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Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA

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  1. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Calentamiento del iOpener: paso 1, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Calentamiento del iOpener: paso 1, imagen 2 de 2
    • Te recomendamos que limpies tu microondas antes de continuar, ya que cualquier suciedad desagradable en la parte inferior puede terminar pegado al iOpener.

    • Coloca el iOpener en el centro del microondas.

    • Para microondas giratorios: Asegúrate de que la placa gira libremente. Si el iOpener se queda atascado, puede sobrecalentarse y quemarse.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Contestar

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Contestar

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Contestar

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Contestar

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Contestar

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Contestar

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Contestar

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Contestar

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Contestar

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Contestar

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Contestar

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Contestar

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Contestar

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Contestar

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Contestar

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Contestar

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Contestar

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Contestar

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Contestar

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Contestar

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Contestar

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Contestar

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Contestar

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Contestar

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Contestar

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree - Contestar

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler - Contestar

    I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

    Tom Weber - Contestar

    iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

    To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

    jharrison - Contestar

    Can’t you just use a hair curler instead?

    Aspect22 - Contestar

    A hairdryer or heat gun works, if heating is kept around 100 deg C (212 deg F - boiling point of water). But… heating this way is cumbersome. Using a hotplate, set to 100 deg C, measured carefully with a fairly inexpensive IR gun, is simpler and easier, if you can afford the hotplate (I used an old pancake griddle with a thermostat knob). It works great for phones, setting them face down for 2 minutes, then picking them up with insulated gloves - cheap, wool gloves work fine. This may require repeated reheating to continue the display removal, but its much simpler.

    Because its almost impossible to repeatedly lay an iPad/tablet on the hot plate, I propose an alternative.

    Initially lay the larger iPad/tablet, face down, for 2 min, to heat all of the adhesive surrounding the display. Lift and begin the picking process describe in your removal steps. Then lay an iOpener on the hotplate for 2 min (already set to the exact, desired temp) to bring it to working temp for the remaining operations.

    Dan Smith - Contestar

    For iPads in particular, it makes sense to construct a simple, aluminum window frame, laid on a hotplate (see my comment above) that only touches the edges of the display, heating only the adhesive underneath. This prevents general heating of the entire device. Four strips of aluminum, placed together as a frame, would be the simplest and allow variations for all devices - envision it as a pinwheel of strips, radiating outward. Use it for any size device.

    Dan Smith - Contestar

    BTW, always read all comments at each step. New, and possibly useful, suggestions appear on occasion that can be crucial.

    Dan Smith - Contestar

  2. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 2, imagen 1 de 1
    • Calienta el iOpener durante treinta segundos.

    • A lo largo del procedimiento de reparación, en cuanto el iOpener se enfríe, vuelve a calentarlo en el microondas treinta segundos más cada vez.

    • Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante la reparación. El sobrecalentamiento puede provocar que el iOpener se rompa. No intentes calentar a más de 100 ˚C (212 ˚F).

    • Nunca toques el iOpener si parece estar hinchado.

    • Si el iOpener esta todavía demasiado caliente al tacto, sigue utilizándolo mientras esperas a que se enfríe un poco más antes de recalentar. Un iOpener adecuadamente climatizado debe mantenerse caliente durante un máximo de 10 minutos.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Contestar

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Contestar

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Contestar

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Contestar

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Contestar

    I agree with this.

    Jarl Friis -

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Contestar

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Contestar

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Contestar

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Contestar

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Contestar

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Contestar

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Contestar

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Contestar

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Contestar

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Contestar

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Contestar

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - Contestar

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl - Contestar

    You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

    Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

    William Draheim - Contestar

    Yeah, the iOpener didn't work for me either.... ended up using a hair dryer and that worked. The iOpener was too warm to soften the glue in my case.

    Andrés Vettori - Contestar

  3. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 3, imagen 1 de 1
    • Saca el iOpener del microondas, tomándolo por una de las esquinas planas para evitar el centro caliente.

    • El iOpener estará muy caliente, ten cuidado cuando lo manipules. Utiliza guantes de horno si es necesario.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Contestar

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Contestar

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Contestar

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Contestar

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Contestar

    If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
    I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

    Jarl Friis - Contestar

  4. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Método de calentamiento alternativo iOpener: paso 4, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Método de calentamiento alternativo iOpener: paso 4, imagen 2 de 2
    • Si no tienes un microondas, sigue este paso para calentar su iOpener en agua hirviendo.

    • Llena una olla o cacerola con suficiente agua para sumergir completamente el iOpener.

    • Calienta el agua hasta que hierva. Apaga el fuego.

    • Coloca un iOpener en el agua caliente durante 2-3 minutos. Asegúrate de que el iOpener esté completamente sumergido en el agua.

    • Utiliza unas pinzas para extraer el iOpener calentado del agua caliente.

    • Seca bien el iOpener con una toalla.

    • El iOpener estará muy caliente, así que ten cuidado de sujetarlo sólo por las lengüetas de los extremos.

    • Tu iOpener está listo para ser utilizado. Si necesita recalentar el iOpener, calienta el agua hasta que hierva, apaga el fuego y coloca el iOpener en el agua durante 2-3 minutos.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com - Contestar

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia - Contestar

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia - Contestar

    Even if you don't put in a ziplock bag, I found that the surface is mostly hydrophobic so drying it is very easy. I also didn't have tongs, but the bag is denser than water, so it sank and I attached clothes pins to the ends and was able to remove it with those.

    Jack Adrian Zappa - Contestar

    2-3 minutes in near boiling water, then 2-3 minutes on my s10+ and it was super easy to cut the glue off.

    Kipras Bielinskas - Contestar

    I have a question, if I have a pan, and I have water, and a mean to boil the water, won't it be easier and cheaper to just use that.

    Ollie Tan - Contestar

    Have you tried it? Water limits your temperature to 100℃, whereas 'pan on the stove' can easily get up to twice that. If your pan is even slightly warped, you'll have a few hot spots of direct conduction with convection everywhere else, heating things unevenly. Assuming you get the device up to temperature, how will you get it out without scratching it or burning yourself? After you're finished, do you really want to prepare food in the pan you warmed up adhesives and trace manufacturing substances in?

    .

    Boiling something form fitting to heat your device with is a lot more foolproof, and not being foolish is easier and cheaper. Direct pan heating can work, but you are leaving yourself open to a lot more problems than just taking the safe route.

    James Beegle -

  5. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Panel frontal: paso 5, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Panel frontal: paso 5, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Panel frontal: paso 5, imagen 3 de 3
    • Si el vidrio de tu pantalla está agrietado, mantén la rotura contenida y evita daños corporales durante la reparación pegando el vidrio con cinta adhesiva.

    • Coloca tiras superpuestas de cinta transparente de embalaje sobre la pantalla del iPad hasta cubrir toda la cara.

    • Esto mantendrá los fragmentos de vidrio contenidos y proporcionará integridad estructural al hacer palanca y levantar la pantalla.

    • Haz tu mejor esfuerzo para seguir el resto de la guía como se describe. Sin embargo, una vez que se rompe el vidrio, es probable que continúe agrietándose a medida que trabajas, y es posible que necesites utilizar una herramienta de palanca de metal para sacar el cristal.

    • Usa gafas de seguridad para proteger sus ojos, y ten cuidado de no dañar la pantalla LCD.

    In case of broken glass, here are some hints:

    - I prefer 3M "3350" tape; a metalized polypropylene tape with an acrylic adhesive. It's a very thin, silvery HVAC tape, not your standard duct tape.

    - Test your tape to make sure it sticks really well to the glass.

    - Use isopropyl alcohol on a paper towel to remove fingerprints and other dirt to help the tape stick to the screen.

    - Use the widest tape you can find, and apply it evenly, without trapping bubbles, without crinkles: This greatly improves your chance of success with the suction cup later.

    - Cut tape pieces long enough and go over the (rounded) edge; afterwards carefully run a scalpel alongside the edge (between bezel and glass) to trim off any excess.

    - Don't overlap edges of the tape: butt-join them instead.

    - If needed: repeat in other direction.

    - If needed: Cut square piece of tape (size of suction cup) and place it where you want to lift the glass, so that the suction cup doesn't cover any butt-joins.

    Good luck, you brave person!

    volty - Contestar

    This is the second broken screen I’ve fixed. Overlapped package tape carefully stuck to the glass and trimmed to the edges will contain most of the shards. I found that a hair dryer works for softening the glue. After getting under an edge with the suction cup I carefully followed the opening sequence using a combination of plastic picks and a single edge razor blade to get under the small pieces. It was slow going with lots of reheating with the dryer (about 45 minutes), but the taped glass came off without glass everywhere.

    Bill Roughen - Contestar

  6. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 6, imagen 1 de 1
    • Manipulándolo por la pestaña, coloca el iOpener calentado en el lateral del iPad a la izquierda del ensamblaje del botón de inicio.

    • Deja que el iOpener repose durante aproximadamente cinco minutos para ablandar el adhesivo debajo del vidrio.

    I worked at it for over 2 hours before deciding to microwave the opener for 45 seconds at a time. That seemed to do the trick.

    jaromhyde - Contestar

  7. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 7, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 7, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 7, imagen 3 de 3
    • Coloca con cuidado una ventosa hasta la mitad del lado calentado.

    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa esté completamente plana en la pantalla para obtener un sello hermético.

    • Mientras sostienes el iPad hacia abajo con una mano, jala hacia arriba la ventosa para separar ligeramente el vidrio del panel frontal de la caja trasera.

    • Ten cuidado de solo levantar el vidrio lo suficiente como para insertar una púa de apertura, y puede correr el riesgo de agrietar el vidrio.

    This step is totally pointless if you have a shattered screen. The suction cup is rendered useless. Any tips on what to do if you can't get any suction due to a shattered screen?

    robloomis - Contestar

    just pick out the glass shards if it is cracked that bad you are better off scrapping the digitizer

    echow2001 -

    for shattered screens I cover the screen with tape. I find packing tape works best for me.

    George - Contestar

  8. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 8, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 8, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 8, imagen 3 de 3
    • Mientras sostienes el vidrio con la ventosa, desliza la punta de una púa de apertura en el espacio entre el vidrio y el cuerpo del iPad.

    • No insertes la púa de apertura más profundo que el bisel negro en el costado de la pantalla. Insertar demasiado la púa puede dañar el LCD.

    • Tira de la protuberancia de plástico de la ventosa para liberar el sello de vacío y retira la ventosa del ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    you have to pull up on the suction cup harder than you might be comfortable with!

    jfaulks1 - Contestar

    thanks jfaulks1 (I did not copy and paste lol)

    iliketrains kid - Contestar

  9. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 9, imagen 1 de 1
    • Vuelve a calentar y vuelve a aplicar el iOpener.

    • Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante el procedimiento de reparación. Siempre espera al menos diez minutos antes de volver a calentar el iOpener.

    • Déjalo reposar durante unos minutos para recalentar el borde izquierdo del iPad.

  10. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 10, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 10, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 10, imagen 3 de 3
    • Coloque una segunda apertura junto con la primera y deslice la selección hacia abajo a lo largo del borde del iPad, liberando el adhesivo sobre la marcha.

    • Durante el resto del procedimiento, si encuentra una resistencia significativa a las puntas deslizantes debajo del cristal, deténgase y recaliente la sección en la que está trabajando. Forzar los picos corre el riesgo de romper el cristal.

  11. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 11, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 11, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 11, imagen 3 de 3
    • Continúa moviendo la palanca de apertura por el lateral de la pantalla para liberar el adhesivo.

    • Si la púa de apertura se atasca en el adhesivo, "enrolla" la púa a lo largo del lateral del iPad, y continúa soltando el adhesivo.

  12. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 12, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 12, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 12, imagen 3 de 3
    • Toma la primera púa que insertaste y deslízala hacia arriba en dirección a la esquina superior del iPad.

    • Si puedes ver la punta de la púa de apertura a través del vidrio frontal, no te asustes, simplemente tira de la púa un poco. Lo más probable es que todo esté bien, pero trata de evitar esto ya que puede depositar adhesivo en la parte frontal de la pantalla LCD que es difícil de limpiar.

  13. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 13, imagen 1 de 1
    • Vuelve a calentar el iOpener y colócalo en el borde superior del iPad, sobre la cámara frontal.

    • Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante el procedimiento de reparación. Espera al menos diez minutos antes de volver a calentar el iOpener. .

    • Si tienes un iOpener flexible, puedes doblarlo para calentar tanto la esquina superior izquierda como el borde superior al mismo tiempo

    I left my iOpener on the bezel the entire time I slid picks in. worked great

    jfaulks1 - Contestar

  14. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 14, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 14, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 14, imagen 3 de 3
    • Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda del iPad para separar el adhesivo.

    Gezz this is though! Cracked the glass while replacing it.

    Padraic Hoselton - Contestar

    :( sad (rip glass lol)

    iliketrains kid - Contestar

  15. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 15, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 15, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 15, imagen 3 de 3
    • Desliza el púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior del iPad, deteniéndote justo antes de llegar a la cámara.

    • La tercera imagen muestra dónde se encuentran la cámara frontal y la carcasa en el iPad.

    • Evita deslizar la púa de apertura sobre la cámara orientada hacia la parte frontal, ya que podrías untar el adhesivo sobre la lente o dañar la cámara. Los siguientes pasos detallan la mejor manera de evitar perturbar la cámara orientada hacia delante.

  16. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 16, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 16, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 16, imagen 3 de 3
    • Tira ligeramente de la púa y desliza la punta suavemente a lo largo de la parte superior de la sección de la cámara frontal del borde superior.

  17. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 17, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 17, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 17, imagen 3 de 3
    • Deja la púa de apertura en el iPad un poco más allá de la cámara frontal.

    • Toma una segunda púa e insértela a la izquierda de la cámara, donde estaba la primera púa. Deslízala hacia la esquina para cortar completamente el adhesivo restante.

    • Deja la segunda púa en su lugar para evitar que el adhesivo de esquina vuelva a sellarse a medida que se enfría.

  18. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 18, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 18, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 18, imagen 3 de 3
    • Inserta la púa anterior más profundamente en el iPad y deslízala lejos de la cámara hacia la esquina.

    Shattered my screen pretty bad here, making it so that whenever I continued to move the pick the glass separated and I couldn’t continue moving it. Be VERY gentle moving the pick; almost no force is required.

    Jasper Holden - Contestar

  19. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 19, imagen 1 de 1
    • Deja las tres púas en las esquinas del iPad para evitar volver a adherir el adhesivo del panel frontal.

    • Vuelve a calentar el iOpener y colócalo en el lado largo restante del iPad, a lo largo de los botones de volumen y bloqueo.

  20. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 20, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 20, imagen 2 de 2
    • Desliza la púa de apertura superior derecha alrededor de la esquina para liberar completamente el borde superior del vidrio.

    • Deja esta púa en su lugar para evitar que el adhesivo vuelva a sellarse, y toma una nueva púa para el siguiente paso.

  21. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 21, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 21, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 21, imagen 3 de 3
    • Inserta una nueva púa de apertura y deslízala al medio del borde derecho del iPad, liberando el adhesivo sobre la marcha.

  22. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 22, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 22, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 22, imagen 3 de 3
    • Continúa deslizando la púa a lo largo del borde derecho del iPad, liberando el adhesivo.

  23. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 23, imagen 1 de 1
    • Deja las púas de apertura en su lugar y recalienta el iOpener.

    • Recuerda que no debes sobrecalentar el iOpener, no más de una vez cada diez minutos.

    • Coloca el iOpener recalentado en el extremo del botón de inicio del iPad y déjalo reposar durante unos minutos para suavizar el adhesivo debajo del cristal.

  24. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 24, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 24, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 24, imagen 3 de 3
    • Desliza la púa inferior izquierda a la esquina inferior izquierda para cortar el adhesivo en esa esquina.

    • Deja la púa en la esquina. No te entrometas más y no retires la púa del iPad.

    • Hay bastantes cosas que evitar debajo del bisel inferior, así que estudia la tercera imagen detenidamente:

    • Antenas

    • Cavidad del botón de inicio

    • Cable digitalizador

    • Los siguientes pasos le indicarán dónde debes hacer palanca para evitar daños en estos componentes. Sólo aplica calor y haz palanca donde se te indique.

  25. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 25, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 25, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 25, imagen 3 de 3
    • Deja la púa del último paso en su lugar para evitar que el adhesivo vuelva a sellar.

    • Con una nueva púa, corta suavemente sobre la antena izquierda, deteniéndote antes del botón de inicio.

    • Sólo desliza la púa desde el borde exterior hacia el centro del iPad. No vuelvas a mover la púa hacia el borde exterior, ya que si lo haces podría dañar la antena.

    • Si necesitas deslizar la púa sobre la sección inferior más de una vez, quítala y vuelve a insertarla en el borde exterior, y deslízala hacia dentro.

    • Deja la púa en su sitio antes de seguir adelante.

  26. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 26, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 26, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 26, imagen 3 de 3
    • Inserta la punta de una última selección junto a la púa del paso anterior y deslízala debajo del botón de inicio.

    • Inserta la púa un poco más profunda y trabaje de nuevo hacia el botón de inicio.

    • Inserta la púa un poco más profunda y trabaja de nuevo hacia el botón de inicio.

    • Nuevamente, asegúrate de deslizar la uña hacia el centro del iPad sólo cuando esté completamente insertada; de lo contrario, podría dañar la antena debajo del vidrio.

  27. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 27, imagen 1 de 1
    • Recalienta y vuelve a aplicar el iOpener a la parte superior del bisel del iPad.

  28. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 28, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 28, imagen 2 de 2
    • Ten mucho cuidado con este paso. Tómate tu tiempo y asegúrate de que el adhesivo está caliente y suave, y de que has pasado por todo el adhesivo con una púa de apertura. No tengas miedo de parar y recalentar.

    • En la parte superior del iPad, opuesta al botón de inicio, deberías tener una púa alojada en cada esquina. Gira las púas para levantar ligeramente el vidrio, separando el último adhesivo a lo largo de los cuatro bordes.

    • Si encuentras una cantidad significativa de resistencia, deja de girar. Deja las púas en su sitio, recalienta y vuelve a aplicar el iOpener en las zonas problemáticas y pase una púa por el punto de pegado una vez más.

  29. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 29, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 29, imagen 2 de 2
    • Levanta lentamente y con cuidado para separar aún más el adhesivo a lo largo del borde inferior.

    Really, add a few more pics and a few more picks, see how long and difficult you can make this guide. 26 steps to get the top screen off is ridiculous.

    B. A. Computer Services - Contestar

  30. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 30, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 30, imagen 2 de 2
    • Una vez separado todo el adhesivo, abre el cristal frontal como si fuera una página de un libro y apóyalo en tu espacio de trabajo.

    • Si vuelves a utilizar el montaje del panel frontal durante el reensamblaje, deberás sustituir el adhesivo de la pantalla. Utiliza nuestra guía de aplicación de adhesivo de pantalla para volver a aplicar el adhesivo de pantalla y volver a sellar el dispositivo.

    I recommend wearing latex gloves or be sure not to put too many finger prints on the front or back of this front glass when lifting it or completing the remainder of the steps. I made this mistake and upon installing the new LCD and putting the iPad back together I realized that I left a few finger prints on the inside of the front glass. After re-securing the adhesive strips putting the iPad back together there are now unremovable fingerprints visible when the LCD is turned off. Just a recommendation on the gloves or be sure to wipe both sides of the front glass clean before putting all back together.

    Christian Screen - Contestar

  31. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 31, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 31, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 31, imagen 3 de 3
    • La carcasa de la cámara frontal puede pegarse al panel frontal; despega la carcasa y colócala de nuevo sobre la cámara para protegerla.

    • Mueve la carcasa de la cámara hacia arriba en un borde para liberarla del adhesivo y retírala del panel frontal.

    • Vuelve a colocar la carcasa de la cámara frontal delante en su hueco en la carcasa trasera.

    this didn’t happen to me BUT the glue was still sticking to the top of the glass because one pick had gone OVER the glue and the other under, so I had to pull the glue off and cut it with scissors

    jfaulks1 - Contestar

    OK this was glue, it was the tape from step 35!

    jfaulks1 - Contestar

  32. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Conjunto LCD: paso 32, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Conjunto LCD: paso 32, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Conjunto LCD: paso 32, imagen 3 de 3
    • Pequeñas piezas de cinta de espuma cubren los tornillos del superior e inferior de la mano derecha que aseguran el LCD en la carcasa trasera.

    • Usa pinzas para despegar y remover la pieza rectangular de cinta de pieza de espuma que cubre los tornillos del LCD.

    • Remueve la cubierta triangular de cinta que cubre los tornillos del LCD.

  33. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 33, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 33, imagen 2 de 2
    • El tornillo derecho del LCD puede que este cubierto con cinta adhesiva del panel frontal.

    • Si hay cinta presente, usa la punta de una espátula para retirar la cinta, exponiendo así el tornillo del LCD por debajo.

  34. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 34, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remueve los cuatro tornillos Phillips #000 de 3.9 mm que aseguran el LCD a la carcasa trasera.

    In my case the 4 screws are not the same. One is 4mm, and 3 of 3.5mm, or better 2 x 3.5mm and one 3.45mm. I put the longest one at the left edge at left of the LCD flat cable.

    mitja

    Mitja Jankovic - Contestar

    Hi Mitja. I just checked the measurements with an electronic digital caliper. I got 3.9 mm for all four screws. Are you sure it was the same model? Thanks.

    Walter Galan -

    The top left screw is longer than the other 3 - iPad mini Retina Wi-Fi.

    sandro - Contestar

    On mine the top right screw is longer

    oliver - Contestar

    top right is longer on an ipad mini 2 retina wifi 32GB

    sagert - Contestar

    ipad mini wifi no screws are longer

    iliketrains kid - Contestar

  35. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 35, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 35, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa un par de pinzas para despegar la pieza pequeña de cinta que conecta el marco del LCD a la bocina derecha.

    I wonder what does this sticker stands for…

    K8L - Contestar

  36. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 36, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 36, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 36, imagen 3 de 3
    • Una tira delgada de cinta de espuma en el marco del LCD está cubriendo una pieza de cinta que conecta el LCD a el panel debajo de él. Para continuar, tendrás que romper y despegar algo de la cinta de espuma para exponer la cinta escondida debajo.

    • Usa un par de pinzas para jalar la parte superior de la cinta de espuma que cubre el LCD.

    • Ten cuidado de no tocar el LCD con las pinzas, ya que podrías dañar el display.

    • Usa las pinzas para despegar la cinta de espuma para exponer la parte superior del LCD.

  37. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 37, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 37, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 37, imagen 3 de 3
    • Inserte la punta de un spudger entre el marco del LCD y la cinta en el superior del LCD.

    • Desliza el spudger a lo largo del espacio entre el marco del LCD y la cinta, separando la cinta del marco del LCD.

    I finished a successful replacement of my screen following these instructions. Thanks.

    Step 36 (remove tape from LCD perimeter), however, seems unnecessary. I ended up spending a lot of time separating the tape from the LCD frame only to discover it was not necessary for steps 37-44 and actually made things really difficult for step 45-46 (removing the tape near the speakers). Finally, steps 45-46 can be skipped since it is much easier to remove this tape once you flip the LCD over (Step 55).

    Kenneth Snyder - Contestar

  38. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 38, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 38, imagen 2 de 2
    • El LCD está pegado a la protección de metal del LCD que esta atrás de el a lo largo de los bordes superior, izquierdo y derecho. En orden para aflojar este adhesivo, estarás usando un plumilla para mover el LCD unos milímetros de izquierda a derecha varias veces.

    • Inserte una plumilla en el hueco entre el LCD y la carcasa trasera, cerca del lado izquierdo superior de la LCD.

    • Dobla la púa un poco, lo suficiente para hacer el hueco entre el LCD y la carcasa trasera más grande.

    I found a very simple method for removing the LCD from the metal shield. Slightly lift one of the top corners and insert a 1' piece of fishing line. Insert the line under the other top corner placing the length between the LCD and shield. Once in place, gently pull each end toward the bottom of the LCD breaking the adhesive as you go. This will make things much easier than using the picks and possibly breaking the LCD.

    bababooey - Contestar

    The fishing line trick is amazing… although i had already broken the LCD when i saw that comment. Good Learn!

    Brandon Lukasik - Contestar

    This step is what destroys my LCDs :(

    Dan Harris - Contestar

    Just destroyed my LCD as well. A red warning remarking is missing here! The LCD assembly is very fragile an cannot be bent, even slightly!!

    brauliox - Contestar

    I have broken about 10 of the 50 or so iPad minis that I have repaired. I always try to have a LCD on hand. I’ll have to try the fishing line trick!

    northstar - Contestar

    I also recommend doing step 45 first (removing the two pieces of foam tape at the bottom).

    northstar - Contestar

    I was able to do this the first time w/out damaging the LCD simply by following the instructions to the letter, slowly and carefully. The only thing I did differently was to follow Northstar’s instructions to remove the two pieces of tape at the bottom of the LCD before beginning.

    Jenny Lawson - Contestar

    I found a good way to remove the LCD without breaking it. Once you finish to clean up around the LCD just lift a bit one of the white metal backing plate and insert in the gap a plastified playing card under le LCD and slowly make your way to the center of the LCD. Repeat on the other side and the LCD will lift up intact.

    lemerise - Contestar

    nothing Brocken after

    (I did not read the comments before doing it lol)

    iliketrains kid - Contestar

  39. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 39, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 39, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 39, imagen 3 de 3
    • Inserta la plumilla en tres lugares más en el lado izquierdo del LCD y dóblalas en cada lugar, para deslizar el LCD sobre el lado derecho de la carcasa trasera.

  40. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 40, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 40, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 40, imagen 3 de 3
    • Ahora cambia a el lado derecho del LCD, y palanquea con la plumilla en varios lugares a lo largo de este lado para mover el LCD de vuelta al lado izquierdo.

    • Repite este y el paso anterior varias veces, hasta que el LCD pueda moverse de manera sencilla de izquierda a derecha.

  41. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 41, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 41, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 41, imagen 3 de 3
    • En los siguientes pasos, estarás deslizando una púa entre el LCD y la placa de soporte de metal para separar por completo el LCD del adhesivo que tiene debajo.

    • Inserte la punta de un spudger entre el marco del LCD y la placa de soporte de metal.

    • Asegúrate de colocar el spudger entre el marco del LCD y el soporte de metal, y no debajo de este soporte. Hacer palanca en el soporte lo dañará, por que esta atornillado a la carcasas trasera debajo del LCD.

  42. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 42, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 42, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 42, imagen 3 de 3
    • Empezando en el superior derecho del dispositivo, desliza el spudger entre el marco del LCD y la placa de metal, lo que va a separas el adhesivo conforme empujamos.

    • La meta es separar el adhesivo, no hacer palanca en el LCD, así que mantén la punta del spudger apuntando hacia abajo lo más que púedas para prevenir doblar el LCD.

    • Si insertar un spudger causa que la esquina del LCD se doble, repite los pasos con la plumilla para aflojar mas el adhesivo.

    These steps were hard. I was too scared that I was going to brake the LCD. Luckily I got it off! Don’t know how delicate these things are and how much force they can take.

    Padraic Hoselton - Contestar

  43. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 43, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 43, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 43, imagen 3 de 3
    • Repite el procedimiento anterior a lo largo de la parte superior del LCD.

    • Inserta la punta de una espátula entre el marco del LCD y la placa de metal y gentilmente empuja el spudger hacia adentro a través del superior del dispositivo, separando el adhesivo.

  44. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 44, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 44, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 44, imagen 3 de 3
    • Continua con el lado izquierdo del LCD, inserta la punta de un spudger entre el LCD y la placa de protección e inserta el spudger tan profundo como se pueda.

    • En este punto el LCD debe de estar flojo de su adhesivo que lo sostenía. Si no lo está, re-inserta el spudger en el lado derecho o superior para liberar completamente el LCD.

  45. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 45, imagen 1 de 1
    • Levanta el LCD unas pulgadas de la carcasa trasera para asegurarse que esta libre del adhesivo.

    When I did it I found that the adhesive sticking was mainly on the edges, so if you take a spudger and just break that adhesive carefully it will help. Be gentle lifting the lcd as it’s very breakable.

    Jasper Holden - Contestar

  46. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 46, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 46, imagen 2 de 2
    • Dos franjas anchas de cinta conectan el LCD a las bocinas.

    • Mientras sostienes el LCD con una mano, inserta la punta de un spudger en el hueco entre esta cinta y la bocina izquierda.

    • Gentilmente jala el LCD de las bocinas mientras rotas el spudger hacia afuera para separar la cinta de la bocina.

    I recommend removing these two pieces of foam tape prior to loosening and lifting the LCD.

    northstar - Contestar

  47. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 47, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 47, imagen 2 de 2
    • Inserta la punta de una espátula en el hueco entre la bocina derecha y la cinta del LCD.

    • Mientras jalas el LCD de las bocinas, rota la espátula hacia afuera, abriendo el hueco y soltando la cinta de la bocina.

  48. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 48, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 48, imagen 2 de 2
    • Voltea el LCD y déjalo reposar en la parte superior del cristal del panel frontal.

    • No intentes remover el LCD del iPad, ya que aún sigue conectado por su cable de datos.

  49. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Placa de protección del LCD: paso 49, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remueve los siguientes tornillos que aseguran la placa de protección del LCD a la carcasa trasera del iPad:

    • Dos Phillips #00 de 2.6 mm

    • Trece Phillips #00 de 1.7 mm

    • Uno adicional Phillips #00 de 1.7 mm en algunos dispositivos.

    At the iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are only 7 screws.

    sandro - Contestar

    On my iPad Mini (Gen 1 WiFi; A1432), these are not #00 screws, but #000 screws. They're much tinier than the first four screws that held the LCD tabs in place. The #00 driver sorta works, but requires a lot of force to get traction. The #000 driver works like a charm, though.

    volty - Contestar

    On my 1432 there were mixed in 4 tiny #000 screws holding the shield plate aong the right side. Looks like these can be mixed in without consequence as they are shorter anyway

    gfriedman99 - Contestar

    I have a missing plate and screws

    Keah Smith - Contestar

  50. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 50, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 50, imagen 2 de 2
    • Inserta la punta de un spudger debajo del centro de la placa protectora del LCD desde el inferior del iPad.

    • Palanquea con el spudger para liberar la placa de los lados de la carcasa trasera.

  51. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 51, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remueve la placa de protección del LCD del iPad.

    theres a lip on the rear case that prevents you from lifting this straight out, be careful to not bend the plate.

    jfaulks1 - Contestar

    Once the LCD is clear of the shield, wiggle a long plastic spudger up the center between the shield and the battery to gently bend the shield. That will help in getting it away from the sides and make it easier to come out.

    Bill Shannon - Contestar

  52. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Conector de la batería: paso 52, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remueve los tres tornillos Phillips #00 de 1.3 mm que aseguran la protección del conector a la tarjeta lógica.

    • Asegúrate de no sustituir estos tres tornillos con otros tornillos, específicamente con los tornillos que aseguran la placa de protección del LCD a la carcasa trasera del iPad. Cualquier tornillo por ligeramente mas largo puede remover los agujeros de los tornillos y resultar en daño irreparable dañando la tarjeta lógica.

    Note: These three screws are smaller than the rest of the screws holding the larger LCD shield although they look similar. If you substitute the larger screws, you will pop a screw bracket which can damage the board on both the mini original and mini 2 retina. I just wrote a blog post about how this happens: http://mendonipadrehab.com/entries/gener...

    jessabethany - Contestar

    Hi jessabethany. Thank you for the warning. I read your blog post and found it to be very informative. Thanks for adding the warning to the step. It will most definitely help others avoid any damage to the logic board. Thanks!

    Walter Galan -

    Be careful: At iPad mini retina Wi-Fi there are thw short and one longer screw! Don't mix them!

    sandro - Contestar

  53. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 53, imagen 1 de 1
    • Usa un par de pinzas para agarrar y remover la protección del conector del iPad.

  54. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 54, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 54, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico para gentilmente hacer palanca a el conector de la batería de su socket en la tarjeta lógica.

    • Ten cuidado de solo hacer palanca en el conector de la batería y no del mismo socket. Si haces palanca en el socket de la tarjeta lógica, puedes romper el conector por completo.

    Make sure you disconnect the battery. If not and ipad is still on you can have problems with the LCD backlight. To fix that problem you have to solder

    Mattis - Contestar

    I may be experiencing the backlight problem you mentioned. What connection needs to be soldered?

    Grillwrecka -

    Have an issue - heard that if you don't disconnect the battery a fuse is blown. I need help to fix the blown fuse.

    Andrew Kivell -

    There is an extensive thread in Answers about iPad mini backlight problems.Th screen stays black after a digitizer replacement.

    jessabethany -

    After unplugging the battery place a guitar pick in-between the two connections.

    While continuing to work on the iPad you may inadvertently cause the two connections to touch.

    Michael Vovaris - Contestar

    Yeah, you need to put the pick in between the connections so the battery doesn't touch the logic board connector and blow a fuse and make your backlight not turn on. You really don't want to have to solder the 2 connections together, especially if you don't know how, like me! I will use your comment's advice when working.

    WolfyHD - Contestar

    I put a piece of cellotape on the contact side of the connector and could happily forget about it while getting on with the rest of the repair.

    Rory Filer - Contestar

  55. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, LCD: paso 55, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, LCD: paso 55, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico para hacer palanca en el conector del LCD de su socket en la tarjeta lógica.

    • No hagas palanca en el IC largo que esta alado del conector, o puedes romperlo. Gentilmente haz palanca desde el lado del conector como se muestra.

    Putting the iPad back together: While plugging the LCD Connector back in, take your time finding the socket on the logic board. Do no use pressure until you are certain it is seated properly. Trust me, if you take your time you will know its seated correctly.

    Michael Vovaris - Contestar

    Does it shares the same shape/size of the LCD connector between the ipad mini wifi only WHITE and the other one ipad mini 32gb BLACK?

    muhammadbukhari10 - Contestar

  56. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 56, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 56, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 56, imagen 3 de 3
    • El LCD aún esta conectado a el resto del iPad por dos franjas anchas de cinta adhesiva que va desde el interior de la carcasa trasera hasta el frente inferior del marco del LCD.

    • Mientras sostienes el LCD con una mano, inserta la punta de un spudger entre el LCD y la cinta en el lado derecho del iPad.

    • Desliza el spudger hacia afuera, separando la cinta, mientras gentilmente levantas el LCD para jalarlo de la cinta.

    • Puede ayudar girar el spudger, para agrandar el hueco y separar el LCD de la cinta.

    Removing this tape and such to take the LCD off completely is unneccessary when replacing just the glass and digitizer, the digitizer cable is easily removed without further work to the LCD

    Dave Davidson - Contestar

    When this tape damage, how we can take a new?

    Muhammed Kilic - Contestar

    When this tape are damage, how we can order and take a new one?

    Muhammed Kilic - Contestar

    Following from Nick H’s comment about LCD removal being unnecessary - I tried that first and got my broken glass OUT of the assembly by threading it thru a limited space beneath the LCD. Later when trying to reseat the digitizer connector I gave up and removed the LCD anyhow. Not that much extra work but a LOT easier to install the digitizer and reseat the connector without having to navigate around the LCD and its cable. Removal of the tape holding the LCD was easy - there are two short lengths of rubber or foam along the bottom edge of the LCD that faces the outside world. Remove those(save them) and then _carefully_ peel up the tape; I saw some metallic looking residue underneath. Later when re-assembling everything, I put the tape back and then those two short lengths of foam.

    Rory Filer - Contestar

    on mine this tape was already loose.

    jfaulks1 - Contestar

  57. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 57, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 57, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 57, imagen 3 de 3
    • Mientras aún sostienes el LCD con una mano, muévete al lado izquierdo del iPad y repite el procedimiento anterior para separar la segunda pieza de cinta.

    • Inserte la punta de una espátula entre el marco del LCD y la cinta, y deslice hacia afuera mientras levanta el LCD gentilmente.

  58. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 58, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 58, imagen 2 de 2
    • Levanta y remueve el LCD del iPad Mini.

  59. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Conjunto del panel frontal: paso 59, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Conjunto del panel frontal: paso 59, imagen 2 de 2
    • Ten cuidado de hacer palanca solo en el conector digitalizador, y no en el socket. El socket y el conector son muy delicados y si dañas alguno, yu digitalizador no funcionará.

    • Para minimizar la fuerza en el socket, intenta hacer palanca debajo del borde pequeño en el conector, en vez de en el borde largo el cual es mostrado en estas imágenes.

    • Gentilmente haz palanca en el conector digitalizador de su socket en la tarjeta lógica.

  60. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 60, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 60, imagen 2 de 2
    • Gentilmente haz palanca en la tarjeta del cable digitalizador de su carcasa trasera.

    Be careful not to dislodge any of the surface mount components next to the connectors. This is sometimes a reason for the digitiser not working.

    Simon - Contestar

    There is adhesive holding it down, so it may take some time to get it off. It helped me to push with my spudger on the piece with the yellow text instead from the same side.

    Jasper Holden - Contestar

    I put the iOpener under the iPad to weaken the adhesive for this step.

    Nathan Lloyd - Contestar

  61. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 61, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 61, imagen 2 de 2
    • Levanta y remueve el panel frontal del iPad.

    == After step 55 ==

    Before installing your new digitizer (front panel), make sure to put the necessary bends on the new digitizer's ribbon cable. Look at the old panel that you've removed to see the bends that you'll need to make. Without doing this, once you are at the last step of laying down the digitizer, the cable may bunch-up in between the glass and the iPad's aluminum frame. Thus, it will not allow that corner to sit flush and glue down. If you didn't make the bends, you can use the tweezers at that point to situate the cable. It is just easier to do this beforehand. Do not make the bends as if you were folding paper. You run the risk of damaging the ribbon by doing so. You just want enough pressure to make the cable retain a bend. Again, look at and copy the cable from your old panel.

    Good Luck!!!!

    Mike - Contestar

    If your panel is shattered, you may want to have some canned air to get rid of all those pesky little glass pieces that fly everywhere. I used a Giottos air blaster because that is all I had at my disposal.

    Mike -

    might be better to use a vacuum for safety reasons. you really dont want glass shards all over the place

    gfriedman99 - Contestar

    If your case corners are damaged from being dropped, seal across the corners with wide packing tape, then grind them out carefully with a small motor tool. Use a corner piece from the broken screen (adhesive side upwards) as the template. Keep removing aluminium until screen piece above fits snug and flat. Remove all traces of metal filings before reassembly.

    Jennifer Fordyce - Contestar

    Good tip! Most times the corners are damaged.

    northstar -

  62. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Adherir el cable digitalizador: paso 62, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Adherir el cable digitalizador: paso 62, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Adherir el cable digitalizador: paso 62, imagen 3 de 3
    • Tu panel de reemplazo puede venir con este cable pre-adherido.

    • En el panel frontal de reemplazo, remueve la pieza pequeña de adhesivo que cubre el cable digitalizador.

    • Dobla el cable digitalizador en si mismo y presiona firmemente para asegurar el adhesivo,

    The old glue was full of tiny shards. I rubbed it all away with many Q-tips and petroleum ether. To protect the LCD I used a sheet of heavy paper. Cleaning took a lot of patience.

    Still should have listened to Mike: The digitizer ribbon cable went between the frame and the panel. It was bent too sharply. Touch worked, but the home button did not. When i tried to reopen, the glass cracked. Big disappointment, but ill try again!

    luc - Contestar

    Same here, so suspect I have the same problem, didn't see these comments until after I finished!

    Took me nearly 2 hours to remove the glass because it just shattered even more every time I used the sucker. Used IsoPropanol to clean.

    Checked all was working with the new digitiser and home button by starting iPad before sealing the glass shut, all ok.

    Stuck it all down, home button works occasionally, but also siri bleeps on it's own sometimes as if someones pressing the button. Also, if I press either side of the home button I get a reaction as if I've pressed the home button, or sometimes I get the double tap action and sometimes Siri, makes me think that there is something shorting / touching that shouldn't be, unless it's the ribbon.

    Will order another kit and give it another go shortly as the glass is sure to break when you re-open.

    Barry Tresadern -

    @Barry Tresadern

    I had the same problem with the home button acting crazy. The problem is on the new screen there are metal contacts that are exposed and they are touching the metal frame making it seem the button is being pressed. If you look on the old screen you'll see strips of tape covering these metal contacts. You can either peel them off and put them on the new screen or just use some electrical tape.

    Patrick -

    With this step, im looking for a replacement screen. I cant seem to see the same connector as the one illustrated here. Is there 2 ribbons mixed there?

    James - Contestar

    James, I think you're referring to the IC chip that most glass panels do not include. If you do not have soldering knowledge (and a lot of confidence and time) then it's crucial that you purchase a panel that has the IC chip attached, otherwise you will need to remove the old one from the broken assembly and re-solder it on to the new one - honestly not worth the time involved unless you know what you're doing.

    Katie -

    I've been able to replace a shattered screen. Took about an hour and a half. This consisted of mostly cleaning the shards. I wish there were some glue in the kit - I don't know if there is enough left from the previous screen to hold the new one. I'm likely going to use craft glue to make up the difference. Any other suggestions?

    [deleted] - Contestar

    Heating the glue with a hair dryer or heat gun helps or you can buy very thin double faced tape.

    Michael Vovaris -

    I thought that it was a successful repair and resealed the iPad and turned it back on after replacing the digitalizer and the LCD screen, yet neither the home button nor the power button are working. After holding the power button, the power will come on but just one "click" the screen does not react. I tried moving the tape around the home button from the broken digitalizer to the new digitalizer, yet neither button works. I need help ASAP, I don't want to damage the iPad screen more by leaving it unopened for extended periods of time. Any suggestions?

    James Johnson - Contestar

    the new pannel comes with a yellow tape on those contacts. Do not remove it. (or replace it !)

    ZARAGOZA - Contestar

    Yes..do not remove this tape!

    Banu -

    Yes I learned the hard way as well, be sure you leave the yellow plastic tape over the back of the home button and surrounding circuitry or put tape over this area before install. New screen installed and the home button isn't working :-(

    Ken Bauer -

    THANK YOU Patboy2008, you saved me a friendship and a lot of heartache. I was racking my brain trying to figure out why the home button was on the fritz. Siri kept interrupting, the screen would go black, then flick on, then apps would randomly open, then it wouldn't even give me enough time to punch in my passcode. It was all about those two SILLY pieces of tape. Sure enough reopened it and noticed that the new screen didn't have the two black pieces of tape the old screen had. So glad I dug it out of the trash and transferred those pieces. It works like a charm now. Oh and this was so much harder to fix than the iPhones. The hardest part is getting the front panel off and if it's broke it'll come off in the tiniest of pieces. I hard shards of glass in my fingers that you were like invisible splinters. Be careful and take your time with this one.

    iKimmy - Contestar

    Thanks for comments. Yes, do pay attention the the metal bands in the bottom frame of the front panel. DO cover a trip of electric tape on it. You will find the random moving and touching away.

    shanhaidong -

    It pays not to take the protectors off the glass panel adhesive until you have fitted the panel and turned on the ipad to test functionality a few times. (Once the adhesive sticks, it's very difficult to take the panel back off.) Also, I ended up applying two layers of electrical tape over the copper contacts on the panel before the random actions stopped. Now I am closing my third repair on the same machine. Let's hope this one sticks.

    philippschuller - Contestar

    In a kit purchased in June 2019, this operation was already done.

    Clément Marshall - Contestar

  63. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Preparación del panel frontal: paso 63, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Preparación del panel frontal: paso 63, imagen 2 de 2
    • Es buen momento para encender tu iPad y probar todas las funciones antes de sellar y colocar el display en su lugar. Asegúrate de apagar tu iPad completamente antes de continuar.

    • Si estas instalando un nuevo conjunto de panel frontal, puede que necesites la siguiente preparación:

    • Despega la larga línea de plástico claro del interior del cristal.

    • Despega cualquier cubierta azul que cubra el adhesivo alrededor del perímetro del conjunto del panel frontal.

    • Una vez removido, las bandas de adhesivo estarán expuestas. No remuevas estas soportes hasta que estés listo para instalar el conjunto de panel frontal.

    • No remuevas ninguna cubierta de cobre de la región indicada, como la cinta amarilla Kapton o cinta de aislar negra.

    • Comprueba que el panel frontal este libre de huellas dactilares y suciedad antes de instalarlo en tu dispositivo.

    I just received a new front planel and the digitizer connector is wrapped in a black electrical tape. I removed to check for the adhesive between circuit and connector but didn't see any, I re-wrapped in the original black tape which I think should be left alone. Also there was a yellow tape over the back of the home button and circuitry between the digitizer cable and home button. I removed this when I removed the blue plastic on the adhesive but I don't think your suppose to. After repair, home button doesn't work which might be because removing that tape.

    Ken Bauer - Contestar

  64. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Transfiere el imán de cobertura inteligente: paso 64, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA, Transfiere el imán de cobertura inteligente: paso 64, imagen 2 de 2
    • Antes de instalar tu nuevo panel frontal, necesitarás transferir el imán de cobertura inteligente de tu viejo panel frontal a tu nuevo panel frontal.

    • Coloca el borde de una herramienta de apertura en cada lado del magneto cerca del borde superior izquierdo en el conjunto del panel frontal.

    • Coloca cuidadosamente el borde de la herramienta de apertura derecha de plástico debajo del imán.

    • Firmemente sostén la herramienta de plástico de apertura derecha en este lugar.

    • Aprieta la herramienta de apertura de plástico izquierda debajo del imán y simultáneamente haz palanca y empújala hacia la herramienta de apertura de plástico derecha.

    • Esto necesitará un poco de fuerza ya que la cubierta del magneto inteligente esta sostenido en su lugar con un fuerte adhesivo.

    On the new front panel with the adhessive pre-installed, there are perforated area on the blue plastic you can peal away just for the magnets without exposing the rest of the adhesive.

    Ken Bauer - Contestar

    I found these come off much easier after applying heat to the area for 5 seconds.

    Korey Bennett - Contestar

    On the kit purchased in June 2019, magnets were included in the replacement part.

    Clément Marshall - Contestar

  65. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 65, imagen 1 de 1
    • Si es necesario, usa un par de pinzas para parcialmente despegar la pieza de cinta que cubre el imán de cobertura inteligente cerca de la esquina izquierda del conjunto de panel frontal.

    In the kit as of July 2019, there is an area of adhesive (separate from the edge adhesive) on the screen where you want to relocate the magnets. It is in the rough shape of the magnet, so you can see how to orient the magnet (curve parallel to the curve of the case corner). When you close up the screen, the magnets fit into the depression above where the tabs of the LCD are (the ones you remove the screws from in step 31). The magnets shouldn’t be too far away from the copper-colored rim of the interior of the screen, or they will not fit into the depression and may crack the screen when you press it to close. Definitely dry fit!

    Sara Austin - Contestar

    Hi, I’d like to know if this magnets are necessary to maintain the screen attach, if they do something beside the adhesive. Thank you for your help.

    castrofabian - Contestar

  66. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 66, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 66, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa el procedimiento descrito anteriormente para remover el imán de cobertura inteligente cerca de la esquina inferior izquierda del conjunto de panel frontal.

  67. Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 67, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 67, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo del conjunto del panel frontal de iPad Mini CDMA: paso 67, imagen 3 de 3
    • En este paso estarás transfiriendo el imán de cobertura inteligente a el NUEVO conjunto de panel frontal.

    • Usa un par de pinzas para colocar cuidadosamente el imán de cobertura inteligente en su lugar en la parte superior izquierda..

    • Repite el procedimiento con el imán de cobertura inteligente de la parte inferior izquierda.

    • Si es necesario, usa la punta de una herramienta de apertura de plástico para aplanar la pieza de cinta adherida a la parte de abajo izquierda del imán de cobertura inteligente.

    Do not forget to remove the protective film from inside of new digitizer, remove black insulating tape from bottom of old digitizer and place on new one, covering any and all exposed copper. Take your time - the repair is not hard but it is time consuming

    David D - Contestar

    Thank you for mentioning that! I don’t think I would have noticed until too late.

    ted -

    BEFORE you close everything up power up your ipad and make sure all the buttons and functions work properly, charging, rotation, home button, sleep button

    Chris Grayden - Contestar

    Step 66, it is important to put the magnets in the same Exact place and orientation or you could break the glass (again) during installation.

    Phil Fite - Contestar

    The orientation of the magnets may also be important to the devices’s ability to wake/sleep in response to the cover being opened and closed.

    ciradrak -

    No mention is made of using any adhesive during the installation of the new panel. There are gobs of adhesives for many different purposes. Is there any recommendation for re-establishing an adhesive for the new panel?

    Jim Dutton - Contestar

    Step 35b : watch for LCD white screw tabs as you pull up LCD panel so that they don't bind at the bottom and break off (definite crack)!

    Jim Dutton - Contestar

    Step 46: was easier, at least for me, to insert spudger between frame and digitizer board (left side) rather than trying to get under it from its right side.

    Jim Dutton - Contestar

    All of this & they could have simply made the connector cable on the front glass a snap on connector & cut out 60 steps of this repair.

    Gary - Contestar

    I was repairing the broken glass on my iPad. A lot of the broken glass was in small fragments along the edges which made sliding the pick underneath to loosen the glass quite difficult. Things would go well until I hit a small island of broken glass and the pick would stall as the glass wouldn’t budge. It took several re-heating cycles with the microwave heat pad and a lot of patience to break those loose. In retrospect, probably could have ignored them until the bulk of the glass was removed and then _gently & patiently_ chisel them out separately.

    Rory Filer - Contestar

    Still had ghost touch issue with the iPad mini so I ended up purchasing Kapton tape on Amazon and used it to cover the entire bottom part of the iPad mini 2 where the Home button is, not just the gold connectors as previously suggested. Apparently this is a common issue with the iPad minis where the digitizer and home button are grounded to the iPad’s chassis. Thankfully, that resolved the issues of ghost touch and my daughter’s iPad is now working like a charm. Just wished your iFixit digitizers were properly prepped with Kapton tape from the factory. Hope this helps with other iFixit customers suffering from the same issue.

    Yousef Ghalib - Contestar

    I believe I finally figured out the issue with the iPad mini. I feel like an idiot! It was improper installation. Ghosting on a the iPad mini was caused by creasing the digitizer flex incorrectly. It can NOT be allowed to bend backwards and touch the adhesive for the screen (I checked--mine and was bent backwards and creased due to it sticking to the adhesive). The flex must gently bow forward towards the LCD and not be allowed to crease. Unfortunately the digitizer is compromised and unusable. We’ll need a new digitizer but this time I wont make the same mistake

    Yousef Ghalib - Contestar

    One of the more difficult/frustrating issues I had during reassembly was the tendency of the digitizer cable to place itself between the frame & the glass. This prevented the glass from seating completely in the frame & I believe would have caused damage to the ribbon cable had I not noticed it. I had to use a flat tool to guide the ribbon cable away from the frame as I lowered the glass into place. I am not in a position to do it, but I hope a reassembly document will be added to these instructions, as it’s not simply a matter of “following the instructions in reverse order.”!!!

    kevs - Contestar

    Good tip! I replaced a digitizer myself after a shop had done it once already. Aside from new cracks, there were problems with dead spots on the screen, and the lock button would shut down but not sleep the screen. The screen I took off looked like the digitizer cable had been pinched like you noted, and I wonder if that was causing the problems.

    ted -

    If your ipad has a dented corner, you may need to trim the new glass a bit so that it fits flush. The ipad I worked on had been dented in the corner, which what cracked the screen in the first place. The dent pushed in the metal lip enough that a replacement screen would sit on top of it, so that a little too much pressure on the glass will make it crack again. A diamond-coated file will work to file off some of the glass on the corner. Full sized Leatherman multi-tools often have a diamond coating on the back side of the coarse file — it works great. Just be patient as it takes a while to grind off.

    ted - Contestar

    You Could Add One more Step: When assembling the screen it is necessary to tuck the digitizer cable back into the tablet as it wants to fold toward the outer edge and prevent the digitizer glass assembly from laying flat against the framework. You can do that with a Spudger by pushing the cabole back into the tablet as you close or seat the glass digitizer.

    Larry Bennett - Contestar

    At which step during reassembly to remove blue protective film on the adhesive is never mentioned. I did it too early and thought of preserving it with cling film which does not peel off afterwards. Don't do this. I suggest removing this stuff just before turning “the page” back on.

    Clément Marshall - Contestar

    Where can you buy the magnets? (not from ifixit)

    Emerald - Contestar

    There is no mention anywhere about ingress of dust between the cover glass and the LCD…is this a nonissue??

    Jordan Clayson - Contestar

    Just finished the digitizer replacement by buying a new one for $10 rather than pay $120 to get it repaired. Everything works great! A few tips that weren't mentioned:
    1) I used a hair dryer on low heat for 30-40 secs and it softened the adhesive enough to pry it open.
    2) If you have the wifi iPad (non-cellular), you don't have to worry about the antenna when prying, as it doesn't have one.
    3) Be sure to remove the old adhesive by pulling it off the iPad frame so your new digitizer can sit tight and flush. Most new digitizers have adhesive included (very convenient), just peel off the blue cover vinyl as your final step.
    4) Try to use something to cover the LCD screen from fingerprints and dust. I had to use a wet wipe to gently wipe down the LCD. I couldn't get every smudge off but it proved not to matter as it was not noticeable upon completion.

    Hope this helps!

    Christian Lee - Contestar

Conclusión

Para reensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

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12 comentarios

Replacement comes with glass only, Do I have to use some glue to stick it onto LCD? I doubt yellow stickers will do the job. Thank you

Dew - Contestar

I broke my LCD while doing this repair - be extremely careful when prying off broken digitizer, I got the pick a little too far in and lifted, putting pressure on the LCD. I didnt know the LCD was broken until powering on the device. Total bummer. Replacing LCD now. The stickers are garbage. Use an adhesive instead, dont even waste your time with the stickers.

crbucher - Contestar

i love this website but with the ipad mini, it would really be beneficial to have a reassembly guide because of the level of difficulty. There is a lot left up to chance. LIke the yellow tape that comes around the ribbon cable. Do we remove it or not? Some say do...the guide doesnt mention it at all because it just covers removal, not reassembly. Plus there are a few metal contacts that come covered that are not covered in the replacement digitizer.

gocaps25 - Contestar

I would add extra adhesive on the bottom and especially the right corner of any iPad mini replacement. Even with the digitizer cable folded properly there has still been a tiny gap between front panel and body. A little extra adhesive makes that go away.

gocaps25 - Contestar

A reverse order would be great as noted above. Otherwise, i have it together and powered on and it works. I have books sitting on i pad hoping adhesive will adhere. I may use the iOpener on it to warm up adhesive and let it cool again. Thank you..

Shawn Bailey - Contestar

I tried to replace the glass on my wife's IPAD but it was already very shattered. At one point when I attempted to suction cup an edge, the glass really shattered and I guess shattered the LCD panel as well when I didn't notice it. The glass panel went back on very well. But because the LCD panel was now shattered, the unit looked great but wasn't working. Great experience, but if the glass is shattered as my was, it's unlikely you will be able to repair the unit.

rusty - Contestar

It must have been pretty bad. Mine was shattered in several places around the edge and I was able to repair it. It was not as simple as just following the instructions - it took me more than 2 hours just to get the glass off - the whole repair is supposed to be a 2 hour job, LOL

Rory Filer -

Just starting an ipad mini screen replacement and I am unsure what to do on step 45 with the speaker tape. That step isn't too helpful and looking at the ipad it isn't obvious. Can anyone make it clearer for me please as I do not want to damage anything. Thanks.

Jim Russell - Contestar

Hi Jim. I don't have the original unit on me, but if you zoom into the photos, you can see a couple pieces of foam adhesive between the speakers and the LCD. I made a gif that may highlight the procedure a little better: http://imgur.com/a/AQ5Dc.

Evan Noronha -

On the question of adhesives - the one place I worried about was the digitizer circuit board. The old adhesive was not strong enough to hold it in place. I put a small drop of contact cement on the bottom side of the board and that seemed to hold it. For all other areas except the glass (i.e. mostly tape) saved everything I peeled off and put it back during the reassembly. For the glass, which came with an adhesive strip around its edge, I used the heating pad and some small plastic clamps to hold it in place while it cooled. Seemed to do the trick.

Overall these instructions are very good and they work fine provided you take your time and read them all once or twice _before_ starting to do the job.

Rory Filer - Contestar

Finish :-) Thanks to an good guide. Took 52 minutes! iPad looks New!

Ingar Jarle - Contestar

When I did this repair, I didn’t have the iOpener so I used a hairdryer. When removing the glass and any time the glue would start to get hard, I’d warm it just slightly. I didn’t have that much trouble with the glass though, it was pretty shattered at the top and I ended up having to pick the pieces of glass off one at a time with tweezers. When put the screen back on, I used the tape adhesive that came with the glass, but I warmed the edges of iPad up again to help get the glue to adhere. Haven’t had any problems with the device yet.

I agree that a reverse order addition would be helpful, but it’s not too necessary if you just scroll back up through the directions.

Keeley O'Connor - Contestar

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