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Introducción
La extracción de la pantalla en un iMac de finales de 2012 requiere cortar el adhesivo alrededor del perímetro de la pantalla. Después de cortar el adhesivo, no se puede utilizar para volver a sellar la pantalla en su lugar, por lo que deberás aplicar un nuevo juego de tiras adhesivas.
Qué necesitas
Resumen del Video
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Si estás reutilizando tu pantalla existente, también tienes que remover el adhesivo viejo de la parte trasera de la pantalla.
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Despega las tiras viejas de adhesivo utilizando pinzas o tus dedos. Comienza en la parte inferior y despegar para arriba hacia la parte superior del dispositivo.
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Luego de que se haya removido el adhesivo viejo, con cuidado limpia el área debajo del adhesivo con alcohol isopropílico de 90% (o más). Limpia en una dirección y no de atrás hacia adelante.
I've done this on several iMacs now, but today I noticed another layer of thin black plastic stuck to the back of the display.
It was really tough to remove and left a lot of clear, sticky goop under it.
It's really thin, but it was strong enough to hold the screen in place by itself - I reconnected the display cables and tested before pulling the backing off the new adhesive strips - and it stuck together!
I had to pry it apart again and it actually ripped my new glue strips in 2 or 3 places. I was able to still use them, but it did not go as smoothly as other iMacs I've upgraded. Everything was fine in the end, but I left some blue painters tape on the top of the screen overnight so the glue strips will set up without the screen falling off - just to be on the safe side.
Does anyone know if this last layer of black plastic on the screen should be removed or left in place when replacing the glue strips?
That Black layer of plastic should not be removed. I found that on some segments, upon peeling back old adhesive remnants, the thin black plastic layer would also begin to peel off. STOP and cut off what has been removed, separate the black plastic strip from the adhesive remnant you are peeling off. The continue removing remnants.
Are you sure that you’re not supposed to pull the black backing all the way off? I removed all the black strips before getting to this step.
IMHO: The rubbing alcohol is clutch for this step. There’s plenty of residue after pulling up the old adhesive and the 99% Isopropyl Alcohol really took the tacky remnants off.
To add on to the rubbing alcohol thing for removing residue, the alcohol doesn’t actually dissolve the adhesive residue, but softens it and makes it easier to get up. But you still have to actually remove it. I found that once you peel up the big pieces of adhesive, you’re still gonna have a some sticky residue. Here’s what worked for me:
1) You want to go section by section, using a clean piece of non-linty cloth wet with alcohol to get the glue residue nice and wet. As it says in the instructions, don’t wipe back and forth, but wipe the residue along in one direction instead of just spreading it around.
2) The plastic spudger that came with your repair kit (or the end of a credit card or something plastic that won’t cause damage) can be used as a little trowel to push the adhesive along and gather it up into a little booger-like hunk of goo.
3) At that point, you can wipe it off with a clean, dry piece of cloth. Why dry? Because it won’t really stick to the alcohol-soaked one but will stick to a dry cloth.
It still took me a solid half-hour easily to go along all the edges and get them as clean as possible. I had to go over some sections a few times. This might have been overkill, but I really really didn’t want to go through all this and then find that the new adhesive strips weren’t holding because there was old gunk I hadn’t removed.
The careful removal of the adhesive is very, very important. Take that from a guy who didn’t carefully remove the adhesive and was awakened in the middle of the night by the screen coming off of the iMac and crashing to the floor. That was a bad night.
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Con el spudger todavía asomando por el orificio de la tira adhesiva, empuja la punta del spudger en el orificio correspondiente en el marco de la iMac.
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Usando el orificio y el spudger para anclar la posición de la tira adhesiva, alinea la tira contra el borde derecho, suavemente jala hacia abajo contra el spudger para asegurar que la tira esté tensa, y pégala sobre el marco.
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Ábrete paso por el perímetro del iMac, añadiendo tres tiras adhesivas más de la misma manera.
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Trabajando en sentido antihorario desde la tira 13, coloque:
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la tira 12 en la parte superior derecha
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la tira 11 en la parte superior izquierda
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la tira 16 en la vertical izquierda.
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En la pantalla iMac Intel 27 "Retina 5K, las pestañas azules de la tira 12 no se alinearán con la antena superior de la misma forma que el modelo regular. Esto es perfectamente aceptable y no afectará el rendimiento de las tiras o la antena.
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Toma la lengüeta roja de film en la tira adhesiva 14 y tira para remover el respaldo de la tira.
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Alinea la tira en el borde inferior del gabinete trasero, directamente a la derecha del tornillo del medio en ese borde.
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Desliza tu dedo a lo largo del borde de la tira adhesiva para asegurarte de que esté derecha y desarrugada, presionando hacia abajo al deslizar la tira para adherirla a la iMac.
Using iFixIt’s adhesive strips, i cannot strip off the white backing. Pulling on the tab pulls the wrong backing off, the black backing. I can:t figure a way to do this correctly!
Same with mine, but carefully using a razor blade to separate the white side from the adhesive, leaving the clear side attached, then remove the white side and place accordingly.
Phill -
The video shows the correct method - attach these strips to the back of the screen rather than the iMac itself.
The Video can be found at macsales.com support site. Here’s the link:
https://eshop.macsales.com/installvideos...
got to 07:48
The instructions at this step need to be re-written. The Bullet point that says “Align the strip on the bottom edge of the rear enclosure” is misleading. Strips 14 and 15 are to be Placed on the Bottom Back Edge of the Display! Also note that the way these strips have been manufactured they are a bit funky. They will be placed with the DARK SIDE up, but the film covering the adhesive on these is tough to get properly separated, fortunately I had not cut my nails recently, so I was able to finally get it off after several minutes.
I did this step according to this written guide, and honestly the result was not good, plus it is much harder to put the display back on when the 14 and 15 strip adhesive is attached onto the computer.
The video (also from ifixit) shows the correct way, putting strip 14 and 15 on the LCD itself. Have done it like this on a previous iMac I had and the results were much more pleasing.
There is a problem with step 10 of this guide for 27” iMac 5K Display 2019! If you follow step 10 as it is, the iMac microphone port is blocked with adhesive. After following this guide I had to buy an extra set of adhesive strips and reopen my iMac to fix the muffled microphone problem! The correct application of the adhesives in step 10 is described in iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017) Adhesive Strips Replacement guide Reemplazo de las tiras adhesivas del iMac Intel 21.5" Retina 4K Display (2017)
Please do update this guide accordingly!
LEARN FROM MY MISTAKE: Yes, the video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hSChIAlX...) IS right on this step, but I did something stupid. I based the rest of my screen re-install based on the video, instead of using the rest of this guide (I know, I know, I should have read the whole thing first… I assumed this was the easy part after replacing my hard drive). All that to say, the video doesn’t include any of the helpful painters tape stuff, so I ended up eyeballing the screen with active adhesive, and it ended up slightly misaligned. When I saw the mistake, it was too late to change anything. It’s a very small error, but a noticeable one if you run your finger along the top of the glass, but I am still kicking myself for messing the final step up after an otherwise successful install.
Das Microphon befindet sich bei diesem Modell unten rechts über dem Apple Logo (3 Löcher): Nicht überkleben!
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Repita el paso previo para la tira adhesiva 15, colocándola a lo largo de la mitad izquierda del borde inferior de la iMac.
You've really got to pay particular attention to exactly where to stick these - especially the short right-angle part as it doesn't go on the back of the glass as you might expect but actually over part of the edge of the LCD. It's also really difficult to remove and reposition the stickers since they will stretch when pulling them off.
Das Microphon befindet sich bei diesem Modell unten rechts über dem Apple Logo (3 Löcher): Nicht überkleben!
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Suavemente coloca la pantalla en su lugar sobre la iMac y alinéala con cuidado.
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En este punto, es una buena idea probar tu reparación para asegurarte de que tu iMac funcione correctamente antes de volver a sellarla. Sigue los siguientes tres pasos para volver a conectar temporalmente los cables de la pantalla y reiniciar tu iMac antes de retirar la película protectora de las tiras adhesivas.
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Si ya has verificado que su iMac está funcionando correctamente y estás listo para sellarlo, ve al Paso 16.
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Inserta suavemente el conector de datos de la pantalla en su zócalo en la placa lógica. Asegúrate de presionarlo directamente en el zócalo e insertarlo completamente.
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Coloca el bloqueo del conector de datos de la pantalla en el zócalo.
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Insert el conector de alimentación de la pantalla en su zócalo en la placa lógica.
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Reconecta los cables de datos y de alimentación de la pantalla por última vez.
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Recuerda sujetar el soporte de retención de metal en el cable de datos de la pantalla.
Bonjour. Avez-vous des photos comment rebrancher le connecteur mâle - femelle côté écran ? De face ? Par le haut, par le bas ? Pas réussi à remettre. Merci
@pixelcabane Ce tutoriel n'est plus à jour. Veuillez consulter à la place https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem... et https://fr.ifixit.com/Tutoriel/Remplacem... pour plus d'infos sur le remplacement de l'écran. Si cela ne vous aide pas, le mieux serait de poser votre question sur notre Forum (https://fr.ifixit.com/R%C3%A9ponses) prévu spécialement à cet effet. Là-bas, tous les membres de la communauté vous aideront à résoudre votre problème.
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Repite los pasos previos para remover las películas protectoras del resto de las tiras adhesivas restantes (etiquetadas 11, 12 y 13)
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Remueve la cinta que sujeta la pantalla al gabinete trasero.
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Para asegurar que se una bien, inclina la iMac con cuidado sobre su parte posterior (con la pantalla mirando hacia arriba) y presiona con cuidado pero firmemente alrededor de los cuatro bordes de la pantalla.
Cuidado en los iMac de 2017 y posteriores! Las dos entradas del micrófono están en la parte de abajo del marco (justo sobre la manzana). Si se dejan tapados por la cinta, los micros no funcionan! Hay que cortar la cinta justo por esos lugares, preferiblemente, solo sobre los pequeños orificios de entrada del sonido.
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Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a ensamblar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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17 comentarios
Hello guys!
Could anyone tell what the width of these strips is? I need to buy some double sided strips to do a hard drive upgrade, but I can't order from iFixit :(
Thank you!
Some 3m Extreme Mounting tape works perfect for hdd upgrades on an imac.
torch130 -
Hey guys... there's one critical step that's missing here. Before doing Step 18, you have to make sure the iSight camera is in the right place. It's 'floating' inside the computer housing and has to be positioned just right for the glass to close/seal properly with the frame. I followed all of these steps but the glass would not seal around the camera, leaving a 1/8" gap there and distortion on the LCD when powered on. I had to re-order the strips and do the process over again. While doing a 'dry run', I realized the camera was the culprit and was able to hold it in position with a paper clip which allowed for the glass to adhere properly on the 2nd try.
I'm surprised to see, that you install the tape strips on the unit lying down.
It's a lot easier to attach them with the unit standing upright.
Also, attach ALL the strips to the rear housing, NOT to the LCD.
Attach the tape strips to the housing, mount the display, use som painters (/masking) tape, when you have aligned the display to the edges of the housing, attach the tape to the bottom of the glass and rear housing, making sure the display won't slip out of alignment.
Then, tilt the display towards you and support it with either a hand or your chest, while you remove the tapes protective layer and tilt the display back.
That way, it's still well aligned and it won't shift.
Same goes when removing the display in the first place.
Don't lay it down on the table - use a wedge, to make sure that the housing doesn't tilt while removing the display, and let the wedge stay there unit finished. The display is a lot easier to handle when upright, and you won't put too much pressure on the edges of the glass.
By the way, a minor detail you guys left out;
The tape strips for the 2012 and 2013, are not the same as 2014 Retina model.
The WiFi antenna's are located differently on the right. It's slightly elevated on the Retina, compared to the 2012 and 2013 models.
I've just added some steps, for closing the iMac backup. Please revise them if needed.
But you guys need to take notice, of users cracking their display glass and getting vertical or horizontal lines, when following your guides, as the guides are VERY far from Apple's iMac Service Guides!
Remember to check, before you close the case, that the small clear circle where the iSight camera looks out is dust-free, especially if, as I was, you are working with a unit that was pretty dusty inside.
You could easily seal the iMac up and then to your frustration see that there are multiple specks of dust slap-bang in front of the camera lens.
Is the IFIXIT adhesive strip secure enough for 27" iMac late 2013 model? I still see some gaps after using IFIXIT strip and am worried that the display may fell off one day.
Hello all, how does the LCD cable get disconnected from the old screen, I am afraid of breaking it!
Do I lift anything or just pull on it?
Thank you
Hi Carlos, this is a guide for reassembly, be sure you check out the full display removal guide to learn how to disconnect those cables!
Make sure to remove old adhesive tape from both the iMac *and* the screen before putting new adhesive tape on.
Success. Had a couple extra screws and a post to remove pn either side of the heat sink, but all good.
What am i getting wrong? After carefully fp;;owing this guide - my adhesive fails after a day -
Adhesive failed 6 months in. The weight of the screen also pulled the connectors off the logic board, ruining the whole machine.
The same problem than mikemccloskey, two days after mounting my display… the adhesive failed and the monitor is broken now.
i think the last step here is to allow time for the adhesive to set for at least 24 hours before using it.
I found that using a couple of paperbacks (one larger than the other) performed the same function - taller one placed to the rear of the stand and the other one in front accommodated the curvature perfectly.
robinsnaddon - Contestar
For point 10 of this guide: iMac 27” 2017 has a relocated microphone position, so if you follow this guide, the mic ist not working after applying the tape.
Make sure to let the microphone out, its located on the lower edge, right of the apple.
Also the tape Stips on the upper edge are 2mm too long, and on the upper right it does not fit to the antenna area, so they have to be shortened and cut in the right shape.
maccy - Contestar