Introducción
Esta guía te ayudará a reemplazar la fuente de alimentación.
Qué necesitas
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Coloca una ventosa para trabajos pesados cerca de cada una de las dos esquinas superiores del panel de vidrio.
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Mientras sujetas ligeramente la ventosa contra el vidrio, levanta la manija móvil hasta que quede paralela con la otra manija (como se indica en la tercera imagen).
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Levanta suavemente el panel de vidrio perpendicular a la cara de la pantalla LCD, lo suficiente para despejar las clavijas de montaje de acero unidas a lo largo de la parte inferior del borde superior del panel de vidrio.
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Tira del panel de vidrio desde el borde inferior del iMac y cuidadosamente déjelo a un lado.
you should do this mac up, because, for me, one of the suction cup failed, and the glass fall into the lcd screen. Now there is a big hole in it...
do you still have this panel?
Reassembly: After powering on and running for a few minutes, found a large whitish patch on the screen. Persists after powerdown.
Turned out to be condensation, though it didn't look like it - more like fine white powder rubbed in. Humidity is very high this time of the year. Fix: start airconditioner in a room, leave it running a while, take iMac in, prise open the glass again. Condensation vanishes instantly. Keep it out for a ~15 minutes running infinite loops to get iMac nicely heated up and fans running. Snap glass back.
I used a Swiffer dry cloth to get all the dust off the screen while just blowing with my mouth at a steep angle. I know I didn't get every speck, but the screen looks perfect once assembled and lit again. Removing the glass from the screen is pretty easy if you need to re-clean it.
I used a microfiber cloth instead, which worked well. The same type as yo use to clean eye glasses, but in a larger form factor.
Daniel -
The Swiffer idea worked great! I just brush it over the LCD and glass panel lightly, and all dust particles are gone quickly. The screen after boot up looked beautiful. Thanks!
dtsai2 -
I didn't crack the screen, but it popped out of the shims and then popped back in, as if the glass edge is magnetic or has steel in it to connect to magnets. Be careful with this step — it is pretty nerve-wracking, but doable!
You need a big clean surface free, or at least 2 or more free surfaces because the iMac, the glass and the LCD display are quite bulky. You'll also probably need space for a tablet or a laptop to read this guide while you are working. And don't forget room to work on the optical unit and for the tools you are going to use. I covered a large table with a double layer of bubble wrap. In my opinion it's better to put the glass face down to limit powder sticking on the internal surface.
Thanks good advice! I was wondering exactly about the working space issue!
I am doing this repair now. After successfully lifting off the glass panel (yay!), dust blew out of the lower open edge. So I sprayed a can of air around edges. But a poof of the “air” condensated on the LCD. Does anyone know if I can clean the LCD same as how the glass is cleaned (damp cloth with equal parts white distilled vinegar/distilled water) and if not then how?
Hi Amy,
To clean the LCD panel, I would suggest using a clean microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol. Distilled water can be used, but avoid regular water, which contains minerals. Make sure the microfiber cloth is absolutely clean and has no hard particles sticking on the surface, which will scratch your LCD when you wipe it.
Wet the surface with some alcohol and gently wipe with the microfiber cloth. Wipe in one direction.
I find that the LCD is not as fragile as we all think. they are very much like any LCD on a tv or monitor. There is no extra glass on the front of a monitor. Not the 23 HP Pro Displays I have anyway. I know this because I punctured one moving my video wall. so I took it apart to know how its put together. I will say, there are several 'lens’ like sheets and a reflective (silver} sheets that are the same size as the panel. and a 1/8”piece of acrylic, all behind the LCD panel. Take care with them and clean as you would your monitor.
My suggestion is to stand the iMac up after the panel is secured back into the body of the iMac and clean while its vertical. took me 3 attempts before I realized that while laying flat the surface is large and collects dust with mind blowing speed.
If the LCD glass is badly cracked and broken you need to be extra careful removing as the sharp shard of broken glass can scratch/harm the underlying screen as they may “fall in or onto” the screen below.
I found that strategically putting sheets of 8x11 paper(s) under the sharpest, largest broken sections help protect the underlying screen. A vacuum was also helpful removing some of the small glass shards.
Be advised: I did a perfect replacement of the hard drive, temperature sensor to the SSD, LCD screwed in, glass cleaned. I went to put back the final glass, I set the bottom edge in place and as I slowly moved to have the magnets take hold, they pulled the screen out of my gingerly held fingers, and smacked into place……cracking the glass! Ugh! So, on this last step, hold tight as you put the glass back in slowly. It will cost you about 40-50 bucks for a new glass (mine is on it’s way).
Yikes... that sucks. thanks for sharing this information. I took everyone's advice and removed and placed this back very very carefully.
Don't trust the suction cups after you remove the screen cover. Used both hands to hold this piece carefully!
As far as the last point of step 2 goes, I would add to the parts list a can of compressed air to get rid of all the dust on the screen frame and the interior body once the lcd is off). When the magnets clip back in dust will shower down onto the lcd and glass if you do not clean the frame well. It will not matter how much you clean the LCD and inside of the glass panel.
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Quita los ocho tornillos T10 Torx que sujetan la pantalla LCD a la carcasa exterior.
All screws were exactly the same for me.
There were only eight screws holding the lcd in place on the sides 4X4
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Cuidadosamente coloca el iMac boca abajo sobre una superficie plana.
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Usa una herramienta delgada con gancho para levantar un lado del borde superior de la pantalla por su marco exterior de acero.
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Levanta y sostén la pantalla lo suficientemente alto como para acceder a los cables.
I followed the procedure in the Apple Technician Guide and it was a lot easier. Stand the iMac upright on the stand (as per normal operation) and then carefully tilt the top of the unit towards you while holding the top of the LCD. The LCD just falls forward into you hands. It is also then easier to disconnect the cables.
This procedure can be VERY dangerous. Why? Because there is the possibility of a gravity disaster if you lose control of the screen and it falls before you disconnect the interface cables. I know. It happened to me. After studying the Apple directions I came to the conclusion that I would need both hands on releasing a couple go the cables and decided to tape off the screen in the open position - which I did very carefully and securely. What I did not account for was the tape not adhering. Needless to say when it came loose the screen fell and ruined the connector sockets (and my computer). This could also happen just trying to hold the screen with one hand while spudging the connectors apart with the other as well. SO. LAY THE iMAC DOWN! DO **N O T** GIVE GRAVITY THE CHANCE TO RUIN YOUR DAY like it did mine!
It’s the fourth time I follow this guide, power supply, gpu and dual hd operations carried successfully and I feel and works munch more relaxed with the iMac laying horizontal on his back. I’m lifting the screen with two hooks at the same time, no torsion on the frame makes munch easier to lift it.
Then I put in the corners two pieces (two short pencils do the job) of about 3 1/2”, 9 cm, to maintain lifted the screen while disconnecting the ribbons.
Now the GPU I’ve changed in 2017 has lasted less than three years and here I am to change it again.
After disconnecting the first ribbon you can lift the screen more than 5”, enough to access the other ribbons easily.
As others have posted here, Do NOT let gravity assist you. Put the iMac on it’s back when doing the remaining steps. Also, use some type of hook to assist you in terms of lifting out the display assembly. Expect some resistance, since it does weigh a few pounds. Also, as you’ll see in the next step, you can help yourself by using something to brace it at each corner to keep it lifted. Some have suggested chop sticks, bic pens, etc. Use something approx. 4-5” in length. That will give enough clearance, and not put strain on the cables.
To spare a paperclip, I had better to use a good needlenose plier, catch the iron frame just near the corner, and hook up.
Used plastic spudgers as levers, one pointed to start in the corner, then two flat, working across gently. When I got to the middle and pried a bit, the top lifted all the way across, allowing access to the cable in the next step. I decided against doing this with the unit standing vertically.
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Desconecta el cable de sincronización vertical en la esquina superior izquierda de la pantalla. Usa la punta de un spudger para empujar las pestañas laterales del conector y sácalo suavemente de su zócalo.
After disconnecting the VSync cable, I was able to keep the screen wedged apart by 8" which gave me enough working room to extract and replaced the hard drive without having to remove Step 6 - 8. This resulted in a faster change out of the hard drive.
Amen brother! These are great guides, but could be improved with tips to simplify some processes. I just did the same as you, and it was quick and easy, with less chance to damage cable connections.
thank you for the tip. faster swap-out and less risky. cheers
Eric -
Totally agree. I did exactly the same. Less chance for mistakes having to do and then undo steps 6-8 and faster and easier. The whole process was shockingly simple. Sad I waited so long.
JLTX -
After disconnecting the first cable, I was getting ready to disconnect the second cable when I realized that the amount of opening necessary to get to the second cable, is also sufficient to get to the hard drive, so why go the extra steps. I used a wedge I had close by to very carefully keep the screen up, to enable removing the hard drive with both hands. If you are replacing the hard drive, skip to Step 11.
Bret -
I did this and supported the LCD with two chopsticks. Jumped right to step 11. Power supply replaced; no fuss. Great suggestion. Thanks.
I did this and I agree. I don’t know about the alternative (doing steps 6-8) because this is my first time doing this but it was definitely quick and “safer” than disconnecting a bunch of cables (the Vsync cable alone was scary bc it feels so fragile). Only downside is you have to replace the HDD while holding a heavy panel with one hand. That being said, there was more than enough room to get around.
This quicker method also came in handy when I had to open it up again right after closing it because I forgot to install a piece 😂🤦🏻♂️
adam -
Once I put the tip of a very small flat-head screwdriver on the other side of the spudger tip, the connector popped out.
This is the answer :-) After 10 mins of faffing about on my own I read the manual (this) and this tip took less than 1 second to get the connector out. Thank you so much, me fellow workers were getting annoyed at my swearing.
simonf -
I've managed to break off the fitting in step 6 trying to remove the screen, would anyone know the part to buy or how to fix this?
It is very hard to detach the connector with the spudger. I tried forcing the connector out with the spudger by pushing on one side and then the other repeatedly. After several times it finally came out. A tool would be useful for this; there must be special plyers for doing this. Fingernails on either side seems most obvious, but maybe there is a downside to this ?
Rocking it back and forth with some “outward” pressure on both sides was the key. This was the only connector in this upgrade that gave me a problem.
with some confidence and mechanical inclinations this is the only cable you need to disconnect to replace the hard drive. pointer finger on one side thumb the other, pull up.
Use either a spudger or a small flat head screwdriver to loosen the sides of the connector. Then use small needle nose pliers to disconnect the cable. It’s easier than trying to wedge your hand in there.
I broke the vsync cable removing it. Any tips on how to replace it? The wire is hair thin and I have trouble stripping even much bigger ones. I don't suppose iFixit sells a replacement?
First Thanks. Your parts and guides have (hopefully (still doing a restore)) shown me how to upgrade my HDD to SSD! I would warn extra caution on the 2 small sets of connectors with the bendy pins. Both the cases on mine were broken. Presumably when it went into Apple for a new Graphics card. I found it very difficult to line the pins up and had to straighten them several times before I could reconnect them. Probably due to the cases being broken and not helping with alignment.
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Desconecta el cable del controlador de retroiluminación LED con la mano presionando la pestaña hacia abajo y deslizándola hacia la parte inferior de la pantalla.
Do step 7 first. The cable is much shorter and more fragile, you'll have more space to remove the other cables if that one is removed first. On my mac, the cable in step 7 was glued down and had to be freed up before I could pull the connecter out of its socket.
Just skip step 6,7,8 and 9 with this powerful tools: two bic pen holding the frame.
Look at pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5jwam38drgcov...
I also used two pens to hold the display panel up and I had to detach only the vertical sync cable from the display on step 5. Much easier!
Hello Fabio, can you please re-up the picture? It doesnt seem to be online anymore :(
Thanx a bunch!
Good idea! I used two chopsticks as they are longer. Placed them near the corner and use one of the T10 screw's hole in the side of LCD panel to prop it up. Fit perfectly and very sturdy. This gave me plenty of space to work with the replacement.
dtsai2 -
I don’t get how smite six can be skipped—we’re these steps renumbered at some point? How could you even lift the display if you didn’t remove the screws in step 6?
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Tira de la pestaña negra hacia arriba para desconectar el pestillo del conector ZIF del cable de datos de la pantalla.
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Continúa tirando de la pestaña negra hacia la parte superior del dispositivo para desconectar el cable de datos de la pantalla.
me too. All went well expect replace this flat cable which is tricky almost when my view is low and I've got big finger. I broke the cable end connector to motherboard but I don't know if I damaged the connector on motherboard. I'm waiting from Apple service for diagnostic.
I would suggest on the guide to add a step to explain how sensitive is to replace this cable. iMac should lay on the back and it should have some stuff to maintain the motherboard elevated in order to insert the display port flat cable to the motherboard on a less stressful way.
This image is 100% inaccurate. My mac has a different style connector that needed to be pinched on each side to release the cable.
Its not 100% incorrect for him as this was his connector. It was only incorrect for you.
asthomas -
Its accurate for my Mid 2011 3.4ghz iMac so it could be different for different iMac model years.
Chris -
How do you get the ZIF connector back in? Some screenshot or instruction would be very helpful. I cannot get mine back in.
This is really difficult, but essentially it slides in - with no discernible click. A *slight* tug on the lever lets you know its connected. Horrible thing.
Use the ‘bic pen’ trick and you don’t have to remove this for most things but I had to go ‘back in’ to remove the super drive. I then used the tip next down and removed this connector at the screen also and put this end back in first with no screen in the way.
I found the best way for me to reinstall the ZIF cable in was to lay LCD panel on its face and gently peel the black tape on upper part of lcd to expose and remove the connector there. At this point the ribbon cable is free and you can insert the hard to align connector to the board. Set LCD into imac and connect the small push connector next to the ribbon cable on board. It was easier to see and then reconnect the cable to the upper portion of LCD and tape it back over. Reinstall other connectors etc. This way worked best on my 27" iMac as it was much easier.
The is a great tip
I had to replace the cable due to damage from trying to reinsert it at the logic board and I found it best to re-attach it exactly the way that thewiseone71 describes it above. If you disconnect the part at the top with the tape around it, this goes much easier and there is less of a chance of damaging the port on the logic board where it attaches at the other end. I think some photos of this port, and the way this cable goes back in would be a great addition to this tutorial. Replacing this cable would also make a great tutorial.
So like everyone else, I managed to screw this up. Do you remember where you picked up the replacement, or what I should look for specifically when looking for a new one? I looked on amazon, but the label on the one I found doesn’t match what is on mine.
Thanks!
What would be really helpful to this guide, and this image is the closest I can find in the sequence, is a quick summary of exactly where the diagnostic LEDs are on this model (and what they mean, although the latter is easily googleable). I only mention this as I believe my PSU is goosed as no LEDs are illuminated anywhere, however I can only find references to 2009 and 2010 of the similar MYs which evidently have diagnostic LEDs in a different place, hidden under tape, and I suspect numbered differently. So I can't be 100% certain!
I can see why some people are breaking the connector in step 7. You do initially pull the tab up, perpendicular to the logic board, which unlatches the connector, but then it is finally disconnected by then pulling the tab toward the top of the computer, parallel to the face of the logic board. I found it easier, after disconnecting the sync cable in step 5, to then prop up the bottom of the LCD, in order to better reach the ZIF connector, the LED backlight driver cable and the display power cable.
I messed this bit up too. It says “pull up”. As the iMac laid flat on the table, I pulled towards the ceiling, bending the pins. It should say “pull towards the top of the machine” or something.
I managed to straighten them out with a tweezer. Looked like a couple of pins were missing at the end, but it looks ok.
Now I have to figure out what I have done to the temperature controller, the fans blow on full speed all the time here. :)
Like others that have commented, this cable is a major PITA. I used both a headlamp to illuminate the area, and the iPhone’s Magnifier app to zoom in. The connector on the motherboard is flat, low profile and characterized by a thin narrow slot. The key to removing the cable is to slide the cable out, (after flipping that bar forward). Re-attaching the cable is the same - carefully sliding the cable into that slot, while keeping that bar pulled backward, until the cable was in place.
For me, this was the most difficult part of the hard drive replacement. I spent more time on this than anything else.
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Usa la punta de un spudger para desconectar el cable de alimentación de la pantalla junto al cable de datos de la pantalla.
need more description than “disconnect” here. It took my awhile to figure out that it’s was a “back toward” connector.
Thanks John, would you give a short suggestion on how to help other users to remove such a “back toward” connector to make it clearer?
Angel -
I broke 1 of the pins on the logic board side when reconnect. Now my iMac have no display. Not sure how to fix it.
Need better description here with close-up photos to avoid accident like mine.
Cheat on this one. Loosen the tape on the back of the display. That gives you more slack on the cable. The connector is pretty standard.
I could not reconnect this cable. How to put back?
Jagat, it’s easier if you lift the other side of the display.
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Tira con cuidado de la pantalla hacia el borde superior de su iMac y sácala de la carcasa del iMac.
When I opened up my iMac, I was surprised at how dusty it was inside. You might want to have a vacuum cleaner handy to vacuum up the dust inside the case. Be careful not to vacuum up the screws, though!
do not use a vacuum cleaner, it has ESD!!!!!
find a vacuum that is for computer use that has no ESD
FYI...I did this fix, upgraded my mid 2011 27" to a Samsung 850 EVO SSD Hard Drive. Everything went great except for two parts...
1. When I started up with my install media I got a three beep error and I could not install. I ended up using the CRTL-R at startup and did a network install that downloads an image of the original OS that comes with the system and allows you to install with the correct file.
2. Hard drive fan was spinning at full speed the whole time. This was annoying to say the least. Another person on this thread commented on this and said that you had to buy a $30 piece of software to fix it, I actually found another one that is free and works quite well (http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/).
Just completed the upgrade and put a 1TB SSD in. I have used this software and seems to do a good job. http://www.crystalidea.com/macs-fan-cont...
adrianh -
There seems to be a missing step here. All the while one is removing the cables from their sockets it is supposed that the screen which is quite heavy is suspended in mid air… no, you are holding it up with one hand while doing everything single handed while in all honesty it would be nice to have both hands if for nothing else to steady your movements. So. Lets add a step. Lets figure out a solution and use some kind of prop until the screen is removable.
ESD = Electrostatic Discharge
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Coloca la pantalla boca abajo sobre una superficie plana y suave.
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Si hay un cable o cable debajo de la cinta adhesiva, siempre retira la cinta primero. No tires del cable directamente.
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Si el cable está pegado al chasis, usa un iOpener calentado o un secador de pelo para suavizar primero el adhesivo. Luego puedes deslizar una púa de apertura debajo del cable para aflojarlo. Nunca tires de los conectores delicados.
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Desliza una púa de apertura debajo de las piezas del cojín de espuma para separarlas de la pantalla y retíralas suavemente. Es posible que necesites cinta adhesiva de doble cara para volver a colocarlos en la nueva pantalla.
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Desconecta el cable de alimentación de CC utilizando el dedo índice para presionar el mecanismo de bloqueo de la parte posterior del conector mientras tiras de él para sacarlo de su zócalo en la fuente de alimentación.
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Cuando el mecanismo de bloqueo haya salido del zócalo, retira el conector de alimentación de CC de la fuente de alimentación.
I found it tricky to get a grip on this connector with the PSU still in place so I left this step until I had removed the torx screws holding the PSU in place. By lifting the PSU and rotating it toward the top of the iMac I was able to disconnect the DC cable easily.
I did the same. I couldn’t press the release lever with it in.
Once you depress the lock you can pull the cable lightly away from the power supply. I had the same trouble getting my big fingers under the connector in order to reach the lock.
I did the same. Good suggestion. Thanks.
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Saca la fuente de alimentación de la caja exterior mientras la desvías con cuidado de los cables que puedan quedar atrapados.
For anyone who is swapping out a potentially broken power supply:
If the main issue was the iMac not receiving power, once you install a new power supply it should have your iMac booting up within minutes of installation. If it doesn't boot up in a short amount of time you may have to try a logic board swap.
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Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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26 comentarios
It was a bit nerve wracking when it came to the ZIF connector because it is so small and delicate and my eyesight is not great. However I did disconnect and reconnect without damaging. The paperclip tool is a very good recommendation and luckily I had a couple of oversized ones which I have not added to my tool kit. I would suggest making two to allow you to pull on both sides at the same time. So I put everything back together again and now we have a beautifully silent (working!!) iMac. We had got so used to the constant buzzing noise so it is now fantastic to have silence. I am looking forward to repairing more!! One idea that I have is to buy a broken mac air on ebay and repair that for my son.
Restez très précis, n'y allez pas en force cela ne sert à rien. La seule chose qui n'est pas indiquée mais qui va vous sauver la vie, munissez-vous d'une bombe d'air sec pour pouvoir dépoussiérer les surfaces des écrans (protection écran) une fois mises à jour. Car même dans une pièce très propre, une fine poussière se dépose et une fois fermé, c'est terminé ! @++
Great guide, I made my repairs and it was easier than it seemed--The paper clip and the pen caps were innovative work arounds to having a third hand. Unfortunately, this did not fix my iMac from intermittently turning off. The computer worked for about 25 minutes before it shutdown again. Now I cannot turn it back on, next weekend I will go back into the machine to try again. Regardless, the guide and the tools gave me the confidence to try this repair. Thanks!
how do i exactly know its my power supply that needs replacement ??? when i plug in the computer and press the power button nothing happens at all ???
I did this replacement and it went great.
iMac turned on, but all the fans are blowing out of control.
I use Macs fan control now, but I would rather understand what I did wrong and how can I fix it.
Maybe I pulled the wrong wire somewhere? Although I swear I did it exactly as instructed.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Have you solved this problem?
I should have come here first. I watched another video that said to just lift on the sync cable. I broke the tabs (or at least one of them). I'm comfortable doing the rest of the install, but wondering if I rig that connection when I put back together. Ideas?
COMPLETED!
I took a ton of time taking the screen off since this was the first time I've opened up my iMac - the connections are fragile, but once you know where they are and how they connect, it's quite simple. I found that my inverter board and power supply had been corroded by moisture - a couple years right next to an AC unit were suspect, I guess. My screen is at full brightness and I've had no issue so far! Thanks, ifixit!
Thank you iFixit!! I managed to replace the power supply and my iMac is back to normal! Excellent guide.
Guía excelente. Sustituí la fuente de alimentación hace tres meses y sigue funcionando. ¡Muchas gracias!
The lower left screw (circled orange in Step 12) had a thin black rubber washer underneath it. However, it seemed to expand in diameter such that the screw won't keep it down upon reassembly. Anyone else have this rubber washer and have this problem?
Watched the video guide and read this guide thoroughly, including all the comments, before starting the repair. It took me an hour, going slowly but surely. In the end the iMac powered up again and worked beautifully. For this repair, as some suggested here, I skipped steps 6 through 9 and only disconnected the vertical sync cable. I used two chopsticks (they are longer then pen) to prop up the LCD, using the holes of those T10 screws. Worked great, gave me two free hands and plenty of space to remove the power supply board (T10 screws, disconnect the two connectors), and put the new one in. Reconnect the V-sync cable, then remove the two chopsticks propping up the LCD and carefully lower the LCD back to its place. That's it. I figured the fewer connector touched, the better and it was a lot less stress. The magnet for the glass panel is very powerful. A couple of T10 when I tried to remove it got sucked over, but a small tweezer helped. BTW, be sure to clean any dust of the LCD. Thank you guys for the guide!
Excellent job!! Is it possible to fix or replace the iMAC power button?
I don´t see anything related with it.
Thanks,
Sérgio - Portugal
My iMac 2429 has been constantly shutting down in a loop. I have seen that a lot of other people have had this problem. Hopefully switching the power supply would fix this issue.
Power supply replacement arrived within one day, and it took me less than an hour to replace it. The only difficult parts were the connectors. You either need a lot of strength or (in my case) use tools. Now my IMac 27 is noiseless again. Thanks for the fast delivery, and for the guides.
Eljay Bos
How can I test the power supply? My iMac not starting the operating system and restarts itself again and again. Is it the solution? I tried all software suggestions and got nothing. I think it's a hardware problem because the installation USB not starting too.
Fixing a 2011 iMac today is getting closer to restoration than repair.
Our 2011 had been running along without any issue for years, and then bricked when we unplugged it and moved it to a different room.
Is a bad power supply the likely issue for a machine that is total unresponsive?
Thanks!
After the power supply replacement I have problems with panic start, imac restarts suddenly, could it be due to a defective power supply?
If you buy the ifixit suction cups (as I did), here's a tip. After removing the white paper cover stuck to each one, AND BEFORE putting them on your glass as shown, CLEAN them with a vinegar/water solution or glass/window cleaner. Because if you don't, they will leave ugly circles on your glass that will take quite a bit of effort to remove with said vinegar/water solution or glass cleaner. Other comments helped me with my power supply replacement, so I thought I would leave this one for the future. Thanks for a great guide.
Problem: After having been disconnected from power, even briefly, the iMac could not be turned on for several hours. Peeking through the bottom vent holes I could see that not even one indicator LED was lit during that time.
Secondly there was a rattling noise that I attributed to a broken fan.
Solution: Replaced the power supply. Turns out, that was also the source of the noise.
You can easily lift the glass panel off the magnets with only your fingernails (or something thin like a credit card or a guitar pick). No need to buy suction cups you will only use once.
Nick Caron - Contestar
Yes, you don't need the specific suction cups to remove the display cover - it's held on by magnets, and if you start at the center by the iSight you can work out to the edges and remove it. I had an iPhone screen suction cup around and it helped with balancing the screen when you pull it out fully, but by no ways is it required.
jtowner - Contestar
Great guide and pretty straight forward the only thing that took me ages and I didn't manage to undo were the power btn cable (step 28) and the thermal sensor (step 25) Seemed like they were glued on! Very difficult to remove and obviously conscious so I didn't break anything!
Eddie - Contestar
Thanks!!! Worked excellently.
I used a plunger (clean first ;-) to get the screen off, and http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ for fan control.
Then, i did not take out the whole display and left it in the hinges on the bottom side and held it up with two small cardboard boxes. Easy enough to disconnect the hdd then.
I replaced with an ssd, put that into a ssd enclosure. Had to drill an extra hole in it to fasten the pins that hold it in place.
Used Carbon Copy Cloner to make an image from the old hdd, with the sad connected via usb. Checked it of it booted via System Preferences > Startup Disk. It worked so the took the imac apart and replaced the disk. Booted, everything was working as always, only faster!
Frank303 - Contestar
I'm replacing my optical drive too. what exactly needs to be plugged into the SSD? I don't have the kit - as I am not sure one is required if I buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...
Can you please advise? Can I do it with this piece, or do I need to get the entire bracket kit?
Allen Borza -
My display data cable forks, with a smaller section going up near the camera board. Where it forks, it is attached to the aluminum plate that attaches around the cpu board. I haven't seen any images that look similar, and I'm stumped at how to remove this second section of the cable. 2010 i7 build to order
Awolf - Contestar
Agree with the other comments here. Despite buying suction cups, not sure they were necessary as the screen removed very easily. A sat nav suction cup would do the job fine.
Stuart Bloomfield - Contestar
I can confirm that it is possible to remove the front glass using fingernails rather than suction cups. It isn’t easy, but if you try you should be able to pry off the glass.
I did this twice: once at the beginning of the procedure and once again at the end, when I realized that a big pice of lint was trapped under the glass.
gordonhamachi - Contestar
Don’t use suction cups. totally unnecessary. screen pops off with fingernails.
Kieran Hobbs - Contestar
The reason for caution about suction cups tends to be making sure you don’t apply uneven pressure on the edges of the glass and crack it in the process of removal. I do agree however that some pretty small suction cups would do fine. These suction cups can be had at your local princess auto (Harbor freight) for a few bucks and are useful elsewhere as well. if you use your fingernails or other items just try and do it evenly :)
Abirinder Brar - Contestar
good duct tape or gaffer tape wrapped around your hands makes an excellent glass removal 'tool'. Even clear packing tape works a charm.
Stu Blair - Contestar
A great first step that minimizes that first gust of dust migration when the glass is lifted is to clean the glass, sides *and the back* before lifting the glass, and then lift SLOWLY. Most of that dust is already trapped inside and pulled up as the screen lifts, but with care you can keep it there (or gently vacuum out with a micro vac…).
John - Contestar
before starting any of this…there is a device that you can use that comes with the IFixit kit to format and either clone or restore your hard drive to the new drive…it will save you a lot of headaches..it is a SSD enclosure that you can plug into your existing computer …
Tomr - Contestar
Thanks for the instructions. Before doing this the first time, suggest to everyone, read through at least twice. This is the easiest step, as you’ll soon see. As for removing the glass, USE suction cups, either the ones the sell here, or others. DON’T skimp. Also wear gloves when handling the glass. Don’t take chances.
ECJohansen - Contestar
Duct tape works too!
Dani - Contestar