iMac Intel 27" EMC 2429 LED Driver Board Replacement

You can easily lift the glass panel off the magnets with only your fingernails (or something thin like a credit card or a guitar pick). No need to buy suction cups you will only use once.

Yes, you don't need the specific suction cups to remove the display cover - it's held on by magnets, and if you start at the center by the iSight you can work out to the edges and remove it. I had an iPhone screen suction cup around and it helped with balancing the screen when you pull it out fully, but by no ways is it required.

Great guide and pretty straight forward the only thing that took me ages and I didn't manage to undo were the power btn cable (step 28) and the thermal sensor (step 25) Seemed like they were glued on! Very difficult to remove and obviously conscious so I didn't break anything!

My display data cable forks, with a smaller section going up near the camera board. Where it forks, it is attached to the aluminum plate that attaches around the cpu board. I haven't seen any images that look similar, and I'm stumped at how to remove this second section of the cable. 2010 i7 build to order

Agree with the other comments here. Despite buying suction cups, not sure they were necessary as the screen removed very easily. A sat nav suction cup would do the job fine.

I can confirm that it is possible to remove the front glass using fingernails rather than suction cups. It isn’t easy, but if you try you should be able to pry off the glass.

I did this twice: once at the beginning of the procedure and once again at the end, when I realized that a big pice of lint was trapped under the glass.

Reassembly: After powering on and running for a few minutes, found a large whitish patch on the screen. Persists after powerdown.

Turned out to be condensation, though it didn't look like it - more like fine white powder rubbed in. Humidity is very high this time of the year. Fix: start airconditioner in a room, leave it running a while, take iMac in, prise open the glass again. Condensation vanishes instantly. Keep it out for a ~15 minutes running infinite loops to get iMac nicely heated up and fans running. Snap glass back.

I strongly recomment to detach the suction cups while working at the rest of the steps. In my case after half an our i heart a crack noise behind me on the table... The vacuum of one of the suction cups braked the glass! maybe there should be a warning in the Repair guide

I didn't crack the screen, but it popped out of the shims and then popped back in, as if the glass edge is magnetic or has steel in it to connect to magnets. Be careful with this step — it is pretty nerve-wracking, but doable!

The screws on the top (left-top, and right-top) are slightly longer than the other six screws.

I followed the procedure in the Apple Technician Guide and it was a lot easier. Stand the iMac upright on the stand (as per normal operation) and then carefully tilt the top of the unit towards you while holding the top of the LCD. The LCD just falls forward into you hands. It is also then easier to disconnect the cables.

This procedure can be VERY dangerous. Why? Because there is the possibility of a gravity disaster if you lose control of the screen and it falls before you disconnect the interface cables. I know. It happened to me. After studying the Apple directions I came to the conclusion that I would need both hands on releasing a couple go the cables and decided to tape off the screen in the open position - which I did very carefully and securely. What I did not account for was the tape not adhering. Needless to say when it came loose the screen fell and ruined the connector sockets (and my computer). This could also happen just trying to hold the screen with one hand while spudging the connectors apart with the other as well. SO. LAY THE iMAC DOWN! DO **N O T** GIVE GRAVITY THE CHANCE TO RUIN YOUR DAY like it did mine!

Once I put the tip of a very small flat-head screwdriver on the other side of the spudger tip, the connector popped out.

I've managed to break off the fitting in step 6 trying to remove the screen, would anyone know the part to buy or how to fix this?

It is very hard to detach the connector with the spudger. I tried forcing the connector out with the spudger by pushing on one side and then the other repeatedly. After several times it finally came out. A tool would be useful for this; there must be special plyers for doing this. Fingernails on either side seems most obvious, but maybe there is a downside to this ?

Rocking it back and forth with some “outward” pressure on both sides was the key. This was the only connector in this upgrade that gave me a problem.

with some confidence and mechanical inclinations this is the only cable you need to disconnect to replace the hard drive. pointer finger on one side thumb the other, pull up.

Do step 7 first. The cable is much shorter and more fragile, you'll have more space to remove the other cables if that one is removed first. On my mac, the cable in step 7 was glued down and had to be freed up before I could pull the connecter out of its socket.

I don’t get how smite six can be skipped—we’re these steps renumbered at some point? How could you even lift the display if you didn’t remove the screws in step 6?

i mess up my date zif connector is it fixable?

me too. All went well expect replace this flat cable which is tricky almost when my view is low and I've got big finger. I broke the cable end connector to motherboard but I don't know if I damaged the connector on motherboard. I'm waiting from Apple service for diagnostic.

I would suggest on the guide to add a step to explain how sensitive is to replace this cable. iMac should lay on the back and it should have some stuff to maintain the motherboard elevated in order to insert the display port flat cable to the motherboard on a less stressful way.

The ZIF display cable is tricky to get back in. I would suggest that this cable be the first one to be put back during reassembly. You need maximum wiggle room and visibility for this. Push in the display power cable *after* this one.

I had to replace the cable due to damage from trying to reinsert it at the logic board and I found it best to re-attach it exactly the way that thewiseone71 describes it above. If you disconnect the part at the top with the tape around it, this goes much easier and there is less of a chance of damaging the port on the logic board where it attaches at the other end. I think some photos of this port, and the way this cable goes back in would be a great addition to this tutorial. Replacing this cable would also make a great tutorial.

What would be really helpful to this guide, and this image is the closest I can find in the sequence, is a quick summary of exactly where the diagnostic LEDs are on this model (and what they mean, although the latter is easily googleable). I only mention this as I believe my PSU is goosed as no LEDs are illuminated anywhere, however I can only find references to 2009 and 2010 of the similar MYs which evidently have diagnostic LEDs in a different place, hidden under tape, and I suspect numbered differently. So I can't be 100% certain!

There seems to be a missing step here. All the while one is removing the cables from their sockets it is supposed that the screen which is quite heavy is suspended in mid air… no, you are holding it up with one hand while doing everything single handed while in all honesty it would be nice to have both hands if for nothing else to steady your movements. So. Lets add a step. Lets figure out a solution and use some kind of prop until the screen is removable.

ESD = Electrostatic Discharge