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Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE

Qué necesitas

  1. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE, Calentamiento del iOpener: paso 1, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE, Calentamiento del iOpener: paso 1, imagen 2 de 2
    • Te recomendamos que limpies tu microondas antes de continuar, ya que cualquier suciedad desagradable en la parte inferior puede terminar pegado al iOpener.

    • Coloca el iOpener en el centro del microondas.

    • Para microondas giratorios: Asegúrate de que la placa gira libremente. Si el iOpener se queda atascado, puede sobrecalentarse y quemarse.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Contestar

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Contestar

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Contestar

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Contestar

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Contestar

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Contestar

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Contestar

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Contestar

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Contestar

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Contestar

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Contestar

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Contestar

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Contestar

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Contestar

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Contestar

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Contestar

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Contestar

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Contestar

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Contestar

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Contestar

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Contestar

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Contestar

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Contestar

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Contestar

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Contestar

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree - Contestar

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler - Contestar

    I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)

    Tom Weber - Contestar

    iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.

    To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.

    jharrison - Contestar

    Can’t you just use a hair curler instead?

    Aspect22 - Contestar

    A hairdryer or heat gun works, if heating is kept around 100 deg C (212 deg F - boiling point of water). But… heating this way is cumbersome. Using a hotplate, set to 100 deg C, measured carefully with a fairly inexpensive IR gun, is simpler and easier, if you can afford the hotplate (I used an old pancake griddle with a thermostat knob). It works great for phones, setting them face down for 2 minutes, then picking them up with insulated gloves - cheap, wool gloves work fine. This may require repeated reheating to continue the display removal, but its much simpler.

    Because its almost impossible to repeatedly lay an iPad/tablet on the hot plate, I propose an alternative.

    Initially lay the larger iPad/tablet, face down, for 2 min, to heat all of the adhesive surrounding the display. Lift and begin the picking process describe in your removal steps. Then lay an iOpener on the hotplate for 2 min (already set to the exact, desired temp) to bring it to working temp for the remaining operations.

    Dan Smith - Contestar

    For iPads in particular, it makes sense to construct a simple, aluminum window frame, laid on a hotplate (see my comment above) that only touches the edges of the display, heating only the adhesive underneath. This prevents general heating of the entire device. Four strips of aluminum, placed together as a frame, would be the simplest and allow variations for all devices - envision it as a pinwheel of strips, radiating outward. Use it for any size device.

    Dan Smith - Contestar

    BTW, always read all comments at each step. New, and possibly useful, suggestions appear on occasion that can be crucial.

    Dan Smith - Contestar

  2. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 2, imagen 1 de 1
    • Calienta el iOpener durante treinta segundos.

    • A lo largo del procedimiento de reparación, en cuanto el iOpener se enfríe, vuelve a calentarlo en el microondas treinta segundos más cada vez.

    • Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante la reparación. El sobrecalentamiento puede provocar que el iOpener se rompa. No intentes calentar a más de 100 ˚C (212 ˚F).

    • Nunca toques el iOpener si parece estar hinchado.

    • Si el iOpener esta todavía demasiado caliente al tacto, sigue utilizándolo mientras esperas a que se enfríe un poco más antes de recalentar. Un iOpener adecuadamente climatizado debe mantenerse caliente durante un máximo de 10 minutos.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Contestar

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Contestar

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Contestar

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Contestar

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Contestar

    I agree with this.

    Jarl Friis -

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Contestar

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Contestar

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Contestar

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Contestar

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Contestar

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Contestar

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Contestar

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Contestar

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Contestar

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Contestar

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Contestar

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - Contestar

    I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.

    Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.

    manningrl - Contestar

    You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.

    Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming

    William Draheim - Contestar

    Yeah, the iOpener didn't work for me either.... ended up using a hair dryer and that worked. The iOpener was too warm to soften the glue in my case.

    Andrés Vettori - Contestar

  3. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 3, imagen 1 de 1
    • Saca el iOpener del microondas, tomándolo por una de las esquinas planas para evitar el centro caliente.

    • El iOpener estará muy caliente, ten cuidado cuando lo manipules. Utiliza guantes de horno si es necesario.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Contestar

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Contestar

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Contestar

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Contestar

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Contestar

    If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
    I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener.

    Jarl Friis - Contestar

  4. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE, Método de calentamiento alternativo iOpener: paso 4, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE, Método de calentamiento alternativo iOpener: paso 4, imagen 2 de 2
    • Si no tienes un microondas, sigue este paso para calentar su iOpener en agua hirviendo.

    • Llena una olla o cacerola con suficiente agua para sumergir completamente el iOpener.

    • Calienta el agua hasta que hierva. Apaga el fuego.

    • Coloca un iOpener en el agua caliente durante 2-3 minutos. Asegúrate de que el iOpener esté completamente sumergido en el agua.

    • Utiliza unas pinzas para extraer el iOpener calentado del agua caliente.

    • Seca bien el iOpener con una toalla.

    • El iOpener estará muy caliente, así que ten cuidado de sujetarlo sólo por las lengüetas de los extremos.

    • Tu iOpener está listo para ser utilizado. Si necesita recalentar el iOpener, calienta el agua hasta que hierva, apaga el fuego y coloca el iOpener en el agua durante 2-3 minutos.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com - Contestar

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia - Contestar

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia - Contestar

    Even if you don't put in a ziplock bag, I found that the surface is mostly hydrophobic so drying it is very easy. I also didn't have tongs, but the bag is denser than water, so it sank and I attached clothes pins to the ends and was able to remove it with those.

    Jack Adrian Zappa - Contestar

    2-3 minutes in near boiling water, then 2-3 minutes on my s10+ and it was super easy to cut the glue off.

    Kipras Bielinskas - Contestar

    I have a question, if I have a pan, and I have water, and a mean to boil the water, won't it be easier and cheaper to just use that.

    Ollie Tan - Contestar

    Have you tried it? Water limits your temperature to 100℃, whereas 'pan on the stove' can easily get up to twice that. If your pan is even slightly warped, you'll have a few hot spots of direct conduction with convection everywhere else, heating things unevenly. Assuming you get the device up to temperature, how will you get it out without scratching it or burning yourself? After you're finished, do you really want to prepare food in the pan you warmed up adhesives and trace manufacturing substances in?

    .

    Boiling something form fitting to heat your device with is a lot more foolproof, and not being foolish is easier and cheaper. Direct pan heating can work, but you are leaving yourself open to a lot more problems than just taking the safe route.

    James Beegle -

  5. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE, Panel frontal: paso 5, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE, Panel frontal: paso 5, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE, Panel frontal: paso 5, imagen 3 de 3
    • Si el cristal de la pantalla está agrietado, mantenga la rotura contenida y evite daños corporales durante la reparación con cinta adhesiva.

    • Coloque tiras superpuestas de cinta adhesiva transparente sobre la pantalla del iPad hasta cubrir toda la cara.

    • Esto mantendrá los fragmentos de vidrio contenidos y proporcionará integridad estructural al levantar la pantalla.

    • Haz tu mejor esfuerzo para seguir el resto de la guía como se describe. Sin embargo, una vez que se rompa el vidrio, es probable que continúe agrietándose mientras trabaja, y es posible que necesite usar una herramienta de palanca de metal para sacar el vidrio.

    • Use anteojos de seguridad para proteger sus ojos y tenga cuidado de no dañar la pantalla LCD.

    If you add clear packaging tape, it will create bubbles and the suction cup will become inefficient. To me it was impossible to remove the glass with the suction cup. Since the glass was very cracked, I had to resort to some tweaking with strong tape and pull the this off.

    jfmartin67 - Contestar

    If your screen is significantly cracked to the left edge, abandon this entire setup, prepare yourself for a 5-6 hour repair, expect a lot of patience, a lot of cursing and some good old American ingenuity. The suction cup and picks will not work. You have to carefully crack the glass yourself (w/out damaging the panel underneath and carefully pull it apart from the inside to the outside edges. Use a hairdryer to soften the glue under the cracked panel along the edges. Then use an exacto-knife to separate the pieces of the glued panel from the frame body, all the way around the device. Watch out for the home button ribbon connector when using the exacto-knife. There will be glue residue left over, carefully apply some goo-gone to a small area of a paper towel and wipe gently around the frame body to loosen the glue. Then use the plastic spudger tool to scrape off the excess glue.

    The iPad repair is VERY difficult. If you are a working adult, hire a pro. This is not for the faint of heart.

    aaroncope - Contestar

    The hairdryer option was way faster and easier than the iOpener. Be VERY careful not to damage the LCD- one small mistake will cost you an extra $100!

    Mike Martin -

    but I’m not American

    Andrew Williams -

    If your digitizer is shattered, the tape will help, but you’re going to need extra picks. Or a razor blade. See below.

    Blair Miller - Contestar

    Friendly observation that the image on this step is actually of an older ipad model as the side bezels are far too big. I don't know if that matters to anybody but a noob might see it and think this manual doesn't apply to them. : )

    notalawyer - Contestar

    Thank you! Yes things like this matter so much. I successfully replaced an iPhone 6LCD&Screen from the guide. Next was my iPad 2 and the guide said nothing about the power flex cable. They were only stressing about not severing the wifi cable. I followed instructions carefully. Got the screen off and bam. Power flex severed because it was left out of the guide. I saw it in the comments after. I’ll never follow a guide here again without reading the comments. I did receive a discount code for my next purchase but it still caused a lot of inconvience.

    Haley Hodges -

    I had the same experience. My glass was cracked all the way to the left side and the suction cup would not pull the glass up. The packaging tape also didn't help. The heat caused it to lift. I finally abandoned the tape, used a heat gun aimed very carefully at each broken piece of the screen. The picks did work with patience, but I just pulled off each broken part of the glass. I also found that pulling up on one broken part while heating in front of me would let the next piece pull up. I continued heating and breaking all the way around. Do the right side last. Took about 1 hour to get it off, and another hour to clean the old glue off the frame. BTW thanks to this web site and all the comments! No way I would have done this without all the help here! I am now clean and waiting for my new digitizer. I couldn't free the battery (below), so I left it powered up, and verified it till worked before throwing away the old glass. Vince

    Vince Asbridge - Contestar

    Taping with package tape doesn't work. You'll need a very large piece of tape if you go this route.

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    Just finished successful repair. I would add this: most folks will be here because of cracked screen. This is not easy; believe the 'complex' rating on this repair. I put tape on my screen because it was badly cracked. This made the suction cup useless, because it just sucked the tape off the scree.n. I used the razor blade technique which worked great, it should be used in the demo, and a good blade should be in the kit.

    dale kingsbury - Contestar

    I thought this shouldn’t be too hard - I only had some cracks in the glass, but then at every spot I worked on, the glass turned into nothing but tons of tiny shards. I had to use the points of the tweezers plowing along only the outer edge all the way around, sometimes with a razor blade and often using a hair dryer up close (briefly, over and over). After I got every bit of glass out, I used ordinary rubbing alcohol and Q-tips but I had to rub hard and quickly 100 times on each area to slowly dissolve the glue. I only scratched the LCD once slightly with a tweezer slip. The large chucks of display held together by the packing tape needs something under it to protect the LCD while you are working.

    Robin - Contestar

    Using Goo Gone to get rid of the adhesive residue is 20 times faster than using rubbing alcohol, even if it is 91% isopropyl alcohol.

    Skipping the iOpener and using a hair blowdryer, and using Goo Gone in place of the rubbing alcohol are 2 simple changes that will make this job much much easier than the default instructions if the screen is shattered.

    Scott Walker -

    I found the hair dryer is far more effective and less dangerous than using the iopener. If you overheat the iopener you end up pulling a hot plastic bag spewing hot glycerine out of your microwave! Not fun!

    Clifford Sullivan - Contestar

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Contestar

    Packing tape won’t do anything. You need to use duct tape to prevent glass shards from spraying everywhere. If your screen is only partially cracked (mine was the top only), modify the directions and focus on the areas that aren’t cracked first. I was able to get the lower 90% of the screen off, and then worked the cracked pieces with a heat gun and metal razor spudger. The entire repair took around 3 hours, and prob 2 hours and 30 min of that was getting the shards out and pieces off. And lots of cursing. I also told my kids if they crack another screen they are out of luck. I am not doing this again.

    Janie Hughes - Contestar

  6. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 6, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 6, imagen 2 de 2
    • Manejándolo por la etiqueta, coloca el iOpener calentado en el costado del iPad a la izquierda del botón de inicio.

    • Deja que el iOpener repose durante al menos un minuto para ablandar el adhesivo debajo del vidrio.

    The iOpener doesn't work because the heat isn't strong enough. I used a hair dryer which proved to be much more efficient.

    jfmartin67 - Contestar

    The iOpener didnt work for me either. seems like it gets hot enough but it must not. I spent 30 min with the iOpener, then tried a hair dryer.

    kinchma - Contestar

    “At least a minute.” Bullshit. Get the iOpener good and hot, place it on the area you’re going to work on clear side down, and cover it with a towel. Walk away for 2 minutes. Make yourself a drink — you’ll need steady hands later.

    Blair Miller - Contestar

    I've done this with an iOpener and at least in my case, it worked fine. You may have to modify the heating instructions though, since not all microwaves are created equal.

    Jeff Suovanen - Contestar

    ii i just did this and it took a while but i figured it out it is true this thing doesnt get hot enough BUT heat it 2 times and then the 3rd time when u place it on the ipad put the ipad box on top and then maybe a second ipad on top of the box so it kinda smashes i down but not too much for it to break and then wait for it to turn warm THEN use the succion THEN the gap appears. the glue is super strong on the ipads so yea it will take some time lol

    Joel Tyson - Contestar

    Doesn't work. Perhaps include more copy on exactly how to do it?

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    The iOpener does not work. It simply it is not hard enough to soften the glue. The heat hair dryer method does not work either.

    Javier Lozada - Contestar

    The goal is simply to weaken the glue enough that you can use your suction cup to open up a tiny gap under the glass, so you can insert an opening pick and slice through the adhesive. It doesn't actually take all that much heat; the picks will do most of the work once you get them in there. iOpeners, hair dryers, heat guns all work fine in my experience—the iOpener is just a bit more foolproof because it won't get hot enough to cook the display panel underneath.

    Jeff Suovanen - Contestar

    I used iron..surprise!! yeah pretty fast tho…put a layer of fabric (towel in my case) ontop, along the edge of screen and start ironing..

    :-)

    carvelera - Contestar

    If using a hair dryer or heat gun make sure it is not too high heat. My heat gun has two settings, one 750 degree and an 1100. After using it on high I discolored the digitizer and warped the LCD slightly (only shows on pure white backgrounds). Low worked for the rest of the repair just fine. Also using a razor blade or something besides the pick works nice for the initial pry. Once you have a gap big enough, insert the pic and you’re all set.

    Robert - Contestar

    I don’t have an iOpener, my heat gun wasn’t handy. The last time I did something like this it was a 90-100 degree day, so I just put it out in the sun for a while, and it worked great. This time it’s fall, so I used a 420W halogen Light that I have for photography. (A standard heat lamp would probably work too, but might take longer.) I held it close to the light until it felt hot to the touch, just a couple minutes, then I left is sitting about 16” below the light for 5-10 minutes to sink in and warm uniformly. It worked great.

    For me, steps 8-31 were basically one step "Carefully pry off the digitizer glass with the plastic tools" took all of 30 seconds.

    Seth Childers - Contestar

    Although very hard this does work. The first time opening the ipad after buying it 8+ years ago it took about 3 times of heating the iopener. It did require an amount of pressure I did not expect but it did come open as instructed. I did add a towel and apply pressure to the iopener to make sure the heat transferred.

    hmcarbajal - Contestar

    The iOpener didn’t work for me at all, zero, it literally did nothing. I resorted to my heat gun on low and yeah you need to be super careful, but once I started the adhesive came off pretty easy.

    David Yutzy - Contestar

    I used a 2-level heat gun, too. Supposedly 707 degrees/923 degrees.

    I kept the heat gun about 1” away from the glass and used only the low setting. Even so, I did alter the digitizer pretty quickly in a few locations around the edge. It still functions fine, and you only see it under certain circumstances, so not a huge deal. But irritating. Be cautious about too much heat. It just looks like sort of a faint, polarized grid.

    Don’t be afraid to put tension on the glue and just hold it. If it is warm enough, the glue will relax under sustained tension. This isn’t a speed event. Don’t try to rush it, or you’ll break something.

    Now that those infrared surface thermometers have become so inexpensive, it would be great if someone posted a target temperature for softening the glue without damage. That would take some of the guesswork out of this process.

    Tim - Contestar

    If you heat the iOpener somewhat longer than they recommend, and get it about as hot as your hand can stand, then place it on the iPad and cover with a towel for at least 3 minutes. Then really be patient. I got a bit impatient, and took a chance and slipped a really fine “exacto-type” of blade vertically beside the suction cup as I lifted, and thankfully that worked. That made enough room to get one of the “guitar pick” wedges in. The rest went fine.

    Pete - Contestar

    I used the iOpener to soften the adhesive. I was extra careful and it took me about 90 minutes to get to Step 30. With my acquired experience I would say, it may be done in about 30 minutes. Most important: Be patient! You may have to reheat the iOpener a few times until you will be able to do Step 9. Once I had this part done, it was a lot easier. So I would say the first 60 minutes I spent on steps 1 through 9.

    marcelflueeler - Contestar

    I’ve been using a heat and isopropyl alcohol combo on iPhone screens with no problem. This specifically says “only” heat. I feel like she’s trying to tell me to keep a lid on my IA. Because I don’t know what other methods some rogue might be trying in their efforts to compromise adhesive.

    Audi Archer - Contestar

  7. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 7, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 7, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 7, imagen 3 de 3
    • Si bien el iPad se ve uniforme desde el exterior, hay componentes delicados debajo del vidrio frontal. Para evitar daños, solo calienta y haz palanca en las áreas descritas en cada paso.

    • A medida que sigas las instrucciones, ten especial cuidado para evitar hacer palanca en las siguientes áreas:

    • Cámara frontal

    • Antenas

    • Cables de pantalla

    Don't assume anything!! I thought I was pulling on the screen connector and I was pulling on an antenna component instead. Didn't ruin its connection range but I sure remember doing it and now my iPad has a little internal flaw only I'm aware of.

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    Correct me if I’m wrong but the LTE version apparently has 2 antennas on each side of the front-facing camera and it’s not shown on this post to avoid prying. I just scratched one of them following these instructions.

    Pacman - Contestar

    A note about the multiple image thumbnails - roll your mouse over them to get an animated effect, rather than clicking on them individually

    Rusty - Contestar

    I’ve been using a heat and isopropyl alcohol combo on iPhone screens with no problem. This specifically says “only” heat. I feel like she’s trying to tell me to keep a lid on my IA. Because I don’t know what other methods some rogue might be trying in their efforts to compromise adhesive.

    Audi Archer - Contestar

  8. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE, Instrucciones de Anti-Clamp: paso 8, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE, Instrucciones de Anti-Clamp: paso 8, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE, Instrucciones de Anti-Clamp: paso 8, imagen 3 de 3
    Herramienta utilizada en este paso:
    Anti-Clamp
    $24.95
    Comprar
    • Los siguientes dos pasos demuestran el Anti-Clamp, una herramienta que diseñamos para hacer el procedimiento de apertura más fácil, Si no estas usando el Anti-Clamp saltea tres pasos para un método alternativo.

    • Para instrucciones completas en como usar el Anti-Clamp, checa esta guía.

    • Jala el mango azul hacia la bisagra para activar el modo de apertura.

    • Pon un objeto debajo de tu iPad para que haya un espacio entre las ventosas.

    • Posiciona las ventosas de apertura cerca del borde izquierdo de la pantalla --una en el frente, y otra detrás.

    • Sostén firmemente la parte trasera del Anti-Clamp y presiona la ventosa superior hacia abajo para aplicar succión.

    • Si encuentras que la superficie de tu dispositivo es demasiado resbaloso para que que el Anti-Clamp se sostenga, usa cinta para crear una superficie con más agarre.

  9. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 9, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 9, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 9, imagen 3 de 3
    • Mueve la manija azul hacia adelante para bloquear los brazos.

    • Gira la manija en sentido horario 360 grados o hasta que las ventosas comiencen a estirarse.

    • Asegúrate que las ventosas permanezcan alineadas una con otra. Si comienzan a desalinearse, aflójalas levemente y realinea los brazos.

  10. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 10, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 10, imagen 2 de 2
    • Dale un minuto al adhesivo para que se suelte y deje un espacio para poder abrir.

    • Si tu pantalla no se calienta lo suficiente, puedes usar un secador de pelo para calentar a lo largo del borde izquierdo del iPad.

    • Para instrucciones sobre cómo usar un secador de pelo, revisa esta guía.

    • Inserta una púa de apertura debajo de la pantalla cuando el Anti-Clamp cree un espacio lo suficiente grande.

    • Si el Anti-Clamp no crea un suficiente hueco, aplica mas calor al área y gira el mango en sentido horario media vuelta.

    • No gires mas que media vuelta a la vez, y espera un minuto entre giros. Deja el Anti-Clamp y el tiempo hacer el trabajo por ti.

    • Salta los siguientes dos pasos.

  11. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 11, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 11, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 11, imagen 3 de 3
    • Coloca con cuidado una ventosa a la mitad del lado calentado.

    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa esté completamente plana en la pantalla para obtener un sello hermético.

    • Mientras mantienes presionado el iPad con una mano, tira de la ventosa para separar ligeramente el cristal del panel frontal de la carcasa trasera.

    • Si la pantalla de tu iPad está muy agrietada, cubrirla con una capa suave de cinta adhesiva transparente puede ayudar a que la ventosa se adhiera. Alternativamente, usa una cinta fuerte (como cinta adhesiva para conductos) y dóblala en un asa.

    In this picture above, the glass isn't cracked at all so it helps the suction cup to be effective as it is hermetic. With cracked display, it won't work.

    jfmartin67 - Contestar

    Suction cup would not work for me. No amount of heating with iOpener or hair dryer would allow even the slightest gap to form. I ended up looking at some YouTube videos and used a razor blade. I put the razor blade perpendicular to the top glass, right at the edge of the glass and pushed down until the blade went down 1/4". Then heated some more and pried up the glass enough to put in an opening pick. I spent a lot of time working with the suction cup. Glue was just too strong.

    kinchma - Contestar

    It's funny that iFixit changed the image they used. Even they themselves realized how stupid it was to try a suction cup on taped up surface. C'mon guys! You should at least make foot notes for your readers and let them know what to do if the glass is already shattered. It's a slow methodical process that involves working with a iOpener type tool. I personally have one that looks like a prison shank (lol)

    Scott S - Contestar

    Not sure what you are referring to there—I see no evidence in the document history of the photos having been changed. Suction cup + packing tape can work, but it depends how badly the glass is broken and the quality of the tape. Sometimes it takes a couple attempts. You can also skip the suction cup and try using tape alone to pull on the panel, if your tape is sticky enough. There are no guarantees though, which is why we have the disclaimer right in Step 4 that the procedure can be pretty fussy if you're working with a shattered panel. Depending on where it's broken and how badly, you're going to have to improvise.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Jeff, the change is evident from image 4, where all the surface is taped up. In this picture you show a clean not broken surface and yes, the suction cup works...

    Simone Gabbriellini -

    Ah, I see what you're saying! I can understand why you guys would assume that, but in reality the entire guide was originally photographed using an intact panel. We later added a step showing how to protect yourself if you have a shattered panel (with photos to go along with, obviously). I'm afraid it wouldn't be practical to re-shoot the entire guide every time we make a small change like that.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The suction cup is useless if your glass is shattered. Use a new, sharp razor blade, and insert it vertically between the edge of the glass and the metal back of the iPad. Don’t worry about pressing too hard — there’s a lip that stops the blade from going in too far and damaging anything. You’ll probably have to do this several times, but eventually the blade will “bite” into the edge of the glass well enough for you to pry it up. Insert a pick underneath the razor, then remove the razor and continue as directed.

    Blair Miller - Contestar

    After having to read several comments on this screen removal and the clear packing tape, I too have to agree that the tape method does not work well at all if your screen is already shattered. I combined several methods, with lots of patience to remove the screen on my iPad Air 2. What I found it very helpful was the heat gun used for paint removal. The heat gun generates a lot of concentrated heat at lower air velocity, unlike generic hair dryer, so you must be very careful not to ruin the electronics, and risk burning your hands and anything around it. My heat gun that I purchased from Home Depot had a nozzle to direct and focus the heat on a small area. That was helpful in working small area at a time. This method work thoroughly well.

    Taiji Saotome - Contestar

    It would work if you leave iopener in microwave for 1 minute.

    Don’t trust the instruction from ifixit.

    you can put iopener in microwave for 1 minute without any harm.

    Note. you have to make sure that it is in cold position before you put it into microwave.

    phongsiri nirachornkul - Contestar

    Suction cup didn’t work for me either, went the razor blade route (using an exacto knife blade) with very minimal damage to the aluminum shell. Be warned, if your screen has cracked along the edge (as it almost 100% certainly has if you’re reading this guide), the screen will continue to shatter and splinter as you make your way around the edge. That’s when having the screen taped up well will be to your advantage. There’s also a good chance you’ll have to re-insert the razor blade on the other side of a fracture and start the lifting process again, but keep going, being sure to avoid the points called out in this guide and you should be fine.

    Also, do not apply the suction cup to an area of the screen with cracks and no tape. If you’re near the edge you run the risk of brutally shattering that area of the glass if the glass gives before the suction cup.

    Micah Sledge - Contestar

    In order to get this to work for me I had to heat the IOpener to over 104 C - I needed to get the screen over 40 C before the adhesive would loosen.

    Also I had to put the ipad on a towel - the granite countertop it was on was sucking the heat out too fast.

    Jack Williams - Contestar

    This step was brutal on my nerves - read about too many people ruining their iOpener and I don’t have a heat gun. I had to keep heating the iOpener incrementally hoping I wouldn’t pop it. … but if you’re patient, persistent, and cautious, you can definitely tell when you’re seeing separation. The iOpener ended up being WAY hotter than 30 seconds was getting me - borderline scorching my hands.

    William Thompson - Contestar

    Could not loosen the adhesive using the iOpener. Had to use hair dryer.

    Erwin yi - Contestar

    As the others noted, the suction cup is useless on a cracked screen, especially if you’ve applied tape (like the instructions say you should). The screen I was working on was busted up pretty bad, I ended up removing it and then going back to remove the edge glass and adhesive. When you have a really busted screen just take your time and use a heat gun or good hot hair dryer and it will eventually come off.

    I used an iSesame tool vs a razor to pry the edge (from a previous replacement project) but again, the iOpener and suction cup are useless.

    David Yutzy - Contestar

    Thank you for the comments above. I was using the iOpener unsuccessfully, then turned to the hair dryer and heated it up for over 3 minutes. This gave me the gap I needed to insert the opening pick and begin the process. So, with patience and a hair dryer, I was able to get the digitizer off.

    0812mgr - Contestar

    You really need a lot of patience here (30-45min). But then it works. The best way was with this plastic "crowbar" to get the beginning. You really have to press hard to get in between.

    Arne Meier - Contestar

    The suction cup provided in the toolkit didn't work on anything. Tape helped, but I eventually went in through a small cracked shard to create an entry point at the bezel

    Tom Weber - Contestar

    I've passed on the iOpener as suggested in these comments and have tried to use a hairdryer. heating on high at medium speed for 1 minute then trying the suction cup. heating for another minute then using the suction cup. Been doing this for 1/2 an hour but it isn't working. Need to take a break because I'm afraid I'm going to hurt in internal components of the iPad 6 (just trying to replace a dead battery) Any suggestions ???

    Just a guy - Contestar

    LOL...i tried the pastic clear tape to hold the cracked glass then apply the hairdryer. It melted the plastic tape glue and thus making the handle with the duct tape useless and the duct tape just pulled the melted glue from the plastic packing tape up like butter. But the screen still not budging. I've tried the hair dryer for 5 mins and nothing. I've tried the iOpener and that's useless. I'm heating it up 30 secs a time. I tried 1 min. The screen is welded shut.

    brian -

  12. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 12, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 12, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 12, imagen 3 de 3
    • Coloca un púa de apertura en el espacio abierto por la ventosa.

    • No insertes la púa de apertura más profundo que el bisel negro en el costado de la pantalla. Insertar el pico demasiado lejos puede dañar la pantalla LCD.

    • Tire de la protuberancia plástica de la ventosa para liberar el sello de vacío y retire la ventosa del ensamblaje de la pantalla.

    I found it much easier to use a single edge razor blade instead of the pick. After getting that inserted, it was easy to slip the pick between the blade and the case. Disclaimer - Razor blades are very sharp and you could easily hurt yourself or your iPad if you use one.

    donprius - Contestar

    This is an amazing tip! After trying for 10 minutes to use the pick with no luck, I grabbed a small razor blade and that worked perfectly to get me started!! Thanks!!

    Ashley Garner - Contestar

    The suction cup also didn’t work to create a gap - it cracked the screen when i tried to lift (the screen was already cracked). This was after rotating between the iOpener and a microwavable hot pack for food. The iOpener was around 175 degrees, it brought the surface of the iPad to 130. I was finally able to lift the glass using a razor blade and then the picks like donprius. I continued to use the iOpener to loosen the glue around the rest of the iPad but I think a heat gun would have been more efficient.

    Marc Ducret - Contestar

    You have to heat the glue really much, or you will, as i did, crack the glass.

    Linus Grüne - Contestar

    Best bet is to mark the pick with a sharpie line on how far your maximum limit is so you don’t damage the LCD.

    Jon Snyder - Contestar

    The iOpener works well, be patient and keep reheating until you can see the screen start to give a little. I kept putting mine in the microwave and it worked faster when the iOpener was hotter. 40 second intervals did the trick for me eventually

    Jackson Taylor - Contestar

    I spent an hour trying to lift the screen of an iPad Air first gen. The trick I found was that its a combination of lifting the screen a millimetre and then wiggling a razor blade vertically in the slot between the screen and the metal frame (yes its a microscopic slot). I used a hair drier on a section of the edge of the middle of the screen as above. The middle area allows for a bit of flexibility in the rail - we’re talking 0.5mm which is just enough for the razor.

    So hit a section of the screen edge with the drier till its hot to touch, do the suction cap thing as above, insert the blade vertically and wiggle it *ever so slightly* in the slot as you don’t want to break anything. Keep repeating this until you see even the slightest rise in the screen under the cap. At this point, remove the razor and insert the blue pick. It should easily dig in and under the screen, but no further than the black border.

    Remember, small wiggly steps will avoid breaking anything. Better a number of small heat and wiggles than a lift and snap.

    Rusty - Contestar

    for those who need to open more than one iPad, the iflex is safer and more effective than a razor blade. i use it to get started then switch to a pick

    iFlex Opening Tool

    Stow - Contestar

    Yea, this suction cup cracked my glass. This made it near impossible to slide the picks around. I may try again another day, but I suspect it’s toast at this point.

    Jason Prothero - Contestar

    I should have noted the difficulty rating before thinking I could replace the battery myself. I could have saved myself the cost of replacing a cracked screen, which happened when I attempted this step. I did not want to overheat the iOpener but consequently, I could not get a pick inserted underneath the screen. (I think the glue must take a lot more heat than expected to melt.) So just a warning to more novice tinkerers—this repair wasn't the same as fiddling with screwdrivers and a million small parts.

    mlliu - Contestar

  13. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 13, imagen 1 de 1
    • Recalienta y reemplaza el iOpener.

    • Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante el procedimiento de reparación. Siempre espera al menos diez minutos antes de recalentar el iOpener.

    This says "Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener", however the iOpener itself has a warning printed upon it that says wait at least 10 minutes. And that 10 minutes warning is also mentioned in Step 2 above.

    Scott - Contestar

    Sorry about that! We fixed the text on this step. The two-minute interval was for an older version of the iOpener—the text printed on your iOpener will have the correct interval, which is indeed ten minutes. It can burst if overheated or reheated too quickly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It still says 2 Minutes up there in the warning

    Sandro Krumbein - Contestar

  14. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 14, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 14, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 14, imagen 3 de 3
    • Coloca una segunda púa de apertura junto a la primera y desliza la púa hacia abajo a lo largo del borde del iPad, liberando el adhesivo a medida que avanza.

    You guys really need to show how it's done when your iPad isn't perfect like the one pictured above.. C'mon..

    Scott S - Contestar

    This is for BATTERY REPLACEMENT not CRACKED SCREEN REPLACEMENT!!

    Corey Barcus -

    How do you slide the picks when the glass is broken? Even with the glass taped, it pulls away from the tape rather than the housing. I've just further shattered the glass with my attempts.

    chrisweiler - Contestar

    With my shattered screen, I was able to remove it using the suction cup slightly and a metal pry, had to break the edge glass some for removal also but it didn’t do damage. More layers of shipping tape helped to make the screen stay together better and come off more intact.

    Jackson Taylor - Contestar

  15. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 15, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 15, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 15, imagen 3 de 3
    • Continúa moviendo la púa de apertura hacia abajo al costado de la pantalla para liberar el adhesivo.

    • Si la púa de apertura se atasca en el adhesivo, "gira" la púa a lo largo del costado del iPad, continuando soltando el adhesivo.

    This gives a false illusion to the difficulty of these repairs when you guys make guides using perfect devices. What about devices with dinged corners? A reader is gonna slap on a new screen and shatter it the second they apply pressure thinking it will fit into a dented corner lol

    Scott S - Contestar

  16. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 16, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 16, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 16, imagen 3 de 3
    • Toma la primera herramienta que insertaste y deslízala hacia la esquina superior del iPad.

    • Si puedes ver la punta de la púa de apertura a través del vidrio frontal, no te asustes, simplemente tira de la púa un poco. Lo más probable es que todo esté bien, pero trata de evitarlo, ya que puedes depositar adhesivo en la parte frontal de la pantalla LCD que es difícil de limpiar.

    I managed to get a couple of fingerprints on the LCD.

    What's the best way to clean 'em off?

    What's the safest way?

    Mike McIntosh - Contestar

    What I’ve read, and seems to work, is gentle circular pressure with a very clean, dry microfiber cloth. Lacking that, use a TINY drop of water ON THE CLOTH, not on the LCD. Small amounts of alcohol can be used, in my experience, but only if the above don’t work, and with better results if used in small amounts and applied to the cloth, not the LCD.

    Bonnie Baxter - Contestar

    Can confirm. Microfiber with a little isopropyl worked great to clean off any adhesive or fingerprints from mine. Thanks for the tip.

    Robert -

    If you dare to use alcohol on your device, at least use isopropyl alcohol, not ethanol!!!

    Pierre-Aurélien - Contestar

  17. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 17, imagen 1 de 1
    • Vuelve a calentar el iOpener y colóquelo en el borde superior del iPad, sobre la cámara frontal.

    • Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante el procedimiento de reparación. Espera al menos diez minutos antes de recalentar el iOpener.

    • Si tienes un iOpener flexible, puedes doblarlo para calentar la esquina superior izquierda y el borde superior al mismo tiempo.

  18. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 18, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 18, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 18, imagen 3 de 3
    • Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda del iPad para separar el adhesivo.

    I broke the screen glass of my ipad just right when I moved the guitar pick towards the upperleft corner of the screen as depicted in your instructions. (Whereas my ipad screen was in perfect condition : no scratches, not broken at all...). There must be something wrong here. Be advised: move the pick towards the corner with caution !!!

    Pierre-Aurélien - Contestar

  19. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 19, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 19, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 19, imagen 3 de 3
    • Desliza la púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior del iPad, deteniéndose justo antes de llegar a la cámara.

    • La tercera imagen muestra dónde están la cámara frontal y la carcasa en el iPad.

    • Evita deslizar la púa de apertura sobre la cámara frontal, ya que puede untar adhesivo en la lente o dañar la cámara. Los siguientes pasos detallarán la mejor manera de evitar molestar a la cámara frontal.

  20. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 20, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 20, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 20, imagen 3 de 3
    • Tira de la púa ligeramente y deslice la punta suavemente a lo largo de la parte superior de la sección frontal de la cámara del borde superior.

    At this point I’d use paper tape on the margins of the screen to mask off areas where you should use caution with the pick. Its just a visual reminder not to run the picker too deep in these areas. They are: the camera lens, lower right hand side and where the two antenna are along the base. Step 6 third image highlights these areas.

    Rusty - Contestar

  21. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 21, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 21, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 21, imagen 3 de 3
    • Deja la púa de apertura en el iPad un poco más allá de la cámara frontal.

    • Toma una segunda púa e insértala a la izquierda de la cámara, y luego deslízala hacia la esquina del iPad para terminar de cortar el adhesivo en ese borde.

  22. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 22, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 22, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 22, imagen 3 de 3
    • Inserta la púa anterior más profundamente en el iPad y deslízala lejos de la cámara hacia la esquina.

  23. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 23, imagen 1 de 1
    • Deja las tres pías en las esquinas del iPad para evitar que se vuelva a adherir el adhesivo del panel frontal.

    • Vuelve a calentar el iOpener y colócalo en el lado restante del iPad, junto con los botones de volumen y bloqueo.

  24. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 24, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 24, imagen 2 de 2
    • Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior derecha del iPad, liberando el adhesivo allí.

    • Deja esta púa en su lugar para evitar que el adhesivo se vuelva a sellar, y toma una nueva selección para el siguiente paso.

  25. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 25, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 25, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 25, imagen 3 de 3
    • Inserta una púa de apertura y deslízala hacia el centro del borde derecho del iPad, liberando el adhesivo a medida que avanza.

    • Los cables de la pantalla se encuentran aproximadamente a la mitad de la parte inferior del iPad. Deja de deslizar la púa cuando obtenga ~ 4.5" desde la parte inferior del iPad.

    Why there’s such an obsession with not damaging the cables is beyond me. Be careful, so as not to damage what the cables are connected to. But the cables are part of the replacement digitizer, so if you nick or even slice through them (like I did with the one closest to the bottom) don’t worry about it.

    Blair Miller - Contestar

    Keep in mind that some people are here to open an intact display to replace internal components! In those cases, keeping the cables un-harmed is quite important ;)

    Sam Goldheart -

    My digitizer WAS ok and I was only replacing the battery I wasn't careful enough when coming around the side with the pics and got a hold of the cable just enough with the pic to pull it off the underside of the panel. The battery replacement went great other than now I have to replace the digitizer. :(

    BE CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP!!!

    Dylan Bouterse - Contestar

    And if you are replacing the digitizer, you have to reuse the fingerprint sensor home button. I sliced through mine and now I’ll not have fingerprint sensor. Each home button is matched to the main board and if switched out you will loose that sensor ability.

    David - Contestar

    Like others, I damaged my digitizer cable while doing a battery replacement. It would be a good idea to use some blue tape to mark the spots to avoid during the glue slicing procedure.

    donprius - Contestar

    I also damaaged the digitizer cable while doing a battery replacement. Use just the tip of the opening pick.

    Dean Gross - Contestar

    People need to realize iFixit routinely duplicates instructions for more than one type of repair/replacement. However, all of the comments are combined, which leads to confusion.

    laura moon - Contestar

  26. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 26, imagen 1 de 1
    • Deja las púas de apertura en su lugar y coloca el iOpener recalentado en el extremo del botón de inicio del iPad.

  27. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 27, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 27, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 27, imagen 3 de 3
    • Desliza la púa inferior izquierda hacia la esquina inferior izquierda para cortar el adhesivo en esa esquina.

    • Deja la púa en la esquina. No hagas palanca más y no quites la púa del iPad.

    • La tercera imagen muestra las dos antenas y la cavidad del botón de inicio en el cuerpo del iPad.

    • Los siguientes pasos te indicarán dónde hacer palanca para evitar daños a estos componentes. Solo aplica calor y haz palanca donde se te indique.

  28. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 28, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 28, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 28, imagen 3 de 3
    • Deja la púa del último paso en su lugar para evitar que el adhesivo se vuelva a sellar.

    • Con una nueva púa, desliza suavemente sobre la antena de la izquierda, deteniéndote antes del botón de inicio.

    • Desliza solo la púa desde el borde exterior hacia el centro del iPad. No muevas la punta hacia el borde exterior, ya que moverse en esta dirección puede dañar la antena.

    • Si necesitas deslizar la púa sobre la sección inferior más de una vez, retírala y vuelve a insertarla en el borde exterior, y deslízala hacia adentro.

    • Deja la púa en su lugar antes de continuar.

  29. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 29, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 29, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 29, imagen 3 de 3
    • Toma una nueva púa y deslízala a la derecha de la selección anterior.

    • Desliza el botón de inicio y la antena derecha usando solo la punta para quitar el adhesivo.

  30. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 30, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 30, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 30, imagen 3 de 3
    • Con el adhesivo aflojado, ahora puedes insertar la púa cerca de la esquina derecha. Desliza la púa hacia la izquierda y detente justo antes del botón de Inicio.

    • Al igual que con la antena izquierda, solo desliza desde el borde exterior hacia el centro. Invertir esta dirección puede dañar la antena.

    This step needs a BIG CAVEAT to not insert the pick far enough to damage the home button/touch ID cable, as it is DIRECTLY above where you’re directing people to insert the pick. I just ruined a ribbon cable by following this guide too closely.

    tabormeister - Contestar

    Sadly only after damaging my home button flex cable, I read your comment. There should be a big warning here as it is very easy to tear this cable.

    Bouke - Contestar

    I also damaged the home button cable. Check the placement of the cables in steps 37-44.

    Paul Klein - Contestar

  31. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 31, imagen 1 de 1
    • Vuelve a calentar y vuelve a aplicar el iOpener en el lado de control de volumen del iPad.

  32. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 32, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 32, imagen 2 de 2
    • Ten mucho cuidado con este paso. Tómate tu tiempo y asegúrate de que el adhesivo esté caliente y suave, y que haya pasado por todo el adhesivo con una púa de apertura. No tengas miedo de detenerte y recalentar.

    • En el lado del iPad opuesto a los controles de volumen, debe tener una púa alojada en cada esquina. Gira las púas para levantar ligeramente el vidrio, separando el último adhesivo a lo largo del borde del cable de la pantalla.

    • Si encuentras una cantidad significativa de resistencia, deja las púas en su lugar, vuelve a calentar y vuelve a aplicar el iOpener en las áreas problemáticas.

    You will end up having to scrape the outter ledge to remove the old screen. I bled and got glass shards everywhere. Good luck!

    Travis Dixon - Contestar

    That won't happen if you use gloves and protective glasses!

    tanner85 - Contestar

  33. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 33, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 33, imagen 2 de 2
    • Levanta lenta y suavemente para desprender aún más el adhesivo a lo largo del borde del cable de la pantalla.

    This is very tricky if the screen is cracked (which I would assume most people are replacing the screen because of a crack). Use duct tape to try and secure the shards as much as possible, but be prepared for shards flying everywhere. Search for videos on cracked screen removal, there’s a good ifixit one. Maybe they can link it here? I finally was able to get it all by using a heat gun and metal spudger/razor like the guy in the video.

    Janie Hughes - Contestar

  34. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 34, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 34, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 34, imagen 3 de 3
    • Mientras sostienes el vidrio del panel frontal, usa una púa de apertura para cortar el último adhesivo.

    • Ten mucho cuidado de no cortar ni dañar ninguno de los cables de la pantalla.

    Detailed pictures that better indicate the difference between the remaining adhesive and the two mylar cables (the very cables you are trying to avoid damaging!) would be much appreciated. On my unit the two were VERY hard to distinguish.

    dlcatftwin - Contestar

    This step does not need to be performed here. I cut this adhesive once I had removed the lcd and display cables. This makes it much easier to avoid damaging anything. Just prop the glass up on something while you perform steps 31 - 42, then cut remaining adhesive and remove.

    Robert - Contestar

    The front camera has a black bezel cover but it is attached to the broken glass digitizer. Peel it off and save it. I plan to tack glue it to the camera instead of gluing it back to the new digitizer glass. It has two alignment bumps so maybe it doesn’t need gluing to either side but I found it on the ground when it came off of the the broken digitizer. I almost tossed it as part of the broken glass.

    Robin - Contestar

  35. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 35, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 35, imagen 2 de 2
    • Una vez que se haya separado todo el adhesivo, abre el panel de cristal como una página en un libro y déjalo en tu espacio de trabajo.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, limpia los restos del adhesivo de la carcasa (y el vidrio frontal si lo estás reutilizando) con alcohol isopropílico, y reemplaza el adhesivo usando nuestra guía de aplicación de adhesivo y tiras adhesivas precortadas.

    • Es fácil pellizcar un cable flexible entre el cristal frontal y el marco del iPad durante el reensamblaje. Estáte atento a los cables flexibles y asegúrate de que se pliegan suavemente y se pliegan debajo del marco. Si los pliegues de un cable flexible se presionan por completo, puede dañarse sin posibilidad de reparación.

    my replacement digitizer has rigid flex with adhesive tape where the connectors extend. how does this “fold” back inside the frame?

    David - Contestar

    Same here. I removed the adhesive tape, but now what?

    Dvi -

    It looks like I have the same or similar question: the “hinge” part of the digitizer cables (the flap portion) looks like it is supposed to tuck into the crevice between the LCD panel and the side of the aluminum body - my replacement (from iFixit) has sticky contact on the upper side of this flap, making me think that its supposed to adhere to the side of the LCD panel, but the instructions do not make this clear - is my assumption correct?

    dlcatftwin - Contestar

    Or, does the flap adhere to the underside of the front panel’s right edge?

    dlcatftwin - Contestar

    I attempted to put this protrusion underneath the LCD, and it kept coming up above the LCD. As there were no instructions, I put it as best as I could underneath the LCD as I cannot imagine that it folds up against itself?

    Dvi - Contestar

    I tried to put it ‘inside’ the case but was not able to - at the end, I just glued it against the front glass.

    I must have done something wrong with the new home-button assembly as the fingerprint sensor does not work anymore - However, I am not going to go through that repair again so passcode it is.

    Michael Berneis - Contestar

    My screen from ifixit had the rigid flaps with adhesive also. I removed adhesive and adhered it to the new glass, it worked fine and solved the problem with the flaps not pushing down.

    Jackson Taylor - Contestar

    if there is adhesive glue on the inside of the digitizer and the top of the LCD what do you recommend to clean it.

    scprillwitz - Contestar

    Isopropyl alcohol (and certainly not ethanol!!!)

    Pierre-Aurélien -

    Don’t throw away your old screen until you take the home button off of it! My screen was shattered and I kind of have a phobia of broken glass, so I bundled it all up and threw it into the trash can immediately. Next day when I went to continue the job I was sad that my roommate had finally taken out the trash for once and my home button was halfway to the dump by then.

    Sparky - Contestar

    Cleaning with isopropyl alcohol is not really working well. I am using it with a qtip. Is there a certain way you recommend in order to actually the adhesive off?

    Brooke Parkhouse - Contestar

    Yes, the flap seemed to want to be attached to the glass, not go down the slot. All went together well, except that my home button doesn’t work. I suspect the connections wasn’t right, although I did my best to (gently but firmly) push it in. Too late to do anything about it now.

    Mussollini - Contestar

    I got my repair kit yesterday, had a go at it today on my iPad Air 1 (A1474). I’ve opened up phones before (the kind that open up easily), but first time dealing with a glued-together device. Anyway I got there, and now I’m putting things back together. I have a question regarding the pre-cut adhesive to hold the glass back on. Is it meant to be applied to the glass, or the frame?

    SHL - Contestar

    Ok never mind - I just looked at the digitizer for this iPad and saw that the adhesive is preapplied to the glass, which confirms my suspicions. Now I can proceed and bring this repair to a conclusion.

    SHL -

    And it’s done! Doing the battery calibration now, but I’m relieved that the battery is working. I did turn on the iPad prior to removing the blue strips on the adhesive to make sure it was working before committing to fix the glass in place.

    To reiterate the point, the adhesive strips go on the glass. The way they are packaged with the clear plastic makes it go very smoothly.

    There are 2 oversize pieces of plastic sandwiching the adhesive sections. These keep the strips in their original shape free of dust off until you are ready to use them. Once you remove these, there is another clear plastic strip which has an inside edge that matches the adhesive section’s inside edge. This plastic allows you to position the adhesive accurately on the glass while keeping your fingers away from it. This is especially important on the right side where the digitizer cables are. Once you remove this clear plastic, there is still the blue film with pull tabs. You can leave these on to do a power up test, then remove them. …cont

    SHL -

    … After doing the power on check, you can also check that all the buttons work, home button, camera, speakers etc. Then I turned it off (probably wasn’t necessary), removed the blue strips and pressed the glass in. For this last step I suggest lining up the left edge of the glass with its corresponding edge in the aluminum shell, and then gently pressing down on the right side. ALSO: while doing this last step, look carefully at the right side for the ribbon cables there. In my case (reusing original digitizer), they were protruding just a smidge, so I used the spudger to just nudge it a bit and they got into place, and then I pressed the right side down. I then pressed down all around the edges of the glass.

    SHL -

    quick question... if this is a replacement, why are we worrying about the digitizer cables? My glass is shattered pretty bad on the to the left of the home button where he says to work. So I can't apply suction cup there. I don't understand the need to be concerned about the cables if the digitizer is going to be trashed...

    Michael M - Contestar

    I'd like to add when at this stage and you notice some of the old black adhesive may be hanging off the digitizer DO NOT remove any of it. Wait until you have to thing fully removed. It's way too easy to tear one of the cables if you try removing it now.

    Lindsey W - Contestar

  36. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE, LCD: paso 36, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE, LCD: paso 36, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE, LCD: paso 36, imagen 3 de 3
    • Quita cualquier cinta que oculte los tornillos del LCD.

  37. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 37, imagen 1 de 1
    • Quita los cuatro tornillos Phillips que sujetan el LCD:

    • Tres tornillos de 4.0 mm

    • Un tornillo de 4.8 mm

  38. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 38, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 38, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 38, imagen 3 de 3
    • No intentes quitar completamente el LCD. Aún está conectado al iPad por varios cables en el lado del botón de inicio. Levanta sólo el lado del la cámara frontal.

    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para sacar el LCD de su hueco, justo lo necesario para agarrarlo con tus dedos.

    • Voltea el LCD del iPad como una página de un libro, levantando cerca de la cámara y girándolo sobre el lado del botón de inicio de la carcasa trasera.

    • Sé cuidadoso y fíjate en los cables del LCD al volvear la pantalla.

    • Reposa el LCD sobre su cara para acceder a los cables de la pantalla.

    • Deja el LCD en una superficie suave, limpia y sin pelusas.

    Pictures that better indicate the difference between the remaining adhesive and the two mylar cables (the very cables you are trying to avoid damaging!) would be much appreciated. On my unit the two were very hard to distinguish

    dlcatftwin - Contestar

  39. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 39, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 39, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 39, imagen 3 de 3
    • Quita el único tornillo Phillips de 2.3 mm que sujeta el conector de la batería a la placa lógica.

    • Haz un bloqueador de batería con un naipe y deslízalo por debajo del conector de la placa lógica para desconectar la batería.

    • También puedes utilizar un bloqueador de batería de iFixit. Ten mucho cuidado y no empujes el bloqueador de batería por debajo del conector con excesiva fuerza.

    • Deja el bloqueador allí para evitar que los cables del conector de la batería hagan contacto hasta que haya terminado las reparaciones.

    The could recommend me since I did not put the wedge first in the connection of the battery and it heated the logic card a couple of minutes, q´l recommend to solve it since it does not turn on

    carlos renao - Contestar

    The battery isolation pick didn’t come with my kit. I made my own using one of the regular picks and a pair of scissors.

    Blair Miller - Contestar

    Would it not be important to note that you are not really “disconnecting” the conduit of the battery from the logic board, but rather isolating the connection?

    dlcatftwin - Contestar

    @dlcatftwin I’m not sure I understand the distinction you’re making. You are fully disconnecting the battery, by opening the circuit and wedging a big insulator in there to keep it from closing again accidentally.

    Jeff Suovanen - Contestar

    Hello Jeff,

    Thank you for responding. one may regard “disconnecting” as actually unplugging or unsocketing a cable connection as actually disconnecting, like in step 37. I could picture a person tugging on the pick thinking that the battery connector actually had to be lifted away from the board.

    Probably over-thinking it! ;-)

    Regards,

    DLC

    dlcatftwin -

    @dlcatftwin 100% on point. That’s exactly why I’m reading this comment right now. I’ve never heard of a “Battery Isolation Pick” and I was trying to get the connector loose, before realizing it wasn’t coming easy and therefore reading the comments for more info.

    Ergo, there is some confusion here that should be noted in the primary instructions.

    Kyle Sankowicz -

  40. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 40, imagen 1 de 1
    • Quita los tres tornillos Phillips de 1.4 mm que sujetan el soporte del cable de la pantalla.

    The supplied screw driver bit really struggled with these screws.

    Thomas Kaye - Contestar

  41. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 41, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 41, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar suavemente el soporte del cable de la pantalla directamente desde la placa lógica.

    • El conector del cable de la pantalla está adherido a la parte inferior del soporte, por lo que no empujes el spudger demasiado debajo del soporte, o podría dañar el conector.

    My iPad Air2 is configured differently from that in these photos. The battery connector is next to the display cable connection, and the LCD/glass panel are integral, so that they lift out of the frame together.

    Doug Pulling - Contestar

  42. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 42, imagen 1 de 1
    • Quita el LCD.

  43. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE, Ensamblaje del panel frontal: paso 43, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira la cinta adhesiva que cubre el conector del cable plano del botón de inicio.

  44. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 44, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 44, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 44, imagen 3 de 3
    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar la lengüeta del conector ZIF del cable plano del botón de inicio.

    • Extrae con cuidado el cable plano del botón de inicio del conector ZIF.

    On reassembly take note of the flap lock on that connection. Sadly I failed to operate it correctly and now have a defunct home button.

    Mussollini - Contestar

  45. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 45, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 45, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 45, imagen 3 de 3
    • Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger o una uña para sacar con cuidado los dos conectores del cable digitalizador de sus enchufes.

    • Para no dañar el iPad, haz palanca sólo en los conectores, no en el zócalo de la placa lógica.

    When reversing with the new screen , this was the hardest part for me.

    The cables needs to fit under the LCD screen, and they kept going out of place when I tried to close the screen in the end.

    That meant that I had to remove the LCD again with one hand while holding the digitizer/glass with the other - all while I had already exposed the adhesives.

    OleTheill - Contestar

    for me the cables of the new screen were longer that the old one. So even if i put everithing under the lcd, the digitizer didnt close properly. After everything was put back togheter, this side of the digitizer keep popping out.

    Félix Naud - Contestar

    I do have the same problem.

    Anne -

    In step 41 - what is the name of the connector in the first picture which he is trying to open

    glen d'souza - Contestar

    It is a ZIF socket. (Zero insertion force)

    Zach -

  46. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 46, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 46, imagen 2 de 2
    Herramienta utilizada en este paso:
    Polyimide Tape
    $9.99
    Comprar
    • Retira el conjunto del panel frontal.

    • Si el cable plano del botón de inicio se pega a la carcasa trasera del iPad, no intentes forzarlo. Despégalo suavemente de la carcasa con unas pinzas y, a continuación, podrás retirar por completo el conjunto del panel frontal.

    • Si experimenta problemas de entrada táctil "fantasma" o "fantasma" con su nueva pantalla, esto puede resolverse añadiendo una capa de cinta aislante muy fina, como Cinta Kapton (poliimida), en las zonas resaltadas de la parte posterior del panel. Los paneles iFixit vienen con el aislamiento adecuado, y no deberían requerir la adición de ninguna cinta.

    • Sin el aislamiento adecuado, estas áreas de la digitalizadora pueden conectarse a tierra contra otros componentes, causando un mal funcionamiento de la entrada táctil.

    • El aislamiento no es visible a simple vista, y es diferente de las tiras de espuma de barrera contra el polvo que se encuentran en muchos iPads.

    After removing the glass, I'd suggest scraping off any remaining black adhesive off of the iPad's frame. Get every speck. This may be time consuming if you have lost glass integrity and have sticky, splintered shards around the edge of the frame, but you need the frame completely clean of adhesive before you put the new front panel down or else it won't lay correctly in the frame.

    johnjustinirvine - Contestar

    This was not as hard as I expected it. I think I was lucky since the adhesive wasn’t properly working anymore, and my display wasn’t too shattered. Took me a about 40 minutes to remove the display. Unfortunately I noticed that my battery had expanded so ordered a new one, waiting for it to arrive before I put it all back together.

    Sebastian Graus - Contestar

  47. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE, Batería: paso 47, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE, Batería: paso 47, imagen 2 de 2
    • En los siguientes pasos, utilizarás tarjetas de plástico para separar la batería, que está pegada a la carcasa trasera.

    • Es inevitable que la batería sufra alguna pequeña deformación o alabeo, pero tenga mucho cuidado de no perforarla ni delaminarla. Las baterías de iones de litio contienen sustancias químicas peligrosas y pueden incendiarse si se manipulan incorrectamente.

    • Empezando por el centro del iPad, inserte una esquina de una tarjeta de plástico debajo de la celda superior de la batería.

    Removing the battery without warping is totally avoidable!!!

    Use some isopropyl alcohol or some of iFixits adhesive remover they sell on their website. Put some on all 3 edges of the battery except the one closest to the logic board. Both solvents are non-conductive and evaporate, so be generous if you have to. Make sure you tilt the iPad upwards from where you put the adhesive. And wait 1-2 minutes in between each side. Insert one card and pry in between each side as well.

    It’s very possible to do this with one card and without warping the battery. They use this method on all of their other repairs, so not sure why this one is special. Look up other iPad or MacBook battery replacement guides on iFixit if you need more detail.

    Please don’t use the method shown in this guide!It can go very, very wrong if you warp it too much.

    Austin Martin - Contestar

  48. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 48, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 48, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 48, imagen 3 de 3
    • Retira la tarjeta y vuelva a insertarla cerca, dejando espacio suficiente para introducir todo el borde corto de la tarjeta.

    • Deja una esquina de la tarjeta debajo de la batería, cerca del centro.

  49. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 49, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 49, imagen 2 de 2
    • Desliza el borde corto de una segunda tarjeta de plástico por debajo de la celda superior de la batería, encima de la primera tarjeta de plástico.

  50. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 50, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 50, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 50, imagen 3 de 3
    • Inserta varias tarjetas adicionales entre la primera y la segunda tarjeta para crear una cuña que empezará a hacer palanca para separar la batería de la carcasa trasera.

    • No introduzcas las tarjetas por debajo o por encima de las dos tarjetas de arranque, ya que la presión añadida aumentaría el riesgo de perforar la batería.

    • Para este paso, puede utilizar tarjetas de plástico adicionales, tarjetas de crédito antiguas o caducadas, o incluso naipes.

  51. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 51, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 51, imagen 2 de 2
    • Retira las tarjetas.

  52. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 52, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 52, imagen 2 de 2
    • Vuelva a insertar una esquina de la tarjeta de plástico debajo de la celda superior de la batería, cerca del borde izquierdo del iPad.

  53. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 53, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 53, imagen 2 de 2
    • Desliza el borde corto de una segunda tarjeta de plástico por debajo de la célula de la batería y por encima de la primera tarjeta de plástico.

  54. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 54, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 54, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 54, imagen 3 de 3
    • Inserta varias tarjetas adicionales entre la primera y la segunda tarjeta para crear una cuña y haga palanca para separar esta sección de la batería de la carcasa trasera.

  55. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 55, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 55, imagen 2 de 2
    • Retira las tarjetas.

  56. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 56, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 56, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 56, imagen 3 de 3
    • Repite los pasos anteriores para calzar la esquina inferior izquierda de la celda superior de la batería.

    • Recuerda no perforar la batería. Mantén la deformación al mínimo. No arrugues ni dobles la batería.

  57. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 57, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 57, imagen 2 de 2
    • Termina de calzar la celda superior de la batería siguiendo el procedimiento anterior insertando tarjetas a lo largo del borde izquierdo de la celda superior de la batería (el borde opuesto a la placa lógica).

    • No utilices ninguna tarjeta para hacer palanca bajo la batería desde el borde superior del iPad, o podrías dañar los componentes de la carcasa superior.

  58. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 58, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 58, imagen 2 de 2
    • Retira la púa de aislamiento de la batería.

  59. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 59, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 59, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 59, imagen 3 de 3
    • Levante suavemente la celda superior de la batería desde el borde opuesto a la placa lógica y gírala hacia arriba para separarla de la carcasa trasera.

  60. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 60, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 60, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 60, imagen 3 de 3
    • Repita el procedimiento anterior para separar la segunda celda inferior de la batería de la carcasa trasera.

    • Inserta las tarjetas sólo desde el borde superior de la celda de la batería y desde el lado opuesto a la placa lógica. No utilices ninguna tarjeta para hacer palanca bajo la batería desde el borde inferior del iPad, o podrías dañar los cables planos de los altavoces, las antenas y el conector Lightning.

  61. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 61, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 61, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 61, imagen 3 de 3
    • Levanta suavemente la celda inferior de la batería desde el borde opuesto a la placa lógica y gírala hacia arriba para separarla de la carcasa trasera.

    • No intentes extraer la batería por completo todavía.

  62. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 62, imagen 1 de 2 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 62, imagen 2 de 2
    • Utiliza una púa de apertura para cortar el adhesivo directamente debajo del terminal del conector de la batería.

    • Hay un pequeño separador en la carcasa que ayuda a asentar este conector. La púa puede verse obstruida por este. Simplemente pasa la púa alrededor de cada lado del separador para cortar el adhesivo.

  63. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 63, imagen 1 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 63, imagen 2 de 3 Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 63, imagen 3 de 3
    • Coloque ambas pilas perpendiculares al iPad.

    • Despeje el separador moviendo "suavemente" la celda superior para separarla ligeramente de la carcasa trasera y, a continuación, tirando de ella hacia un lado (alejándola de la placa lógica).

    • No es necesario levantar mucho (2 ó 3 mm). Trabaja con cuidado y no ejerzas ninguna presión innecesaria sobre la placa lógica. No intentes simplemente tirar de la batería hacia arriba, o puedes dañar la placa lógica.

    In my case, the battery could not be just pulled out because the connector was fixed with a metallic pin that remained in place even after I unscrewed the screw. I didn't know about this, so I was pulling and shaking the battery until it broke free, but part of the ear remained behind the pin, impossible to remove without detaching the mother board.

    Sergey Kofanov - Contestar

    I had the same issue. The screw actually is threaded into this pin. The pin obstructs the insertion of the replacement battery and that "ear" that fit over it had to be filed away in order to fit the new battery

    Doug Pulling -

    When putting the battery back, I had to cut open the round head (between the two actual contacts) on the battery with a cutter because I could not attach it to the little pole underneath (getting it out was hard to). In other guides (see WIFI) the complete logic board is removed to get the battery out.

    Since the battery is glued anyways, I saw no use for this additional fixation (other than making it hard to repair).

    Marc Schlegel - Contestar

  64. Reemplazo de la batería del iPad Air LTE: paso 64, imagen 1 de 1
    • Retira la batería.

Conclusión

Para volver a montar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

Para un rendimiento óptimo, calibra la batería recién instalada: Cárgala al 100% y sigue cargándola durante al menos 2 horas más. A continuación, utiliza tu dispositivo hasta que se apague por falta de batería. Por último, cárgalo ininterrumpidamente al 100%.

Lleva tus residuos electrónicos a un centro de reciclaje certificado.

¿La reparación no ha ido según lo previsto? Prueba con una solución de problemas básicos, o pide ayuda a nuestra comunidad de respuestas de iPad Air.

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Scott Havard

Miembro Desde 06/27/16

49,564 Reputación

31 Guías creadas

21 comentarios

The guide says that it is Potentially Dangerous. What is potentially dangerous about this fix?

Anders Busk - Contestar

Nothing other than what's mentioned in the intro and instructions: this is a soft-shell lithium ion battery, subject to leaking toxic fumes / catching fire / exploding if you accidentally puncture or deform it too aggressively. The same is true of all batteries of this type. Treat it with respect and take appropriate precautions.

Jeff Suovanen -

What about the adhesive? Do you need more to seal it up or do you reuse the existing?

scott - Contestar

You should clean the old adhesive from the glass and chassis using isopropyl alcohol, and replace the adhesive using pre-cut adhesive strips.

Jeff Suovanen -

Very good guide, completed without any complications, thanks a bunch :)

Beninja - Contestar

Ok. Will Coconut battery show zero load cycles if a new battery is build in or are the loadcycles remembered in the iPad?

p.schacht - Contestar

Nice replacement guide -.- , this is just disassemble the battery. How on earth i put a new battery in without removing the logic board first ?

Eric Rauchfuß - Contestar

Pretty much the same way it came out—you can slide a plastic pick underneath the battery connector to lift the logic board very slightly if you need more clearance. It doesn’t take much.

Jeff Suovanen -

Very helpful, worked for disassembly and installation of replacement.

bmarie - Contestar

If you use a blowdryer to heat the back, you can remove the battery more easy. They won’t deform as much as they would in the described method, which assumes that you are going to install a new battery pack. However, many people have two broken devices that they want to turn into one working unit, as it was the case with me. So you‘ll want to avoid severing the battery that‘s good from a device that has, say, a broken screen. Be gentle, don‘t use excessive force. It works without bending the battery. Before transferring the battery, lay it on a straight flat tabletop an flatten out any wobbles and dents you made. Then reseat it in the new device.

Veganermetzgerei Hackepeter - Contestar

I wouldn’t try to re-use a soft-shell lithium-ion battery that was glued down and then pried out—no matter how little you deform it, it’s a potential fire hazard. Not worth the risk in order to save $35. If your goal is to combine two devices, leave the good battery glued to the chassis and transfer over everything else.

Jeff Suovanen -

I always use goo gone on my credit card. I Apple some goo gone to a paper towel and rub a small amount on the edge I am wedging under the battery. Reapply every time you take out the card. Clean the case with rubbing alcohol to remove any oil after the battery is removed.

mamashannon4u - Contestar

Very helpful instructions. All came apart and went back together. The hardest part was getting the glue to soften enough to get the iPad apart. My question is, why does the battery show 70% and charging. Won’t charge over 70%. Your suggestions/guidance would be most appreciated.

Kirk Meyer - Contestar

Hi Kirk,

This is probably because the new battery isn’t properly calibrated. I’ll add that missing info into the conclusion.

For optimal performance, calibrate your newly installed battery: Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours. Then use your device until it shuts off due to low battery. Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.

Arthur Shi -

My first successful repair! The batteries were swollen to high heck, and at one point in removing them, I accidentally popped one of them, releasing an acrid smelling smoke and a flash of fire. Luckily, I had a bucket of sand that I threw it in. Other than that hiccup, everything went exactly as planned. Thanks Scott, great guide!

Henry Phillips - Contestar

Used this guide to save time, because our Dozuki guide would have had me doing a complete tear down. I get it, less risk of breaking the motherboard. It does take a bit of finesse to wiggle the old battery out. Thankfully this guide helped, and between some heat and alcohol the battery came out without any trouble at all.

Menelik Seth - Contestar

Trully good ! Thank you.

Juan Miguel Hodar - Contestar

very good up to the last step. The standoff is a real pain. Should mention the tool in the kit which is a plastic pry with a slot in the middle cut out. probably intended for this step., didn’t realize until after I was done. Should include a step or two on how to put in the new battery.

hyperion - Contestar

The guide is very good, also the exchange of the battery is quite complex. The only point I struggled, was the reinstallation of the battery, since the removed battery had not a full drilling hole between the contacts.

Oliver Gentner - Contestar

Super tutoriel, j ‘ai cependant utilisé un pistolet à air chaud pour décoller l’écran impossible avec le iopener! pour décoller la batterie j’ai utilisé le spudger et une carte en partant du bas de l’ipad , impossible d’introduire une carte entre les deux batteries.

Je réutiliserai ce site pour d’autre produit.

bourdeaux2 - Contestar

Will adhesive remover (from macbook kit) work on this glue?

Alexey Gogots - Contestar

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