Introducción
Usa esta guía para quitar y reemplazar la batería del iPad Pro 10.5”.
Debido a que hay pasos en esta guía en los que la batería puede permanecer conectada a la placa lógica, deja el iPad encendido hasta que la batería esté "completamente descargada" (el iPad se apaga solo) antes de intentar esta guía. Una batería de iones de litio cargada puede incendiarse y/o explotar si se perfora accidentalmente.
Ten suficiente alcohol isopropílico de alta concentración (>90 %) para facilitar la eliminación y la limpieza de residuos.
Si tu batería está hinchada, [[What to do with a swollen battery|toma las precauciones adecuadas
Qué necesitas
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Es posible que deba volver a aplicar calor repetidamente durante este proceso para evitar que el adhesivo se enfríe y se endurezca.
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Prepara un iOpener y colócalo en el borde inferior de la pantalla del iPad durante unos dos minutos.
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Coloca una ventosa junto al botón de inicio del iPad y presiona hacia abajo para crear un sello.
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Tira firmemente hacia arriba de la ventosa para crear un pequeño espacio entre el panel frontal y la carcasa trasera.
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Una vez que hayas abierto un espacio suficiente, inserte una púa de apertura en el espacio.
i used a proper suction tile puller (small one from DIY store used to hold bathroom tiles) to lift the screen off after heating around the edge using a heat gun. Be careful - It didn't damage anything. The tiny suction things that come with those iPhone kits are not strong enough for this. The one in picture might be good, but looks similar to the kits ones that have key ring.
The suction cup that comes with the iPad battery replacement is plenty large enough and strong enough.
CAUTION, do not push the picks in more than a the width of the replacement screen adhesive strips. You will damage the $200 screen, maybe break the glass. The screen is multiple layers and the picks can get in-between the layers if you push too far in. I got into trouble at the lower left corner. After getting the screen loose, I found that I only need a 2-3 millimeters on the sides and bottom, and four or five millimeters in the corners.
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Corta el adhesivo debajo de la pantalla deslizando la púa a lo largo del borde de la pantalla, hacia la esquina inferior izquierda.
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Deja la púa en su lugar temporalmente para evitar que el adhesivo se vuelva a sellar.
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Aplica calor al borde izquierdo del iPad durante unos dos minutos, o hasta que esté un poco demasiado caliente para tocarlo cómodamente.
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Si es necesario, vuelve a calentar su iOpener durante unos segundos o hasta que esté demasiado caliente para tocarlo. Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener o podría explotar.
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Inserta una segunda púa de apertura en la esquina inferior izquierda del iPad.
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Desliza la segunda púa de apertura a lo largo del lado izquierdo de la pantalla para separar el adhesivo debajo.
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Deja la púa de apertura insertada cerca de la esquina superior izquierda del iPad para evitar que el adhesivo se vuelva a sellar.
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Aplica calor al borde final derecho del iPad durante unos dos minutos, o hasta que esté un poco demasiado caliente para tocarlo cómodamente.
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Inserta una cuarta púa de apertura en la esquina superior derecha del iPad.
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Desliza la púa de apertura hacia la esquina inferior derecha para cortar el adhesivo.
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Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina inferior derecha, haciendo una pausa para aplicar más calor si es necesario, y corta el adhesivo restante en el borde inferior, pero deténte antes de llegar al botón de inicio.
We must be very careful when we are prying left and right size bezel to peel off the screen as there very little gap between edges and LCD. Slightly inside push can crack LCD. We need to pay full care and raising edges very very slowly.
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Inserta una quinta púa de apertura en la parte superior del iPad cerca (pero no directamente) de la cámara frontal.
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Gire suavemente la púa para separar el ensamblaje de la pantalla del iPad.
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Si es necesario, aplique más calor y / o corte cualquier adhesivo restante que evite que la pantalla se separe.
Be very gentle when twisting. My screen broke in this step. I would not twist it but try to remove glue further as there is a aluminium support of the screen in the wide area beneath the light sensors and there is glue on that also preventing in easy lifting the screen. Just be careful not to damage the light sensors and camera.
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Levanta el ensamblaje de la pantalla desde su borde superior y deslízalo con cuidado hacia arriba (hacia la cámara frontal y el conector para auriculares), hasta que el tornillo que sujeta el conector de alimentación de la batería se vea en la parte inferior.
How do you go about getting to this battery connector as it is covered by a large metal shield above the logic board, if you do not disconnect the battery you risk frying the back light.
The metal shield is not relevant for this. You can leave it in place or remove it if it comes of. Once the screw of the plate is removed you will be able to lift the print a little bit and put someting between the battery connector and the board connector. The connector is beneath the print. Look further on to see a deck card is used for this.
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This picture looks nothing like my A2152 battery connector. I can’t really tell what is happening here.
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Para desconectar la batería, desliza una punta de un bloqueador de baterías o la punta de una púa de apertura bajo el conector de alimentación de la batería para asegurar que el circuito de alimentación se interrumpe.
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Deja el bloqueador de la batería en su lugar mientras trabajas.
I found it very hard to fit something under the battery power connector. I did not have a battery blocker, so I tried a playing card. I was not able to slide it between the springs. The section of the battery power connector, above the cantilever springs, did not seem to want to give at all, like in the picture above. If other people had success, I would love to hear how.
I didn’t have success either, but i kept myself grounded, and avoided battery contact as much as possible.
I used a playing card cut to shape. I had to make a couple, to try a few times.. It does go in eventually. Not deep, but enough to break connection. You can test by trying to switch on iPad.
It took some time but I was able to get it under the back part and slide it forward.
You must disconnect the battery before plugging the new screen. I think i didn't break the circuit in first attempt and shorted the screen, the result was half of the screen didn't work. I used a playing card. Second attempt was successful with new screen.
I believe I have a good solution to this problem. I was dissatisfied with the thickness of the battery blocker, or even a thin guitar pick, for that matter; both required force and I feared bending the springs or leaving the connection intact.
What worked for me was cutting a small strip of non-conductive, static-proof film (the kind that RAM and other sensitive components come in). There was every reason to trust in its non-conductivity but just to be sure, I used a VOM to test; its resistance was out of the VOMs range, meaning that its conductivity was nil. I used a spudger to gently lift the logic board off of the battery contacts and slid the non-conductive strip in between; went without a hitch.
When reassembling, I laid the strip on the battery contacts, laid the logic board on top, installed it, connected the display panel and gently drew the slip out and installed the battery screw. Worked like a charm.
These are some extremely misleading set of instructions and picture. Much better if you have the battery discharged, so don't need to worry about blocking the connector. But DO NOT force anything in the through the socket and certainly do not try to bend up the soldered cover, as it appears to be happening in the picture. You will break the connector, most likely resulting in ipad shutting down every 3 minutes from the notorious "thermal sensor missing" panic system crash.
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Levante lentamente la pantalla desde su borde superior, teniendo cuidado de no tensar los cables planos conectados.
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Quite los dos tornillos Phillips de 1,3 mm que sujetan el soporte de la cubierta del conector de la pantalla.
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Retire el soporte de la cubierta del conector de la pantalla.
Here it is very precocious steps to do. Flx cables to connectors are small in size and we cannot lift the display vertically. Therefore, we may struggle to unscrew the metal shield. We need to use smaller size of philip screw driver or place vertically the display to create enough gap between philip screw driver and the cover bracket. Similarly, when we are replacing new display we need to be carefully connect four flex cable with connectors with logic board.
agree, with re-assembly very tiny screws and awkward positioning, the back two cables pop off if not careful.
I did this step using just the tip of the PH000 screwdriver, it made it much easier to get my hands into the small space, the replacement screen from ifixit had tighter cables that I was not comfortable stretching out to go to a 90* angle to screw back on. Make sure your tip is magnetized for best results :)!
Meaning no disrespect for this excellent guide, I found this photo to be a bit misleading; at least in my case. It clearly shows about 90˚ between the case and the display. I tested the limits with the one I was repairing and could find no way to raise the display far enough to clear a screwdriver without jeopardizing the cables. I resorted to the same solution that Amber Wooldridge discovered; using a PH000 bit and hand-tightening. I had a tiny needle-nosed plier that I used to tighten them a bit (but very gently).
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Usa un spudger para desconectar los dos conectores flexibles de la pantalla visible haciendo palanca suavemente hacia arriba de sus enchufes.
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Para volver a colocar los conectores a presión como éste, alinea con cuidado y presiona hacia abajo en un lado hasta que encaje en su sitio, y luego repite en el otro lado. No presiones en el centro. Si el conector está mal alineado, las clavijas pueden doblarse y causar daños permanentes.
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Usa tu spudger para levantarlos suavemente y desconectarlos.
I went to replace the LCD assembly on an ipad Air 3, and one of the flex cables on the new LCD assembly broke in half. The flex cables on the old assembly work well and are intact. Is it possible to transfer the old flex cable(s) to the new assembly, or can I solder the broken pieces of the new flex cable together? I have also contacted the part supplier about this and am awaiting a response.
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Retira el ensamblaje de la pantalla.
Definitely test your iPad’s functions before sealing it up. I needed to reopen the display to reconnect the display connectors in order to have the display functioning properly. As a result, the adhesive strips did not work as well and I needed to tape some of the edges closed with a small section of strong clear packing tape.
I stuck the adhesive to the chassis first. That was messy because the plastic that covers the adhesive seems to be for screen side first. So you end up exposing both sides and those collect dust. I now realise you're supposed to put the adhesive on screen first. Not sure if it would have made much difference in the outcome (mine screen is not stuck in some places).
I found this out too. I had two sealing kits and they were both meant to be fixed on the screen first. I did not managed to get the screen to stick with the body as well. Now used some B6000 glue in addition.
agrior -
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Usa un destornillador Phillips para quitar los diez tornillos que aseguran el escudo EMI:
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Ocho tornillos de 1,3 mm
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Dos tornillos un poco más largos
The top two screws are longer than the rest on my iPad. Be careful to put them back in the right spots.
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Aplica un iOpener calentado al escudo EMI para aflojar el adhesivo debajo. Aplica el iOpener durante al menos dos minutos.
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Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar el escudo EMI, comenzando desde el borde superior cerca de la cámara frontal.
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Continúa levantando con cuidado el escudo EMI hasta que puedas quitarlo.
The two screws adjacent to the camera location are slightly longer! Make sure you don’t mix them up with the other eight, as shorter ones will not work in this location.
Thanks! I’ve updated the step with your tip!
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Usa el borde de un spudger para levantar y desconectar el cable de interconexión izquierdo y el cable de antena. Dóblalos suavemente fuera del camino.
wo finde ich das AntennenKabel , das ist abgerissen ?
Wo finde ich das Antennenkabel rechts und links das ist bei mir abgerissen ?
We also have no antenna cable as shown…
I think you need to assume that there is glue present and apply heat anyway. In my case the cable was not glued to the board but the connector was. So when I tried to gently lever the connector up, the cable ripped off the connector.
If you look at the picture shown in step 21, you can actually see the glue on the connector.
The left and right small antenna connectors are extremely delicate! They can crack if bent back too much and it's difficult to avoid bending them too much when removing and re-installing the logic board. This will cause the cellular radio and GPS to be inoperable. To be safe, remove antenna assembly (not shown in this guide) prior to removing the logic board.
To add to my comment, I'm actually working to replace the left and right small antenna connectors due to me breaking them. I'd recommend removing the top left and right speakers and just fully removing the two antenna connectors prior to removing the logic board. You do not need to fully remove the cellular antenna assemblies, just unscrew the plate/connector (with annoying perpendicular screws too) that cover the other ends of the small antenna connectors (easy to figure out once you remove the speakers).
To remove the speakers remove 3 screws, then just pry carefully (they have adhesive tape holding them down).
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Retira el bloqueador de batería del conector de alimentación de la batería.
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Desliza un lado del Bloqueador de batería debajo del conector de alimentación de la batería y asegúrate de que no cubra el conector ZIF para el cable flexible de la bandeja de la tarjeta SIM.
What should I do to block the battery instead?
"The battery isolation pick or battery blocker is an outdated way of isolating the battery, as you risk damaging the battery pins underneath the logic board."
As the previous comment says, if this is an "outdated way" then what is the up to date way?
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Usa una púa de apertura para levantar la solapa de bloqueo del conector ZIF.
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Usa un par de pinzas para sacar y desconectar el cable flexible de la bandeja de la tarjeta SIM.
I don't have this connector on my 10.5 Pro. Maybe this is only for equipment with cellular. This needs to be confirmed by an expert.
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Aplica un poco de solvente debajo de la batería en los tres puntos separados donde se encuentran las tiras adhesivas más largas. Aplica el solvente solo punto por punto y no en un movimiento continuo.
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Permite que el solvente penetre durante varios minutos para ayudar a debilitar el adhesivo.
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Retira el iOpener para que el iPad quede plano y gíralo para que el conector de los auriculares mire hacia ti.
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Inserta una tarjeta de plástico debajo de la celda de la batería, comenzando cerca de la esquina exterior.
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Mueve la tarjeta de un lado a otro y empújala debajo de la batería para separar el adhesivo que se encuentra debajo.
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Inserta con cuidado un spudger debajo de la batería a la misma altura que los conectores de la pantalla. Es posible que debas volver a aplicar un iOpener o un removedor de adhesivo.
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Levanta la batería con el spudger y corta el adhesivo restante con él.
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Levanta la batería con el spudger para asegurarte de que todo el adhesivo se afloje.
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Coloca la tarjeta de plástico debajo del centro de la celda de la batería y déjala allí para evitar que el adhesivo se vuelva a sellar.
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Continúa aplicando solvente por separado en las dos ubicaciones restantes de la tira adhesiva. Deja que penetre durante varios minutos para ayudar a debilitar el adhesivo.
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Retira el iOpener para que el iPad quede plano y gíralo para que el conector de los auriculares mire hacia ti.
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Inserta una tarjeta de plástico debajo de la celda de la batería, comenzando cerca de la esquina exterior.
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Mueve la tarjeta de un lado a otro y empújala debajo de la batería para separar el adhesivo que se encuentra debajo.
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Desliza la tarjeta de plástico hacia el borde inferior del iPad y corta todo el adhesivo debajo de la celda de la batería.
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Usa un par de pinzas para despegar las partes restantes de la tira adhesiva.
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Limpia las áreas pegadas con alcohol isopropílico y un paño sin pelusa antes de instalar una batería nueva para asegurarte de que la batería nueva encaje y el adhesivo se adhiera correctamente.
After a successful battery replacement we ran into an issue where the iPad Pro would crash once or twice a day. I made sure to calibrate the battery per repair instructions but that didn’t fix the issue. I got it resolved after backing up the iPad and then putting it into DFU mode through iTunes and installed a fresh copy of iPadOS and then restore from backup. That fixed the issue of iPad crashing. Hope this helps if you run into a similar issue.
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Compara tu nueva pieza de repuesto con la pieza original. Es posible que debas transferir los componentes restantes o quitar los respaldos adhesivos de la pieza nueva antes de instalarla.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Si es posible enciende tu iPad y prueba tu reparación antes de volver a sellar la tableta.
Para un rendimiento óptimo, calibra tu batería recién instalada después de completar esta guía: cárgala al 100 % y sigue cargándola durante al menos 2 horas más. Luego usa tu dispositivo hasta que se apague debido a la batería baja. Finalmente, cárgalo ininterrumpidamente al 100%
Lleva tus desechos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje certificado.
¿La reparación no ha ido como estaba previsto? Consulta nuestra Comunidad de respuestas para obtener ayuda en la resolución de problemas.
Compara tu nueva pieza de repuesto con la pieza original. Es posible que debas transferir los componentes restantes o quitar los respaldos adhesivos de la pieza nueva antes de instalarla.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Si es posible enciende tu iPad y prueba tu reparación antes de volver a sellar la tableta.
Para un rendimiento óptimo, calibra tu batería recién instalada después de completar esta guía: cárgala al 100 % y sigue cargándola durante al menos 2 horas más. Luego usa tu dispositivo hasta que se apague debido a la batería baja. Finalmente, cárgalo ininterrumpidamente al 100%
Lleva tus desechos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje certificado.
¿La reparación no ha ido como estaba previsto? Consulta nuestra Comunidad de respuestas para obtener ayuda en la resolución de problemas.
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12 comentarios
If you say the “the battery isolation method in this guide is outdated” then what is the correct way to isolate the battery?!?! The rest of the guide makes no mention of the correct/prefered method of isolating the battery.
How is it that the author took the time to update the guide with that message but failed to mention what should be done instead
Good point! We are currently still researching a more reliable alternative to the battery isolation procedure. As of now, the battery blocker method still works—it just has substantial dangers. This is especially true for iPad Pros, where the Logic Board is adhered to the frame. I’ve reworded the warnings to reflect this.
Hi can you advise please? In step 25 the SIM card tray flex cable is disconnected, no problem apart from i don’t have a SIM card tray flex cable in the A1701 that i’m repairing!! Urgent assistance required please. Regards R
You have the Wi-Fi model, which will look slightly different and have different procedures compared to the cellular model. You can skip the SIM flex cable step.
Ich habe diese Antennenkabel defekt wo bekomme ich sie oder für was sind die ?
hi
I fixed my battery according to the guide.
I have two problem
1. battery screw not able screw back in. but I am able to turn on iPad.
2. after turning on I am not able to unlock because on the keypad 1, 2, 3, these keys not responding to the touch. all other keys are touch responsive.
kindly help me with these two issues.
many thanks
I just finished following this guide, thank you so much for writing it!
I know that 18 of the 43 involve dealing with glue, but JEEZ that’s still underselling how much glue is in this thing.
The iOpener worked surprisingly well for removing the display. But the iFixit adhesive remover was not effective for removing the old battery. After 5 minutes, the solvent only ate around the edges of the adhesive strips and made a huge gooey mess with the center still sticky. After 10 minutes the glue had already re-adhered. I recommend anyone reading this try heat first, and see whether that works for you.
FWIW, I skipped the steps with the battery blocker since there doesn’t seems to be consensus on how to do it safely. I just made sure the battery was completely dead so the backlight couldn’t turn on and fry anything even if it wanted to.
Either way, after about 3 hours start to finish including cleanup (man there was a lot of cleanup) I’m very happy to say that I have a new battery and everything is working perfectly!!
thanks for the guide, after fighting against the glue, and sweeting like i was running a marathon i just replaced the stupid battery, the only problem, its that the top right speaker sounds baad, like its loose or something, and its weird, because i never touch it, ill try to open it tomorrow and see what's the problem
The guide should include a warning not to clean the glue around the edges of the screen after opening. Or, at least not use any solvent. Any liquid you use will leak in between the digitizer and LCD, hence ruining your display. Another comment though, why the battery I bought like two weeks ago is made in May of 2019?
I was lucky enough to take off the adhesive from the Logic board and the battery without using any solvents and used just my hair dryer. You definitely need to be patient with the process and not force it. Putting the new battery back on, as well as putting back on the display, and camera was super quick. Those darn new screen adhesives are a pain to put on but once the screen sits flush with the body, it was totally worth it. Think I spend about an hour and a half total. Battery isolation with the little pick did help out and felt safe having it in place throughout the repair process. Having the locations of where the battery adhesives were located, as well as the Smart connector was super clutch! I appreciate the disclaimers and warnings all throughout the repair guide.
Just to provide some failing experience and heads-up: My LCD screen has cracks and flickering after the battery replacement. I think it’s because when removing the screen I used the suction cup too frequently and added too much pressure to the screen when using it. Try to use the iOpener and the pick for most of the time for removing the screen.
