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La caja posterior de tu iPhone 4 puede fijarse bien con dos tornillos Phillips #000 o bien con tornillos Apple de 5-Puntos (segunda imagen). Comprueba cuáles tienes y asegúrate de que tienes el destornillador adecuado para retirarlos.
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Retira los dos tornillos Pentalobe o Phillips #000 de 3.6 mm que están junto al conector para el cargador.
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Remueve el único tornillo de 2.5 mm Phillips que asegura el conector de la batería a la tarjeta lógica.
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Usa la pestaña de plástico clara para levantar gentilmente la batería fuera del iPhone.
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Si hay solución de alcohol restante en el teléfono, límpialo cuidadosamente o permite que se seque antes de instalar la batería nueva.
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Antes de reconectar el conector de la batería, asegúrate que el clip de contacto (mostrado en rojo) este propiamente posicionado a lado del conector de la batería.
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Use a SIM card eject tool or a paperclip to eject the SIM card and its holder.
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Remove the SIM card and its holder.
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Remove the following two screws:
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One 1.2 mm Phillips
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One 1.6 mm Phillips
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Remove the thin steel dock connector cable cover from the iPhone.
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Use an iPod opening tool to gently pry the dock cable connector up off the logic board from both short ends of the connector.
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Carefully peel the dock ribbon cable off the logic board and the lower speaker enclosure.
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Use a plastic opening tool to pry the lower antenna connector up off its socket on the logic board.
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Remove the 1.9 mm Phillips screw securing the bottom of the logic board to the inner case.
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Remove the following five screws securing the Wi-Fi antenna to the logic board:
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One 2.3 mm Phillips
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Two 1.6 mm Phillips
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One 1.4 mm Phillips
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One 4.8 mm Phillips
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Utilice una herramienta de apertura de iPod para desprender con cuidado la tapa de la antena Wi-Fi de la tarjeta lógica.
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Insertar traducción aquí
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Remueva la antena Wi-Fi del iPhone. Procure no extraviar los clips de metal de la tapa superior donde ajustan los tornillos de 4.8 mm. Esta es la causa por la que regularmente hay fallos en la señal inalámbrica cuando se reensambla.
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Use the edge of a plastic opening tool to gently pry the following connectors up and out of their sockets on the logic board:
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Digitizer cable (pry from bottom)
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LCD cable (pry from bottom)
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Headphone jack/volume button cable (pry from top)
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Top Microphone/sleep button cable (pry from top)
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Front camera cable (pry from top)
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Herramienta utilizada en este paso:Standoff Screwdriver for iPhones$5.49-
Remove the 4.8 mm standoff screw near the headphone jack.
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Without this part, the motherboard could damage the ribbon cables around it.
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Carefully remove the logic board from the iPhone, minding any cables that may get caught.
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Remove the single 2.4 mm Phillips screw securing the speaker enclosure to the side of the inner frame.
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Remove the following two screws securing the vibrator to the inner frame:
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One 6 mm Phillips
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One 1.4 mm Phillips
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Remove the vibrator from the iPhone.
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Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw securing the front panel near the headphone jack.
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Remove the three large-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screws along the volume button side of the iPhone.
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Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw near the lower microphone.
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Remove the 1.5 mm Phillips screw near the dock connector ribbon cable.
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Remove the three large-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screws along the SIM card side of the iPhone.
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Remove the small-headed 1.5 mm Phillips screw near the rear camera (previously removed).
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Carefully insert the edge of an iPod opening tool between the rubber bezel around the front glass panel and the steel inner frame.
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Carefully pry the upper edge of the front panel assembly away from the steel inner frame.
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Slowly and gently lift the top edge of the front panel assembly away from the steel inner frame.
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Continue to rotate the front panel assembly away from the steel inner frame until it slowly begins to peel off the adhesive applied below the home button area.
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It may be easiest to insert a spudger at the top and work it around the edges, spreading gently as you go.
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Carefully pull the lower edge of the front panel assembly away from the steel inner frame.
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De-route the digitizer and LCD cables through the steel inner frame, and remove the display from the iPhone.
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When the front panel has been correctly installed, both the LCD and digitizer cables should be immediately next to one another and should be the same length, as shown in the second photo.
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During reassembly, do not touch the metallic area at the base of the LCD data cable, as this can cause problems with the LCD. If you do touch it accidentally, clean it gently with an alcohol wipe before continuing.
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To replace broken glass you must purchase the glass/digitizer/lCD/frame together because the glass is sealed to the LCD. Do not fall for the cheap glass and digitizer replacements with no LCD.
I was able to replace the LCD panel and digitizer as separate units, but they were separate to start with. That being said, it's definitely more challenging. it's pretty easy to get the two attached to each other, just takes 2 drops (1/10th of one ml) of clear oil. i used a 1/2cc syringe to spread a thin line down the center. came out absolutely perfect. without the oil it's horrible. No contrast and just moiré galore.
The added difficulty comes from getting the two parts to behave while assembling, since they aren't glued, they slip and slide around, and air can get in on the edges and no more dark black.
i tried first with water; terrible results, it interfered with the capacitive touch; ouch. So, i got some practice today re-assembling the phone. the guide was priceless—this is one of the most complex teardowns of ever. i used 12 compartments of an 18-comartment bin.