺丝拧得过紧。如果当你固定它们的时候不能轻易适合,有可能螺丝装错位置了,不要硬装。

    Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

    CLAUDE - Contestar

    Hi Claude,

    Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

    So, I was wondering:

    1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

    2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

    3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

    Thanks in advance.

    Regards,

    Cornel.

    corneliumusat -

    Can anyone answer if the blue strips on the crews indicate which screws they are? They are all so small it's hard to find the right lengths for each hole

    Ariel Drotter -

    Does anyone know if the blue strips on the screws indicate their length? I'm finding it very hard to distinguish the lengths

    Ariel Drotter -

    @Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

    iGuys -

    Hi Everyone,

    Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

    The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

    Hope this helps.

    Regards,

    Cornel.

    corneliumusat - Contestar

    The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

    RayBob - Contestar

    Upside-down masking tape also works well, especially when labelled with corresponding step for each bit of parts!

    W Fleming -

    i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

    William Boggs - Contestar

    The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

    If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

    Please change all the versions including this step.

    Louis Torres - Contestar

    I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

    lambdahindiii - Contestar

    I completely agree with lambdahindiii, skip steps 11 - 16 completely. You do have to be careful not to flip open the display, but it's manageable with some care.

    I will give disclaimer that I used 3.0x magnification with surgical loupes. Any kind of magnification will help. Also recommend using an LED head lamp for optimal illumination.

    wmlee1 -

    I'm going to upvote the suggestion to skip steps 11- 16 too.

    Some things to look out for:

    - Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

    - The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

    - To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

    Take your time and good luck all

    wilten -

    I agree. The steps to remove the display are unnecessary. I skipped these and had no issues.

    Matt Reier -

    On my phone it actually seems like one of the 1.7mm screws is non-magnetic (the other 3 screws are magnetic). Although this could be a botched repair job from a previous owner...

    I guess if it's intentional, it should be the top-right one, as that is closest to the compass IC.

    woods81 - Contestar

    You're right. The top right screw must be non-ferrous stainless. I've repaired tons of the5-5s and that screw is never magnetic.

    BJS -

    You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

    Drtofu -

    Apparently it is non magnetic so as not to interfere with the compass. The iPhone 6 has moved tis down to the bottom near the battery connector.

    Jack -

    I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

    shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

    what is the correct way?

    alexaamo91 - Contestar

    i had the 'blue screen of death' and here was my workaround:

    Apple logo then blue screen

    kgale4 -

    I was wondering exactly the same thing why we need to un-screw the screen? Anyway place the screws in the order they come and you should find no problems putting them back in right order.

    Also I found the screw driver comes with ifixit battery kit does not fit in the screws perfectly. Feeling a little large for these screws. Anyone else had the same experience?

    fredhdx - Contestar

    Because this guide is for more than one repair option instead of them having to type out several this fits in for replacment of screen. I didn't hav the kit but my #000 wasn’t the best for all I used a #00 just depends on if the tip isn't real pointy

    Heather -

    The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

    mnoivad - Contestar

    Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

    Pete H - Contestar

    I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

    Daylen - Contestar

    Putting the upper screws back in the bracket is a bit tricky--if you hold the screen at 90 degrees, the connector cables lift up the loose bracket, but if you lower the screen to allow the bracket to lay flat, you can't reach with a screw driver. Be very slow and patient and replace the upper left screw last (after the first three are tight)--these will hold down the bracket fairly well so you can aim the last (upper left) screw into the hole and push down as you tighten.

    bartonh - Contestar

    That is exactly how I did it; good hint. Thanks.

    Andre Silva -

    So I managed to loose the top right (non magnetic) screw. I saw it fall to the table, but it's gone. Wonder if it fell back into the phone, as there is a slight rattle sound when I shake it. Will there be any big surprises if I just reassemble without that screw?

    larserikkolden - Contestar

    How did it turn out? I lost the same screw.

    Austin Packard -

    If you keep the top steady these steps (17-22) could be skipped. That's how I did. Everything is ok.except screwdriver didn't undo upper one of the battery bracket I had to bend the bracket.

    Mehmet Hakan - Contestar

    I noticed that reassembling my device, if the metal bracket touch the hole of the 1.3mm screw the touch stopped working. I had to put a little piece of plastic between the hole and the bracket unable to put the screw in (or it would make contact between the hole and the bracket).

    Any suggestion?

    denis.g.94 - Contestar

    Hi Denis, could you be a bit more specific as to which metal bracket you are referring to please? also, where did you put the piece of plastic? Thank you.

    jamesmclachlan -

    Denis, could you be more specific please? Which metal bracket causes the problem and where did you put the piece of plastic?

    I have the same problem, (lost touch screen function).

    jamesmclachlan -

    Trying to get the screws into the holes and driving them in was extraordinarily challenging due in large part to their magnetic bond. Screws didn't want to leave the driver, once they were in they flew right back out as soon as the driver came within distance. To combat this, I suggest using a thin, clear tape (I used packing tape) cut into 4 strips and place each screw flat side down on one end of each strip of tape. Now you can easily maneuver and securely hold the screws into their holes as the driver pierces the tape easily screwing them in without losing them or your mind. Also, fridge magnets are good to retrieve screws that have fallen into iPhone's nooks and crannies, likewise from carpeting.

    James Lee - Contestar

    After aligning the bracket over the screw holes, I used the tweezers to pick the screw on its head and position it in the hole. Then, it was not difficult to use the screwdriver to fasten it.

    Andre Silva -

    If I messed up the screw placement, can it be redone and fixed by putting the screws back in prober order?

    Colm Noone - Contestar

    Like James Lee (above), I found reinserting the tiny screws quite difficult because the magnetic screwdriver would pull them out, with the screw adhering to the screwdriver at odd angles. What worked was to insert a screw with tweezers, then START the screw using the non-magnetic plastic pointy tool while holding down the plate so the screw could turn easily. Once the screw was started, I tightened it with the screwdriver.

    Sandy Trevor - Contestar

    Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!..

    yaterbob - Contestar

    The iFixit Kit I bought does NOT have the right screw driver to remove these screws. Neither phillips screwdrivers work - the point is much too sharp and does not grip the screw at all. Not happy with this purchase right now.

    Richard - Contestar

    Color coding the screw heads is an excellent idea. I used red for red - green for green - and black for orange - left the yellow one uncolored. Did a screen capture and labeled it to avoid confusion.

    Leonard - Contestar

    Also color a small area around the screws on the cable bracket. Makes it real easy to see which screw goes where.

    Leonard -

    I found out that you don’t need the 1.7mm screw. The shorter one will do and I don’t lose bluetooth.

    patjmccarthy - Contestar

    I used colored sharpies to keep track of the screws. I color coded the screw heads and around their holes. Worked like a charm.

    Brigham Okano - Contestar

    I managed to loose the socket of the green screw. Apparently, during my second disassembly of my iPhone the socket (which appears to be screwed in as well) came loose without me noticiing it and promptly vanished later on in the process, never to be seen again. The iPhone does seem to work without it, but still, I’d advise checking that they are still in place when you unmount the metal shield.

    Sven Siggelkow - Contestar

    Erroneamente ho sbagliato la combinazione delle viti e mi si è danneggiata l’iPhone.. che parte devo cambiare ?

    garino1990 - Contestar

    You do not actually have to remove the screen to replace the battery. Just tilt up the screen at a 60 degree angle from the phone and tape it open or have someone hold it up. That way you don’t have to flex the screen wires or inadvertently damage anything.

    Imre Treufeld - Contestar

    I also completed this repair successfully without removing the screen. I kept the screen at a 90 degree angle using the iPhone’s box and a rubber band as pictured in Step 13. I was nervous about bumping it while doing the rest of the steps and stretching the display cables too much, but it worked.

    garygrossman - Contestar

    If anyone is still using the dino-aged iphone 5s like me ;) , please follow the steps rather than the video patiently before putting it into action. The screw placement is extremely crucial during reassemble. I messed the screws up the first time and had problems with touch screen, it wasn’t working. Then I disassembled again. I was lucky to have sufficient eyesight to figure out the 1.7 mm screws - both magnetic and non-magnetic ones. In case of of lower left screw, I put the one I felt (!) the bigger one, and at the end, left the lower right hole unscrewed. It’s working fine now.

    Ananya Roy - Contestar

    I removed the screws and placed them on a white piece of paper in the orientation they belonged in and then removed the bracket covering the cables (step 18). At this point, looking at the 3 cables I needed to remove I thought one of these likely won’t go back on correctly and will be disabled. I had the screen securely at 90 degrees to the base using a juice glass and rubber band so I decided to put the bracket back on and skip to step 23. I wish I had thought of that before removing the screws as these are some tiny screws. It was difficult to see which end was the screw head and get it placed on the screwdriver for inserting into the hole. For the green (nonmagnetized) screw I used the tweezers to get it in the hole and then screwed it in.

    Gary Grinstead - Contestar

    Alas my screws got muddled without me realising and a long one went on the bottom right (as per the warning in the article). When you say “will result in damage”, would either of these count? 1) trapped in a cycle of booting with the white apple logo or 2) trapped in a loop of white apple logo followed by red screen

    Thanks, James

    James - Contestar

    I would think so. Even just lines could be damage to logic board. I got the screws figured out using the link I posted above as a guide to measure but my new screen won’t do anything. I bought it from eBay and I replaced battery first. I could see back light on broken screen prior to replacement and I get the chime when plugged in but absolutely nothing on the screen. I was very careful with the ribbon cables as it comes with them completely flat so I just seated the cables and slowly moved the screen to a 90 degree angle. Could I have broken something's in the ribbon cable?? Or maybe just pos screen? Read comments on seller after this noted is not oem and others had problems. s it possible to conn to iTunes and maybe fix problem if it’s a software issue? I don’t know what else to do at this point. Any help I should appreciated

    Heather -

    One doesn’t actually HAVE to remove the display. But it does make the removal of the battery easier, at it is very well glued to the back case.

    jimbbo - Contestar

    I didn’t set the screws aside so I had to measure which is super hard but here’s a link to an online free ruler and it has a command icon for you to input show me 1.7mm and then you can match up screw lengths. The website is https://www.ginifab.com/feeds/cm_to_inch...

    i hope this helps for anyone who removed the panel without reading the important steps first and i’m female lol.

    Heather

    Heather - Contestar

    As mentioned, the screws are difficult to re-install. I found that sitting the screw on its head on the table and pressing down with my finger the screw will be set on your finger, head up. Then carefully put Philips driver into screw slot. It should come away and easily inserted into bracket.

    wdbowers - Contestar

    WRONG !!!

    The ONLY 1,7mm it's at the top left corner. All OTHERS are 1.3 mm. The 1.7mm it tue other screw under this part.

    I broke my phone because of this.

    Samuel Roy - Contestar

    is it necessary to put back this plate after reattached screen , cuz i didn’t , for futures swaps

    Nikolai Nikolov - Contestar

    With my phone I needed to use a PH0000 screwdriver. The provided PH000 (and my own from another screwdriver set) was too large. Indeed, every Phillips head screw in my phone needed the PH0000 and not the PH000 driver.

    rhowehmd - Contestar

    Don’t do it. Don’t do this step. With some gentle care you can get the battery replaced without ever removing the four tiny screws from !&&*.

    Bryce Nesbitt - Contestar

    This step and all the steps through 22 are not needed for replacing lighting connector- don’t know why they’re on this guide.

    Elijah Underhill-Miller - Contestar

    I totally agree with Elijah, I had to do this repair 3 times today and after the first time I realised that steps 17 to 22 are not necessary if you can find some way of keeping the screen upright. I propped my screen up using a flat headed toothpick and it worked fine providing you are careful.

    Micky McGuinness -

    Auf die Schritte 17 - 22 habe ich ebenfalls verzichtet.

    Den Akku konnte ich mit hochgeklappten Display entfernen.

    Die Klebestreifen sind zwar gerissen, aber mit Fön und sanfter Gewalt hat es funktioniert.

    Der neue Akku hat laut iMazing sogar 1736 mAh :-)

    beemer - Contestar

    I would agree with Bryce Nesbitt. DO NOT do these steps if all you’re going to do is replace the battery. Having disconnected and reconnected all this stuff, which absolutely was not needed to get the battery out, my touchscreen is no longer working and there’s a weird grid pattern all over the screen, which suggests to me that at least one of the connectors isn’t seated properly, so I’m going to have to do this all over again.

    Let me reiterate: DO NOT DO THIS IF ALL YOU WANT IS TO REPLACE THE BATTERY. Skip straight to step 23 where you start work to remove the battery adhesive tab and strips.

    bart.read - Contestar

    I’m sure someone can correct me, but this is my experience. The 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw in the top right might be demagnetised for a reason. When I tried a magnetised screw in that position I found that I got a distinct yellowish tinge on my screen in the same place. So I removed the screw (couldn’t find the original as it disappeared off the face of the earth!), and re-assembled the phone without it.

    Don’t have any problems as far as I see having only 3 screws holding the bracket down…

    semmons - Contestar

    I had the 4 screws all neat and separated, then accidentally got a super-strong rare earth magnet too close to them, and they were all mixed up. To determine the difference between the 1.3 and 1.2, I pulled out calipers. I found both of mine to be 1.1 mm, so they weren’t different lengths. Also, all 4 of mine were attracted to the magnet.

    Robb M - Contestar

    Eek. I didn’t have access to this guide when taking my phone apart. I mostly access the internet on my phone as my laptop is super slow. I watched the YouTube video on my smart TV while doing the repair. So I didn’t know the screws were different sizes, they all looked pretty teeny tiny to me. Makes sense now that the top left one is longer, I got a bit frustrated trying to get that one in, and ended up putting it in last so the others would hold the plate in position. I do remember one didn’t stick to the screwdriver, and I actually dropped this one into the iPhone and then on the mottled carpet when I shook it out, but found it after a long search. Then I just put the screws in however they came to me. I hope they ended up okay. I already did it twice because the screen had lines on when I finished, and I also managed to inadvertently disconnect the on/off button and not reconnect properly. Need to make them click.

    PS I’m not sure you sufficiently stressed the importance of the screw order in the video.

    Jody - Contestar

    Good to know about the screw lengths. This section could have a larger font warning to carefully store the the screws in the right orientation, in separate compartments. I didn’t notice the notes on screw size until after I put all 4 screws in one compartment. I had to line up the screws (upside down) and eyeball which appeared to be which lengths using a magnifying lens. It took a few minutes but I figured it out due to their relative sizes.

    tshoran@hotmail.com - Contestar

    Suggest using a Sharpie to color-code screws before removal. Color screw heads (matching Step 17 if you like) and add a color circle around each screw head.

    MotorMac - Contestar

  18. iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 18, imagen 1 de 1
    • 从逻辑主板上取下前面板挡板铁片。

    At my iPhone 5s this part is missing!

    Michael Schöttner - Contestar

    Vor dem wiedereinsetzten des Bleches ist es ratsam den Monitor und den Touchsreen zu testen. Ich habe bis hier alles wiederholen müssen wegen Balken im oberen Bereich des Monitors und hackelnder Touchfunktion.

    mit_dt - Contestar

  19. iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 19, imagen 1 de 2 iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 19, imagen 2 de 2
    • 用塑料平头撬棒或指甲把前置摄像头和感应器撬开。

    The flat end of the spudger works great to position and press down on the connectors during reassembly.

    Magnus Dalen - Contestar

    I did not try the spudger (but I think I should have), because this cable was the most difficult to me. It kept flipping (not aligning with the socket) and with one hand holding the screen and the other trying to connect was very difficult .

    Andre Silva -

    As shown in the picture, the cable needed to be pushed back with a bit of a bend to connect it during re-assembly

    Praveen Senadheera - Contestar

    During reassembly, it’s easier to reconnect by first placing the left side (close to battery) and then clicking it into place (than, say, top side first)

    Athanasius Pernath - Contestar

    In one of four iPhone SE ‘s on which I’ve done screen replacements, there was a rubber gasket left behind when I unplugged this cable. I was unable to seat the connector properly until I removed the gasket.

    Just adding in case you encounter this.

    Peter - Contestar

    Das Abbauen des Displays ist Schwachsinn da sich der Akku leicht auch tauschen lässt wenn das Display aufgeklappt mit einem Gummi

    an einer Getränkedose befestigt ist !

    Johannes Clauss - Contestar

    Important note: There are four connectors here but only three need removing. If you remove the one on the lower left just above the screw you’ll never get it back in. It connects to the motherboard, no the screen.

    Rusty - Contestar

    During reassembly, I found reattaching the front facing camera sensor cable to be the most difficult. I would recommend bending the cables to closely match those from the screen that your replacing. I know that sounds kindof funky , but I had difficulty lining it up.

    Jeffrey - Contestar

    Thanks for the gasket tip. I thought I was just crazy! Then pulled that gasket, and presto, it seated right away!

    Kent Alan Lee - Contestar

  20. iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 20, imagen 1 de 2 iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 20, imagen 2 de 2
    • 在进行此步骤前,分离电池。

    • 在支持前面板的同时,分离液晶电线连接器。

    • 当重新组装你的手机的时候,液晶电线可能会从连接器弹下来。这会造成重启手机时屏幕出现白线或黑屏。如果发生此情况,简单地重新连接这根电线,并重启手机。最好的重启手机的方式就是分离和重装电池。

    When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Contestar

    After some 4 seconds stripes start to appear and at the bottom a black band of some 3 mm horizontally over the screen. I've restarted, but it keeps showing a clean screen and then after a while the stripes and band start coming through. Is that a battery issue? And when I slide up the light intensity button, the screen starts shivering.

    Jules JUSTE - Contestar

    And in my wife’s samsung replacing a battery is so easy. I’ve wasted a whole evening and now have broken cables. I get to buy a new screen and no phone for a couple of days. What $@$* is Apple pullig on us here? :(

    Jules JUSTE - Contestar

    Because Apple wants you to just buy a new phone instead of replacing parts.

    Bryan Remely -

    No doubt about that.

    Bryan Thompson - Contestar

    What can I do

    i tried to remove the LCD CABLE WITH A METAL SCISSOR.

    NOW IT IS NOT WORKING.

    HOW TO REPLACE IT. CAN ANYONE HELP IN THAT

    Faheem Sameer - Contestar

    At the bottom and top are some hardly noticeable white stripes and an after reconnecting the cables 3 times with no difference I connected the old screen again. There were no stripes there… The cables on the new screen don’t look damaged. I’ve repaired other phone screens and I think my display has an issue… what should I do now?

    fele felix - Contestar

    So what happens if you don’t disconnect the battery before dis/reconnecting the LCD connector? Can you damage something irreversibly? I have what looks like a bad display ertifacts, lines, overall bustedness…) and am not sure if because I didn’t disconnect the battery…. I was following the lady in the video instead of the guide like an idiot…. She didn’t disconnect the battery. :P

    Tom - Contestar

    Same problem here (didn't disconnect the battery) my screen is just blank. Need help urgently

    Amina -

    What’s the problem with my phone? It shows the Apple Logo but it shows a black screen after. What happened?

    Marcus Jones - Contestar

    Touch screen not working after replacing home button?

    Gershkies - Contestar

    I have verticals red lines on my newly replaced screen….why?

    Jami Russell - Contestar

    Battery successfully replaced but screen had vertical lines. Re-seated LCD connector which fixed the lines problem. Got VERY FRUSTRATED trying to “slide” the Touch ID bracket over the cable connector, which I never managed to do. At some point, the screen stopped “working” and is now solid black. Re-seating the LCD connector didn’t help. How can I tell if I accidentally broke something along the way? Can I use a multimeter to find out?

    Carol Ramelb - Contestar

    I did not watch the Video replacing the 5s battery , but i did follow the directions given. I missed one important detail prior to removing the battery. I did not see the loop at the end of the battery so I ran the pointed end of the spudger along the battery. It took a long time to remove the battery using heat and bending the battery until I could get the adhesive strips off. The directions were a real asset and next time I will watch the video. Thanks! Your staff are the bests.

    MichaelW Parkman - Contestar

    Beware, it is easy to ruin the sockets on the SE motherboard, far easier than the 5s. Be extra careful pulling these cables.

    chumblyf - Contestar

  21. iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 21, imagen 1 de 2 iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 21, imagen 2 de 2
    • 最后,分离数字转换器电线连接器。

    When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

    Pete H - Contestar

    I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

    ilsedorec - Contestar

    pure genius, this works

    Oliver Markl -

    Reassembly—It’s all about the SNAP!

    I had the last-which-becomes-first connector down. Went to the second, and heard a very satisfying SNAP! Then, I became paranoid. Did the first connector snap? I don’t know?!? How did I put it down? What was that motion? What’s the level of the socket with its surroundings? Frack! I undid both, and the last connector gave a satisfying SNAP, when I disconnected it. HAHA. So now, I was paying close attention. I felt the level of the sockets, studied the Mondrian-like composition, and listened for the SNAP.

    xtian -

    xtian you king!

    IT REALLY IS ALL ABOUT THE SNAP

    After disconnecting and reconnecting the entire phone several times, my digitizer/touch screen still wasn’t working properly. In the end, it was all because I didn’t get the SNAP, which is the most important thing, especially with THIS connector. If you don’t hear the SNAP with this, it almost certainly won’t have worked. First time I did… hey presto!

    stick972 -

    Had to try 4 times until I finally got it right, I would say that less than 80° works well for this step, just take your time and be patient with the screws

    hermosillaignacio - Contestar

    It should be noted somewhere around these steps that all but one of these connections get removed.

    The connection that is left goes to the Power Button, the Mute Switch, and the Volume Buttons. This connection is on the bottom left, below the LCD power connection.

    This connector was not supposed to be removed, and I removed all of them as a force of habit.

    Once removed, it seems I removed part of the other half of the connector along with the first half.

    This has left my customer's iPhone functional, but none of the buttons, besides Home Button/TouchID), work.

    In the long run, this is not a huge issue, as AssistiveTouch can emulate physical button presses. I just figured it should be noted.

    Mikereilly2009 - Contestar

    Using the tool from the opposite side from what is shown here was many times easier (considering I had the front panel attach to a box with the rubber band trick)

    David - Contestar

    Agree, did the same thing.

    Andre Silva -

    After completing the battery replacement, when I turned the phone back on everything worked right except, the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen. Does anyone know how I can fix this???

    Melissa - Contestar

    After I replaced my battery, I turned the phone back on and everything worked except the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen now. Does anyone know what I did wrong??? I do I fix this???

    Melissa - Contestar

    I believe that you “bumped” the ribbon cable to the camera. I would open the phone back up and make sure it is making a good connection . In the picture above, the camera is the black square in the top right corner. Its connection is right below the spudger in this picture.

    Annette -

    For a better picture - The camera is connected by this ribbon:

    Reemplazo del cable del componente superior del iPhone 5s

    STEP# 28

    Annette -

    after battery replacing the Volume and Sleep buttons don’t work anymore. What I did wrong and what I can do to resolve the problem?

    Thanks

    Nicola - Contestar

    Step one is recheck your connections. If those are all solid, did you need to pry the battery up to remove it? It’s possible that the prying damaged the cables. If you have photos, share them on our Answers Forum, and you might get some better, more specific help!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I believe that you “bumped” the connection that is right below the spudger in this picture (it is a smaller connection than the one with the spudger on it and right next to the battery). Try opening the phone back up and making sure that button pad has a good connection. It is also the connection in this picture:  iPhone 5s Upper Component Cable Replacement. STEP # 25.

    Annette -

    I accidentally unplugged the power cable and although the digitizer cable is difficult to get plugged in, the power plug is a you know what!

    mcr4u2 - Contestar

    Reattaching the digitalizer connector is a ##&&% if you ty to keep the innards 90 degrees to the case using a rubber band and a box/can. Hold the innards in your hand to line up this connector. Once that is done the other two connections can be done with stabilized innards banded to a box/can.

    Dorothy Campbell - Contestar

    After replacing the battery on my iPhone SE (2016), the flash on the camera, the flashlight and the vibrate mode did not work. When I took it apart, this button assembly cable was not tight down. Reemplazo del cable del componente superior del iPhone 5s. STEP #25. It is also the connection right below the spudger in the picture. The smaller on close to the battery.

    Pushing it tight down and reassembly fixed all problems.

    Annette - Contestar

    After replacing the battery the touch screen doesn't work?? How do I fix this?

    SHVXIA - Contestar

  22. iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 22, imagen 1 de 1
    • 这个时候你就可以把前面板整个从机身分离了。

    I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

    I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

    For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

    As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.

    IMG LINK:

    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1608...

    Oscar Vera - Contestar

    Odd..my Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

    Bob smith -

    Dear Oscar,

    I am very interested in your comment but the photo is not available any more. Could you send the updated link?

    Thank you very much,

    Alex

    Alex -

    The link to your photo is still not available. I do not understand which screw is being referred to associated with the fingerprint sensor.

    Toby Parnell -

    To anybody wondering what the picture was, Internet Archive saved it. You can find it here: https://web.archive.org/web/201606120038...

    It’s also the same picture as the 2nd picture in Step 23.

    Bryan Remely -

    Bryan Remely thank you so much. It’s comment threads like this and contributors like you that make the internet such a valuable tool.

    WILL D -

    why cant u disconnect the lcd and just put the new one in reverse from step 16? wgy to step 32

    Cameron Shelley - Contestar

    When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Contestar

    thanks for that... I didn't even notice it until I saw your comment.

    Brian Hayes -

    I’m completely confused about removing the connectors to the screen. It looks to me as though the battery could come out with the screen still attached. How am I wrong?

    Lance - Contestar

  23. iPhone 5s 电池更换, 电池: paso 23, imagen 1 de 3 iPhone 5s 电池更换, 电池: paso 23, imagen 2 de 3 iPhone 5s 电池更换, 电池: paso 23, imagen 3 de 3
    • 在电池和耳机插孔之间使用撬棒的尖端来展开电池粘合片。

    When you put the new battery back in, it's important to fold that tab back down along the bottom edge of the battery--do not let the tab rest on top of the battery. If you do, that minute extra thickness is enough to press ever-so-slightly on the LCD and cause the LCD to exhibit color distortion when you press the home button.

    bartonh - Contestar

    You can't really see it in these pictures, but there is a small hole at one end of the "pull tab". This is just the right size hole for the pointy end of the apple tool spudger, and thus is very handy for pulling the tab out.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Contestar

    I used a toothpick to unfold the tab.

    Cassandra - Contestar

    I do not see any battery adhesive tab … Certainly nothing with any round hole in it … Now I am bummed…

    Please see my previous comments at Step # 9.

    No home button connector cable, no sign of any battery adhesive tab.

    It seems I am now stuck with a useless phone …. This did not help at all … I bought a kit that is no use, a new / replacement battery that I can’t even use … :-/

    Bummed ex- customer. Would not recommend ifixit for this idea.

    Alun Williams - Contestar

    If there’s no home button cable and no battery tabs, you don’t have a 5s. More likely you’re working on an iPhone 5.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I couldn’t find a tab either . I heated the bottom and pried the battery up and found the tap tucked underneath the battery. It would have helped for me to look at the new adhesive strips first as well so I could know what I was looking for.

    tina johnson -

    I applied heat as instructed. One strip pulled free; One strip broke :-( Fortunately, getting one strip out is sufficient. You can then gently get the battery out even with one strip in place.

    Don Libes - Contestar

    Instead of using the iOpener, I opted for my “patented” “Rice in a sock” and heated the sock for 1 minute, which worked perfectly. I laid the heated sock flat and used it as a mini work bench while removing the adhesive strip! My wife uses this for when she has head aches, which caused “me to not have a headache”, when peeling back the adhesive strips!

    iScott - Contestar

    Great idea!!!!!!!

    gibitzga -

    Thank you!

    “Rice in a Ziplock bag” worked perfectly. I was skeptical at first that the heat wouldn’t concentrate enough on the adhesive to soften it. I just rested the battery side on the bag of rice (1/2 cup basmati left over from a 20# bag of Y2K supplies :) and slowly lifted up on the left side of the battery CAREFULLY leveraging with the sponger over the left edge of the case (all the other sides of the battery have electronics that don’t need to be crushed. It took about 4 mins to pry my battery free.

    Daniel

    dleyes -

    I also had a folded over adhesive tab so I couldn’t pull it up as per the instructions. Heat, a guitar string and the flat end of the spudger working from the top helped, but it’s easy to bend and damage the battery. Take great care!

    Alastair Knights - Contestar

    Its deceptive in this photo but it is paper thin and parallel to the bottom end of the battery. I didn’t see it until I removed the battery the hard way

    Rusty - Contestar

    I tried to remove a Ray-O-Vac battery, and it had no tabs for the adhesive strips. Fortunately, I had heated it enough for the adhesive to release. I just hope I didn’t damage the battery cover trying to find the (nonexistent) tabs for the adhesive strips.

    Richard Hamner - Contestar

  24. iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 24, imagen 1 de 3 iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 24, imagen 2 de 3 iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 24, imagen 3 de 3
    • 移除电池粘合标签。

    • 切断并分离在两个粘合排线之间的黑色电池粘合标签。

    Got a face towel, wrapped in cling-film and microwaved until hot. Stood phone on it and adhesive comes out! Fantastic. Did rip the end of old battery off in process.

    Phil Rydin - Contestar

    When stretched, the adhesive strips I removed where quite long, probably 7-8 inches (stretched). Saying “many times its original length” leaves it too vague. You have to pull with constant, not abrupt, tension. Also, Pay attention to advice not to get the strips twisted, but to keep them flat…and not to pull at an angle where they can rub against and get caught on other board components.

    john lawn - Contestar

    The two white tapes immediately tore despite being very careful and following instructions to a T. Had to begin prying and bending battery free from top outside corner. Don’t pry from the inside (electronic components side). You’ll be likely to damage computer components. Use the metal outside frame of case to pry the battery. Once I was able to bend back the upper inch of the battery I was able to get hold of the white tapes and pull free. Removal of those adhesive strips was the biggest challenge of battery replacement. Amazing that we have phones in our pockets that have technology that surpasses all the computers that took us to the moon, and yet, developers aren’t able to come up with a more sophisticated an effective means to secure the batteries. Oh humanity, gotta love it.

    On a positive note: Kudos to iFixit for XLNT products, tools, tutorials and customer service!

    mammothko - Contestar

    I wouldn’t do the cut too early. Try to ease both white tapes out without breaking them an inch or so if possible. Its not easy getting the angle of pull right as you end up with very close quarters with some semisharp parts.

    Dorothy Campbell - Contestar

    Tipp: Vor dem “ziehen” am Klebestreifen 1-2 Tropfen ISO-Propanol zwischen Ansatz des Klebestreifens und des Akkus ca. ne Minute einwirken lassen. Das weicht den Streifen wieder etwas auf und minimiert die Problematik eines abreißenden Klebestreifens.

    sgeschwind - Contestar

    No adhesive tab in my iPhone SE 32…(A1662). I’ll try Phil’s hot towel method and report result.

    Carl Noe - Contestar

    What worked for me is WD 40. I added drop by drop at the edge of the battery where adhesive pull ripped off, waited a minute and then use the spadger to wiggle the battery under it. Took me half an hour because I was super careful to not bend the battery much. It eventually came of cleanly.

    aleck - Contestar

  25. iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 25, imagen 1 de 3 iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 25, imagen 2 de 3 iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 25, imagen 3 de 3
    • 在这一过程中尽量保持粘合条平整不弯曲,弯曲的粘合条容易粘在一块而损坏,这样就不会完好的拉出来

    • 慢慢的向着iphone底部方向将其中一个粘合条拉离电池。尽可能拉出粘合条的白色部​​分,黑色标签可能会脱落。

    • 在将粘合条从电池与后盖之间拉离时,保持持续平稳的拉力。最好在拉粘合条时保持60度或稍小的角度。

    • 注意别让粘合条粘到iphone内部的其他部件

    • 粘合条会拉长到原来长度的许多倍。在拉的过程中,如果有需要,需要减小拉力,直到粘合条完全拉出。

    Watch how it is done in the video! I broke mine by continually "pulling straight up" and didn't realize you are suppose to follow the edge of the battery.

    nickbits - Contestar

    +1. This guide should clarify the "pull around the corner" part. Preferably with pictures.

    Seppe Stas -

    Another vote for this! Watch the video to see how you pull the adhesive around the corners and sides of the battery!

    Greg Matthew Crossley -

    I had watched the video and I tried to work the strip around the sides, but couldn't get it to go without worrying it would tear on something. I just pulled up at an angle, slowly and steadily, and they both came out fine, like the instructions say.

    Rosemary McNaughton -

    The tape tabs broke almost immediately upon pulling up just a little bit (less than in the video). My phone is over 2 years old, and maybe the plastic weakens over time. I used a hair dryer on the back of the phone to soften the adhesive and the green prying tool in the iFixit repair kit to pry up the edge of the battery along the side wall of the back case. It bent the battery, but it worked to (slowly) pry the battery out without damaging the phone.

    Bruce - Contestar

    Same here - my phone is over 2 years old and both adhesive strips broke when I tried to pull them out. This step looks so easy in the video, but it became the most difficult part of this repair. I ended up slowly working strips of plastic under the battery to release it. Someone mentions using a credit card, but I have no idea where you would insert that (without bending/destroying your card).

    Anyway, I worked strips of plastic under the battery and used the pry tool and spudger to lift the battery as I did this. The battery bends/deforms while you do this. I was worried that the battery would internally short and heat up, but it didn’t…..   just don’t go crazy bending it, and be careful where you pry (so you don’t damage the electronics/switches).

    Someone also mentioned using a warm face towel - looking back I wonder if this would have helped, since you could rest the phone on the warm towel while you do this (and keep that adhesive warm the entire time). I

    spyder13b -

    I didn't have any sticky tape to hold the new battery in place, so I only removed the outside adhesive tab and left the inner one. This way I would 'lever' the battery out and the innermost tape-strip stayed in place, which was helpful to see the new battery in place. carefull though, you have to lever the battery out very slowly, very very slowly ... but it does work.

    Niels - Contestar

    yeah this wrong. the video has it right. just toasted both of my strips, thanks!

    mdelvecchio99 - Contestar

    there is no way these strips can be stretched (3y o phone) snapped immediately, plus 1st tore on non existent cover imediately

    Gabe - Contestar

    I put on the radiator then used dental floss to start and then two iFixit cards together to pry from home button and outside edges. Didn't notice but I bent the little home button connector guard (not the cover - I didn't have one) but it seemed to make no difference, just bent it back.

    Gabe - Contestar

    I also broke the sticky strips almost immediately so had to prise battery out. it bent a little but came out leaving the strips behind. this has the advantage of having the strips remaining to fix the new battery.

    adrt - Contestar

    Same problem with strips breaking on a 2 yo phone. Might be a good idea to apply the heat BEFORE trying to pull on the ends.

    donshaw1795 - Contestar

    Mine also broke immediately. Someone else suggested that they be heated before attempting to pull out. That seems like good advice; I think the adhesive hardens with age.

    yscuba - Contestar

    They broke dec 2017

    Lars Åkeson - Contestar

    I have done an iPhone 5s and iPhone 6 battery. I can tell you that the adhesive strips sometimes break but when they are going to come out it is best done just by pulling straight out from the bottom. It is better to keep the adhesive strip straight so it does not crimp and the adhesive pulls off equally along the strip. I would not try the pulling from the sides as shown in the video. 3 out of 4 of the strips came out very nicely that way. Also keep re-grabbing the adhesive as close to the battery as you can get it. And go slow. The whole repair is a ton easier if you can pull the strips out without them tearing.

    SC - Contestar

    I saw it mentioned somewhere, but be very careful of wedging the credit card at the top side of the battery. There is a flat cable for the volume buttons that I almost scraped off and almost damaged. I would have liked to see a picture of what it looked like without the battery to see that.

    SC - Contestar

    Completely wrong.

    william - Contestar

    Perfect - 1st timer here. I got a small face towel, moistened it, wrapped it in cling film, microwaved it until very hot, and rested the phone on it. After about 3 minuted both strips came out very nicely.

    Phil Rydin - Contestar

    My tabs broke too. Like others said, these steps are misleading. You do not pull back as shown. I had to bend the old battery out which sucks.

    Michael - Contestar

    I had to bend the old battery out which sucks.

    MEH! It was OK. I pried it out. It got bent up. I’m not using it again. No biggie.

    xtian -

    I pulled straight out for both and both broke off right away. I applied heat by way of an athletic hot/cold pack heated in the microwave, and then pried and chiseled the battery out from the case side with an old credit card. I watched the video after I was done - of course. Heating beforehand and pulling the strips around the sides is most likely the best way to go.

    Tad Dadisman - Contestar

    Changing 2 batteries back to back, the tabs broke on me the first time. the second time I:

    - did not separate the tabs in the previous step

    - laid them on the spudger with the spudger across the body of the phone

    -rotated the spudger like a spool, keeping the adhesive feeding more or less straight up.

    it worked pretty well. one side came completely off and battery removal was easy.

    Erik - Contestar

    Second this advice! Just used this method and it worked flawlessly. Note: do this in the middle of the spudger, not the tapered end, otherwise the reel will slowly migrate off the tool and then the winding will not longer work. Apply low heat from a hair dryer to the aluminum back first as well. Had been putting off a battery replacement because I hated this step so much, but no longer!

    jostehlin -

    I used this method too, and it worked very well... I did one at a time wound round a pencil laid across the phone and rotated the pencil very slowly... I used a covered hot water bottle for heat and laid the phone on it the whole time while removing the battery... Found this method very easy and had no problems at all and my phone is eight years old, with its original battery...!

    Chris Shurety -

    this was the hardest part for me. like others, strips broke immediately. i recommend buying a second set of adhesive strips with your kit as i had issues with those as well.

    Chris Miller - Contestar

    For that it strips need? When I put a new battery inside, do I need the same strips?

    girloffeather - Contestar

    My strips broke (of course). I ended up heating a wet washcloth in the microwave and putting it in a sealed sandwich bag. I put the bag on the table and the phone on the bag. I had to pry the bottom end of the old battery to get to the broken strips. It bent some but that allowed me to stick the tweezers underneath to grab hold of a strip to pull. It came out some and broke again so I pried a little more on the battery to get to the strips with the tweezers. Eventually I got all of the strips and was able to remove the battery.

    Gary Grinstead - Contestar

    I had the same problem where I ended up stretching it too much. What I did to counter this was just pry the battery open and rip some of the adhesive off then proceeded to pull the thing right off when there wasn’t too much left of the adhesive.

    Vlanpai - Contestar

    First, I used a wheat bag for my heat source to soften the adhesive (cloth bag filled with wheat grains, which you heat in a microwave, usually to apply to an arthritic joint for pain relief). Retains the heat for a good time and provides a base on which to work (a bit like using a hot water bottle, but without the water and a lot more stable !)

    Second, my adhesive strips broke before I got anywhere close to the battery corner ! So I used dental floss. Starting at one corner of the battery, using a sawing motion to reach the other (nearest) corner, then came down the length of the battery. The floss broke about a dozen times, but after about 15-20 minutes it had cut the battery clean away from the adhesive.

    Wayne - Contestar

    I’ve done work on my laptop and one of my favorite tools is a wooden tongue depressor. They’re strong. You can shape them. They’re obviously non-conductive. And, I don’t jack up my Credit Card in the process. HAHA.

    My phone is 2-3 years old. I used a hot water bottle (water heated to 140F) and let the phone heat up for approx ~60s. The strips didn’t even get around the corner before they broke. Maybe I should have heated the water to 200F? Maybe I should have heated the phone for 2 minutes?

    Scrapping up the goo later, it was really stuck down. I continued to use the hot water bottle, and at no point did it seem to become ‘less sticky’. Eventually I was able to scrape up enough to get a grip. The rest pulled up just like the pictures. Maybe the goo was just not pliable after years of heating and cooling?

    xtian - Contestar

    I watched the video and tried pulling from the side, no dice. Both strips broke and were irretrievable. After trying dental floss and heat, I pulled the small e string off my electric guitar and wound each end around a pencil. This was so the string didn’t dig into my hand while I used it to slowly “saw” the adhesive off from underneath. Alternately heating and sawing from one end and then the other (make sure the string doesn’t snag on anything while doing this, and also make sure the string doesn’t twist into a loop), I was able to cut through the adhesive and remove the old battery. It was quite a chore, but this was the only thing that worked for me. The adhesive strips were laughing at my puny attempts with plastic cards.

    Patrick Pedersen - Contestar

    I also ripped off the tag ends, but managed to grab the remaining ~1mm ends of the adhesive strip with a pair of tweezers and twisted to re-establish a secure fixing point and drag both strips out

    fpe - Contestar

    I succeded in removing one strip but the other broke of, i went on with a credit card as suggested to unstick the other half of the batttery and it kindof worked, but then i used a plastig knife to lossen the remaining adhesive strip underneath the battery and accidentally cut throught the metal shielding of the battery, then i smelled a strange sweet smell coming out of the battery. Immediately put the battery in the backyard, maybe its gonna explode….

    Erik - Contestar

    the fishing line trick worked extremely well. Very effective. Take your time, pulling it back and forth first from one side of the line then the other. It cut through the adhesive really in no time.

    fhussar - Contestar

    hello i am replacing my iphone 5s battery but i am stucked because the adhesive broke whiles pulling it out

    before i started i made sure my battery was 0% but i am afraid that when i mistakenly puncture it with the spudger it might catch fire

    please is the battery capable of catching fire when it has no power (0%)?

    please can someone give me the honest answers before i continue

    thank you

    George Rockson - Contestar

    Yes it can catch fire even at 0 %. I had 2 batteries burn totaling the iPhone.

    chumblyf -

    It felt like the strips pulled out completely, in fact, there was a full layer underneath. When we levered the battery out later, we used a hairdryer from underneath, and during the “heating” (gentle! only lowest setting!) you could lever the battery with a metal piece (I was very careful not to hurt the battery. So we got the battery out with some force appied and slowest movement away from the very sticky wihte stripes… I think, even if you do all according to the manual, be prepared for a hairdryer use from underneath.

    Bernd Saegmueller - Contestar

    Watching the video is helpful for this step. I also put the phone on a heating pad for a couple of minutes to soften the adhesive.

    Ed Austin - Contestar

    The idea of pulling the adhesive around the battery to each side seemed like a good one, but I think it doesn’t really work if your phone is older than a year. I had a 3-4 year old phone. The adhesive broke near the end on one side and right near the black tab on the other side. I tried the plastic pry tool, but it was threatening to snap, so in the end I got a butter knife and pried the battery out with that. Didn’t think to try and soften the adhesive, but with all the warnings about battery exploding I wouldn’t have tried it anyway I don’t think. The butter knife worked well anyway. The battery ended up a bit deformed, but I never plan to use that battery again anyway. It was defunct, that’s why I was replacing it.

    Jody - Contestar

    Here’s a method without all that yanking and pulling. You just need a thin screwdriver to wind the adhesive strip onto.

    1. First, expose the adhesive strip tabs as shown in Step 24. Cut where they are joined. You will then deal with each strip separately.

    2. Expose the the white sticky stuff of the adhesive strip. Don’t pull on anything in case it breaks. You just want to expose the white stuff.

    3. I used a thin “jewellers” screw driver. It’s only 1.5mm wide. Get the white adhesive strip onto the tip. The screwdriver shaft will rest on the metal edge of the phone. Protect the edge with some sticky tape. Might need 2 or 3 layers.

    4. Simply rotate the screwdriver as if unscrewing. You will wind the strip onto the screwdriver.

    5. Continue winding (unscrewing). Do not attempt to pull at the strips - they’ll break. Keep the tip of the screwdriver as close as you can to the battery. Don’t let the strip snag on anything else.

    Here’s a pic to explain what’s going on:

    https://ibb.co/QHgWfDR

    Big Ed - Contestar

    I used the spudger to roll the strips, but a pencil will do also. For these you don’t need to protect the metal case edges. And: put the stick like a brigde across both edges, then you dont have to worry to damage something inside.

    Trogisch -

    Used this technique in conjunction with base of phone lying on a (microwaveable) hot water bottle and both strips came out. Phone is over 4 years old. Thanks for the top tips.

    dylanhuw -

    If your phone is any older than a year or two, definitely try gently heating the adhesive through the back of the phone case before you try pulling the adhesive. Otherwise, it is almost sure to break!

    Arnold Wright - Contestar

    I started to pull on the strips and immediately noticed they had holes in them, and they quickly broke. I had to do what a few others here said - I used the opening tool as a lever to pry the battery out. Yes, the battery ended up getting bent out of shape, but I got it out. I only worried about puncturing the battery, thankfully that didn’t happen.

    Why is it even necessary to put these adhesive strips down? I’ve never seen any other product with a battery require that you tape/glue the battery in place.

    delerious - Contestar

    Just want to add, easiest thing for me was to heat up one of those gel bead massage therapy pads, stick the phone on top and use a card to pry while its still on the pad…. the constant heat melted it off quite easily!

    Chris - Contestar

    My strips broke after a few centimeters. So I warmed up the back with the heat pad, then threaded a strong sewing thread behind the batteryattached each ends of the thread to improvised handles (lego bits) and tried to pull the thread under the battery. Did not work. Then got my wife to hold the phone case while I was making a sawing motion with the thread, pulling on handle at the time. That worked super smoothly and the battery was off in a few seconds!

    Thibaut - Contestar

    In common with everyone else, the tabs broke off immediately (brittle with age). I rested the phone on a hot water bottle (no microwave here) for a few minutes. Managed to get some fishing line under the battery at the charger / home button end and then gradually (had to keep reheating it) managed the pull the line backwards and forwards, slowly working my way down the battery. And out it popped. Remaining glue came off with a bit of scraping with my finger nail. Probably took about 15 mins to sort this stage out.

    joolz - Contestar

    The adhesive strips broke right away. I read through these comments & tried dental floss & heavy thread, several times for about an hour, breaking it every time. I heated up a cloth bag of rice, that I use for my knee, in the microwave for three minutes, wrapped it with a kitchen towel & then plastic wrap. I put the phone down on it & began trying the dental floss again. It still kept snapping but I could tell the adhesive strips were moving. I dug into my sewing box again & found a piece of satin ribbon. I wish I had thought of that first, but it worked like a charm! Hope this helps someone else.

    renatavinnie - Contestar

    None of those methods worked for me and I didn't want the apply any liquid in the phone like alcohol. I was so annoyed as the video is very deceptive. I bet you over 95% of those sticky adhesives will break. In the end, and after 1 hour after carefully trying razor blades, wire, monofilament, heat, and a sharpened spatula. I wrapped the battery in electrical tape at the top and used my pliers and just ripped it out in about 10 seconds. I had pried the battery up about 1 inch to grip it with the pliers. I inserted the new battery, snapped in the connectors and all works fine. I have been repairing apple devices for years and I know what to avoid and when to go slow, so there was nothing that would have been damaged when I went at it with the pliers. I of course did not want to puncture the battery and I didn't. But be careful as it is very 'alive". I just touched one tiny exposed corner of it with the shaft of a screwdriver and sparks flew. The battery was totally flat (no energy) when I did this repair.

    Paolo Alberto - Contestar

    Was bei mir mit einem inzwischen richtig alten iPhone SE tadellos funktioniert hat: Mit einer Pinzette aufwickeln. Man greift einen der durchtrennten Strips im rechten Winkel mit einer Pinzette und dreht diese schön langsam, so dass man immer nur einen Fingerbreit des Streifens rausschauen hat. Dann reißt es erstens nicht im unnötig gedehnten rausschauenden Teil, zweitens ist es fast automatisch schön langsam, denn das ist das eigentliche Geheimnis: Adhäsive Klebebänder kann man nur langsam lösen, wie bei diesen fädenziehenden Etiketten, ganz langsam, das braucht Zeit statt Kraft. Und auch nicht um die Ecke, am Rand entlang, sonst wird automatisch eine Seite stärker gespannt, und dort reißt es dann. Schön gerade und langsam, das braucht halt zwei Minuten, aber besser als mit Erhitzen, Lösemittel usw.

    Philippos - Contestar

    Replacing the ifixit battery i installed a couple years ago and it is VASTLY more difficult than removal of adhesive on the original battery. Wish they had improved that aspect specifically.

    Feather Osborn - Contestar

  26. iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 26, imagen 1 de 2 iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 26, imagen 2 de 2
    • 对第二根粘合条重复以上操作。

    • 如果你成功的移去了两根粘合条,请跳过下一步。

    • 如果电池下方的粘合剂断裂并且无法恢复,请在电池边缘下方的断裂胶带区域滴几滴高浓度(超过 90%)的异丙醇。

    • 等待大约一分钟,让酒精溶液削弱粘合剂。 使用撬棒扁平的一端轻轻提起电池。

    • 不要试图用力撬出电池。 如果需要,再滴几滴酒精以进一步削弱粘合剂。 切勿用撬具使电池变形或刺破。

    • 千万不要撬动主板,否则可能会损坏手机。

    • 避免撬动靠近音量控制的左上角,否则可能会损坏音量按钮带状电缆

    • 你还可以在下一步中尝试其他方法。

    You better heat this all up before you try to remove the glue strips. Mine broke off right away and then (after heating) you have to pry up the whole battery (mine was discharged completely so less risk) which tends to be glued so tightly that it all bents (not very safe for a Lithium Ion battery!).

    Pieter Kerstens - Contestar

    I totally agree. First strip did not come off. Heated the phone up, second one worked as if I did it every day..

    + You should hear a rattling sound (the strip moving towards the bottom of the battery) while pulling. If you do not hear a sound while pulling it will probably break !

    meertdavid - Contestar

    definitely agree with the sounds I did the same procedure but heated both luck was not on my side for the first strip I luckily was able to grab the quickly shrinking adhesive as it ducked under the battery but foolishly pulled harder without adding more heat and broke it off again but successfully pried that sucker out with the help of a blow dryer if i ever do this again that’s my heating tool of choice

    Christopher Healy -

    Bei mir hat es nicht geklappt. :-( Ich habe es geschafft, die Haltestreifen beide zu durchtrennen und dadurch keine Möglichkeit mehr, die Gummis zu lösen. Ich höre hier auf und gehe zumFachhandel. Daher unbedingt auf denRat der drei Vorredner hören und das iPhone erhitzen. Ich war zu hitzig. ;-)

    Thomas Mejer - Contestar

    For us the right hand adhesive strip came out perfectly but the left one snapped after only about a fifth had come out. Luckily I had a couple of small suction cups that I could use to lift the right side of the battery up and put some isopropyl alcohol in. By gently wiggling the right side of the battery up and down, leaving it a bit, putting a bit more alcohol on we reached a point where it was possible to get fingers under the right side of the battery and then gently raise it until the remaining adhesive strip let go.

    This was a lot less painful I think than the experience others have had. Hope that’s helpful.

    Ed Griffiths - Contestar

    What the heck is the idea behind gluing the battery in so tightly?! I mean where is it going to go?

    gfriedman99 - Contestar

    Both of my strips snapped. I put in 91% isopropyl alcohol and waited a while and it doesn't seem to have helped. I may be able to find a hair dryer here but it sounds unlikely to be hot enough. I have a proper heat pencil which is the right thing to use for this, but it is not here, and I can't easily retrieve it in reasonable time to return the phone to the owner. I will try the dental floss method.

    paul - Contestar

  27. iPhone 5s 电池更换, 从iPhone中取出电池的其他方法: paso 27, imagen 1 de 1
    • 如果电池仍然粘在后壳上,请准备一个 iOpener 或使用吹风机直接加热电池后面的iPhone后盖。

    • 过度加热iPhone可能会引燃电池

    • 不要试图用力撬出电池。 切勿用撬具使电池变形或刺破电池。

    • 不要撬动主板,否则可能会损坏手机。

    • 避免撬动靠近音量控件的左上角,否则可能会损坏音量按钮带状电缆

    • 你可以选择用一条牙线来分开电池与后盖,更好的选择是用一条吉他弦,例如一套12弦中的0.009 E 弦

    • 在电池顶部与后盖之间穿入一条牙线或者弦,首尾放在一起,然后用折叠的布料包起来,均匀地拉动。

    I'm a little astounded no one has mentioned the importance of not using sharp tools at this juncture. With the adhesive failing to come off nicely, many will be tempted to get out the metal tweezers. DON'T. If the battery gets punctured, it WILL catch fire and destroy your entire phone. Use dental floss or credit card as suggested.

    Angela - Contestar

    Angela is right. The battery will catch fire if you physically damage it. That's exactly what I did and I left a trail of smoke in my building's hallways as I ran outside with it. Amazingly once everything had cooled off, I was able to complete the job, because the battery catching fire took care of the %#*@ adhesive.

    Brian Hill - Contestar

    Haha! Good work around!! :)

    Jack -

    If you are pulling an iPhone apart, Use an ice cube container for the screws. Draw yourself a plan if you must but I have done so many, I know what bits go in which hole.

    Jack -

    Pro tip: Use 2 cards together - slip one over the other. Start the process with dental floss…

    Gabe - Contestar

    The adhesive strips broke almost immediately. Tried the dental floss trick a few times, credit cards, guitar pick, more floss, hair dryer, etc ... Bent & smashed the old battery to the point I was really worried it might explode. The only thing that really seemed to help was heating up the back of the phone first w/a hair dryer, then jamming plastic cards in from the corners, top & bottom (being careful not to bend or smash other things) until I was able to pry it loose.

    seijihuzz01 - Contestar

    Same here. That was intense.

    gibitzga -

    Using the microwaved towel wrapped in film and microwaved, then placing the phone on it to heat up nicely, the strips came completely out and the battery popped off rendering this step unnecessary!

    Phil Rydin - Contestar

    Phil — what do you mean by “wrapped in film”.. do you mean plastic-wrap? I’d love if you could elaborate :)

    Red-Rob -

    Hey Phil.. I’d love if you can elaborate on that. By “wrapped in film” do you mean plastic-wrap?

    Red-Rob -

    I did something similar. Start by looping dental floss under the bottom of the battery. Then put a wet (but not dripping) washcloth in a ceramic microwave safe bowl and heated it for about three minutes. Covered the cloth with plastic food wrap and set the phone on it. Once phone’s hot, I worked the floss towards the top of the phone. Repeated many times until it stalled halfway up the battery. Then I did the same process starting at the top of the battery. After a lot of time the floss came all the way top to bottom. Be patient. Keep at it. It’ll work. And take care never to bend or brake battery.

    Edward Merry -

    Yep followed Edward advice with great success, thanks. Damp washcloth in microwave for 2 minutes, wrapped in clingfilm. Sat phone on top and worked corner of old credit card carefully under as glue melted. The phone body heats up until almost too hot to touch as you hold it down to work —that’s where you want it! The strips then get very soft and can be removed without forcing anything. One cloth got most of one side up, second was enough to finish the job.

    Sam Harwood -

    A rice bag warmed in the microwave was another option for keeping the back of the phone warm.

    Russell Reid -

    We had only the flat dental tape. That breaks easily, but pearlescent embroidery thread did the trick. Scariest part of the whole process so far.

    Sarah Sorlien - Contestar

    I agree I had been patient the whole time and still broke an adhesive strip but I successfully used the spudger to complete the job along with a blow dryer but definitely the scariest part of the whole job…not for the faint of heart haha also bent the !#^& out of the battery someone correct me if i’m wrong but I think with enough patience the battery cable is a fine thing to pull on with heat I tried it without heat and it can handle a good deal of force before giving way I don’t know enough about the battery to know if it could cause a fire from ripping it off just thankful it didn’t catch fire on me

    Christopher Healy -

    This was the hardest part. I used a combination of a hair dryer and 3 credit cards (use ones you don’t care about as they will bend). After prying about 50%, I used my fingers for the rest. In the end my old battery was bent curved from the prying.

    morettisf - Contestar

    Don’t ever put your fingers under the batteries as they can heat up and burn you.

    chumblyf -

    I laid my phone on a heating pad for this step, which I think made it easier (but it was still hard!). My 2nd adhesive strip broke almost immediately, but the dental floss worked great!

    Carrie Lundy - Contestar

    Thanks for advice! I used sewing thread to separate the battery from the rear case. it wasn't hard. I think one shouldn’t risk heating it or bending it, when there are more safer ways.

    Илья Хмелёв - Contestar

    how is that possible , i tried several times but it breaks

    George Rockson -

    This step was quite a bugger for me too… I finally went in with the spudger from the very top of the phone / battery, which isn’t quite what they recommend. The battery definitely got bent doing it that route, but it didn’t catch fire, and everything appears to be working just fine after re-assembly!

    Kevin Brink - Contestar

    I heated the back of the phone on a heating pad set on high, but both adhesive strips still broke almost immediately. Tried a credit card but that got nowhere, so then I remembered seeing a video in which someone used monofilament fishing line. Worked perfectly. Just pulled it behind the battery, pulling on one side then the other until I worked it nearly all the way down, then the battery just lifted out. Wrap it around a couple of things to use as handles when you pull and it’s less painful.

    Gregory White - Contestar

    Wow… and no mention about the SILENT FLEX??? I folowed all this, glues the batt (instead of testing it first with an open screen) and after all the effort no buttons work (Power, Volume up/dn, and the Silent key - the Home button works)

    Please include some kind of warning about this

    kolorec - Contestar

    Sorry you had trouble. There’s a giant warning in red font with a link to a photo of the volume/silent flex cable—it’s the third bullet in the step. A lot can go wrong if you don’t read thoroughly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Jeff - I don’t know about kolorec, but I did read thoroughly, and stayed well away from the volume controls during the long and worrying battery extraction. However, I managed to damage the cable at the other side - where it comes up to plug into the logic board, near the display (etc) sockets. I suspect the dental floss was the culprit, but it might have been the chisel (joke!). So I have a working phone but have to adjust volume and power off in software.

    Ian Harris - Contestar

    Hey Ian, sorry to hear that. Let us know if you think the instructions need to be revised; we’re always trying to strike a balance between including adequate warnings and keeping it concise/readable. That cable can be replaced if desired, although it’s a more involved repair (both battery and logic board have to be removed first). If you haven’t yet, double-check and make sure it’s seated properly before you go further. Thanks for your feedback! Better luck on your next repair hopefully.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I wish I read this morу closely before pulling my battery out. Now I have to worry about replacing the volume control cable.

    Антон Зайцев - Contestar

    hello i am replacing my iphone 5s battery but i am stucked because the adhesive broke whiles pulling it out

    before i started i made sure my battery was 0% but i am afraid that when i mistakenly puncture it with the spudger it might catch fire

    please is the battery capable of catching fire when it has no power (0%)?

    please can someone give me the honest answers before i continue

    thank you

    George Rockson - Contestar

    I took out the logic board and was able to go under the battery from the side with a charlie card (though im sure any plasticky card wld do…), but I didn’t use it to pry, just got the adhesive stuck to the credit card (phone was warmed from the bottom before hand), and the adhesive was much easier to pull out from the side than it was from the bottom, only had to use the card a few times to get enough adhesive to actually grip with my fingers. After that it was pretty simple.

    Ashelee Collier - Contestar

    There was no folded tab for the adhesive strips in my 5S. After heating with a heating pad I used a combination of a thin plastic card to get started and while it was partially under the battery then added regular credit card to completely release the battery. It turns out the battery was held in by double-sided tape. This helps to explain why there was no metal clip over the hone button connector, I had a reconditioned 5S …sold as new from Singapore . I decided the doubled-tape was a good idea and since it was still very sticky installed the new battery with it.

    Morris Gray - Contestar

    This is like the boss level in an RPG. I tried dental floss and multiple credit cards and could not get it up (even while adding heat). I found that using the spudger on the bottom area and then pulling with my fingers worked best!

    Justin Minion - Contestar

    No plastic did work. Not stiff enough. We used a metal spatula with round edges and some metal piece at outmost care not to puncture the battery. Uh….. Apple could make this user friendly!

    Bernd Saegmueller - Contestar

    Hi, adhesive strips broke instantly, both of them.

    I reheated I-Opener 3 times and between each time - dental-flossed underneath the battery :)

    Every time I could get it further, so eventually I made it to the end. I have started it from the bottom of battery and going up. Dental floss broke several time, but persistence is key in this step.

    Good luck! :)

    Luka Liker - Contestar

    So grateful for this guidance. Having broken the tabs on the white adhesive strips, and then snapped a couple of pieces of dental floss trying Plan B, I moved to Plan C and pinched a string from my 12-string guitar. It worked a dream. Important correction to the notes though: it is the “octave G string” from a 12-string, not the E string, that you need to use (that’s the finest 0.008 or 0.009mm gauge). I never though my guitar collection would come in handy when fixing my iPhone

    Greg Smith - Contestar

    After both adhesive strips broke, what ended up working for me was using a 20-inch length of 0.23 mm (.009 in) diameter monofilament fishing line.

    I first worked it under the corner of the battery that’s toward the top of the phone and the logic board. Then I used a spudger to push the line under the other top corner so that it was barely under the battery parallel to the short end.

    Using just my fingers to pull both ends of the line toward the bottom of the phone, I was able to pull it about an inch before it felt completely stuck.

    From there, I applied a sawing technique by wrapping one end of the line around the rubber-grip shaft of screwdriver, pulling that end 0.5-1.0 inch toward the bottom of the phone, then switching to the other end of the string and repeating.

    It took several minutes of this sawing motion (and a repeat of the above steps after the first line snapped) to run the line through the whole length of the battery, but in the end the old battery was loose, unbent, and easy to just lift off.

    Pasi Jouhikainen - Contestar

    Putting rice in a long sock and microwaving it for about a minute works as a great heater. Placing it on the back for a couple of minutes and then using the Sudger tool worked wonders to lift it up to where I could grab the adhesive again and pull it out.

    Edwin Camacho - Contestar

    If these 30+ comments don’t make it clear enough:

    THIS IS THE MOST DIFFULT STEP (even more so without consulting comments beforehand).

    These instructions ought to be amended to reflect this since our overwhelming consensus:

    ‘…using a hair dryer Applying (targeted) Heat to the rear case directly behind the battery. .’

    Obviously attempting ‘Pull Up the original adhesive strips…’ should remain, rather than tacking on another bullet point, Inject an entirely new, numbered, step , e.g. when ‘The Adhesive Strips Breaks / snaps off…’

    If they (somehow) successfully removed Adhesive Strips on first try, then,

    ‘Skip ahead to Step # / the Next Step…’

    c0BRA - Contestar

    This is the most difficult part of this venture. My phone is circa 2016. Trying to remove the adhesive strip was a nightmare. They snapped immediately at the initiation of the pull. The heat trick with and without fishing line failed to budge the adhesion. Eventually, light heating and brute leveraging gradually lifted the battery out of its’ base with significant battery deformation. Outer wrapper remained intact fortunately. (I did not want to look up what happens if I punctured it.) Key is mild heat with gentle SLOW leveraging of battery out of its seating with the duller end of ifixit blue plastic “crowbar” they supplied. Metal would have penetrated the casing so be forwarned. Not that easy in an old iphone. BTW phone works GREAT!! Good luck!

    James wong - Contestar

    Here’s a method without all that yanking and pulling. You just need a thin screwdriver to wind the adhesive strip onto.

    1. First, expose the adhesive strip tabs as shown in Step 24. Cut where they are joined. You will then deal with each strip separately.

    2. Expose the the white sticky stuff of the adhesive strip. Don’t pull on anything in case it breaks. You just want to expose the white stuff.

    3. I used a thin “jewellers” screw driver. It’s only 1.5mm wide. Get the white adhesive strip onto the tip. The screwdriver shaft will rest on the metal edge of the phone. Protect the edge with some sticky tape. Might need 2 or 3 layers.

    4. Simply rotate the screwdriver as if unscrewing. You will wind the strip onto the screwdriver.

    5. Continue winding (unscrewing). Do not attempt to pull at the strips - they’ll break. Keep the tip of the screwdriver as close as you can to the battery. Don’t let the strip snag on anything else.

    Here’s a pic to explain what’s going on:

    https://ibb.co/QHgWfDR

    Big Ed - Contestar

    The idea of heating a moist washcloth, folder to phone case size, was a great one. In my case, used a heavier duty small freezer bag to keep the water at bay from the phone. I also prepositioned the floss so I could work it along under the battery once it was sufficiently warm. Thank you all. Old battery removed, but un-traumatized by the process.

    John Coates - Contestar

    9 out of 10 dentists agree, Oral B Essential floss is best for removing stubborn plaque, I mean adhesive.

    Richard Lange Jr - Contestar

    I broke the both pieces of tapes. I don’t have a hair drier, so I tried using the spudger, and a credit card to remove the battery. I tried putting something hot on the back of the phone. I tried with fishing thread. The thread broke… I really didn't want to damage the battery so I gave up. However, I successfully changed my screen.

    Jamworld876 - Contestar

    electric e-strings can get .009”. don’t use rusty olds.

    jebthaaxe - Contestar

    Both of my strips broke, isopropyl alcohol didn't help. I got dental floss under one corner and loosened a few mm after which progress stopped, i.e. it got stuck hard enough to break the dental floss. I don't have any monofilament. I will try heating the back of the phone, using a washcloth soaked in hot water and sealed in a ziploc bag as a heating pad.

    paul - Contestar

    Ok the hot washcloth (actually dish towel) plus sliding a credit card under the battery worked. Old battery is out. Now to attempt getting the new one in. The old adhesive strips were really stuck down pretty good and I think there was no way to pull them out with the recommended method, or to get enough alcohol under the battery to dissolve the adhesive. Heating is the only workable method and maybe some kind of thin metal shim tool would be helpful in cases where a credit card is too thick.

    paul - Contestar

    None of those methods worked for me and I didn't want the apply any liquid in the phone like alcohol. I was so !#^&@@ off as the video is very deceptive. I bet you over 95% of those sticky adhesives will break. In the end, and after 1 hour after carefully trying razor blades, wire, monofilament and a sharpened spatula. I wrapped the battery in electrical tape at the top and used my pliers and just ripped it out in about 10 seconds. I had pried the battery up about 1 inch to grip it with the pliers. I inserted the new battery, snapped in the connectors and all works fine. I have been repairing apple devices for years and I know what to avoid and when to go slow, so there was nothing that would have been damaged when I went at it with the pliers. I of course did not want to puncture the battery and I didn't. But be careful as it is very 'alive". I just touched one tiny exposed corner of it with the shaft of a screwdriver and sparks flew. The battery was totally flat (no energy) when I did this repair.

    Paolo Alberto - Contestar

    Ich war mit einem Kirschkernkissen (ca. 1 Minute in der Mikrowelle) und Buchbinderzwirn (Zahnseide riss zu schnell) sehr erfolgreich – konnte dann eine der Länge nach halbierte alte Kundenkarte relativ rasch von oben unter den Akku schieben und diesen etwas anheben und mit einer Pinzette die Klebestreifen unter dem Akku fassen –> die Klebestreifen konnten von oben ganz leicht abgezogen werden.

    Marie Müxeline - Contestar

  28. iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 28, imagen 1 de 3 iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 28, imagen 2 de 3 iPhone 5s 电池更换: paso 28, imagen 3 de 3
    • 将电池从后盖拉出。

    • 如果你购买的替换电池在插口排线上有个塑料保护套,在安装前先从这个排线上拔下来。

    • 如果手机中残留有酒精溶液,请在安装新电池之前小心地将其擦掉或让它自然风干。

    • 在固定更换电池之前,暂时将电池连接器重新连接到逻辑板插座。 这可确保电池在其凹槽中正确对齐。

    • 粘上电池,断开连接,然后继续重新组装您的设备。

    • 如果你的电池并没有预先贴好粘合剂,,请参考这份指南来替换您电池的胶带。

    • 重新组装完成后,执行一下手机重启。这样可以避免一些问题,并方便故障检修。

    A few things for reassembly:

    To apply the adhesive strips, peel one side of the backing off, then without touching the strips put the whole thing adhesive side down where the old strips were, then pull off the remaining backing. If you pull the strips out first, they want to tangle up and become a blob. Trust me, I know. Sadface.

    To reapply the tiny bracket that holds the home button's cable in place, put the side with the one tab in first, oriented towards the bottom of the phone, then press the top with the two cut outs into place. There's two tabs in the phone body that should line up with the two cut outs.

    When closing it up, you have to slide the top of the screen flush into place before pressing the rest of the phone shut. If you don't, the top won't snap shut.

    lessawinston - Contestar

    The easiest way I have found to install the home button clip is to hold it with needle nose tweezers and slide it in from left to right, holding it at about 45 degrees. once the back cutouts are aligned, push down on the font to clip it in to place. Hope this helps. (I've done hundreds and struggled until I found this trick). ;)

    Jack -

    I agree with the last point about the need to get the top of the screen to seat flush before pressing in the rest of the screen. There are three plastic tabs on the top of the screen which need to fit into three holes in the metal case. My plastic tabs were bent up (upon opening?) and I had to bend them down (using the blue ifixit opening tool) to get them to fit into their holes so I could seat the top of the screen.

    Erik Osborn -

    Well, a couple comments:

    1. Once I completed the battery replacement and put the iPhone back together, everything is working EXCEPT incoming call ring, in and out going mail & text message sounds. However, audio streaming works just fine!

    > could this be the 4 screws in the wrong place? (I missed the screw detail the first time!);

    > could this be a not completely seated connectors?

    2. The iFixit instructions were incredible....however, one must read and reread the instructions to avoid "oops" situations.

    pmilkes - Contestar

    pmilkes, the same with me. Everything ok except the loudspeaker. I just did the same thing wrong as you did. (I did not notice the 1,2mm 1,3mm and 1,7mm screws.

    A good solution is appreciated.

    Thanks

    By the way, my phone (iphone 5s) went complete in drinking water for three hours while I was asleep. And after 2 months I decided to change the battery. So now everything is working except the loudspeaker. (I already ordered for a replacement of that also)

    thanks I fixit.

    alperinugur - Contestar

    You may need to use tweezers to carefully bend the metal bracket to make it fit tightly into the slots over the home button connector

    fredhdx - Contestar

    Am I supposed to reapply the old battery's adhesive strips to the new battery?

    Dan Sota - Contestar

    Don't bother. It really doesn't matter.

    Jack -

    No. Use new strips only.

    Magnus Dalen -

    Ensure you position the new battery nearer to the side of the case to allow room for the connector wire to fold down in the gap on the right side.

    Magnus Dalen - Contestar

    Hallo,

    habe gerade meinen Akku getauscht, bei einem iphone 5s.

    Ich habe die Schritte 17 - 22 in Zusammenhang mit dem einfachen Wunsch den Akku zu tauschen nicht für notwendig gehalten, vielleicht habe ich da ja auch etwas falsch verstanden... Ohne diese Schritte ging das ganze jedenfalls sehr fix von der Hand, Telefon läuft, Touch ID und Tonsignale, alles funktioniert.

    Hat vielleicht gerade mal 20 min gedauert+++

    Sehr schöne Anleitung und sehr gutes Werkzeug / Akku Set von ifixit!!! habe ich online bestellt, da passt dann wenigstens alles zusammen.

    Großes Lob, DANKE

    Dr B Schwarze

    google - Contestar

    I realize my SE is pretty “old” at this point in time, so I’m guessing the replacement kit is also old stock. My replacement adhesive strips that came with the battery would not separate from the blue backing at all, so I ended up installing the battery without any strips. Hopefully, this won’t result in any problems; it seems like the battery fits inside snugly, so I don’t anticipate it moving around. This replacement was done simultaneously with the lightning connector assembly replacement. I figured I’d do it all at once.

    Douglas Waski - Contestar

    @dwaski The kits aren’t old, but we’ve seen a few complaints about defective strips that don’t separate from the liner film properly. Sorry for the trouble! If you get in touch with our support team, they can hook you up with some replacement strips. The battery has no internal protection from jolts/movement—so if it’s not properly secured, it can lead to problems. Probably fine to leave it as-is for a while as long as you’re not taking it jogging or anything like that, but I’d recommend sticking it down at some point. Congrats on a successful repair!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Well, I think my phone is now broken. It will power up and all the buttons seem to work, no distortions in the LCD display, but no matter what I try the touch screen does not respond. I have tried reseating the cable multiple times. I’ve tried cleaning it. Nothing. I think a larger warning to not touch those cables unless *absolutely* necessary. Also, the iFixit kit comes with a simple suction cup instead of the clamp shown early in the instructions. Unless I was born with at least three arms there is no way to “gently” pry up the LCD display with a single suction cup (because there are ridges on the side that hold it *firmly* in place). I think my TouchID cover went missing as well. Over all, I think it will turn out to be a $150 mistake to have tried this. By the way, this is not the first time that I’ve taken a cell phone apart. Have taken apart two other cells phones to replace batteries before with no problems. taking the iPhone apart is *not* as easy as this guide would make it out to be.

    Eric Karlson - Contestar

    I did not remove the plastic sleeve which the replacement battery came in. Is this OK?

    Bruce Englar - Contestar

    Hi Bruce! I would strongly recommend opening the phone and removing the sleeve. Batteries naturally expand and contract a bit as they charge and discharge, and the plastic sleeve may prevent that from safely happening. The sleeve may also introduce wear/pressure points for other components such as cables.

    Sam Goldheart -

    Welp…iBrokeit. my husband’s iPhone 5s kinda worked before (battery level went all crazy and then the phone screen started freezing up) but now it won’t turn on at all. I reopened it to see what I did wrong but couldn’t find anything. Oh well, at least I tried.

    Margaret Suzanne Glover - Contestar

    worked like a charme for me. The only thing I would improve next time is placing the battery a little bit more to the top (speaker and camrea side of things) as I couldn’t fold in the glue stripes black rubber part in the end, because the battery was too close to the home button connector side.

    Peter Vogt - Contestar

    I finished the battery reinstall successfully, but it took me quite a while. Final thoughts:

    1. try heating underside of phone with hair dryer before attempting to pull adhesive strips from under battery. Might help, though I didn’t and ended up using guitar string under battery.

    2. buy a really good set of small philips screwdrivers. The set that came with the kit removed the tiny screws fine, but reinstalling the screws was impossible for me without a pro tiny philips.

    Patrick Pedersen - Contestar

    Worked well but now my home button makes a small click sound ☹️

    Hugo Foulon - Contestar

    I completed battery replacement successfully! Thanks to all who comment on the steps… home button cable tips, reassemble tips on clips at top of case. Etc.

    I own an iSclack- wouldn’t repair a phone without one. I hate jerking “softly” on a suction cup ring,

    Thanks ifixit for EVERYTHING, especially the power to self- repair,

    agoodgame08 - Contestar

    The original battery adhesive strips ripped on removal so I used isopropyl, removed the battery as instructed with a card and then waited a few hours for the phone to dry completely before installing the new battery. Is it possible I used too much isopropyl and destroyed the logic board?

    Everything went back together okay, clicked in place, but the screen won’t turn on at all, I went back in and double checked all the connections, where do I begin?

    Mark Andrews - Contestar

    Today I replaced the swollen battery in my iPhone 5s.  It was still working okay and everything functioning (except the touch ID).  I did a hard reset. When powered back up I got the Apple logo with the white screen, then the passcode screen showing 1percent battery. After entering passcode the home page showing all the apps comes up and showing much higher battery charge.  I can open an app by touching the screen, but can't close the app by touching the home button.  After a couple minutes the screen suddenly goes black and then after a few minutes, powers back up again and keeps repeating the cycle until I power the phone off.  Each time the passcode screen shows 1 percent low battery, but then shows close to fully charged battery when the home page with all the apps loaded opens.  I took the phone to a Verizon tec and he verified what I just said.  He told me that quite often, an iPhone won't recognize a replacement battery if it isn't an actual Apple battery.

    Jerry Pospeshil - Contestar

    I’ve found that it is easier to properly reinstall the screen by first fitting the top of the screen (near the on/off button) into place. Then work the sides into place by sliding your thumbs from the top to bottom. The screen seats at a point slightly above the case all around the edges. You’ve done it right if you can easily reinstall the screws.

    Randy Dale - Contestar

    It also helps to have a small magnifying glass & a very bright gooseneck lamp to help you see the small parts & connections. A white, terrycloth towel makes a great work area on which it is easy to lay out & keep track of screws, parts, & tools.

    Randy Dale - Contestar

    I forgot the stripes, are they totally needed? It seems complete close and nothing is moving inside

    Marcel K. - Contestar

    I put 2 small squares each side of battery

    info -

    WARNING: Line up the battery connector to the socket before adhering the new battery; there’s a little wiggle room in there and if you dont stick the battery in there just right, the allignment will be off and then you’ll have to worry about removing the new adhesive strips and possibly ruining your battery, etc. Just be careful and think ahead.

    Tom Beers - Contestar

    This!!! This should be highlighted in the guide!!

    I lined my battery up wrong and really had to torque the cables to get the connectors to seat. Fortunately they did.

    cvdwl -

    Another caveat: I replaced the battery but it didn’t end up quite where I wanted it. It was too close to the connector receptacle. Had to pry it against the new adhesive strips to realign it. In the process I tore the “heavy” wire next to the battery connector from it’s termination. This wire can be seen easily in Step 15. Anyway, there was no putting it back together. I’m horrible at soldering so I just tucked it in as best I could, hoping it would make and maintain contact with the bit of bare wire sticking out of the termination. Put everything back together and, so far so good. It’s charging nicely and everything seems to be working so far. Fingers crossed. Wonder what that wire is for.

    Stephen Yoder -

    After 24 hours, it appears that the only function my iPhone SE isn’t performing after my battery change is vibrate. Apparently, the wire I accidentally yanked out was controlling the vibrator. No huge loss. Turned “vibrate” off in the control panel to reduce the possibility of problems due to errant electrical signals on the disconnected wire.

    Stephen Yoder -

    After following all of these steps and then performing a hard reset, my battery drains very quickly. If I do not use my phone for a few hours, when I come back my battery is completely dead. Does anyone have any ideas on what could cause the battery to drain like this?

    slapstick4235 - Contestar

    I put a Green Cell battery, thats company from Poland. 12 eur and gives 12 month warranty

    info - Contestar

    Replaced the battery (and screen while I was at it) and it’s working, but now my phone seems to get hot really quickly. Does anyone know why this would happen?

    sbarmstrong - Contestar

    Placing new battery: There is very little play to adjust the position of the battery, but there is a small amount. I put it tight against the home button end of the case. It was borderline impossible to get the home button connector’s bracket in between the battery and the home button connector socket at the end of the installation. Next time will place the battery as far as I can against the top of the phone.

    Dan - Contestar

    Unfortunately, Touch-ID not working anymore.

    -> Does anyone know what I could have done wrong and how I can fix it ?

    Hirt Didier - Contestar

    This happened to me and unless you know someone who does micro soldering it is likely impossible.

    chumblyf -

    Completed the battery replacement in good order, and everything works as it should. This is the second time I've replaced the battery. First time was almost exactly 3 years ago. This battery has been needing to be replaced for probably 3-4 months. Still, I'm happy with the life of the last battery, which was also an iFixIt battery. The charge life of this battery seems a bit low, but I'm still happy with the improvement. I did calibrate it exactly as the instructions stated. It is only on it's third day after replacement, so I might see some additional slight improvement in charge life. It will last from about 5:00AM until early afternoon, going from 100% down to the low 20%.

    FYI, I do have a Dell XPS-13 that I replaced the battery in exactly 1 year ago with an iFixIt replacement battery. The track pad is already lifting again indicating that it need replacing again. That seems too soon to me. I'd appreciate any comments about that.

    Many thanks to you guys & girls at iFixIt. Love what you do to help.

    Ron Connelly - Contestar

    Ive replaced a fair few batteries, yet one SE is not accepting ANY aftermarket batteries, tried from here, ebay & amazon, every battery is seemingly dead, put original back in, turns on like normalsurely i couldnt have had 4 bad batteries in a row??…looks like im buying used…funny though, if i change the microchip strip over to a replacement, its recognises the new battery, but never fully charges it..nice guides tho guys 👍

    Rick Wheeler - Contestar

    Chances are there is also water damage or some problems you can’t easily see.

    chumblyf -

    Before dropping the new battery in, carefully fold the black ribbon at the end of the battery so that it lies flush against the end, and then use a temporary piece of scotch tape to hold it in place while you drop the battery in where you want it. Once the battery is stuck in place (usually pretty tight up against the home button connector), then you can carefully remove the temporary scotch tape, and you're golden.

    dano16 - Contestar

Conclusión

将新的更换部件与原始部件进行比较 —— 在​​安装之前,你可能需要转移剩余配件或从新配件上移除粘合剂背衬。

要重新组装你的设备,请按逆序执行上述步骤。

将你的电子垃圾带到R2或e-Stewards认证的回收商

修理没有按计划进行?查看我们的问答社区以获取故障排除帮助。

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Sam Goldheart

Miembro Desde 10/18/12

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If the adhesive breaks without releasing, and you need to use a spudger or similiar to remove the battery, be VERY careful not to damage the Upper Component Cable.

https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...

Dave - Contestar

This should've been included in the repair guide, as the adhesive tabs seemed designed to break. My phone is now in worse shape than it was and I'm facing what seems to be an extremely difficult repair, which I will probably not undertake.

winternick -

A couple of additional pointers might be helpful...

1: I did not get all of the adhesive out from under the battery. As a result, I bent the heck out of the battery & ordered a new one, not trusting a bent one. A mention of whether it would be safe would be nice.

2: I found it impossible to get the clip from step 7 back on. I left it off. If there's a trick to this, it would be nice to have that extra instruction with the reassembly instructions, rather than "reverse order."

3: While this is always a good idea, in the process of trying to get something done, it's easy to forget that you need to remember which screws go back where, especially the 3 different-sized screws from step 10. What an evil thing Apple did there! I laid the bracket upside-down on a piece of tape, and oriented the screws around it so I'd know where they go back upon reassembly a week later. A suggestion of doing something like this might be helpful.

4: I love my iFixit toolkits! But including a pair of tweezers in it would be helpful.

datamaestro - Contestar

2. I found this piece "snapped" into place reasonably easily, but I was careful to get the orientation correct & make sure the edge against the battery pull was "in under" (for lack of a better term) and not trying to squash the battery pull down.

Hope this helps.

Dave -

1. With regards to the bent battery, you were right to replace it. LiOn Batteries are very dangerous when the cells inside are compromised. Even though the good ones have circuit breakers built in to prevent fire, they can fail. A LiOn battery - even a small one in an iPhone - can go "high order" and cause a fire that is next to impossible to extinguish. A brief search on YouTube for Lithium Ion Battery fires will quickly convince even the skeptical.

2. The way I keep track of screws... Get a complete set of all colors of Sharpie pens. When disassembling, I touch the screw head with the same color pen as the circle in the iFixit Guide. Then when reassembling I know where the green, orange, red, & blue screws go!

Pete H -

Pete H: simpler solution to the screw problem: get a fridge magnet rectangular, place the screws in the same orientation as the phone. problem solved :)

Christina -

When opening the front of the phone, there are two pieces of the front assembly the go to the edge - the glass, and a thin piece of plastic that sits behind the glass (and provides an edge). The glass is flexible enough to bend, leaving the plastic behind in some places. If you pry between the glass and the plastic, you will end up breaking the plastic. In my case I was replacing a cracked screen in addition to changing the battery, so this didn't really matter much since the plastic part that broke was part of the new screen assembly. But if you're just changing the battery, make sure you're prying up on the plastic as well as the screen.

I was not successful at getting the adhesive tabs to release the battery so had to pry it up with a spudger. If you do this, be aware there are device cables glued to the rear of the case near the top 2mm or so of the battery.

Finally the article notes potentially using tape to hold the battery - foam tape is too thick for this. I used no tape at all without issue.

storminmike - Contestar

Are new glue strips really necessary? If they help with heat sinking a little or snugness, sure. But at the very least, adhering only the enclosure side of strip and not the battery would make it easier the next time with the same result. Anyone installed without? Thanks for the heads up.

Russell - Contestar

The strips came off the battery and were still very sticky in the case. I just set the new battery on it. it was well stuck!

mdrace -

Thanks for the great guide. Apple definitely made this one more challenging than the 4 or 3!

I was quite surprised though to reach the end and find no help on actually installing the battery. It sure would be nice if you added a section at the end about installing the tape. And reminding people to remove the clear plastic wrapping from around the new battery if such exists. I know it did on my battery from iFixit. Again thanks for the great guide!

Joe - Contestar

I was able to replace the battery and everything seems to be working fine but I have an issue with my home button. I've tried to reconnect the ribbon cable but hasn't helped me. The touch ID is working but pressing the home button doesn't do anything, also touching the home butting activates the Touch ID but also makes he phone think that I have the home button constantly pressed as it acticates Siri all the time. Any ideas on how to resolve this? I went to see the home button assembly guide to find tips but didn't see any. Seems like things aren't fully broken else the touch ID or the phone thinking I'm pressing the home button when I'm jut touching it also wouldn't work. Thanks.

axmxaxr - Contestar

The PRO Tech kit was invaluable here. Especially the tweezers.

RayBob - Contestar

I've been fixing iPhones for a couple of months for some friends and I whole heartedly agree the pro kit is invaluable. Best investment I've made.

Cam R -

Use tape to limit the amount the displayed can be opened. A inch of play should be sufficient. Use packing tape to keep the displayed open when discontenting and reconnecting the display connectors.

goldenimaging - Contestar

That's an excellent tip. You should edit the guide.

idmadj -

The clip at step 8 is very difficult to reinstall, behind the connector you can see two little metal horns, the clip has two little slots, so i assume you should put the clip a little more inside , the problem is that the connector is soft and pressing on it does not offer much feedback, so you can't tell if it's ok or not, i hope i got it, but in the future if the phone makes a new rattle sound i'll know where to look :-)

My 5S was two years old and the adhesive strips both broke, i bent the old battery to take it off, however it really got loose when i heated it up on my heat gun, at 110C from the back of the battery.

I have done that while holding the phone in hand from the sides, so i can tell how hot it was, when i felt it was very uncomfortable to hold it was done, the battery went away quite easy, also the strip near the side remained intact, since in the battery that i bought there was no adhesive strips (it's optional?) i left that one inside and it worked quite well for the new battery.

Fabrizio Saglio - Contestar

That battery tape is a pain to remove. Mine broke before I could pry it off. Thankfully a hair drier and running fishing line between the battery and the case did the trick. The recommendation of dental floss is a joke as the dental floss breaks.

colinfahrion - Contestar

Great guides and great tools. Just be more patient on removing battery sticky part.

KUAN YEW - Contestar

Great guide, I had this done in 30mins using the ifixit battery replacement kit. I've a background repairing laptops and I can see this would be tricky for someone with no experience. The existing adhesive teared away on me right away. I used the supplied green spudger and got it under the battery and very gently applied upward pressure using my thumb as a fulcrum point. After about 50 seconds the battery lifted out cleanly. The rest went to plan. Great little repair kit too, well worth the extra money to have the right tools. Thank you ifixit!

chrismaverley - Contestar

Overall this was surprisingly easy.

The only time I ran into trouble was when I was removing the adhesive. I snapped one side off but I just got a hair dryer and heated the back of the phone, used a credit card to work on the adhesive and eventually it came off. It's also a little tricky to re-attach the screen connector when reassembling. The connector is very fragile and easy to break I'm sure.

This only took me around 20 minutes and cost way less than taking it to apple.

Thanks ifixit for saving me some cash and making this easy. I'll be back.

colinsinclair12 - Contestar

I disassembled my 5S. While removing the battery I ripped the outer cover and bent the battery. Is it still useable or must it be replaced?

Thanks in advance for any help you might offer.

bernieholland - Contestar

Try it. If it works, you are lucky. If the phone won't start up, get a new battery.

Jack -

Replace it. Never re-install a damaged battery; it's not worth the risk.

Jeff Suovanen -

The step to heat the back cover and soften the adhesive should come before the step where the adhesive strips are removed by pulling. Otherwise, excellent guide.

jfpinkston - Contestar

I used dental floss - had to double it - and that worked the best. However, as I lifted the end nearest the phone top, the very bottom part was still stuck, and that part bent away from the battery body, still attached. A voltmeter showed no charge on the little terminals, so I went ahead and ordered new battery. I found the directions about pulling the tab of the adhesive (after splitting it) later and will try that next time.

texboydmoore - Contestar

Thanks for this Tutorial, works very well! nice work!

friederhaeberle86 - Contestar

Whoa...by far the most stress Apple related repair I've attempted. Sadly I have to say attempted. RIght out of the gate, I felt I was being so very careful, gently applying pressure to lift the glass to expose the touch sensor cable when the glass just released suddenly and the clip flew & the cable detached. *gulp*. I figured all was already lost but might as well proceed as if it went smoothly. Everything else did, especially removing the adhesive. Not an iota of trouble there. I was excruciatingly careful with the screws to make sure they were not mixed up. The reassembly seemed to go smoothly but upon powering it back on I had the white lines and resetting after a couple minutes. I took it back down a couple of more times to get to a clean display that functioned as it should and apart from the resetting every few minutes with a blue screen, all other functionality is intact. It sounds like long screw damage but they were not mixed up at all. Puzzled and bummed. So close...so close. Tightened too much??

chdorr - Contestar

Update: wondering if it's a heat inspired reset. I had the phone off all night and turned it on this morning and it's been on and used almost an hour with no resets yet. Hopeful but expecting it to reset when it heats back up. We shall see...

chdorr -

The same thing happened to me. I should have just had an expert do it. I was careful and got everything back where it was supposed to go. But when I turn it on then after a few minutes a blue screen appears and it resets. I retried connecting everything three times but still no luck. I was careful with the screws. The only thing I can conclude was that the screen connectors were damaged during the repair process.

jason -

There are several possible causes to the blue screen issue besides long screw damage discussed in this thread. Hope it helps.

Jeff Suovanen -

Watching the video and then following the guide made the process really simple. The hardest part was when one of the screws fell on the carpet and I had to use a strong flashlight and magnet to find it.

carlos cabrera - Contestar

In my case this repair failed big time -- I would NOT recommend it to anyone. At least, I wouldn't call the difficulty "moderate" (which definitely was not the case with my 5s). I've replaced other parts before and I am not terribly clumsy , so I felt pretty confident before I started … until I came to the point where I had to remove the adhesive strips. I tried to be careful, I was patient, but they both torn apart. There was nothing I could do. I then needed a lot of patience + force to remove the battery from the strips; a process that ultimately caused the battery to catch fire, at least almost (plenty of acid smoke). In the process, and because of the longer break a had to take (smoke), I mixed up 2 screws -- which resulted, of course, in the "blue screen of death", i.e. a damaged logic board. I brought the phone to a local repair shop, but they only messed it up even more. Result: a phone that used to work fine is now complete garbage. What a frustrating experience.

Niko P - Contestar

Do u guys ship to India?

knehgunlien - Contestar

By far the most nerve-wracking Apple repair I've done. First, be very careful pulling the front panel up with a suction cup. Not sure how to avoid this without the iSclack tool, but my display separated slowly at first and then suddenly popped open to the limit of the home button cable. I didn't know till I finished whether I'd damaged this cable (thankfully I hadn't). But for me the hardest part was getting the old battery out. Both adhesive strips broke even though I was very carefully and slowly pulling them out. Then even after LOTS of hair dryer use, dental floss (kept breaking), and prying with a plastic card it still was barely budging. I could only get it out by using the flat end of the spudger and working it under one end of the battery, then forcing it further along (bending the battery a lot along the way). Fortunately the battery didn't rupture. New battery is now in and everything works!

kevludwig - Contestar

My iphone looses charge quickly, at 30% it will totally shut down due to low charge. This guide save me from upgrading my iphone, I believe that iphone should lasts for 4-5 years before upgrading, upgrading the battery pack will give extra 2 years for iphone in my opinion, I just followed the video here, before you try to remove the adhesive from the battery, use first a hair dryer at the back of the phone, enough heat only till you can feel discomfort, heating it too much might risk for battery explosion. It is evident that the heat applied causes the battery to bent when you successfully removed the battery.

Those screws i used a 4 different color of marker pen, I marked all that hole plus the screws, in case they will be mixed up it will be easy to sort out.

I used a i-Slacker also, i dont want to take chances damaging the home button when prying it up. I-slacker did it perfectly.

Proceed with caution, if you are not confident, watch the video many times, and read all the comments here. It helps a lot.

John Mark Booc - Contestar

This guide was very helpful. Completed successfully!

Second adhesive strip broke but I was able to pry the battery out very carefully with a plastic card.

JT Wieme - Contestar

This is an excellent guide, thank you. My Bluetooth once again works over A2DP after rearranging the screws.

thefunksoulbrutha - Contestar

Hi I tried this but after putting everything back together, my loud speaker and Touch ID don't work. Can anyone tell me why?

BMW Parts - Contestar

I'm having the same problem - touch and speaker don't work. Did you every find an answer? Thanks in advance.

Dan Turner -

Just disconnect the chips at the top of the phone and connect them again. That did it for me.

Nikolay -

when lifting the screen i accidentally pulled it together too hard and disconnected the ribbon cable from the home button, is there any way to re-attach it??

Freya - Contestar

I had an issue where my power button didn't work and the screen looked funny once I got it all put back together. For me the digitizer cable from step 15 was really hard to get back in all the way. I had to take it all apart again but it works fine now. What I did the second time was slightly lift the cable and make sure it did not come up with slight pressure. That let me know it was attached properly. Make sure all the cables are hooked up and not loose at all. Overall it was easier than I thought but there are alot of places things can go wrong. TAKE YOUR TIME!! :)

robertschurman - Contestar

I was running iOS 9.0.2 Jailbroken when I replaced my battery. I'm not sure why, but I assume some security feature prevented Touch ID from being enabled again, I tried reseating many times, checking grounds as mentioned in another comment, hard/soft rebooting, nothing worked. Unfortunately my last resort was to restore in iTunes and upgrade to iOS 9.3.1. Touch ID works fine now as does everything else, but unfortunately I lost my jailbreak for the time being.

So before you start, I recommend backing up your phone BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING and if you have issues after try restoring.

Andrew LaMarche - Contestar

Very unhappy

The repair was difficult, very difficult and time consuming. Mostly because the screws are tiny and are hard to work with, particularly putting back into the phone. The adhesive tape on the battery did not remove like the guide suggested it would, had to pry the battery loose from the phone which was very difficult. After replacing the battery and putting it all back together the phone now gets extremely hot (which is dangerous), has a weak cellular signal, and barely existent wifi signal.

Just take it in to apple for a battery replacement and save yourself the headache. I'm now out for the cost of this kit and will now have to buy a new phone since I voided the warranty by attempting this repair myself.

Frank Pigeons - Contestar

It all worked pretty well except for the damaged home button functionality. Touch ID is still working but the home button is not reacting to any other input.

svenstaub - Contestar

New iFixit battery is draining too fast. Three nights ago I successfully replaced the Lightning connector assembly and the battery in my wife's iPhone 5s. Immediately after reassembling the phone and turning it on I followed the instructions iFixit included with the new battery. The instructions were to drain the new battery to below 10% and then charge it uninterrupted back to 100%. Sitting idle with only the home screen on you can watch the battery drop a percentage point every 2 or 3 minutes. I found this DFU Restore help article http://help.ifixit.com/article/108-dfu-r... but the article only lists "issue with battery" as a reason to perform a DFU Restore.

David Foltz - Contestar

I am wondering, did the DFU correct the battery drain issue for you?

John Matson -

I've just replaced the battery in my 5s but now the phone doesn't appear to be charging, nor is it making the 'buzzing' feel when I plugged in the charger. I'm going to try not to panic too much and make my tea whilst I wait for the faintest signs of life appearing on the screen with it plugged in. Anyone else find this?

I'm pretty sure I've not damaged anything in the replacement although the sticky tape holding the battery in wouldn't pull out easily. I had to use a hairdryer to warm up the back of the phone.

Karina Townsend - Contestar

Great instructions! Unfortunately, on step 21, I accidentally, removed the audio and power button cable connector. Now I cannot seem to get the audio and power button cable connector back on. Kind of a bummer not to be able to power my phone on and off. Any suggestions for reconnecting the audio and power button cable?

J F - Contestar

If you mean this connector, it's just a matter of lining it up carefully and pressing it down so it snaps into place—the same as the other connectors in that series of steps. If you mean that you accidentally broke the connector socket off the logic board, I'm afraid that's a problem for a microsoldering expert.

Jeff Suovanen -

The guide is very helpful but I would suggest coloring coding the various screw with different colored markers so you do not get confused during reassembly. The glue tabs broke after a few seconds of lightly pulling on them. I used a hair dryer to heat up the glue and use a old best buy rewards card to slowly pry the old battery up. I also messed up the new glue when applying to the new battery so had to use double sided scotch tape to hold the battery in place. I have done a few repairs myself on my MacBook Pro and my iPod Classic, but this repair only took a total of 35 minutes. The repair was pretty easy and painless.

Sean - Contestar

I just completed this and other than getting a little overzealous with the second strip and having to do the heat/pry method it went exactly as the guide said. I even took the shortcut in the guide and used rubber bands and a soup can to hold the display rather than removing it completely. The adhesive strips are different than the ones in the guide but it's not rocket science to figure out how they go on.

I'm VERY happy with iFixit (my second purchase) and the guides provided. KUDOS!!!

Paul - Contestar

Vorsicht beim öffnen mit einem Saugnapf!! Dabei kann es passieren, dass man das Kabel des Homebuttons "abreist". Daher empfehle ich die Saugnapfzange, die bei iFixit angeboten wird.

Viel Erfolg beim Reparieren. ;-)

Björn - Contestar

I don't know what but something went wrong. The home button AND the Touch ID of my iPhone 5s don't work anymore. Is there anyone that had the same issue? How did you solve?

frankieromiti - Contestar

Can't believe managed this, what a sense of achievement, never thought mine would work properly. I used a suction cup but screen shot up and yanked the home button connector out. Fortunately not broken. Also, there was no connector cover.

Tips: I used a long fridge magnet and put screws in order of iFixit guide. Then replaced in reverse order. The fourth (non Magnetic) screw on the plate didn't seem to go back properly - I think the socket might have come out with the screw. Didn't seem to matter. The connectors are super fiddly but snap back in place. Helps to work out the positioning of components on underside so you know where to position when looking from top. I put everything on a big box on my desk to raise it to eye height (I'm v short sighted) that helped immensely. The digitiser connector cable (3rd removed near top) has a plastic ridge running down middle, and that fits into a slot in the socket - all 3 of those cable connectors snap shut. Dental floss, 2 cards and radiator heat for glue!

Gabe - Contestar

I finished replacing battery for my iPhone 5S today, while there is trouble I encounter during repairing. The Philips screw driver came with the iPhone 5S Replacement Battery Fix Kit is actually too large to take those screw out. It seems to be working fine with two screws near the right lower bottom of my phone (close to speaker), but it doesn't fit for the ones on the metal covers that hold LCD screen assembly cable connector and battery cable to the logic board. I had to work with LCD screen cable connected since it was too much hassle to remove it. I pushed very hard to release battery cable cover screws and stripped one of the screw heads. Please change that Philips screw driver to the correct size.

Zili Qiu - Contestar

when i took my 5s apart, i got the home button disconnected without a problem. powering the phone off was a problem,since the display is dead ,the whole phone was warm,i pushed the power button for a few seconds and slid my finger across the screen and it shut down and cooled off. removing the home cable went ok and the other cables . i use a refigerator magnet like businesses send out to hold the screws,works well one battery strip broke closer to the case side,was able to lift battery slightly and insert a credit card and ease it out.since the card was under the battery i pried against the back case with it ,not the circuit board. i use a pill bottle to hold small parts while waiting for parts ,for screws best to put back in where they go so you don't mix up or lose them.

keethpr - Contestar

Thought all was good, but no reboot after completion. Guess I go back in and check all connections... Wondering what fail rate is out of ten.

Jeff Pietsch - Contestar

I just &&^&^$^ ripped the home button cable ... nice

Jack Flynn - Contestar

To open it up I lifted one corner, inserted my flat spudger slightly and moved it around to pop the tabs. I didn't take off the screen and just used my wireless speaker and a rubber band to have the screen at 90 degrees. Then the white strips snapped right away even at a low angle. So i used my hairdryer while covering the rest of the back of the phone with aluminum foil. Then I butchered the battery trying to take it out but it didn't catch on fire and burn my house down so I guess it went OK. Of course I also didn't have tweezers so putting on the Touch ID bracket wasn't great.

Before putting the phone together I turned it on and tried Touch ID but it didn't work the first time while presses did. So I reseated the cable before having to take it apart and putting the bracket on again.

Oscar - Contestar

Not my first repair of small delicate things, but I'll add my vote for the adhesive strips not coming out and then during the very slow process of trying to remove the battery it caught on fire and that was that. So, as someone else commented on --had a phone that kept a charge for a while but worked fine to having a replacement screen for someone else iphone 5s in the future. My wife was ready to kill me when this all happened.

wd5ivd - Contestar

No problems following the directions. They are explicit. Worked perfectly on power up. Yea me!

Don't be in a hurry, don't drink a bunch of espressos before doing this. Go very slowly. Put all your screws down on white paper in orientation where they came out. Go very slowly opening the phone, It takes a little bit of force, but once it starts to open it will pry open just fine with a plastic smudger. The cables pop off easily but are difficult to get lined back up. Be careful of the connector next to the battery that sits near the 3 you'll remove, it may pop off too when you remove the battery. Getting the battery out is a PITA. Get the back of the phone HOT before trying to remove it. I found that using a pair of eyebrow tweezers worked great for getting that clip back on the home button connector.

I give it 5 out of 5. Bravo! Saved me a bunch of d'oh and dough.

scottcnevin - Contestar

Assembled the iPhone twice but I still only have the gray opening apple screen. What did I do wrong? My phone won't turn off either. As soon as i completed the first try, I hit the home button and the gray apple screen came on. No matter what I did, the screen stayed on even during the second try.

Jeanne - Contestar

Great instructions, if followed and time is taken moderate to easy DIY job.

I did not have a Spudger nor a new Battery Adhesive strip - didn't matter though as I used the blow dryer rather than removing as in video, and re-used the old and worked just fine.

As for a Spudger, save yourself and instead use a hair pin..yeh hair pin :p They are small enough and coated with a glue compound that is perfect for removing all connectors required to complete this job.

David Rossignol - Contestar

Hallo,

bei mir hat es super funktioniert. Hatte mir das Replacement Kit mit Akku und Werkzeug von ifixit bestellt, dazu sollte man eine spitze Pinzette und eine Schere bereitlegen. Die Klebestreifen sind mir prompt abgerissen, man muss sehr aufpassen, dass man damit nicht an einer der Ecken oder feinen Drähte hängen bleibt, von da aus reissen sie dann ein. Also mit dem Fön die Rückseite erwärmt, und mit zwei Kärtchen a la KV-Karte (eine allein ist zu weich) den Akku rausgehebelt. Der alte Akku ist dabei total verbogen, war nicht sehr elegant. Der Zusammenbau hat gut geklappt, jetzt noch den Akku voll laden, und hoffen, dass dann wieder laufzeitmäßig Ruhe ist.

Etwas pummelig ist die Klammer am Schluss auf den Anschluss des Home-Buttons drauf zu Klipsen, Man muss dabei erst das Blech auf der Oberkante einhängen, dann nach unten klappen und einschnappen.

Eingeschaltet und erstmal keinen Unterschied gemerkt, Akku meldet 46%. Also jetzt laden und dann weitersehen.

Danke Sam, Danke ifixit!

Moldy Snoopy - Contestar

I just finished replacing in battery in my wife's iPhone 5s. This is my first project with ifixit. I went by the video, not realizing the guides were available until I had completed it and was about to turn it on. I was HORRORIFED to learn the fours screws at top that hold down the screen connectors are DIFFERENT SIZES and have to go back into the hole they came out of or it could DAMAGE THE LOGIC BOARD!!!! That was never mentioned in the video!! The phone seems very slow down and is not downloading quickly on a known fast connection so I am not happy that such a critical detail was passed over in the video. Perhaps I have damaged the logic board after all.

David Gibson - Contestar

Not a fan on the video, Have the iPhone 5S, Model A1429, much easier as no home screen cable to be concern with, Battery fit good and plastic pry tool worked well also.

hugh wax - Contestar

A1429 is actually an iPhone 5—similar to the 5s, but we have a different guide for it. ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

Plus - maybe note the top of the iPhone has tabs that slide under the aluminum frame, small detail but good to know.

hugh wax - Contestar

Thanks for this! Pretty intense task. Had to recheck the connections when after the first try the touchscreen didn't respond. Wouldn't like to open and close the front repeatedly. All the tools from repair kit were necessary plus pincers for sliding back the home button cable bracket. Another one of the adhesive tapes under battery didn't come out and basically had to dig the old battery out – which certainly butchered the polymere battery for good, I guess. It's soft. If you would like to put the same battery back for some reason, make sure you don't use force nor pointy tools.

Jaakko Lehtonen - Contestar

What did you do to correct the unresponsive touch screen?

sumira -

Do I actually need the battery adhesive strips when i replace battery?

Michael Lombardi - Contestar

I watched the ifixit videos, read the instructions, and most importantly I read what the people said after replacing the battery. I found out there are three reasons why the home repairs go wrong. (1) The first is not keeping track of the screws. They are of different lengths, and putting a long screw where it does not belong will ruin the motherboard. Mark them with colored sharpies. (2) The second is not being able to remove the tape that is holding the battery. Use the heat gun!!! I broke the second tape even with the heat gun, and I had to use a credit card to pry it out. (3) The last one is not insulating the battery connector. A metal battery bracket (Step 15) goes over the battery connector, and it will short the battery. Put an electric tape over the battery connector. I think the third reason is why the phone starts acting crazy.

Mark dagyroid - Contestar

Really useful, now my iPhone is back to life :D

Martin Morgado - Contestar

This guide is very good but I still wasn't sure about a few details. But by watching some videos, including the one at the beginning of this guide, and reading some of the comments on this guide I was able to figure everything out. I went very slowly (the entire process took me about 5 hours), paying close attention to every detail. One of the adhesive strips broke when I was removing the old battery, but the dental floss trick worked very well. I'm glad this guide mentions the different lengths of the screws holding down the bracket over the front panel assembly connectors. I might have mixed them up if I didn't know they are different lengths. I had some trouble with the new adhesive strips, but I was able to get them to work even though they weren't installed exactly like the battery adhesive strips guide says to install them (you don't get a second chance with the strips).

David Erickson - Contestar

I was completely successful, although it was rather harder than indicated. Took me about 2 hours.

The battery replacement is different than illustrated if you buy the iPhone 5s battery replacement kit from iFixit: If I bought a repair kit, I'd very much like to see it illustrated exactly. There is a good way to install the battery replacement kit that does not appear to be documented, which guarantees proper placement of the battery such that the power connector is in the right place. It would also be good to have a little more guidance up-front for treatment of the battery cable. It takes a little careful folding, and there's also a little routing of the antenna cable that needs mentioning.

The touch id cable bracket reattachment is a little glossed over. There are two tiny tabs on the socket that fit into two tiny holes in the bracket, and then you just snap it down the tabs and holes acting as hinges.

Dan - Contestar

A very useful guide which I carefully followed to a successful battery change. I didn't remove the screen cables as that looked very fiddly. Instead I opened the screen to 90 degrees and used 2 rubber bands to secure it to the original phone box with a piece of foam between. That was a very steady way to ensure I didn't damage the cables.

adrt - Contestar

OMG. The instructions worked great, thank you! Now that the phone is fully buttoned up and running, time to clean up my mess and "recycle" the old battery.

wait...the old battery says "IFIXIT replacement battery"...WHYYYYYYYYYYY.

do NOT drink alcohol and watch venture brothers while performing this procedure.

nova noon - Contestar

Followed all instructions. Phone turns on fine and I even received a text, however, my touch screen is completely inresponsive. What should I go back and check? The four screws? The three attachments under that metal plate. This is my first apple repair and I was definitely in over my head. Anything helps. thank you.

Lindsey Bates - Contestar

well be carefull when removing the battery , i was not sucessfull with the adhesive removal and then i tried several times and succeded , but at the top most part , there is a little black mat like little buses , unfortunately , i ruined that half way , it was linked to the volume and the vibration tab together with the lock screen , so now i can not on my phone nor off , i can not add volume not nor reduce nor put vibration , i have to do that on settings , well be carefull with that black mat

franck ludovic - Contestar

Thank you so much for the help, I now have a mobile phone again instead of a car phone. Quick question though, I begin to experience an intermittently unresponsive touchscreen afterwards that is now now responding at all. I am unsure if the two are related but after chatting with folks, I was advised that perhaps something I did during the battery replacement is responsible. I have checked the digitalized cable connection and DFU mode. Do you have any advice?

sumira - Contestar

when the adhesive strips are broken , you can try using fishing line to remove the adhesive from under the battery - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gkCyl7kR...

also this method using steel wire seems even better - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W5GzU11q...

Sebastian Edinger - Contestar

Thank you. Great instructions. I bought your kit and was well worth it. Now I'll do my other iPhone 5s. The tricky part is putting the screws back in on the cable retainer since they are all different sizes and one is not magnetic. Also, folding the battery cable to mimic the original battery. It just feels wrong. use a plastic plunger.

rsimoes - Contestar

This was an excellent easy method to just follow the video pause at each step and then continued to see each step done. Only problem I had was dropping one of the screws that hold the battery cable. Thank is not a good idea in case you are wondering.

shorttoes1 - Contestar

Comme toujours, un tutoriel très bien fait qui m'a permis de redonner vie à un iPhone 5S à moindre frais.

Merci iFixit !

DeNiS SaNNoM - Contestar

Hey everyone! I just changed my phones battery and put everything back but now all i can see is a black screen. My phone seems to be charging and my itunes on the computer can detect that the phone is on but all I can see is a black screen. Does anyone know what the problem is?

Kahwan Eliza - Contestar

So I did this and now my phone doesn't read the battery correctly. It randomly shuts off and doesn't charge right. Did I break something or do I have a bad battery? Besides the issue your write up was on point. Thanks

Theodore Tripp - Contestar

Good instructions. Dealing with those teeny tiny connectors and screws is not for the faint of heart! My first attempt failed as the screen would not respond to touch. I opened it up again and after removing the upper (squarish) shield re-seated the connectors, one of which was not connected. Put it all back together and boom, all was well.

I now know why Apple charges $79 to replace the battery.

Steve Graff - Contestar

Thought I would add my two cents. First, it's an excellent kit and you have everything that you need. I also have professional tools but I used the tools in the kit. Only one tool that I didn't already have. Here is my advice for those who have problems with getting "adhesive out from under the battery', like I did. Use a card from a deck of playing cards. The better cards are 100% plastic (not 'coated' plastic cards), and it's perfect for sliding under and chiseling the foam adhesive from under the battery. I took the joker and cut it in half. You just need to take your time and work really slow. Pick up a set of kids birthday deck for fifty cents.

Sam Iron - Contestar

Why take the display off? Not neccessary.

Simon - Contestar

Iphone 5S stays in apple logo after battery change

Han Delissen - Contestar

Did you get a solution? I’ve the same issue. Thanks

Bernard Trillot -

I finished changing the battery of my iPhone. All is Ok but I opened and disassembled my iPhone 3 times to succeed.

The manual is not badly done but disassembly is very delicate when it is the first time. It is not easy to go back because we do not know if we pushed the connectors well, the handling of the screws which are very small is very delicate.

To be honest, I understand Apple to put special screws to close his iPhone because it is very risky to disassemble and discourage the general public is a good idea.

It is always easy for anyone who wants to buy a suitable screwdriver.

Last observation, I do not criticize Apple to stick its battery but I criticize the amount of glue it puts. It's way too much and it feels like she's doing it on purpose ...

Bernard Trillot -

Finally did it! Great instructions. I followed every step, but when removing the battery strips, the first one came off easily by constant pulling and keeping the grip always close to the battery, but the second one broke right after the second pull and vanished beneath the battery. First I tried doubled dental floss, but it was torn right away. Using an old credit card and a hair dryer did it. Unfortunately when removing the display it got loosened from its frame on the lower side. Applying some points of super glue during reassembly solved it - I hope so at least.

Stephan Röder - Contestar

thanks for the guide. i really had trouble putting in the 4 screws near the top, even with a magnetic screwdriver, they kept falling off.... any one have any tips on this? have another phone to do.

Thanks.

UltraRed - Contestar

You can increase the magnetic power of your driver using pretty much any magnet, so that it holds the screws more securely. If you really want to fine-tune it, get yourself one of these little guys. Otherwise, just use a pair of sharp tweezers to hold the screw in place while you thread it.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you!!!! This guide worked perfectly! I made the unfortunate mistake of removing all 4 screws before reading that they were different sizes. I was able to determine which were the 1.7mm screws, but the 1.3mm and 1.2mm were too close to tell so I just left out the screw from the bottom right. The phone works perfectly now touch ID and all!

Vincent Wagner - Contestar

Replaced battery successfully and it i back together with everything working, however I can't see to get the top of the screen to sit snugly in place. It is sitting proud of the case. The bottom sits in perfectly.. But something is stopping the top from seating. Don't want to force it.

danielcstokes - Contestar

Very nerve wracking but also very satisfying once completed! Invaluable guide, comments too.

Brian Riess - Contestar

Worked well. Lost one screw in the process: the non-magnetic one which you specifically mention in step 17. But three screws are enough to hold the cable bracket and the phone works magnificently. Thanks a lot for the detailed guide!

Ariel Huber - Contestar

Definitely the hairiest battery replacement I've ever done. Very upset with Apple's continued efforts to cost customers more money, by making battery replacement so hard. That being said, the guide needs work, as well. Please add the following to this guide:

1. Add note about the plastic + metal + glass from a previous comment.

2. Please add tricks for removing the glue. I didn't see the trick of pulling it out the side, or the dental floss until I'd bent the battery.

3. In the new tape instructions, please show where the non-sticky black tab part goes when putting the battery in. Mine ended up sticking up, instead of to the tape on the end on the battery, which made the battery stick to the fingerprint sensor cable. I worked it out, but would have helped a lot to know what to pay attention to and how it impacts things later.

4. Please add a visual guide to exactly what to line the new battery up with. "Line up the top" is one of the worst instructions I've ever read.

Kathleen Soule - Contestar

Awesome guide! I think I now have the confidence to replace the battery in hubs iPhone and maybe fix a few others I have laying around!

Thanks!!!

Cassandra - Contestar

Great guide however my only issue is the screen is black. It doesn't seem to turn on. I tried the old battery as well any that doesn't help either.

I have it plugged in right now trying to charge the battery

Any thoughts?

tech - Contestar

Just finished a second phone and battery. That one works perfect without issue.

Still no power on the first one.

tech -

Thank you all for this guide and for the valuable insights in the comments. I think this guide could be improved to make it more clear and to incorporate some of the options provided by others. The old adhesive strips broke off part way out so I retired to a combination of heat, dental floss, spudger and card to get the battery out. That was really the only significant difficulty. I think the time listed for completing this project is very optimistic unless you have already done this previously. Frankly it took me 40 minutes to study all of the steps and comments!!

Patrick Langvardt - Contestar

My replacement was a success. The suction cup would not lift my (intact) screen so I resorted to a razor blade between the metal and the glass, and that worked well and without damage. There is a little gap under the glass at the bottom left side of the glass (but away from the corner) that will be easier to get the blade under once you wedge it up. The case also gives way a little allowing the blade in there. I suggest you start there till the gap under the glass is big enough to get the spudger under, then use the spudger from there working your way to the right. The outer adhesive came off in one motion whereas the inner broke several times. However, with only about 1/4 of it removed I was able to easily lift the battery out with spudger+fingers without issue and without battery deformation. So for me, the challenge (30+min) was all about the opening and the battery was no big deal. I wouldn't recommend the method that has you putting the tweezers into the pentalobe screw holes to get the screen up.

anonymous 9746 - Contestar

Also, the battery came shipped with about 60% charge on it. So plan on spending an hour or so draining the battery (I used FT + video + flashlight + bright screen)

anonymous 9746 - Contestar

I am not one to often do reviews, either good or bad. I am writing this because this kit and the online step by step instructions are exceptional. Everything arrived quickly and well packaged, the tools are of good quality, nothing broke while doing the repair ( as some other online kits had broken tool reviews ). Immediately following the replacement I am extremely happy and hoping the lifespan of the battery is as good as this process has been. The moderate difficulty is accurate and should only be attempted by people with some degree of micro tool/part aptitude.

Michael Bennett - Contestar

i have replaced battery on iphone 4s, 6 and 6s plus previously, all with no issues. also replaced the whole screen assembly on iphone 6 which was much trickier than this, never had any problems before.

i thought the process had gone very well but when i put the screen back together i get vertical lines and no touch ID functionality. i was doing this for a friend so it really sucks.

i have tried EVERYTHING going back over my steps five of six times to make sure everything is right, the third cable at the top is definitely connected properly, all screw and brackets in place. and i’ve also been through with a clean little brush to clean all the connections etc. no luck!

VERY Frustrating :(

sarah - Contestar

The plastic spudgers you provide are so soft after one or two uses they become almost useless. When you modify your kits, have better ones fabricated. We don’t want to have to keep spending money on replacements when they can be made right the first time. Also the plastic adhesive broke before I could even start to release the battery. It was old and brittle. What does one do then? Use the plastic spudger? How when it’s so soft it bends. No wonder Apple charges an organ to replace this stuff. They probably go through a dozen spudgers just trying to replace one battery. And I’m a pretty handy guy.

james darden - Contestar

I agree with winternick … This did not work for me and now my phone is in pieces and I don’t want to risk putting it back together for risk of the batter now being damage by my attempts to figure out how to remove black tape at the base of the battery to try and find the adhesive tab which does not appears to exist on my iPhone 5S.

How extremely disappointing and at least an hour of my life that I won’t get back the same as my now useless phone.

Extremely disappointing.

Alun Williams - Contestar

Steps I used to get the battery out. Pulled the adhesive stips, they broke. Heated the back to soften the strips up. Used dental floss and it broke. I then decided to squirt a little IPA , rubbing alcohol, under the battery. Make sure it is the good stuff and not the watered down type. I then used a plastic credit card and pryed it out without too much trouble. I believe the alcohol softened up tape. If not mechanically inclined I reccomend spending the 80 dollars from apple.

Dave

david Ingram - Contestar

3 things i learned and may be of value to you:

1) Removing the screen was easy using a flat razor blade as the pry bar, rather than the spudger.

2) I found it wasn’t necessary to detach the screen at the top. Rubberband the screen at a 90 degree angle to a small box or something similar (see the illustration in step 13). Then you can skip steps 17-22! This prevents accidentally messing up the cables at the top of the phone, or putting the wrong screws in the wrong holes.

3) Take your time on the adhesive strip removal! Cut the black plastic joining the two and pull straight out slowly one at a time. I got one completely out but only about 20% of the second one. Once again, skip the spudger, a credit card worked great to pry the battery up, no heat required in my case. Start toward the bottom left of the phone to avoid the squishing the volume button circuits at the top.

SquidTurbo - Contestar

After replacing the battery, my iPhone comes up with a message at the start saying: “Touch ID can’t be used on this device anymore”. Well, my iPhone Menu still allows me to configure it, but after 2 seconds it just says: "Touch ID can’t be used on this device”. Seems like iOS10 doesn’t allow any 3rd party parts.

Daniel Müller - Contestar

The adhesive strips come with my 5s battery replacement set cannot be removed from the blue film. It sticks on it and cannot be peeled at all.

Waylon Chen - Contestar

Overall great guide. I have followed it very carefully with 100% success. Here’s some advice:

1) Do yourself a favor and get the iFixit 5s battery replacement kit. The tools are really good and help a lot.

2) via goldenimaging: Use tape to limit the amount the displayed can be opened. Zero chance of ripping the touch ID cable.

3) Apply heat even before attempting to pull the adhesive strips - the back of your phone should be hot to the touch. They become more elastic and don’t rip so easily. But still pull as slowly as humanly possible and resist the temptation to go any faster :) Re-apply heat before second strip.

Michal Pawlowski - Contestar

I followed all the steps in this guide to the letter, reassembled the phone and had a problem, some white lines appeared on the screen. I then disconnected and reconnected the battery, but that did nothing. Then I unplugged and replugged the LCD cable and now I have a black screen with two white lines and I can’t do anything. Anyone knows what to do??

Joaquín Sánchez - Contestar

Hi Joaquín—try the tips in this post: White Vertical Lines on LCD. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Ohne Lupenbrille hätte ich das nicht hin bekommen! Die Klebestreifen unter dem Akku sind natürlich gerissen, mit Föhn und Plastikkarte , Geduld und nochmal Föhn, hab ich den Akku dann herausbekommen. Das ist ja ein Puzzle in Miniaturformat. Danke für die Anleitungen hier!

Martin Carstensen - Contestar

Here’s a tip. BEFORE you disassemble your phone, check the single set of adhesive strips that iFixit sends you. Both sides (blue and pink) should peel back easily. A number of posts here point out how the blue side of the strips was fused to the plastic backing. Mine was too. Alas, my phone is disassembled, and now i have to find new strips before i can reassemble. iFixIt should really send two sets of strips, and/or fix the quality control issue on these strips.

peterbastian - Contestar

Everything was going fine until I tried to use my adhesive strips. I was sent the bad strips on Dec 12 as mentioned above. The strips are welded to the blue tape and can’t be removed without ruining them. IFixIt - please fix this quality control issue. It is terrible to have your phone all opened up with the old battery out to realize you can’t use the new strips. I was very pleased that I live very near the iFixIt headquarters and got fantastic service from an employee at the facility to quickly replace it. But this won’t work for 99.99% of others with the problem who will be stuck waiting for a replacement.

SC - Contestar

I completely destroyed my phone by ripping the home button cable. The phone came apart with minimal force, probably because I drained the battery down (as recommended). This probably warmed up the glue. If this is the case, there should be a specific warning!

william - Contestar

All done, and nothing. No screen activity, no buzz. I did a “hard reset” by pressing both the power and home button at the same time. No activity at all. I’m charging it a while, then I guess I’ll open it back up and check the connections.

The guide was excellent and you guy’s comments help too! I’m just bummed that I’m all done and it didn’t work.

Brian Kowald - Contestar

The guide was excellent. The comments help too! However, I’m all done and it didn’t work. I’m charging it awhile. The phone is warm like the battery is charging. No screen activity at all. I did a hard reset, but pressing the home and sleep/wake button at the same time.

Bummer - its dead. Any ideas or suggestions? Open it up and check the screen connections?

Brian Kowald - Contestar

Yep, open it back up and double-check your work. One word of caution—if you disconnected/connected the display cables without disconnecting the battery first, you may have blown the backlight filter. If shining a bright light on the display allows you to see a faint image, the backlight circuit is dead. This is a common mistake and it is repairable, but requires specialized equipment and microsoldering skills. You will likely need to visit a repair shop if that’s the case.

Jeff Suovanen -

Thank you. The replacement battery is a whole lot less expensive than a new iPhone. The advice in the video about the board for identifying the different parts was cagey. Thanks.

Jane Gravely - Contestar

Anyone interested in the time to complete full steps (with manual remove screen, and complete screen removal per steps) as a first time repair person:

~3.5 hours.

Jason Melling - Contestar

One minor point missed in the guide (iPhone 5s), had me proceed to re-assembly without confirming one point which caused me to damage the screen on re-assembly.

The issue is there was no mention of the small metal flange at the top edge of the screen. It should be mentioned to ensure the flange is properly engaged before closing the assembly. It is small and easily missed in the cramped space once cables are re-attached.The result was in trying to seat the screen with the flange not engaged, I damaged the screen and rendered it unusable..

James Gragg - Contestar

Tool kit: battery plug screw tip did not fit.

I used a screwdriver for my eye glasses.

The case was stuck together requiring bracing the iPhone while both pulling as hard as I could with one hand and my other hand prying with tool. The battery was stuck even though I used a hair dryer a lot. That blew away the battery plug cover screws. The search with a magnet recovered them in about an hour. With all the heat I could get, both strips broke just past the corner. Hard work to pry the battery up with tool deforming battery, but it remained stable (discharged to 5%).

Working good so far even though I pulled the button cable tight in disassembly.

David Smith - Contestar

I just replaced my battery on my Iphone 5S with the kit from ifixit, worked perfect, took around 30min. ifixit sent all the tools you will need to make this an easy fix. Thanks ifixit!!

R Morgan - Contestar

Everything worked great, except I have a bit of grey lines at the bottom of the screen, and a black smudge in extreme lower left of screen. I didn’t remove screen during battery replacement, and may have tweaked the screen during reinstall. Be careful with the screen…

David Albertsen - Contestar

I just replaced my battery with no mistakes following the guide and now it wont turn on at all. Reopened it and checked all connections and everything looks fine.. not sure what else to say. Pretty disappointing

Luke Finney - Contestar

Just finished replacing the battery in my daughter’s iPhone 5S.  Screws are very, VERY small (lost two in the process) so be extra careful.  Adhesive strips holding the old battery ripped by the tab, even after warming up the bottom of the phone.  So had to use the iFixti spudger, and eventually a thin putty knife to pry it loose.  Main problems I had were first getting the touch control to work, then the power/mute/volume controls working.  The comments in Step 21 really helped, but it also took a LOT of patience and failed attempts before I finally got the two cables on right again.  Best advice I could give would be to give yourself lots of time for this upgrade and to have a friend helping with lots of time and patience as well.  Good luck!

William Sherman - Contestar

I left the glass screen protector on my phone when I opened it. Also, I did not remove the screen, but secured it at an 80 degree angle to lessen strain on the cable.

As I was prying the battery out, I bent the metal piece that the Touch ID cable bracket hooks onto (located next to the bottom edge of the battery). I was able to bend it back into the place and successfully replace the bracket. Overall, the hardest part was getting the battery out. My battery was mangled by the time I pried it out, not to mention the risk of damage to the phone during the removal process. Also, I applied the adhesive to the phone rather than the battery. I reconnected the battery and aligned it before pressing it down into the adhesive.

Before replacing the Touch ID bracket and closing the phone, I tested it to make sure all my connections were solid - that the phone powered on, that Touch ID worked, and that everything was functioning.

Esther Miller - Contestar

Just an idea. Get a 12 egg, egg box. Use a felt tip to number or letter the bottom of each cup. Use a small magnetized screwdriver to pick up the pieces. Write down the stages and number them in order to correspond with the egg box.

henry - Contestar

broke my phone. &&^& you

dooby2 - Contestar

Well I went through the whole thing, and very much appreciate the commenters as well as the talented folks at iFixit. I broke the clip for the touch ID, but a helpful commenter made me feel like that was not a fatal flaw so I pressed on. Everything works well except the WiFi radio, which was, I think, a pre-existing condition.

Also I could not get the screen to fully snap back in pkace but I figure the enemy of good enough is perfect. Thank you all

Sarah Sorlien - Contestar

Successfully replaced the battery of my sister’s old phone. First time doing this kind of repairs, the hardest part for me was to open the iPhone, afraid of breaking the cables. The trickiest steps: the small parts, those nasty screws and plugin back the TouchID required a lot of patience.

Thank you very much for the guide btw

armandocabal - Contestar

Got it done. Not horribly difficult but then again, I’ve been dissecting Apple products for years.

On suggestion - I often do this on a project where there are lots of little screws. Take a photo of the innards of the phone and print it out. Lay the photo on the table, and then put all your screws on the image exactly where they came from. Makes it a lot easier to reassemble!

Andrew Ringsmuth - Contestar

This was my very first repair. I’m not very handy, but thanks to the very detailed instructions I was able to successfully replace my battery without breaking anything! I didn’t fully remove the front of the phone, just propped up as shown, and had no issues. I used a hair dryer to warm the phone before removing the battery sticky strips. I used an egg carton to hold the parts from each step. I was nervous about attempting this, but I didn’t want to spend the money to have the battery on my already-second-hand phone replaced in the apple store. I’m glad I did it myself!

Maxine Langenfeld - Contestar

I didn’t think the instructions were detailed enough and the pictures were not up close enough. The problem with these companies nowadays is they think every consumer is some punk kid with no sense to even bother with directions and they have itty bitty fingers to better deal with small parts. The small parts, in this case, is on Apple. But the guide…not nearly enough explanation and I don’t like that the 25 dollar kit did not come with any instructions whatsoever.

Damian Ladue -

@beantownfan73 Every image in this guide can be expanded to its original resolution (~36 megapixels in most cases) so you can see absolutely every detail. As for “the 25 dollar kit did not come with any instructions whatsoever” … You do realize you’re literally writing this complaint on the instructions? Right?

Jeff Suovanen -

This was my first iPhone repair and it wasn’t easy! Definitely not as easy as they make it out in the video and guide. The little suction cup thingy didn’t do well; ended up separating the glass from the piece just below it. Now the top part of my phone is sticking up slightly cause that part would not snap back into place.

The adhesive strips were a real pain. I had to use a hair dyer and even then it was still a pain so I removed one strip and left the other one on there as it was still intact and very very sticky

The part that took me longest was reattaching the Touch ID and bracket.

All in all it wasn’t bad, but still, next time i’ll take mine to a repair shop.

Damian Ladue - Contestar

If you are: 1) a person of average or above intelligence 2) not a technician 3) not willing to buy an iSclack, DON’T TRY TO REPLACE THE BATTERY ON AN iPHONE 5S. If you do, this will happen: you will take your pristine but older phone, which has never been opened up before and has no other defect other than an aging battery and turn it into an iPhone shaped paper weight. And you will waste far more than “1 hour” before you discover you need to go to the Apple Store and get a new iPhone. And you will not be happy. I am pretty confident we followed all the steps correctly, because after putting everything back together, the phone worked for 10 seconds until we could not use the touch ID and home button. In de-briefing, we determined our problem was likely that we damaged the cable for these functions when we used the “suction cup” and prying tool (which were provided) to open the phone.

Jon Kopitzke - Contestar

This was a pretty straight forward guide. I used the soda can method to hold the screen side of my phone after unclipping the home button cable. I was a lot easier and cut the repair time in half. Just remember to take your time and be audibly alert went clicking in your connectors and if you have resistance, start over to make sure that your connectors are lined up! Thank you.

iScott - Contestar

Two suggestions to modify this guide: up the difficulty and lose the video. You need to reshoot one showing how difficult is is to get the battery out of an old phone. The biggest problem was by far the adhesive holding the battery to the case. Maybe this came out easily when you did your first teardown, but for a 2-3 year phone these are now like hard glue. I had to use a combination of plastic card and spudger to remove it, and ended up bending the battery pretty severely. I was afraid it was going to burst into smoke and flames any time but fortunately no problem. It also seemed strange that the replacement kit did not include new adhesive strips. Is that because we don’t need them? I just left them out and the phone is working just fine. Definitely not a repair for beginners.

Will - Contestar

Thank you for your feedback! We have a video that offers tips and tricks on removing battery adhesive from the existing battery, and how we recommend installing new battery adhesives. You can find that video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xthi6DOx...

At this time only our fix kits include the adhesive and the part-only option is just the battery by itself. The part-only option is typically chosen by users who do battery repairs on a regular basis and already have adhesive (and tools) on hand. For quick reference, we carry custom-shaped adhesive separately here. Alternatively, you may be able to find something similar to this from a local hardware store which can do the job as well.

Kadan Sharpe -

After changent battery, my 5s stay on the white logo, and restart over and over again, how to solve this problem?

David Chen - Contestar

I have this same issue too. Did you ever find a solution?

Nathan Pugh -

My wife’s 5s was my first phone to take apart. It was nerve wracking. I had to take the phone apart 3 times before the phone was back up and running. However I feel very confident and comfortable in doing it again. The battery sticky tape did break so I spent a good amount of time on getting the battery out. And I dropped one screw twice on the floor. Took awhile to find it. But after 3 hours I have it down. And the phone is up and running. Thank you for keeping us going.

Chris Costello - Contestar

I am not able to open One 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw

One 1.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

step 17 what can i do ?

Happy Bhati - Contestar

@Happy Bhakti I haven’t done this repair yet, but have been reading all the comments. You can leave the display attached. Here is a comment I saved:

I found it wasn’t necessary to detach the screen at the top. Rubberband the screen at a 90 degree angle to a small box or something similar (see the illustration in step 13). Then you can skip steps 17-22! This prevents accidentally messing up the cables at the top of the phone, or putting the wrong screws in the wrong holes.

dcasali - Contestar

Just replaced the battery in my four-year-old iPhone 5s. Only two minor hiccups for me; first, after reading the warnings about the old adhesives, I used my heat gun on the case in hopes of loosening the strips. That helped with the first strip I pulled, the one closest to the outside edge of the phone, but the second one ripped. The answer for that one was heat gun on the underside while lifting the battery, and then heat gun under the battery until the tape let go. Second, that home button bracket is a PITA to get back on! I tried at least 10 times, and the 10th time it fell off it also fell off my workbench. After searching around on the floor I reassembled the phone without it. But the good news after all that angst and frustration, the phone works beautifully. It powered right up, and apps I have that used to drain my old battery within minutes are no match for the iFixIt battery. So far, so good. And by the way, the iSclack is a very good investment; I got it for this replacement and am glad I did.

davidl3998 - Contestar

Thank you for great instructions. Only took this 72 year old guy 2.5 hours, but I did not lose any of the tiny screws. Most time consuming part was getting the battery unstuck. Thanks again. BH, fromTexas

Bill Holmes - Contestar

hi,

replacement went fine, phone worked a couple days after first charge. won’t turn on now. I get the grey apple screen when plugged into power socket. help pleaz

sylvain mauger - Contestar

Just did this and it wasn’t too bad, except for a couple things. I had to pull pretty hard to get the front panel separated, so I could disconnect the home button/touch id cable. Also, the old battery took a long time to get out since both of the adhesive strips snapped. I ended up using the flat end of the spudger to keep prying the battery a bit at a time until I got it out. The battery got pretty bent up, but it didn’t start smoking or burst into flame so that’s good I guess.

Reassembly was easy. However, once I got the phone back together I noticed that I now have what looks like grey smudges at the top edge of my screen. Also, if I press too hard on the screen it goes completely black. Anyone else have these issues?

Blake Patches - Contestar

Update: Turns out the screen doesn’t completely shut off, just the backlight. Anyone else have this happen?

Blake Patches -

If you are over the age of 30 or have bad eyesight like I do, DO NOT BUY THIS KIT ON A DARE! It is a complete waste of money as you end up with a non-functional phone and a spare battery for nothing. Just buy the new phone and save yourself the stress and headache.

Leonard Thornton - Contestar

I’ve seen people from roughly ages 8 to 80 do this successfully. Some of the top contributors on this website are north of 60. There’s always an element of risk, but instead of calling the kit a waste of money, maybe you could tell us something more helpful, like which part(s) gave you trouble and specifically what happened. That way folks can evaluate for themselves whether they want to give it a try. PS: If you don’t want to do it yourself, that’s completely understandable, but any decent repair shop (or Apple themselves) can swap the battery for you. “Buy the new phone” is not helpful advice. Should you also buy a new car when your tires get worn?

Jeff Suovanen -

Installation completed but removing the old battery took me one hour, it is the most difficult part!

Marko Pavic - Contestar

The adhesive strips did break. I think they were too old since the phone had the original battery. I managed to get the strips out by prying the other end of the battery up enough to get a hold of the strips with tweezers. Watch those tiny screws. During reassembly I lost one of the screws on the screen connector cover. I will have to order a replacement set.

Marci Nord - Contestar

Got it all back together but apple logo showing and nothing more. What’’s wrong ? Also saw nothing in the video we used that talked about removing the adhesive behind old battery - would that be an issue? Did not think so because phone powered bk up with apple logo on the screen and appears to want to stay there????? Help!

Debi - Contestar

Put it together and it appears everything is in order and running (5s)! Bit of a note when it comes to the battery adhesive and putting the new one in. Be sure to plug the top connector for the battery in prior to setting the adhesive to the case. Made the mistake of not doing it and spent 30 minutes trying to finagle the connector into place. Thank you for the guide!

Marc Erickson - Contestar

Bonjour les amis,

Aprés avoir remplacer la batterie j’ai constaté que la touche id ne fonctionnait plus.

J’ai donc redémonté le phone et j’ai constaté que la prise de la carte mère n’était pas bien enfoncée, après l’avoir remise en place la Touch ID est a nouveau fonctionnelle.

Vérifiez donc si tout est bien remis en place.

J’espère avoir aidé.

Capouet - Contestar

If you see the Apple logo, for me, it meant that the company (not iFixit) sent me a 5 battery instead of a 5S battery which has a different and smaller connector. Phone wouldn’t start but when i plugged it in to wall charger, Apple logo would show for a few seconds, go off, then come on again and repeat.

Mark - Contestar

I had the Apple Logo symptom occur as described above. I got the iFixit replacement battery for the 5s, the battery connector fit as it should. What I did to fix it was to just take it apart again, unseating all the connectors that had been previously disconnected (Home Button, Three Display flex cables, and battery connector) and RE-SEATED them all. Apple logo problem fixed! (for me…) I’ve done 3 of the 4 iPhone 5s’ for my family, the 4th battery is on its way!

The first one took me an hour, the two after took about 20min each…

One problem for me was bending the bracket that held the home button flex cable clip secure. Be careful with that one! (figures it’s first!)

I have a hot air gun I used to soften the adhesive strips for removal by heating the aluminum outside of the case. All three (really six) of them snapped so I had to gently pry the batteries up to get a hold on the strips again. It was a real problem and scary having the batteries bend. You don’t want a chemical fire in your face!!

wbfranklin -

Wow, whilst that was a challenging fix. The guide was great (and both disassembly and assembly videos). Removing the adhesive in one pull failed on both sides for me…and only careful levering allowed me to finally get the battery out (quite bent). The remaining adhesive just pulled away. Again adding the next adhesive strip was fiddly and a little too much of the black was left standing up (1-2ml) after reseating battery, so I taped it on the top of the battery so it was flat when closing the case. Also, those screws were very tiny - wow! The home button clip was hard. Be patient, go slowly…watch those videos a couple of times before starting. Thanks iFixit…I really did!

Jules Burt - Contestar

went without hitch. brilliant and fun…

neillcville - Contestar

Phone was working fine immediately after repair but now it doesn’t seem to charge. The lightning port clearly works as it knows when I’ve plugged in but it just leaves the apple logo screen turning on and off and the phone doesn’t heat up at all as you’d expect when charging it. If I leave it off charge for a bit though it goes to the run out of battery screen however.

conradevilbob - Contestar

It was long and tedious but I did it! It took me:

-20mins Dissassembly

-30mins Battery Removal

-15mins Installing New Battery

-20mins Reassembly

(Take note, this was my first battery swap)

Here are a few tips for beginners (so you dont make the same mistakes I did):

-Organise your screws propraly

-Be very careful with the removal and installation of the adhesive strips (its very tedious)

-Reinstall the screen from top to bottom (VERY IMPORTANT, BELEIVE ME) because otherwise you’ll need to remove it and put it back. Also, watch out not to crack the plastic besel aroud the screen.

TurtleInItsShell - Contestar

Followed directions. Watched video. Have to throw phone in garbage now.

Concerned user - Contestar

The guide was invaluable. I had no issues with the complete battery change out. I had my orig iPhone 5s battery that when I took it out it was amazingly wrinkled and looked aged. I did pry the battery out since I could not get a grip on the adhesive, but if you go slow, the adhesive slowly gives way. I think all the stories of people having issues just sounds like they go too fast and use too much force. Patience is a virtue when inside an apple product. I was pretty nervous but after I had dropped the phone and it looked like that caused all sorts of power issues I just guessed right that the old batter could not take getting banged around that last time. Thanks so much for the guide, I could not have done it without you and your tools.

obchris - Contestar

Just did the replacement, went well. I snapped off both adhesive strips about half way through. Some heat and a plastic wedge to remove the battery. Worked out great in the end, about 35 minutes!

richardhaukka - Contestar

Awesome guide. No chance to do the exchange without it. The hardest part was the removal of the adehsive strips. mentioned by others before heat and patience help. Would be great to have a seperate guide for the reassembly.

Johannes Mintzlaff - Contestar

Well I finished the battery install in my 5S. One of the adhesive strips broke. With heat and carefully prying the battery up(discharged to 1%) I managed to snag the strip of adhesive with my tweezers and pull it out successfully! This is the second battery from IFixIt that I have installed in the phone. The first one lasted less than one year. My battery life app indicated that the battery had a high to very high wear level. As I was waiting for the battery to discharge I noticed it went from 40% to 1% in a snap of my fingers.

After the new hard start for the new battery, my battery life app is indicating a very low wear level of only 4%. Not sure if I will attempt to replace the adhesive strips that I messed up, but will call IFixIt to see.

I purchased this replacement battery kit at Fry’s.com. The new battery was slightly different in size than the old one. Particularly, the battery connector was bigger. A challenge to position it to reconnect.

Hopefully, my phone will make it to Sept/Oct. Fingers crossed.

Chris Courtney - Contestar

Well written guide. The advise using dental floss is invaluable. First, I used it from the bottom end and retrieved the inner broken adhesive. Then a plastic could be used to lift the battery and get the battery off the remainder of the outer adhesive.

New battery works well. Thank you!

[deleted] - Contestar

Did the procedure twice. No luck, same behavior each time. It powers up fine, and seems OK, video works but no audio. Then it starts to get hot. Battery shows 1%, but then start something like Safari and it may show 24%. Or 32%. Then within 2 minutes, back to 1%, BSOD and it reboots. I wonder if the battery is bad? Looks like the end of the road for this one.

Kim Leavitt - Contestar

I followed the instructions for changing the battery exactly. The hardest thing to reassemble was the home button connector and metal clip. I was able to pull out the battery adhesive strips with a few breaks but I could grab the fragments with a tweezer and keep pulling them out. On first reassembly I got a bad screen image and no touch response. I recommend you test your phone before you snap the case back together. I found one of the cables had come unsnapped so I had to redo all that more carefully. The second try everything worked great. I am very pleased that my 5s is now back like new again at such a low cost of repair.

dwerrbach - Contestar

I knew something was wrong when I pulled the screen and did not see battery and other parts underneath. Apparently, my screen separated from the frame. :( I never took an iphone apart before. 5s. Trying to keep the cables from stretching as I attempted to remove the frame was tricky. I got the bottom up with the home button, and was able to work the clips around and get the rest of the tray up.

I had no trouble removing the battery even when the tapes broke. I also had no problem removing the plate with the 4 screws but did not get the heads up that the screws were different sizes. I knew the short ones were on the bottom- but 1.2 and 1.3 mm diff? wtf?

Changed the battery. Put the parts back together without sealing the phone, and nothing. I figured I wrecked the screen cables when the screen separated and I was clueless. But the battery was charging since the phone was heating up.

On order is a new screen assembly. If I didn’t wreck the main board with the wrong screw I might be in business.

sashusmom - Contestar

My new screen assembly came today. I got it connected and the screen came to life!! Yay me. I can’t move the home button with touch cable yet cause the screw is stuck and I am waiting for a better set of tools to come. The touch portion of the screen is not working so I need to redo the cable connections. This is definitely a learning process. But I was willing to lose an old phone or make a small investment- < $50 -to see if I can bring it back to life. Halfway there. At least I did not kill the board due to mixed up screws. Now they are color coded and I was able to mount the short ones side by side on duct tape to see which one was the shortest. I have a good eye, not calipers lol. I will update when the tools come. Needless to say I did not button up the phone yet. A good learning experience for me.

sashusmom - Contestar

Happy ending. New tools came today- a better phillips tip, and the home button with touch ID was removed from the old assembly. Had trouble removing the screws from the new home button on the new screen assembly. Ended up breaking cables to get to the screws so I was now committed. Finally the stripped screws came out with a rubber glove and the pentalobe screwdriver for pressure!! replaced the old home button in the new assembly, had trouble with an apple bootloop- pinned it to the front camera assembly cable being really finicky. Got everything working- took 4 days, a lot of patience, and I learned a lot. For $50 bucks, brought my old 5s back to life. :) 59 YO that is very determined, and didn’t mind making an investment in parts. If I didn’t break the cables when the screen separated it would have been $30 cheaper.

sashusmom - Contestar

I dit it! Few clues: 1) the display doesn’t need to be disconnected. I let it perpendicular and fixed it to a small box; 2) Heating the rear case is mandatory both for the standard procedure and even more if you need to use “unconventional” methods like dental floss (as I did); 3) be careful and check the space for benting the battery cable. The male connector must land just over the female connector: there isn’t too much space to bend the cable in case of positioning error. In short: the procedure worked well and the phone seems brand new! KUDOS!

Piergiorgio Rovaris - Contestar

I fixed my 5 year old iPhone 5S using this guide. This was the first time I fixed any phone. I’ve only fixed video game consoles before, and thought this was harder due to the smaller size and how fragile the parts are. This is something that you should take your time and go slowly. It’s not difficult, but more frustrating than anything due to small clips and the adhesive.

The screen was popping out due to the battery being old. The screen is set on a plastic frame that is set inside of the metal bottom. My screen popped out before the frame did. I was able to jimmy the frame out, but it was hard and no guide talked about that as a possibility of happening.

Removing the battery is hard due to the adhesive. Just can’t get around that part. I used an exacto knife carefully. I wouldn’t recommend it

There is a small clip for the Home button. The notch on the bottom of the clip is facing the bottom of the phone.

When putting the screen and frame back on, push the bottom and top at the same time. It snaps in straight.

Tony Ortega - Contestar

Hi Tony! Great job on your repair! As for the plastic frame separation, it sounds like you’re describing the warnings and procedure in step 3, but I’m glad you figured it out!

Sam Goldheart -

Thank you so much! I can fix many things but have never tried electronics repair to this level. My son and I replaced his battery and even with a few oops moments it is now operating after an hour plus of work. We pried the screen a little to hard after it wouldn’t budge and when it did the home button clip went flying and cable seperated. I had doubts that it would work after that. We also struggled with removing the battery tape after the tabs snapped off but we worked fishing line under the battery and lightly pried as we went. This was the most time consuming part. Many thanks to the original poster and all the tips in the comments. So long as you read through the steps and use some of the tips, you should be successful too.

Neal Ludwig - Contestar

Former Genius here (always hated that title). I skimmed through and was surprised that there’s little mention about discharging static electricity. There are instances where one can damage internal components with static buildup. I suggest getting a static mat or grounding strap and make sure your cat is put away :)

drespengler - Contestar

Many thanks for this detailed guide. Everything worked out perfectly and the phone has new life! Thanks also for the good tools-kits

Willi Egger - Contestar

Being 70 years old I was a bit apprehensive about me being able to do this repair. I read the instructions and watched he video a couple of times and went for it. The case came open using the suction cup and spugger method…..no problem. The entire disassembly went start to finish with no real problem. I warmed the case with a heated rice bag as one poster suggested but broke both adhesive strips anyway. The plastic card trick got the adhesive cut easily. The only other difficulty was getting the home button connector bracket locked back down. Got it to go after several tries. Took and hour and forty five minutes start to finish. Phone works fine after reassembly.

Thanks for the tool kit, written instructions and video. Money well spent.

Jim Platt

Jim Platt - Contestar

Great guide, thank you! Replacement took me about 45 minutes and I’m a novice at repairing phones and such.

Everything was very straight forward and easy until the adhesive removal - which seems to be a common theme.

I used a heating pad and unwaxed dental floss and that did the trick, no trouble. I bought the isclack opening device since I plan on doing a couple phones after this one (if continues to go smoothly) and thought it was worth the price to not screw up the home connector.

Like a couple other people, connecting the home button connector again was more difficult than the picture leads you to believe. I would have loved this step being part of the video instructions.

Thanks again!

Caitlin Lucia - Contestar

Hi everybody, I would ask a question. Why make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cable in this step?

Because i’m just finished to replace battery, and now screen is total black. It’s not work

Thanks

Stefano Cavaglieri - Contestar

the thing with “the metal bracket covering the home button cable”…. in order tout that back you have to try around a bit. on the photos you can see which way it should go on. I personally was not able to do the sliding-to-th- right thing. It went on and I was suddenly able to clip the lower part down and voila. I quit it was a little luck (-: GREAT GUIDE! Thanks.

david704 - Contestar

It looks my phone was repaired or refurbished by a 3rd party; the battery was stuck in with glue rather than adhesive strips. Had to struggle around with a card to get the battery out and then carefully clean the excess out from the back of the chassis. Very annoying, but great guide.

QuantumPelican - Contestar

Done all fairly painlessly. Took less than 30minutes.

- Yes, iSclack is definitely worth it. Separates the case in one quick, simple move.

- As others have said, you can skip steps 17 to 22. I did, and it made things simpler (you just have to be careful to keep hold of the top half of the iPhone and make sure you don’t strain the cable)

- Removing battery adhesive the only tricky bit. I warmed up the phone but the adhesive strips broke. However I managed to pry the battery old and then removed the old adhesive.

TAKE IT SLOW AND EASY and it should all go fine.

Roland Denning - Contestar

How long do I have to let the new battery charge before I can attempt to turn it on?

Robert Mertens - Contestar

You can try turning it on right away. New batteries usually come with a decent amount of charge in them already (it’s not good for the battery to leave it fully discharged for long periods). If the battery seems dead and the phone won’t turn on, try charging it for 30 minutes with a known good charger. If it doesn’t turn on after that, you’ve got some other issue.

Jeff Suovanen -

Ich habe den Akku bei einem 5s getauscht. Es fährt problemlos hoch, aber der Akku wird nicht geladen! Die Anschlüsse habe ich nochmal alle kontrolliert. Müsste eigentlich alles passen.

Hat jemand eine Idee, was das Problem sein könnte?

Danke schon mal, Kerstin

Kerstin Berger - Contestar

Excellent guide, i bought the battery and tools, and all worked as expected. The adhesive strips are extreamly aggressive, lots of heat and prying will be needed to remove the battery. the little clip that goes over the touch button connector was pretty difficult to re-install also. But overall, it was pretty painless. i didnt remove the screen, just rubber banded it to a couple of pieces of wood i fabricated up for the job. So far, the new battery made a world of difference, but i would expect some improvement over a 4 yo battery.

Jeff Pinter - Contestar

I completed this at the end of 2018, and it is a very thorough guide. The adhesive tabs broke off during my repair (this was my first, and there will be many more to come now that I have discovered this site). The tip about the dental floss worked really well for me. I used my wife’s hair dryer to heat up the back of the case and then slipped dental floss behind the battery and gently flossed the battery out. When I finished putting everything back together, it all worked perfectly. As long as you don’t try to use too much force anywhere during this guide, it is a very simple repair!

Jayden Booth - Contestar

This is my second time replacing the battery on my 5S. The first time went well though the phone never held charge for very long, but it at least wasn’t dying at 30% anymore. My kids used it for almost 3 more years. Now on replacing again I’m having problems. When charging for the first time it started out at 7% and charged very unevenly — seemed to hang at 34% and 77% but finally said 100%. Then in trying to use some apps to drain the battery again the battery readings were jumping all over the map and we were getting blue screens and random reboots and the phone heating up. I am trying to restore the phone and that completed, but restoring a backup isn’t working in time before it reboots. We did not remove the display in replacing the battery, so we didn’t mess up those long screws, but it’s possible we damaged that cable. More worried there’s an issue with the battery, given the heating up. Powered off for now, not sure what to try next!

Rosemary McNaughton - Contestar

@astromezzo I’d start by putting the old battery back in. If that fixes the issues, you probably got a defective battery. If not, something else may have been damaged during the repair—post the details in the Answers Forum and see if anyone there can help troubleshoot. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

We just did this. Worked well. The battery however was bone dead. So we thought we messed up when nothing happened after we put it back together!

jay laifman - Contestar

After successfully installing my new battery, my phone is amazing once again!

Gary Grinstead - Contestar

Worked well! The only thing what I can recommend is to use a non-magnetic screwdriver to place the small screws back in again. First place the screws with a tweezer and then put them tight with a non-magnetic screwdriver. Before I did that my magnetic screwdriver always attracted the screws out of position.

Walter KÖHLER - Contestar

For those who were able to replace battery in a 5s in 2019, I am happy for you. Did not work for me. Lost a screw, battery did not power up. Purchased kit to just experiment on an old iphone 5s. FYI the PH000 bit did not fit, had to use my old Koblt kit from Home Dept. I do support the right to replace the battery, but then again with everything being so small, one would need to have fairy hands to work on these devices.

DIYnoob - Contestar

Thank you so much for this amazing guide!

Hugo Molin Fresneda - Contestar

Quite nice to replace the battery, took me about 30 min and it’s working fine.

Did put the screws on a metallic plate with a magnet, and made marking numbers to put them back in the right place..

The old battery didn’t get out too easily, but without trouble.

Sam thanks for your pictures, best regards from France. You did make it real simple!

Al DUPONT - Contestar

There is NO NEED to remove the display. As far as I can see the risk is lower leaving the display connected.

Like many other people, the removal of the glue strips never works out. I’ve done three, all broke.

Bryce Nesbitt - Contestar

Took me only 4 hours with one adhesive strip breaking in the beginning

Markus R. - Contestar

I consistently was receiving the message, “Unable to activate touch ID on this iPhone.”

Pretty consistently I noticed that if I connected the group of cables in the upper-right corner before connecting the battery cable this error goes away.

David Brown - Contestar

I pretty consistently get the message, “unable to activate touch id on this iphone” if I connect the battery before connecting the group of cables in the upper right corner. It seems that if those are reattached while the battery is plugged in I see the touch ID error. Connecting the battery after connecting the upper-right corner group of cables has consistently helped. YMMV of course.

David Brown - Contestar

hello i am replacing my iphone 5s battery but i am stucked because the adhesive broke whiles pulling it out

before i started i made sure my battery was 0% but i am afraid that when i mistakenly puncture it with the spudger it might catch fire

please is the battery capable of catching fire when it has no power (0%)?

please can someone give me the honest answers before i continue

thank you

George Rockson - Contestar

Please, if you are 50+ like I am: Have a good loupe, bright light to see and enlarging glass, and good, I used #5-type, forceps for the very tiny screws. - The exchange took us an hour. Excellent descriptions found herein! Thank you!

Bernd Saegmueller - Contestar

Horrible. Taking apart and removing battery is easy. Installing new battery and re installing these tiny screws was extremely difficult. The screw drivers are way too magnetized for controlling the screws back into the holes. My display cables did not reattach firmly and kept popping off.

The connector on the new battery was not correct …

Wow, ifixit was really great in the past. I successfully completed many projects using your parts and guides.

This was a total fail.

John Szuhay - Contestar

Great tutorial, Great replacement set and amazing quality tools from iFixIt !

It tooks less than 10 minutes to bring back to life my favorite 5S

Thanks !

Sebastian Kotek - Contestar

Une fois la batterie changée et la première charge à 100% atteinte, j’ai constaté que 60% de l’écran présentait des barres verticales. J’ai rouvert le iPhone et constaté que le 60% des contacts du connecteur d’écrans étaient pliés.

je les ai redressés et refait le montage. Tout est dans l’ordre.

jpmoll - Contestar

Brilliant little guide, thanks. I bought the official iFixIt battery replacement kit (which hopefully goes to support guides like this) which included everything required to follow this guide.

Tom S - Contestar

Overall this wasn’t too bad of a repair; did have a couple of hiccups.

1st Hiccup - On Step 25 when I attempted removal of the adhesive strips the adhesive tore, and was inaccessible. I used some alcohol on a Q-Tip while prying the battery up, this took a bit and bent the battery some , however after perseverance it came out.

2nd Hiccup - On reassembly <See step 10> it took quite some time to to reinstall the Touch ID cable bracket.

This 5s is being donated to a good cause, Thank You for the repair guide and a great deal on the parts to do it!

James_P - Contestar

Hello i replaced my iphone 5s battery but when start my phone battery charge status 1% when i recharge battery its jump and stuck on 27% percent

After i shutdown my phone and on it Again battery comes on 1% again are there any solutions

Abdurrahman Najdi - Contestar

A piece of dental floss may be used to separate the battery from the rear case. A stronger alternative to dental floss is an unwound guitar string, such as a 0.009 E string from a 12-string set.

That was what killed my phone, unfortunately. I managed to snag one of the cables in the upper-right of the phone, one which I *thought* was connected to the battery, but was actually totally unrelated. Flossed it right through! Perhaps include a note about it in the guide?

Oh well… Was aware the phone might not survive this; 6 years is pretty %#*@ old.

Werner Kroneman - Contestar

Followed it. Done it. Started. Gave me an error that touch can not be setup and died. disappointing and I am clueless what went wrong.

sipankh - Contestar

Vielen Dank - bei mir hat alles super funktioniert und nun habe ich mein 5S gerettet dank der wunderbaren Bild und Schritt für Schritt Anleitung, ?

Robert Scherbach - Contestar

Thank-you very much. To you and to Ifixit.

hobby - Contestar

I've tried to replace the battery but like other people have pointed out, it goes into cycling once I try and turn it on (only turns on when plugged in). Once it turns on the apple logo appears and then a quick flash of a red screen and it goes black and the cycle starts over. Any suggestions on how to fix (other than repeating the guide)? Thanks

swimfast_3 - Contestar

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