Introducción
Sigue esta guía para sustituir la batería de tu iPad 5 LTE.
Antes de empezar, descarga la batería de tu iPad por debajo del 25% de carga. Esto minimizará el riesgo de una peligrosa fuga térmica en caso de que accidentalmente pinches o deformes la batería.
Las baterías de iones de litio contienen sustancias químicas peligrosas y pueden incendiarse y explotar si se perforan o manipulan incorrectamente. Tenga cuidado.
Algunas partes de esta guía se grabaron con un modelo Wi-Fi y, por lo tanto, las partes internas pueden parecer ligeramente diferentes a las del modelo LTE. El procedimiento es el mismo para ambos modelos excepto donde se indique lo contrario.
Advertencia: el método de aislamiento de la batería en esta guía es obsoleto, y puede resultar en daños irreversibles a los pines de la batería de la placa lógica, destruyendo efectivamente. Si decides aislar la batería de esta manera, presta atención a todas las advertencias y trabaja con extremo cuidado. Si decide completar la guía sin aislar la batería, evita utilizar herramientas metálicas excepto cuando sea completamente necesario (como al quitar tornillos) para evitar cortocircuitar la batería y dañar componentes sensibles del circuito.'''
Qué necesitas
-
-
Calienta el iOpener y aplícalo al borde izquierdo en el dispositivo por dos minutos.
-
-
-
Mientras estas esperando a que se afloje el dispositivo, nota que las siguientes áreas son sensibles al palanqueo:
-
Cámara frontal
-
Antenas
-
Cables del display
-
-
-
Jala el mango azul hacia atrás para desbloquear los brazos del Anti Clamp.
-
Coloca un objeto debajo de tu iPad para que repose a nivel de las ventosas de succión.
-
Posiciona las ventosas de succión cerca del centro del borde izquierdo--una arriba, y una abajo.
-
Sostén el inferior del Anti-Clamp firmemente y presiona hacia abajo en la ventosa superior para aplicar succión.
-
-
-
Jala el mango azul hacia el frente para bloquear los brazos.
-
Gira el mango en sentido horario 360 grados o hasta que la ventosa empiece a estirarse.
-
Asegúrate que la ventosa de succión queden alineadas entre sí. Si empiezan a desalinearse, afloja la ventosa de succión ligeramente y realinea los brazos.
-
-
-
Espera un minuto para darle oportunidad al adhesivo soltar y exponer un hueco de apertura.
-
Si tu pantalla no se esta calentando lo suficiente, puedes usar una secadora de cabello para calentar a lo largo del borde izquierdo de la iPad.
-
Inserta una púa de apertura debajo del digitalizador cuando el Anti-Clamp cree un huego lo suficientemente grande.
-
Salta el siguiente paso.
-
-
-
Una vez que la pantalla este caliente al tacto, aplica una manija de succión al borde izquierdo de la pantalla y lo más cercano al borde posible.
-
Levanta la pantalla con la manija de succión para crear un hueco pequeño entre el digitalizador y el marco.
-
Inserta una púa de apertura en el hueco entre el digitalizador y el marco.
-
-
-
Inserta una segunda púa de apertura en el hueco que acabas de crear.
-
Desliza la púa hacia la esquina izquierda inferior en el dispositivo para separar el adhesivo.
-
Deja la púa en la esquina inferior izquierda para prevenir que el adhesivo vuelva a sellar.
-
-
-
Calienta el IOpener y aplícalo al borde superior en el dispositivo por dos minutos.
-
-
-
Rota la púa alrededor de la esquina superior izquierda en el dispositivo para separar el adhesivo.
-
-
-
Desliza la púa de apertura a lo largo del borde superior del dispositivo, deteniéndote justo antes de llegar la cámara frontal.
-
-
-
Calienta un iOpener y aplícalo al borde derecho del dispositivo por dos minutos.
-
-
-
Rota la púa alrededor de la esquina superior derecha del dispositivo para separar el adhesivo.
-
-
-
Inserta una nueva púa de apertura y deslízala hacia el centro del borde derecho del iPad.
There are sensitive display/digitizer cables no less than five inches from the bottom edge of the iPad. Insert the pick further down than this, or deeper than 1mm beyond this point and you risk irreparably damaging these cables.
Three inches is much too far down this side of the iPad to use picks.
-
-
-
Calienta el iOpener y aplícalo al borde inferior del dispositivo por dos minutos.
-
-
-
Desliza la púa den inferior izquierdo hacia la esquina inferior izquierda para separar el adhesivo.
-
Deja la púa en la esquina inferior izquierda antes de pasar al paso siguiente.
-
-
-
Inserta una nueva púa de apertura en el hueco que acabas de crear en el borde inferior del iPad.
-
Desliza la púa sobre la antena, deteniéndose antes del botón de inicio.
-
Deja la púa en la izquierda del botón de inicio antes de continuar.
-
-
-
Calienta un iOpener y aplícalo al borde derecho de tu dispositivo por dos minutos.
-
-
-
Mientras sostienes el digitalizador, desliza una púa de apertura entre los dos cables del display para separar lo que queda del adhesivo.
-
-
-
Una vez que todo el adhesivo ha sido separado, abre el digitalizador como un libro y déjalo paralelo al iPad.
While reassembling, REALLY make sure the display cables and the home button cable won't be folded / bent while closing the digitizer. I'm not exactly sure what I did, but I broke the home button and touch ID since I bent the home button cable to the point that it broke. These ribbon cables are SUPER fragile.
-
-
-
Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para sacar el LCD de su hueco, justo lo necesario para agarrarlo con tus dedos.
-
Voltea el LCD del iPad como una página de un libro, levantando cerca de la cámara y girándolo sobre el lado del botón de inicio de la carcasa trasera.
-
Reposa el LCD sobre su cara para acceder a los cables de la pantalla.
Pictures that better indicate the difference between the remaining adhesive and the two mylar cables (the very cables you are trying to avoid damaging!) would be much appreciated. On my unit the two were very hard to distinguish
-
-
-
-
Quita el único tornillo Phillips de 2.3 mm que sujeta el conector de la batería a la placa lógica.
-
Deja el bloqueador allí para evitar que los cables del conector de la batería hagan contacto hasta que haya terminado las reparaciones.
The could recommend me since I did not put the wedge first in the connection of the battery and it heated the logic card a couple of minutes, q´l recommend to solve it since it does not turn on
The battery isolation pick didn’t come with my kit. I made my own using one of the regular picks and a pair of scissors.
Would it not be important to note that you are not really “disconnecting” the conduit of the battery from the logic board, but rather isolating the connection?
@dlcatftwin I’m not sure I understand the distinction you’re making. You are fully disconnecting the battery, by opening the circuit and wedging a big insulator in there to keep it from closing again accidentally.
Hello Jeff,
Thank you for responding. one may regard “disconnecting” as actually unplugging or unsocketing a cable connection as actually disconnecting, like in step 37. I could picture a person tugging on the pick thinking that the battery connector actually had to be lifted away from the board.
Probably over-thinking it! ;-)
Regards,
DLC
@dlcatftwin 100% on point. That’s exactly why I’m reading this comment right now. I’ve never heard of a “Battery Isolation Pick” and I was trying to get the connector loose, before realizing it wasn’t coming easy and therefore reading the comments for more info.
Ergo, there is some confusion here that should be noted in the primary instructions.
-
-
-
Quita los tres tornillos Phillips de 1.4 mm que sujetan el soporte del cable de la pantalla.
-
-
-
Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar suavemente el soporte del cable de la pantalla directamente desde la placa lógica.
My iPad Air2 is configured differently from that in these photos. The battery connector is next to the display cable connection, and the LCD/glass panel are integral, so that they lift out of the frame together.
-
-
-
Retira la cinta adhesiva que cubre el conector del cable plano del botón de inicio.
-
-
-
Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar la lengüeta del conector ZIF del cable plano del botón de inicio.
-
Extrae con cuidado el cable plano del botón de inicio del conector ZIF.
On reassembly take note of the flap lock on that connection. Sadly I failed to operate it correctly and now have a defunct home button.
-
-
-
Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger o una uña para sacar con cuidado los dos conectores del cable digitalizador de sus enchufes.
When reversing with the new screen , this was the hardest part for me.
The cables needs to fit under the LCD screen, and they kept going out of place when I tried to close the screen in the end.
That meant that I had to remove the LCD again with one hand while holding the digitizer/glass with the other - all while I had already exposed the adhesives.
for me the cables of the new screen were longer that the old one. So even if i put everithing under the lcd, the digitizer didnt close properly. After everything was put back togheter, this side of the digitizer keep popping out.
I do have the same problem.
Anne -
In step 41 - what is the name of the connector in the first picture which he is trying to open
It is a ZIF socket. (Zero insertion force)
Zach -
-
-
-
Retira el conjunto del panel frontal.
-
Si experimenta problemas de entrada táctil "fantasma" o "fantasma" con su nueva pantalla, esto puede resolverse añadiendo una capa de cinta aislante muy fina, como Cinta Kapton (poliimida), en las zonas resaltadas de la parte posterior del panel. Los paneles iFixit vienen con el aislamiento adecuado, y no deberían requerir la adición de ninguna cinta.
After removing the glass, I'd suggest scraping off any remaining black adhesive off of the iPad's frame. Get every speck. This may be time consuming if you have lost glass integrity and have sticky, splintered shards around the edge of the frame, but you need the frame completely clean of adhesive before you put the new front panel down or else it won't lay correctly in the frame.
This was not as hard as I expected it. I think I was lucky since the adhesive wasn’t properly working anymore, and my display wasn’t too shattered. Took me a about 40 minutes to remove the display. Unfortunately I noticed that my battery had expanded so ordered a new one, waiting for it to arrive before I put it all back together.
-
-
-
Utiliza unas pinzas para despegar y retirar el trozo de cinta adhesiva que cubre el conector del cable de la placa SIM en la placa lógica.
-
-
-
Retira los siguientes tornillos que fijan el soporte superior del cable del componente:
-
Dos tornillos Phillips de 2,0 mm
-
Tres tornillos Phillips de 1,4 mm
-
-
-
Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el conector de la cámara frontal de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
-
-
-
Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar suavemente el cable plano de la toma de auriculares de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
-
Una vez más, empuja con cuidado este segundo cable plano a un lado para revelar más conectores debajo.
There is tape on the LTE model adhering this socket to the frame underneath.
-
-
-
Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para desconectar el cable de interconexión de la antena celular primaria de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
I accidentally broke the 's' interconnector. where can I buy the replace? Or can i use something similar ? F.e. old antenna in other iphone ? Thank you !
-
-
-
Utiliza el extremo plano de un spudger para doblar suavemente el soporte del cable de interconexión de la antena celular primaria hacia arriba y fuera del camino.
I accidentally broke the 's' interconnector. where can I buy the replace? Or can i use something similar ? F.e. old antenna in other iphone ? Thank you !
-
-
-
Saca el conector Lightning de su alojamiento en la carcasa trasera.
Remove the two screws from the inside of the connector first!
Hi George, thanks for pointing that out. I believe the screws you’re talking about are removed in step 70, is that correct? Let us know if we missed some screws!
-
-
-
Recalienta el iOpener en el microondas durante 30 segundos.
-
Coloca el iOpener calentado en el centro de la parte trasera del iPad. Déjalo reposar así por 90 segundos para ablandar el adhesivo de la batería.
-
Mueve el iOpener a la derecha (lejos de la cámara trasera), y deja el iOpener reposar por otros 90 segundos.
-
Finalmente, mueve el iOpener al borde derecho del iPad for 90 segundos.
-
-
-
Inserta una tarjeta de plástico debajo de la celda inferior de la batería, en la esquina inferior derecha.
Did you skip Step 46 through 100, then this is for you: Because the logic board is still in, you will have less space to loosen the battery pack. Be extra careful not to bend it. Work from the sides that are more accessible like in Step 113 and slowly work your way underneath the battery pack to loosen it all over. As I was loosening the battery I had the heated iOpener underneath the part I was working on. This really helped a lot. And be patient. You do not want to force it.
First of all, thanks @marcelflueeler and everyone else who gave advice on skipping ahead. This is definitely the way to go if you're just changing a battery! Once you've unstuck the battery you'll find you can't pull it out because it's stuck at the terminal though. Don't try and force it here! You'll need to return to step 88 and soften the logic board adhesive so you can pry it up about a cm, then you can lift the battery terminal up and over the locking post that's holding it in place. I didn't realise this and broke a piece of plastic off the old battery terminal, which got lodged under the logic board and prevented a good battery contact until I realised and retrieved it.
-
-
-
Sujeta ambas tarjetas firmemente y gíralas para levantar la batería de la carcasa trasera.
-
Quita la batería de la carcasa trasera.
Finally done !
It took me nearly 3hrs, but i finally made it. Thanks for the great instructions
REASSEMBLY TIPS:
The adhesive strips that come with the iFixit battery have no labels to say which goes where. Look at them carefully and one side has a blue protective cover that runs the length of each strip. This faces up and is to be removed at the last moment when you’re ready to stick the screen down permanently. One strip has a narrowed section in the long length to clear the glass touch screen cables, so stick this one down first to avoid mistakes.
Before removing the protective strips, close the touch screen and boot the iPad. Test both cameras, wifi and speakers. (I found the rear facing camera connector hadn’t bedded properly which was easily fixed). Clean the screen and remove dust from LCD before bedding in touch screen.
The iFixit site has updated battery calibration instructions which differ from the card packed with the battery:
Charge it to 100% and keep charging it for at least 2 more hours.
Then use your device until it shuts off due to low battery.
Finally, charge it uninterrupted to 100%.
Great tip to boot the iPad before removing the adhesive from the battery. There are quite a few comments here about faulty batteries. Fortunately, mine worked just fine.
The iFixit battery replacement kit worked great! The repair guide is very good also. So glad I didn’t just try buying the battery. While testing everything after finishing the battery replacement, the digitizer, volume controls and the sleep button did not work. I was very happy when I went back in and found the cable connections had just come loose. My wife couldn’t believe I fixed her iPad.
The guide was pretty good but a few comments:
I didn’t liked the iOpener that much. I used an heat gun with good temperature control instead.
Any advice on how to remove the old glue residu would have been welcome. I used a combination of physical scraping and cleaning afterward with isopropyl alcohol.
An extra guide on how to apply the new adhesive strips would also be nice.
Fixed!....The guide is very clear and well laid out. I also had issues with the iOpener not working, I needed more heat, used heat gun with temp control. Also used floss to remove the logic board. Would have appreciated more clearer instructions on adding the adhesive strips.....Thanks
The iOpener is really bad. It isnt hot enough to keep the iPad that cools down to roomtemperature in a few seconds. I used an hair dryer which was also not warm enough but at least made it warm enough to create a gap where I was able to fit my pics under. Unfortunately my Digitizer still died. Battery works but I cannot turn off my iPad now lol
Very good guide to a very tedious project! Thank you for the detailed description of the digitizer separation. I didn’t sever any cables. The iOpener isn’t bad; it’s just too small. This project really requires the Anti-clamp, the acetone/isopropanol adhesive softener, and a heat gun that can be used at a low heat setting. I didn’t try a hair dryer, but I think that it might be too windy. Like other fixers,I skipped steps 47 thru 100 something and took my chances manhandling the battery. I opted to insulate the digitizer with Kapton tape. I only have a wide roll of Kapton, so I stuck it to the stiff plastic backing for the battery, then cut narrow strips and peeled them off the backing. Finally, I’d like to see a show of hands of the people who forgot to put in the four corner screws for the display. Maybe I’m the only one …
I successfully replaced the battery in my A1954. But I stopped at step 40 and then I just pried the old battery with the plastic cards that came with the new battery and some isopropyl alcohol. Next step I pried the logic board upwards with a blue pick around the screw area. The board needs to flex upwards more than you're comfortable with in order to make room for the new battery connector to slide underneath the pick but over the screw hole underneath the logic board. I dint't really feel like gutting the entire housing of all the parts but I was risking damaging both the logic board and the new battery. So do it at your own risk.
-
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue las instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue las instrucciones en orden inverso.
Cancelar: No complete esta guía.
10 personas más completaron esta guía.
Un agradecimiento especial a estos traductores:
100%
¡ Mariana Roca nos está ayudando a reparar el mundo! ¿Quieres contribuir?
Empezar a traducir ›
2 comentarios
The battery replacement went off without a hitch, I’ll be honest, at step 50 I started to look at things with a real tech eye. I stopped disconnecting and removing components and took my hairdryer to the back, the battery came up quite easily so I stopped, popped in the new battery right then. After reconnecting everything, using iso to clean the lcd and inside glass, I “dry fit” everything back together, powered it up… nice. Completed new adhesive install and all is good.
Great tutorial, but if you have a good tech background, you can knock off an hour and do it in just over an hour. PS - Hair dryer is a must - take your time on this, once you get past the initial opening of the left side, the rest is a breeze.
