Introducción

Replace a broken speaker in an iPhone 5c to restore speakerphone capabilities.

  1. If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPhone's display until the whole face is covered.

      • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from any glass shaken free during the repair.

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  2. Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.
    • Before you proceed, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

    • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

    • Remove the two 3.8 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on either side of the Lightning connector.

    to keep screws in order, buy some double sided tape and then affix the tape in small pieces to a sheet of paper. As you take the screws out, you can affix them to the tape (which is on the paper) and then write a description of what they are and where they go. quick, cheap and easy.

    V. Jones - Contestar

    • The next two steps demonstrate using the iSclack, a great tool for safely opening the iPhone 5c that we recommend for anyone doing more than one repair on an iPhone 5, 5s, or 5c. If you aren't using the iSclack, skip to Step 5.

    • Close the handle on the iSclack, opening the suction-cup jaws.

    • Place the bottom of your iPhone in between the suction cups, against the plastic depth gauge.

      • The top suction cup should rest just above the home button.

    • Open the handles to close the jaws of the iSclack. Center the suction cups and press them firmly onto the top and bottom of the iPhone.

    I just replaced my iPhone 5C battery today and only used the I fix it repair kit that came with the suction cup. Getting the glass screen out was not too difficult as I used a little bit of upward motion on the suction cup while at the same time prying gently with the flat end of the opening tool at the same time. If you have two people it makes it a little easier as someone can hold the phone. After getting the end open, I was able to go around the perimeter and gently pry up the edges with very little trouble.

    V. Jones - Contestar

    Experienced immediate problem: there is s strap going from the home button to the screen, about 1-1/2 inch long. After removing 3-4 screws I saw no way to disconnect it from either end. My daughter came to help get the screws back (my 70 years have problems with very tiny screws). Slid a piece back and the strap came free of the home button ares. Screen could only open then 75-80 degrees. Tapr tore. Pried battery out. Replaced on original sticky tape. Restarted fine and about to recycle the charge. Thanks for the kit and all. But 6 demos and 3 inatructions never mentioned this strip! So careful opening it up, please!!

    Michael W Mason - Contestar

    @mikamazn What you’re describing sounds like an iPhone 5s. This guide is for the 5c. Glad to hear things worked out for you.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Hold onto your iPhone securely and close the handle of the iSclack to separate the suction cups, pulling the front panel up from the rear case.

    • The iSclack is designed to safely open your iPhone just enough to separate the pieces, but not enough to damage any cables.

    • Peel the two suction cups off your iPhone.

    • Skip the next three steps and continue on to Step 8.

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    • Press a suction cup onto the screen, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the cup is completely on the screen to get a tight seal.

    very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.

    bromanmoon - Contestar

    • Make sure the suction cup is firmly attached to the front panel assembly.

    • While holding the iPhone down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    • Take your time and apply firm, constant force. The display assembly is a much tighter fit than most devices.

    • With a plastic opening tool, begin to gently pry the rear case down, away from the display assembly, while you pull up with the suction cup.

    • There are several clips attaching the front panel assembly to the rear case, so you may need to use a combination of the suction cup and plastic opening tool to free the front panel assembly.

    Cover a badly cracked screen with a strip of packing tape first to get a better seal for your suction cup. If it's a super crappy suction cup, moistening it a bit will help as well.

    Dan - Contestar

    Great Idea! I have been doing this for awhile and have never thought to share!

    duston -

    The pry point in this photo is spot on. Just be gentle and maybe come in at a little steeper angle.

    V. Jones - Contestar

    • Pull the plastic nub to release the vacuum seal on the suction cup.

    • Remove the suction cup from the display assembly.

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    • Lift the home button end of the front panel up to gain access to the connectors near the top of the phone.

    • Open the display to about a 90º angle, and lean it against something to keep it propped up while you're working on the phone.

      • In a pinch, you can use an unopened canned beverage to hold the display.

    • Add a rubber band to keep the display securely in place while you work. This prevents undue strain on the display cables.

    Using a can works really well!

    Amy Dachs - Contestar

  3. Reparte el espíritu de reparación esta Navidad
    Obtén $12 de descuento en tu compra de $50 o más con el código FIXMAS12
    Reparte el espíritu de reparación esta Navidad
    Obtén $12 de descuento en tu compra de $50 o más con el código FIXMAS12
    • Remove the two 1.6 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the metal battery connector bracket to the logic board.

    These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!

    Joe Shirghio - Contestar

    I found that you don't need to disconnect the battery... why bother doing more fiddling with annoyingly tiny screws and obstinate cable connectors when you don't actually have to? Especially when you could only end up causing more damage. As a matter of fact, the original iFixit video didn't bother to disconnect the battery either, but they've since updated the video to include battery disconnection, I guess as a "belt and braces" approach in case the repair-hero forgets to power down the phone first?

    Michael Allen - Contestar

    Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution, and yes it's worth doing. Even with the phone powered off, there is some danger of blowing the backlight filter fuse if you disconnect the display while the battery is connected. At that point you're no longer looking at a simple DIY repair. Even though it's possible to skip this step and still come out okay, my advice is not to risk it.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    • Remove the metal battery connector bracket from the iPhone.

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    • Use a spudger or a clean fingernail to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

    • Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector itself and not the socket on the logic board. If you pry up on the logic board socket or the board itself, you may destroy the socket or damage nearby components on the board.

    Why do we need to disconnect the battery?

    Maria Raesch - Contestar

    Sorry, I missed the comments on step 9 that detail the procedure.

    Maria Raesch - Contestar

    Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.

    Jona Wolff - Contestar

    Accidentally pulling out the logic board socket is no idle warning - exactly what I did without much effort. I think this shouldn’t be described as ‘prying’ up because it implies needing to use force - but these things actually pop off quite easily with a nudge, which you discover at later steps.

    Peter Hill - Contestar

    • Remove the following Phillips #000 screws securing the front panel assembly cable bracket to the logic board:

      • Two 1.3 mm screws

      • One 1.7 mm screw

      • One 3.25 mm screw

    • It is especially important to keep track of your screws in this step for reassembly. Accidentally using the 3.25 mm screw or the 1.7 mm screw in the bottom right hole will result in significant damage to the logic board causing the phone to no longer boot properly.

    • Be careful not to over-tighten the screws. If they don't fit easily when you are securing them, they may be the wrong size—don't force them.

    In step 9: I think you are talking about the 3,25 and 1,7mm one not the 1,3 and the 1,7mm?

    Siegbert Waldner - Contestar

    DO NOT Remove the battery, there is no need to and can cause unnecessary damage! There's a tutorial on YouTube that does it without!

    Alister Malcolm - Contestar

    I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.

    jacobstevens - Contestar

    I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.

    Fredrick Apel - Contestar

    I always take a picture of the phone, print it out, then use scotch tape to tape the screws onto the picture in the location where they go. You don't lose the screws and you always know where they go for re-assembly

    K Jansen - Contestar

    good tip! but instead of taking & printing a picture of your own phone, you probably could just print the color coded pic from this step (assuming everything on your phone is exactly the same).

    travismlive -

    When reassembling, the screw holder that the screws screw into came off the board. Is there a way to superglue that back in?

    Chandler Perez - Contestar

    no, do not use super-glue. Quite some of these ‘screw-holders’ are screws themselves with e hollow tread in the head (didn’t find the correct naming for it) - just like the things you screw into a PC case and fasten the mainboard on.

    akronymus -

    did NOT remove the front entirely. its not necessary to do this to remove the battery. these are only precautionary steps in case your clumsy or you feel you might not be able to manage it without. as always, be cautious.

    matt - Contestar

    *warning* … this connector assembly is very messy to re-build. Next time I change such a battery, I’ll try to get it out carefully *without* detaching the display unit. My resumée: *never* unscrew more things than necessary. These things are not M five (5 mm bolt diameter) like on a bike, these are M zero-point-five. Even for a smirf, this is tiny stuff.

    akronymus - Contestar

    • Remove the front panel assembly cable bracket from the logic board.

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    • Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the front-facing camera and sensor cable connector.

    • Be sure to only pry up on the connector, and not on the socket on the logic board.

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    • Make sure the battery is disconnected before you disconnect or reconnect the cables in this step.

    • Use a plastic opening tool or a fingernail to disconnect the LCD cable connector.

      • The LCD and Digitizer connectors are on the same cable assembly, so prying the LCD connector up should disconnect both connectors. Double check that the two cables are fully disconnected before removing the display.

    • When reassembling your phone, the LCD cable may pop off its connector. A blank screen, or white lines on the display could be caused by a loose connection. Should this happen, reconnect the cable and power cycle your phone. The best way to power cycle your phone is to disconnect and reconnect the battery.

    I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!

    Harold Wallner - Contestar

    This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.

    vince -

    Apple uses numerical revisions (-02) for pre-production parts, and alpha revisions (-A) for production revisions. It looks like you got a preproduction assembly, or a knock-off.

    terrymccallum -

    There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.

    Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:

    Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.

    Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.

    Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.

    Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.

    Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?

    piet - Contestar

    Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...

    duston -

    When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.

    The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.

    jimbbo - Contestar

    If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.

    iBroke -

    • Remove the front panel assembly from the rear case.

    Very clear and percise.

    Jessica Fader - Contestar

    • Use a plastic opening tool to peel the home button spring contact cable up from the speaker enclosure.

    Bei mir ist das Federkontaktkabel des Home Buttons defekt. Welches Ersatzteil ist dies und wie tausche ich es aus?

    Skyynet - Contestar

    • Remove the following screws securing the speaker enclosure to the rear case:

      • Two 2.7 mm Phillips #000 screws

      • One 2.2 mm Phillips #000 screw

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the speaker enclosure up from the rear case.

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    • Remove the speaker enclosure. Be careful not to snag it on the antenna cable.

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    • The far right screw hole on the speaker has a contact bracket wrapped around it. Remove it and note the orientation for reassembly.

      • The flat portion of the contact clip should rest against the speaker, as shown.

    • The alignment bracket on the far end of the speaker assembly is adhered, but may fall off if handled aggressively.

      • The angled end should face up and line up with the outside edge of the speaker.

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    • Your replacement speaker may be missing the contact-bearing sticker shown here; be sure to transfer it to the new part.

    • Use a plastic opening tool to lift the sticker from the speaker.

    • Peel up and remove the sticker.

    where do I find the contact-bearing sticker? I accidentally ripped mine off and the speaker no longer works

    sk8erjuan - Contestar

    I followed this, speaker works fine now - but mic no longer works during calls

    mattdoonan - Contestar

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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Speaker doesn't work even after replacing using this guide, any idea what can be wrong? many thanks

Amir - Contestar

Same here. Speaker went out. Replaced it with a new one from an Amazon seller, and still nothing. It's like I didn't do anything.

Rest of the phone works perfectly.

wlnorris - Contestar

I just did this replacement today and had the same problem as the other posts. However what I figured out was that the speaker is powered through contact on the back side. I applied some pressure to that area (this is mostly likely bad for the screen, so try at your own risk) to the speaker area and surprise it worked. A hacky fix was to put a piece of folded up paper on top of the speaker to create the contact. I do not recommend this fix, but it help solidify the actual cause.

Hope this helps

ayechonk - Contestar

ayechonk merci pour le tips, c'est bien un faux contact, en appuyant un peu j'ai le son, je vais testé le coup de la cale.

Hadou - Contestar

Does anyone know what's the actual voltage needed by the loudspeaker to work? I've tested it out the continuity of the loudspeakers (both the original on the replacing part) and they seem to work just fine, otherwise the output voltage from the motherboard on the contact while playing some music, swings quickly from 0 to 1mV.

Rocco Lorusso - Contestar

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