iPhone 4S Cellular Antenna Replacement

my screws are stipped and i am going though the front glass to get to the logic board could some one give me a guide on how to get to the board please... thanks

all you need to do is remove the clip over the wifi antenna and the one that actually attaches the wifi antenna to the iphone two steps to do this job...

I didn’t find this particularly difficult, even though I’m pretty inexperienced at this sort of work. I watched the video overview to get me going and then followed the steps in the guide. My tips would be to keep the screws and parts organised as you dismantle, and ensure you read all the reassembly tips as you go; it’s easy to skip over them. I also found using the Liberty Kit to replace the pentalobe screws was worthwhile.

Poor old Marv of Feb 2015. Suggest he sticks to chopping logs.

If you are careful, use a Dremel tool and a micro drill bit (sold where Dremel tools are purchased) to drill it out. Last resort kind of thing, good luck.

Why isn't it moving? I removed my screws.

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

I didn't see any extra screws holding the back in place. I had to use the included pry tool to get the back off. Just start at the bottom and pry gently...if you just "pull" like the guide says it won't work.

Don't use too much force to slide the back -- the back on my phone was hard to slide, and I bent and broke a silver metal contact tab at the top of the back (on the inside).

Super easy fix. Thanks for the tutorial!

Those little screwdrivers are easy to mix up, for those of us without ultra-perfect vision! Once I used the correct screwdriver, and my 13yo son's little fingers and perfect eyes, it went smoothly! Also my son noticed that the rubber piece around the camera len was covering the camera; it likely slid out of place when sliding off the back cover. A little playing around (with plastic tools only!) and it looks perfect now!

sorry but the rear panel is not pushed up. I pulled out the screws in the step 1 but still the rear panel does not move with even when I push it strongly.

On reassembly, be sure to clean the metal plate at the place of contact with the tiny pressure contact mentioned in step 4.

I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

The replacement panel I got had two sheets of protective plastic on the inside and one on the outside. I used a toothpick to carefully lift and peel the two inside sheets off. One small one was over the lens on the inside. The other was over some large brown sheet of unknown function (though I think it goes over the battery). When I peel that away, some of the brown material tried to lift of with it, so be very careful.

From this point go to step ?? Just peel off the tape from the chip. Take some aluminium foil and cut a hole the size of the chip (Use a second layer of foil if you don't thrust it). Heat the chip as described at temperature 300 deg C for 5 minutes. Let it cool down. Reassemble and ..... hura WIFI is on again.

I also had a small black and gold connector held down by the top screw on this step.

While the text refers to the pressure contact, the pictures do not show it clearly. The closet one that does has the yellow circle covering much of it. I was not sure if it was under or on top of the cover when re-installing. It's under.

The battery connector is attached to the battery. You're not going to completely lift it out and remove it. It pulls out from the socket you can see in step 5 picture 3. The pressure contact (little black and gold thing) will probably just slide out from under the connector. Not a problem.

Which screwdriver works best then. I got the #00 philips from ifixit. I agree - it strips the screw and does not work. I don't recommend it.

I am now trying to buy another screwdriver - but which one. #0 or #000. Anyone done this. Please help!

I lost the screws securing the battery connector to the logic board, what happens when I turn on my iphone without securing screws, as shown in step 4, please solution. thank you

I completed this successfully, but this step gave me the most trouble. The pressure contact is really difficult to reseat. So much so that it should probably be called out more clearly in it's own step.

When reinstalling the position of pressure contact must be explained better! It took me about 5 min to understand how it fit!

In french: attention avant de retirer le contacteur de la batterie. La vis du haut tient "en sandwich" une petite pièce métallique noire et dorée. Cette pièce a pour but de faire contact de masse avec le dos de l'iphone quand il est refermé. Donc il ne faut pas la tordre. Quand les deux vis du contacteur sont retirée, attention au moment de débrancher le contacteur: cela va faire bouger cette pièce qui ne doit pas être abîmée ni tordue. Au remontage, il faut bien la remettre en place sous le contacteur de batterie: il est tout à fait possible de mettre d'abord le contacteur, puis de glisser la petite pièce au dessous pour qu'elle soit bien à sa place, le trou en face du trou de vis et du trou du contacteur. En remettant la vis, la pièce tient bien en place. Elle doit bien continuer à dépasser de manière a faire contact avec le dos de l'iphone.

When reassembling, use EST tweezers to get align the pressure contact over the top screw hole. using the pointy end of a spudger to assist: put the point through top screw-hole on the battery connector, then through the pressure contact and into the screw-hole. this will help to keep the small piece in place while re-seating the battery connector. Leave the top hole spiked as such until the screw in the bottom hole is gently fastened. Remove the spudger and replace the top screw.

Pressure contact needs to be remain EXACTLY in the same position if you remove/replace battery. I had to re-open my iPhone 4S after a battery replacement (the mobile connectivity was lost) and tweak the position of the Pressure to restore functionality.

Why do I have to remove the battery for disassembling the rear camera? Any idea?

Hi, I have a problem with that small piece which connect gsm antenna with the back cover. I missed that part and have a weak signal gsm, so I buy it and now when I put it there the Iphone wont turn on when the back cover is puted on. I know that somewhere is short-circuit but dont know how to solve it. Sorry for my english.

I used my 16x magnifier loupe to be certain I had the pressure sensor aligned with the screw hole - no problem, no stripping. I consider it indispensable for tricky steps like this, and IFixit sells a similar tool for just $14.

The pressure connector is the battery connector under the silver plate. BE CAREFUL. It seems like it'd be really easy to tear that pressure connector out without meaning to. The bronze and black thing is the ground, *not* the pressure connector. If you remove it just keep track of it and re-install it.

this help me a lot, i just don't know how to fix it(bought it from http://www.laimarket.com/red-replacement...)

The phillips head screwdriver provided in the ifixit repair kit does not work well this these two screws after my first attempt at unscrewing the screws became stripped. The 1.7 mm phillips screw gave me the most trouble. It took an hour to unscrew after the screwdriver from the kit stripped the screw. I used a piece of masking tape over the screw for grip to loosen it, then used finger nail clippers as pliers to unscrew. I would recommend investing in a better screwdriver for this one step. Assembly is otherwise simple and easy.

Here's a tip if you're having trouble removing the 1.7 mm screw. I had real problems removing it – the 1.5 mm screw came out easily using a Phillips #000 screwdriver but I almost stripped the 1.7 mm screw using the same screwdriver. What I did instead was use a flathead screwdriver from the iFixit pro tech toolkit I got, the one with a "–" sign and 1.0 size. That worked perfectly!

There's only one Philips screwdriver with the kit but it failed to unscrew the top 1.7mm one off the connector unfortunately. Is the kit supposed to come with both the 1.7 and 1.5mm Philips screwdrivers?

When disconnecting the battery make sure to use a plastic tool not a metal tool that could short out the battery

I did not manage to get the screws out with a Phillips #000 Screwdriver; I used instead the J1000 head of the all-new pro tech toolkit

I would agree that a decent magnifier would help as the screws and components are small.

Also take necessary precautions to ensure the screws are not lost or mixed up.

Other than being a bit fiddly (particularly the earth connector), the only challenge I had not covered was that the battery was fixed with glue close to where the connector is and despite releasing the battery along the side, I couldn't get the battery to lift out using the tab. In the end I had to use the plastic tools to gently lever the battery away, working from the outside edge and ensuring I wasn't levering against the volume control buttons.

The new battery is in and following the advise given, I hard reset the phone and all my usual functions are now running... and if this £18:00 fix gives the phone another year or two of use, it will be well worth the effort.

When i replaced my battery then my i phone4s suddenly diseabled to 4million hours or sonething big like that....So at the end i had to go for a flash..when it was updating in the middle there has been a error so my logo comes CONNECT TO ITUNES...so what can i do guzs????

Vous dites "Le connecteur de batterie s'enlève verticalement de la carte mère. Ne forcez pas latéralement"

Ou placez vous la verticalité ? pour moi c'est connecteur d'alimentation en bas, bouton d'alimentation en haut ?

Parce ce que sur la photo suivante, vous enlevez le connecteur de la gauche vers la droite ... c'est à dire latéralement ...

Soit nous n'avons pas le même sens vertical / horizontal, soit il y a un GROS problème dans l'explication, ou dans la traduction.

En tout cas, à la lecture de votre explication, j'ai essayé d'enlever le connecteur vers le haut !!

Donc il m'est maintenant impossible de remettre la batterie neuve, le connecteur est cassé !!!

Bravo pour l'expertise ifixit :(

I've gone through this process twice now. I found this video also very helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYYdbk3U...

The little contact thing that sits under top screw is always the biggest hassle to fit back into place (I do it after attaching the battery cable) with tweezers from ifixit.

My personal tips:

- plan that the incredibly tiny screws or the top-screw contact thing, might get away from you. so work in a space where you can find them easily. Not over carpet, etc.

- I use strips of tape on a piece of paper to secure the screws while they are out, and position them so I know which one goes on top of battery connector, and the one on bottom.

- If you have access to a spouse's/mate's iphone, in Accessibility settings there's a Magnifier option (triple-click home button) which does an amazing job at magnifying stuff at a circa 4-6" distance. Lacking any good magnifying glasses, this feature helped a lot. https://www.imore.com/how-use-magnifier-...

Why the guide don't mention PH000 or PH00 instead of Phillip 1.7 mm / 1.5 mm? I didn't know it is PH000 until some comments here save my time. Thanks guys

We have edited this step and expanded upon it. Hopefully that will mitigate the confusion surrounding it. Sorry about all the trouble it has caused!

This picture needs to be greatly enlarged! The pressure plate sits directly underneath the battery connector, but cannot be seen here. It is also flat but about half the size of the battery connector, so you won't know you've ripped it up until you have! Picture two slices of bread but not the same size, stuck together.

What if you pop off that pressure contact point?? What is its function? Is it impossible to re-attach?

I also accidentally removed the pressure contact. I put it back in place as best I could during reassembly and so far haven't ran into any problems.

The black & copper contact piece is missing from my iPhone. Does that explain why my phone won't restore and keeps re-booting? I have tried every kind of restore with no luck. Any ideas?

Very good tutorial,

http://ordi47.com

http://www.youtube.com/user/Ordi47300

The black ground contact needs still more "flagging." This is a simple metal strip that is attached ONLY by the 1.5mm (upper) screw. It will help if you look at it before you remove the upper screw. Notice the gold contact arm and point. That contact point must be in a plane above every other surface inside the device when you replace the battery connector, because it makes a ground contact with the metallic inner surface of the device back plate.

When I replaced it, I used the Pentalobe driver to line up battery connector and ground contact with the screw socket post. I then attached the 1.7mm (lower) screw loosely, removed the Pentalobe driver gently, and inserted the 1.5mm (upper) screw into the assembly. There is a tab on the ground contact that helps it align properly once pressure begins to applied. I completed driving the upper screw, pressing lightly with the spudger on the battery connector plate to make sure it was seated on the pressure contacts. Finally, I completed driving the lower screw.

This is a hard step because the directions and pictures are not very clear. This might help:

1) Here you HAVE TO disconnect the battery connecter (the language is confusing).

2) This is easier than it looks, as you can simply lift the connector upwards from any angle (I rested my plastic tool on the antenna and gently lifted it up).

The photo suggests you have to pull the connector backwards (which would be hard), this is not true, it can be lifted up towards you (the pins go out backwards and upwards, you'll see).

Finally, don't confuse the "pressure contact" with the "pressure contact point". You remove the contact, the contact point (underneath) sits on the board. No need to worry about this.

Very ambiguous instructions for amateurs like me. eg. "pressure contact" & "pressure contact point". Some labelling in the photos would be a great help.

Wish the instructions had the warnings about the pressure contact before getting started. I removed it from the logic board because the warning was after the instructions. I managed to get it back in place and reassemble the phone. Nothing happened when I turned it on. Here I wrongly assumed the battery came pre-charged but it wasn't. I decided to plug it in to recharge it and was elated to see the empty battery symbol. I'm sending this from the phone!

I didn't find any need to remove the pressure contact. I just pried the battery connector up (gently) with a spudger and left the pressure contact in place. Connected the new battery and aligned the pressure contact screw hole. Replaced the screws, finished reassembly and all was good.

After reassembly, the CELL CONNECTION WASN'T WORKING. You might need to slightly bend the contact in step 5 up just a little, so it will make contact with the metal back plate. Did that and it worked perfectly.

Great kit, great instructions, thanks!

all those teeny screws...and the world is so...well...BIG!

go slow and put those parts INTO something...

putting them "on" something will just cause heartache and and an infected bladder...

°¿°

after a lot of froofroo and very errant iphone behaviour problems, i concluded that that tiny grounding piece must be being lazy as hello. i spread it out a bit to ensure a better contact with the back plate and everything appears to be working smoothly.

did this repair, as well as the battery replacement...GTG!!!

spoke too soon, i 'spect...random reboots persist.

Just went through the replacement and the battery "plug" (step 5) on my replacement battery was slightly misaligned relative to the metal plate used to screw it onto the board. The plastic and "gold" "plug" was slightly askew on the metal plate, which meant that when the plug was inserted, the screw holes (step 4) were poorly aligned.

I managed to pull everything back into line using the screws, but the QC on these replacement batteries is a bit suspect.

Guess what happens when you rotate that ground connector 180 degrees...it grounds what I deduced to be the heat sink of the power amplifier for the speaker! So it is silent. It took me a couple of attempts to discover this as I was distracted by the new speaker not sitting down properly and a little dot of stuff under the main connector stuck to the pins. The latter was cleaned-off with a pin under 5x magnification followed by some isopropyl alcohol.

I suggest that Step 5 is more explicit about the orientation of this ground connector. It's only obvious after a really close look and if one has a lot to do like I did, it's a long time before one comes back to this step so the correct orientation is not obvious.

If you magnify picture 4 or picture 5 twice, you can view the ground clip under the blue tool. You need to reinstall the ground clip with the copper color prong facing "up." I believe the ground clip is what many are calling the "pressure contact point" because the copper prong of the ground clip does indeed have pressure asserted to it when it contacts the back cover of the iPhone 4s.

I accidentally removed the pressure contact and I was not able to put it back in place and so far haven't ran into any problems. Is this safe??

I did it als well. All Funktionen well.but i am Not sure if that reduce battery power? Thanks very much for information

The hole in the pressure contact aligns with the top screw. The IFIXIT tool kit I bought contained a black sharp “thing” that I used to align the pressure contact with the top screw hole. I used this tool to align the bottom screw hole also. I put the bottom screw in first but did not tighten it all the way. A good magnifying glass with a light helped a lot. Tim

Aligning with the black pointy “thing” definitely helps. Also, the small copper end of the contact piece is supposed to stick up once attached, to make contact with the back plate of the phone after re-assembly. The piece slides under the silver metal plate, and the the pointer can be used to align the silver plate hole and the black/copper plate hole in place for the screw.

We have edited this step and expanded upon it. Hopefully that will mitigate the confusion surrounding it. Sorry about all the trouble it has caused!

This can be very tricky because sometimes theres just too many glue on the back of the battery, and eventually the battery will be deformed.

Yes, there did seem to be a lot of glue holding my battery in. At first I was afraid of breaking it, but after reading up on the subject I've learned that it is okay if the battery gets a little deformed. Due to the nature of the battery it will still work if slightly deformed.

I found the plastic pull tab to be useless. Peeled pretty much the whole battery out from the left side. Used a probe to "break" a few strands of glue to help. Just watch the connector and ribbon cable in the lower left corner as you pry up so you don't crimp them or damage them.

Try a used plastic credit/gift card to apply gentle pressure to lift the battery out of the phone, the short edge of the card fits within the gap on the logic board side between the battery and video cables. You can also use it on the opposite side if there is room between the battery and iPhone frame. This has worked on all of the 4 and 4s models I've replaced screens on.

I offer an alternative image if interested.

Hello! My clients iphone 4s:n battery connector broke, when i tried accidentally take the battery out with a plastic tool from the wrong side.

Connector detached completely, so that the two middle ironcensors came with it and was stuck to the connector. When i screw the whole connector back to phone, it works with battery power, but the batterys downloading doesnt work. Are these two middle censors that are stuck in the connector exactly the ones that should be charging the battery? Do you know how i can fix this? I have already bought electrical conductor glue, but should the parts be cleaned somehow first? And how can i fix it, when the center metal sensors on the system board is also attached to the battery?

How can i clean out thiskind of part with windex? I have purchased almost all of the possible tools from iFixit and the electrical conductor glue i bought somewhere else. (http://www.ebay.com/itm/300915727408?ssP...)

Removing the battery wasn't necessary. I attempted the removal but decided not to in the end. It didn't get in the way at all.

I did not remove the battery to do a Speaker replacement and had no issues with getting the Speaker out/in. So, steps 4 and 5 are required but not step 6.

The plastic tab is not attached to the battery. I just pried from the right and slid tools under until I broke all the adhesive.

I found it easier to start by pulling the plastic lip to loosen the battery, then, if needed, use the plastic tool to pry from the side.

I tried to get the battery out as depicted in the first picture. It deformed and is now broken. Not happy. It seems better to leave it or get it out by gently pulling the tab.

Please, Please, PLEASE avoid using probing elements to try remove batteries. I have had dozens handed in to me with punctures and two that actually started smoking due to people trying to prise the battery out. DO NOT DO IT.

The best way I have found to remove the battery is this process;

1) Try remove it with the pull tab directly, some will come out, some will not. Do NOT use excessive pull force else it'll deform the battery and reduce the capacity.

2) If the pull test didn't work, then get a hot air gun on medium and warm up the area around the battery for about 30 seconds, focusing on the perimeter of the battery. If you see ANY popcorn'ing then you're too hot, you don't want to cook the battery.

2.1) Wait about 30 seconds for the heat to now wick underneath the battery to soften the adhesive.

2.2) Now try pull the battery up, the extra heat should have softened the glue that you can remove the battery without excessive force and without sticking objects under the battery.

Be VERY careful NOT to pull off the part of the connector that is on the logic board! Mine now has only contact but no solder until I can get a small enough soldering iron and a less shaky pair of hands!

I bent the wire of the silent button on right top of the battery. Now the silent botton don't work. The wire on the bent is half-cut. BE CAREFUL when you put the new battery inside!

Was having a hard time getting the screws back into the battery connector. Read another tip online that helped - pushed the end of my phillips screwdriver into some soft candle wax which gave it just enough stickyness to have the screw stay attached to the screwdriver while I was moving it toward the hole. Thought I'd pass that along.

I did as wazzamagu did (and stated above), "My Pentalobe tool was slightly magnetized so I used that to bring the screws in for tightening with the Philips screwdriver." That made replacing the screws fairly easy. Thanks for all the advice on this page. It was not hard at all. Go slow and carefully, everything is smaller in there than I expected. The "searching" thing came up as it seems for most people, but just took a reboot and all is fine.

Instructions were good and everything works fine after replacement. Needed to use a tweezer on the pressure contact on the top screw of the battery. Thanks

I swapped out the battery today. No real issues. Pretty easy task.

For the past couple of months, my phone had been dying very fast. I knew that my phone's battery capacity was getting quite low as this phone is older now, and is out of warranty. So I ordered a replacement battery about a week ago, and just installed it yesterday. The install was pretty easy, if you pay attention to where everything belongs. But my draining issue has not gone away. It stays charged a bit longer, my capacity is at almost 100%, yet it can't even hold a charge over night. I'm not sure what is causing this and would love any tips or stories from someone else!! Please help!!

Beim Einbauen des neuen Akkus ist es sinnvoll diesen zuerst anzuschließen und dann erst wieder in die richtige Position zu bringen da man so dass Anschlusskabel besser verlegen kann

OMG thank you iFIXIT, the apple store wanted 3 times the cost of this repair kit. It took less than 5 minutes with most of the time spent trying to prise out the battery as it was glued in nice and tight but steady pressure from the spudger did the trick.

I think the best advice would be to touch nothing with your fingers as with careful use of the spudger I was able to position the tensioner point no problem. Everything else was nice 'n' easy.

Finally there was no cell connection only Wifi when I powered up so I simply powered down and up again and all is well in the world!

Thanks again.

Be VERY careful not to pull on the plastic tab before you fully detach the adhesive or else you will rip the tab clean off. If you did this it is still possible to remove the battery. I just used the guitar pick tool things to slowly work it through the adhesive and under the battery

It is possible to remove and replace the upper antenna WITHOUT removing the logic board!! So skip from step 7 to step 21 to 26 and 27.

Stuck on searching after unplugging and plugging in the battery?

This is due to the date and time being set back to default. To fix this you will need to synchronize the date and time back to what it is currently.

You can do this by either:

- Connecting the phone to either a Wi-Fi network, Cellular Network (Mobile Data).

- Connecting the phone to iTunes (It will synchronize the time automatically once iTunes is opened and can detect and access the iPhone).

Once the date and time is synced you will need to turn airplane mode off and one as it may display 'Searching... 3G' or if it still says searching (which most of the time happens if the sim card has a sim pin lock enabled on it) you will then need to turn the phone off and on.

Watched the video and ordered the kit, followed all the steps and it all went brilliantly - thank you all so much.

Is it suggested that I add more adhesive with the replacement battery?

One thing I noted with the replacement battery - from AussieBattery here in Australia; not from iFixit - but the same problem might occur; is that the cable on the new battery had to be 'tamed' (bent here & there like on the old battery, before I could reseat the screws and even the battery itself. One again the black - pointy & flat ended - spudgers, that we use in desktop iMacs, were helpful in getting under that battery and releasing it from sticky-!&&*! I used a pair of '2.5' reading glasses for this job, but '3.0' might have been better, as those screws are INFINITESIMALLY small!!!!! :(

Thank you IFIXIT! The battery replacement went very well for me. I was exceedingly careful with the minuscule fasteners. Reading through the instructions, watching the video and reading these comments before jumping in helped. I found the parts and tools to be of good quality. I feel like I beat the system! I used a pair of diopter 3 reading glasses which was a real aid. I hope my comment encourages others...

My rare earth magnets came in handy when I managed to lose the little grounding connecter screws. Those little guys will go flying if, while trying to align them for reassembly, pressure gets applied in just the wrong way. I say one fly out and bounce off my shirt, then it was gone, on the floor I presume. I grabbed my stack of 8 little magnets, waved it around on the floor under where I was sitting and what do you know? A little screw was stuck to it! I never would've found it just by looking...

You really need to include information about the pressure sensor. It WILL inevitably pop out, leaving us wondering how and in what order it should be replaced. I had to look elsewhere for videos outside of iFixit to figure this out. Also, tell us which screwdriver to use using the label on the bit (PH000, P2, Y000, etc.). Providing only the sizes of the screws does nothing to help determine the appropriate bit to use when they aren’t labeled as such. Otherwise thank you!

I replaced the battery and the phone started right up. But I cannot get it to charge It was half charged when it went in new and I plugged it into a charger Checked it later - not charged. So tried another charger and the green charging light still will not come on . Any suggestions? Thanks Don

the ifixit #000 screwdriver is too big for the 1.5 mm Phillips screw &

1.2 mm Phillips screw!!!!!!

When reassembling, peel adhesive strips off dock connector cable, but do not stick them down. First plug the cable into it's socket, then stick down the cable. It will make locating the plug in the socket easier.

The metal piece with white and black areas stuck to the adhesive and pulled off the board for me. There are some chips under it. It popped back on the board and didn't seem to be a problem.

Note, the pictures do not show the routing of the cable under the metal finger next to where the battery was. Make sure the cable is replaced under the finger when reassembling.

The trickiest part for me was reconnecting the antenna cable to the socket. Do it carefully!

A tip is to mold the cable and connector so that it stays correctly aligned with the socket, and all you have to worry about is pressing the connector against the socket.

Bump on the comment re: no picture here shows the proper cable route. The text mentions being careful to route it under the metal finger, but no way to know where that it is from these pictures. The re-route is: around the left side of the screw socket and then the right side of the silver thing (finger) which is to the right of the battery connector.

In this picture (actually in all of them) the cellular antenna cable is not routed properly (red line). Be sure when reassembling your iPhone 4s to route the cable around the metal finger (yellow line).

<img src="http://i53.photobucket.com/albums/g80/dr... target_blank">

The spring contacts on the speaker bottom make re-installing a bit tricky, since they make the speaker pop up until the screws are back in. If this happens, one or more of the fingers that are supposed to be under the case will pop out. What I found worked was to put the speaker in, getting the metal fingers under the case as directed, and then hold the speaker down with while putting the two screws in, along with that triangle piece.

I was holding the plastic triangle spacer in a pair of tweezers, and it shot out like a watermelon seed ya squeeze between your fingers!

It shot (I think) into a high-clutter area of the room and I can't find it. I made a replacement spacer out of plastic and I'll hope it works. Where am I going to buy a stupid little replacement spacer? I think I'm outta luck..

Im reassembling the phone and as I was going to place the speaker back on, two rubber pieces popped out. Based on the images here I cant seem to determine where they go. Please help.

Please order Speaker Assembly w/Antenna. I found Antenna is not replaceable. Antenna length is different between iPhone 4 and 4S.

I wish that I'd known that removal of the antenna without damaging it is an almost impossible task. I managed to succeed but in future, a clear recommendation to buy an new antenna with the speaker is suggested.

I started with the larger part of the new antenna and had the peel and stick it a couple of times to get the smaller part to fold over, and then that part didn't quite line up with the holes for the screws. If I was to do it again, I'd start with the smaller side, screw it down without removing the backing and the fold it over the edge to make the crease. At the same time, also eyeball where that larger section fell. The original one did not land in the slight cutout on the speaker exactly, but the replacement antenna and speaker pair did line up. Then pull it apart and do it again but removing the paper backing.

hi, done installing the new cellular antenna,i restore the phone with the latest firmware 7.0.4

i still get the no service signal show up, sometimes the carrier name come up, 1 minute after it gone, when it come i still got data plan on my sim, but never able to get the 3G

As I was peeling off the adhesive strip holding the antenna, a tiny,black, rubbery rectangle fell onto my work mat. After reassembling the antenna to the speaker enclosure, I began studying the images to see from where this tiny rectangle might have come. The enlarged, lower image shows what appears to be this rectangle attached to the outside edge of the speaker enclosure, near where it curves around to the metal tab on the right-hand end of the enclosure. There is no adhesive on the rectangle, but it seems to be intended to serve as some kind of spacer or bumper between the speaker enclosure and the iPhone's case. I hope so, because that's where I put it after reinstalling the enclosure. There should be a caution in the instructions for this step, either against dislodging this little "bumper" while detaching the adhesive strip, or indicating how it should be located during reinstallation of the enclosure.