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iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement

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  1. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Heat the left edge: paso 1, imagen 1 de 1
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the left edge of the device for two minutes.

  2. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Screen removal information: paso 2, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Screen removal information: paso 2, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Screen removal information: paso 2, imagen 3 de 3
    • While you're waiting for the adhesive to loosen, note the following areas that are sensitive to prying:

    • Front camera

    • Antennas

    • Display cables

  3. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: paso 3, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: paso 3, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Anti-Clamp instructions: paso 3, imagen 3 de 3
    Herramienta utilizada en este paso:
    Anti-Clamp
    $24.95
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    • The next three steps demonstrate the Anti-Clamp, a tool we designed to make the opening procedure easier. If you aren't using the Anti-Clamp, skip down three steps for an alternate method.

    • For complete instructions on how to use the Anti-Clamp, check out this guide.

    • Pull the blue handle backwards to unlock the Anti-Clamp's arms.

    • Place an object under your iPad so it rests level between the suction cups.

    • Position the suction cups near the middle of the left edge—one on the top, and one on the bottom.

    • Hold the bottom of the Anti-Clamp steady and firmly press down on the top cup to apply suction.

    • If you find that the surface of your iPad is too slippery for the Anti-Clamp to hold onto, use tape to create a grippier surface.

  4. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 4, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 4, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 4, imagen 3 de 3
    • Pull the blue handle forward to lock the arms.

    • Turn the handle clockwise 360 degrees or until the cups start to stretch.

    • Make sure the suction cups remain aligned with each other. If they begin to slip out of alignment, loosen the suction cups slightly and realign the arms.

  5. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 5, imagen 1 de 2 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 5, imagen 2 de 2
    • Wait one minute to give the adhesive a chance to release and present an opening gap.

    • If your screen isn't getting hot enough, you can use a hair dryer to heat along the left edge of the iPad.

    • For complete instructions on how to use a hair dryer, check out this guide.

    • Insert an opening pick under the digitizer when the Anti-Clamp creates a large enough gap.

    • If the Anti-Clamp doesn't create a sufficient gap, apply more heat to the area and rotate the handle clockwise half a turn.

    • Don't crank more than a half a turn at a time, and wait one minute between turns. Let the Anti-Clamp and time do the work for you.

    • Skip the next step.

  6. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Insert an opening pick: paso 6, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Insert an opening pick: paso 6, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Insert an opening pick: paso 6, imagen 3 de 3
    • If your display is badly cracked, covering it with a layer of clear packing tape may allow the suction cup to adhere. Alternatively, very strong tape may be used instead of the suction cup. If all else fails, you can superglue the suction cup to the broken screen.

    • Once the screen is warm to touch, apply a suction handle to the left edge of the screen and as close to the edge as possible.

    • Lift the screen with the suction handle to create a small gap between the digitizer and the frame.

    • Insert an opening pick into the gap between the digitizer and the frame.

  7. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the left adhesive: paso 7, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the left adhesive: paso 7, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the left adhesive: paso 7, imagen 3 de 3
    • Insert a second opening pick into the gap you just created.

    • Slide the pick toward the bottom-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.

    • Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

    • Don't worry if you can see the opening pick through the digitizer—just pull the pick out. The LCD screen shouldn't be damaged, but you risk leaving behind hard-to-clean adhesive.

  8. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 8, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 8, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 8, imagen 3 de 3
    • If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad to continue separating the adhesive.

  9. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 9, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 9, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 9, imagen 3 de 3
    • Slide the first opening pick towards the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.

    • Leave the pick in the top-left corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

  10. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Heat the top edge: paso 10, imagen 1 de 1
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the top edge of the device for two minutes.

    How do you heat the iopener?

    Steve Passmore - Contestar

  11. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the top left adhesive: paso 11, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the top left adhesive: paso 11, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the top left adhesive: paso 11, imagen 3 de 3
    • Rotate the pick around the top-left corner of the device to separate the adhesive.

  12. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the top adhesive: paso 12, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the top adhesive: paso 12, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the top adhesive: paso 12, imagen 3 de 3
    • Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the device, stopping just before you reach the front camera.

    • Avoid sliding the pick over the front camera, as you may damage the lens. The following steps will show how to prevent this.

  13. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 13, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 13, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 13, imagen 3 de 3
    • Pull the pick out until only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.

    • Slide the pick above the front camera to separate the adhesive.

    • Leave the pick near the right side of the front camera before continuing.

  14. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 14, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 14, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 14, imagen 3 de 3
    • Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the top-right corner of the device to completely separate the top adhesive.

    • Leave the pick in the top-right corner to prevent the adhesive from re-sealing.

  15. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Heat the right edge: paso 15, imagen 1 de 1
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.

  16. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the top right adhesive: paso 16, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the top right adhesive: paso 16, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the top right adhesive: paso 16, imagen 3 de 3
    • Rotate the pick around the top-right corner of the device to separate the adhesive.

  17. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the right adhesive: paso 17, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the right adhesive: paso 17, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the right adhesive: paso 17, imagen 3 de 3
    • Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the iPad's right edge.

    • The display cables are located approximately halfway from the bottom of the iPad. Stop sliding once you reach three inches from the bottom of the iPad.

    There are sensitive display/digitizer cables no less than five inches from the bottom edge of the iPad. Insert the pick further down than this, or deeper than 1mm beyond this point and you risk irreparably damaging these cables.

    Three inches is much too far down this side of the iPad to use picks.

    rcrandall85 - Contestar

  18. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Heat the bottom edge: paso 18, imagen 1 de 1
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom edge of the device for two minutes.

  19. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the bottom left adhesive: paso 19, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the bottom left adhesive: paso 19, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the bottom left adhesive: paso 19, imagen 3 de 3
    • Slide the bottom-left pick to the bottom-left corner to separate the adhesive.

    • Don't fully rotate the pick around the corner, as you may damage the antenna.

    • Leave the pick in the bottom-left corner before moving to the next step.

  20. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the bottom adhesive: paso 20, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the bottom adhesive: paso 20, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the bottom adhesive: paso 20, imagen 3 de 3
    • Insert a new opening pick into the gap you just created on the bottom edge of the iPad.

    • Slide the pick over the antenna, stopping just before the home button.

    • Only slide the pick towards the home button and not away from it, as you may damage the antenna.

    • If you need to slide the pick over this section again, remove and re-insert it at the bottom-left corner.

    • Leave the pick to the left of the home button before continuing.

  21. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 21, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 21, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 21, imagen 3 de 3
    • Insert an opening pick into the gap you just created.

    • Slide the pick underneath the home button and towards the bottom-right corner, making sure only the tip is between the digitizer and the frame.

    • Only insert the pick up to 1 mm to avoid damaging the right antenna.

  22. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 22, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 22, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 22, imagen 3 de 3
    • Re-insert the pick and slide it towards the home button to completely separate the bottom adhesive.

    • Only slide the pick towards the home button and not away from it, as you may damage the antenna.

    • If you need to slide the pick over this section again, remove and re-insert it at the bottom-right corner.

    • Leave the pick to the right of the home button before continuing.

  23. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Heat the right edge: paso 23, imagen 1 de 1
    • Heat an iOpener and apply it to the right edge of the device for two minutes.

  24. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 24, imagen 1 de 2 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 24, imagen 2 de 2
    • Be very careful with this step. Take your time, ensure the adhesive is hot and soft, and make sure you separated all of the adhesive with a pick. Don't be afraid to stop and reheat.

    • Twist the two opening picks on the left corners of the iPad to lift the digitizer slightly, separating the the last of the adhesive in the process.

    • If there's a significant amount of resistance, reheat the edges and work along them with an opening pick.

  25. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 25, imagen 1 de 2 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 25, imagen 2 de 2
    • Lift the left edge of the digitizer upwards to further separate the adhesive along the right edge of the iPad.

  26. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the right adhesive: paso 26, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the right adhesive: paso 26, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Separate the right adhesive: paso 26, imagen 3 de 3
    • While supporting the digitizer, slide an opening pick between the two display cables to separate the last of the adhesive.

  27. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 27, imagen 1 de 2 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 27, imagen 2 de 2
    • Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the digitizer like a book and rest it parallel to the iPad.

    • During reassembly, clean the remaining adhesive from the frame—and the digitizer if you're re-using it—with isopropyl alcohol. Replace the adhesive with our adhesive strips or pre-cut adhesive cards.

    • Be mindful of the display cables when reassembling the device. Make sure they are folded properly underneath the LCD screen to prevent any damage.

    While reassembling, REALLY make sure the display cables and the home button cable won't be folded / bent while closing the digitizer. I'm not exactly sure what I did, but I broke the home button and touch ID since I bent the home button cable to the point that it broke. These ribbon cables are SUPER fragile.

    op_ - Contestar

  28. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, LCD: paso 28, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, LCD: paso 28, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, LCD: paso 28, imagen 3 de 3
    • Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.

  29. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 29, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the four Phillips #00 4.3 mm screws securing the LCD.

    Both of the iPad 6th gen models i have seen so for (note they were cellular also) had the LCD secured with a grey silicone kind of adhesive in each corner under the screws. So you can’t just lift the LCD as you normally would after removing screws, it would break. I found you could pick at the corner closest to the rear camera easiest, slightly lift that corner and gently separate the other side next to the headphone jack. Then while supporting the LCD , lever the other end free with a up-and-down motion making slight progress each time.

    Anvil Electronics - Contestar

    I found the same thing on my 32GB wifi only ipad. Was unable to lift the screen off once I’d removed the screws so followed the instructions above and gently prized the screen up from the top left-hand screw bracket and it came away. Then moved onto the top right hand one.

    mann134 - Contestar

    One YouTube video said to dig all that glue out. I didn’t and it seems to not hurt to leave it there but you do have to break free from it.

    Robin - Contestar

    On my iPad 6, there were small rubber tabs covering the two screws on the front camera side. I carefully held them out of place with tweezers while unscrewing the screws.

    Martin Winter - Contestar

  30. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 30, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 30, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 30, imagen 3 de 3
    • Do not attempt to fully remove the LCD. It is still connected to the iPad by several cables at the home button end. Lift only from the front-facing camera end.

    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers. There may be glue around the screw holes that needs to be cut with a knife.

    • Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.

    • Be gentle and keep an eye on the LCD cables as you flip the display over.

    • Lay the LCD on its face to allow access to the display cables.

    • Set the LCD down on a soft, clean, lint-free surface.

    When you replace the LCD be sure to make sure it is screwed in fully. It is easy not, especially on the cornet where the digitizer cables are. The LCD is very sensitive and if you bend it then it can stop working. I was just pressing the digitized in place at the end of a repair and the screen was covered in white lines.

    hugh - Contestar

    I have no idea of what the logic board looks like !!!

    HenryFMora - Contestar

  31. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Battery connector information: paso 31, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Battery connector information: paso 31, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement, Battery connector information: paso 31, imagen 3 de 3
    • These photos show what the battery connector looks like underneath the logic board. Use these photos as a reference while you safely disconnect the battery.

    • Notice that the battery connector has cantilever springs on the logic board that press against the battery contact pads. Since both the logic board and battery are glued down, you'll need to slide something thin and flexible between the contact points to disconnect the battery.

  32. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 32, imagen 1 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 32, imagen 2 de 3 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 32, imagen 3 de 3
    • Remove the single 2.3 mm Phillips #000 screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.

    • To reduce the risk of a short, you can use a battery isolation pick to disconnect the battery.

    • Slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board's battery connector at a 35 degree angle.

    • Don't push the battery blocker underneath the connector with excessive force. If you're having trouble fitting the battery blocker underneath the logic board, you can try using a playing card to disconnect the battery instead.

    • The battery blocker or playing card ideally should slide under the logic board without encountering any blockages. After insertion, it should rest at a 15 degree angle.

    • Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.

    If you insert a regular pick without a gap then you can damage this connector and will need a new motherboard. If in doubt just insert into the left corner enough to raise it a tiny bit. Arguably, if you are not sure, then it is safer just power off and don’t power back on until everything is fully connected. A photo of how this connector looks with its cover off would really help for people that have not seen this type of battery connector before. You just need to get it to lift a tiny bit, Do not try to slide anything under the contacts….

    hugh - Contestar

    I bumped this darn thing several times, it was twisted and skewed making me freak out but the iPad still works. I am thinking you should pull it out and put the screw back in right after the LCD is removed. Then use it again just before putting the LCD screen back in. The pick is sticking out there waitng to be be bumped.

    Robin - Contestar

    Hi Robin,

    Unfortunately, there is no easy way to pull the battery connector out of the logic board. If you try to pry this connector off, you will irreparably damage it. The easiest solution is to insert the battery blocker in-between to cut the power.

    Arthur Shi -

    The battery isolation pick or battery blocker is an outdated way of isolating the battery, as you risk damaging the battery pins underneath the logic board.

    So what is the new method?

    Wil Thieme - Contestar

    This is my question as well. Seems like this phrase contradicts the instructions. Confusing. Any reply?

    Melissa Hoffman -

    We are currently working on a better isolation procedure! In the meantime, I’ve updated the warning to hopefully clarify the issue.

    Arthur Shi -

    Why do you need to “To reduce the risk of a short”? There does not seem to by any risk of a “short” in this process. I can see other reasons for disconnecting the battery. I am an electrical engineer so I would appreciate a professional grade answer to this question.

    Rumboogy - Contestar

    I’ll give it a shot!

    When you remove the screw, it doesn’t disconnect the battery, as the connector uses spring contacts to touch the battery pads.

    If you leave the battery connected, it leaves the logic board energized. As there are many exposed traces and SMT components on the logic board, there is a chance that you accidentally bridge a trace with a metal tool, resulting damage. In addition, the display connector contains tiny pins, and the pinout is such that if you pry the connector from an energized logic board, there is a chance that a voltage rail pin may accidentally touch something it shouldn’t, blowing out the backlight circuitry.

    Arthur Shi -

    My battery was dead when i did the repair. Did not really need to perform this step

    Igor Kapitanker - Contestar

    Take a waterproof playing card, cut out the shape of the battery blocker and slide that under. Battery blocked and pins not at risk of damage. Got that from a YouTube video made by a microsolder repair tech fixing the damage caused by jamming a blocker in between the contacts.

    Melody Fraysier - Contestar

    Thanks for the tip Melody! I’ve updated the instructions to include the playing card method.

    Arthur Shi -

    I could not for the life of me get the playing card in there, but my iPad was turned off, so I decided to ‘risk’ a short, instead of potentially damaging the battery connectors by jamming the card in there as hard as possible. My repair went fine, no short, however I realized AFTER closing everything up that I forgot to put the battery screw back in. Really hoping this doesn’t become an issue long term, because I don’t want to pry this brand new screen off just to put the battery in.

    Janie Hughes - Contestar

    Let us know! I wasn't able to use the screw again after removing the battery blocker. Now my iPad turns off and on every so many minutes and when it restarts it's 1% and then shows actual charge.

    Martin Hinojosa -

    When you come to screw this back together, do not overestimate how little force it takes to strip the thread on this #000 screw. I did, and I now I can't screw this back down and have the problem where the iPad restarts every 3 mins 20 sec after you turn it on due to a poor connection here. I've used card to pack this out so the LCD puts a little clamping force on the terminal once you screw it back in, but it's not really enough so the iPad still suddenly restarts occasionally.

    Rory Condon - Contestar

    I use a small screwdriver and pry underneath that brown bracket from the top edge by the camera (with the elongated metal cover removed of course) all the way before the battery, then lift up just enough for me to unhinged the battery out of the secure post. I don't know why Apple has to go through ALL THIS just to connect the battery since there is a small screw AND ADHESIVE securing it anyway. Nonetheless the whole job (replacing the lcd screen and battery was a major pain in the neck!

    80s Guy - Contestar

  33. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 33, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the three 1.4 mm Phillips #000 screws from the display cable bracket.

    I believe these are also Phillips #00, not Phillips #000.

    Kevin Chatterton II - Contestar

    I lost a 1.4mm screw where can I buy these small screws and how big are they? 1.4mm x? flared or flat head

    ferdinando.gregis@gmail.com - Contestar

    Is this part important? It seems like I lost it.

    Will - Contestar

    You don't have to remove any of this when replacing the battery but doing so will make the job easier and can prevent from accidentally knocking the adjacent cables.

    80s Guy - Contestar

  34. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 34, imagen 1 de 2 iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 34, imagen 2 de 2
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to gently pry the display cable bracket straight up from the logic board.

    • The display cable connector is adhered to the underside of the bracket, so don’t push the spudger too far under the bracket, or you may damage the connector.

  35. iPad 6 Wi-Fi LCD Replacement: paso 35, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remove the LCD.

Conclusión

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

21 personas más completaron esta guía.

Sam Goldheart

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11 comentarios

No comments…. No one is brave enough to attempt this :)

Tal Glazer - Contestar

I tried to replace the LCD with the iPad AIR 1 LCD and is NOT compatible. It fits and the connector is the same but shows just like tv static noise.

nazareno valentini - Contestar

I have same issue, but with LCD iPad 5, some idea to make it compatible.

Luis Prieto -

I replaced the front screen and now the number 9 on the passcode keypad isn’t working. I don’t get it.

Richard Lombardo - Contestar

I’m having the same issue! Different numbers, but same issue. Just certain sections of the screen won’t respond to touch.

Adriane Zaic -

I did this (screen replacement) on my iPad 6 LTE about a month ago. Was wicked difficult because my the screen was completely shattered and removing all of the shards was, well, a major PITA. It wasn’t all that bad otherwise as long as you TAKE YOUR TIME getting it apart in the first place. The only real issue I had otherwise was getting it back together with new adhesive strips because the screen doesn’t set on top straight down. You have to almost put one side down with the screen at an angle then lay it down but because of the adhesive strips, you can’t lay it down then adjust it. So that was not fun. Otherwise it wasn’t all that bad IF you are like me and savvy with electronics repair. *** also, once back together and fired up, I have some dead spots where there is zero registration of any touch on the screen. No clue as to why, and it’s frustrating because of the cost of these things and the replacement parts. Better than no usable screen I guess.

Please excuse any typos should you encounter any.

Bryan Purvis - Contestar

Hi Bryan,

If you haven’t yet, I would suggest checking two things. It sounds like either the digitizer cable may be having bad connectivity, or the digitizer may be shorting on something. Check, clean, and re-seat all of your display cable connectors as well as making sure the connectors have no debris. What is this (possibly conductive) gray foam adhesive called and where. Maybe that will remove the dead spots.

Arthur Shi -

This was extremely difficult! But it was a little easier for me as I am an IT professional. Some helpful pro tips: definitely spend time just heating the adhesives over a period of a couple of days. The hardest part of the repair was separating the broken screen from the rest of the ipad. On re-assembly, check to make sure that the home button and touch are functioning properly before putting on new adhesives. This way you can correct any mistakes. Otherwise, you will have to undo the work you just did. Take your time, don’t rush so that you don’t make mistakes or break anything. The guide is very helpful and I was able to repair my ipad 6th generation.

Kevin

Kevin Godfrey - Contestar

Ugh. This has been a PITA. I damaged the connector for lcd screen. bought replacement screen and now won’t work. HELP! Do I need to remove the old heat shield and attach it to the new lcd? What was I thinking?

Tera Virgin - Contestar

Ive used 3 brand new LCDs and can’t get any of them to show a picture, when i plug in the old broken one it lights up just fine but is shattered beyond use. im starting to wonder if you can’t just replace the LCD without some sort of trick that only apple knows about

Jessica Pickering - Contestar

at least you have some dead spots. I just replaced LCD and digitizer. LCD was fine except I threw the LCD cable bracket away because I thought it came with the new one as it was attached to the old one. Needless to say I have no LCD cable bracket. The digitizer does not respond at all though and LCD screen works.

Jacob Fulford - Contestar

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