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Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi

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  1. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, Calentamiento del iOpener: paso 1, imagen 1 de 2 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, Calentamiento del iOpener: paso 1, imagen 2 de 2
    • Te recomendamos que limpies tu microondas antes de continuar, ya que cualquier suciedad desagradable en la parte inferior puede terminar pegado al iOpener.

    • Coloca el iOpener en el centro del microondas.

    • Para microondas giratorios: Asegúrate de que la placa gira libremente. Si el iOpener se queda atascado, puede sobrecalentarse y quemarse.

  2. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 2, imagen 1 de 1
    • Calienta el iOpener durante treinta segundos.

    • A lo largo del procedimiento de reparación, en cuanto el iOpener se enfríe, vuelve a calentarlo en el microondas treinta segundos más cada vez.

    • Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante la reparación. El sobrecalentamiento puede provocar que el iOpener se rompa. No intentes calentar a más de 100 ˚C (212 ˚F).

    • Nunca toques el iOpener si parece estar hinchado.

    • Si el iOpener esta todavía demasiado caliente al tacto, sigue utilizándolo mientras esperas a que se enfríe un poco más antes de recalentar. Un iOpener adecuadamente climatizado debe mantenerse caliente durante un máximo de 10 minutos.

  3. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 3, imagen 1 de 1
    • Saca el iOpener del microondas, tomándolo por una de las esquinas planas para evitar el centro caliente.

    • El iOpener estará muy caliente, ten cuidado cuando lo manipules. Utiliza guantes de horno si es necesario.

  4. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, Método de calentamiento alternativo iOpener: paso 4, imagen 1 de 2 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, Método de calentamiento alternativo iOpener: paso 4, imagen 2 de 2
    • Si no tienes un microondas, sigue este paso para calentar su iOpener en agua hirviendo.

    • Llena una olla o cacerola con suficiente agua para sumergir completamente el iOpener.

    • Calienta el agua hasta que hierva. Apaga el fuego.

    • Coloca un iOpener en el agua caliente durante 2-3 minutos. Asegúrate de que el iOpener esté completamente sumergido en el agua.

    • Utiliza unas pinzas para extraer el iOpener calentado del agua caliente.

    • Seca bien el iOpener con una toalla.

    • El iOpener estará muy caliente, así que ten cuidado de sujetarlo sólo por las lengüetas de los extremos.

    • Tu iOpener está listo para ser utilizado. Si necesita recalentar el iOpener, calienta el agua hasta que hierva, apaga el fuego y coloca el iOpener en el agua durante 2-3 minutos.

  5. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, Panel frontal: paso 5, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, Panel frontal: paso 5, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, Panel frontal: paso 5, imagen 3 de 3
    • Si el cristal de la pantalla está agrietado, mantenga la rotura contenida y evite daños corporales durante la reparación con cinta adhesiva.

    • Coloque tiras superpuestas de cinta adhesiva transparente sobre la pantalla del iPad hasta cubrir toda la cara.

    • Esto mantendrá los fragmentos de vidrio contenidos y proporcionará integridad estructural al levantar la pantalla.

    • Haz tu mejor esfuerzo para seguir el resto de la guía como se describe. Sin embargo, una vez que se rompa el vidrio, es probable que continúe agrietándose mientras trabaja, y es posible que necesite usar una herramienta de palanca de metal para sacar el vidrio.

    • Use anteojos de seguridad para proteger sus ojos y tenga cuidado de no dañar la pantalla LCD.

  6. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 6, imagen 1 de 2 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 6, imagen 2 de 2
    • Manejándolo por la etiqueta, coloca el iOpener calentado en el costado del iPad a la izquierda del botón de inicio.

    • Deja que el iOpener repose durante al menos un minuto para ablandar el adhesivo debajo del vidrio.

  7. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 7, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 7, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 7, imagen 3 de 3
    • Si bien el iPad se ve uniforme desde el exterior, hay componentes delicados debajo del vidrio frontal. Para evitar daños, solo calienta y haz palanca en las áreas descritas en cada paso.

    • A medida que sigas las instrucciones, ten especial cuidado para evitar hacer palanca en las siguientes áreas:

    • Cámara frontal

    • Antenas

    • Cables de pantalla

  8. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, Instrucciones de Anti-Clamp: paso 8, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, Instrucciones de Anti-Clamp: paso 8, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, Instrucciones de Anti-Clamp: paso 8, imagen 3 de 3
    Herramienta utilizada en este paso:
    Anti-Clamp
    $24.95
    Comprar
    • Los siguientes dos pasos demuestran el Anti-Clamp, una herramienta que diseñamos para hacer el procedimiento de apertura más fácil, Si no estas usando el Anti-Clamp saltea tres pasos para un método alternativo.

    • Para instrucciones completas en como usar el Anti-Clamp, checa esta guía.

    • Jala el mango azul hacia la bisagra para activar el modo de apertura.

    • Pon un objeto debajo de tu iPad para que haya un espacio entre las ventosas.

    • Posiciona las ventosas de apertura cerca del borde izquierdo de la pantalla --una en el frente, y otra detrás.

    • Sostén firmemente la parte trasera del Anti-Clamp y presiona la ventosa superior hacia abajo para aplicar succión.

    • Si encuentras que la superficie de tu dispositivo es demasiado resbaloso para que que el Anti-Clamp se sostenga, usa cinta para crear una superficie con más agarre.

  9. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 9, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 9, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 9, imagen 3 de 3
    • Mueve la manija azul hacia adelante para bloquear los brazos.

    • Gira la manija en sentido horario 360 grados o hasta que las ventosas comiencen a estirarse.

    • Asegúrate que las ventosas permanezcan alineadas una con otra. Si comienzan a desalinearse, aflójalas levemente y realinea los brazos.

  10. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 10, imagen 1 de 2 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 10, imagen 2 de 2
    • Dale un minuto al adhesivo para que se suelte y deje un espacio para poder abrir.

    • Si tu pantalla no se calienta lo suficiente, puedes usar un secador de pelo para calentar a lo largo del borde izquierdo del iPad.

    • Para instrucciones sobre cómo usar un secador de pelo, revisa esta guía.

    • Inserta una púa de apertura debajo de la pantalla cuando el Anti-Clamp cree un espacio lo suficiente grande.

    • Si el Anti-Clamp no crea un suficiente hueco, aplica mas calor al área y gira el mango en sentido horario media vuelta.

    • No gires mas que media vuelta a la vez, y espera un minuto entre giros. Deja el Anti-Clamp y el tiempo hacer el trabajo por ti.

    • Salta los siguientes dos pasos.

  11. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 11, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 11, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 11, imagen 3 de 3
    • Coloca con cuidado una ventosa a la mitad del lado calentado.

    • Asegúrate de que la ventosa esté completamente plana en la pantalla para obtener un sello hermético.

    • Mientras mantienes presionado el iPad con una mano, tira de la ventosa para separar ligeramente el cristal del panel frontal de la carcasa trasera.

    • Si la pantalla de tu iPad está muy agrietada, cubrirla con una capa suave de cinta adhesiva transparente puede ayudar a que la ventosa se adhiera. Alternativamente, usa una cinta fuerte (como cinta adhesiva para conductos) y dóblala en un asa.

  12. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 12, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 12, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 12, imagen 3 de 3
    • Coloca un púa de apertura en el espacio abierto por la ventosa.

    • No insertes la púa de apertura más profundo que el bisel negro en el costado de la pantalla. Insertar el pico demasiado lejos puede dañar la pantalla LCD.

    • Tire de la protuberancia plástica de la ventosa para liberar el sello de vacío y retire la ventosa del ensamblaje de la pantalla.

  13. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 13, imagen 1 de 1
    • Recalienta y reemplaza el iOpener.

    • Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante el procedimiento de reparación. Siempre espera al menos diez minutos antes de recalentar el iOpener.

  14. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 14, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 14, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 14, imagen 3 de 3
    • Coloca una segunda púa de apertura junto a la primera y desliza la púa hacia abajo a lo largo del borde del iPad, liberando el adhesivo a medida que avanza.

  15. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 15, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 15, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 15, imagen 3 de 3
    • Continúa moviendo la púa de apertura hacia abajo al costado de la pantalla para liberar el adhesivo.

    • Si la púa de apertura se atasca en el adhesivo, "gira" la púa a lo largo del costado del iPad, continuando soltando el adhesivo.

  16. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 16, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 16, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 16, imagen 3 de 3
    • Toma la primera herramienta que insertaste y deslízala hacia la esquina superior del iPad.

    • Si puedes ver la punta de la púa de apertura a través del vidrio frontal, no te asustes, simplemente tira de la púa un poco. Lo más probable es que todo esté bien, pero trata de evitarlo, ya que puedes depositar adhesivo en la parte frontal de la pantalla LCD que es difícil de limpiar.

  17. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 17, imagen 1 de 1
    • Vuelve a calentar el iOpener y colóquelo en el borde superior del iPad, sobre la cámara frontal.

    • Ten cuidado de no sobrecalentar el iOpener durante el procedimiento de reparación. Espera al menos diez minutos antes de recalentar el iOpener.

    • Si tienes un iOpener flexible, puedes doblarlo para calentar la esquina superior izquierda y el borde superior al mismo tiempo.

  18. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 18, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 18, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 18, imagen 3 de 3
    • Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda del iPad para separar el adhesivo.

  19. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 19, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 19, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 19, imagen 3 de 3
    • Desliza la púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior del iPad, deteniéndose justo antes de llegar a la cámara.

    • La tercera imagen muestra dónde están la cámara frontal y la carcasa en el iPad.

    • Evita deslizar la púa de apertura sobre la cámara frontal, ya que puede untar adhesivo en la lente o dañar la cámara. Los siguientes pasos detallarán la mejor manera de evitar molestar a la cámara frontal.

  20. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 20, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 20, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 20, imagen 3 de 3
    • Tira de la púa ligeramente y deslice la punta suavemente a lo largo de la parte superior de la sección frontal de la cámara del borde superior.

  21. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 21, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 21, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 21, imagen 3 de 3
    • Deja la púa de apertura en el iPad un poco más allá de la cámara frontal.

    • Toma una segunda púa e insértala a la izquierda de la cámara, y luego deslízala hacia la esquina del iPad para terminar de cortar el adhesivo en ese borde.

  22. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 22, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 22, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 22, imagen 3 de 3
    • Inserta la púa anterior más profundamente en el iPad y deslízala lejos de la cámara hacia la esquina.

  23. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 23, imagen 1 de 1
    • Deja las tres pías en las esquinas del iPad para evitar que se vuelva a adherir el adhesivo del panel frontal.

    • Vuelve a calentar el iOpener y colócalo en el lado restante del iPad, junto con los botones de volumen y bloqueo.

  24. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 24, imagen 1 de 2 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 24, imagen 2 de 2
    • Desliza la púa de apertura alrededor de la esquina superior derecha del iPad, liberando el adhesivo allí.

    • Deja esta púa en su lugar para evitar que el adhesivo se vuelva a sellar, y toma una nueva selección para el siguiente paso.

  25. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 25, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 25, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 25, imagen 3 de 3
    • Inserta una púa de apertura y deslízala hacia el centro del borde derecho del iPad, liberando el adhesivo a medida que avanza.

    • Los cables de la pantalla se encuentran aproximadamente a la mitad de la parte inferior del iPad. Deja de deslizar la púa cuando obtenga ~ 4.5" desde la parte inferior del iPad.

  26. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 26, imagen 1 de 1
    • Deja las púas de apertura en su lugar y coloca el iOpener recalentado en el extremo del botón de inicio del iPad.

  27. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 27, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 27, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 27, imagen 3 de 3
    • Desliza la púa inferior izquierda hacia la esquina inferior izquierda para cortar el adhesivo en esa esquina.

    • Deja la púa en la esquina. No hagas palanca más y no quites la púa del iPad.

    • La tercera imagen muestra las dos antenas y la cavidad del botón de inicio en el cuerpo del iPad.

    • Los siguientes pasos te indicarán dónde hacer palanca para evitar daños a estos componentes. Solo aplica calor y haz palanca donde se te indique.

  28. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 28, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 28, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 28, imagen 3 de 3
    • Deja la púa del último paso en su lugar para evitar que el adhesivo se vuelva a sellar.

    • Con una nueva púa, desliza suavemente sobre la antena de la izquierda, deteniéndote antes del botón de inicio.

    • Desliza solo la púa desde el borde exterior hacia el centro del iPad. No muevas la punta hacia el borde exterior, ya que moverse en esta dirección puede dañar la antena.

    • Si necesitas deslizar la púa sobre la sección inferior más de una vez, retírala y vuelve a insertarla en el borde exterior, y deslízala hacia adentro.

    • Deja la púa en su lugar antes de continuar.

  29. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 29, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 29, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 29, imagen 3 de 3
    • Toma una nueva púa y deslízala a la derecha de la selección anterior.

    • Desliza el botón de inicio y la antena derecha usando solo la punta para quitar el adhesivo.

  30. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 30, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 30, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 30, imagen 3 de 3
    • Con el adhesivo aflojado, ahora puedes insertar la púa cerca de la esquina derecha. Desliza la púa hacia la izquierda y detente justo antes del botón de Inicio.

    • Al igual que con la antena izquierda, solo desliza desde el borde exterior hacia el centro. Invertir esta dirección puede dañar la antena.

  31. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 31, imagen 1 de 1
    • Vuelve a calentar y vuelve a aplicar el iOpener en el lado de control de volumen del iPad.

  32. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 32, imagen 1 de 2 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 32, imagen 2 de 2
    • Ten mucho cuidado con este paso. Tómate tu tiempo y asegúrate de que el adhesivo esté caliente y suave, y que haya pasado por todo el adhesivo con una púa de apertura. No tengas miedo de detenerte y recalentar.

    • En el lado del iPad opuesto a los controles de volumen, debe tener una púa alojada en cada esquina. Gira las púas para levantar ligeramente el vidrio, separando el último adhesivo a lo largo del borde del cable de la pantalla.

    • Si encuentras una cantidad significativa de resistencia, deja las púas en su lugar, vuelve a calentar y vuelve a aplicar el iOpener en las áreas problemáticas.

  33. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 33, imagen 1 de 2 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 33, imagen 2 de 2
    • Levanta lenta y suavemente para desprender aún más el adhesivo a lo largo del borde del cable de la pantalla.

  34. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 34, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 34, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 34, imagen 3 de 3
    • Mientras sostienes el vidrio del panel frontal, usa una púa de apertura para cortar el último adhesivo.

    • Ten mucho cuidado de no cortar ni dañar ninguno de los cables de la pantalla.

  35. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 35, imagen 1 de 2 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 35, imagen 2 de 2
    • Una vez que se haya separado todo el adhesivo, abre el panel de cristal como una página en un libro y déjalo en tu espacio de trabajo.

    • Durante el reensamblaje, limpia los restos del adhesivo de la carcasa (y el vidrio frontal si lo estás reutilizando) con alcohol isopropílico, y reemplaza el adhesivo usando nuestra guía de aplicación de adhesivo y tiras adhesivas precortadas.

    • Es fácil pellizcar un cable flexible entre el cristal frontal y el marco del iPad durante el reensamblaje. Estáte atento a los cables flexibles y asegúrate de que se pliegan suavemente y se pliegan debajo del marco. Si los pliegues de un cable flexible se presionan por completo, puede dañarse sin posibilidad de reparación.

  36. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, LCD: paso 36, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, LCD: paso 36, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, LCD: paso 36, imagen 3 de 3
    • Remueve cualquier cinta adhesiva que obstruya los tornillos del LCD

  37. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 37, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remueve los cuatro tornillos Phillips #00 de 4.3mm que mantienen el LCD

    Both of the iPad 6th gen models i have seen so for (note they were cellular also) had the LCD secured with a grey silicone kind of adhesive in each corner under the screws. So you can’t just lift the LCD as you normally would after removing screws, it would break. I found you could pick at the corner closest to the rear camera easiest, slightly lift that corner and gently separate the other side next to the headphone jack. Then while supporting the LCD , lever the other end free with a up-and-down motion making slight progress each time.

    Anvil Electronics - Contestar

    I found the same thing on my 32GB wifi only ipad. Was unable to lift the screen off once I’d removed the screws so followed the instructions above and gently prized the screen up from the top left-hand screw bracket and it came away. Then moved onto the top right hand one.

    mann134 - Contestar

    One YouTube video said to dig all that glue out. I didn’t and it seems to not hurt to leave it there but you do have to break free from it.

    Robin - Contestar

    On my iPad 6, there were small rubber tabs covering the two screws on the front camera side. I carefully held them out of place with tweezers while unscrewing the screws.

    Martin Winter - Contestar

  38. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 38, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 38, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 38, imagen 3 de 3
    • No intentes remover completamente el LCD del iPad, este sigue conectado por varios cables en la parte del botón inicio. levanta solamente de la cámara frontal.

    • Usa la punta plana de un spudger para levantar el LCD de su lugar y poderla sostener con los dedos. Puede que haya pegamento alrededor de los agujeros de los tornillos que se tenga que cortar con un cuchillo

    • Gira el LCD levantando desde la cámara frontal hasta el botón inicio como si fuese un libro.

    • Se gentil y observa los cables del LCD mientras giras la pantalla.

    • Pon la pantalla sobre su cara para permitir el acceso a los cables.

    • Pon el LCD en una superficie limpia y suave para evitar daños.

    When you replace the LCD be sure to make sure it is screwed in fully. It is easy not, especially on the cornet where the digitizer cables are. The LCD is very sensitive and if you bend it then it can stop working. I was just pressing the digitized in place at the end of a repair and the screen was covered in white lines.

    hugh - Contestar

    I have no idea of what the logic board looks like !!!

    HenryFMora - Contestar

  39. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, Información del conector de la batería: paso 39, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, Información del conector de la batería: paso 39, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, Información del conector de la batería: paso 39, imagen 3 de 3
    • Estas fotos muestras como luce un conector de batería debajo de la tarjeta lógica. Usa estas fotos como una referencia mientras desconectas con seguridad la batería.

    • Nota que el conector de la batería tiene muelles voladizos en la tarjeta lógica que presionan en contra de las almohadillas de contacto de la batería. Debido que la tarjeta lógica y la batería están pegadas, necesitarás deslizar algo delgado y flexible entre los puntos de contacto para desconectar la batería.

  40. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 40, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 40, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 40, imagen 3 de 3
    • Remueve el único tornillo Phillips #000 2.3mm uniendo el conector de la batería a la tarjeta madre

    • Para reducir el riesgo de un corto usando una púa de insolación para desconectar la batería.

    • Desliza el bloqueador de batería por debajo del conector de la tarjeta lógica en un ángulo de 35 grados.

    • No empujes el bloqueador de la batería debajo del conector con demasiada fuerza. Si estas teniendo problemas colocando el bloqueador de batería debajo de la tarjeta lógica, puedes intentar usar un naipe en vez para desconectar la batería.

    • El bloqueador de batería o naipe idealmente debería deslizarse debajo de la tarjeta lógica sin encontrar algún bloqueo. Después de la inserción, debe descansar en un ángulo de 15 grados.

    • Deja el bloqueador de batería en este lugar conforme trabajas.

    If you insert a regular pick without a gap then you can damage this connector and will need a new motherboard. If in doubt just insert into the left corner enough to raise it a tiny bit. Arguably, if you are not sure, then it is safer just power off and don’t power back on until everything is fully connected. A photo of how this connector looks with its cover off would really help for people that have not seen this type of battery connector before. You just need to get it to lift a tiny bit, Do not try to slide anything under the contacts….

    hugh - Contestar

    I bumped this darn thing several times, it was twisted and skewed making me freak out but the iPad still works. I am thinking you should pull it out and put the screw back in right after the LCD is removed. Then use it again just before putting the LCD screen back in. The pick is sticking out there waitng to be be bumped.

    Robin - Contestar

    Hi Robin,

    Unfortunately, there is no easy way to pull the battery connector out of the logic board. If you try to pry this connector off, you will irreparably damage it. The easiest solution is to insert the battery blocker in-between to cut the power.

    Arthur Shi -

    The battery isolation pick or battery blocker is an outdated way of isolating the battery, as you risk damaging the battery pins underneath the logic board.

    So what is the new method?

    Wil Thieme - Contestar

    This is my question as well. Seems like this phrase contradicts the instructions. Confusing. Any reply?

    Melissa Hoffman -

    We are currently working on a better isolation procedure! In the meantime, I’ve updated the warning to hopefully clarify the issue.

    Arthur Shi -

    Why do you need to “To reduce the risk of a short”? There does not seem to by any risk of a “short” in this process. I can see other reasons for disconnecting the battery. I am an electrical engineer so I would appreciate a professional grade answer to this question.

    Rumboogy - Contestar

    I’ll give it a shot!

    When you remove the screw, it doesn’t disconnect the battery, as the connector uses spring contacts to touch the battery pads.

    If you leave the battery connected, it leaves the logic board energized. As there are many exposed traces and SMT components on the logic board, there is a chance that you accidentally bridge a trace with a metal tool, resulting damage. In addition, the display connector contains tiny pins, and the pinout is such that if you pry the connector from an energized logic board, there is a chance that a voltage rail pin may accidentally touch something it shouldn’t, blowing out the backlight circuitry.

    Arthur Shi -

    My battery was dead when i did the repair. Did not really need to perform this step

    Igor Kapitanker - Contestar

    Take a waterproof playing card, cut out the shape of the battery blocker and slide that under. Battery blocked and pins not at risk of damage. Got that from a YouTube video made by a microsolder repair tech fixing the damage caused by jamming a blocker in between the contacts.

    Melody Fraysier - Contestar

    Thanks for the tip Melody! I’ve updated the instructions to include the playing card method.

    Arthur Shi -

    I could not for the life of me get the playing card in there, but my iPad was turned off, so I decided to ‘risk’ a short, instead of potentially damaging the battery connectors by jamming the card in there as hard as possible. My repair went fine, no short, however I realized AFTER closing everything up that I forgot to put the battery screw back in. Really hoping this doesn’t become an issue long term, because I don’t want to pry this brand new screen off just to put the battery in.

    Janie Hughes - Contestar

    Let us know! I wasn't able to use the screw again after removing the battery blocker. Now my iPad turns off and on every so many minutes and when it restarts it's 1% and then shows actual charge.

    Martin Hinojosa -

    When you come to screw this back together, do not overestimate how little force it takes to strip the thread on this #000 screw. I did, and I now I can't screw this back down and have the problem where the iPad restarts every 3 mins 20 sec after you turn it on due to a poor connection here. I've used card to pack this out so the LCD puts a little clamping force on the terminal once you screw it back in, but it's not really enough so the iPad still suddenly restarts occasionally.

    Rory Condon - Contestar

    I use a small screwdriver and pry underneath that brown bracket from the top edge by the camera (with the elongated metal cover removed of course) all the way before the battery, then lift up just enough for me to unhinged the battery out of the secure post. I don't know why Apple has to go through ALL THIS just to connect the battery since there is a small screw AND ADHESIVE securing it anyway. Nonetheless the whole job (replacing the lcd screen and battery was a major pain in the neck!

    80s Guy - Contestar

  41. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 41, imagen 1 de 1
    • Quita los tres tornillos Phillips #000 1.4mm del soporte que mantiene los cables del LCD

    I believe these are also Phillips #00, not Phillips #000.

    Kevin Chatterton II - Contestar

    I lost a 1.4mm screw where can I buy these small screws and how big are they? 1.4mm x? flared or flat head

    ferdinando.gregis@gmail.com - Contestar

    Is this part important? It seems like I lost it.

    Will - Contestar

    You don't have to remove any of this when replacing the battery but doing so will make the job easier and can prevent from accidentally knocking the adjacent cables.

    80s Guy - Contestar

  42. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 42, imagen 1 de 2 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 42, imagen 2 de 2
    • Usa la punta plana de un spudger para levantar con cuidado el cable y el soporte juntos de la tarjeta madre

    • El conector de la pantalla esta adherido a la parte baja del soporte, así que no metas mucho el spudger o posiblemente dañes el conector

  43. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 43, imagen 1 de 1
    • Remueve el LCD del iPad

  44. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, Reemplazo del panel frontal: paso 44, imagen 1 de 2 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, Reemplazo del panel frontal: paso 44, imagen 2 de 2
    • Remueve toda cinta cubriendo el cable del conector del botón Home.

  45. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 45, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 45, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 45, imagen 3 de 3
    • Usa el lado plano de un spudger para levantar la pestaña en el conector ZIF del cable plano del botón Home hacia arriba.

    • Cuidadosamente tira el cable plano del botón Home afuera del conector ZIF.

    I'm confused about the home flex cable connector required for the 6th generation iPad. It was my understanding that this model required an 18 pin connector. But these excellent pictures clearly show a 14 pin connector, just like the one for the first generation iPad Air AKA the iPad 5. I know this is not the primary focus of this guide, but can anyone clarify this for me?

    Bonnie Baxter - Contestar

    I did the whole repair but this part is the problem HELP !!! I unlocked it but it took me 1 hour to carefully pull out the HOME BUTTON RIBBON CABLE. It finally came out with tweezers but now I CAN'T GET IT BACK IN and as a result my touch I.D. won't activate. It seems there was a tiny bit of black tape overlapping the connector on the ribbon which I carefully cut off exposing only the connector on the ribbon itself but how the heck does it slide in before you lock it. It seems easy on Youtube videos but mine just doesn't slide in with hand or with tweezers. OR in fact is there another connector that controls the TOUCH I.D. ???

    Just a guy - Contestar

    Failed this step- broke the connector. If I try this again, I'd be inclined try to remove the home button from the front panel without unplugging it. Everything else seems to work fine.

    Sandy Kilday - Contestar

  46. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 46, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 46, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 46, imagen 3 de 3
    • Usa el lado plano de un spudger o una uña para cuidadosamente despegar los dos cables del digitalizador de su conector.

    • Para evitar dañar tu iPad, tira solo del conector en sí, no en el zocalo en la placa lógica.

    • Durante el re-ensamble, asegura que estos conectores están completamente sentados en su zocalo, o puede que encuentras problemas con la pantalla.

    Where can I get a good used motherboard for a A1954 iPad 6 gen everywhere I look, there sold out ?...

    Trent Weaver - Contestar

  47. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 47, imagen 1 de 2 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 47, imagen 2 de 2
    • Cuidadosamente pela el cable plano del botón Home de su adhesivo manteniéndolo a la carcasa posterior.

    If you can make sure to not pull on the home button side, i would leave out this step. i replaced two displays so far, on the first i removed it, but left it connected on the second attempt. worked like a charm

    Tommy Wienert - Contestar

  48. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 48, imagen 1 de 2 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 48, imagen 2 de 2
    Herramienta utilizada en este paso:
    Polyimide Tape
    $9.99
    Comprar
    • Remueve el ensamble del panel frontal.

    • Si estas experimentando problemas "fantasma" o "espectro" con la entrada de touch en tu nueva pantalla, esto puede ser resuelto añadiendo una capa de cinta aislante muy delgada, como cinta (poliamida) Kapton, a las áreas destacadas en la parte de atrás del panel. Paneles de iFixit vienen con aislante apropiado, y no deberían requerir la adición de cualquier cinta.

    • Sin aislante apropiado, estas áreas del digitalizador pueden conectarse a tierra con otros componentes, causando problemas de la entrada de touch.

    • El aislante no es visible a simple vista, y es diferente de las tiras de barrera de espuma de polvo encontradas en muchas iPads.

  49. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, Conjunto del botón Inicio: paso 49, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, Conjunto del botón Inicio: paso 49, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi, Conjunto del botón Inicio: paso 49, imagen 3 de 3
    • Comienza suavemente a quitar el cable del botón de inicio de la parte posterior del panel frontal.

    • Continúa despegando hasta llegar al blindaje metálico del cable.

    START using extreme caution at this point. This ribbon IS VERY FRAGILE, especially after the silver rectangle/shield. That gold piece is attached to the cable.

    Jennifer Altamirano - Contestar

  50. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 50, imagen 1 de 2 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 50, imagen 2 de 2
    • Inserta una púa de apertura entre el protector de metal y el panel frontal y sácalo suavemente del digitalizador.

    I lifted the metal shield from the outside edge so not to tear the ribbon cable. I think I even used the razor blade (the tool of last resort).

    Robin - Contestar

  51. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 51, imagen 1 de 2 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 51, imagen 2 de 2
    • Despega suavemente el contacto de metal del soporte del botón de inicio.

    I ripped the ribbon cable out of the button at this step… be extremely gentle!

    James - Contestar

    So what exactly does this metal contact do? Can the HB work without that single gold contact?

    Perrin Aybara - Contestar

    Can anyone answer this question? The gold metal rectangle contact ripped off even horizontally with the rest of the home button cable. Do I need to order a whole new home button with cable? Or will I at least get functionality from the home button, only missing that little gold rectangle ?

    PC Ops -

    I ripped mine. Reattached the metal contact to the cable with some tape as best as I could. The button and touch ID work, so not sure if the metal contact is absolutely needed…? If it’s just for grounding?

    Joshua Schoemmell -

    Thank you for showing the bracket up close!

    Dvi - Contestar

    EXTREME CAUTION!!! The little metal contact is very fragile. I ripped mine off. Well, when I say ripped I mean I breathed on it.

    I would suggest maybe warming that part up before pulling and don’t just pull up from the main ribbon. Work it slowly.

    David Raines - Contestar

    CAUTION!!! that little gold contact got me too!! Please update the instructions to include this.

    Jennifer Altamirano - Contestar

    Did you find out if the home button still works without the rectangular gold contact?

    PC Ops -

    I wish I didn’t peel this last piece off, I don’t think you need to. It seems to be what keeps the bracket lined up over the button. Now I have to try to glue it back on perfectly so the bracket is centered over the home button.

    Robin - Contestar

  52. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 52, imagen 1 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 52, imagen 2 de 3 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 52, imagen 3 de 3
    • Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico para levantar el soporte del botón de inicio de la parte posterior del panel frontal.

    • Al volver a colocar el soporte del botón de inicio, usa un poco de adhesivo o cinta de doble cara para asegurar el soporte en su lugar.

    • Una vez que hayas separado un lado del soporte del botón de inicio, sujeta firmemente el soporte y retíralo del panel frontal.

    I'd recommend using something stronger than double sided tape. I completed this whole repair without too much lasting trouble, but the biggest issue was I didn’t get the home bracket secured firmly enough. A few weeks after the repair, the home button got pressed in and lodged under the hole cut for it, so I can’t unlock my iPad at all (the home button can’t be “pressed” in its current state). So I’m ordering a second screen and have to go through everything again. This time I’m using super glue to get that thing welded on there. If anything breaks in the future, I’m just getting a new iPad.

    Micah Sledge - Contestar

    I had this problem too. Very frustrating. Not sure what I’d do to fix this. If you are repairing this for someone else, then super glue would not be the best option.

    MYMS! - Contestar

    I don’t see why iFixit does not simply sell an optional iPad screen with a new home button pre-installed - other competing companies do it, and with iFixit’s pro reputation, having a pre-installed option would certainly be an excellent sales option. My 2¢ worth.

    dlcatftwin - Contestar

    The home button that came with your iPad is the only one that will allow touchID to function. This is why this must be migrated from the old to the new screen. Of course, if your iPad does not have touchID, this is not a concern.

    Robert -

    TIP FOR HOME BUTTON REMOVAL

    I found it to be simpler by using the same pry tool shown in the image and pry the tab furthest from the flex cable. Its an easy start knowing that if you damage the cable you can loose Touch ID permanently.

    My steps were basically as follows in this specific order:

    1. Using a guitar pick, release the cable from the adhesive and SLOWLY lift up the cable and the components with it

    2. Once you reach the tabs that hold the home button in place, pry the tab furthest from the flex cable (this requires a little more force)

    3. Once the tab furthest from the home button is lifted away, you can hold on to the metal piece (The whole tab) and lift it away safely.

    4. Using your finger, press in the home button to release it from the glass and your done.

    Narayan Ramcharitar - Contestar

    After replacement m home button works fine, but it’s very loose in the housing. I can tip it around by moving my fingers to the edges. Any ideas what I did wrong?

    Mike van Grunsven - Contestar

    I had to use far more pressure to remove the bracket than I was comfortable with and when it came loose it went flying. Re-attaching is easy, but I used some hobby glue to secure it in place, so if the screen breaks again, that part is NOT coming off again. I’m guessing because I did this I don’t have the “depressed” issues that others have described, it seems to be like new at this point.

    David Yutzy - Contestar

    I agree, the bracket needs glueing when refitting. Replaced the glass on my iPad and after a couple of days the home button came loose and stopped working. Now i just broke the glass when opening the iPad to fix the home button bracket. I love my life! :-)

    Mats Fredholm - Contestar

    I used a piece of the rectangular section of an adhesive strip cut to the exact size of the home button bracket feet to reattach it to the digitizer for reassembly. It is very strong and worked better than double sided tape or glue.

    Clifford Sullivan - Contestar

    agree. I did same. Also do not forget to remove protective film from the inner side of the new digitizer. Do it before you start reassembly.

    Igor Kapitanker -

  53. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 53, imagen 1 de 2 Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 53, imagen 2 de 2
    • Presiona el botón de inicio desde el lado externo del digitalizador para romper el adhesivo que lo mantiene en su lugar.

    • Aplica presión lentamente. El adhesivo está unido a una junta delicada que se rasgará fácilmente.

    Are these last several steps necessary in just replacing the front glass panel that is cracked? my ipad is a wi-fi only

    Joe Hall - Contestar

    Yes, even if you’re only replacing the front glass panel, you still have to transfer your original home button from the old panel to the replacement. Even if the new panel comes with a new home button, Touch ID will only work with the original home button.

    Adam O'Camb -

    Buy an extra home button adhesive gasket. The adhesive from the original will not be reusable

    John Marx - Contestar

    I second this advice. I skipped it the first time, and the home button was too wiggly (although it worked). Now that I’ve replaced the screen a 2nd time (ugh), this time adding a new gasket, it’s a bit more firm, but still more wiggly than originally. If you don’t mind the button being lose, you probably can reuse the gasket, but if I have to do this again, I’ll probably get another gasket.

    Gary Wolfe -

    Yep, tore mine even as delicate as could be. I would highly recommend hitting the home button with a heat gun prior to attempting to remove. On the plus side, the replacement gaskets are cheap and easy enough to replace.

    Kevin Chatterton II - Contestar

    Notice the sharp crease in the ribbon cable near the home button? I thought I bent it at some point but it was already there.

    Robin - Contestar

    My screen was damaged in such a way that removing the old gasket didn't tell me how to install the new one.

    Sandy Kilday - Contestar

  54. Remplazo del Ensamble del Panel Frontal en un iPad 6 Wi-Fi: paso 54, imagen 1 de 1
    • Quita el conjunto del botón de inicio.

    Be very careful !!!!

    Easy Repair - Contestar

    I did a screen replacement and it’s impossible to place the home button bracket in the correct position, now the home button doesn’t click anymore. Works, but you have to press harder.

    fjaroski - Contestar

    Given the delicacy of this stage, I believe it behooves iFixit to offer a panel replacement option with a new Home button pre-installed.

    Others do; with iFixit’s reputation, such a purchase option would be a welcome, stellar addition to its inventory. Yes, you would have to cancel your Touch-ID setting prior to repair, but that’s a small inconvenience to having to negotiate such a procedure. My 2¢ worth.

    Thanks, iFixit, for the excellent instructions

    dlcatftwin - Contestar

    I second this - tore the home button cable during disassembly and ordered another home button assembly just to figure out that I need the gasket and holder as well as it was not included. -

    Michael Berneis -

    Yes - the metal contact on the home button tore… now I have to figure out how to do another repair. Also, my replacement screen comes with plastic on both sides and multiple tabs in different colors. Now I’m too scared to remove those for fear of ripping something.. you should have glass replace directions here too.

    Anu Anand - Contestar

    Hi sir

    Iam try replace ditigizer on iPad 6th gen

    Will my home button and finger print if I replace the home to another the home button will if I buy it from you guys

    John Clark - Contestar

    replaced the display with new home button assembly, new gasket, and holder - button works but fingerprint sensor not anymore - It would be great to have detailed instructions for the complete the home button assembly with all the different parts, not only the teardown for reference. - i.e. it seems you need to push the button through the gasket before assembly so the cable leaves inside and the order is glass-button-gasket-holder.

    Michael Berneis - Contestar

    The article explicitly states that the Home Button and the Motherboard are a BONDED PAIR. If you replace one without the other, Touch ID will stop working. This is why the instruction say you have to retain the button.

    Matt Spriggs - Contestar

    While I’m a fairly tech savvy person, telling people to reverse the steps is ridiculous—you need to show people what to expect. Second, include the home button on the new screen sale. I’m in the middle of the repair at this point, I’ve given you $100 and this seriously frustrating, especially when the home button you sell (which I had to buy after the screen, because I inadvertently tore off a bit) DOESN”T include the proper adhesive. PS—trying to get the adhesive on the new button is a practice in torture.

    Jennifer Altamirano - Contestar

    Now the adhesive ring in on the old glass and rips apart if you pull it off. I think you don’t need the adhesive ring but it keeps the button splash proof. I am going to use tiny amounts of glue but all the more reason to buy a new assy just for that ring.

    Robin - Contestar

    I had to notch out the glass adhesive just slightly where bottom right corner of the home button bracket sits against it. It is curved and needed to be squared off to match the bracket. I held the ribbon cable, button and bracket in place with tape before I glued the bracket. I also used a flashlight behind the bracket and button gap to see that the bump on the bracket was lined up with the button’s switch.

    Robin - Contestar

    I'm quite disappointed the fact that this is a replacement guide but does not include re-assembly steps.

    We ordered a new home button and gasket for an iPad 5, which works with the iPad 6 home button as well.

    Neither guide has re-assembly instructions for the home button.

    My customer service is important and I would like to see better guides that include disassembly and reassembly steps.

    I need to know how to properly apply a home button gasket to the home button.

    If I am missing something, please let me know.

    PS. It's not good practice to use metal tools so close to the main board. An insolated pair would be more ideal.

    Will Helbing - Contestar

    The small black dot on the home button microswitch comes off no matter how careful you are. Home button will not work properly if you loose the black dot. I have done 5-6 repairs and on 4 of them the black dot just fell off. I have been successful using a small piece of Kapton tape and reinstalling the black dot in the center of the home button microswitch.

    tomgeorge - Contestar

    I also removed a metal ring that sits between the gasket and the glass. It has the same shape of the gasket, and it’s glued to the glass after removing the home button assembly. Used a thin double-sided tape with strong glue when reassembling; maybe B7000 glue would be easier.

    Andre Saito - Contestar

    It's so frustrating seeing these guides that just say “follow these steps in the reverse order" when I'm really searching for a technique and guidance on replacing the rubber gasket and and proper placement of the bracket so it clicks as it should and doesn't sink in.

    Calan Belvin - Contestar

    Agree with previous comments. Would be helpful to go over replacing the button gasket, and the actual reassembly instead of just ‘reverse order’.

    Janie Hughes - Contestar

    it would be nice to see how to re assemble when to pull backing off glue, how to add grommet, how to bend new wires in place to seat correctly

    Thomas Frank - Contestar

    Would I be able to use the new replacement home button as to go back to home page? Or is it just going to he for the decoration?

    shanparshan - Contestar

    I needed 6 hours for

    1) removing the cracked display glass with a scalpell,

    2) to remove the glue with glue remover,

    3) to install a new home button (because I cutted the homebutten flex-cable) and

    4) to glue the touchdisplay (digitizer) with T7000 diplay glue!!!. The delivered glueband on the digitizer shouldn't be used, because it is to weak.

    There is a HowTo missing to install a new home button. I also didn't found a new homebutton from iFixit. So I had to buy it somewere else.

    MAISY MOUSE - Contestar

Conclusión

Para re-ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.

179 personas más completaron esta guía.

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Arthur Shi

Miembro Desde 01/03/18

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46 comentarios

does the front panel of the ipad5 fit here?

cndals0075 - Contestar

The display connectors on the iPad 5 and iPad 6 are at different angles and not directly compatible with each other. We have not yet tried to force the connectors from an iPad 6 display onto an iPad 5 and vice versa to see what happened.

Arthur Shi -

iPad Air and iPad 5 digitiser are same. I have changed some digitiser on iPad 5.

Attila - Contestar

Sorry for the confusion! I meant the digitizer connectors are different, not the LCD. You can see it in these pictures: iPad 5 vs iPad 6.

Arthur Shi -

Thank you for providing the walk-through. I was able to follow it and complete the repair without issue.

Spence - Contestar

Hi ,

thank you very much for this howto.

i have one issue when I replaced the digitizer.

Everything is working fine but as soon as I put on the glass to the body I can hear some „brrrrrr“-Sound when i put my ear on the upper side towards the camera.

Maybe some contact issue with ground ?

Do anybody know what this could be or what i can double check?

thank you very much!

Elprincipe - Contestar

Will the ipad 6th gen still work with the apple pen after replacing the assembly?

Alexy Goko - Contestar

The Apple pen should still work with a replacement assembly.

Arthur Shi -

My biggest comment would be to double check the iPad glass to ensure there isn’t a backing film on it. I got mine all assembled to find out that there was a near invisible film on the inside of mine. Also it is important to note the importance of not touching the LCD screen and to use something like a camera lens cleaner/blower to touch this up right before you seal the iPad up. The packing tape/duct tape trick didn’t do much for me and pretty much made the suction cup unusable. Other than that, you had a very great guide! Thanks for the help!

chiefb711 - Contestar

We did our first iPad 6 repair at our shop. Went without a hitch. Helpful to check these out and know where all the cables are routed and such ahead of time. If only they came in with digitizers that just didn’t work instead of completely shattered ones! What a mess!

core:tech - Contestar

Does the ipad air 2 front panel fit here?

The TruthForAll - Contestar

Thanks for the guide. I was able to replace my wife’s shattered digitizer on her iPad 6th gen!

Kevin Chatterton II - Contestar

I tried using the heat pad that came with the tool kit. It was taking to long to heat the adhesive. So I got out my heat gun. That worked much better. The directions were very helpful.

Thanks..

Aaron Smithey - Contestar

The walkthrough was great, just wish there was an ending to walk through the reassembly. I was able to figure it out by back tracking the original instructions and had no issues. But would have been nice to have some straight forward steps. Thank you again!

JESS FABRE - Contestar

Yes! I made it, probably one of the hardest renovations but this walk-through helped a lot!

Bernardo Sampaio - Contestar

Great guide. Thanks. Plan on spending a lot more time if your screen is shattered - took me many hours just to remove all the little shards. Covering it with packing tape definitely helped. It took a lot of reheating the iOpener (and I frequently reheated it at 15 seconds every few minutes without any problems).

corvidcreations - Contestar

My iOpener was not strong enough to open the screen but after reading about people using heatguns (which I had one lying around) I was able to open the case. - My screen was severely cracked which did not allow for a smooth working on the edges. - I finally got the screen off but damaged the home-button cable in the process - ordered a new one so repair is on hold until part arrives.

Michael Berneis - Contestar

Has anyone had an issue with sections of the screen not responding to touch? I replaced the glass and everything seems to be working in terms of turning off and on; home button is fine; and most of the screen is functioning normally. But there are two bands that run through the screen (horizontally) where the touch screen won’t work. They just stay blank when you try and draw using an app. I haven’t been able to see anyone else having this issue and I’m not sure where/how to address it

Adriane Zaic - Contestar

Hi Adriane,

I think the dead bands are the result of the screen digitizer touching something conductive and shorting. Try this step and seeing if that helps.

Arthur Shi -

the two long black strips with adhesive that touch the digitzer’s connection cables to the copper border of the digitizer needs to be stretched out to completely cover the portion of the digitizer that it is meant to cover. If you can see any exposed wire marking from this area you need to pull it out further to cover them.

Denver Crittendon -

I also found the iOpener ineffective: the aluminium frame of the iPad conducts the heat away too quickly.

Mine had super-strong adhesive. I used a larger-than-regulation suction cup, and when I pulled hard enough to separate the warmed-with-a-heat-gun adhesive, the digitiser shattered.

At this point I would have been better off, I think, abandoning the guide and just tearing off the digitiser in shards, working from the center outwards, and keeping just enough at the right edge to hinge up at step 30. By following the guide, I let sugar-grain sized shards onto the LCD, and wherever I slid a pick across them, I scratched the LCD. Once you get to an edge of the shattered digitiser, the adhesive tape is strong enough to pull up with pliers, with the glass shattering as you go.

Step 34: “There may be glue around the screw holes” — Hold your knife vertically. It’s all 4 screws, not just the top 2. In all cases, you need to cut 90 degrees or so worth of glue, on the sides of the screw closest to the edge of the iPad.

DougBurbidge - Contestar

Completed after 10-15 reassemblies. I’d not have done it again. Problems I had include: 1. Ghosting. 2. Home button lose twice. 3. Home button failure. 4. Screen not setting properly. Advice A. Get the following: A1. Tape 3M for attaching screen properly, A2. Non conducting tape apply all copper sides on the digitalizer, I used a utility knife and a plastic ruler to cut it to size after applying. A3. Get the jewelry glue and secure home button bracket or reinforce, it will come lose easily.

Martin Olsson - Contestar

I FIXED IT!!! But in all seriousness, the directions do need some modifications. Removing the home button cable—proceed with EXTREME CAUTION. And there needs to be some guidance (not 40+ steps) for going back and replacing the home button and the screen. I seriously felt like I was hung out to dry at that point.

Jennifer Altamirano - Contestar

I did NOT FixIt. I tried. I really tried. I managed to get a VERY cracked screen taken apart. But the reassembly should be better than, “Drop that baby in reverse!” I did get it back together and it looks clean and neat but it doesn’t work. The home button works but the digitizer itself does not allow input. I can’t input password nor can I shut off and restart. I took it apart again and made sure everything was connected and all the plastic peel offs were removed and still nothing. Very frustrating.

Aaron Olmsted - Contestar

I should add that the guide and comments are excellent for disassembly.

Aaron Olmsted -

Hi Aaron,

It is indeed terrible feeling when the repair does not go as planned. Does the screen work and light up? I would suggest looking carefully at the two digitizer connectors and their cables shown in this step. Even slight amounts of dirt/grease can cause problems. You may also have a short on the digitizer edge. Look over the perimeter shown in this step and make sure nothing is exposed.

Arthur Shi -

That was crap. I want my money back. Taking apart the screen/home button’ was fine, but the lack of instructions for reinstalling the screen, caused me to crack the new screen due to the ribbon not sitting flush when closing it back up. Following the steps in reverse is grossly inadequate for this repair.

James Rees - Contestar

Hi James,

I’m sorry to hear of your experience! I’ll add an additional note in the step to look out for the connector. If you bought the part from us, please contact our customer support and we will work something out!

Arthur Shi -

The guide is very complete and I was able to change the digitizer of the ipad. Only a couple of comments, first, the iopener did not help me, it cost me a lot to loosen the glue and I lost a lot of time, in the end I ended up using a hair dryer, it was more effective and practical. On the other hand, a part would be missing explaining how to start working with the new part, in my case with so much adhesive film I did not know where to start and I had to look for other videos on YouTube to know what to do.

Martin Ibarra - Contestar

After front panel removal (which is the hardest step…because a broken panel…is borken in thousands pieces and can’t be removed as easily as shown in this tutorial) all steps are really easy and clearly explained. Thank you for this tutorial which saved my iPad.

It is important also to take time to clean screen surface before closing / gluing front panel. I forgot this obvious step and dust is stucked between the two layers.

Nicolas Marseille - Contestar

I purchased some very thin plastic credit card size pieces and trimmed them down to use for the shield from the logic board to battery.

This may work better for others as well, I used to use the trimmed guitar pic until a piece broke off and lodged under the logic board.

This turned an hour screen replacement into a 2 hour tear down and it increased the chances blowing fuses, ect.

Thank you for the valuable guide.

Paul

Paul Wilson - Contestar

Of course, my screen break would be on that top-left-hand corner. Thankfully with some extra prying, I was able to get the left edge pried up and the glued-down glass dust pulled out without too much blood loss. The replacement screen had some weird insulating film on the flex cables and its own home button, but after removing all that and swapping in the old button, it slapped back together without any hassle!

My own retrospective thoughts - having recently pulled apart my old Samsung Galaxy S7 to do a motherboard swap and battery replacement, I thought I knew what to expect. This bad boy was NOT as simple or straightforward as all that. It’s a very good thing I followed EVERY WORD of this tutorial (including taking the extra care around the charging port, going off the left-hand edge first, working on opposite sides of the camera, investing in the microwavable heating pad and extra picks and tools…).

Daniel Powell - Contestar

Hi my iPad 6th gen touchscreen has stopped working, I have done a factory reset, held power button and home button down and nothing has worked.the iPad starts up, home and volume buttons work, but not the touchscreen. If I replace the screen, and the digitiser will this solve the problem?

Sam Mookie - Contestar

Unfortunately, I could not fix my Ipad 6. The heating pad took more like 10 minutes to soften the glue on the screen edges, not 1 minute, so it is a slow process. Using the razor blade to get things started worked very well. I then switched to the plastic tips. After removing the screen, I simply tightened the screws to the charging port, but after replacing the screen, the touchscreen no longer worked. It would be nice to have a video showing how to replace the adhesive strips and the screen. Since I had to guess, I assume I did something wrong for the touchscreen not to work. The tools are nice. I did use them successfully for a screen replacement on an HP laptop.

Luntao - Contestar

I placed the new button on the new screen but I not able to make it click how it should. What should I do?

David Coelho - Contestar

Hi David!

The home button presses against the home button bracket in order to click. If your home button isn’t clicking, it may be that the bracket is slightly misaligned. Check the bracket alignment and try again. Another potential issue is that the adhesive you used to reattach the bracket is too thick and it’s bumping the bracket out of reach of the back of the button.

Arthur Shi -

Why don’t you have the iPad 6 digitizer for sale in Australia?

Gareth bone - Contestar

Step44:

Does anyone have a tip for me how to get the touchscreen cables onto the front glass so that when I close it the full touch is still working? Because it seems to have an issue with the aluminium part that's a bit longer when I close the glass onto the tablet, and half the touch stops working.

Thank you!

Tommy Wienert - Contestar

The Guide is perfect, but i had some dificulty in the part of taking out the old front panel assembly. I don't know if it was because of the IOpener not heating enough, or the fact that the screen suction cup, didn't had enough grip, In the end i just destroy the front panel assembly carefully to not damage anything important, and clean the little screen parts that spread everywhere. Now that i instaled the new front Panel assembly, everything works fine, just the glue that hold the screen in th right bottom corner, sometimes just unglue it self, and the screen gets a bit outside of the case, but for that i solved by using a full cover case (with screen protector) .

Abílio Páscoa - Contestar

Today I fixed the IPad6 front panel of my daughter successful. That was really hard as the glass was totally shattered! It took more than two hours to get rid of all glass item. Even the home button is working but I have a problem mounting the new front panel on the frame. On the right side where the data cable goes into the Ipad the Front glass still comes up. The tape isn't enought or the is some cable tension. Do you have some idea?

Thx.

Sebastian Garbs - Contestar

Be careful with the protecting films - on both sides of the digitizer - and ribbon cable. You can use a hair dryer instead of a heat gun or iOpener.

I forget to remove the digitizer's ribbon cable-protecting sticker. It would be nice to have a brief instruction about the assembly.

Gergely Csontos - Contestar

sorry I'm repairing ipad 6 at step 45 of the guide you see a foamy adhesive in the red boxes I would like to know what type it is and where I can find it

thx

ferdinando.gregis@gmail.com - Contestar

My screen was shattered in such a way that removing all of it was a huge project. Transferring the home button needed a little more direction than to put it back together the way it came apart. In the end I broke the connector so the home button doesn't work but everything else seems fine.

Sandy Kilday - Contestar

Hi, I have followed all the instructions in this guide with the correct iFixit tool and new digitizer and the IPad won't turn on or charge. I have tried recovery mode and left it to charge for a while. I didn't have any trouble with any of the steps, I used the battery blocker and the new digitizer fits perfectly with the home button. So everything has gone to plan - except that it won't turn on. Any recommendations on troubleshooting here?

Robin Lynch - Contestar

I took it apart and put it back together again and it works now. Thanks so much for this guide!

Robin Lynch -

Thank you!!! Repair worked perfectly, you guys rock! #righttorepair

Scott Bromschwig - Contestar

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