Introducción
Utiliza esta guía para sustituir el cristal frontal y el conjunto digitalizador en un iPad 5.
Ten en cuenta que, dado que el sensor Touch ID del botón de inicio está emparejado a la placa lógica, esta guía incluye instrucciones para extraer el botón de inicio. Para conservar la funcionalidad de Touch ID, es necesario transferir el botón de inicio original al nuevo conjunto del panel frontal.
Sigue las instrucciones cuidadosamente cuando aísle la batería utilizando un bloqueador de batería. Los contactos de la batería se dañan con facilidad, provocando daños irreversibles. Si decides completar la guía sin aislar la batería, evita utilizar herramientas metálicas excepto cuando sea completamente necesario (como al quitar tornillos) para evitar cortocircuitar la batería y dañar componentes sensibles del circuito.
Qué necesitas
-
-
Calienta el iOpener y aplícalo al borde izquierdo en el dispositivo por dos minutos.
-
-
-
Mientras estas esperando a que se afloje el dispositivo, nota que las siguientes áreas son sensibles al palanqueo:
-
Cámara frontal
-
Antenas
-
Cables del display
-
-
-
Jala el mango azul hacia atrás para desbloquear los brazos del Anti Clamp.
-
Coloca un objeto debajo de tu iPad para que repose a nivel de las ventosas de succión.
-
Posiciona las ventosas de succión cerca del centro del borde izquierdo--una arriba, y una abajo.
-
Sostén el inferior del Anti-Clamp firmemente y presiona hacia abajo en la ventosa superior para aplicar succión.
-
-
-
Jala el mango azul hacia el frente para bloquear los brazos.
-
Gira el mango en sentido horario 360 grados o hasta que la ventosa empiece a estirarse.
-
Asegúrate que la ventosa de succión queden alineadas entre sí. Si empiezan a desalinearse, afloja la ventosa de succión ligeramente y realinea los brazos.
-
-
-
Espera un minuto para darle oportunidad al adhesivo soltar y exponer un hueco de apertura.
-
Si tu pantalla no se esta calentando lo suficiente, puedes usar una secadora de cabello para calentar a lo largo del borde izquierdo de la iPad.
-
Inserta una púa de apertura debajo del digitalizador cuando el Anti-Clamp cree un huego lo suficientemente grande.
-
Salta el siguiente paso.
-
-
-
Una vez que la pantalla este caliente al tacto, aplica una manija de succión al borde izquierdo de la pantalla y lo más cercano al borde posible.
-
Levanta la pantalla con la manija de succión para crear un hueco pequeño entre el digitalizador y el marco.
-
Inserta una púa de apertura en el hueco entre el digitalizador y el marco.
-
-
-
Inserta una segunda púa de apertura en el hueco que acabas de crear.
-
Desliza la púa hacia la esquina izquierda inferior en el dispositivo para separar el adhesivo.
-
Deja la púa en la esquina inferior izquierda para prevenir que el adhesivo vuelva a sellar.
-
-
-
Calienta el IOpener y aplícalo al borde superior en el dispositivo por dos minutos.
-
-
-
Rota la púa alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda en el dispositivo para separar el adhesivo.
-
-
-
Desliza la púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior del dispositivo, deteniéndote justo antes de llegar la cámara frontal.
-
-
-
Calienta un iOpener y aplícalo al borde derecho del dispositivo por dos minutos.
-
-
-
-
Rota la púa alrededor de la esquina superior derecha del dispositivo para separar el adhesivo.
-
-
-
Inserta una nueva púa de apertura y deslízala hacia el centro del borde derecho del iPad.
-
-
-
Calienta el iOpener y aplícalo al borde inferior del dispositivo por dos minutos.
-
-
-
Desliza la púa den inferior izquierdo hacia la esquina inferior izquierda para separar el adhesivo.
-
Deja la púa en la esquina inferior izquierda antes de pasar al paso siguiente.
-
-
-
Inserta una nueva púa de apertura en el hueco que acabas de crear en el borde inferior del iPad.
-
Desliza la púa sobre la antena, deteniéndose antes del botón de inicio.
-
Deja la púa en la izquierda del botón de inicio antes de continuar.
-
-
-
Calienta un iOpener y aplícalo al borde derecho de tu dispositivo por dos minutos.
-
-
-
Mientras sostienes el digitalizador, desliza una púa de apertura entre los dos cables del display para separar lo que queda del adhesivo.
-
-
-
Quita los siguientes tornillos Phillips que sujetan la pantalla LCD.
-
Tres tornillos de 4.0 mm
-
Un tornillo de 4.8 mm
Use the provided replace screen case's square compartments to place your screws into as you remove them. Really helpful and you likely won't mess up.
I tape a stripe of double sided tape on my workbench. You can place the screws on the tape on the location where the screw would be if it was in the screen assembly. In this step, your screws would be in the four corners of the tape stripe, with the longest screw (4,8mm) in the upper left corner. The other screws from the next steps can also be placed on the tape this way.
**I believe you mean the “top Right corner” Is where the longer screw goes.. not left.
! went to Office World bought 4 packs of bluetac stuck them on a sheet of paper to give approximately size and shape of iPad put it in a flat cardboard box
Where can I buy these screws please ?
-
-
-
Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para sacar la pantalla LCD de su hueco lo suficiente como para agarrarla con los dedos.
-
Voltea el iPad LCD como una página en un libro, levanta cerca de la cámara y gíralo sobre el botón de inicio de la carcasa trasera.
-
Reposa la pantalla LCD sobre su superficie para permitir el acceso a los cables de la pantalla.
Got a cracked screen from toddler stepping on the iPad. My repair went well, everything worked. Except I scratched the LCD. It seems to scratch easily.
At this step, be careful when folding over the screen, as it may scratch on the aluminum frame (third picture). When they say “soft lint free surface” that is needed, specifically where the LCD meets the frame. Place a thin cloth like sunglass cleaning cloth over the edge of the frame.
Thank you, very much, for this tip.
At this step, possibly depending on date of manufacture, there may be black silicone present on/around the four screws that mount the display. It needs to be carefully scraped away and the two screw mount holes at the top of the screen pried up and away from the chassis. Between the chassis and the plastic portion of the mounting frame, there is a slim sheet of metal. Be sure to pry this off WITH the mounting frame. It is part of it. DO NOT try to separate it.
-
-
-
Quita el único tornillo Phillips de 2.3 mm que fija el conector de la batería a la placa lógica.
-
Desliza el bloqueador de la batería debajo del área del conector de la batería de la placa lógica y déjalo en su lugar mientras trabajas.
-
Si tienes problemas insertando el bloqueador de batería debajo de la placa lógica, puedes tratar de usar una carta de juego para desconectar la batería.
Not having the isolation pick, I used 2 thin guitar picks instead, which did the job fine.
I couldn't disconnect the battery connector - I applied some force, nothing happened and I was afraid of applying too much force - so I just left it connected and I was very careful not to short out any terminals with metal tools. I completed the repair without any other issues and the iPad now seems to be working fine.
Mine was missing. Made one with scissors but still didn't do the trick. I just worked with the batteries still plugged in.
Couldn’t get the battery terminal disconnected so I continued with repair. I didn’t short anything but now it won’t do anything. It worked before, just a cracked glass to replace. Any solutions?
Why do you say you didn’t short anything? Your result would seem to suggest otherwise
I don’t know if it applies to the iPad Air, but I saw elsewhere in my researches in reference to a iPad mini (or was it an iPod mini?) that disconnecting the LCD and/or digitizer with the battery still connected will blow a “fuse” for the backlight. Might yours still be working, just with no screen illumination whatsoever? Dunno. Just a thought.
It apparently can be repaired, but is no longer a DIY job.
Tim -
try lifting the board and not blocking the connector. If you block the connector there are pins that could be damaged.
A replacement of the battery connector is required if pins are bent should you get power on or charge issue after battery disconnection. This can be replaced with the right tools and low melt solder to remove the connector and replace.
Best method to disconnect battery is to carefully lift the logic board near the battery connector enough to slip a piece of thin plastic or paper between the batter connector and the logic board battery connector and pins.
Failing to isolate battery so can result in blown back light or touch filters or diodes in backlight circuit.
At the very least run down the battery flat prior to repair but you are really best to isolate battery.
From a repair point of view. This connector is a royal pain. For assembly it's great, well, nearly great.
This connector is SOLDERED to the motherboard side. Never lever this on the motherboard side, I will call it the right hand side. It will break leaving it's soldered pins behind. Yes I did it.
The pins, on the battery side of this connector, just rest on the batteries plated pads. They are kept under tension by the screw. It should be noted though that removal of the screw will not disconnect the connector pins from the battery pads. Natural tension is still present.
I suggest strongly that you take a look at the battery connector online to see the nature of the pins and you will see that some are quite delicate.
The tools purpose is to raise the battery side of the connector ; the left side, so there is some clearance between the pins and the batteries pads. If you have seen a picture of this connector then you will realise the potential of damage to this connector and will have a better idea of what to do.
Contd.
Lifting the connector and simultaneously sliding a thin piece of card or plastic under the pins should be done carefully. In fact, to minimise damage I just slid it under ONE of the main battery pins, plus or minus, which are in the middle and quite robust compared with the tiddlers on the side of the connector.
The second point, the battery and the motherboard have protection circuitry. When I broke my connector the battery dropped to 0.5V at the terminals. Connecting the charger, when all the connections were sound and not shorted raised it from the dead back to over 3.2V
I replaced the battery, and got things hooked backup. For the test, the screen came on, digitizer seemed to be functioning fine. But I couldn’t get it to charge. I used the i-fixit battery blocker by using my spooger to put a little up pressure on the board, and then sliding the blocker in. I don’t think I damaged the pins, but its possible. This is a friends ipad, and its obviously been dropped a few times. I started eye balling the charging port, it LOOKS ok, but looks can be deceiving. When plugged in, even trying different cables, the ipad is not showing the charging symbol. Some of the comments here seem to imply, if I damaged the battery connection pins, I would still get a charging symbol. My question is, if I damaged those battery connector pins, would the ipad show the charging icon or not? Should I be looking at replacing the charging port?
-
-
-
Quita los tres tornillos Phillips de 1.4 mm del soporte del cable de la pantalla.
Be careful when re-installing screws on reassembly. I mistakenly put the longer screw from the battery connector in the outboard hole, and wound up twisting off the lug that is only lightly soldered to the metal below. Still have 2 screws and system seems to work fine.
-
-
-
Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar suavemente el soporte del cable de la pantalla directamente desde la placa lógica.
bough my digitizer from ebay and have everything done up to this step. The screwdriver the kit came with said to be a #000 but it stripped the screw on the plate... I have tried rubber bands, tape and paper to no avail...anyone got an idea on how to remove the screw. Also I am currently studying in St. Kitts and they lack some products found in the US.
I'm sure you've moved past this by now, but I've had some success with stripped screws using a comparable, if slightly larger flathead screwdriver. The screwdrivers that come in those kits tend to suck quite a lot... iFixit actually has a guide for stripped screws: Cómo quitar un tornillo barrido
-
-
-
Quita la pantalla LCD.
Andddddd continue this iFix folks! It's not a matter of working backwards. Most people must have cracked screens and end up having to rip the screen off and won't have a chance to inspect connections.
He is far from complete…..if lcd is being replaced its probably because top screen is busted too. He didn’t show anything about how to remove the cables for that.
There is a separate guide for replacing the outer glass ;)
-
-
-
Quita cualquier cinta que cubra el conector del cable plano del botón de inicio.
I totally skipped steps 39-98 I didn’t see any need to remove all these components and the logic board just to get the battery out. I gently pried up the board where the battery connector goes in, slipped it out, and slipped in the new one.
That is a great tip. There is plenty of space inside the case to lever out the battery without taking out all of the components. I laid the iPad on top of a large bean bag, heated for 3 minutes in the microwave. After 4-5 minutes, I was able to lever out the battery with the spudger and the credit cards. It came out after a few minutes of careful levering and cramming the credit cards under the battery. I unscrewed the earphone connector and carefully taped it back to the iPad housing with paint tape to have more room to maneuver.
I second this.
Just be careful to make sure you don’t squish or tear any wires or anything else surrounding when you’re fighting with the batteries, and it’s still way easier than removing everything else in there first.
I’ll add one bit, though. The hole in the battery connector that accepts the screw through the logic board also apparently slips over a pin in which the screw seats. I couldn’t see that. So when I got the last bit of battery adhesive to let go, the pin tore out the battery connector hole. Since I was replacing the battery, it wasn’t a problem, but did produce a little conductive piece that I had to fish out before putting anything back together. Wouldn’t want that little torn out piece running around in there to short something out later.
Also, that pin will locate the battery correctly, so that in one of the last steps of reassembly, the battery connection screws together properly. Make sure you find it before the battery adhesive grabs on to the back of the case.
Tim -
Careful removing the tape. The home button has a zif connector and if you aren’t careful the tape can rip the zif flap right off. You might have to hold it down while you pull it off or pull the tape from a different direction to make sure you dont tear the zif tab off.
-
-
-
Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para voltear la pestaña del conector ZIF del cable plano del botón de inicio hacia arriba.
-
Quita con cuidado el cable plano del botón Home horizontalmente del conector ZIF.
I got through the repair, only to have the new screen give me problems that I can not find solutions to any where. The digitizer is working on its own without my input, it will start apps, switch windows, etc. I have pulled up the new screen and checked my ribbons and cables seem to be fine. ANY IDEAS??
Moses Roman
Same exact problem that I have. I think it has something to do with the glass touching the ipad. Something like on the iPad mini, where you had to cover some areas beside the home button.
I would love to see a real solution, as im stuck with unhappy customers and frustrated me :)
I had mine replaced TWICE by a local repair shop. Soon noticed both times that the iPad would soon go haywire after a few minutes use with random clicks, ghost typing, opening apps, etc.
The iPad Air's such a poor quality, un-durable product anyway. I only had my screen replaced in the first place because it cracked with no apparent drop or trauma and Apple wouldn't replace.
I have also the same issue, does anyone know what the problem is?
Please give us some feedback.
Have seen this with multiple repairs where the digitizer was replaced. In each case it was a problem with the digitizer cables where it gets tucked under the glass near the edge of the frame. Not yet sure if they are badly made digitizers or if the cable gets damaged trying to tuck it under frame during installation.
To avoid the digi sending the ipad crazy. In the same way you tape the copper/silver edges on the back of the glass for the iPad Mini. You tape all the way around, making sure not to dirty the protective cover when placing back down after taping one edge.
Make sure all the metal surround is cover by tape, but careful not too go over the edges too much. It will be visible when using the device.
Like i said earlier, the real skill is not too dirty the screen when lifting the protective sheet.
Have fun!
Thanks man, I'll give it a try. Any idea what kind of tape should I buy?
Kapton tape otherwise known as heat tape or polyamide tape
Just fitted the screen, the digitizer works, display all good but I had a message saying I could not use touch ID and the home button doesn’t work at all…is this expected?
I break the ZIF connector. Is tat touch connecter.?
How do you take the ribbon cable off from the home button site???
-
-
-
Usa el extremo plano de un spudger o una uña para sacar con cuidado los dos conectores del cable del digitalizador directamente desde sus enchufes.
What are those connectors for because i kinda half broke the left one on the screen on the glass frame and now the lcd wont turn on
-
-
-
Quita con cuidado el cable plano del botón de inicio del adhesivo que lo sujeta a la carcasa trasera.
THIS PICTURE IS PERFECT AND PERTANANT TO THE NEXT STEP REGARDING “GHOST OR PHANTOM TOUCH” - See that foam around the edges? For some reason, the ifixit replacement digitizer doesn’t come with it (but it does come with new adhesive applied already.) With your screen, also purchase their “tesa tape” : Tesa 61395 Tape / 4 mm - it comes in different widths fyi. I choose 4mm as advised by a staff member.
On the replacement screen I received from you, the home screen ribbon cable does not fully seat inside the Zif connector like the original and will not lock in place as a result. It seems too fat. Any tips to make it work?
I can’t think of any reason for that other than it’s the wrong display for your model, or it’s defective. Double-check the model very carefully and make sure you ordered/received a compatible part. If you ordered from iFixit, contact customer support directly for returns or exchanges. Good luck!
I didn’t receive any of the two sided tape…I assume it needed to be ordered separately??
So, when I removed the glass, the bottom cable tore and I have to replace it. The video is not as clear regarding replacement. The old button had a round rubber gasket but the new one does not. No inst. how to re-use it. I can’t attach and keep in place the new button.
In a previous repair, i broke the zif, what you want to do is hold it down while removing the tape, otherwise it will pull the parts up with it.
Since it was broke i put a piece of electrical tape on top for the pressure the zif would push down, then another piece from the screw hole to the bend in the cable, so it does not come loose when putting back together.
-
-
-
Quita el conjunto del panel frontal.
-
Si experimentas problemas de entrada táctil "fantasma" con tu nueva pantalla, esto se puede resolver agregando una capa de cinta aislante muy delgada, como la cinta Kapton (poliimida), a las áreas resaltadas en la parte posterior del panel . Los paneles iFixit vienen con el aislamiento adecuado y no deben requerir la adición de ninguna cinta.
In your conclusion, which doesn't have a comments area, you say to reverse the procedure - simple enough, BUT what about the sticky adhesive residue along the edges of the (a) the just-remove-glass (if re-using) and (b) along the 'inside' edges of the iPad chassis? Typically Apple says to remove the adhesive residue (careful) with alcohol wipes (lint free & 98% isopropyl). Thanks for the instructions!
the hardest part of this repair for me is actually aligning the ribbons (especially on the aftermarket version) so they don't jumble and cause the glass to mush away from the adhesive leaving a gap. Would would be very helpful to see how to fold the ribbon cables back on the aftermarket digitizers. They are slightly different than the originals, or at least they appear different. This repair is super useful but we could really use a step 44 because re-assembly has a sequence and a folding technique.
The ribbon cable is a little tricky to figure out. But if you look closely at the old ( Broken) screen you will see they stick to the underside of the screen thin the remaining ribbon slides down into the ipad between the display and ipads frame.
I used a heat gun and suction cups to loosen screen.
This was a very good ifix ii
This is what I need too!
It is not as simple as reverse disassembly steps, the ribbon cables need to be tucked into the pocket on the side of the iPad. There is tape on them that has to adhere to the side of the digitizer too. Mine did not make it all the way down into the gap, and stuck on the other adhesive, now I have a gap by these two cables. To tuck these into this area is difficult at best. I now need to remove the glass, hoping it does not shatter and purchase more tape.
Other than this the task was not bad.. BTW: YES People use the capton tape
I’ve read that people are putting glue at each corner. I haven’t figured out what glue. One person said Glue Dot 1” 16lb, another said rubber cement, 1 video shows 5 min epoxy… Heard that some sort of glue (not super glue) needs to be used to avoid the glass lifting later on. And to use 3m red tape along the edges. I’ve been searching for which glue because I still have an ipad air to do screen replacement on.
Would be helpful if the tape were listed in the master supplies for the guide. I got the whole kit overnighted, but then had to wait a week to get the tape from Amazon (since I wasn’t going to shell out another $50 for overnight shipping). Otherwise, it’d be nice to know if the displays through iFix it included the foam or not—mine didn’t.
Second the concern about the foam. I bought the full repair kit, but was surprised there wasn’t already polyimide tape on the digitizer or in the kit. At least mention that it needs to be purchased extra.
@baron9 The displays we sell have the proper insulation and don’t require any tape. That note is more for folks who use our guides while buying the parts from somewhere else. (They tend to complain here, even though it’s the part that’s at fault, not the guide.) I’ve updated the instructions to try to make things a little more clear. Sorry about that!
My digitizer kit from ifixit also looks like it is missing the polyimide tape on the digitizer. Can someone confirm that i do not need to get the tape with the original ifixit kit and just slap the digitizer on there?
Alex -
I did not realize that aftermarket screens (besides the one ifixit sells) do not come with adhesive strips. Well worth the time to figure out what kind of adhesive you’re going to use to re-adhere the glass before you begin. Stopping while you’re so close to the end of the repair (or having to open the ipad up again after the screen doesn’t stick back down) is slightly frustrating.
I used a b-7000. 48 h cure time.
Just wanna say thank you. I replaced my LCD and digitizer today…. took a LOT longer to get that adhesive off than I expected. And the IOpener busted in my microwave despite following all directions (eg only 30 sec at a time, out for at least 10 min before reheating. So that sucked. Turns out the rice in a sock worked pretty well too.
Regarding assembly: even with carefully tucking the ribbon cables down the side while reassembling, it’s still hard to get that area to stick down.
Some advice when reassembling that I have learned in the hard way.
One good hint is to those who buy replacement parts that are not exactly the original ones. Some of the parts come with a 3M adhesive tape on the tab of the flex cables (I guess original parts are already folded and glued). I would strongly recommend to be very careful when you try to glue it on the front panel and maybe watch a video on how to fold it properly, so as not to fold or pinch the flex cable on an unrepairable way. Also, some of the low cost parts come with a very strong protection sticker on the front glass. It is advisable that you peel off the sticker before reassembling the ipad in order to not end up ruining the glue that was supposed to hold the front panel .
-
-
-
Comienza suavemente a quitar el cable del botón de inicio de la parte posterior del panel frontal.
-
Continúa despegando hasta llegar al blindaje metálico del cable.
START using extreme caution at this point. This ribbon IS VERY FRAGILE, especially after the silver rectangle/shield. That gold piece is attached to the cable.
-
-
-
Despega suavemente el contacto de metal del soporte del botón de inicio.
So what exactly does this metal contact do? Can the HB work without that single gold contact?
Can anyone answer this question? The gold metal rectangle contact ripped off even horizontally with the rest of the home button cable. Do I need to order a whole new home button with cable? Or will I at least get functionality from the home button, only missing that little gold rectangle ?
PC Ops -
I ripped mine. Reattached the metal contact to the cable with some tape as best as I could. The button and touch ID work, so not sure if the metal contact is absolutely needed…? If it’s just for grounding?
EXTREME CAUTION!!! The little metal contact is very fragile. I ripped mine off. Well, when I say ripped I mean I breathed on it.
I would suggest maybe warming that part up before pulling and don’t just pull up from the main ribbon. Work it slowly.
CAUTION!!! that little gold contact got me too!! Please update the instructions to include this.
Did you find out if the home button still works without the rectangular gold contact?
PC Ops -
-
-
-
Usa una herramienta de apertura de plástico para levantar el soporte del botón de inicio de la parte posterior del panel frontal.
-
Una vez que hayas separado un lado del soporte del botón de inicio, sujeta firmemente el soporte y retíralo del panel frontal.
I'd recommend using something stronger than double sided tape. I completed this whole repair without too much lasting trouble, but the biggest issue was I didn’t get the home bracket secured firmly enough. A few weeks after the repair, the home button got pressed in and lodged under the hole cut for it, so I can’t unlock my iPad at all (the home button can’t be “pressed” in its current state). So I’m ordering a second screen and have to go through everything again. This time I’m using super glue to get that thing welded on there. If anything breaks in the future, I’m just getting a new iPad.
I don’t see why iFixit does not simply sell an optional iPad screen with a new home button pre-installed - other competing companies do it, and with iFixit’s pro reputation, having a pre-installed option would certainly be an excellent sales option. My 2¢ worth.
The home button that came with your iPad is the only one that will allow touchID to function. This is why this must be migrated from the old to the new screen. Of course, if your iPad does not have touchID, this is not a concern.
Robert -
TIP FOR HOME BUTTON REMOVAL
I found it to be simpler by using the same pry tool shown in the image and pry the tab furthest from the flex cable. Its an easy start knowing that if you damage the cable you can loose Touch ID permanently.
My steps were basically as follows in this specific order:
1. Using a guitar pick, release the cable from the adhesive and SLOWLY lift up the cable and the components with it
2. Once you reach the tabs that hold the home button in place, pry the tab furthest from the flex cable (this requires a little more force)
3. Once the tab furthest from the home button is lifted away, you can hold on to the metal piece (The whole tab) and lift it away safely.
4. Using your finger, press in the home button to release it from the glass and your done.
After replacement m home button works fine, but it’s very loose in the housing. I can tip it around by moving my fingers to the edges. Any ideas what I did wrong?
I had to use far more pressure to remove the bracket than I was comfortable with and when it came loose it went flying. Re-attaching is easy, but I used some hobby glue to secure it in place, so if the screen breaks again, that part is NOT coming off again. I’m guessing because I did this I don’t have the “depressed” issues that others have described, it seems to be like new at this point.
I agree, the bracket needs glueing when refitting. Replaced the glass on my iPad and after a couple of days the home button came loose and stopped working. Now i just broke the glass when opening the iPad to fix the home button bracket. I love my life! :-)
I used a piece of the rectangular section of an adhesive strip cut to the exact size of the home button bracket feet to reattach it to the digitizer for reassembly. It is very strong and worked better than double sided tape or glue.
agree. I did same. Also do not forget to remove protective film from the inner side of the new digitizer. Do it before you start reassembly.
-
-
-
Presiona el botón de inicio desde el lado externo del digitalizador para romper el adhesivo que lo mantiene en su lugar.
Are these last several steps necessary in just replacing the front glass panel that is cracked? my ipad is a wi-fi only
Yes, even if you’re only replacing the front glass panel, you still have to transfer your original home button from the old panel to the replacement. Even if the new panel comes with a new home button, Touch ID will only work with the original home button.
Buy an extra home button adhesive gasket. The adhesive from the original will not be reusable
I second this advice. I skipped it the first time, and the home button was too wiggly (although it worked). Now that I’ve replaced the screen a 2nd time (ugh), this time adding a new gasket, it’s a bit more firm, but still more wiggly than originally. If you don’t mind the button being lose, you probably can reuse the gasket, but if I have to do this again, I’ll probably get another gasket.
Yep, tore mine even as delicate as could be. I would highly recommend hitting the home button with a heat gun prior to attempting to remove. On the plus side, the replacement gaskets are cheap and easy enough to replace.
My screen was damaged in such a way that removing the old gasket didn't tell me how to install the new one.
I completed the reassembly of my digitizer. the process was pretty simple. After reviewing all the feedback and issues mentioned by others, I made sure to properly attach the home button/touch ID to my new screen by carefully installing it and ensuring the gasket was firmly in place. I used a small amount of liquid glue to secure the bracket as well. While everything is working correctly, I did notice that my repair kit came with a new bracket and home button gasket (with adhesive on the parts I used glue- I assume) lol. I clearly didn't utilize that… do you think I’ll be okay? I just hope I won't need to redo the whole process again just for the home button. 🤦🏻♀️ I don’t know how I missed that little baggie…
-
-
-
Quita el conjunto del botón de inicio.
Nicely done!
Be very careful !!!!
Given the delicacy of this stage, I believe it behooves iFixit to offer a panel replacement option with a new Home button pre-installed.
Others do; with iFixit’s reputation, such a purchase option would be a welcome, stellar addition to its inventory. Yes, you would have to cancel your Touch-ID setting prior to repair, but that’s a small inconvenience to having to negotiate such a procedure. My 2¢ worth.
Thanks, iFixit, for the excellent instructions
I second this - tore the home button cable during disassembly and ordered another home button assembly just to figure out that I need the gasket and holder as well as it was not included. -
Yes - the metal contact on the home button tore… now I have to figure out how to do another repair. Also, my replacement screen comes with plastic on both sides and multiple tabs in different colors. Now I’m too scared to remove those for fear of ripping something.. you should have glass replace directions here too.
Hi sir
Iam try replace ditigizer on iPad 6th gen
Will my home button and finger print if I replace the home to another the home button will if I buy it from you guys
replaced the display with new home button assembly, new gasket, and holder - button works but fingerprint sensor not anymore - It would be great to have detailed instructions for the complete the home button assembly with all the different parts, not only the teardown for reference. - i.e. it seems you need to push the button through the gasket before assembly so the cable leaves inside and the order is glass-button-gasket-holder.
The article explicitly states that the Home Button and the Motherboard are a BONDED PAIR. If you replace one without the other, Touch ID will stop working. This is why the instruction say you have to retain the button.
While I’m a fairly tech savvy person, telling people to reverse the steps is ridiculous—you need to show people what to expect. Second, include the home button on the new screen sale. I’m in the middle of the repair at this point, I’ve given you $100 and this seriously frustrating, especially when the home button you sell (which I had to buy after the screen, because I inadvertently tore off a bit) DOESN”T include the proper adhesive. PS—trying to get the adhesive on the new button is a practice in torture.
I had to notch out the glass adhesive just slightly where bottom right corner of the home button bracket sits against it. It is curved and needed to be squared off to match the bracket. I held the ribbon cable, button and bracket in place with tape before I glued the bracket. I also used a flashlight behind the bracket and button gap to see that the bump on the bracket was lined up with the button’s switch.
I'm quite disappointed the fact that this is a replacement guide but does not include re-assembly steps.
We ordered a new home button and gasket for an iPad 5, which works with the iPad 6 home button as well.
Neither guide has re-assembly instructions for the home button.
My customer service is important and I would like to see better guides that include disassembly and reassembly steps.
I need to know how to properly apply a home button gasket to the home button.
If I am missing something, please let me know.
PS. It's not good practice to use metal tools so close to the main board. An insolated pair would be more ideal.
The small black dot on the home button microswitch comes off no matter how careful you are. Home button will not work properly if you loose the black dot. I have done 5-6 repairs and on 4 of them the black dot just fell off. I have been successful using a small piece of Kapton tape and reinstalling the black dot in the center of the home button microswitch.
I also removed a metal ring that sits between the gasket and the glass. It has the same shape of the gasket, and it’s glued to the glass after removing the home button assembly. Used a thin double-sided tape with strong glue when reassembling; maybe B7000 glue would be easier.
It's so frustrating seeing these guides that just say “follow these steps in the reverse order" when I'm really searching for a technique and guidance on replacing the rubber gasket and and proper placement of the bracket so it clicks as it should and doesn't sink in.
Agree with previous comments. Would be helpful to go over replacing the button gasket, and the actual reassembly instead of just ‘reverse order’.
it would be nice to see how to re assemble when to pull backing off glue, how to add grommet, how to bend new wires in place to seat correctly
Would I be able to use the new replacement home button as to go back to home page? Or is it just going to he for the decoration?
I needed 6 hours for
1) removing the cracked display glass with a scalpell,
2) to remove the glue with glue remover,
3) to install a new home button (because I cutted the homebutten flex-cable) and
4) to glue the touchdisplay (digitizer) with T7000 diplay glue!!!. The delivered glueband on the digitizer shouldn't be used, because it is to weak.
There is a HowTo missing to install a new home button. I also didn't found a new homebutton from iFixit. So I had to buy it somewere else.
-
Para volver a reensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en sentido inverso.
Para volver a reensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en sentido inverso.
Cancelar: No complete esta guía.
194 personas más completaron esta guía.
Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:
100%
Estos traductores nos están ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›
32 comentarios
Very nice!!!
The 1st Gen iPad Air and iPad 5th Gen are virtually the same minus the touch ID
The 6th gen ipad has support for the Apple Pencil, whereas the 5th ipad doesn’t, so I don’t think that the 5th gen screen will work on a 6th gen ipad. iFixit sells a 6th gen screen for only a few bucks more than the 5th gen, so I would use that one.
Excellent tutorial! Precise, well written, and great pictures.
OK so this might be nitpicking, repair was successful. Doing the process in reverse order, not quite accurate. The reverse order does not take into account the various shield plastic covers applied to keep everything clean. After you’ve re-installed the connectors and the various cables and installed the LCD. be sure to clean that puppy thoroughly under a bright light. I missed a tiny smudge at the bottom edge and it’s driving me nuts. The new digitizer cables are quite stiff and it takes some effort to get them in position without getting your fingers stuck to the adhesive while you’re working. The adhesive cover strip on the side of the cables is a bit tricky to remove as it is hindered by the conncted cables. Removing it first makes manipulating the digitizer assembly digfficult without messing up the adhesive. If you dont get the cables tucked away well the screen wont keep that edge down. Great teardown guide but the reassembly could use a few steps or just a note about tricks to get it done smoothly.
I’ll second this. Some additional detail on this part of the reassembly would help immensely.
Agreed. This should be mentioned, I had the same issue.
Robert -
Agree that there needs to be a reassembly manual.
- On my digitizer, the dust film conflicted with the positioning of the digitizer cable. I had to temporarily peel the film up in order to have a clear area to stick the cable down
- I stuck my home button cable to the dust film as well, in error, so finally, I peeled up that bottom quarter of the film and held it out of the way with tape, while I repositioned the digitizer and home button cables
- The digitizer adhesive interfered with the home button bracket, forcing it to be a little too far up. In hindsight, I should have peeled the adhesive backing from the home button bracket area and positioned the bracket a bit lower, instead of chickening, bock bock bock
- Peeling the left adhesive backing, then inserting the digitizer top left and then bottom left, then peeling the right adhesive backing and gently pushing the digitizer and home button cables in with a spudger before adhering top right and bottom right is absolutely necessary
Some important things to do before and during re-assembly with a new digitizer:
1. Clean out ALL remaining glue/duct tape from the frame (I use a cotton swab and some gasoline)!
2. Check for sufficient duct tape on your new digitizer
3. Check to sufficiently insulate the conductor tracks (the bronze lining) on your new digitizer or you’ll most likely have ghost movements after re-assembly. E.g. insulation tape
4. Keep some super glue gel (NOT the liquid - use the GEL) ready and apply some shortly before re-assambly on the right side of the frame where the cables connect the digitizer to the Logicboard => The tape area is most likely too small on this edge to create an efficient enough bonding. The stiff cables often push the digitizer from the inside. To be safe so your new glas wont lift up, apply the superglue gel in this area.
5. After re-assembly heat the frame along the edges with a heatgun and use clips to hold the glas down with some pressure. Let it cool out with the clips on so the glue/tape bonds nicely.
Anybody using super glue on their repairs needs to have their hands slapped… If the mounting surfaces are properly cleaned, prepped and primed, the original style adhesive will bond the screen to the housing adequately. When super glue is used, it contaminates the mounting surface, preventing the adhesive to bond properly on any future repairs where the tech wants to do the repair properly. To prevent lifting near the flex cable, manipulate the thick part of flex so that it is curled in a bit - this will allow the flex to slide into its given area and prevent it from pushing up on the glass and breaking the adhesive bond.
Excellent tutoriel. Tout est expliqué TRÈS précisément, étape par étape. Mon chien avait explosé l’écran en milliers de paillettes . Le démontage m’a pris 3 heures en prenant mon temps et en étant extrêmement minutieux. Une lampe grossissante du type qu’utilise les pêcheurs à la mouche en montage est un vrai plus. L’avantage de ce tutoriel, c’est qu’il explique par très petites étapes et plein de photos précises et riches en renseignements, le mode opératoire sans rien oublier. Les mêmes peuvent donc servir pour le montage et le démontage. Un conseil, tester l'écran avant de le coller car emporter dans l’action, je l’ai fait. Il a fallu que je le décolle à nouveau pour vérifier d’ou venait le souci. En conclusion, de tous les tutoriels que j’ai pu utilisés jusqu’à aujourd’hui, c’est le mieux détaillé et le plus précis. Félicitations à son Créateur avec un grand C.
“To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order” is the kind of cop-out you’d find in a Chilton’s or Haynes auto repair manual, and not the exact methods and procedures, including tips for tucking tricky ribbon cables, that you’d find in a service or technical manual.
I have white lines at the top of my screen following reassembly. I think these come from the LCD. Is there a fix?
Hello
Huh…. this is a headache….
Because I didn’t know that I need the original Home button somehow I damaged it.
So… somebody could tell me, what is my solution in my case, please?
As I see, I can’t buy a home button from 3rd parties with the Touch ID?
Is that correct?
Option 1 To buy it somewhere.
If not somebody could share where I can buy it, please.
Option 2 To get it maybe from an iPad that not working or as we knew it iPad for parts.
If yes, from which iPad i can take it? For sure 5th which other iPad have the same part as in the iPad 5 gen?
-Great tutorial - took about 2.5 hours and works great.
-For those of you with a very cracked digitizer or one on which the suction cup otherwise won’t work (like mine), these are my suggestions:
1) cover the glass with clear packing tape so shards don’t get everywhere 2) heat up as directed, 3) use an xacto knife or razor blade to get under the edge of the glass in the spots directed for the pick, pry up with the knife, and put the pick in. Proceed as directed from there. In the “safe areas” you can use the knife to cut the adhesive as well, as an #11 xacto blade isn’t long enough to penetrate beyond the bezel.
-Getting the connectors reseated was the most nerve wracking part - they are hard to line up without any reference.
-The iFixit screen replacement has clear plastic tabs to remove. The order these should be removed in was not clear.
-The digitizer cables tend to get bunched under the right side of the digitizer, try to get these folded down and flattened before the final assembly.
Worked well for me.
Great tutorial. Not as hard as I thought it would be. I used a hairdryer as heat. I should have coughed up a few more bucks for the iopener. I had no luck with using tape to get suction on a cracked screen like I have done successfully on an iPhone. After a ton of heat I used a razor blade to peel up the digitizer edge and go from there with picks. You should also wear safety glasses as chips flew everywhere.
The worst part was cleaning the old glue and cleaning the screen before installing the new digitizer. Also those antennas at the bottom of the iPad are a bit fragile. I did not touch them with picks but I did damage one during cleaning of old adhesive. Seems to work fine though.
EDIT - I agree the guide could have used some tips for reassembly. The ribbon cables are a bit tricky to get folded in there and the adhesive complicated things. Also there is a clear protector on the inside of the digitizer.
What a waste of time and money. Had to break so much of it just to get the shattered glass out. Made everything worse. Had to do a separate order to get a new home button. Should have just got it repaired by someone. I Probably made it worse.
I just finished this repair, and the biggest issue I had was removing the screen because it was so cracked. I could not follow any of the instructions for the removal of the screen as I could not get a suction cup to grip along the side, and when I tried applying clear packing tape or duct tape, the tape just pulled off the screen instead.
One part I do not like about the “To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.” line is there are a few points that could use some info when putting it back together. There is no comment about the adhesive strip across the flex cables and how it is supposed to bend over.
Great guide, I’ve done 6 or 8 of these now, each one gets a little better. The trickiest part for me is getting the bracket and digitizer cables just right. My one question is what type of adhesive are people using for the home button bracket? After you remove it from the old panel, it’s definitely not sticky enough, and I don’t feel double sided tape is strong enough either. I’m looking for something like Apple uses on the newer iPads for the bracket where they put the adhesive around the outside of it.
the ribbon cable on side is too thick , it is preventing the front panel from fitting properly , has anyone encountered this issue and able to fix it ?
You can get it into side takes a bit of fiddling but it's porssible had some trouble with that as well but be careful and at some point you can fell that it falls a bit deeper in and you can then press it down slowly and carefully. if the stribs are not blocked from the cover or lcd panel.
P H -
Hi there, I was wondering if you could actually make the reverse instruction steps a thing, so it's easier to reassemble. Thanks!
(Please everyone use safety glasses during disassembly. Prevented glass shatters in my one remaining good eye!)
Hi all,
I need some advice. I’m at step 28 where the guide says “Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws”. Instead of just peeling back a small part, I wrongly removed the entire tape, all around the display 😬 I don’t know what got into me, but after spending several hours on removing the broken digitizer I got a little enthusiastic by the ease of this removal.
So my question is: Should I replace the tape? And if so with what? And why was it there anyway?
Another question: there’s a thick layer of the residue from the old digitizer tape. How to best remove it? Using IPA and a cotton swab takes ages and forces some glue down in the frame.
Third question: how to best clean the display? There’s some sticky debris on it.
(Why it took me so long: the glass was broken a lot and to small pieces. Also repairing in 2D instead of 3D takes ages. Also I did not heat enough. I learnt not to stress and it helps!)
Answered here 😃 😃
Jannn -
How does the home button go back on?
Mine does not fit and I have an extra ring with adhesive on it.
