Introducción
¿iMac no lee discos? Utiliza esta guía para reemplazar una unidad óptica que no funcione.
Qué necesitas
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Adhiera una ventosa en los 2 angulos superiores del panel de vidrio.
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Si sus ventosas no se pegan, limpie la superficie del vidrio y la goma de sus ventosas con un solvente liviano.
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Insertar traducción aquí
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Tire despacio el panel de vidrio perpendicular a la cara del LCD con cuidado ya que hay pestañas de metal en la parte inferior del panel de vidrio.
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Remueva el panel de vidrio hacia arriba sacando cuidadosamente las pestañas de acero y coloque sobre una superficie limpia.
What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?
Microfiber Cloth
Try your best not touch it in the first place
Brian -
Wearing Nitrile or regular surgical gloves helps prevent finger prints if you accidentally touch the glass.
I use a Swiffer duster from above at the last moment before I let the magnets grab the glass cover. This has worked so well the last dozen or so times I’ve replaced a glass cover since I never have access to a “clean room” and don’t wear a “bunny suit”.
Also, more dust will shed from your skin if you’ve just taken a shower, so I like to finish these repairs in the morning before a shower.
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Retira los ocho tornillos Torx T10 de 8 mm que sujetan la pantalla a la carcasa exterior.
8 vis, pas 2
On reassembly, it is REALLY HARD to align those screws, because of the field of the strong magnets that hold the glass cover on. I'm sure there's a trick to it, but I'd love to know what it is for future reference.
A short piece of small gauge vinyl tubing that fits tightly over the head of the T-10 driver leaving an 8th of an inch or so in which to insert the screw to engage the head will hold the screw long enough to keep it away from the magnet and get it going in the hole.
I use non magnetic SS curved tip tweezers together with a magnetized #10 torx bit both to remove and reinstall the screws. You can magnetize and demagnetize the bit using the strong magnets on the LCD frame. Don't worry too much during removal, you can recover the screw. But loath the moment you drop the last screw during reassembly. For that reason, reinstall the screws near the magnets and hardest to get to first.
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Levanta ligeramente el borde superior de la pantalla para sacarlo de la carcasa exterior.
When putting the display back I have resistance from the foam elements (on the top end where the iSight is) and have to press down really hard. Is that okay?
Well, stupid me put the 3.5" to 2.5" cage the wrong side up. ;)
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Saca el cable plano de sincronización vertical de su zócalo en la placa del controlador LED cerca de la esquina superior izquierda de tu iMac.
Reassembly of this part was the closest I came to disaster on this project. I tried inserting the connector a few times without success, and when I looked it it the leads, which are fragile, were all mangled. I smoothed them out by hand as best I could and and reinserted, very carefully this time. The trick is that the tip of the connector should be pointed somewhat upwards when reconnecting.
I was pretty sure that when I was done, I would reboot but have no display; but fortunately, everything worked.
So let’s say someone wanted to suck some of the dust off the back of the display before reassembly. Let’s just say that. Someone would likely suck this forsaken cable up into the vacuum tube then, wouldn’t they? They might. And if it were to oscillate in a rushing torrent of air, it might get munged? It might.
Here’s how you overcome such a disaster:
1) cut the end fresh, as close to the end as you can while cutting off any frayed end.
2) abrade the end gently, repeatedly, along the connector wire axis. I used emory paper. Your goal is to expose the copper conductors in the last 1/4” of the fragile evil wire.
3) Tape a small stiff cardstock to the back of the end of the connector. This is essential to press the connector wires into the connector.
4) Gently insert, taking special caution to not peel the copper off of the connector.
5) Tape that connector down deftly, without letting it move a millimeter and securing it for all time.
I just leave it connected. After disconnecting the other cables, there is enough slack to lay the display on its backside if you’re working on a flat surface.
I have replaced the hdd in this model about 8-10 times - I have never had to disconnect any cables other than the sata and temp sensor cables on the hdd. I just prop the lcd up with an egg carton (or something about 3 inches high that is soft and light) and access the hdd that way. The only thing I ever have trouble with are is putting the LCD screws back in around the magnets - but I have pretty much perfected that with a sissor/ tweezer tool.
Could you put up some photos of this procedure - egg carton etc…
Any ideas where to replace this cable?
I followed Suzanne’s comment and also did not disconnect this cable (vertical sync ribbon cable) to avoid damage. I pivoted the screen about 110 degrees after the other cables where detached. On a flat surface, this is easily done and the cable is not tight. Image of my angle if I can drop a link. and cable in this position not in tension.
Where can I buy the replacement for this vertical sync replacement cable?
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Gira la pantalla fuera de la carcasa exterior lo suficiente para desconectar el cable de alimentación de la retroiluminación LED de la placa del controlador LED.
I found it easier to very slightly lift the front edge of the black connector with a small spudger, then gently pulling away towards the bottom of the iMac. Pressing felt a little crude and didn’t work for me.
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Aprieta los dos brazos del conector del cable de datos de la pantalla para desbloquearlo de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
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Saca el conector del cable de datos de la pantalla de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
Aperte as duas exibição do conector do cabo de dados braços juntos para desbloqueá-lo de seu soquete na placa lógica.
Il vaut mieux déconnecter la partie du côté écran en premier (sous l'autocollant noir)
Je suis d’accord. C’est plus facile. Merci mon ami
Translation: It is better to disconnect the screen side first (under the black sticker)
ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS REMOVE THIS CABLE!!! Even if you are "only in there for a minute" tearing the connector off the board is EXTREMELY easy.
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Desconecta el conector del cable del sensor térmico LCD de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
This is important regarding the fan running full speed
Is there a way to test the power supply to see if it's dead?
Achtung! Dieser Stecker kann sehr fest sitzen, hier hilft ein guter Fingernagel um den Stecker abwechselnd rechts und links zu Hebeln
English translation of bluesoundsmusic comment: “Caution! This plug can be very tight, here a good fingernail helps to lever the plug alternately right and left”
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Saca el conector del sensor térmico de la unidad óptica directamente de su zócalo en la placa lógica.
While you’re here, disconnect that SD reader cable and don’t forget to plug it back in on your way back through: it’s not mentioned elsewhere in this guide.
For me this cable was by the hard drive with a grey and a black wire labeled “ODD_TEMP”
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Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para ayudar a desconectar el cable de la unidad óptica.
Be sure this cable doesn’t get stuck under the logic board during reassembly. Mine was under it, I was able to get it out but connecting it to the SuperDrive required a bit of force because my cable is so short.
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Retira la parte de la cinta de aluminio resaltada en rojo y deja el resto adherido al soporte de la unidad óptica de plástico negro.
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Usa la punta de un spudger para retirar el trozo de cinta de espuma que cubre el sensor térmico de la unidad óptica.
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Usa el extremo plano de un spudger para levantar con cuidado el sensor térmico del adhesivo que lo sujeta a la unidad óptica.
Hello, I've broken the temperature sensor of the unit superdirve, where I can buy one?
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Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
Para volver a armar tu dispositivo, sigue estas instrucciones en orden inverso.
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3 comentarios
A word of caution when reassembling. Be sure to replace the LCD thermal sensor connector and the optical drive thermal sensor connector with the contacts facing down. They are both very small and easy to overlook the contact points. If either or both are reinstalled wrong the iMac will not power up. You will get a white screen momentarily and then it will go black. I made that mistake and had to go back in and correctly insert them which solved the power up problem.
I successfully put an SSD (mounted in OWC data doubler) into the optical drive slot.
I got slightly thrown for a moment that at step 10, the iMac was apparently rotated 180 degrees. I didn't really want to change my work position, so I turned my iPad upside down to follow the pictures correctly. Not sure why the perspective changed at that point in the manual.
The other "interesting" task was reattaching the LCD, what with the nearby rare earth magnets trying to steal the screws. Having a heavily magnetized torx screwdriver was a big help; I just took a magnet of my own and stuck it on the handle end of the shaft, and then it held the screw enough to make the job possible.
I was quite relieved when my iMac booted after all this. :)
Per error se'm va introduir una targeta portadora de microSD tipus SD a traves de la ranura del lector de CD-DVD.
Seguint aquesta guia perfectament bé explicada i amb les eines adequades, T10 Torx, tornavís de rellotger tipus estrella o philips i en el meu cas dues ventoses solidaries tipus mànec d'enganxar a la paret de la dutxa per no caure; he aconseguit recuperar la microSD, el lector de CD-DVD i el iMAC continua sencer.
Mil gràcies Andrew Bookholt, ets un crack e indubtablement molt bona persona.
Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.
kctipton - Contestar
Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.
MaximBorzov - Contestar
You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.
Deepsurvival - Contestar
That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.
Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.
max damage -
No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.
Nikolas Lintulaakso - Contestar
Nails worked for me too
Rob Dale - Contestar
Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.
Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.
osienna - Contestar
I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well
jc3Dcx - Contestar
I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!
3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.
Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.
I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.
Good luck!
ivan birks - Contestar
I did it several times with one suction cup at the end of a kitchen brush. Once with the blade of a swiss army knive, also ok. And i’m pretty sure it works with fingernails too
Tai - Contestar
Fingernails are all you need to free the glass from its magnetic hold. If you don’t have them, slip something thin and plastic, like a spudger, at a top corner.
Max Powers - Contestar
Minha dúvida é a seguinte: após o técnico trocar o HD do meu iMac de 21,5 polegadas, a câmera parou de funcionar. Seria por causa da troca do HD? Tem solução?
Claudio - Contestar
Creio que o cabo da camera não foi plugado ou deu mau contato… ou até danificado.
glecyo@gmail.com
glecyo medeiros -
I can’t get my glass to budge. I’m replacing a cracked one and now it’s about to shatter.
jamboxmitchell - Contestar
I know that I'm replying really late but I advise to use clear tape over any cracks so the cracks don't get bigger
Jace Holmes -
Check for chips in the glass BEFORE you do this step. If there is a chip when you pull up with the suction cups you will wind up with a jagged mess. If you do have a chip I would advise covering the screen near the chip with clear tape of some kind before lifting out. Mine shattered right at the chip and the resulting glass dust cloud got all over. My solution was buying a new glass screen.
BCam - Contestar