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iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement

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  1. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement, iOpener Heating: paso 1, imagen 1 de 2 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement, iOpener Heating: paso 1, imagen 2 de 2
    • We recommend that you clean your microwave before proceeding, as any nasty gunk on the bottom may end up stuck to the iOpener.

    • Place the iOpener in the center of the microwave.

    • For carousel microwaves: Make sure the plate spins freely. If your iOpener gets stuck, it may overheat and burn.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Contestar

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Contestar

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Contestar

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Contestar

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Contestar

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Contestar

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Contestar

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Contestar

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Contestar

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Contestar

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Contestar

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Contestar

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Contestar

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Contestar

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Contestar

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Contestar

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Contestar

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Contestar

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Contestar

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Contestar

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Contestar

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Contestar

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Contestar

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Contestar

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Contestar

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree - Contestar

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler - Contestar

    I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

    Tom Weber - Contestar

    iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

    To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

    jharrison - Contestar

    Can’t you just use a hair curler instead?

    Aspect22 - Contestar

    A hairdryer or heat gun works, if heating is kept around 100 deg C (212 deg F - boiling point of water). But… heating this way is cumbersome. Using a hotplate, set to 100 deg C, measured carefully with a fairly inexpensive IR gun, is simpler and easier, if you can afford the hotplate (I used an old pancake griddle with a thermostat knob). It works great for phones, setting them face down for 2 minutes, then picking them up with insulated gloves - cheap, wool gloves work fine. This may require repeated reheating to continue the display removal, but its much simpler.

    Because its almost impossible to repeatedly lay an iPad/tablet on the hot plate, I propose an alternative.

    Initially lay the larger iPad/tablet, face down, for 2 min, to heat all of the adhesive surrounding the display. Lift and begin the picking process describe in your removal steps. Then lay an iOpener on the hotplate for 2 min (already set to the exact, desired temp) to bring it to working temp for the remaining operations.

    Dan Smith - Contestar

    For iPads in particular, it makes sense to construct a simple, aluminum window frame, laid on a hotplate (see my comment above) that only touches the edges of the display, heating only the adhesive underneath. This prevents general heating of the entire device. Four strips of aluminum, placed together as a frame, would be the simplest and allow variations for all devices - envision it as a pinwheel of strips, radiating outward. Use it for any size device.

    Dan Smith - Contestar

    BTW, always read all comments at each step. New, and possibly useful, suggestions appear on occasion that can be crucial.

    Dan Smith - Contestar

  2. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 2, imagen 1 de 1
    • Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.

    • Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.

    • Be careful not to overheat the iOpener during the repair. Overheating may cause the iOpener to burst. Do not attempt to heat over 100˚C (212˚F).

    • Never touch the iOpener if it appears swollen.

    • If the iOpener is still too hot in the middle to touch, continue using it while waiting for it to cool down some more before reheating. A properly heated iOpener should stay warm for up to 10 minutes.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Contestar

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Contestar

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Contestar

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Contestar

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Contestar

    I agree with this.

    Jarl Friis -

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Contestar

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Contestar

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Contestar

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Contestar

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Contestar

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Contestar

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Contestar

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Contestar

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Contestar

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Contestar

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Contestar

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - Contestar

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl - Contestar

    You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

    Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

    William Draheim - Contestar

    Yeah, the iOpener didn't work for me either.... ended up using a hair dryer and that worked. The iOpener was too warm to soften the glue in my case.

    Andrés Vettori - Contestar

  3. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 3, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful when handling it. Use an oven mitt if necessary.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Contestar

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Contestar

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Contestar

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Contestar

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Contestar

    If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
    I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

    Jarl Friis - Contestar

  4. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement, Alternate iOpener heating method: paso 4, imagen 1 de 2 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement, Alternate iOpener heating method: paso 4, imagen 2 de 2
    • If you don't have a microwave, follow this step to heat your iOpener in boiling water.

    • Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.

    • Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.

    • Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.

    • Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.

    • Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.

    • The iOpener will be very hot, so be careful to hold it only by the end tabs.

    • Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com - Contestar

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia - Contestar

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia - Contestar

    Even if you don't put in a ziplock bag, I found that the surface is mostly hydrophobic so drying it is very easy. I also didn't have tongs, but the bag is denser than water, so it sank and I attached clothes pins to the ends and was able to remove it with those.

    Jack Adrian Zappa - Contestar

    2-3 minutes in near boiling water, then 2-3 minutes on my s10+ and it was super easy to cut the glue off.

    Kipras Bielinskas - Contestar

    I have a question, if I have a pan, and I have water, and a mean to boil the water, won't it be easier and cheaper to just use that.

    Ollie Tan - Contestar

    Have you tried it? Water limits your temperature to 100℃, whereas 'pan on the stove' can easily get up to twice that. If your pan is even slightly warped, you'll have a few hot spots of direct conduction with convection everywhere else, heating things unevenly. Assuming you get the device up to temperature, how will you get it out without scratching it or burning yourself? After you're finished, do you really want to prepare food in the pan you warmed up adhesives and trace manufacturing substances in?

    .

    Boiling something form fitting to heat your device with is a lot more foolproof, and not being foolish is easier and cheaper. Direct pan heating can work, but you are leaving yourself open to a lot more problems than just taking the safe route.

    James Beegle -

  5. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: paso 5, imagen 1 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: paso 5, imagen 2 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement, Display Assembly: paso 5, imagen 3 de 3
    • If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.

    • Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.

    • This will keep glass shards contained and provide structural integrity when prying and lifting the display.

    • Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.

    • Wear safety glasses to protect your eyes, and be careful not to damage the LCD screen.

  6. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 6, imagen 1 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 6, imagen 2 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 6, imagen 3 de 3
    • Removing the display assembly involves using a halberd spudger or opening pick to separate the adhesive securing the display to the rear case.

    • Use the photos in this step to know the locations of the adhesive and where it is the thickest.

    • Refer to these images while following the guide to see where the adhesive is thickest and where to cut the deepest with your opening tool.

  7. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 7, imagen 1 de 1
    • Lay the hot iOpener over the left edge of the iPad to soften the adhesive holding it in place.

    • Alternatively, use a heat gun, hair dryer, or heat pad to heat the perimeter of your iPad.

    • Wait about two minutes for the adhesive to soften before proceeding to the next step.

  8. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 8, imagen 1 de 1
    • Attach a suction handle to the left edge of the iPad's display, equidistant from the top and bottom corners.

  9. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 9, imagen 1 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 9, imagen 2 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 9, imagen 3 de 3
    • While holding down the corners of the device, repeatedly pull up on the display then ease it back down to weaken the adhesive.

    • Once you've opened a small gap between the front panel and the rear case, insert the blade of a halberd spudger or an opening pick in the gap you've created.

    • Do not insert the pick more than 2 millimeters. Going any farther will permanently damage the display assembly. If using a halberd spudger, slice with the shortest part of the blade.

  10. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 10, imagen 1 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 10, imagen 2 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 10, imagen 3 de 3
    • Lay a hot iOpener along the bottom left corner of the iPad, spanning from the opening pick to the home button.

    • After letting the adhesive soften, insert a halberd spudger into the iPad next to the opening pick.

    • An opening pick can be used in place of the halberd spudger. Use caution if using an opening pick, as inserting the pick too far can damage the display assembly.

    • Cut the adhesive along the bottom left side of the iPad using the halberd spudger. This may require reheating the edge of the iPad.

    • Continue to slide the halberd spudger back and forth to ensure most of the adhesive is separated.

  11. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 11, imagen 1 de 2 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 11, imagen 2 de 2
    • Insert a pick in the bottom left corner of the iPad to ensure that the adhesive doesn't completely reset.

    • Remove the halberd spudger.

  12. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 12, imagen 1 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 12, imagen 2 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 12, imagen 3 de 3
    • Lay a hot iOpener along the upper left corner of the iPad, spanning from the opening pick to the front-facing camera.

    • After letting the adhesive soften, insert the blade of your halberd spudger into the iPad above the opening pick.

    • Cut the adhesive along the upper left side of the iPad towards the front-facing camera using the halberd spudger. This may require reheating the edge of the iPad.

  13. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 13, imagen 1 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 13, imagen 2 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 13, imagen 3 de 3
    • Insert a pick in the upper left corner of the iPad.

    • Remove the halberd spudger.

  14. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 14, imagen 1 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 14, imagen 2 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 14, imagen 3 de 3
    • Reheat your iOpener and lay it over the top edge of the device. Wait a couple minutes for the adhesive to soften.

    • Once the front panel is adequately heated, insert the blade of a halberd spudger next to the opening pick from the previous step.

    • Slide the blade along the top edge of the iPad, stopping before reaching the front-facing camera.

  15. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 15, imagen 1 de 2 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 15, imagen 2 de 2
    • Insert an opening pick just before the front-facing camera.

  16. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 16, imagen 1 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 16, imagen 2 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 16, imagen 3 de 3
    • If necessary, reheat your iOpener and lay it over the top edge of the device. Wait a couple minutes for the adhesive to soften before reinserting the blade of the halberd spudger.

    • Insert the blade of the halberd spudger just past the front-facing camera, on the opposite side of the opening pick.

    • Continue to slide the blade of the halberd spudger to the upper right corner of the iPad.

  17. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 17, imagen 1 de 2 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 17, imagen 2 de 2
    • Bring the halberd spudger around the corner of the iPad and insert an opening pick in the upper right corner to prevent the adhesive from resettling.

  18. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 18, imagen 1 de 2 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 18, imagen 2 de 2
    • Soften the adhesive by heating the right edge of the iPad using an iOpener.

    • Continue using the halberd spudger to cut away the adhesive holding the display assembly in place, stopping at the middle of the right edge.

  19. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 19, imagen 1 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 19, imagen 2 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 19, imagen 3 de 3
    • Remove the pick that was placed in the middle of the top edge of the iPad, next to the front-facing camera.

    • If you have extra opening picks or similar tools you do not need to remove this one.

    • Insert that pick in the middle of the right edge of the iPad.

  20. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 20, imagen 1 de 2 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 20, imagen 2 de 2
    • Insert the halberd spudger between the display and rear case, along the right edge of the device.

    • Slide the halberd spudger down the side of the iPad to separate the adhesive.

  21. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 21, imagen 1 de 2 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 21, imagen 2 de 2
    • Bring the blade of your opening tool around the lower right corner of the device.

    • Insert a pick in the lower right corner of the iPad where you slid the blade through.

    • Remove the halberd spudger.

  22. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 22, imagen 1 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 22, imagen 2 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 22, imagen 3 de 3
    • Use an iOpener to heat the bottom of the iPad.

    • Insert the blade of a halberd spudger to the left of the opening pick on the bottom right corner of the iPad.

    • Slide the halberd spudger along the lower edge of the iPad stopping short about 1 centimeter before reaching the home button.

  23. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 23, imagen 1 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 23, imagen 2 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 23, imagen 3 de 3
    • Remove the pick in the middle of the left side of the iPad.

    • If you have extra opening picks or similar tools you do not need to remove this one.

    • Insert the pick to the right of home button.

  24. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 24, imagen 1 de 2 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 24, imagen 2 de 2
    • Pivot the halberd spudger so that you are slicing with the shortest portion of the blade.

    • Slide the halberd spudger to cut the adhesive below the home button.

  25. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 25, imagen 1 de 2 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 25, imagen 2 de 2
    • Reinsert the blade of the halberd spudger as deep as it will go.

    • Continue sliding the blade along the edge until you reach the first opening pick you inserted.

  26. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 26, imagen 1 de 2 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 26, imagen 2 de 2
    • Return to step 5 of this guide and ensure the thick portions of adhesive are adequately separated from the display assembly. If they are, continue with this step. Otherwise, slice the adhesive to break it up until the display assembly is freed.

    • The display cables in this iPad are shorter than some users may be comfortable with. Read the following warnings before proceeding:

    • Do not pivot the display about the lower edge. The display cables do not have enough slack to allow for this and will tear if you do not slide the display towards the front-facing camera as you lift.

    • The display cables will tear if you raise the display more than 80º.

    • Lift up the upper edge of the display and slide it towards the front-facing camera to access the iPads internal components.

  27. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 27, imagen 1 de 1
    • It's important to disconnect the battery before you proceed further. Detaching or connecting the display cables with the battery plugged in can cause a short that will destroy touchscreen functionality.

    • To disconnect the battery:

    • First, securely prop up the display so that it won't fall or strain the display cables while you work.

    • Then, remove the nine Phillips screws securing the logic board EMI shield:

    • Eight 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.4 mm screw

  28. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 28, imagen 1 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 28, imagen 2 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 28, imagen 3 de 3
    • Lift the logic board EMI shield from the edge nearest the top of the iPad.

    • Peel the EMI shield up from the logic board.

    • This takes a bit of force due to the many tiny clips securing the shield, and the shield may deform slightly. That's okay—try to keep the deformation to a minimum, and it will lay flat when reinstalled and screwed down.

    • Remove the logic board EMI shield.

  29. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 29, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector.

  30. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 30, imagen 1 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 30, imagen 2 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 30, imagen 3 de 3
    • Insert a Battery Blocker or other insulator underneath the logic board to separate it from the battery connector.

    • The battery blocker is an outdated way of isolating the battery, as you risk damaging the battery pins underneath the logic board. If you use this method, take extreme care to insert it gently and straight in the direction of the logic board. Don't significantly deform the the logic board as you do this. Don't twist or swing the pick side to side.

    • Leave it there to prevent the battery connector leads from making contact until you have completed your repairs.

    • The rest of the images in this guide show the logic board EMI shield reinstalled, which is incorrect. Follow the instructions, but keep the battery disconnected and do not reinstall the EMI shield until your repairs are complete.

  31. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 31, imagen 1 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 31, imagen 2 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 31, imagen 3 de 3
    • While supporting the display assembly, remove the following three Phillips screws over the display cable bracket.

    • 2.4 mm Phillips screw

    • 1.2 mm Phillips screw

    • Remove the display cable bracket.

  32. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 32, imagen 1 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 32, imagen 2 de 3 iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 32, imagen 3 de 3
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two display data and digitizer cables from their respective sockets on the motherboard.

  33. iPad Pro 12.9" Display Assembly Replacement: paso 33, imagen 1 de 1
Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

88 personas más completaron esta guía.

Evan Noronha

Miembro Desde 02/05/15

223,223 Reputación

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21 comentarios

Hello there OK so I have 2 screens with 2 different connectors one L shaped (which is on the new screen) and the old cracked screen has a rectangular type? I’m not sure rather it’s a 1gen/2nd gen type of problem? I’m about to grab my hot air gun to completely disassemble the cracked screen, as maybe I’m missing something? Any assistance is welcome… well actually please help me with this before I get a headache since this has totally frustrated me and i’ve had this sitting for nearly 2 1/2 months now but it’s about that time that I readdress this in attempt to fix it.

Matthew Newton - Contestar

Hi, does your replacement screen have the home button assembly included? Otherwise there's need of soldering the assembly to it before it can be installed.

Dreetn -

hi

does anyone knows why there is a foam adhesive in thr back of the screen ? do i need to put back when i replaxe screen ?

thanks

screensguy - Contestar

I suppose the foam adhesive is similar to the one on the back of the 6s screens. I guess it has more of a heat dissipation function or is meant to absorb any pointy pressure points from inside that may develop (loose screw, sand, dirt...)

Dreetn -

hi

hope someone can help . i tested couple of screens before fitting them in they were working but once tech close it there no touch or black lcd (backlight on but no image )

NB : they disconnect battery before connecting Screen

screensguy - Contestar

If you don't have this problem while the assembly is still loose, my best guess is that you have an unwanted contact somewhere, causing a short circuit or malfunction. Perhaps in the bending of the flex?

Dreetn -

Removing the screen takes a great degree of patience. You apply heat, and pull on the suction cup, and for a long time nothing seems to happen. Do not try to replace time with force at this point keep heating and pulling on various areas, you will get separation. It took 5 or 6 heating/pulling cycles to start to see results. Then you can work your way around.

oclark - Contestar

MAKE SURE YOU DO NOT INSERT ANY CARDS/PICKS/SPUDGERS MORE THAN 1/4 inch tops!! YOU WILL DAMAGE THE SCREEN. Just replaced the battery in my iPad Pro 12.9 (A1652). Unfortunately I did not read this until completed. I now have several areas on my $1000 iPad where the white screen has orange burn looking marks around the edges. Looks like it was a $200 oops. Live and Learn. I’m now a member and will utilize this website for future endeavors…

Dave Ryberg - Contestar

You know any workshop who does a repair for my three iPad Pro 12.9 front glasses with the digitizer,

Sometimes the process is called OCA refurbishment oder LCD refurbishment.

NOT the display-unit as a whole. I have two models from 2015 and one from 2017. The model numbers are a 1584 and  a 1670.

 In Germany there are a few companies who are able to do it, but not affordable. The prices are nearly as high as a complete swap of the display unit.

giuseppe naniscola - Contestar

Just wondering, I work in a repair shop, and am replacing the front panel entirely but unfortunately screwed up soldering the daughterboard. Is this a part they MUST be transferred or am I safe to just replace it?

Zane Clark - Contestar

Hello.

Is it possible to change only the “Glas” and not the Display? My display works fine but the Protecting Glas is broken.

sim sem - Contestar

Hi, that’s possible for very, very experienced technicians. Not only do you need to heat up the screen quite a lot to soften up the LOCA glue, but furthermore you need to cut it with a cutting wire while making sure not to damage the LCD underneath. I also fear the iPad pro will probably require some micro-soldering to be able to (dis)connect the glass from all the rest (but perhaps I’m confusing things with the first screen modules in mind that came out but still needed some micro-soldering to finish them of at that time). In short, if you haven’t separated touchscreens/glass plates several times before … don’t even think about it. The above is only half the trouble to go through as the new touchscreen/glass needs to be attached to the LCD again with new LOCA glue afterwards. Again a job which requires a lot of expertise.

Dreetn -

I used this guide to replace a screen for my iPad Pro. The device powers on but now gets stuck in a boot loop. I took it to a local phone repair shop and they said they don’t do repairs on iPad Pros because they always get stuck in boot loops. I wish there was a warning on this guide telling people this so they don’t go to all the effort and spend money on a new screen just to get their iPad stuck in a boot loop.

Brandon der Blatter - Contestar

Brandon, I don’t know of any specific ‘sensitivity’ that iPad Pro’s have towards repairing that would result in bootloops.

I think it is more likely that either

- The repair shop isn’t keen on repairing your device because parts are expensive and/or difficult to find (for instance motherboard parts). They just tell you a believable story to avoid having to say ‘Too risky’ or ‘Not worth our effort/time’.

- Something got damaged during the repair.

Another possibility, which you can easily put aside yourself, is software damage. Try a full restore (without data retention) with tools such as 3uTools. It’s free software. I advise using the iTunes restore method. You can first try a restore with ‘retain user’s data’ but success ratio is minimal there. Best is to go for a clean flash/restore.

Good luck!

Dreetn -

No matter how many times I have tried to apply the iOpener, or to use a dryer for 10 mins (iPad was super hot), I’m simply unable to lift the screen with the suction cup, even for a micron. Anything I could have missed ?

Laurent Crivello - Contestar

Hi Laurent, it sounds like you’re on the right track—continue gradually applying more heat until the adhesive softens a little. Unfortunately these screens are super hard to remove. Just be careful about applying too much heat at once in a small area as that could damage the screen.

Adam O'Camb -

hi all, I'm part-way through this (amazing instructions as always), while I was removing the EMI shield the sticky fabric underneath came away and rolled up on itself, do I need to make a new one or can I replace the shield without it? Many thanks

johnegrey - Contestar

While removing the screen I accidentally pulled the soldering from the daughterboard to the display cable. is their a way to fix this or is it an issue?

jacob myers - Contestar

This was an awesome guide! It was really fun, but a lot of really careful work!! How could anybody do this repair and charge a reasonable rate for the labor? It took me soooo long.

trevorsklar - Contestar

Hey there! It will be great if you create a guide to replace the digitalizer, as the LCD could be reusable.

Thank you!

Jose - Contestar

FYI - on the 12.9" iPad it's practically impossible to detach the screen without damaging it. Not an issue if you're fixing a screen that's already broken, but if you're trying to repair an internal component, be prepared to buy a replacement screen as well.

hhtec - Contestar

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